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From: "James" <James.Curtis@newcastle.ac.uk>
Date:          Sat, 30 Sep 1995 15:04:56 GMT0BST
Subject:       MAX REVS?

With regard to the recent discussions on the subject...

I have a 1960 series II
2.25 petrol (standard no mods.)
Original box
Standard diffs, 
205/16 wheels
Fairey OD.

I have managed speeds in excess of 85mph out of this machine and I 
was wondering if it was possible to calculate the engine RPM from the 
various gear ratios.

I suspect that it may be slightly above the ROVER recommendation for 
the "red-line" but I was curious to know if anyone had the figures to 
work it out.

If you have any ideas and time to waste on maths.... I would be 
curious to know,

Thanks,
                        James.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 30 Sep 95 09:46:06 EDT
From: (Tom Rowe) <trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu>
Subject: Re: weber

On Fri, 29 Sep 1995 17:10:33 -0400 (EDT) Stuart Moore wrote:

>Hello all:
>      A friend has a weber carb. conversion on his series III and
>is having problems with hesitation and general rotten running. 
>Does anyone out there have a book on the carb. 
Snip
Which model is it? Haynes has a manual on the Webers, including the 2bbl used in LR conversions.

Tom Rowe
UW Center for Dairy Research
Madison, WI 53706	| Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck
wk 608-265-6194	| in places even more inaccessible
hm 608-243-8660

------------------------------

From: Roy_H._Caldwell@desktop.org (Roy H. Caldwell)
Subject: Re: engine timming
Date: 30 Sep 1995 15:33:48 GMT

The reason John Muir, The Idiot Book author, made a distinction between air-
and water-cooled regarding timing is as follows.  Strobe timing requires the
engine be run up while standing still.  The danger for air-cooled is that the
engine will get little or no cooling during the process and the timing will
tend to be off due to the heat build-up during the process.  Water cooled
have no such problems.  There is no real reason that water-cooled can not be
correctly timed using the static timing method.  Normally strobe timing is
considered more accurate.  Knowing how to do both would be good info.  Using
strobe while at home and use static timing for repairs in the field are
required.  I have used both with good results.  There are 12v strobe lights
but they require that Joe Lucas is behaving nicely.

Roy - Rovers in the Rockies
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------------------------------

From: Andrew Grafton <A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk>
Subject: Re : Max RPM ?
Date: Sat, 30 Sep 95 16:07:08 BST

> With regard to the recent discussions on the subject...
> I have a 1960 series II
(specs snipped)

Is this a 109" or an 88"?

> I have managed speeds in excess of 85mph out of this machine and I 
> was wondering if it was possible to calculate the engine RPM from the 
> various gear ratios.

Crikey!  Double my usual cruising speed!

That is possible without going over the red line.

Assuming;

That you were going down a 1:10 with a following
tornado in the wake of a supremely large juggernaut. 

If the 85 is actual (road speed) on a 109 with 205's on, you'd
be able to do it (just) in 4th OD because the decrease in ratio 
of the wheels would be cancelled out by the increase in the OD.

(picture of car going slowly and small wheels whizzing
round like mad)

An 88" shouldn't have much trouble, revwise, with an OD and
discounting air resistance.

Below is my 'on the dash' rev chart for our 109" SIII,
Standard 'boxes with 7.50X16 tyres.

The radials we have on now make the speed for a given 
rpm slightly higher as they are about 1" overall bigger
than the crossplies.

bear in mind that if you have 205's on a 109" then your
actual speed will be nothing like the indicated speed?

Speed   1st     2nd     3rd     4th     Rev
5       952     649     438     318     809
10      1903    1298    875     635     1617
15      2855    1947    1313    953     2426
20      3806    2596    1750    1270    3234
25      4758    3245    2188    1588    4043
30      5709    3894    2625    1905    4851
35      6661    4543    3063    2223    5660
40      7612    5192    3500    2540    6468
45      8564    5841    3938    2858    7277
50      9515    6490    4375    3175    8085
55      10467   7139    4813    3493    8894
60      11418   7788    5250    3810    9702
65      12370   8437    5688    4128    10511
70      13321   9086    6125    4445    11319
75      14273   9735    6563    4763    12128
80      15224   10384   7000    5080    12936

At 85 in 4th we'd be doing about 5800 rpm, and with
an overdrive that would be well within the scope of
a petrol engine.

Not that we do more than 3000 on a regular basis in our
diesels!!!

I think that when you take into account the changes in 
tyre size and diff ratio between an 109" and an 88" they
cancel out, so the above chart may apply?  Please, someone,
correct me if I'm wrong!

For tyre sizes different to those specified in the manual,
the figures above will change.  For example, a set of 
205R16s is different to a set of 6.50X16s.

I can't find out the exact Fairey Overdrive ratio.  If anyone knows,
please tell me!

All the best,

Andy
A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk

Sorry about the confused nature of this post - I am immersed trying to
design airbag systems which are *somewhat* different!

