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From: Andrew Grafton <A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk>
Subject: Exhaust downpipe
Date: Tue, 26 Sep 95 10:18:25 BST

Our 2286 diesel (with the downward-facing manifold outlet) exhaust
down pipe is rattling around.  This is because the lip fitted to 
the top of the pipe, which is clamped between the manifold and the
triangular thingy on the exhaust, has worn and is now too small.

The downpipe's in good condition apart from that and I'd 
rather not chuck it if I can avoid doing so.  Any super-hints
out there for solving the problem?

Tried clamping a piece of coathanger wire in there along with 
everything else, but it was too fiddly and kept sticking out the
side.  What I'd like to find is some kind of asbestos bootlace
with wire reinforcement...  Anyone know where in the UK I can get 
some?

In case it is of interest, the exhaust is on a 109" not-safari
and pumps the smoke out of the left hand rear wheel well.

All the best,

Andy
A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk
 

------------------------------

From: Tom Stevenson <gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk>
Subject: Challenge
Date: Tue, 26 Sep 1995 10:36:27 +0100 (BST)

What is an Amigo? Is it an Isuzu Trooper made by someone else, or is it
another version of the Vauxhall Frontera, which I understand is a
rebadged Japanese vehicle?
-- 
Tom Stevenson: gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk
University Marine Biological Station, Isle of Cumbrae, Scotland
Tel:(01475) 530581  Fax:(01475) 530601

------------------------------

From: Mr Ian Stuart <Ian.Stuart@ed.ac.uk>
Date:          Tue, 26 Sep 1995 12:05:39 +0000
Subject:       "Man survives fall in LandRover"

Scottish Daily Record, 25/9/95

Lucky driver Eugene Maxwell reckons he owes his life to his sturdy 
Land-Rover.
The vehicle was knocked off a bridge yesterday into a river 40 feet below 
by an articulated lorry - and then the truck crashed down on top of it.
But the 38-year-old amazingly escaped with only a cut finger, a sore back 
and bruises.

[snip]

The crash happened on Deanston Bridge, Perthshire.
At home in Brig O'Turk, Perthshire, Eugene said: "I owe my life to 
Land-Rover."
"'If I had been driving anything else I don't think I would be here now."
"The Land-Rover came crashing down into the river, and then I heard the 
lorry coming down as well. I thought I was a goner."
"But the Land-Rover just took it."

Eugene's Land Rover is a White Defender 90, reg looks like G383SPL
The picture in the paper shows the D90 drivers side down with the rear 
wheels of the artic.'s cab resting on the rear axel of the D90 and lying 
on it's passengers side.

PS - Eugene's two dogs also escaped uninjured :-)

     ----** Ian Stuart (Computing Officer)        +44 31 650 6205
Royal (Dick) School of Veterinary Studies, Edinburgh University. 
 <http://www.vet.ed.ac.uk/> or <http://www.tardis.ed.ac.uk/~kiz/>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Sep 95 06:46:42 EDT
From: (Tom Rowe) <trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu>
Subject: Re: Finding a PTO winch (was Military 24 Volt)

On Mon, 25 Sep 1995 16:03:21 -0600 (MDT) Rob wrote:

>Some more questions:
Snip

>4) Are PTO winches that fit a series LR easily found? I have a forward 
>pointing PTO on the transfer case. Or is it just easier to get an 
>electric one? I would have to upgrade my generator (an 
>old 22 amp one) and convert to neg. ground, I expect.

Rob,
The most common PTO in the US, the Koenig, is no longer produced as such. I believe it is still made in the guise of a hydraulic. If you have the PTO output unit on your tranny, you should be able to convert one to PTO. I can give you some details if y
Otherwise, you'll just have to keep your eyes & ears open for a used one. They come up fairly frequently it seems. Two here on the list in the past few months.
If you don't think you'll be using it much, an electric one probably will suit. And it certainly will be cheaper than a Koenig would be new, and likely cheaper than a used Koenig.

Tom Rowe
UW-Center for Dairy Research
Madison, WI                    | Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck
608-265-6194                  | in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

From: sreddock@VNET.IBM.COM
Date: Tue, 26 Sep 95 12:30:15 BST
Subject: 12V conversion & winches

Rob, if you are going to convert a 24V to a 12V I would expect lots of very
odd wiring problems to surface as the lower voltage just won't have the
potential to bridge the rusty joints.

There are very mixed opinions on the value of the conversion.  A lot of people
recommend it as the 24V plugs, cap & whatever are very expensive as they are
screened.  It is possible to throw away these bits and replace them with the
12V variety, but be sure to run with 12V if you use a 12V coil.

I have heard about split systems which sound like a good idea as you keep the
alternator which will run a small housing estate and good lights but loose
the expense/bother of the ignition system.

24/12V convertors are available for the system, but if your note was
suggesting fiddling with the same alternator to change the output voltage
I have never heard of it being done.  New 12V alternators are quite cheap.

Winches: most pto winches are available are the capstain variety.  These have
limited use for self recovery as they rely on somebody keeping the rope taut
whilst moving to keep up with the vehicle.  If you can't drive over it can
you be sure of being able to walk on it?  One slip and the whole thing could
run backwards at a high rate (of course you did stand far enough away that
you wouldn't get run over when you fell!).

Electric winches are available in 24V as well (that housing estate generator
is useful), otherwise 12V electrics need to be in good shape, preferably with
a high output alternator and a spare battery on a split charge system.  Running
with an electric winch and a 22 amp dynamo is likely to get you working up a
sweat with the cranking handle!

Positive earth winches are going to be hard to source.

Steve Reddock ( no .sig and I don't work for IBM either!)

------------------------------

From: azw@aber.ac.uk (Andy Woodward)
Subject: Re: Frame Oiling
Date: Tue, 26 Sep 1995 13:21:55 UNDEFINED

>>any of the spray. This only good for the outside of the frame. I 
>>still use regular used motor oil and gear oil (heated) to spray 
>>inside the frame and lots of it. 

Nononononono!!!!!! Why do you think you change the engine oil? Cos it gets all 
acidic. In my young naive days I thought how good it would be to rustproof my 
tools with old motor oil. (Yorkshiremen HATE throwing owt away). They all went 
very rusty..........

Old gear oil is fine. Old engine oil shuld be thrown in the nearest river and 
not allowed anywhere near your pride and joy!

------------------------------

From: azw@aber.ac.uk (Andy Woodward)
Subject: Wavering speedo
Date: Tue, 26 Sep 1995 13:24:56 UNDEFINED

Mine wavered like hell for months before the cable broke.........

