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Date: Fri, 29 Sep 1995 01:29:36 +0100
From: cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine)
Subject: Re[3]: Question of timing...

 Rick Crider <RICKCRIDER@aol.com> writes: 

 Well......I wasn't confused till I read Alan Richer's and Michael Carradine's
 postings.....    Now I'm not even sure which manual I used.....

 Where's the confusion??  I think they agree, but don't always specify all
 the parameters.  The Rover has so much latitude in operation it's hard to
 tell most times if some settings could be better.  Performance and mileage
 are the ultimate tests in a clean and cool running efficient engine. 

>How does one decipher which head one has......7.1 or 8.1  ratio.
 both a Slla and a Slll.......are the heads not the same?

 Most likely both are 7:1, unless they've been modified and the head milled.

>Is the timing proceedure different?

 Procedure, no.  Settings, yes for different heads, and varies with octane
 used.

>I think it's running a bit rich on fuel mixture (dry black soot at tail pipe)
 but never blamed that on timing.

 I don't either.  Sorry if I confused you here...  I meant to explain that
 the fuel mixture and idle need to be adjusted for best performance and
 to arrive at a steady idle setting to which the timing is set.  Sometimes
 it's an iterative process, ie the mixture and idle are set and the engine
 runs at 800 RPM, then the timing is changed and the engine changes speed,
 so it's back to adjusting the idle.  The valves and timing are mechanical
 settings, independent of others... that is unless you change the octane.
 You can set your timing for a lower octane and burn higher octane fuel at
 that setting, but it would be a waste (maybe contributing to soot deposit).
 Setting the timing to higher octane fuel and burning lower octane fuel
 will lead to a poor running engine.

>Runs fine.....though I've always thought it was a bit sluggish. I think
 it's running a bit rich on fuel mixture (dry black soot at tail pipe) but
 never blamed that on timing.   ...Should I consider retiming?

 Why not.  Check your settings and try different things.  Optimize your
 mixture and idle, and maybe advance your timing into the higher octane
 range to burn that fuel (?).  You can listen or measure the change of
 engine speed as you adjust the distributor, then check the best setting.
 Advance it so that it doesn't backfire. It should fire just before the top
 the compression stroke so that the air-fuel mixture is detonated at the
 peak when the air space is smallest and expand violently on a down stroke.
 Naturally, if detonating too soon it will backfire.  Check it at different
 engine speeds decelerating not too fast with a tight vacumm retard hookup.

 Regards,

 Michael Carradine, Architect                          Ph/Fax 510-988-0900
 Carradine Studios, PO Box 494, Walnut Creek, CA 94597 USA    <cs@crl.com>
 _________________________________________________________________________
 Mercedes-Benz Unimog 4x4 WWW page at:  http://www.crl.com/~cs/unimog.html

------------------------------

Date: 29 Sep 95 06:03:31 EDT
From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com>
Subject: Re: Fan Squeak

> is driving me crazy. The fan on my 1994 Def-90 makes a mind rattling squeaking

As usual, there could be a number of causes. Most likely the belt is sitting
way to tight, or is of a wrong rating (too long/short/wide etc.), or of
inferior quality, or the little tensioner wheel isn't aligned properly
with the crankshaft pulley, causing the belt to run at a slant. Theoretically
it could also be the viscous unit, but on such a new vehicle I would rule
this out.

Stefan
<Stefan R. Jacob, 100043.2400@CompuServe.com>

------------------------------

Date: 29 Sep 95 06:02:34 EDT
From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com>
Subject: Re: Really, really sorry ...

Yeah... ok, what does netiquette provide for such cases -
Virtual firing squad ?  Digital flagellation ?  e-mail letter bomb? ...

------------------------------

Date: 29 Sep 95 06:01:28 EDT
From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com>
Subject: Re: RR problems...

> Surely the Rovers have done away with timing advance on the distributor.

