[ First Message Last | Table of Contents | <- Digest -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
msg | Sender | lines | Subject |
1 | terje@tvnorge.no (Terje | 13 | Re: RR Swivel pin preloading |
2 | "Bobeck, David R." [dbob | 41 | idling away... |
3 | William Terry [wterry@sa | 19 | For sale - odds |
4 | Guy Arnold [GUY@facade.a | 25 | Frame Oiling |
5 | Paul.Smail@Washcoll.EDU | 6 | index |
6 | burns@lint.cisco.com (Ru | 19 | Re: Frame Oiling |
7 | (Tom Rowe) [trowe@ae.age | 18 | Re: Frame Oiling |
8 | lchung@sdcoe.k12.ca.us ( | 12 | Re: New Discovery |
9 | DEBROWN@SRP.GOV | 50 | Misc. RR problems resolved except one. |
10 | Andrew Grafton [A.J.Graf | 25 | Some additional XCL information. |
11 | matts@cacilj.caciasl.com | 27 | San Diego LR service |
12 | Harincar@mooregs.com (Ti | 27 | Wanted: Vent linkage for IIa |
13 | matts@cacilj.caciasl.com | 13 | Disco auto vs manual |
14 | ross@secant.com (Ross Le | 41 | D90 owners please respond |
15 | Stuart Williams [STUARTW | 27 | RR FAQ / Buyer's Guide? |
16 | John Brabyn [brabyn@skiv | 13 | Re: RR FAQ / Buyer's Guide? |
17 | "William L. Leacock" [75 | 12 | Wavering speedo |
18 | Rob Bailey [baileyr@cuug | 27 | Military 24 Volt Systems... |
19 | Leland J Roys [roys@hpke | 45 | Buying a Def-90 |
20 | TONY YATES [tonyy@waalp | 34 | Re: Frame Oiling |
21 | Dixon Kenner [dkenner@em | 24 | Re: RR FAQ / Buyer's Guide? |
22 | holland@catapent.com (Sh | 21 | Re: Buying a Def-90 |
23 | TONY YATES [tonyy@waalp | 33 | Re: Military 24 Volt Systems... |
24 | DEBROWN@SRP.GOV | 16 | A challenge is offered!! FUN FUN FUN! |
25 | George Reiswig [George_R | 35 | D 90 vs. Isuzu - A Challenge |
26 | George Reiswig [George_R | 15 | [not specified] |
27 | David John Place [umplac | 10 | Servo Units for Ser IIA |
28 | Robert Watson (CNA) [a-r | 56 | RE: A challenge is offered!! FUN FUN FUN! |
29 | Drrover@aol.com | 16 | iterms to sell |
30 | jpappa01@interserv.com | 34 | Re: Beluga |
31 | David Rosenbaum [rosenba | 31 | Re: D90 owners please respond |
32 | "John Y. Liu" [johnliu@e | 28 | Various Questions |
33 | Benjamin Allan Smith [be | 42 | [not specified] |
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 1995 10:34:11 +0200 From: terje@tvnorge.no (Terje Krogdahl) Subject: Re: RR Swivel pin preloading >I have the Workshop Manual for 87 to 91. Which year? 78, but I've got it fixed now. Thanks anyway! Terje K 1972 88" SII >. ------------------------------[ <- Message 2 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950926 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 95 08:03:27 EST From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org> Subject: idling away... Greetings all. Had a superb trip to New Jersey, (the nice part) in my LR, made the 200 mile trip each without any hitches. Lots of open roads and deer. Took her off road for the first time, and after bottoming out a couple of times I felt like I had to fix something. So looking underneath the next day, decided it was time to replace those rusty old fuel tank outriggers.(!) Found a welder in town who agreed to let me work with him, and off they came, and on went the new ones, and some paint, and ta-da, like new. Only question is how does that funny shoulder bolt go on the tank and what the heck does it actually do? Of course now the sad ending to the story. Sunday afternoon I decided to finally install the windshield washer nozzle from AB. Of course they couldnt just give me the little screw in tip, they have to make it a one piece affair that requires disasssembly of the entire dashboard. After that was done I decided to reward myself with a little spin around the block. Unfortunately the LR had other plans. The engine won't keep running! Instead of idling it sort of slowly dies off until it stalls. Choke in, choke out, doesn't matter, warm or cold, same thing. (Warmed it up by continually revving to keep from stalling) Also she started "running on" a bit before I left NJ. Haven't really had a go at it yet so it could be something simple but I'm fishing for ideas here. Ah the joy of it all! Cheers David R. Bobeck Wash DC dbobeck@ushmm.org 72 SerIII 88. 