------------------------------

Date: 30 Sep 95 11:26:24 EDT
From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com>
Subject: Re: RR mass flow sensor

> I have a question related to the fuel/air topic.  My "flap type" mass flow
> sensor has a fair amount of rust-colored grunge in the plenum, on the intake
> side of the flap.  Since the shop manual has a procedure for cleaning the

Methinks what you're looking at is the throttle butterfly and not the air
flow sensor.
The air flow sensor proper, containing the infamous spring-loaded flap,
is the little 'box' with the black plastic top sitting between the air
filter and the plenum chamber inlet, with two flex hoses on either side,
and a big fat multi-plug connected to it.

The grunge on and around the plenum inlet is mainly baked/cruded oil fumes
coming from the crankcase breather which enters the plenum just before the
throttle disc. The hot crankcase fumes meet with cool outside air, condensate
on the disc and inside the plenum, and the result is this unseemly grunge.
Diesel is actually good stuff to wash this mess off, brake cleaner will
also do. In reiteration of previous caveats, I'd advise not to use petrol
or methylated spirit (... *BOOOM*)

Stefan
<Stefan R. Jacob, 100043.2400@CompuServe.com>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 30 Sep 95 11:23:12 EDT
From: (Tom Rowe) <trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu>
Subject: Re: engine timming

On 30 Sep 1995 15:33:48 GMT Roy wrote:

>considered more accurate.  Knowing how to do both would be good info.  Using
>strobe while at home and use static timing for repairs in the field are
>required.  I have used both with good results.  
Exactly what I do. When I got rid of my VW I put the timing light I'd made in my field spares box.

>There are 12v strobe lights but they require that Joe Lucas is behaving nicely.
I've only ever used 12v strobe lights. Never had a problem, even on Land Rovers.

Tom Rowe
UW Center for Dairy Research
Madison, WI 53706	| Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck
wk 608-265-6194	| in places even more inaccessible
hm 608-243-8660

------------------------------

From: Wdcockey@aol.com
Date: Sat, 30 Sep 1995 22:10:08 -0400
Subject: Bulkhead Repairs

The repair sections from Rovers North are galvanized which is wonderful for
corrosion protection. However, the zinc must be ground off of the surfaces to
be welded. Wear a good dust mask since inhaling zinc is not healthy.
Both individual sections as well as the complete footwell unit are listed.
RN also lists door post (hinge pillar) replacements.

I haven't done any bulkhead repairs yet, but the experience is clearly in my
future. Here is what a search of my archives have produced in the way of
published materials.

Land-Rover Series I, II & III, Guide to Purchase & D.I.Y. Restoration,
Lindsay Porter, Haynes, 1992
pp 90-92: 11 photos with captions. Replacement of complete footwell with
replacement unit on new panel on one side, and large patches on the other.
pp 133-136: 14 photos with captions of Series I bulkhead repairs
Not a lot of details but helps in understanding the procedure.

Practical Classics on Land Rover Restoration, Brooklands,
pp 19-22: photos & captions on major repairs to a Series I bulkhead.
Additional repairs to rot later discovered under the windscreen are mentioned
further on.
(This book is the tale of a Land Rover purchased with the intent of making
limited repairs to get it back on the road, and then continuing the
restoration while it was driven. It turned into a major rebuild of the entire
vehicle. Does this sound familiar to anyone?)

Land Rover Owner (LRO) (the magazine, not the mailing list)
March 1995, pp 76-78: One of a series by Robert Ivins on restoring an early
Series II. A brief description and photos of major repairs to a bulkhead.
July 1994, pp 84-85: One of a series by Robert Ivins on restoring a Series I.
A brief description and photos of major repairs to a Series I bulkhead.

Land Rover World
May 1994 pp 65-71, June 1994 pp 64-68 Two installments in a series by Jerry
Glenwright on the restoration of an early Series II. These two cover the
repair of a door hinge pillar using replacement parts. The discussion is
rather detailed, although confusing at times without having dismantled a
hinge pillar. After repairing one hinge pillar the decision was made to
replace the bulkhead with another because of the extensive repairs required
on the other side. A used bulkhead was obtained which required repairs.
July 1994 pp 70-75: Another from the same series. Removal of the bulkhead
without as major disassembly as the official manual calls for. Again a lot of
detail.
August 1994 pp 28-32: Footwell patching from the same series, including
access to the footwells for repairs. The repairs are not as extensive as
replacing the entire footwell.
September 1994 pp 64-69: The last of the series which covers replacing the
bulkhead bracket at the bottom of the hinge pillar. As with the others there
is plenty of detail, but it can be a bit confusing if you are not actually
doing the work.
These are the most detailed, and probably the best discussion of bulkhead and
hinge pillar replacement I have seen. Unfortunately, by Sept. 1994 issue was
the last for Mr. Glenwright had vanished from the masthead and subsequent DIY
repair articles have been much more cursory.

