Land Rover Owner Message Digest Contents

[ First Message Last | Table of Contents | <- Digest -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

Send Submissions Land-Rover-Owner@Land-Rover.Team.Net

Subject: New Lists  at Land-Rover.Team.Net
Date: Thu, 28 Sep 95 07:05:52 -0400
From: William Caloccia <caloccia@sw.stratus.com>

  rro                  Range Rover Owners (real time)                          
			(seems to have reached critical mass)

  uk-arc               Association of Rover Clubs (UK)                         
			(used to be for the national rallye)

  uk-arc-nr            Attending the next ARC National Rallye                  

As before:

The List

  land-rover-owner     LRO - Land Rover Owners world-wide (real-time)          
  	lro-digest     LRO mail in Digest form (<- this one!)                  
  	lro-digest-ltd LRO-Digest Limited (split into pieces)                  

Regional Lists

  au-lro               Austrailia & New Zealand LRO (real-time)                
  eu-lro               European LROs (real-time)                               
  uk-lro               UK & IE LROs (real-time)                                
  za-lro               South African LROs (real-time)                          

also note I've done a page of land-rover pages, now at

        http://www.senie.com/billc/lr/pages.html  

    Cheers,
        --bill  caloccia@Team.Net       http://www.senie.com/billc/

      1  3     dl OD  L           "Land Rover's first, because
      |--|--+  o  |   |            Land Rovers last."
      2  4  R  ul N   H           '72 Range Rover

------------------------------

From: Andrew Grafton <A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk>
Subject: Re : Max RPMs?
Date: Thu, 28 Sep 95 9:41:06 BST

> A question for the collective wisdom...  What would you say should be the 
 maximum normal operating RPM's for a 1959 2.25l Land Rover 4-cyl in a 109" 
> 2-door?  
> I think this is called "redline" here in the states, but I'm not sure.  I've 
 been (trying) to keep it at or below 3000, but occasionally the Rover (Go go 
> speed rover!) wants to go faster.  

For a petrol; 
The 'fall apart value' (i.e. the Rover certified 'Red Line') is 
somewhere over 5000rpm...  For a new engine.
I don't think you'll have any problems with the engine at 4K as
I know a lot of people who cruise between 60 and 65 in 4th,
but try and keep it lower if you can on an old engine?

For a diesel;
Rover reckon they fall apart at 4400, but I'd put my bets on 
about 500rpm lower than that!  We run our diesels at 3000 continuous
with no problems, so going a bit higher than that with a petrol
should be fine long-term.  
Flogging it we hit 3800 occasionally, with no nasty noises.

Just thoughts - I don't have actual figures to hand.

BTW, at 70 in 4th OD are you not doing a touch over 3000 rpm?

I'll hand over to someone who actually knows sonething now...

All the best,

Andy
A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk

------------------------------

From: Tom Stevenson <gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk>
Subject: Amigo mystery solved
Date: Thu, 28 Sep 1995 12:45:42 +0100 (BST)

I now know that an Amigo is the same as a Frontera; thanks for all the
messages. My only experience of the Frontera was two or three years ago
when we rescued one from a muddy section of Mastiles Lane near Malham.
We were alerted to his predicament (solo vehicle; 5 occupants) by a
revving engine and two passing ramblers. After we made the driver
replace all the stones he had removed from a nearby dyke, we winched him
out. Once back on firm ground, he muttered a thankyou and buggered off
into the distance at high speed, never to be seen again. This episode
has slightly coloured my view of Fronteras and their drivers ever since.
-- 
Tom Stevenson: gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk
University Marine Biological Station, Isle of Cumbrae, Scotland
Tel:(01475) 530581  Fax:(01475) 530601

------------------------------

From: Andrew Grafton <A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk>
Subject: Rear Spring Adjustment, SIII.
Date: Thu, 28 Sep 95 13:10:48 BST

> Are the rear springs on my series III adjustable? They are according to the
> Haynes manual(Chapter 13 Supplement). If so has anybody got any tips for
> doing this.