------------------------------

Date: 26 Sep 95 09:00:57 EDT
From: "R. Pierce Reid" <70004.4011@compuserve.com>
Subject: D90 Owners Respond

Ross:

I bought a D90 to replace a series of Series LR's because I have a long commute
(and because I really, really wanted one!).  Mine has no rattles (except my
teeth on speed bumps) and is built like a brick outhouse.  The Mud Terrain's are
a bit noisy and I will likely replace them with All-Terrains when they wear out.
If cost is an issue... buy used.  I bought mine for $26K with 800 (yes, 800)
miles on it and every possible option installed, except hardtop.  They are
regularly advertised with <4K miles for 27K miles in AutoWeek and a call around
to dealers will net you a good used one, probably in your choice of colors.  A
plane ticket to a dealer elsewhere would be well worth saving 6K and taxes on a
new one.

It is a bit of a beast on the road, but compared to a Series LR, it's a comfy,
practical daily commuter.

But I must admit to also having a large sedan that I can drive when business
dictates and I would recommend to people that they think about a Disco unless
they really want to live day-to-day with a noisy purpose-built off-roader.

What clinched it for me... convertible top.  There is nothing like a D90 with
the roof and door tops off tooling down a dirt road in search of a little path
into the boonies on a cool fall day.  Nothing at all....

Cheers, 

R. P. Reid

------------------------------

Date: 26 Sep 95 09:12:33 EDT
From: "R. Pierce Reid" <70004.4011@compuserve.com>
Subject: Galvinizer

Howdy:

Who can recommend a good galvinizer to re-galvanize a whole mess of Series One
parts.  Prefer in the Northeast, but will ship anywhere for a proper job.  

Also, does anyone have a recommendation on a pneumatic riveter (or similar) to
duplicate the domed rivet heads on a SI?

Thanks, 

R. P . Reid

------------------------------

From: Frederick_O._Ellsworth@bcsmac.org (Frederick O. Ellsworth)
Subject: Popping out of gear
Date: 26 Sep 1995 14:35:55 GMT

What would cause a IIA tranny to pop out of 4th gear at freeway speeds.  On a
250 mile trip yesterday it happened 4 times.  Has never done it before.  
The Fairey overdrive was engaged, speed about 65mph, running 85-140 gear oil.
Thanks in advance for any ideas,
Fred

- sent via an evaluation copy of BulkRate (unregistered).

------------------------------

From: Anthony Verriello <verriello_t@jpmorgan.com>
Date: Tue, 26 Sep 1995 10:20:45 -0400
Subject: D90's  Pros/Cons

I have  a  '94 D90 that I bought about 12 months ago...here are my experiences to date:

Minuses:
	-I use more gas than some small countries
	-I cant list all the noises (Never mind the tire carrier, I am convinced 
		mine is haunted)
	-Trips over six hours are torture 

Pluses:
	-Nothing can stop this thing, you soon learn the following things:
		1) three feet is not alot of snow (I havent shoveled my driveway since 
			I got mine)
		2) In emergencies, creative detours over almost any road obstacle are
			possible (I have had to traverse small walls, trees, 
			lakes that used to be roads and other nasties)
		3) saving other make 4x4s, from themselves, on the trail, is reason 
			enough to buy one  
	-I still get the what the hell looks from people that have never seen one
	-Its wash and wear (run it hard through the dirt topless and just hose it out,
		even WITH the leather seats)
	-Its just plain fun
	-You get to associate with really cool poeple like us

Conclussions
	-I will never sell my D90 and am sorry I had bought a 94 Wrangler before I
		realized the order of the food chain
	-The truck has personallity...not drawbacks.  Its all part of the LR experience
	
Advice
	If you plan on driving on-road most of the time (and I dont advise that if you
        can avoid it) I would suggest looking at the Disco...however the hardtop D90 
	is alot tighter and quieter and you can always take the top off and run topless.
	
	Also if this is to be your only vehicle get the full soft-top or the hard top.
	Weddings and the like in a topless truck are not fun, just ask my girlfriend...

Tony V.
	
verriello_anthony@jpmorgan.com
        
 +-+--+-@
 |_|_/|__\__ 
 | _  |' |_ |} (Dagwood...named for his voracious appetite,
 =(_)=+==(_)'             petrol not sandwiches)

'94 NAS black D90 
(happiness is pulling a jeep out of a hole)
	

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Sep 1995 07:25:16 -0700
From: burns@lint.cisco.com (Russell burns)
Subject: Re: D90 owners please respond

>To: ross@secant.com (Ross Leidy)
>From: burns@lint.cisco.com (Russell burns)
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 76 lines)]
>>year. I'm embarrased to say that I haven't made the purchase yet.  I do
>>have quite a  few dealer brochures and magazine articles that have drool
>>marks all over. :)
Russ Burns________________________________________________________________
CiscoSystems

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Sep 1995 16:37:56 +0200 (GMT+0200)
From: Andrew Birrell <pdandrew@iaccess.za>
Subject: Re: Popping out of gear

Possibly worn syncro unit (3rd/4th has an integral syncro unit), ar 
possibly worn teeth on 4th. A friend had a similar problem after a 
gearbox rebuild, when the 3rd/4th gear unit was put in the wrong way round.

On 26 Sep 1995, Frederick O. Ellsworth wrote:

> To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net
> What would cause a IIA tranny to pop out of 4th gear at freeway speeds.  On a
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 12 lines)]
> Fred
> - sent via an evaluation copy of BulkRate (unregistered).

------------------------------

From: Harincar@mooregs.com (Tim Harincar)
Date: Tue, 26 Sep 1995 09:41:46 -0700
Subject: More on Insurance

Just wanted to add some specs on my insurance rate here in Minnesota.
This is for my '66 IIa 88. 

Total premium is $424.80 per year from Allstate, and includes the following:

- Urban residency (2.5 miles from downtown Minneapolis)
- Multi-car discount
- No unmarried drivers under 25
- Max 7500 miles/year, pleasure use only (i.e. no daily commuting)
- Good driver rate
- Advantage discount (because we have our homeowners throught Allstate)
- Economy car discount (? - I think thats because its 4 cyl.  -  hehehe)
- Policy is for actual cash value, not replacement value

Base liability - $196
Personal Injury - $142
Uninsured Motorist - $11.60
Underinsured Motorist - $11.20
Collision - $50
Comprehensive - $14.00

Tim
---
tim harincar
harincar@mooregs.com
'66 IIa 88 SW

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Sep 1995 07:48:49 -0700
From: burns@lint.cisco.com (Russell burns)
Subject: Re: Frame Oiling

I take it that river in Yorkshire, means proper disposal. I tend to enjoy
canoeing, and oil is tough to get off the canoe.
>Old gear oil is fine. Old engine oil shuld be thrown in the nearest river and 
>not allowed anywhere near your pride and joy!
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]

>Old gear oil is fine. Old engine oil shuld be thrown in the nearest river and 
>not allowed anywhere near your pride and joy!
Russ Burns________________________________________________________________
CiscoSystems

------------------------------

From: Guydell@aol.com
Date: Tue, 26 Sep 1995 11:51:43 -0400
Subject: RR problems resolved except one.^MRE: RR prblms resol except 1

RE: David Brown RR problem:

I have a similar problem in my 90 RR where the engine cuts and hesitates
especially during acceleration onto the highway.  Sometimes this also happens
at constant acceleration.  The problem is erratic and unpredictable and
always corrects itself within minutes.  For example, I drove 200 miles on the
freeway over the weekend without incident, but then the problem reappeared
the next day.  Thus far I have run several bottles of Techron through the
fuel system to clean the injectors, changed the plugs, plug wires, and cap &
rotor, all to no avail.  Also, replaced the fuel filter and the fuel pump
pressure checks out OK.  My problem is very unpredictable and happens
infrequently enough that I have no clue where to look next, and I have no
idea how to reproduce the symptom with the hood up.  The local Land Rover
dealer of course recommends an upwards of $650 tune-up (excuse me!). Someone
on the list previously suggested the throttle plate and throttle position
sensor?  Anyone out there who has solved a similar problem?

