[ First Message Last | Table of Contents | <- Digest -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
msg | Sender | lines | Subject |
1 | Andrew Grafton [A.J.Graf | 29 | Exhaust downpipe |
2 | Tom Stevenson [gbfv08@ud | 13 | Challenge |
3 | Mr Ian Stuart [Ian.Stuar | 35 | "Man survives fall in LandRover" |
4 | (Tom Rowe) [trowe@ae.age | 24 | Re: Finding a PTO winch (was Military 24 Volt) |
5 | sreddock@VNET.IBM.COM | 39 | 12V conversion & winches |
6 | azw@aber.ac.uk (Andy Woo | 17 | Re: Frame Oiling |
7 | azw@aber.ac.uk (Andy Woo | 7 | Wavering speedo |
8 | "R. Pierce Reid" [70004. | 32 | D90 Owners Respond |
9 | "R. Pierce Reid" [70004. | 16 | Galvinizer |
10 | Frederick_O._Ellsworth@b | 13 | Popping out of gear |
11 | Anthony Verriello [verri | 54 | D90's Pros/Cons |
12 | burns@lint.cisco.com (Ru | 13 | Re: D90 owners please respond |
13 | Andrew Birrell [pdandrew | 16 | Re: Popping out of gear |
14 | Harincar@mooregs.com (Ti | 32 | More on Insurance |
15 | burns@lint.cisco.com (Ru | 15 | Re: Frame Oiling |
16 | Guydell@aol.com | 28 | RR problems resolved except one.^MRE: RR prblms resol except 1 |
17 | Rick Snyder [snyderr@hpa | 26 | IIA Servo Question |
18 | Jeff Gauvin [jeffg@miner | 63 | RE: D90 Owners... |
19 | Andrew Grafton [A.J.Graf | 24 | Re: Frame Oiling |
20 | Mike Rooth [M.J.Rooth@lu | 17 | Re: Frame Oiling |
21 | jory@figment.mit.edu (Jo | 109 | If OS's were beers... (fwd) |
22 | John Brabyn [brabyn@skiv | 46 | Re: Various Questions |
23 | DEBROWN@SRP.GOV | 52 | RR problems resolved except one. RE: RR prblms resol except 1 |
24 | John Brabyn [brabyn@skiv | 26 | Re: RR problems resolved except one. RE: RR prblms resol except 1 |
25 | Wood Bill [billwood@inch | 33 | [not specified] |
26 | johng@iafrica.com | 30 | LH footwell Heat |
27 | DEBROWN@SRP.GOV | 46 | Re: RR problem... |
28 | shibumi@cisco.com (Kento | 21 | Re: RR problems resolved except one. RE: RR prblms resol except 1 |
29 | Trefor Delve [delve1t@ne | 22 | RE: Wierd Generator Stuff |
30 | DEBROWN@SRP.GOV | 25 | '87 RR problem, o2 sensor maybe? |
31 | ross@secant.com (Ross Le | 30 | Thanks to all |
32 | John Brabyn [brabyn@skiv | 26 | Re: '87 RR problem, o2 sensor maybe? |
33 | nickfull@pavilion.co.uk | 22 | Re: Fuel tank pressure |
34 | "Stefan R. Jacob" [10004 | 34 | Re: Misc. RR problems resolved except one. |
35 | "Stefan R. Jacob" [10004 | 37 | Re: RR FAQ / Buyer's Guide? |
36 | Dixon Kenner [dkenner@em | 21 | Re: RR FAQ / Buyer's Guide? |
37 | John Brabyn [brabyn@skiv | 20 | Re: Misc. RR problems resolved except one. |
38 | "TeriAnn Wakeman" [twak | 20 | 88 blank sides wanted |
39 | John Brabyn [brabyn@skiv | 73 | Re: RR FAQ / Buyer's Guide? |
40 | "Stefan R. Jacob" [10004 | 19 | Re: Misc. RR problems resolved except one. |
41 | rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca | 15 | [not specified] |
42 | rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca | 17 | [not specified] |
43 | Russell Burns [burns@cis | 37 | Re: '87 RR problem, o2 sensor maybe? |
44 | kbossard@mgdestmx01.erin | 20 | Isuzu Diesel Engines |
45 | jjbpears@ix.netcom.com ( | 29 | 109 Shocks - Rancho Update |
46 | "Walter C. Swain" [wcswa | 20 | Re: LH footwell Heat |
47 | TONY YATES [tonyy@waalp | 25 | Re: Isuzu Diesel Engines |
48 | TONY YATES [tonyy@waalp | 31 | RE: D90 Owners... |
49 | "Walter C. Swain" [wcswa | 32 | Re: Please stop |
From: Andrew Grafton <A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk> Subject: Exhaust downpipe Date: Tue, 26 Sep 95 10:18:25 BST Our 2286 diesel (with the downward-facing manifold outlet) exhaust down pipe is rattling around. This is because the lip fitted to the top of the pipe, which is clamped between the manifold and the triangular thingy on the exhaust, has worn and is now too small. The downpipe's in good condition apart from that and I'd rather not chuck it if I can avoid doing so. Any super-hints out there for solving the problem? Tried clamping a piece of coathanger wire in there along with everything else, but it was too fiddly and kept sticking out the side. What I'd like to find is some kind of asbestos bootlace with wire reinforcement... Anyone know where in the UK I can get some? In case it is of interest, the exhaust is on a 109" not-safari and pumps the smoke out of the left hand rear wheel well. All the best, Andy A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk ------------------------------[ <- Message 2 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950927 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Tom Stevenson <gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk> Subject: Challenge Date: Tue, 26 Sep 1995 10:36:27 +0100 (BST) What is an Amigo? Is it an Isuzu Trooper made by someone else, or is it another version of the Vauxhall Frontera, which I understand is a rebadged Japanese vehicle? -- Tom Stevenson: gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk University Marine Biological Station, Isle of Cumbrae, Scotland Tel:(01475) 530581 Fax:(01475) 530601 ------------------------------[ <- Message 3 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950927 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Mr Ian Stuart <Ian.Stuart@ed.ac.uk> Date: Tue, 26 Sep 1995 12:05:39 +0000 Subject: "Man survives fall in LandRover" Scottish Daily Record, 25/9/95 Lucky driver Eugene Maxwell reckons he owes his life to his sturdy Land-Rover. The vehicle was knocked off a bridge yesterday into a river 40 feet below by an articulated lorry - and then the truck crashed down on top of it. But the 38-year-old amazingly escaped with only a cut finger, a sore back and bruises. [snip] The crash happened on Deanston Bridge, Perthshire. At home in Brig O'Turk, Perthshire, Eugene said: "I owe my life to Land-Rover." "'If I had been driving anything else I don't think I would be here now." "The Land-Rover came crashing down into the river, and then I heard the lorry coming down as well. I thought I was a goner." "But the Land-Rover just took it." Eugene's Land Rover is a White Defender 90, reg looks like G383SPL The picture in the paper shows the D90 drivers side down with the rear wheels of the artic.'s cab resting on the rear axel of the D90 and lying on it's passengers side. PS - Eugene's two dogs also escaped uninjured :-) ----** Ian Stuart (Computing Officer) +44 31 650 6205 Royal (Dick) School of Veterinary Studies, Edinburgh University. <http://www.vet.ed.ac.uk/> or <http://www.tardis.ed.ac.uk/~kiz/> ------------------------------[ <- Message 4 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950927 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 26 Sep 95 06:46:42 EDT From: (Tom Rowe) <trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu> Subject: Re: Finding a PTO winch (was Military 24 Volt) On Mon, 25 Sep 1995 16:03:21 -0600 (MDT) Rob wrote: >Some more questions: Snip >4) Are PTO winches that fit a series LR easily found? I have a forward >pointing PTO on the transfer case. Or is it just easier to get an >electric one? I would have to upgrade my generator (an >old 22 amp one) and convert to neg. ground, I expect. Rob, The most common PTO in the US, the Koenig, is no longer produced as such. I believe it is still made in the guise of a hydraulic. If you have the PTO output unit on your tranny, you should be able to convert one to PTO. I can give you some details if y Otherwise, you'll just have to keep your eyes & ears open for a used one. They come up fairly frequently it seems. Two here on the list in the past few months. If you don't think you'll be using it much, an electric one probably will suit. And it certainly will be cheaper than a Koenig would be new, and likely cheaper than a used Koenig. Tom Rowe UW-Center for Dairy Research Madison, WI | Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck 608-265-6194 | in places even more inaccessible. ------------------------------[ <- Message 5 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950927 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: sreddock@VNET.IBM.COM Date: Tue, 26 Sep 95 12:30:15 BST Subject: 12V conversion & winches Rob, if you are going to convert a 24V to a 12V I would expect lots of very odd wiring problems to surface as the lower voltage just won't have the potential to bridge the rusty joints. There are very mixed opinions on the value of the conversion. A lot of people recommend it as the 24V plugs, cap & whatever are very expensive as they are screened. It is possible to throw away these bits and replace them with the 12V variety, but be sure to run with 12V if you use a 12V coil. I have heard about split systems which sound like a good idea as you keep the alternator which will run a small housing estate and good lights but loose the expense/bother of the ignition system. 