I read that, too, and came to the conclusion that it was a load of old
*&%#@*!$.  <how unusual for a Haynes manual?>

Methods I know of for adjusting LR cart springs;

1) New spring(s)
2) New bushes
3) Different length shackles
4) Remove a leaf or two (start at the bottom and work up)
5) Break a leaf or two

Anyone got any more?

If you alter the suspension it is probably a good idea to do it both sides
to keep the vehicle balance right (ha,ha,ha).  Certainly don't change the 
shackle length or number of leaves unevenly, because it may affect the
stopping...  Then again, if the springs are bad enough to want adjusting,
they probably won't be any *worse*.

Just my thoughts,

All the best,

Andy
A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk
Who's going to remove the bottom leaf from the front springs he bought
entitled "Optional Heavy Duty springs for use only on diesel vehicles 
fitted with hydraulic winches" or something similar...

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Sep 1995 15:04:37 +0200 (GMT+0200)
From: Andrew Birrell <pdandrew@iaccess.za>
Subject: Re: Re : Max RPMs?

How do I fit a rev counter to my 2.25 diesel SIIA so that I can tell what 
my revs are ?

On Thu, 28 Sep 1995, Andrew Grafton wrote:

> To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net
> > A question for the collective wisdom...  What would you say should be the 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 36 lines)]
> Andy
> A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Sep 95 08:51:10 EDT
From: (Tom Rowe) <trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu>
Subject: Re: Re : Max RPMs?

On Thu, 28 Sep 1995 15:04:37 +0200 (GMT+0200) Andrew Birrell asks:

>How do I fit a rev counter to my 2.25 diesel SIIA so that I can tell what 
>my revs are ?

There are several options. Alternator mounted (available only for some alternators), magnetic or optical counter on the crank pully, and magnetic flywheel tooth counter. Oh, there is also a unit that attaches to an injector pipe that counts the injecti
There's probably more I've forgotten about.
I'd suggest checking at a local diesel truck repair shop to see what's available in your area.

Tom Rowe
UW-Center for Dairy Research
Madison, WI                    | Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck
608-265-6194                  | in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Sep 95 08:51:27 -0700
From: "TeriAnn Wakeman"  <twakeman@apple.com>
Subject: Re: Max RPM's?

In message <199509280728.CAA22327@butler.uk.stratus.com> Roger Sinasohn writes:

> A question for the collective wisdom...  What would you say should be the 
> maximum normal operating RPM's for a 1959 2.25l Land Rover 4-cyl in a 109" 
; 2-door?  
> A question for the collective wisdom...  What would you say should be the 
; I think this is called "redline" here in the states, but I'm not sure.  I've 
> been (trying) to keep it at or below 3000, but occasionally the Rover (Go go 
; speed rover!) wants to go faster.  
> been (trying) to keep it at or below 3000, but occasionally the Rover (Go go 
; In 4th OD, this translates into about 70mph+ which I really shouldn't be 
> doing anyway, but sometimes I oversleep...  (And 280 *was* designed for 
; 90mph.)
> doing anyway, but sometimes I oversleep...  (And 280 *was* designed for 
; Thanks!

Roger,

While accelerating, I shift betweem 4000 and 4500 RPM

My Rover feels happy crusing in the 3200-3600 RPM range  I've driven all day on 
successive days there and the engine has been happy.  

If you go below 2500 RPM you start to go a little low on the torque curve and 
don't have power for sudden blinging acceleration or to maintain speed on much 
of an incline.  I don't let the revs fall below 2000 RPM on a grade before 
downshifting & thats because I'm lazy & trying to follow Jim's advice to keep it
in 4th as much as possible.  For speed attacking hills, I would downshift if I 
dropped below 2500 RPM.

I've had an MGB tach in my insturment panel for over ten years.