Guy della-Cioppa
Guy dell@aol.com
90 RR County (Beluga Black)
50 Plymouth P-19 Fastback
66 VW Camper

------------------------------

From: Rick Snyder <snyderr@hpanvs.an.hp.com>
Subject: IIA Servo Question
Date: Tue, 26 Sep 95 11:55:18 EDT

I'm now in the process of restoring my IIA 88" which has been
sitting (sigh) since my oldest child was born eight years ago!

When last driven I was never too sure if the brake servo was doing
it's thing and now, after eight years, I don't have a way to test
it in the vehicle.  I've pulled it out (pedal and all) and it looks
pretty ragged - the master cylinder was stuck in it preety good but
I was able to pry it off and look at all the accumulated rust in
between it and the servo.

These things are pretty expensive so I have a couple of questions -

Is there a way to test the servo on the bench?

If the sevro housing is intact (no rust-through) how likely is
it that it needs to be replaced?

Rick Snyder
Chester N.H.
'71 SIIA

------------------------------

From: Jeff Gauvin <jeffg@minerva.ncrmicro.ncr.com>
Subject: RE: D90 Owners...
Date: Tue, 26 Sep 95 9:58:04 MDT

David Rosenbaum <rosenbau@u.washington.edu> says:

  I have owned my '94 D90 since Dec. 1993, and *love* it. 

Had my '94 D90 hardtop since April '95 and love mine too!

  [clip]

  Most of my time in the D90 is spent on pavement, in the suburbs and
  city of Seattle (commuting to work to *pay* for the thing!)  and I
  enjoy being able to take the top off and windows out and sitting high
  enough to look out over the traffic -- to the mountains where I wish I
  was heading.

Ditto.  I commute ~20 miles (R/T) a day and don't find it stressfull at
all. The hardtop does help cut down on noise; you can almost hear the
radio at highway speeds!

  [clip]

  Mine had a rattle coming from the rear tire carrier, which I found was
  due to a loose lug-nut:  easy fix.  Several months ago, somebody
  posted a more serious problem with their rear tire carrier (leaking
  grease maybe?)  And Land Rovers DO have personalities:  which *may*
  include unique squeeks and/or leaks.

My tire carrier rattles a bit too, and the "quiet" hardtop allows me
hear it even better :-( I once found that two (!)  of the lower mounting
bolts had come loose, but tightening them did not make the rattle go
away.  I'll check my lug nuts, but I don't think that'll fix it - the
sound comes from loose fitting hinges.

D90's do have personalities.  I noticed a rather strange phenomenon on
my last road trip:  the interior is cooler with the windows closed!
When you open a window it apparently creates a suction force that draws
hot air from the bottom the the vehicle through the seat boxes and into
the cab.  The seat boxes and seats get extremely hot (this can't be good
for the battery [or seat leather & foam] can it?).  Close the windows
and everything cools down; seat boxes become cold to the touch!  Weird!

So, if you live in a hot climate get the optional A/C.  I don't have it
but sometimes wish I did.

I've considered taking my sliding windows to a shop to have a couple
more slots machined into the rails, allowing more than one locking
position.  Anyone done this?

Other brain storms:  have custom sliding side windows intalled in the
hardtop; install a sun roof (may be impossible to seal due to corrugated
roof).  I'll probably go for real functionality first, like ARB lockers
and a winch.

--
Jeffrey J. Gauvin		email: jeff.gauvin@symbios.com
Symbios Logic Inc.		Voice: 719-573-3563
1635 Aeroplaza Dr.		FAX: 719-573-3824
Colorado Springs, CO 80916

------------------------------

From: Andrew Grafton <A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: Frame Oiling
Date: Tue, 26 Sep 95 17:07:51 BST

> I take it that river in Yorkshire, means proper disposal. I tend to enjoy
> canoeing, and oil is tough to get off the canoe.

I think I have this one solved.  There's this chap here whose car 
burns so much oil that everyone else gives him their old engine
oil.  It gets used twice, and ends up as small droplets protecting
the paintwork of cars that follow him along the road.
What could be better?!  <joke>
He likes LR oil 'cause it is thick and stops some of the strange
engine noises.

It's an Austin Maestro and is absolutely, definitely, 100% certain 
to fail the MOT this year.

All the best,

Andy
A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk

------------------------------

From: Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: Frame Oiling
Date: Tue, 26 Sep 95 17:02:20 BST

> To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net

	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 18 lines)]
> >not allowed anywhere near your pride and joy!
> Russ Burns________________________________________________________________
> CiscoSystems
That's the whole point! According to Yorkshire Water,there *arent* any
rivers in Yorkshire.Not now,anyway.

Cheers
Mike Rooth

------------------------------

From: jory@figment.mit.edu (Jory Bell)
Subject: If OS's were beers... (fwd)
Date: Tue, 26 Sep 1995 12:48:31 -0400 (EDT)

Forwarded message:
>From mlbarrow@nog.netf.org Tue Sep 26 09:12:01 1995
Date: Tue, 26 Sep 1995 09:10:27 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Michael L. Barrow" <mlbarrow@nog.netf.org>
Subject: If OS's were beers...
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII

This is sorta stupid, but kinda funny....

-- mlb

---------- Forwarded message ----------

If Operating Systems Were Beers...

DOS Beer:
Requires you to use your own can opener, and requires you to read the
directions carefully before opening the can. Originally only came in
an 8-oz. can, but now comes in a 16-oz. can. However, the can is
divided into 8 compartments of 2 oz. each, which have to be accessed
separately.  Soon to be discontinued, although a lot of people are
going to keep drinking it after it's no longer available.

Mac Beer:
At first, came only a 16-oz. can, but now comes in a 32-oz. can.
Considered by many to be a "light" beer. All the cans look identical.
When you take one from the fridge, it opens itself. The ingredients
list is not on the can. If you call to ask about the ingredients, you
are told that "you don't need to know." A notice on the side reminds
you to drag your empties to the trashcan.