24/12V convertors are available for the system, but if your note was suggesting fiddling with the same alternator to change the output voltage I have never heard of it being done. New 12V alternators are quite cheap. Winches: most pto winches are available are the capstain variety. These have limited use for self recovery as they rely on somebody keeping the rope taut whilst moving to keep up with the vehicle. If you can't drive over it can you be sure of being able to walk on it? One slip and the whole thing could run backwards at a high rate (of course you did stand far enough away that you wouldn't get run over when you fell!). Electric winches are available in 24V as well (that housing estate generator is useful), otherwise 12V electrics need to be in good shape, preferably with a high output alternator and a spare battery on a split charge system. Running with an electric winch and a 22 amp dynamo is likely to get you working up a sweat with the cranking handle! Positive earth winches are going to be hard to source. Steve Reddock ( no .sig and I don't work for IBM either!) ------------------------------[ <- Message 6 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950927 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: azw@aber.ac.uk (Andy Woodward) Subject: Re: Frame Oiling Date: Tue, 26 Sep 1995 13:21:55 UNDEFINED >>any of the spray. This only good for the outside of the frame. I >>still use regular used motor oil and gear oil (heated) to spray >>inside the frame and lots of it. Nononononono!!!!!! Why do you think you change the engine oil? Cos it gets all acidic. In my young naive days I thought how good it would be to rustproof my tools with old motor oil. (Yorkshiremen HATE throwing owt away). They all went very rusty.......... Old gear oil is fine. Old engine oil shuld be thrown in the nearest river and not allowed anywhere near your pride and joy! ------------------------------[ <- Message 7 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950927 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: azw@aber.ac.uk (Andy Woodward) Subject: Wavering speedo Date: Tue, 26 Sep 1995 13:24:56 UNDEFINED Mine wavered like hell for months before the cable broke......... ------------------------------[ <- Message 8 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950927 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: 26 Sep 95 09:00:57 EDT From: "R. Pierce Reid" <70004.4011@compuserve.com> Subject: D90 Owners Respond Ross: I bought a D90 to replace a series of Series LR's because I have a long commute (and because I really, really wanted one!). Mine has no rattles (except my teeth on speed bumps) and is built like a brick outhouse. The Mud Terrain's are a bit noisy and I will likely replace them with All-Terrains when they wear out. If cost is an issue... buy used. I bought mine for $26K with 800 (yes, 800) miles on it and every possible option installed, except hardtop. They are regularly advertised with <4K miles for 27K miles in AutoWeek and a call around to dealers will net you a good used one, probably in your choice of colors. A plane ticket to a dealer elsewhere would be well worth saving 6K and taxes on a new one. It is a bit of a beast on the road, but compared to a Series LR, it's a comfy, practical daily commuter. But I must admit to also having a large sedan that I can drive when business dictates and I would recommend to people that they think about a Disco unless they really want to live day-to-day with a noisy purpose-built off-roader. What clinched it for me... convertible top. There is nothing like a D90 with the roof and door tops off tooling down a dirt road in search of a little path into the boonies on a cool fall day. Nothing at all.... Cheers, R. P. Reid ------------------------------[ <- Message 9 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950927 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: 26 Sep 95 09:12:33 EDT From: "R. Pierce Reid" <70004.4011@compuserve.com> Subject: Galvinizer Howdy: Who can recommend a good galvinizer to re-galvanize a whole mess of Series One parts. Prefer in the Northeast, but will ship anywhere for a proper job. Also, does anyone have a recommendation on a pneumatic riveter (or similar) to duplicate the domed rivet heads on a SI? Thanks, R. P . Reid ------------------------------[ <- Message 10 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950927 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Frederick_O._Ellsworth@bcsmac.org (Frederick O. Ellsworth) Subject: Popping out of gear Date: 26 Sep 1995 14:35:55 GMT What would cause a IIA tranny to pop out of 4th gear at freeway speeds. On a 250 mile trip yesterday it happened 4 times. Has never done it before. The Fairey overdrive was engaged, speed about 65mph, running 85-140 gear oil. Thanks in advance for any ideas, Fred - sent via an evaluation copy of BulkRate (unregistered). ------------------------------[ <- Message 11 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950927 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Anthony Verriello <verriello_t@jpmorgan.com> Date: Tue, 26 Sep 1995 10:20:45 -0400 Subject: D90's Pros/Cons I have a '94 D90 that I bought about 12 months ago...here are my experiences to date: Minuses: -I use more gas than some small countries -I cant list all the noises (Never mind the tire carrier, I am convinced mine is haunted) -Trips over six hours are torture Pluses: -Nothing can stop this thing, you soon learn the following things: 1) three feet is not alot of snow (I havent shoveled my driveway since I got mine) 2) In emergencies, creative detours over almost any road obstacle are possible (I have had to traverse small walls, trees, lakes that used to be roads and other nasties) 3) saving other make 4x4s, from themselves, on the trail, is reason enough to buy one -I still get the what the hell looks from people that have never seen one -Its wash and wear (run it hard through the dirt topless and just hose it out, even WITH the leather seats) -Its just plain fun -You get to associate with really cool poeple like us Conclussions -I will never sell my D90 and am sorry I had bought a 94 Wrangler before I realized the order of the food chain -The truck has personallity...not drawbacks. Its all part of the LR experience Advice If you plan on driving on-road most of the time (and I dont advise that if you can avoid it) I would suggest looking at the Disco...however the hardtop D90 is alot tighter and quieter and you can always take the top off and run topless. Also if this is to be your only vehicle get the full soft-top or the hard top. Weddings and the like in a topless truck are not fun, just ask my girlfriend... Tony V. verriello_anthony@jpmorgan.com +-+--+-@ |_|_/|__\__ | _ |' |_ |} (Dagwood...named for his voracious appetite, =(_)=+==(_)' petrol not sandwiches) '94 NAS black D90 (happiness is pulling a jeep out of a hole) ------------------------------[ <- Message 12 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950927 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 26 Sep 1995 07:25:16 -0700 From: burns@lint.cisco.com (Russell burns) Subject: Re: D90 owners please respond >To: ross@secant.com (Ross Leidy) >From: burns@lint.cisco.com (Russell burns) [ truncated by lro-digester (was 76 lines)] >>year. I'm embarrased to say that I haven't made the purchase yet. I do >>have quite a few dealer brochures and magazine articles that have drool >>marks all over. :) Russ Burns________________________________________________________________ CiscoSystems ------------------------------[ <- Message 13 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950927 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 26 Sep 1995 16:37:56 +0200 (GMT+0200) From: Andrew Birrell <pdandrew@iaccess.za> Subject: Re: Popping out of gear Possibly worn syncro unit (3rd/4th has an integral syncro