TeriAnn

Land Rover 109 2-1/4L Petrol....0 to 60 MPH same day*

*Assumes level or downhill and no strong headwinds.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Sep 1995 12:15:23 -0400 (EDT)
From: Karl Kurz <kkurz@acad.umm.maine.edu>
Subject: subscribe/unsubscribe

	I am unable to unsubscribe to lro-digest I thing because since I first 
subscribed my e-mail server has been replaced with a new one with a different
IP address. I would like to sort this out so that it is possible to unsub 
at times when I am abroad etc. My original address was 
kkurz@torrey.umm.maine.edu.     
	Could you be so kind as to unsubscribe me from LRO and then I 
will resubscribe with my new address.    

	TNX

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Sep 1995 12:30:44 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Francis J. Twarog" <ftwarog@moose.uvm.edu>
Subject: HELP!

Folks in the US - I need help!  I am looking for a 2 door Range Rover 
that is for sale - must be US legal...  Anyone willing to help me find 
one will not only be compensated financially, but maybe - just maybe - 
also get a case of some really tasty Vermont seasonal microbrews shipped 
directly to their refrigerator.  Thanks very much.

Frank Twarog
(802) 864 - 0936

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Sep 95 10:07:03 -0700
From: "TeriAnn Wakeman"  <twakeman@apple.com>
Subject: Re: HELP!

In message <199509281631.LAA23677@butler.uk.stratus.com> "Francis J. Twarog" 
writes:
 
> Folks in the US - I need help!  I am looking for a 2 door Range Rover 
> that is for sale - must be US legal...  Anyone willing to help me find 
; one will not only be compensated financially, but maybe - just maybe - 
> also get a case of some really tasty Vermont seasonal microbrews shipped 
> directly to their refrigerator.  Thanks very much.
; 
> Frank Twarog
> (802) 864 - 0936

A white Range Rover two door showed up at the recent Palo Alto All British Field
meet the Sunday after laborday.  The car looked good and was for sale.  I think 
they wanted US$15K.  Since I wasn't in the market, i didn't talk to the owners. 
Someone who went might have though.  I don't think they got any buyers at the 
meet.  I think the car is California registered & I think the owners live in the
SF bay area.

maybe someone else who wentto the palo Alto meet know the owners.  I am passing 
your message to the West coast list to try & qualify for some brew.

TeriAnn
Ales prefered, logers used to clean drains

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Sep 1995 10:24:26 -0700
From: jjbpears@ix.netcom.com (Jeremy Bartlett)
Subject: 2.25l headers - worth it?

Does anyone have any experience or comments on the value of installing 
headers (Clifford) on a 2.25 l LR petrol engine?

Thanks for the input.

Cheers,

Jeremy

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Sep 95 12:29:12 EDT
From: (Tom Rowe) <trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu>
Subject: Re: HELP!

On Thu, 28 Sep 95 10:07:03 -0700 TeriAnn
 wrote:
snip
>>Ales prefered, logers used to clean drains

Logers cut trees, plumbers clean drains. I should know, I've done both.

Tom Rowe
UW-Center for Dairy Research
Madison, WI                    | Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck
608-265-6194                  | in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Sep 95 13:05:18 EDT
From: (Tom Rowe) <trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu>
Subject: Clifford headers

On Thu, 28 Sep 1995 10:24:26 -0700 Jeremy Bartlett wrote:

>Does anyone have any experience or comments on the value of installing 
>headers (Clifford) on a 2.25 l LR petrol engine?

I have them on mine.
IMO I wouldn't bother if I were you. The only reason I have them (aside from the false idea I'd get more power, back when I first bought them for my stock '74 swb) is that I have a 2bbl Weber with the custom manifold and I couldn't get a long term reli
I don't really think they are worth the money. I didn't see a noticable improvement in my '74's performance after I installed them.
Plus they lower your ground clearance a little, they put out alot of heat unless you wrap them, which makes them rust out unless you get them coated which costs about $150-$170. So, with the cost of the headers add about another $200-$250 for coating, 

Tom Rowe
UW-Center for Dairy Research
Madison, WI                    | Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck
608-265-6194                  | in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date: 28 Sep 95 10:26:18 EDT
Subject: It's all a question of timing...