I'm afraid that on the RRs in question here (87 - 92 Efi) the distributor
actually does, er, suck (or rather is being sucked)- i.e. vacuum controled
timing advance.

>    Anyway, after this longwinded introduction, my theory is that if the
>    regulator is not working correctly then under load conditions there is
>    insufficient fuel pressure at the injectors resulting in a lean

That could very well occur! Though I've never heard of such a 'fuel pressure
syndrome', so I guess the system's generally foolproof (YMMV).

Here's another theory: The RR has been standing a while near the woods,
and a chipmunk stuffed your air filter full of acorns...
(Hey, this is getting interesting - "There's more than one way to kill an Efi")

Stefan
<Stefan R. Jacob, 100043.2400@CompuServe.com>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Sep 1995 21:55:46 +1000
From: Lloyd Allison <lloyd@cs.monash.edu.au>
Subject: hot footwell

We used to put layers of newspaper in the LHS footwell as
insulation against the heat, especially in the oz summer -
ok as long as it doesn't reach Farenheit 451

I suspect that a light metal heat shield could be made and attached
either to the exhaust pipe or the floor panel (but not both) with good effect.

(We also tried paper-tissues in the ears as sound-proofing on long trips!)

Lloyd
Dept. of Computer Science, Monash University, Clayton, Victoria 3168, AUSTRALIA
tel: 61 3 9905 5205      fax: 61 3 9905 5146      email: lloyd@cs.monash.edu.au
<A HREF="http://www.cs.monash.edu.au/~lloyd/tildeLand-Rover/">Land-Rover</A>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Sep 1995 13:55:48 +0200 (GMT+0200)
From: Andrew Birrell <pdandrew@iaccess.za>
Subject: South African Land Rover user group

Is there a South African LRO group on the 'net ?

If so, please e-mail how to join

Thank you

Andrew Birrell
Cape Town
SIIA Diesel SW - the green mamba

------------------------------

From: sreddock@VNET.IBM.COM
Date: Fri, 29 Sep 95 13:05:33 BST
Subject: Re: Re:HELP!

Tom, I thought it was loggers who cut trees!

But ales are definitely preferred!!!  (and not for their tree felling powers)

Steve Reddock

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Sep 95 07:13:51 EDT
From: (Tom Rowe) <trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu>
Subject: engine timming

I've been reading the threads on timming and it reminded me of someting I read many years ago.
It was in that well known hippie book, "How to Keep Your Volkswagen Alive". In it, the author (what was his name?) stated that static timming should only be used on air cooled engines, and dynamic timming on liquid cooled. He explained why, but I don't
Of course, static timming is better than no timming. I use the static timming method to get it close enough to start, like on an engine rebuild, then hook up the strobe. I've never done a performance comparison between static and dynamic, but it's an i

Tom Rowe
UW-Center for Dairy Research
Madison, WI                    | Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck
608-265-6194                  | in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Sep 95 07:46:08 EDT
From: (Tom Rowe) <trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu>
Subject: loggers

On Fri, 29 Sep 95 13:05:33 BST Steve Reddock wrote:

>Tom, I thought it was loggers who cut trees!

Yeh, figured someone would catch me on that. But at the end of the day I'd take an ale (or a lager). Or a stout for that matter.
If anyone wonders how this relates to Land Rovers, it's where the Koenig PTO came in handy. At work we used a skidder, but in the tree lot at home the PTO worked full time. An electric winch would have burned up.
Hey, I had to make a connection, right? Or is the subject of beer enough? Oh, it was a IIa, so I could open the bottles on the dash, another connection to LR's.

>But ales are definitely preferred!!!  (and not for their tree felling powers)

Tom Rowe
UW-Center for Dairy Research
Madison, WI                    | Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck
608-265-6194                  | in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

From: Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: Really, really sorry ...
Date: Fri, 29 Sep 95 13:56:39 BST

> To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net

	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 11 lines)]
> Yeah... ok, what does netiquette provide for such cases -
> Virtual firing squad ?  Digital flagellation ?  e-mail letter bomb? ...
All three....plus being sentenced to drive an Austin Allegro for
life.