Windows 3.1 Beer:
The world's most popular. Comes in a 16-oz. can that looks a lot like
Mac Beer's. Requires that you already own a DOS Beer. Claims that it
allows you to drink several DOS Beers simultaneously, but in reality
you can only drink a few of them, very slowly, especially slowly if
you are drinking the Windows Beer at the same time. Sometimes, for
apparently no reason, a can of Windows Beer will explode when you
open it.

OS/2 Beer:
Comes in a 32-oz can. Does allow you to drink several DOS Beers
simultaneously. Allows you to drink Windows 3.1 Beer simultaneously
too, but somewhat slower. Advertises that its cans won't explode when
you open them, even if you shake them up. You never really see
anyone
drinking OS/2 Beer, but the manufacturer (International Beer
Manufacturing) claims that 9 million six-packs have been sold.

Windows 95 Beer:
You can't buy it yet, but a lot of people have taste-tested it and
claim it's wonderful. The can looks a lot like Mac Beer's can, but
tastes more like Windows 3.1 Beer. It comes in 32-oz. cans, but when
you look inside, the cans only have 16 oz. of beer in them. Most
people will probably keep drinking Windows 3.1 Beer until their
friends try Windows 95 Beer and say they like it. The ingredients
list, when you look at the small print, has some of the same
ingredients that come in DOS beer, even though the manufacturer
claims that this is an entirely new brew.

Windows NT Beer:
Comes in 32-oz. cans, but you can only buy it by the truckload. This
causes most people to have to go out and buy bigger refrigerators.
The can looks just like Windows 3.1 Beer's, but the company promises
to change the can to look just like Windows 95 Beer's - after Windows
95 beer starts shipping. Touted as an "industrial strength" beer, and
suggested only for use in bars.

Unix Beer:
Comes in several different brands, in cans ranging from 8 oz. to 64
oz.  Drinkers of Unix Beer display fierce brand loyalty, even though
they claim that all the different brands taste almost identical.
Sometimes the pop-tops break off when you try to open them, so you
have to have your own can opener around for those occasions, in
which
case you either need a complete set of instructions, or a friend who
has been drinking Unix Beer for several years.

AmigaDOS Beer:
The company has gone out of business, but their recipe has been
picked up by some weird German company, so now this beer will be an
import.  This beer never really sold very well because the original
manufacturer didn't understand marketing. Like Unix Beer, AmigaDOS
Beer fans are an extremely loyal and loud group. It originally came
in a 16-oz. can, but now comes in 32-oz. cans too. When this can was
originally introduced, it appeared flashy and colorful, but the
design hasn't changed much over the years, so it appears dated now.
Critics of this beer claim that it is only meant for watching TV
anyway.

VMS Beer:
Requires minimal user interaction, except for popping the top and
sipping.  However cans have been known on occasion to explode, or
contain extremely un-beer-like contents.  Best drunk in high pressure
development environments.  When you call the manufacturer for the
list of ingredients, you're told that is proprietary and referred to
an unknown listing in the manuals published by the FDA.  Rumors are
that this was once listed in the Physicians' Desk Reference as a
tranquilizer, but no one can claim to have actually seen it.

* end *

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Sep 1995 10:03:58 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Brabyn <brabyn@skivs.ski.org>
Subject: Re: Various Questions

On Mon, 25 Sep 1995, John Y. Liu wrote:

> Here's the questions.  I can't raise the truck more than an inch (preferably
> not at all), or it won't fit in my carport with a roof rack.  Will new
> springs raise a Rover?

Yes if the old ones have sagged. I put new stock springs on the rear and 
it raised the vehicle about an inch then settled so the net gain was 
probably half that. I used 2 left hand springs (slightly longer than the 
right hand ones) which corrected the list to starboard seen on most North 
American Range Rovers of 87-90.  Otherwise, I've heard of folks putting 
Disco springs in the rear (stiffer so make the rear higher) and putting 
the old rear RR springs on the front. Talk to Mike at Rovers North about 
this.  Finally, "heavy duty" springs can be had, as can lifted ones, but 
they might all be bad for your garage.

Can anyone suggest an economical source for new road
> springs (for delivery to Los Angeles)?
I got some from Atlantic British at not too outrageous a price

  And should I use the regular black > rubber bushes or look for those
polyurethane bushes that are brightly > colored like popsicle sticks?  If
you are more interested in flexibility, preserving the soft ride, and
better off roading -- rather than sports car handling, use the original
rubber bushes. The popsicle ones claim all sorts of wonderful advantages
in (on-pavement) handling etc due to the fact they are stiffer. In my
opinion, stiffness is bad except on the racetrack or establishing record
slalom speeds.  Popsicles also claim to last longer, which is probably
true. 

 Finally, besides penetrating oil, a hacksaw,
> heat, and a big hammer, are there any magic tricks for extracting and
> inserting bushings? 

A hydraulic shop press is a good thing if you feel like springing for 
one. You'll soon find a hammer or squeezing in the vise doesn't hack it.

Good luck and cheers

John Brabyn
89RR

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Sep 95 11:02:38 MST
From: DEBROWN@SRP.GOV
Subject: RR problems resolved except one. RE: RR prblms resol except 1

FROM:  David Brown                           Internet: debrown@srp.gov
       Computer Graphics Specialist * Mapping Services & Engr Graphics
       PAB219 (602)236-3544 -  Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486
SUBJECT: RR problems resolved except one. RE: RR prblms resol except 1
=========================================================================
>From: Guydell@aol.com
>I have a similar problem in my 90 RR where the engine cuts and hesitates
>especially during acceleration onto the highway. Sometimes this also happens

                    <<< Band reduction snippage.... >>>

>sensor? Anyone out there who has solved a similar problem?
========================================================================

I'm determined to locate the source of this problem... almost at *any* cost.
I will post my findings to the LRO list when I get it fixed. I too have new
plugs, cap, rotor, throttle position sensor (potentiometer?), fuel filter
and the fuel pump pressure checks out OK. Mine seems to be a continual
problem, and does not correct itself within minutes. Should be easy to
duplicate to the dealer with a test ride.

Oh yeah, I tried several bottles of Techron as well. (My 1st thought.)

The service manager at the dealer suggested that it could be the ignition
amplifier, distributor, throttle air meter, ECU, or even the alternator.
I've spoken with 2 other "LR specialty" repair facilities, and they have
both referred me to the dealer for the troubleshooting, since they can
literally "plug and play" (replace one thing to see if it fixes it, then
another, and another, etc...) whereas the independent shop would have to
purchase each component, and most likely couldn't return them once
installed.

Today I'm having the headliner replaced, so maybe Tomorrow....

Oh! And speaking of the alternator, I noticed that at night, the "charge"
light glows very dimly at idle, but when you rev the engine it goes out.
Is this "normal" ("normal" that is, for Joe Lucas.)? Lights on or off didn't
seem to make any difference.