unit), ar possibly worn teeth on 4th. A friend had a similar problem after a gearbox rebuild, when the 3rd/4th gear unit was put in the wrong way round. On 26 Sep 1995, Frederick O. Ellsworth wrote: > To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net > What would cause a IIA tranny to pop out of 4th gear at freeway speeds. On a [ truncated by lro-digester (was 12 lines)] > Fred > - sent via an evaluation copy of BulkRate (unregistered). ------------------------------[ <- Message 14 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950927 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Harincar@mooregs.com (Tim Harincar) Date: Tue, 26 Sep 1995 09:41:46 -0700 Subject: More on Insurance Just wanted to add some specs on my insurance rate here in Minnesota. This is for my '66 IIa 88. Total premium is $424.80 per year from Allstate, and includes the following: - Urban residency (2.5 miles from downtown Minneapolis) - Multi-car discount - No unmarried drivers under 25 - Max 7500 miles/year, pleasure use only (i.e. no daily commuting) - Good driver rate - Advantage discount (because we have our homeowners throught Allstate) - Economy car discount (? - I think thats because its 4 cyl. - hehehe) - Policy is for actual cash value, not replacement value Base liability - $196 Personal Injury - $142 Uninsured Motorist - $11.60 Underinsured Motorist - $11.20 Collision - $50 Comprehensive - $14.00 Tim --- tim harincar harincar@mooregs.com '66 IIa 88 SW ------------------------------[ <- Message 15 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950927 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 26 Sep 1995 07:48:49 -0700 From: burns@lint.cisco.com (Russell burns) Subject: Re: Frame Oiling I take it that river in Yorkshire, means proper disposal. I tend to enjoy canoeing, and oil is tough to get off the canoe. >Old gear oil is fine. Old engine oil shuld be thrown in the nearest river and >not allowed anywhere near your pride and joy! [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)] >Old gear oil is fine. Old engine oil shuld be thrown in the nearest river and >not allowed anywhere near your pride and joy! Russ Burns________________________________________________________________ CiscoSystems ------------------------------[ <- Message 16 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950927 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Guydell@aol.com Date: Tue, 26 Sep 1995 11:51:43 -0400 Subject: RR problems resolved except one.^MRE: RR prblms resol except 1 RE: David Brown RR problem: I have a similar problem in my 90 RR where the engine cuts and hesitates especially during acceleration onto the highway. Sometimes this also happens at constant acceleration. The problem is erratic and unpredictable and always corrects itself within minutes. For example, I drove 200 miles on the freeway over the weekend without incident, but then the problem reappeared the next day. Thus far I have run several bottles of Techron through the fuel system to clean the injectors, changed the plugs, plug wires, and cap & rotor, all to no avail. Also, replaced the fuel filter and the fuel pump pressure checks out OK. My problem is very unpredictable and happens infrequently enough that I have no clue where to look next, and I have no idea how to reproduce the symptom with the hood up. The local Land Rover dealer of course recommends an upwards of $650 tune-up (excuse me!). Someone on the list previously suggested the throttle plate and throttle position sensor? Anyone out there who has solved a similar problem? Guy della-Cioppa Guy dell@aol.com 90 RR County (Beluga Black) 50 Plymouth P-19 Fastback 66 VW Camper ------------------------------[ <- Message 17 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950927 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Rick Snyder <snyderr@hpanvs.an.hp.com> Subject: IIA Servo Question Date: Tue, 26 Sep 95 11:55:18 EDT I'm now in the process of restoring my IIA 88" which has been sitting (sigh) since my oldest child was born eight years ago! When last driven I was never too sure if the brake servo was doing it's thing and now, after eight years, I don't have a way to test it in the vehicle. I've pulled it out (pedal and all) and it looks pretty ragged - the master cylinder was stuck in it preety good but I was able to pry it off and look at all the accumulated rust in between it and the servo. These things are pretty expensive so I have a couple of questions - Is there a way to test the servo on the bench? If the sevro housing is intact (no rust-through) how likely is it that it needs to be replaced? Rick Snyder Chester N.H. '71 SIIA ------------------------------[ <- Message 18 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950927 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Jeff Gauvin <jeffg@minerva.ncrmicro.ncr.com> Subject: RE: D90 Owners... Date: Tue, 26 Sep 95 9:58:04 MDT David Rosenbaum <rosenbau@u.washington.edu> says: I have owned my '94 D90 since Dec. 1993, and *love* it. Had my '94 D90 hardtop since April '95 and love mine too! [clip] Most of my time in the D90 is spent on pavement, in the suburbs and city of Seattle (commuting to work to *pay* for the thing!) and I enjoy being able to take the top off and windows out and sitting high enough to look out over the traffic -- to the mountains where I wish I was heading. Ditto. I commute ~20 miles (R/T) a day and don't find it stressfull at all. The hardtop does help cut down on noise; you can almost hear the radio at highway speeds! [clip] Mine had a rattle coming from the rear tire carrier, which I found was due to a loose lug-nut: easy fix. Several months ago, somebody posted a more serious problem with their rear tire carrier (leaking grease maybe?) And Land Rovers DO have personalities: which *may* include unique squeeks and/or leaks. My tire carrier rattles a bit too, and the "quiet" hardtop allows me hear it even better :-( I once found that two (!) of the lower mounting bolts had come loose, but tightening them did not make the rattle go away. I'll check my lug nuts, but I don't think that'll fix it - the sound comes from loose fitting hinges. D90's do have personalities. I noticed a rather strange phenomenon on my last road trip: the interior is cooler with the windows closed! When you open a window it apparently creates a suction force that draws hot air from the bottom the the vehicle through the seat boxes and into the cab. The seat boxes and seats get extremely hot (this can't be good for the battery [or seat leather & foam] can it?). Close the windows and everything cools down; seat boxes become cold to the touch! Weird! So, if you live in a hot climate get the optional A/C. I don't have it but sometimes wish I did. I've considered taking my sliding windows to a shop to have a couple more slots machined into the rails, allowing more than one locking position. Anyone done this? Other brain storms: have custom sliding side windows intalled in the hardtop; install a sun roof (may be impossible to seal due to corrugated roof). I'll probably go for real functionality first, like ARB lockers and a winch. -- Jeffrey J. Gauvin email: jeff.gauvin@symbios.com Symbios Logic Inc. Voice: 719-573-3563 1635 Aeroplaza Dr. FAX: 719-573-3824 Colorado Springs, CO 80916 ------------------------------[ <- Message 19 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950927 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Andrew Grafton <A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk> Subject: Re: Frame Oiling Date: Tue, 26 Sep 95 17:07:51 BST > I take it that river in Yorkshire, means proper disposal. I tend to enjoy > canoeing, and oil is tough to get off the canoe. I think I have this one solved. There's this chap here whose car burns so much oil that everyone else gives him their old engine oil. It gets used twice, and ends up as small droplets protecting the paintwork of cars that follow him along the road. What could be better?! <joke> He likes LR oil 'cause it is thick and stops some of the strange engine noises. It's an Austin Maestro and is absolutely, definitely, 100% certain to fail the MOT this year. All the best, Andy A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk ------------------------------[ <- Message 20 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950927 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk> Subject: Re: Frame Oiling Date: Tue, 26 Sep 95 17:02:20 BST > To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net [ truncated by lro-digester (was 18 lines)] > >not allowed anywhere near your pride and joy! > Russ Burns________________________________________________________________ > CiscoSystems That's the whole point! According to Yorkshire Water,there *arent* any rivers in Yorkshire.Not now,anyway. Cheers Mike Rooth ------------------------------[ <- Message 21 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950927 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: jory@figment.mit.edu (Jory Bell) Subject: If OS's were beers... (fwd) Date: Tue, 26 Sep 1995 12:48:31 -0400 (EDT) Forwarded message: >From mlbarrow@nog.netf.org Tue Sep 26 09:12:01 1995 Date: Tue, 26 Sep 1995 09:10:27 -0400 (EDT) From: "Michael L. Barrow" <mlbarrow@nog.netf.org> Subject: If OS's were beers... Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII This is sorta stupid, but kinda funny.... -- mlb ---------- Forwarded message ---------- If Operating Systems Were Beers... DOS Beer: Requires you to use your own can opener, and requires you to read the directions carefully before opening the can. Originally only came in an 8-oz. can, but now comes in a 16-oz. can. However, the can is divided into 8 compartments of 2 oz. each, which have to be accessed separately. Soon to be discontinued, although a lot of people are going to keep drinking it after it's no longer available. Mac Beer: At first, came only a 16-oz. can, but now comes in a 32-oz. can. Considered by many to be a "light" beer. All the cans look identical. When you take one from the fridge, it opens itself. The ingredients list is not on the can. If you call to ask about the ingredients, you are told that "you don't need to know." A notice on the side reminds you to drag your empties to the trashcan. Windows 3.1 Beer: The world's most popular. Comes in a 16-oz. can that looks a lot like Mac Beer's. Requires that you already own a DOS Beer. Claims that it allows you to drink several DOS Beers simultaneously, but in reality you can only drink a few of them, very slowly, especially slowly if you are drinking the Windows Beer at the same time. Sometimes, for apparently no reason, a can of Windows Beer will explode when you open it. OS/2 Beer: Comes in a 32-oz can. Does allow you to drink several DOS Beers simultaneously. Allows you to drink Windows 3.1 Beer simultaneously too, but somewhat slower. Advertises that its cans won't explode when you open them, even if you shake them up. You never really see anyone drinking OS/2 Beer, but the manufacturer (International Beer Manufacturing) claims that 9 million six-packs have been sold. Windows 95 Beer: You can't buy it yet, but a lot of people have taste-tested it and claim it's wonderful. The can looks a lot like Mac Beer's can, but tastes more like Windows 3.1 Beer. It comes in 32-oz. cans, but when you look inside, the cans only have 16 oz. of beer in them. Most people will probably keep drinking Windows 3.1 Beer until their friends try Windows 95 Beer and say they like it. The ingredients list, when you look at the small print, has some of the same ingredients that come in DOS beer, even though the manufacturer claims that this is an entirely new brew. Windows NT Beer: Comes in 32-oz. cans, but you can only buy it by the truckload. This causes most people to have to go out and buy bigger refrigerators. The can looks just like Windows 3.1 Beer's, but the company promises to change the can to look just like Windows 95 Beer's - after Windows 95 beer starts shipping. Touted as an "industrial strength" beer, and suggested only for use in bars. Unix Beer: Comes in several different brands, in cans ranging from 8 oz. to 64 oz. Drinkers of Unix Beer display fierce brand loyalty, even though they claim that all the different brands taste almost identical. Sometimes the pop-tops break off when you try to open them, so you have to have your own can opener around for those occasions, in which case you either need a complete set of instructions, or a friend who has been drinking Unix Beer for several years. AmigaDOS Beer: The company has gone out of business, but their recipe has been picked up by some weird German company, so now this beer will be an import. This beer never really sold very well because the original manufacturer didn't understand marketing. Like Unix Beer, AmigaDOS Beer fans are an extremely loyal and loud group. It originally came in a 16-oz. can, but now comes in 32-oz. cans too. When this can was originally introduced, it appeared flashy and colorful, but the design hasn't changed much over the years, so it appears dated now. Critics of this beer claim that it is only meant for watching TV anyway. VMS Beer: Requires minimal user interaction, except for popping the top and sipping. However cans have been known on occasion to explode, or contain extremely un-beer-like contents. Best drunk in high pressure development environments. When you call the manufacturer for the list of ingredients, you're told that is proprietary and referred to an unknown listing in the manuals published by the FDA. Rumors are that this was once listed in the Physicians' Desk Reference as a tranquilizer, but no one can claim to have actually seen it. * end * ------------------------------[ <- Message 22 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950927 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 26 Sep 1995 10:03:58 -0700 (PDT) From: John Brabyn <brabyn@skivs.ski.org> Subject: Re: Various Questions On Mon, 25 Sep 1995, John Y. Liu wrote: > Here's the questions. I can't raise the truck more than an inch (preferably > not at all), or it won't fit in my carport with a roof rack. Will new > springs raise a Rover? Yes if the old ones have sagged. I put new stock springs on the rear and it raised the vehicle about an inch then settled so the net gain was probably half that. I used 2 left hand springs (slightly longer than the right hand ones) which corrected the list to starboard seen on most North American Range Rovers of 87-90. Otherwise, I've heard of folks putting Disco springs in the rear (stiffer so make the rear higher) and putting the old rear RR springs on the front. Talk to Mike at Rovers North about this. Finally, "heavy duty" springs can be had, as can lifted ones, but they might all be bad for your garage. Can anyone suggest an economical source for new road > springs (for delivery to Los Angeles)? I got some from Atlantic British at not too outrageous a price And should I use the regular black > rubber bushes or look for those polyurethane bushes that are brightly > colored like popsicle sticks? If you are more interested in flexibility, preserving the soft ride, and better off roading -- rather than sports car handling, use the original rubber bushes. The popsicle ones claim all sorts of wonderful advantages in (on-pavement) handling etc due to the fact they are stiffer. In my opinion, stiffness is bad except on the racetrack or establishing record slalom speeds. Popsicles also claim to last longer, which is probably true. Finally, besides penetrating oil, a hacksaw, > heat, and a big hammer, are there any magic tricks for extracting and > inserting bushings? A hydraulic shop press is a good thing if you feel like springing for one. You'll soon find a hammer or squeezing in the vise doesn't hack it. Good luck and cheers John Brabyn 89RR ------------------------------[ <- Message 23 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950927 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 26 Sep 95 11:02:38 MST From: DEBROWN@SRP.GOV Subject: RR problems resolved except one. RE: RR prblms resol except 1 FROM: David Brown Internet: debrown@srp.gov Computer Graphics Specialist * Mapping Services & Engr Graphics PAB219 (602)236-3544 - Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486 SUBJECT: RR problems resolved except one. RE: RR prblms resol except 1 ========================================================================= >From: Guydell@aol.com >I have a similar problem in my 90 RR where the engine cuts and hesitates >especially during acceleration onto the highway. Sometimes this also happens <<< Band