Mike Rooth

------------------------------

Date: 29 Sep 95 09:02:27 EDT
From: "R. Pierce Reid" <70004.4011@compuserve.com>
Subject: Footwell repair advice

Phil:

You can get all the parts you need to rebuild your footwells (actually part of
the bulkhead) from Rovers North.  The big problem is that to do the job right,
you really need to remove a lot of sheetmetal from the front end of the Rover
and remove the bulkhead before welding on all the new parts.

The solution?  Buy a bulkhead from a derelict vehicle... (Anyone on the list
have a parts car that can donate a rusty bulkhead to Phil??)  do all the work
and repairs on that bulkhead off the vehicle while you are still driving yours.
Then, it's just a (albiet long) weekend job to tear off all the front
sheetmetal, windshield, ancillaries, etc and swap your new, restored (nicely
painted and rust-proofed) bulkhead for the rusty one you take out.  Off the
frame, a bulkhead repair is an easy job... on the frame, well, ugh. 

I did this on a vehicle a few years ago... it actually took 3 days (but I took
some breaks-- like to sleep) and a few more days after that to get everything
really sorted out (why do the turn signals come on when I press the brake?).
But the vehicle was only down for a few days and the repair was first-rate.
BTW... weld the parts in, don't braze them.  Brazing is only marginally strong
enough for that application.

Cheers, 

R. P. Reid

------------------------------

From: Richard Jones <rich@apricot.mee.com>
Subject: Re: Really, really sorry ...
Date: Fri, 29 Sep 1995 14:50:11 +0100 (BST)

Mike Rooth writes:
> 	> Yeah... ok, what does netiquette provide for such cases -
> 	> Virtual firing squad ?  Digital flagellation ?  e-mail letter bomb? ...
	
> 	All three....plus being sentenced to drive an Austin Allegro for
> 	life.

Isn't that a little harsh for a first offence?
__ 
  _ __              Apricot Computer Limited
 ' )  )      /      3500 Parkside               Tel:   (+44) 121 717 7171
  /--' o _. /_      Birmingham Business Park    Fax:   (+44) 121 717 0123
 /  <_<_(__/ <_     BIRMINGHAM  B37 7YS
 Richard Jones      United Kingdom              Email: richardj@apricot.mee.com

------------------------------

Subject: Unstable idle in D90
From: skidmore@mail02.mitre.org (William E. Skidmore)
Date: Fri, 29 Sep 95 11:34:58 -0400

Folks;

I have a short question - my D90 has been suffering lately from an 
intermittent and erratic problem:

When I stop at a traffic light/stop sign/anything, and put the clutch in, the 
idle will drop drastically or totally (re: 0-100rpm).  When the engine stalls, 
I restart it and everything is OK.  

This doesn't happen all the time, but some times it happens for several miles 
in stop and go traffic.

Have replaced (around the 30k mile mark) plugs, rotor, fuel filter, cleaned 
breather on valve cover, changed fluids, lube job, i.e., roughly everything 
that's called for.  

This problem happened once in the spring (and thus was written off as 
personality anomally), and didn't happen again until recently.

Idle problems like this usually correspond to a fuel delivery problem (auto 
choke, butterfly, jets), but I don't have much experience with injection 
systems, although since its an EFI system, anything from fuel pump to the 
logic chip is suspect.

It's in the dealer right now, as its getting close to the magical 42k warranty 
limit, and I noticed there were a number of service bulletins issued against 
the '94NAS D90 as shown on the Alldata Web Page, so best make sure that 
they've all been applied (you know, little things that they don't recall for, 
but which actually make life more pleasant!).  Also for the idle issue, 
vibrations at around 1krpm in third (re: previous mentions of abberant 
vibrations in D90s), and what appears to be a frozen fill plug on the transfer 
(hanging from a wrench trying to turn it didn't work, and hasn't been touched 
since dealers 15k service (watch your wallets, it cost me >$450 US))

Dealer started to give me the line about charges incurred to identify the idle 
problem, and how that wasn't covered under warranty.  I pointed out that since 
there were two service bulletins issued with titles of "Unstable Idle", the 
implication was that it would be warranty.  Obviously, the service people 
frowned on that!