As usual, I'm confused.

In the manuals I have, the timing called for with a 2.25L
petrol 4 is 3BTDC for regular, 6BTDC for premium fuel.
But the engine I have is a Series III, which I've been told
needs to be set to 6ATDC.

HOwever, I've changed the distributor to a real one and 
removed the retard(ed) one...

I've got him presently timed at 3BTDC at idle with the
vacuum advance disconnected, running regular no-lead.

Is this optimim? He goes well, but (being the greedy sod that I am),
if I can get better performance I'd like it.

   aj"Pedantic sods R' Us"r

------------------------------

From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date: 28 Sep 95 10:26:18 EDT
Subject: It's all a question of timing...

As usual, I'm confused.

In the manuals I have, the timing called for with a 2.25L
petrol 4 is 3BTDC for regular, 6BTDC for premium fuel.
But the engine I have is a Series III, which I've been told
needs to be set to 6ATDC.

HOwever, I've changed the distributor to a real one and 
removed the retard(ed) one...

I've got him presently timed at 3BTDC at idle with the
vacuum advance disconnected, running regular no-lead.

Is this optimim? He goes well, but (being the greedy sod that I am),
if I can get better performance I'd like it.

   aj"Pedantic sods R' Us"r

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Sep 1995 13:57:45 -0600
From: Phil Turgoose <turgoosp@cadvision.com>
Subject: footwell rot

Hello.

I am looking for anyone who has suggestions re the repair of footwell rot in 
Series III 88. I have had my landy 74 for 20 yrs now and unfortunately a good
portion of that was in eastern Canadian winter salt so consequently, I can
now see the road between my feet! I have brazed in patches here and there over 
the years but they are now too far gone to patch. 

Thanks in advance,
Phil

------------------------------

From: Andy Dingley <dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Frame Oiling
Date: Thu, 28 Sep 1995 19:44:56 GMT

 burns@lint.cisco.com (Russell burns) wrote:

> I take it that river in Yorkshire, means proper disposal. I tend to enjoy
> canoeing, and oil is tough to get off the canoe.

Yes, you see in Yorkshire they don't have any water left in their
rivers, so the water company has sold them all off for hazardous waste
disposal ditches.

(Brit Joke warning)

The head of Yorkshire Water (or "The Great Unwashed", as he is known)
has even appeared on TV to explain how he has helped to save water by
not taking a bath in the last month.

Typhoid, Cholera, Dysentery -- Collect the set !

------------------------------

From: Andy Dingley <dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Frame Oiling
Date: Thu, 28 Sep 1995 19:44:56 GMT

 burns@lint.cisco.com (Russell burns) wrote:

> I take it that river in Yorkshire, means proper disposal. I tend to enjoy
> canoeing, and oil is tough to get off the canoe.

Yes, you see in Yorkshire they don't have any water left in their
rivers, so the water company has sold them all off for hazardous waste
disposal ditches.

(Brit Joke warning)

The head of Yorkshire Water (or "The Great Unwashed", as he is known)
has even appeared on TV to explain how he has helped to save water by
not taking a bath in the last month.

Typhoid, Cholera, Dysentery -- Collect the set !

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Sep 1995 13:20:57 +0100
From: cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine)
Subject: Re: It's all a question of timing...

 Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com> writes:

>As usual, I'm confused.

 Me too!  Time to dig out the Haynes manual.

>In the manuals I have, the timing called for with a 2.25L
 petrol 4 is 3BTDC for regular, 6BTDC for premium fuel.

 That's correct.  More specifically, for *static* timing

 7:1 head    3 degrees BTDC, 83 octane fuel
             6 degrees BTDC, 90 octane fuel
 8:1 head    3 degrees ATDC, 85 octane fuel
             TDC using 90 octane fuel

>But the engine I have is a Series III, which I've been told
 needs to be set to 6ATDC.