reduction snippage.... >>> >sensor? Anyone out there who has solved a similar problem? ======================================================================== I'm determined to locate the source of this problem... almost at *any* cost. I will post my findings to the LRO list when I get it fixed. I too have new plugs, cap, rotor, throttle position sensor (potentiometer?), fuel filter and the fuel pump pressure checks out OK. Mine seems to be a continual problem, and does not correct itself within minutes. Should be easy to duplicate to the dealer with a test ride. Oh yeah, I tried several bottles of Techron as well. (My 1st thought.) The service manager at the dealer suggested that it could be the ignition amplifier, distributor, throttle air meter, ECU, or even the alternator. I've spoken with 2 other "LR specialty" repair facilities, and they have both referred me to the dealer for the troubleshooting, since they can literally "plug and play" (replace one thing to see if it fixes it, then another, and another, etc...) whereas the independent shop would have to purchase each component, and most likely couldn't return them once installed. Today I'm having the headliner replaced, so maybe Tomorrow.... Oh! And speaking of the alternator, I noticed that at night, the "charge" light glows very dimly at idle, but when you rev the engine it goes out. Is this "normal" ("normal" that is, for Joe Lucas.)? Lights on or off didn't seem to make any difference. P.S. Any takers on the "Isuzu Amigo" challenge? I wish I were closer, I'd take them on with the RR or maybe even better, the 88! It'd be fun to see a 25 year old rig run circles around him! #=======# Never doubt that a small group of individuals |__|__|__\___ can change the world... indeed, it's the only | _| | |_ |} thing that ever has. "(_)""""""(_)" -Margaret Mead ------------------------------[ <- Message 24 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950927 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 26 Sep 1995 11:44:13 -0700 (PDT) From: John Brabyn <brabyn@skivs.ski.org> Subject: Re: RR problems resolved except one. RE: RR prblms resol except 1 On Tue, 26 Sep 1995 DEBROWN@SRP.GOV wrote: > I'm determined to locate the source of this problem... almost at *any* cost. > I will post my findings to the LRO list when I get it fixed. I too have new [ truncated by lro-digester (was 12 lines)] > The service manager at the dealer suggested that it could be the ignition > amplifier, distributor, throttle air meter, ECU, or even the alternator. This sounds really worrying, and I wish one of us could suggest an instan solution. It really sounds like something is wrong with the computerized injection system, consisting of the components you mention. (I can't see how it could be the alternator though???). Does the problem occur when you put your foot on the gas only, or is it a steady state thing as well? perhaps an exact specification of the symptoms would help (though you probably posted them before and I forgot, but it looks like it would be worth a second round!) Cheers John Brabyn 89RR ------------------------------[ <- Message 25 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950927 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Subject: Please stop Date: Tue, 26 Sep 95 14:54:12 -0500 From: Wood Bill <billwood@inch.com> -- [ From: Wood Bill * EMC.Ver #2.5.03 ] -- I've made over a dozen requests to several addresses to remove my name from the Land Rover owners mailing list. If anyone knows how to stop this, please let me know. I've received 50 new messages since my last request a few hours ago. I am leaving town for two weeks very soon and am worried that I will lose valuable real e-mail because my server will get overloaded and start chucking mail out. I had no idea how much mail this would generate when I subscribed. I've tried everything but let me try again. unsubscribe land-rover-owner Bill Wood <billwood@inch.com> unsubscribe land-rover-owner billwood@inch.com unsubscribe <land-rover-owner> <billwood@inch.com> unsubscribe (land-rover-owner) unsubscribe land-rover-owner unsubscribe land-rover-owner Bill Wood billwood@inch.com unsubscribe land-rover-owner Land Rover Owner unsubscribe (land-rover-owner) unsubscribe (land-rover-owner Land Rover Owner) ------------------------------[ <- Message 26 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950927 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: johng@iafrica.com Date: Tue, 26 Sep 1995 20:56:46 +0000 Subject: LH footwell Heat Hi Has anyone any suggestions on reducing the heat generated by the exaust pipe in the LH footwell of a SIIA. I have spoke to the local landie guru and his reply was "Place a tarpaulin in the footwell bacause that is the way it is with heat in a landie". I don't accept that answer and would like to here from someone who has solved this problem, or at least reduced the problem. Best wishes John G __________________________________________________________ John N Groome PO Box 12628 Benoryn 1504 South Africa Tel : +27 11 973-3403 Fax : +27 11 973-3283 Cell : +27 82 442-6281 email: johng@iafrica.com ___________________________________________________________ ------------------------------[ <- Message 27 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950927 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 26 Sep 95 12:06:07 MST From: DEBROWN@SRP.GOV Subject: Re: RR problem... FROM: David Brown Internet: debrown@srp.gov Computer Graphics Specialist * Mapping Services & Engr Graphics PAB219 (602)236-3544 - Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486 SUBJECT: Re: RR problem... From: Dave Brown <debrown@srp.gov> > >> I'm determined to locate the source of this problem... almost at *any* >> cost. I will post my findings to the LRO list when I get it fixed. I too [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)] >> continual problem, and does not correct itself within minutes. Should be >> easy to duplicate to the dealer with a test ride. Oh yeah, I tried >> Oh yeah, I tried several bottles of Techron as well. (My 1st thought.) >> several bottles of Techron as well. (My 1st thought.) >> The service manager at the dealer suggested that it could be the ignition >> amplifier, distributor, throttle air meter, ECU, or even the alternator. >From: John Brabyn <brabyn@skivs.ski.org> >This sounds really worrying, and I wish one of us could suggest an instan >solution. It really sounds like something is wrong with the computerized [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)] >probably posted them before and I forgot, but it looks like it would be >worth a second round!) > >Cheers > >John Brabyn >89RR Here goes: "normal", light throttle pressure driving around town seems normal. Medium to heavy acceleration will usually, but not always cause jerky stuttering, like the key is being turned off and on. Full throttle (floored) will work normally. Also, at speeds over around 50MPH and below around 82MPH I get the same results. Trying to maintain a speed on a flat, level road will minimize the effect, but it is still noticeable. Deceleration is normal. Thanks, #=======# Never doubt that a small group of individuals |__|__|__\___ can change the world... indeed, it's the only | _| | |_ |} thing that ever has. "(_)""""""(_)" -Margaret Mead ------------------------------[ <- Message 28 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950927 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 26 Sep 1995 12:40:07 -0700 From: shibumi@cisco.com (Kenton A. Hoover) Subject: Re: RR problems resolved except one. RE: RR prblms resol except 1 >To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net >FROM: David Brown Internet: debrown@srp.gov [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)] >Is this "normal" ("normal" that is, for Joe Lucas.)