Bottom line is - cost: 1) Given this vehicle is largely electronic, what is 
the consensus of the probability that the idle issue is a "fair wear and tear" 
type problem?  2) Since the engine is the same for earlier RRs and Discos, has 
anyone else out there experienced anything similar, and if so, what was the 
solution (assuming its been identified and corrected)?  
3) If its not warrantied, what would be the ballpark expected costs (got to 
prepare for the coronary!)?

Please respond to skidmore@mitre.org, since I only receive the end-of-day 
report from the listserver.

Thanks-in-advance,

Bill Skidmore

------------------------------

From: Sanna@aol.com
Date: Fri, 29 Sep 1995 11:42:46 -0400
Subject: Re: subscribe/unsubscribe

You can check in  ....but you can never check out.  Welcome to the Hotel
Majordomo.

------------------------------

From: Sanna@aol.com
Date: Fri, 29 Sep 1995 11:46:50 -0400
Subject: Re: RE: David Brown RR Problem

>>P.S.  lest you think that all of my luck is good I had to replace a CV
joint and spindle ball (?) last month.  But this is a great vehicle!!

What were the symptoms that led you to replace these parts?

Tony

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Sep 95 12:41:30 EDT
From: jib@big.att.com (Jan Ben)
Subject: Looking for misc. parts

Hello lros:

I am looking for a few misc. parts for my 109":
 
1. side folding steps
2. rear double step-up
3. access ladder for the roof rack.

Also, can you recommend a place to fit a radio?

What about ideas of setting up the 109 hardtop for camping? (I now have
4 narrow bench seats facing inwards)

Thanks
Jan

------------------------------

From: Leland J Roys <roys@hpkel13.cup.hp.com>
Subject: Def-90 Warrenty
Date: Fri, 29 Sep 95 10:00:52 PDT

Hello William,

Regarding you idling problems with the def-90

>Dealer started to give me the line about charges incurred to identify the idle
>problem, and how that wasn't covered under warranty.  I pointed out that since
>there were two service bulletins issued with titles of "Unstable Idle", the
>implication was that it would be warranty.  Obviously, the service people
>frowned on that!

You are giving me a heart-attack! I thought that the warrenty was bumper-bumper
until 42K miles (everything covered, no exceptions), please let me know if
I am wrong (I currently have 12K miles on my 1994 Def-90). I have been taking
mine into the dealer for any problem,even if very minor, expecting it to be
completely covered.

Leland Roys
roys@cup.hp.com
1994 Def-90 (Red)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Sep 1995 13:08:56 -0400
From: rvirzi@gte.com (Robert A. Virzi)
Subject: Spotted on Martha's Vineyard

All-
For those in New England (no way to choke down distribution on this list,
is there?), I spotted some very interesting vehicles for sale on Martha's
Vineyard, right on Main St in Edgartown.  I don't know who runs this
outfit, but they do some very nice restorations.  All of the cars on this
lot were in emaculate condition!

There were three Willies trucks, one with a beautiful wooden body.  (Does
that make it a Woodie?)  The largest was a very early sort of Minivan, with
three rows of seats in the standard minivan configuration.  Two LRs were
also up for sale, an 88 and a 109, I think.  Sorry, but my poor LR
identification skills don't allow me to be more precise.  There wasn't
anyone around to talk to, so all this is just from hanging around and
drooling over them with my son.  Prices seemed a bit high, $5-6k for the 88
and about $15k for the 109, if I remeber correctly.  Can't say how they
run, but the interior and exterior finish was among some of the best I have
seen (limited experience, granted).  Oh yes, the Willy 'Minivan' was over
$20k.  If someone wants more info, contact me and I can probably get you
the name of the place.