 Told by whom??  There is a 6 degree ATDC mark at the flywheel
 pulley for *active* strobe lamp timing at 800 RPM.  The manual
 makes no correction for the fuel octane however.

>I've got him presently timed at 3BTDC at idle with the
 vacuum advance disconnected, running regular no-lead.

 That's probably correct for *static* timing, try 6 degrees after.

 Michael Carradine, Architect                          Ph/Fax 510-988-0900
 Carradine Studios, PO Box 494, Walnut Creek, CA 94597 USA    <cs@crl.com>
 _________________________________________________________________________
 Mercedes-Benz Unimog 4x4 WWW page at:  http://www.crl.com/~cs/unimog.html

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Sep 95 15:47:07 EDT
From: (Tom Rowe) <trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu>
Subject: Re: footwell rot

On Thu, 28 Sep 1995 13:57:45 -0600 Phil Turgoose wrote:

>Hello.
>I am looking for anyone who has suggestions re the repair of footwell rot in 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
>now see the road between my feet! I have brazed in patches here and there over 
>the years but they are now too far gone to patch. 

RN here in the States, as well as others I'm sure, sells repalcement footwells. I haven't used them, but apparently you cut out the old & weld in the new.
Have fun,

Tom Rowe
UW-Center for Dairy Research
Madison, WI                    | Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck
608-265-6194                  | in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Sep 95 16:44:15 EDT
From: jib@big.att.com (Jan Ben)
Subject: Newbie found his 1st LR !!!

Hello, FELLOW  LR owners!!!

I got it!  I drove it around the block!! I drove it to the beach behind
my house and I locked the diff!!!  He (he is a he, I think) is very cool!!!
I see the beginnings of a beautiful friendship.

He is a 109 hardtop, first born in '63, same as me (carma, er, truckma -
sorry, I am too excited to censor my puns!).  Recently restored with
many improvements, new interior, breaks, paint, roofrack, bullbar.

I already tried to fit my windsurfing and surf gear in it (this was my
original excuse for getting him).  No better that my Bronco, but who cares
now? It's too late for reason.

Thank you all who responded with advice and information on the vehicles.

Super-special thanks to Andy, who gave me lots of good advice and calmed
me in the last few days when the boy was stuck in unfriendly customs.
Anyway, he is here, he is mine, and we're gonna have fun !!

PS. Anyone wanna buy a FS Bronco? 240 hp, forged pistons, 10000 lb winch,
blah blah blah... yea, right!  Wrong crowd!

Jan Ben 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Sep 1995 14:42:26 -0700
From: matts@cacilj.caciasl.com (Matt Snyder)
Subject: RR mass flow sensor

I have a question related to the fuel/air topic.  My "flap type" mass flow 
sensor has a fair amount of rust-colored grunge in the plenum, on the intake 
side of the flap.  Since the shop manual has a procedure for cleaning the 
plenum, and since there's an item for this cleaning in the maintenance 
schedule, can I assume this is normal?

-Matt

------------------------------

From: Andy Dingley <dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Bushes (Was: Various Questions)
Date: Thu, 28 Sep 1995 19:45:17 GMT

On Mon, 25 Sep 1995, John Y. Liu wrote:

>  And should I use the regular black 
> rubber bushes or look for those polyurethane bushes that are brightly 
> colored like popsicle sticks?  

Use polyurethane. They last longer, control better and are easier to
fit. For road cars, or for better comfort in a solely tarmac 4x4, stay
with rubber bushes.

There are two sorts of bush; one part (like cotton reels) and two part
(like 2 top hats). IMHO, 2 part are the best. They're easier to fit
and they're more securely located when fitted. One part bushes must be
pressed right through the hole, so they're harder to fit and their
locating flange must be smaller.

Some bush kits come with new metalwork for the rear radius arm (on
coilsprings), others re-use the existing washers. The all-new ones are
better, as it avoids the need to cut the triangular mounting plate out
of the centre of the old bush.