The books and LRO back issues:
 LRO Bookshop
Anglian House, Chapel Lane
Botesdale, Diss, Norfolk IP22 1DT
01379 89011
01739 898244 Fax

Land Rover World back issues
LRW Back Issues Dept
Hainault Rd, Little Heath
Romford, Essex RM6 5NP
0181-597 7335
0181-599 5965 Fax

------------------------------

From: PDoncaster@aol.com
Date: Sat, 30 Sep 1995 22:49:40 -0400
Subject: IIA 88 Steering Box 

I'm about to start the rebuilding of the steering box on my IIA 88. I'm 90%
sure it's the origin of my sloppy steering. Any one out there done this, got
any advice!?

Also, about these floor heat shields, are they a catalog item or custom?
 
Peter Doncaster
New Orleans, USA
'64 IIA 88" SW
PDoncaster@AOL.com

   Snorkel equiped, waiting for the next flood.

------------------------------

From: PDoncaster@aol.com
Date: Sat, 30 Sep 1995 22:53:51 -0400
Subject: Radio placement

Jan Ben writes:

> Also, can you recommend a place to fit a radio?

Jan

The previous owner of my 88 mounted the radio and CB against the bulkhead
behind the front seats, specifically, behind the middle seat. My middle seat
has a recess in the back,(could be custom) anyway, the knobs face up, and you
have to lean the seat foreward to make adjustments, but it's out of the way
and out of sight. 

Peter Doncaster
'64 IIA 88 SW

------------------------------

From: Wdcockey@aol.com
Date: Sat, 30 Sep 1995 23:57:44 -0400
Subject: Re: Max RPMs

Engine Speed  to Road Speed Equations (within limitations of text only)

Gearbox (transmission), transfer case, over drive and axle ratios are all
expressed as ratio of speed in to speed out.
All Series Land Rover have axles with 4.70:1 ratio (unless modified)
Fairey Overdrive ratio is 0.782:1 with the overdrive engaged, 1:1 with
overdrive not engaged.

Overall Ratio is the ratio of engine speed to tire rotational speed (i.e. how
fast the tire is spinning - usually expressed in rpm)
Overall Ratio = Gearbox Ratio * Transfer Case Ratio * Overdrive Ratio * Axle
Ratio
(See tables below)

The formula for tire rotational speed to road speed is:
Tire rotational speed = Road speed / (2 * PI * Rolling Radius) * Units
Conversion Factor
English
Tire rotational speed (rpm) = 168 * Road speed (mph) / Rolling Radius
(inches)
Metric
Tire rotational speed (rpm) = 2.65 * Road speed (kph) / Rolling Radius
(metres)
I've included the 2 * PI in the constant.
Rolling Radius is the distance from the center of the wheel to the ground.
Measure from the center of a hub cap to the ground with your LR parked.
Rolling Radius increases slightly with speed, but the difference can be
disregarded at LR speeds.

So then:
Engine speed = 168 * Overall ratio * road speed (mph) / rolling radius (in)
Engine speed = 2.65 * Overall ratio * road speed (kph) / rolling radius (m)
Or if you want to calculate road speed:
Road speed (mph) = 0.00595 * Rolling radius (in) * Engine speed (rpm) /
Overall ratio
Road speed (kph) = 0.377 * Rolling radius (m) * Engine speed (rpm) / Overall
ratio

Go measure your tires, pick your prefered engine speed, and look up the
appropriate overall ratios below. Then calculate your shift points. Or use
the other formulas to find out how much you flog your engine. If you have
overdrive multiply the overall ratios below by 0.78 for overdrive engaged.

Be very careful of trying to add and subtract % changes. Engaging the
overdrive DECREASES your ENGINE SPEED by 22% at constant road speed, but
INCREASES your ROAD SPEED by 28% at constant engine speed. Since changes in
ratios and tire size are multiplicative, percent changes for multiple changes
do not simply add. Get out the calculator or use a spreadsheet instead.

15.1 mph per 1000 rpm engine speed in 4th gear, high range, no overdrive is a
published number for 6.00 x 16 tires.

Transmission and Transfer Case Ratios

Series I & Series II/IIA thru trans "B" (approx. 1962)
4th   1.00
3rd   1.38
2nd   2.04
1st   3.00
Rev   2.55
Transfer Case High   1.15
Transfer Case Low   2.89
Overall Ratios in High without Overdrive
4th   5.40
3rd   7.43
2nd   11.02
1st   16.17

Series IIA from trans "C" onward (excluding 1 ton)
4th   1.00
3rd   1.50
2nd   2.22
1st   3.60
Rev   3.02
TC High   1.15
TC Low   2.35
Overall Ratios in High without Overdrive
4th   5.40
3rd   8.09
2nd   11.98
1st   19.42

Series IIA 1 Ton
4th   1.00
3rd   1.50
2nd   2.22
1st   3.60
Rev   3.02
TC High   1.57
TC Low   3.27
Overall Ratios in High without Overdrive
4th   7.19
3rd   10.79
2nd   15.96
1st   25.89

Series III
4th   1.00
3rd   1.50
2nd   2.22
1st   3.68
Rev   4.02
TC High   1.15
TC Low   2.35
Overall Ratios in High without Overdrive
4th   5.40
3rd   8.09
2nd   11.98
1st   19.86

------------------------------

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