BTW - The Vinyaaad has some great offroading.  Things aren't very
challenging from a driving standpoint, but you can get to spectacular
beaches and drive for miles without seeing anyone.  The trustees of
reservations has lots of land there, and they make it available for a fee
or to members.  There are even some trails through the dunes which offer
excellent birding. Now is the time to go, because the summer crush is over
but the weather is still warm.

An idea - someone should publish the equivalent of a Petersen's Field Guide
for rover spotting.  That would be a kick!
-Bob Virzi

  rvirzi@gte.com             Think Globally. ===
  +1(617)466-2881                            === Act Locally!

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Sep 1995 10:20:48 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Brabyn <brabyn@skivs.ski.org>
Subject: Re: Unstable idle in D90

William -- I would try lubricating or renewing the idle air bypass 
valve/stepper motor. This little doodad is found at the back of the 
intake plenum near the firewall, and its function is to let air bypass 
the throttle valve to control idle speed when the vehicle is stopped 
(sensed by the road speed sensor -- another possibility you could check 
out) or idling under load etc. I've found it doesn't do well on the diet 
of desert dust I feed it, and periodically needs to be lubricated, 
otherwise it sticks and messes up the idle.

As said above, another possibility might be the road speed sensor, located
beside the chassis rail about under the driver (on the RR anyway) which is
in line with the speedo cable and tells the ECU if the vehicle is moving.
If the ECU doesn't know you've stopped, it won't send a signal to the idle
air bypass valve/stepper motor to open.  Made by Lucas's sidekick Jaeger,
it is not above throwing in the towel. 

Just a couple of thoughts -- 

Good luck

John Brabyn

89RR

------------------------------

From: Robert Watson (CNA) <a-robw@microsoft.com>
Date: Fri, 29 Sep 95 10:40:53 TZ
Subject: RE: Def-90 Warrenty

Call LRNA (the 1-800 # is in the manual) and "get their opinion" on 
this. They will most likely be very interested in your experience.

-- Bob W.
----------
| Regarding you idling problems with the def-90
| >Dealer started to give me the line about charges incurred to 

identify the idle
| >problem, and how that wasn't covered under warranty.  I pointed out 
that since...

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Sep 1995 08:23:27 -1000 (HST)
From: Pat Guerin <pat@pixi.com>
Subject: Re: Unstable idle in D90

Just experienced the same problem this morning while driving to work.  I 
noticed the same indicators that you described and will take the D90 in 
for service...gee I only have 12K on it...please let us know what service 
was required...aloha from hawaii.

Pat@pixi.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Sep 1995 11:49:30 -0700 (PDT)
From: David Rosenbaum <rosenbau@u.washington.edu>
Subject: Re: Unstable idle in D90

On Fri, 29 Sep 1995, William E. Skidmore wrote:

> I have a short question - my D90 has been suffering lately from an 
> intermittent and erratic problem:
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)]
> Dealer started to give me the line about charges incurred to identify the idle 
> problem, and how that wasn't covered under warranty. 

Dear William, 
I have a '94 D90 that I bought in Dec. 93. In the Spring of '94, it began 
to stall when I stopped in traffic and sometimes it was difficult to 
start up. The Seattle dealer's service specialist cleaned the pins on a 
connecter that he said had some grease inside them. I don't know if it 
was a connecter that went to the "computer chip", the EFI or the box near 
the air filter (another computer sensor?). He used care in removing all 
of the grease and the problem stopped. I dunno whether your D90 could be 
having the same problem - maybe a blob of grease got dislodged onto some 
pins. Also, I don't know if this problem was addressed in a Land Rover 
Service bulletin...

If you or your dealer want more info, the Technologist at Seattle Land 
Rover is Art Weichbrodt and their phone # is (206) 682-9205. If you call, 
mention my name and Art will recall the problem I had..