There are two sizes of bush for Rangies, depending on age. They're not
interchangable, as it depends on the radius arm shank diameter. You
may find however that your vehicle has acquired some odd parts over
the years (I have a new panhard rod on mine) - a supplier that offers
individual bushes is more convenient than one that only sells full
kits.

Bush kits rarely include the self-leveller bushes. Supposedly these
don't wear out (often !) but they are available separately.

> Finally, besides penetrating oil, a hacksaw,
> heat, and a big hammer, are there any magic tricks for extracting and
> inserting bushings? 

You can extract bushes with a press, but you'll also need an
accurately turned mandrel. The bush consists of a steel central tube,
a rubber bush, then an outer steel tube. Pressing only works on the
outer tube - if you press on the rubber you'll just shear the bush in
half.

My technique is to burn the rubber bushes out with a blowtorch. I then
put a hacksaw inside the bush and saw two grooves into the outer
sleeve, about 1/2" apart. Some chisel work then peels back the strip
between these grooves. When you've peeled about half of it back, then
the bush is usually loose enough to fall out. Don't chisel outside the
two grooves, as it doesn't work and just wastes effort.

Poly bushes are easily fitted. Insert both bushes into the hole by
hand, then use a vice or G clamp to press the steel inner tube place.
Provided the inner tube has been deburred on the edges, it should go
in quite easily without lubrication. If you bushes are tight, use a
smear of washing up liquid to lubricate them.

Refitting Rangie front radius arms is awkward, as they're big, heavy
and you have 3 holes to line up. You should have the body _firmly_
supported on axle stands, an easily adjustable jack under the axle,
and an assistant with a bag of assorted crowbars. It's easiest if you
drop both arms and panhard rod, do the bushes, then re-install the
driver's side first, the passenger's side, then finally the panhard
rod. On the nut for the driver's side rear axle bolt, be careful you
don't jam the spanner into place - this is by far the most awkward
bolt in the whole process, which is why I suggest replacing it first.

Adjust the radius arm inner nuts until they're equally compressed.

According to the manual, the rear arms need to have one shock absorber
dropped first. I've done mine with both shockers in place, but it is a
tight fit. They're easier than the fronts though.

After you've changed the bushes, check the tracking.

--
Andy Dingley                          dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk                                          

If all it takes is an infinite number of monkeys with typewriters, 
how come AOL haven't written any Shakespeare yet ?

------------------------------

Date: 28 Sep 95 16:55:30 EDT
From: "John P. Casteel" <70472.557@compuserve.com>
Subject: RE:  David Brown RR Problem

Recently I posted a message concerning errant idling on my '90 RR.  After
looking at all of the expensive repairs I noticed that a hose on top of my
engine was disconnected.  I reconnected the hose and the problem is gone.  

I can only hope that this is your problem.  Check all vacum hoses for leaks or
cracking.  In my case a hose concerning the PCV system had worked loose.  The
symptom was  occasional low idling.  I would think that this could also cause
the hesitation that you speak of.

P.S.  lest you think that all of my luck is good I had to replace a CV joint and
spindle ball (?) last month.  But this is a great vehicle!!

Cheers,

jc
Atlanta, GA
'90 RR 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Sep 1995 20:30:58 -0500
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Mid-Atlantic Land Rover Rally

Howdy, y'all.  Coming to you *live* (well, almost) from Penlan Farm, site of 
the Mid-Atlantic Land Rover Rally.  We have *78* vehicles pre-registered!  
Heaven knows how many drive-ins we'll have.

Spent the day getting the rally site in order.  Tents are up, porta-potties 
were delivered and I'll fetch the kegs tomorrow morning.  We decided we 
needed one last obstacle...so we had two three-axle dump truck loads of 
*very* fine sand delivered.  The stuff is like ball bearings (heh heh) so 
you folks competing in the Aluminium Man Triathlon (TM) better have those 
quick shifts down pat.