P.S. Any takers on the "Isuzu Amigo" challenge? I wish I were closer, I'd
take them on with the RR or maybe even better, the 88! It'd be fun to see
a 25 year old rig run circles around him!

#=======#                Never doubt that a small group of individuals
|__|__|__\___            can change the world... indeed, it's the only
| _|  |   |_ |}          thing that ever has.
"(_)""""""(_)"                                          -Margaret Mead

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Sep 1995 11:44:13 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Brabyn <brabyn@skivs.ski.org>
Subject: Re: RR problems resolved except one. RE: RR prblms resol except 1

On Tue, 26 Sep 1995 DEBROWN@SRP.GOV wrote:

> I'm determined to locate the source of this problem... almost at *any* cost.
> I will post my findings to the LRO list when I get it fixed. I too have new
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 12 lines)]
> The service manager at the dealer suggested that it could be the ignition
> amplifier, distributor, throttle air meter, ECU, or even the alternator.

This sounds really worrying, and I wish one of us could suggest an instan 
solution. It really sounds like something is wrong with the computerized 
injection system, consisting of the components you mention. (I can't see 
how it could be the alternator though???). Does the problem occur when 
you put your foot on the gas only, or is it a steady state thing as well? 
perhaps an exact specification of the symptoms would help (though you 
probably posted them before and I forgot, but it looks like it would be 
worth a second round!)

Cheers

John Brabyn
89RR

------------------------------

Subject: Please stop
Date: Tue, 26 Sep 95 14:54:12 -0500
From: Wood Bill <billwood@inch.com>

-- [ From: Wood Bill * EMC.Ver #2.5.03 ] --

I've made over a dozen requests to several addresses to remove my name from
the Land Rover owners mailing list. If anyone knows how to stop this, please
let me know.

I've received 50 new messages since my last request a few hours ago. I am
leaving town for two weeks very soon and am worried that I will lose
valuable real e-mail because my server will get overloaded and start
chucking mail out. I had no idea how much mail this would generate when I
subscribed. I've tried everything but let me try again.

unsubscribe land-rover-owner Bill Wood <billwood@inch.com>

unsubscribe land-rover-owner billwood@inch.com

unsubscribe <land-rover-owner> <billwood@inch.com>

unsubscribe (land-rover-owner)

unsubscribe land-rover-owner

unsubscribe land-rover-owner Bill Wood billwood@inch.com

unsubscribe land-rover-owner Land Rover Owner

unsubscribe (land-rover-owner)

unsubscribe (land-rover-owner Land Rover Owner)

------------------------------

From: johng@iafrica.com
Date:          Tue, 26 Sep 1995 20:56:46 +0000
Subject:       LH footwell Heat

Hi

Has anyone any suggestions on reducing the heat generated by the 
exaust  pipe in the LH footwell of a SIIA.  I have spoke to the local landie 
guru and his reply was "Place a tarpaulin in the footwell bacause 
that is the way it is with heat in a landie".  I don't accept that 
answer and would like to here from someone who has solved this 
problem, or at least reduced the problem.

Best wishes

John G
__________________________________________________________

John N Groome
PO Box 12628
Benoryn 1504
South Africa

Tel  : +27 11 973-3403
Fax  : +27 11 973-3283
Cell : +27 82 442-6281
email: johng@iafrica.com
___________________________________________________________

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Sep 95 12:06:07 MST
From: DEBROWN@SRP.GOV
Subject: Re: RR problem...

FROM:  David Brown                           Internet: debrown@srp.gov
       Computer Graphics Specialist * Mapping Services & Engr Graphics
       PAB219 (602)236-3544 -  Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486
SUBJECT: Re: RR problem...
From: Dave Brown <debrown@srp.gov> >

>> I'm determined to locate the source of this problem... almost at *any*
>> cost. I will post my findings to the LRO list when I get it fixed. I too
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
>> continual problem, and does not correct itself within minutes. Should be
>> easy to duplicate to the dealer with a test ride.  Oh yeah, I tried

>> Oh yeah, I tried several bottles of Techron as well. (My 1st thought.)
>> several bottles of Techron as well. (My 1st thought.)

>> The service manager at the dealer suggested that it could be the ignition
>> amplifier, distributor, throttle air meter, ECU, or even the alternator.

>From: John Brabyn <brabyn@skivs.ski.org>

>This sounds really worrying, and I wish one of us could suggest an instan
>solution. It really sounds like something is wrong with the computerized
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
>probably posted them before and I forgot, but it looks like it would be
>worth a second round!) > >Cheers > >John Brabyn >89RR

Here goes: "normal", light throttle pressure driving around town seems
normal. Medium to heavy acceleration will usually, but not always cause jerky
stuttering, like the key is being turned off and on. Full throttle (floored)
will work normally. Also, at speeds over around 50MPH and below around 82MPH
I get the same results. Trying to maintain a speed on a flat, level road
will minimize the effect, but it is still noticeable. Deceleration is
normal.

Thanks,

#=======#                Never doubt that a small group of individuals
|__|__|__\___            can change the world... indeed, it's the only
| _|  |   |_ |}          thing that ever has.
"(_)""""""(_)"                                          -Margaret Mead

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Sep 1995 12:40:07 -0700
From: shibumi@cisco.com (Kenton A. Hoover)
Subject: Re: RR problems resolved except one. RE: RR prblms resol except 1

>To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net
>FROM:  David Brown                           Internet: debrown@srp.gov
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)]
>Is this "normal" ("normal" that is, for Joe Lucas.)? Lights on or off didn't
>seem to make any difference.

Your fan belt is slipping on the alternator.  I had a problem with my 87 RR
eating fan belts left and right.  It used to eat them every 500 miles like
clockwork.  It stopped after 3000 miles worth.  Have them check the tension
and alignment.

| Kenton A. Hoover                  Staff Technologist |  shibumi@cisco.com |
| Engineering Computer Services                        |                    |
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
|   10 or more days never recover.  Ever."                                  |
|                          -- PC Week, Febraury 6, 1995, page 129           |

------------------------------

From: Trefor Delve <delve1t@nectech.co.uk>
Subject: RE: Wierd Generator Stuff
Date: Tue, 26 Sep 95 20:50:00 GMT

Tim,

On the 21st of September, you posted a query regarding the charging warning 
light on your 66 IIa.  I have seen no reply so I thought I would answer.

I'm not to sure if by Generator you mean dynamo or alternator.  If it is an 
alternator, the charging light remains on when a diode in the rectifier pack 
has blown (or more correctly has gone short circuit).  If however you have a 
dynamo on the IIa, I don't know the answer.

In the UK, you used to be able to buy a service kit for Lucas alternators 
which included a rectifier pack.  But it is now cheaper to buy an exchange 
unit instead.