Regarding the Land Rover Warranty, I would be shocked if the problem 
*isn't* covered by Land Rover. And if your dealer is giving you a hard 
time about it, I would phone Land Rover North America in Maryland and 
check with them directly.

Good luck and best wishes,

David Rosenbaum

P.S. Would you please post the address for the Web site of D90 Service 
Bulletins? Thanks in advance.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Sep 95 12:07:57 -0700
From: "TeriAnn Wakeman"  <twakeman@apple.com>
Subject: Re: Looking for misc. parts

In message <199509291643.LAA26310@butler.uk.stratus.com> Jan Ben writes:

> Also, can you recommend a place to fit a radio?

Depends if you plan to take the top off and how deep you tend to wade the car.

If the top tends to stay on, the nicest set ups I have seen is placing a board 
or equiv across the front top inside where the internal sun visors fit.  There's
room to mount a radio, speakers, CB, build a map storrage space & more.

if you don't use the center seat, you could get a center cubby box that has a 
radio mount space built in like the Defenders.

Some people mount them vertically afainst the bulkhead over the transmission 
tounnel.  if your car ever goes wading, this spot can go underwater when you 
least expect it.

I've seen one person cut a hole in the seat box & place it there.  He operated 
it by brale while driving.

Or you can just get the smallest radio you can find and just sit in your car & 
put it in different places until you find the one that feels the most right.

> What about ideas of setting up the 109 hardtop for camping? (I now have
> 4 narrow bench seats facing inwards)

Jan please provide the following information:

- 2 door or 4 door

- How many people do you need to set up for

- Can you build things in or do you need everything removable/outside the cargo 
area for hauling cargo

- Do you need everything inside or can you spread out to a combination 
inside/outside

- Are you thinking of parking the car & camping for a few days in one spot?  
Having a base camp & driving the LR to & from the base camp, overnight stoping &
pack up & be off the next morning. or what?

post the above information and people can provide suggestions that better fit 
your needs.  Could be anything from filling the inside of your car with stuff, a
pop open roof mounted tent, a tent that attavches to the back of your open Land 
Rover or just having a seporate tent & chuckbox that you can pull out of the car
& leave the Land Rover empty & ready for major off road action.

If it'll help. I can let you know what I'm up to on Project "2 Doormobile"

------   Project 2 Doormobile   ------

Car is 2 door 109 with tailgate, 2-1/4L petrol engine Stage I Dual power brake 
system.  I single camp and often need to just stop for the night & get back on 
the road next morning.

petrol- 2 front underseat tanks plus rear tank.  Rear tank uses filler hardware 
from High capacity pickup.

Propane- 5 Gal propane tank horizontally mounted under the bench between front 
right seat and rear tyre.

Water - Tank mounted under bench, oposit side same place as propane tank.  
Filler modified from front petrol filler.

Top - Dormobile top.  Right cot removed.  left cot widened 6 inches.  Foam pads 
for ends of cot. 4 inch plastic tube on right side where cot was storred to hold
poles for outside awning and nylon tarp.

Top sides - Sliding glass window near rear blank sides forward to back for front
doors.  The is a mating of station wagon and blank utility 88 sides

Back - tailgate (just too handy to sit on) with tail gate top hinged from side 
instead of top.

Storrage cabinets - Directly behind driver and passanger seats over water & 
propane tanks.  Dormobile wardrodbe on one side, simular cabinet with shelves on
other.  These sit against blank side section

Cooking - Dormobile propane stove mounted at rear under rear side window.

Washing - Dormobile sink plus second small stainless steel sink in small cabinet
adjacent to DM sink, to provide wash & rinse water.  Demand pump mounted in 
storrage sloset over water tank to provide the water.  Small portapotty to be 
storred under second sink.

Cold storrage - 12V chest refrigerator to sit on bench behind wardwrobe.  Cooler
on floor if additional space needed.

Rear seating - small single width side facing folding LR seat oposit stove at 
back.  Stove cover and refrigerator top can be used as desk/table space.