Right now, it is the calm before the storm...the arrival of the hordes, that 
is.  The weather (uncharacteristicly) promises to be *fantastic*.  Warm days 
and cool nights. If you're into star-gazing, this place has "awesome dark" - 
no lights are visible from the field, and it will be the dark of the moon.
      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |       Rover Owners' Association of Virginia         |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 804-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    804-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 804-622-7056     |
      *-----------------------------------------------------*

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Sep 1995 18:31:25 -0700
From: "Michael J. Scanlan" <mjscanlan@loop.com>
Subject: unsubscribe lro-digest

unsubscribe lro-digest
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Michael J. Scanlan <mjscanlan@loop.com>                              
13428 Maxella Ave., #347
Marina del Rey, CA  90292
Pager (310) 790-7140
Control Operator ARS WA0EPW/6
Land-Rover 1967 109 Series IIA Station Wagon

------------------------------

Date: 28 Sep 95 22:20:31 EDT
From: Robert Dennis <73363.427@compuserve.com>
Subject: Reply to: Re: It's all a question of tim

> That's correct.  More specifically, for *static* timing

 7:1 head    3 degrees BTDC, 83 octane fuel
             6 degrees BTDC, 90 octane fuel
 8:1 head    3 degrees ATDC, 85 octane fuel
             TDC using 90 octane fuel

 Told by whom? There is a 6 degree ATDC mark at the flywheel
 pulley for *active* strobe lamp timing at 800 RPM.  The manual
 makes no correction for the fuel octane however. <<

 _________________________________________________________________

 PMJI but what is the difference between Static and Active timing??

 I assume that I have been doing active timing since I am using a strobe lamp,
but what is Static and how or why is it done?

 Rob Dennis
 Atlanta, GA USA
 73363.427@Compuserve.com
 28-Sep-1995

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Sep 1995 11:02:52 +0800 (WST)
From: TONY YATES  <tonyy@waalpha.wa.BoM.GOV.AU>
Subject: movie sighting

Yet another - was in the video library yesterday, saw a movie called 
Laser Mission, with Brandon Lee, on the back cover was a neat looking SWB 
II (III), couldn't see the front.

==========================================================
                                      ()  (  )      ()
Tony Yates                           (  ) (   )    (  )
Bureau of Meteorology               (    )(    ) (      )
Port Hedland                       (       )   )(        )
Western Australia                 (          ) ) --------
                                   ------------
ph:  (091) 401 350                 \\\**\\**\
fax: (091) 401 100                   \***\*\
                                       \\*\
email: A.Yates@bom.gov.au                \\

==========================================================

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Sep 1995 21:02:44 +0100
From: cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine)
Subject: Re: Reply to: Re: It's all a question of tim

 Robert Dennis <73363.427@compuserve.com> writes:

> PMJI but what is the difference between Static and Active timing??

 Geeez, kids these days! :)

 Actually, reviewing the topic of timimg helps me sort out the logic to
 get a handle on the issues involved, including fuel octane.  Just recently
 I am confronted with timing a 24V 6-cylinder Mercedes Unimog engine that
 backfires occassionally, a sign of being too advanced or maybe using low
 octane fuel.  The engine in this ex-NATO vehicle has radio isolated ignition
 cables precluding the use of the inductive lead of the strobe lamp, and it
 is too heavy to turn by hand.  But that's another story...
 
> I assume that I have been doing active timing since I am using a strobe lamp,
>but what is Static and how or why is it done?

 I'm not sure if *active* timing is the correct terminology.  I am using
 the word in opposition to *static* timing.  The former is running the engine
 monitoring the RPM and using a pickup on #1 spark plug lead to a strobe
 lamp focused on the crankcase pulley marks.  Static timing is with the
 engine *not* running but the ignition on.  Using a light bulb test lamp with
 two wire leads having alligator clips, attach one clip to the signal lead
 comimg out of the distributor side to the coil, and other clip to ground.
 With the rotor pointing towards the #1 cable, and turning the engine from
 BTDC towards TDC, the light should turn on at the specified degree angle,
 6 degrees BTDC to TDC.  Adjustments are made by turning the distributor to
 achieve the correct setting.  Turning the engine is easier with a Volkswagen
 engine, however Haynes suggests to set the engine crankcase pulley ON the
 mark and then only turning the distributor until the light comes on and
 fastening it without moving it.