Trefor.
tdelve@nectech.co.uk

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Sep 95 13:21:21 MST
From: DEBROWN@SRP.GOV
Subject: '87 RR problem, o2 sensor maybe?

FROM:  David Brown                           Internet: debrown@srp.gov
       Computer Graphics Specialist * Mapping Services & Engr Graphics
       PAB219 (602)236-3544 -  Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486
SUBJECT: '87 RR problem, o2 sensor maybe?
Kenton suggested an o2 sensor may be the problem with the '87 RR stuttering.
I called around (big surprise, none of the "locals" had it) and the dealer
wants $226.98 *each* (there's two of them!) Then I called "my friends" at
British Pacific, and they're getting some aftermarket (Lucas) units in, but
not for a few weeks. Price will be around half the dealer's price. He said
"around the $80 range, about half the dealer's price." Did I really say
"almost *any* price?"

Anyone know how to test an o2 sensor?

Dave (short on oxygen?) Brown

#=======#                Never doubt that a small group of individuals
|__|__|__\___            can change the world... indeed, it's the only
| _|  |   |_ |}          thing that ever has.
"(_)""""""(_)"                                          -Margaret Mead

------------------------------

From: ross@secant.com (Ross Leidy)
Date: Tue, 26 Sep 95 16:28:33 0500
Subject: Thanks to all

Thanks to everyone who responded with their opinions of the D90 and Land
Rovers in general.  After reading all your comments, I now feel that if I
passed-up buying one I'd end up losing all self-respect.

I neglected to mention in my post, that I currently own an 86 Alfa Romeo
Spider.  I bought it nearly 10 years ago, and now that it's time for
something new, I can't imagine buying something without a soft-top.  I am
used to driving a vehicle where the stereo is just  a device to boost the
noise level, so many of the D90 idiosyncracies (features) should be
familiar to me.  Be that as it may, there's  nothing like a top-down drive
on a sunny day.  (I thoroughly enjoyed  the D90 test drive; top off, of
course.)

Thanks again for all your comments.  

Ross

+----------------------------+
| Ross Leidy                 |
| Senior Software Engineer   |
| Secant Technologies, Inc.  |
| Beachwood, Ohio            |
| ross@secant.com            |
+----------------------------+

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Sep 1995 14:33:19 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Brabyn <brabyn@skivs.ski.org>
Subject: Re: '87 RR problem, o2 sensor maybe?

On Tue, 26 Sep 1995 DEBROWN@SRP.GOV wrote:

> SUBJECT: '87 RR problem, o2 sensor maybe?
> Kenton suggested an o2 sensor may be the problem with the '87 RR stuttering.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 11 lines)]
> "almost *any* price?"
> Anyone know how to test an o2 sensor?

Normally when the oxygen sensor goes the EFI light comes on, but no doubt 
there's a way for it to fail without triggering the light!!

I had one renewed recently and the total cost including diagnosis and 
installation was about $250 at the dealer.

I think the test indicated in the manual is just a resistance test, but 
I've read in other books about looking at the voltage on it while the 
engine is running -- it should cycle up and down. 

Cheers

John

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Sep 1995 22:59:25 +0100 (BST)
From: nickfull@pavilion.co.uk (Mr N J Fuller)
Subject: Re: Fuel tank pressure

Hi fellow LRO's 
Have just found a rather strange fault on my 110 TD CSW and would appreciate
any help
in solving it.
Following a couple of short trips recently I noticed a diesel spillage
originating from the fuel filler cap. The fuel cap , filler neck and
associated fittings appear in good condition with no obvious signs of damage
, the fuel level was about a quarter full.
When the fuel cap was taken off a fair bit of pressure was released from the
tank.
Checked out my workshop manuals which show that there is not a vent on the
tank ,only fuel out and fuel return lines . Next I checked that none of the
injectors was dead by slackening the fuel line to each of them with the
engine running , all working ok. Fuel filter is clean with no signs of water
in the fuel sedimentor , don't know what to check next !
 Thanx in advance 
                          Nick

------------------------------

Date: 26 Sep 95 17:59:08 EDT
From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com>
Subject: Re: Misc. RR problems resolved except one.

> 15.5 MPG) there seems to be a remaining (or new) problem. At speeds of over
> 50 MPH it surges very badly. This didn't start until the return trip, and
...
> Anyone else have this? Or have any suggestions? (Again, replaced fuel pump,
> water temp senser, throttle potentiometer (sp?), fuel filter.)

Let's see...  I notice you haven't metioned the air flow sensor (the 'box'
with the black plastic cap and the thick cable on it just behind the air
filter). The 'flap' inside the sensor can be obstructed by dust/crud and
'hang' at certain positions, and the effect can be exactly the 'surge' you
describe. Picture this: You accelerate by more or less gradually depressing
the pedal, thereby opening the throttle flap and at the same time turning
the throttle potentiometer. The potentiometer gives signals to the ECU to
deliver more 'juice' and accelerate firing and injection order. The increased
vacuum sucks in more air, the flap in the air flow sensor opens and...
suddenly hangs, thus limiting the air flow. This in turn leads to the
vacuum controled timing advance being retarded, so at that moment you have
an over-rich mixture combined with retarded ignition timing resulting in
power lag and zero-acceleration. As you continue depressing the pedal,
vacuum increases until the hanging flap finally breaks free and flings wide
open, air gushes in, the timing abruptly jumps way in advance, and... vrooom,
off you go!  - Then again it could be something entirely different, like a
nervous twitch in the foot...  ;-)
Oh yes, if you do decide to clean/flush the air flow sensor, *do not* use
lightly inflammable solvent! The result can be a terrific backfire on
next startup, ripping apart the sensor (don't ask... #-( ).

Stefan
<Stefan R. Jacob, 100043.2400@CompuServe.com>

------------------------------

Date: 26 Sep 95 17:59:00 EDT
From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com>
Subject: Re: RR FAQ / Buyer's Guide?

> local Mercedes dealer) but I was wondering if anybody out there has put
> together a buying guide for used Rangies or maybe a list of the known
> trouble spots and their associated fixes ...

(John Brabyn:)
> Sounds like it's time for a RR FAQ, doesn't it?

(Dixon:)
>       1.      How do you tell them apart?  (various years)
        
Good question.
Though Dixon would seem predestined to compile such a FAQ, I'd gamble that
hell freezes over and palms sway at Lake Ontario before he'd get seriously
involved with Range Rovers, of all things. Then again, miracles do happen...
sometimes...

WRT known trouble spots, have a good look and ear on the transmission/
gearbox. Both boxes (main and T-case) should have sufficient and clean oil
of the correct type in them, shouldn't leak excessively, not have too much
slack ('banging' when taking foot off gas), and not produce any grinding
noise (a slight 'whine' is normal). Check out this: Run the engine in neutral
and listen closely to the gearbox. Depress clutch and listen if sound/noise
changes, i.e. if the gears run more silent. Slowly release clutch (always
in neutral) and pay attention whether a grinding, scraping noise comes on
and stays. If it *does*, then the layshaft bearings are on their way to
destruction. If you intend to do any serious offroading or heavy towing with
your prospective vehicle, don't purchase a car with those symptoms as the
gearbox won't last very long. (YMMV as usual) This check obviously doesn't
apply to an automatic.