More-
-Curtains on windows
-small cabinets above both rear side windows
- second battery
-Flourescent lights one at each end of pop up section of roof
- carry stand alone table & chair to use outside the car

Also under consideration:

-narrow utility box under main section of rear floor alongside drive shaft that 
opens onto the inside floor.  Would fit almo boxes.  One for tools and two for 
spare parts (fan belt, radiator hoses, tune-up, fuel pump. water pump)

- extra plumbing for outside shower

Distinguishing stuff on the car thats not camper related:

- Rear cross member has been modified to be like military.  Allows use of 
Hi-Lift jack at rear corners.  Rear bumperetts added.

- Front bumper has over riders, 'D' rings and a big old Vancouver winch

- 7 inch wide black steel D90 wheels (not alloys) shod with 265-75X16 BF 
Goodrich mud terrains.

- Brake system Dual power brakes same as '84 109

Anyway thats my current "2 Doormobile" project

TeriAnn

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Sep 1995 13:27:34 -0600 (MDT)
From: Rob Bailey <baileyr@cuug.ab.ca>
Subject: Alternators

I was thinking about changing my positive ground dynamo equipped LR over 
to a large alternator equipped negative ground system. I have a document 
that details that changes to negative ground, but was wondering what I 
should use for an alternator? I've heard people talk about GM's built-in 
regulator alternators, but does anybody know which particular model I 
should look for? What mod's are needed to make it work, etc... Does it 
just bolt in? 

Thanks,
Rob

------------------------------

Subject: Re: Unstable idle in D90
From: skidmore@mail02.mitre.org (William E. Skidmore)
Date: Fri, 29 Sep 95 15:49:08 -0400

David;

Thanks for your input and everyone else's.  Seems that the idle problem is not 
an aberration, but rather quite real and being experienced by enough 
individuals to warrant some action by LRNA.

"Michael" at LRNA Customer Support knows me (probably refers to me as a pain 
in the butt!), and he's aware of this listserver and the proliferation of LROs 
that are on the net (I know, I told him several times!), but LRNA still isn't 
net aware (too bad).  They'd sure be able to make good use of the listserver 
as a litmus device for product introduction/customer satisfaction.

ALLDATA's Web Page is at the following location:

http://www.alldata.tsb.com/

This page has a listing of the service bulletins that have been issued against 
a particular year/manufacturer/engine type, and lists them by month issued and 
title.  This applies for RRs and Discos, as well.  Unfortunately, you'd have 
to pay to see what the bulletin says, but the titles should be enough to 
enable us to jerk the dealership's chains.

The "normal" procedure for dealing with service bulletins is to wait until a 
vehicle comes in for service, and then, if the service department is on top of 
things, apply them at that time.  There is generally no incentive to inform 
the owner via other means, or in fact to inform them at all of anything that 
needed to be fixed that was announced via the service bulletin, so long as its 
under warranty.  It is the exceptional dealership that does otherwise.

Per someone else's request, I will post the results of the diagnosis and 
repair as soon as I find out.

Bill Skidmore 

>On Fri, 29 Sep 1995, William E. Skidmore wrote:
>> I have a short question - my D90 has been suffering lately from an 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
>> intermittent and erratic problem:
>> When I stop at a traffic light/stop sign/anything, and put the clutch in, 
th
>> This doesn't happen all the time, but some times it happens for several 
miles 
>> in stop and go traffic.
>> This problem happened once in the spring (and thus was written off as 
>> personality anomally), and didn't happen again until recently.
>> Dealer started to give me the line about charges incurred to identify the 
idle 
>> problem, and how that wasn't covered under warranty. 
>Dear William, 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 31 lines)]
>P.S. Would you please post the address for the Web site of D90 Service 
>Bulletins? Thanks in advance.