? Lights on or off didn't >seem to make any difference. Your fan belt is slipping on the alternator. I had a problem with my 87 RR eating fan belts left and right. It used to eat them every 500 miles like clockwork. It stopped after 3000 miles worth. Have them check the tension and alignment. | Kenton A. Hoover Staff Technologist | shibumi@cisco.com | | Engineering Computer Services | | [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)] | 10 or more days never recover. Ever." | | -- PC Week, Febraury 6, 1995, page 129 | ------------------------------[ <- Message 29 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950927 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Trefor Delve <delve1t@nectech.co.uk> Subject: RE: Wierd Generator Stuff Date: Tue, 26 Sep 95 20:50:00 GMT Tim, On the 21st of September, you posted a query regarding the charging warning light on your 66 IIa. I have seen no reply so I thought I would answer. I'm not to sure if by Generator you mean dynamo or alternator. If it is an alternator, the charging light remains on when a diode in the rectifier pack has blown (or more correctly has gone short circuit). If however you have a dynamo on the IIa, I don't know the answer. In the UK, you used to be able to buy a service kit for Lucas alternators which included a rectifier pack. But it is now cheaper to buy an exchange unit instead. Trefor. tdelve@nectech.co.uk ------------------------------[ <- Message 30 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950927 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 26 Sep 95 13:21:21 MST From: DEBROWN@SRP.GOV Subject: '87 RR problem, o2 sensor maybe? FROM: David Brown Internet: debrown@srp.gov Computer Graphics Specialist * Mapping Services & Engr Graphics PAB219 (602)236-3544 - Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486 SUBJECT: '87 RR problem, o2 sensor maybe? Kenton suggested an o2 sensor may be the problem with the '87 RR stuttering. I called around (big surprise, none of the "locals" had it) and the dealer wants $226.98 *each* (there's two of them!) Then I called "my friends" at British Pacific, and they're getting some aftermarket (Lucas) units in, but not for a few weeks. Price will be around half the dealer's price. He said "around the $80 range, about half the dealer's price." Did I really say "almost *any* price?" Anyone know how to test an o2 sensor? Dave (short on oxygen?) Brown #=======# Never doubt that a small group of individuals |__|__|__\___ can change the world... indeed, it's the only | _| | |_ |} thing that ever has. "(_)""""""(_)" -Margaret Mead ------------------------------[ <- Message 31 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950927 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: ross@secant.com (Ross Leidy) Date: Tue, 26 Sep 95 16:28:33 0500 Subject: Thanks to all Thanks to everyone who responded with their opinions of the D90 and Land Rovers in general. After reading all your comments, I now feel that if I passed-up buying one I'd end up losing all self-respect. I neglected to mention in my post, that I currently own an 86 Alfa Romeo Spider. I bought it nearly 10 years ago, and now that it's time for something new, I can't imagine buying something without a soft-top. I am used to driving a vehicle where the stereo is just a device to boost the noise level, so many of the D90 idiosyncracies (features) should be familiar to me. Be that as it may, there's nothing like a top-down drive on a sunny day. (I thoroughly enjoyed the D90 test drive; top off, of course.) Thanks again for all your comments. Ross +----------------------------+ | Ross Leidy | | Senior Software Engineer | | Secant Technologies, Inc. | | Beachwood, Ohio | | ross@secant.com | +----------------------------+ ------------------------------[ <- Message 32 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950927 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 26 Sep 1995 14:33:19 -0700 (PDT) From: John Brabyn <brabyn@skivs.ski.org> Subject: Re: '87 RR problem, o2 sensor maybe? On Tue, 26 Sep 1995 DEBROWN@SRP.GOV wrote: > SUBJECT: '87 RR problem, o2 sensor maybe? > Kenton suggested an o2 sensor may be the problem with the '87 RR stuttering. [ truncated by lro-digester (was 11 lines)] > "almost *any* price?" > Anyone know how to test an o2 sensor? Normally when the oxygen sensor goes the EFI light comes on, but no doubt there's a way for it to fail without triggering the light!! I had one renewed recently and the total cost including diagnosis and installation was about $250 at the dealer. I think the test indicated in the manual is just a resistance test, but I've read in other books about looking at the voltage on it while the engine is running -- it should cycle up and down. Cheers John ------------------------------[ <- Message 33 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950927 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 26 Sep 1995 22:59:25 +0100 (BST) From: nickfull@pavilion.co.uk (Mr N J Fuller) Subject: Re: Fuel tank pressure Hi fellow LRO's Have just found a rather strange fault on my 110 TD CSW and would appreciate any help in solving it. Following a couple of short trips recently I noticed a diesel spillage originating from the fuel filler cap. The fuel cap , filler neck and associated fittings appear in good condition with no obvious signs of damage , the fuel level was about a quarter full. When the fuel cap was taken off a fair bit of pressure was released from the tank. Checked out my workshop manuals which show that there is not a vent on the tank ,only fuel out and fuel return lines . Next I checked that none of the injectors was dead by slackening the fuel line to each of them with the engine running , all working ok. Fuel filter is clean with no signs of water in the fuel sedimentor , don't know what to check next ! Thanx in advance Nick ------------------------------[ <- Message 34 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950927 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: 26 Sep 95 17:59:08 EDT From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com> Subject: Re: Misc. RR problems resolved except one. > 15.5 MPG) there seems to be a remaining (or new) problem. At speeds of over > 50 MPH it surges very badly. This didn't start until the return trip, and ... > Anyone else have this? Or have any suggestions? (Again, replaced fuel pump, > water temp senser, throttle potentiometer (sp?), fuel filter.) Let's see... I notice you haven't metioned the air flow sensor (the 'box' with the black plastic cap and the thick cable on it just behind the air filter). The 'flap' inside the sensor can be obstructed by dust/crud and 'hang' at certain positions, and the effect can be exactly the 'surge' you describe. Picture this: You accelerate by more or less gradually depressing the pedal, thereby opening the throttle flap and at the same time turning the throttle potentiometer. The potentiometer gives signals to the ECU to deliver more 'juice' and accelerate firing and injection order. The increased vacuum sucks in more air, the flap in the air flow sensor opens and... suddenly hangs, thus limiting the air flow. This in turn leads to the vacuum controled timing advance being retarded, so at that moment you have an over-rich mixture combined with retarded ignition timing resulting in power lag and zero-acceleration. As you continue depressing the pedal, vacuum increases until the hanging flap finally breaks free and flings wide open, air gushes in, the timing abruptly jumps way in advance, and... vrooom, off you go! - Then again it could be something entirely different, like a nervous twitch in the foot... ;-) Oh yes, if you do decide to clean/flush the air flow sensor, *do not* use lightly inflammable solvent! The result can be a terrific backfire on next startup, ripping apart the sensor (don't ask... #-( ). Stefan <Stefan R. Jacob, 100043.2400@CompuServe.com> ------------------------------[ <- Message 35 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950927 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: 26 Sep 95 17:59:00 EDT From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com> Subject: Re: RR FAQ / Buyer's Guide? > local Mercedes dealer) but I was wondering if anybody out there has put > together a buying guide for used Rangies or maybe a list of the known > trouble spots and their associated fixes ... (John Brabyn:) > Sounds like it's time for a RR FAQ, doesn't it? (Dixon:) > 1. How do you tell them apart? (various years) Good question. Though Dixon would seem predestined to compile such a FAQ, I'd gamble that hell freezes over and palms sway at Lake Ontario before he'd get seriously involved with Range Rovers, of all things. Then again, miracles do happen... sometimes... WRT known trouble spots, have a good