Stefan
<Stefan R. Jacob, 100043.2400@CompuServe.com>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Sep 1995 18:20:59 -0400 (EDT)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.emr.ca>
Subject: Re: RR FAQ / Buyer's Guide?

On 26 Sep 1995, Stefan R. Jacob wrote:

> Though Dixon would seem predestined to compile such a FAQ, I'd gamble that
> hell freezes over and palms sway at Lake Ontario before he'd get seriously
> involved with Range Rovers, of all things. Then again, miracles do happen...
> sometimes...

	I can be bribed... A nice early 70's two door appearing in my 
	laneway next to the Mini, 109, & Saab might just send the
	interloper down the road... :-)  Of course, we would have to,
	ahem, test the Range Rover first to see if it lives up to
	its august billing... <grin>

	Rgds,

	PS.  Eurolink?

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Sep 1995 15:59:37 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Brabyn <brabyn@skivs.ski.org>
Subject: Re: Misc. RR problems resolved except one.

On 26 Sep 1995, Stefan R. Jacob wrote:

> filter). The 'flap' inside the sensor can be obstructed by dust/crud and
> 'hang' at certain positions, and the effect can be exactly the 'surge' you
> describe.

Sounds like a good theory -- but is there actually a flap inside the air 
flow sensor?? I thought it was called a "Hot Wire" mass flow sensor and 
had no moving parts. I am most likely wrong, though, as I've not had mine 
apart!!

Cheers

John Brabyn
89RR

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Sep 95 16:38:16 -0700
From: "TeriAnn Wakeman"  <twakeman@apple.com>
Subject: 88 blank sides wanted

I'm looking for a used pair of windowless utility sides from an 88 hardtop for a
project I'm working on.

I would like for the sides to be in excellent physical condition.  The rear 
corner or back of the sides can be in poor shape.  The rear windows can be 
missing.  They can be in any colour(s).  I only plan to use the front 2/3rds of 
each side.

Does anyone have a pair they are willing to ship to me (or I can pick up if they
are within 500 miles of the San Francisco Bay area)?

TeriAnn
twakeman@apple.com

With not-very-secret project 2-Doormobile

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Sep 1995 17:03:38 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Brabyn <brabyn@skivs.ski.org>
Subject: Re: RR FAQ / Buyer's Guide?

On Mon, 25 Sep 1995, Dixon Kenner wrote: (regarding Range Rovers)

> 	1.	How do you tell them apart?  (various years)
> 	2.	What were the different configurations and options?
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
> 	2.	What were the different configurations and options?
> 	3.	What do you look for when you buy one?  (rust etc)

Dixon  -- good to see your interest in Range Rovers is intensifying, and 
you're finally being weaned off those other models!!
(Seriously -- thanks for your support of the FAQ idea).

As far as how to tell them apart, I can contribute the following about 
the US spec models anyway -- 

"How to tell them apart"

1987 & 1988 models are distinguished externally from all other years by
the exhaust outlet being turned out to the (left) side at the tailpipe. 
Internally, have old style door trim, 3.5 engine and gear driven transfer
case with manual diff lock

1989 and all later have tailpipe turned down and airdam with more holes,
and if you peep inside you'll notice the new style of door trim came in.
89 had old style (thin) plastic rocker trim, and half way through 89 the 
exterior door hinges disappeared. Internally -- 3.9 engine and chain 
driven transfer case with automatic (viscous) locking diff. Also during 
1989 County model introduced with large amounts of burlwood trim. Range 
Rover wins Four Wheeler of the Year award by a landslide margin.

1990 -- New deeper plastic rocker trim, otherwise similar external 
appearance. Internally -- antilock brakes added. Regular and County 
models continue.

1990/91 limited "Great Divide" model produced similar to 1990 County but 
with American walnut trim instead of burl, external logos and one-piece 
bumper/brushbar.

1991 -- Gas filler flap moved upward and rearward (due to increased tank
capacity) is only outward difference; from behind the swaybars can be seen
on "regular" and County models. Hunter model introduced (500 produced
only) which had none (also had cloth trim and no airdam). Internally -- 
minor differences such as "improved" EFI sensors.

1992 -- Glass sunroof replaces old style metal one. Land Rover logo 
appears on tailgate. 2 models: regular (similar to Hunter but with 
airdam and leather) and County (beaucoup wood trim and sway bars).

1993 -- County LWB introduced (108" wheelbase with electronic air
suspension and 4.2 litre engine); outer appearance 8 inches rear door. 
Coil sprung 100" wheelbase model continued as County with 3.9 engine.

1994 -- County LWB continues as main model. Dash layout refurbished
w/airbags. Short run of regular 100 inch County produced with air
suspension and old style dash w/out airbags. 

1995 --County LWB continues for a while before being replaced by 4.0 SE 
with new body shape. Short wheelbase (100 inch) model returns as County 
Classic with County LWB style dash, air suspension, 3.9 engine, and County 
Classic logo on tailgate. 

Maybe these are oversimplified and some details could be wrong, but it's 
a start. Can someone put it on an FAQ???

Cheers

John Brabyn
89RR

------------------------------

Date: 26 Sep 95 21:27:46 EDT
From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com>
Subject: Re: Misc. RR problems resolved except one.

> Sounds like a good theory -- but is there actually a flap inside the air 
> flow sensor?? I thought it was called a "Hot Wire" mass flow sensor and 

Depends...  the 'hot wire' type sensor was first used in late '88 models.
Yours being a '89 model, it *theoretically* should have one, and my theory
would be obsolete in your case.
You needn't take the sensor apart, just remove the hose connecting it to
the air filter and look inside. Poke your finger in and see if there's a
flap you can move backwards. If not, then my observations won't help you.
Another thing that could hang, though, is the distributor base plate.
But I'd be very reluctant to fiddle around with an Efi distr.

Stefan
<Stefan R. Jacob, 100043.2400@CompuServe.com>

------------------------------

Subject: LAND ROVER TOY NEWS
From: rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (Robin Craig)
Date: Tue, 26 Sep 95 20:07:37 -0500

The September and October issues of MODEL COLLECTOR out of the UK have 
stuff on Land Rovers.

bfn

Robin

--
Robin Craig, rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Ottawa, Ont. |  Ottawa Valley Land Rovers

------------------------------

Subject: LAND ROVER STAMP NEWS
From: rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (Robin Craig)
Date: Tue, 26 Sep 95 20:08:46 -0500

Will be selling sets of Land Rover stamps soon, am just arranging them.