------------------------------

Date: 29 Sep 95 15:59:07 EDT
From: "William L. Leacock" <75473.3572@compuserve.com>
Subject: FWH

Recently there was an enquiry regarding the plastic fixing band for Fairey free
wheel hubs, just came accross the fitting instructions which list the part as a
service item part No RTC 7136, cost in Oct 94 was 3.40 pounds sterling plus vat

 Regards  Bill Leacock   Limey in exile.

------------------------------

Subject: Re: Unstable idle in D90
From: skidmore@mail02.mitre.org (William E. Skidmore)
Date: Fri, 29 Sep 95 16:31:53 -0400

The Alldata page is posted in a follow-up message to the list.  Sorry I can't 
include it here, but with three apps open at the same time and working all 
three concurrently, I don't want to close one to open up my list!

>The 15k service cost you $450 !?
>Where are you located ?
I was at the time in the Wash DC area, and had taken it to Tischer, who's in 
Maryland.
>So how has it been other than that? 
>Where are you located ?
Let me explain it this way - The delaer asked how many miles this AM, I told 
him >38500!  As for the ergonomics wiith respect to driving for extended 
periods of time, I had previous training on a BMS R100RT motorcycle (Boxer 
joke!), so the sore posterior, wind blowing through my hair, rain and snow in 
my face (I have the Tickford top) is natural.
>Are you still glad you got it ?
I'd rather drive it than my wife's '71 MB 280SL!
>Good Luck
>-Doug
Yeah, thanks, just have to remember to approach those ditches at a 45 degree!

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Sep 1995 17:10:33 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Stuart H. Moore-Roanoke College" <SMOORE@ACC.ROANOKE.EDU>
Subject: weber

Hello all:
      A friend has a weber carb. conversion on his series III and
is having problems with hesitation and general rotten running. 
Does anyone out there have a book on the carb. that would have good
directions on how to properly tune it.  He rebuilt the carb. but
didn't have a book to tell him how to reset it.  I have access to
a fax machine if anyone can help let me know and I'll send a fax
number.  Thanks in advance!

                                                  Stuart Moore
                                                  Roanoke College
                                                  Salem, Virginia

                                                  '61 series II 88"
                                                  '59 MGA roadster
                                                  '68 MGB-GT
                                                  '74 MGB-Roadster
                                                  '74 MG Midget

------------------------------

From: "geoffrey.m.halaburt"
Date: 29 Sep 95 10:50:37 
Subject: Re: D90 owners please respond

Sorry it took a few days to respond.  I also got your mail sent to my 
CompuServe account.

I echo almost everything you've heard from my fellow D90 owners on the LRO 
list.  It's a fantastic vehicle that pretty much trounces anything this side of 
a Unimog for offroad capability and durability.  It's terrific fun to watch the 
reaction the vehicle gets around town.  Where I live, Defenders are rare but 
the roads are littered with Discos and RR's (whose owners, for the most part, 
have no clue that our vehicles are both from Solihul.

I've had mine since 8/94 and have no real complaints.  My D90 (white softtop) 
is my only car, but I pretty much use it only on weekends for errands and 
fun/trips, etc.  My commute is a weekly flight to NYC and/or the Larkspur ferry 
into San Francisco.

I've had pretty much the standard problems -- all taken care of by the dealer:  
Torn out zippers on the top (dealer swapped the original '94 Tickford top for a 
'95 Bestop with special LRNA approval), hood release cable (twice), heater and 
vent cables slipped, console latch slowly mis-adjusting, handbrake adjustment 
(three times).  The only common problems I haven't had are the loose tire 
carrier and the door/hinge alignment situation.

If I had it to do all over, there's no question I would.  I had debated soft 
vs. fiber hardtop and I'm glad I went soft -- the new aluminum hard top SW 
looks interesting, but I would avoid it if it shows up with the cheesy roll bar 
arrangement that the spring '95 prototypes had.  I should have passed on the 
A/C option -- don't need where I live when I can always take off the top (and 
leave it off for most of the summer).

-Geoff

------------------------------

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