look and ear on the transmission/ gearbox. Both boxes (main and T-case) should have sufficient and clean oil of the correct type in them, shouldn't leak excessively, not have too much slack ('banging' when taking foot off gas), and not produce any grinding noise (a slight 'whine' is normal). Check out this: Run the engine in neutral and listen closely to the gearbox. Depress clutch and listen if sound/noise changes, i.e. if the gears run more silent. Slowly release clutch (always in neutral) and pay attention whether a grinding, scraping noise comes on and stays. If it *does*, then the layshaft bearings are on their way to destruction. If you intend to do any serious offroading or heavy towing with your prospective vehicle, don't purchase a car with those symptoms as the gearbox won't last very long. (YMMV as usual) This check obviously doesn't apply to an automatic. Stefan <Stefan R. Jacob, 100043.2400@CompuServe.com> ------------------------------[ <- Message 36 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950927 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 26 Sep 1995 18:20:59 -0400 (EDT) From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.emr.ca> Subject: Re: RR FAQ / Buyer's Guide? On 26 Sep 1995, Stefan R. Jacob wrote: > Though Dixon would seem predestined to compile such a FAQ, I'd gamble that > hell freezes over and palms sway at Lake Ontario before he'd get seriously > involved with Range Rovers, of all things. Then again, miracles do happen... > sometimes... I can be bribed... A nice early 70's two door appearing in my laneway next to the Mini, 109, & Saab might just send the interloper down the road... :-) Of course, we would have to, ahem, test the Range Rover first to see if it lives up to its august billing... <grin> Rgds, PS. Eurolink? ------------------------------[ <- Message 37 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950927 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 26 Sep 1995 15:59:37 -0700 (PDT) From: John Brabyn <brabyn@skivs.ski.org> Subject: Re: Misc. RR problems resolved except one. On 26 Sep 1995, Stefan R. Jacob wrote: > filter). The 'flap' inside the sensor can be obstructed by dust/crud and > 'hang' at certain positions, and the effect can be exactly the 'surge' you > describe. Sounds like a good theory -- but is there actually a flap inside the air flow sensor?? I thought it was called a "Hot Wire" mass flow sensor and had no moving parts. I am most likely wrong, though, as I've not had mine apart!! Cheers John Brabyn 89RR ------------------------------[ <- Message 38 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950927 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 26 Sep 95 16:38:16 -0700 From: "TeriAnn Wakeman" <twakeman@apple.com> Subject: 88 blank sides wanted I'm looking for a used pair of windowless utility sides from an 88 hardtop for a project I'm working on. I would like for the sides to be in excellent physical condition. The rear corner or back of the sides can be in poor shape. The rear windows can be missing. They can be in any colour(s). I only plan to use the front 2/3rds of each side. Does anyone have a pair they are willing to ship to me (or I can pick up if they are within 500 miles of the San Francisco Bay area)? TeriAnn twakeman@apple.com With not-very-secret project 2-Doormobile ------------------------------[ <- Message 39 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950927 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 26 Sep 1995 17:03:38 -0700 (PDT) From: John Brabyn <brabyn@skivs.ski.org> Subject: Re: RR FAQ / Buyer's Guide? On Mon, 25 Sep 1995, Dixon Kenner wrote: (regarding Range Rovers) > 1. How do you tell them apart? (various years) > 2. What were the different configurations and options? [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)] > 2. What were the different configurations and options? > 3. What do you look for when you buy one? (rust etc) Dixon -- good to see your interest in Range Rovers is intensifying, and you're finally being weaned off those other models!! (Seriously -- thanks for your support of the FAQ idea). As far as how to tell them apart, I can contribute the following about the US spec models anyway -- "How to tell them apart" 1987 & 1988 models are distinguished externally from all other years by the exhaust outlet being turned out to the (left) side at the tailpipe. Internally, have old style door trim, 3.5 engine and gear driven transfer case with manual diff lock 1989 and all later have tailpipe turned down and airdam with more holes, and if you peep inside you'll notice the new style of door trim came in. 89 had old style (thin) plastic rocker trim, and half way through 89 the exterior door hinges disappeared. Internally -- 3.9 engine and chain driven transfer case with automatic (viscous) locking diff. Also during 1989 County model introduced with large amounts of burlwood trim. Range Rover wins Four Wheeler of the Year award by a landslide margin. 1990 -- New deeper plastic rocker trim, otherwise similar external appearance. Internally -- antilock brakes added. Regular and County models continue. 1990/91 limited "Great Divide" model produced similar to 1990 County but with American walnut trim instead of burl, external logos and one-piece bumper/brushbar. 1991 -- Gas filler flap moved upward and rearward (due to increased tank capacity) is only outward difference; from behind the swaybars can be seen on "regular" and County models. Hunter model introduced (500 produced only) which had none (also had cloth trim and no airdam). Internally -- minor differences such as "improved" EFI sensors. 1992 -- Glass sunroof replaces old style metal one. Land Rover logo appears on tailgate. 2 models: regular (similar to Hunter but with airdam and leather) and County (beaucoup wood trim and sway bars). 1993 -- County LWB introduced (108" wheelbase with electronic air suspension and 4.2 litre engine); outer appearance 8 inches rear door. Coil sprung 100" wheelbase model continued as County with 3.9 engine. 1994 -- County LWB continues as main model. Dash layout refurbished w/airbags. Short run of regular 100 inch County produced with air suspension and old style dash w/out airbags. 1995 --County LWB continues for a while before being replaced by 4.0 SE with new body shape. Short wheelbase (100 inch) model returns as County Classic with County LWB style dash, air suspension, 3.9 engine, and County Classic logo on tailgate. Maybe these are oversimplified and some details could be wrong, but it's a start. Can someone put it on an FAQ??? Cheers John Brabyn 89RR ------------------------------[ <- Message 40 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950927 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: 26 Sep 95 21:27:46 EDT From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com> Subject: Re: Misc. RR problems resolved except one. > Sounds like a good theory -- but is there actually a flap inside the air > flow sensor?? I thought it was called a "Hot Wire" mass flow sensor and Depends... the 'hot wire' type sensor was first used in late '88 models. Yours being a '89 model, it *theoretically* should have one, and my theory would be obsolete in your case. You needn't take the sensor apart, just remove the hose connecting it to the air filter and look inside. Poke your finger in and see if there's a flap you can move backwards. If not, then my observations won't help you. Another thing that could hang, though, is the distributor base plate. But I'd be very reluctant to fiddle around with an Efi distr. Stefan <Stefan R. Jacob, 100043.2400@CompuServe.com> ------------------------------[ <- Message 41 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950927 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Subject: LAND ROVER TOY NEWS From: rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (Robin Craig) Date: Tue, 26 Sep 95 20:07:37 -0500 The September and October issues of MODEL COLLECTOR out of the UK have stuff on Land Rovers. bfn Robin -- Robin Craig, rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca FourFold Symmetry, Ottawa, Ont. | Ottawa Valley Land Rovers ------------------------------[ <- Message 42 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950927 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Subject: LAND ROVER STAMP NEWS From: rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (Robin Craig) Date: Tue, 26 Sep 95 20:08:46 -0500 Will be selling sets of Land Rover stamps soon, am just arranging them. Will post a description and price and let people bid on them, first replies not being the ones accepted but the highest after closeout date. Rgds Robin Craig -- Robin Craig, rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca FourFold Symmetry, Ottawa, Ont. | Ottawa Valley Land Rovers ------------------------------[ <- Message 43 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950927 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Russell Burns <burns@cisco.com> Subject: Re: '87 RR problem, o2 sensor maybe? Date: Tue, 26 Sep 95 18:45:28 PDT It seems that Range rovers do not have Ox sensors, they have Lambda sensors now the scary part Lambda: An electrial neutral subatomic particle in the baryon family(any relation to the royal family) having a mass of 2,183 times that of an electron and having a mean lifetime of 2.58*10E-10 Does this mean that uncle lucas designed this sucker to last less than a second,or is he trying to measure something that lasts less (lot less) than a second? If the second is true, then why bother ??? Sorry, on to the question. it seems that the lambda sensor has two parts, a heating element, and a sensor The heating element should have a resistance of 2.65 to 3.35 ohms The heater coils also should have 12 V on them the sensor part should fluctuate between 0.50V and 1.00V Now the best part, IF they pass the above specs, and the problem still exist, recheck with lucas diagnostic equipment. I suppose uncle lucas's magic tester will create the problem so it can be fixed The manual has some drawings that show how to measure the above, If you want I could fax them to you. Russ Burns > To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net [ truncated by lro-digester (was 27 lines)] > |__|__|__\___ can change the world... indeed, it's the only > | _| | |_ |} thing that ever has. ------------------------------[ <- Message 44 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950927 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: kbossard@mgdestmx01.erin.gov.au Date: Wed, 27 Sep 95 12:19:51 EST Subject: Isuzu Diesel Engines There has recently been some discussion on the 3.9 Isuzu diesel engine option in Australia. The engine used in the 110 is known as the 4BD1 while the version used in the 6X6 vehicles (mainly army vehicles known as Perenties) is turbocharged and designated 4BD1T. The 6X6 has a diff ratio of 4.7:1 rather than 3.54:1 in the 110. The Isuzu diesel was only ever coupled to the LT95 gearbox as far as I am aware. KarlB ph 06 271 2189 fax: 06 273 2395 email: kbossard@mgdestmx01.erin.gov.au ------------------------------[ <- Message 45 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950927 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 26 Sep 1995 19:43:53 -0700 From: jjbpears@ix.netcom.com (Jeremy Bartlett) Subject: 109 Shocks - Rancho Update Well I found and fit Rancho shocks to Mathilda, my 109 SW. The shocks used were: 5164 for the front 5117 for the rear. According to 4 Wheel Parts Wholesalers in Oakland, CA the 5164s are no longer available and I got the last of them. The ones to use for the front and rear respectively will be: 5119 5117 Thanks to all who supplied me with measurements suggested part #s etc. Cheers, Jeremy P.S. Damn those rears are a pain to install. ------------------------------[ <- Message 46 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950927 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 26 Sep 1995 21:13:42 -0700 (PDT) From: "Walter C. Swain" <wcswain@wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us> Subject: Re: LH footwell Heat On Tue, 26 Sep 1995 johng@iafrica.com wrote: > Has anyone any suggestions on reducing the heat generated by the > exaust pipe in the LH footwell of a SIIA. I have spoke to the local landie [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)] > answer and would like to here from someone who has solved this > problem, or at least reduced the problem. Get the heat shield made for the purpose. It worked wonders in my 109 IIA. Walt = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = Walter C. Swain | wcswain@wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us Davis Community Network | 1988 Range Rover Davis, California | 1967 109 Series IIA Safari SW ------------------------------[ <- Message 47 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950927 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 27 Sep 1995 12:13:33 +0800 (WST) From: TONY YATES <tonyy@waalpha.wa.BoM.GOV.AU> Subject: Re: Isuzu Diesel Engines > 3.54:1 in the 110. The Isuzu diesel was only ever coupled to the LT95 gearbox as > far as I am aware. I know a couple of people with 5-speed Isuzu powered 110s. Not sure whether they are LT77 or LT85 though. I think they have different transfer ratios due to the slogging truck like nature of the motor. ========================================================== () ( ) () Tony Yates ( ) ( ) ( ) Bureau of Meteorology ( )( ) ( ) Port Hedland ( ) )( ) Western Australia ( ) ) -------- ------------ ph: (091) 401 350 \\\**\\**\ fax: (091) 401 100 \***\*\ \\*\ email: A.Yates@bom.gov.au \\ ========================================================== ------------------------------[ <- Message 48 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950927 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 27 Sep 1995 12:23:18 +0800 (WST) From: TONY YATES <tonyy@waalpha.wa.BoM.GOV.AU> Subject: RE: D90 Owners... On Tue, 26 Sep 1995, Jeff Gauvin wrote: D90's do have personalities. I noticed a rather strange phenomenon on my last road trip: the interior is cooler with the windows closed! When you open a window it apparently creates a suction force that draws hot air from the bottom the the vehicle through the seat boxes and into the cab. The seat boxes and seats get extremely hot (this can't be good for the battery [or seat leather & foam] can it?). Close the windows and everything cools down; seat boxes become cold to the touch! Weird! Isn't it just! I've found the trick is to close the windows and open the front vents. (Must get the A/C fixed one day...) ========================================================== () ( ) () Tony Yates ( ) ( ) ( ) Bureau of Meteorology ( )( ) ( ) Port Hedland ( ) )( ) Western Australia ( ) ) -------- ------------ ph: (091) 401 350 \\\**\\**\ fax: (091) 401 100 \***\*\ \\*\ email: A.Yates@bom.gov.au \\ ========================================================== ------------------------------[ <- Message 49 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950927 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 26 Sep 1995 21:28:19 -0700 (PDT) From: "Walter C. Swain" <wcswain@wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us> Subject: Re: Please stop On Tue, 26 Sep 1995, Wood Bill wrote: >>>>>> To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net<<<<< > I've made over a dozen requests to several addresses to remove my name from > the Land Rover owners mailing list. If anyone knows how to stop this, please > let me know. Bill, This comes under the general heading of RTFM. Send the message to majordomo@land-rover.team.net. In the message write "unsubscribe land-rover-owner" and the address you used to subscribe in the first place. Please bear in mind that the list is provided at no cost to you or to any of the rest of us. Just because you didn't keep the information necessary to gracefully unsubscribe is no reason to vent. If you subscribed using an alias or other variation on your e-mail address it will take a while for it to take effect if you don't use the same address. As a last resort send a note to majordomo-owner and politely ask to be taken off the list. = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = Walter C. Swain | wcswain@wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us Davis Community Network | 1988 Range Rover Davis, California | 1967 109 Series IIA Safari SW ------------------------------[ <- Message 50 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950927 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
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