 Strobes are nice in that you see wandering or jumpy timing and misses, and
 also you can check the timing at various RPM's.  Of course the vehicle needs
 to be otherwise completely tuned before doing the timimg, or it needs to be
 tuned in iterations.  For instance, the dwell should be perfect at various
 RPMs before resolving the timing, and the carburetor mixtrure and idle speed
 can be adjusted monitoring the change in RPMs.
 
 Regards,

 Michael Carradine, Architect                          Ph/Fax 510-988-0900
 Carradine Studios, PO Box 494, Walnut Creek, CA 94597 USA    <cs@crl.com>
 _________________________________________________________________________
 Mercedes-Benz Unimog 4x4 WWW page at:  http://www.crl.com/~cs/unimog.html

------------------------------

Date: 28 Sep 95 22:21:12 EDT
From: "Stephen O'Hearn" <72700.3262@compuserve.com>
Subject: LR Goodies For Sale

Long time since you guys have heard from me (been out helping
Uncle Sam). Since I no longer have my Defender (long story, a
painful one to boot) I've decided that some, but not all (you
see another one is already on the way), of my collection of
Land Rover stuff would probably do someone else more good than
me...

-------------------------------------------------------------

Here's what I've got:

Defender 90 Surrey top, new		$150
Defender 90 soft top carry bag, new	$ 50
Defender 90 driver's floor mat, new	$ 50
Defender 90 Workshop Manual w/ binder	$ 50
Defender 90 belts + oil and air filters	$ 50 complete set
Hella 3000 fog lights, 2 w/ grilles	$ 50
Hella Vision headlights, 2		$ 25
Tire chains, 265x75R16 or similar	$ 25 each, 2 pairs
Land Rover Genuine Parts banner, 7'x4'	$ 50
Land Rover Triple-C signs and decals	$ 25 for 2 signs
					     and all decals

Defender parts are for U.S. spec truck and are genuine LR

Parts are located in So. Cal. but shipping can be arranged.

-------------------------------------------------------------

Contact:  Stephen,  72700.3262@compuserve.com

-------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: RICKCRIDER@aol.com
Date: Fri, 29 Sep 1995 02:45:42 -0400
Subject: Re: It's all a question of timing...

In regard to question of timing,  so many degrees either before or after TDC:

Well......I wasn't confused till I read Alan Richers and Michael Caradines
postings.....    Now I'm not even sure which manual I used.....I have both
the Haynes version and the factory version.    I usually look at both then
choose the easiest or at least the easiest to understand.

How does one decipher which head one has......7.1 or 8.1  ratio.    I have
both a Slla and a Slll.......are the heads not the same?    Is the timing
proceedure different?
I timed the ' 73  Slll with a strobe light.   Runs fine.....though I've
always thought it was a bit sluggish.    I think it's running a bit rich on
fuel mixture (dry black soot at tail pipe) but never blamed that on timing.
 (Has the Rochester carb conversion)......Should I consider retiming?

Boy.....just when I think I've got things just right.  Whew!  <g>

Rick Crider   KD4FXA
Monroe  NC
66  Slla  109"     (Hugo)  .....and,  alas,  still for sale to good home.
73  Slll    88"      (Jesse)......my personal pet....and too nice for its
purpose.
88  Range  Rover........the daily driver

------------------------------

  END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST 
 Input:  messages 30 lines 1234 [forwarded 90 whitespace 327]
 Output: lines 1027 [content 585  forwarded 55 (cut  35) whitespace 311]

	
    Forward
	


	
    
          
	



Photos & text Copyright 1990-2011
	Bill Caloccia, All rights reserved. 

Digest Messages Copyright 1990-2011 by the original poster or/and
	Bill Caloccia,
	All rights reserved.