Will post a description and price and let people bid on them, first 
replies not being the ones accepted but the highest after closeout date.

Rgds

Robin Craig

--
Robin Craig, rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Ottawa, Ont. |  Ottawa Valley Land Rovers

------------------------------

From: Russell Burns <burns@cisco.com>
Subject: Re: '87 RR problem, o2 sensor maybe?
Date: Tue, 26 Sep 95 18:45:28 PDT

It seems that Range rovers do not have Ox sensors, they have Lambda sensors
now the scary part
Lambda: An electrial neutral subatomic particle in the baryon family(any
relation to the royal family) having a mass of 2,183 times that of an electron
and having a mean lifetime of 2.58*10E-10 
Does this mean that uncle lucas designed this sucker to last less than a second,or is he trying to measure something that lasts less (lot less) than a second?
If the second is true, then why bother ???

Sorry, on to the question.
it seems that the lambda sensor has two parts, a heating element, and a sensor

The heating element should have a resistance of 2.65 to 3.35 ohms
The heater coils also should have 12 V on them 
the sensor part should fluctuate between 0.50V and 1.00V

Now the best part, IF they pass the above specs, and the 
problem still exist, recheck with lucas diagnostic equipment.

I suppose uncle lucas's magic tester will create the problem
so it can be fixed 
 
The manual has some drawings that show how to measure the above, If you
want I could fax them to you.

Russ Burns

> To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net

	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 27 lines)]
> |__|__|__\___            can change the world... indeed, it's the only
> | _|  |   |_ |}          thing that ever has.

------------------------------

From: kbossard@mgdestmx01.erin.gov.au
Date: Wed, 27 Sep 95 12:19:51 EST
Subject: Isuzu Diesel Engines

There has recently been some discussion on the 3.9 Isuzu diesel engine option in 
Australia. The engine used in the 110 is known as the 4BD1 while the version 
used in the 6X6 vehicles (mainly army vehicles known as Perenties) is 
turbocharged and designated 4BD1T. The 6X6 has a diff ratio of 4.7:1 rather than 
3.54:1 in the 110. The Isuzu diesel was only ever coupled to the LT95 gearbox as 
far as I am aware.

KarlB

ph  06 271 2189

fax:  06 273 2395

email: kbossard@mgdestmx01.erin.gov.au

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Sep 1995 19:43:53 -0700
From: jjbpears@ix.netcom.com (Jeremy Bartlett)
Subject: 109 Shocks - Rancho Update

Well I found and fit Rancho shocks to Mathilda, my 109 SW.

The shocks used were:

5164 for the front
5117 for the rear.

According to 4 Wheel Parts Wholesalers in Oakland, CA the 
5164s are no longer available and I got the last of them.  

The ones to use for the front and rear respectively will 
be:

5119
5117

Thanks to all who supplied me with measurements suggested 
part #s etc.

Cheers,

Jeremy

P.S. Damn those rears are a pain to install.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Sep 1995 21:13:42 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Walter C. Swain" <wcswain@wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us>
Subject: Re: LH footwell Heat

On Tue, 26 Sep 1995 johng@iafrica.com wrote:

> Has anyone any suggestions on reducing the heat generated by the 
> exaust  pipe in the LH footwell of a SIIA.  I have spoke to the local landie 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> answer and would like to here from someone who has solved this 
> problem, or at least reduced the problem.

Get the heat shield made for the purpose.  It worked wonders in my 109 IIA.

Walt
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
               Walter C. Swain          |  wcswain@wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us 
               Davis Community Network  |  1988 Range Rover
               Davis, California        |  1967 109 Series IIA Safari SW

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Sep 1995 12:13:33 +0800 (WST)
From: TONY YATES  <tonyy@waalpha.wa.BoM.GOV.AU>
Subject: Re: Isuzu Diesel Engines

> 3.54:1 in the 110. The Isuzu diesel was only ever coupled to the LT95 gearbox as 
> far as I am aware.

I know a couple of people with 5-speed Isuzu powered 110s. Not sure whether
they are LT77 or LT85 though.  I think they have different transfer ratios
due to the slogging truck like nature of the motor.

==========================================================
                                      ()  (  )      ()
Tony Yates                           (  ) (   )    (  )
Bureau of Meteorology               (    )(    ) (      )
Port Hedland                       (       )   )(        )
Western Australia                 (          ) ) --------
                                   ------------
ph:  (091) 401 350                 \\\**\\**\
fax: (091) 401 100                   \***\*\
                                       \\*\
email: A.Yates@bom.gov.au                \\

==========================================================

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Sep 1995 12:23:18 +0800 (WST)
From: TONY YATES  <tonyy@waalpha.wa.BoM.GOV.AU>
Subject: RE: D90 Owners...

On Tue, 26 Sep 1995, Jeff Gauvin wrote:

 D90's do have personalities.  I noticed a rather strange phenomenon on
 my last road trip:  the interior is cooler with the windows closed!
 When you open a window it apparently creates a suction force that draws
 hot air from the bottom the the vehicle through the seat boxes and into
 the cab.  The seat boxes and seats get extremely hot (this can't be good
 for the battery [or seat leather & foam] can it?).  Close the windows
 and everything cools down; seat boxes become cold to the touch!  Weird!

Isn't it just!  I've found the trick is to close the windows and open
the front vents. (Must get the A/C fixed one day...)

==========================================================
                                      ()  (  )      ()
Tony Yates                           (  ) (   )    (  )
Bureau of Meteorology               (    )(    ) (      )
Port Hedland                       (       )   )(        )
Western Australia                 (          ) ) --------
                                   ------------
ph:  (091) 401 350                 \\\**\\**\
fax: (091) 401 100                   \***\*\
                                       \\*\
email: A.Yates@bom.gov.au                \\

==========================================================

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Sep 1995 21:28:19 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Walter C. Swain" <wcswain@wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us>
Subject: Re: Please stop

On Tue, 26 Sep 1995, Wood Bill wrote:

>>>>>> To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net<<<<<

> I've made over a dozen requests to several addresses to remove my name from
> the Land Rover owners mailing list. If anyone knows how to stop this, please
> let me know.

Bill, 

This comes under the general heading of RTFM.  Send the message to 
majordomo@land-rover.team.net.  In the message  write "unsubscribe 
land-rover-owner" and the address you used to subscribe in the first 
place.  

Please bear in mind that the list is provided at no cost to you 
or to any of the rest of us.  Just because you didn't keep the 
information necessary to gracefully unsubscribe is no reason to vent.

If you subscribed using an alias or other variation on your e-mail 
address it will take a while for it to take effect if  you don't use the 
same address.  As a last resort send a note to majordomo-owner and 
politely ask to be taken off the list.
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
               Walter C. Swain          |  wcswain@wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us 
               Davis Community Network  |  1988 Range Rover
               Davis, California        |  1967 109 Series IIA Safari SW

------------------------------

  END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST 
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