2.25 petrol, "emission control" ------------------------------[ <- Message 3 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950926 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: William Terry <wterry@sartre.minerva.bah.com> Subject: For sale - odds Date: Mon, 25 Sep 1995 07:38:50 -0400 (EDT) - Military convoy disk from IIA front. waxoiled on back. a few scratches in the front. nothing major. best offer. - AM/FM/cassette - AIWA CT-X5300, Dolby B & C, Music scanner, Intro Scan, Radio scan, CD input jack, flip front, removable, have second sheath (I used one stereo for two cars), US$400 new, $150. ______________W__i__l__l__i__a__m_____D__a__n_____T__e__r__r__y______________ How do we acquire wisdom along with all these shiny things? (David Brin) wterry@sartre.minerva.bah.com http://glenfiddich.minerva.bah.com:8062/CyberJungle.html MINERVA Development Team, Booz, Allen & Hamilton ------------------------------[ <- Message 4 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950926 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Guy Arnold <GUY@facade.adm.clarkson.edu> Date: Mon, 25 Sep 1995 09:25:04 EDT Subject: Frame Oiling To all those who are about to oil up your frame for another harsh winter of snow and salt I have a suggestion. I was doing mine this weekend with a product we used at our ski area for years. It is "Open Gear and Wire Rope Lubricant" and it comes in a spray can and is sold by Kendall Oil Co. It sells for about $4.85 US per can. It should take about 3 cans to do a "88" frame. I can testify this stuff is the nastiest stuff you can find. It sticks to anything and is not effected by water. Once it is on, it is on for good. You will need a degreaser to get it off. When appling it I recommend an old pair of coverals and something to cover your head because of the spray will get in your hair. An expendable pair of gloves to protect your hands and a breathing mask so you don't inhale any of the spray. This only good for the outside of the frame. I still use regular used motor oil and gear oil (heated) to spray inside the frame and lots of it. Guy Arnold 1973 Series III swb "Green Machine" 1960 MGA 1600 roadster (show only) ------------------------------[ <- Message 5 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950926 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: 25 Sep 95 09:38:04 EDT From: Paul.Smail@Washcoll.EDU (Paul Smail) Subject: index index lro-digest ------------------------------[ <- Message 6 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950926 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 1995 06:59:04 -0700 From: burns@lint.cisco.com (Russell burns) Subject: Re: Frame Oiling Great stuff, but was is your concern about the inside of the frame? It doesn't creeps as much as would like, but I would think it would do a good job inside also. I am also spraying it on the bulkhead, inside door frames, and other steel parts. Russ Burns> >To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net >To all those who are about to oil up your frame for another harsh [ truncated by lro-digester (was 24 lines)] >1973 Series III swb "Green Machine" >1960 MGA 1600 roadster (show only) Russ Burns________________________________________________________________ CiscoSystems ------------------------------[ <- Message 7 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950926 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 95 09:48:39 EDT From: (Tom Rowe) <trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu> Subject: Re: Frame Oiling On Mon, 25 Sept Guy Arnold wrote: Snip >any of the spray. This only good for the outside of the frame. I >still use regular used motor oil and gear oil (heated) to spray >inside the frame and lots of it. I'm sure you've been using it for years with success, but for those of us who are compulsive, used motor oil contains contaminants from use that will attack steel. Acids and such like. Tom Rowe UW-Center for Dairy Research Madison, WI | Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck 608-265-6194 | in places even more inaccessible. ------------------------------[ <- Message 8 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950926 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 1995 07:51:24 -0700 From: lchung@sdcoe.k12.ca.us (Tarek El Rashidy+Luz Chung) Subject: Re: New Discovery Thanks to all of you who took the time to answer my (long) list of questions on the new Discovery. The answers covered everything we wanted to know on this vehicle, including fuel octane, braking, servicing, salepeople, pricing and even a comparaison in acceleration with the LandCruiser. Thanks again! :-) Regards, tarek. ------------------------------[ <- Message 9 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950926 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 95 10:17:06 MST From: DEBROWN@SRP.GOV Subject: Misc. RR problems resolved except one. FROM: David Brown Internet: debrown@srp.gov Computer Graphics Specialist * Mapping Services & Engr Graphics PAB219 (602)236-3544 - Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486 SUBJECT: Misc. RR problems resolved except one. A *big* thanks to all who have responded to my problems that I reported with the '87 RR I just got. In summary, the problems are solutions are as follows: Coolant light (losing coolant). Replaced radiator cap. Now the light only flashes a bit when cold. Good enough for me! ;-) Brake light constantly on. Loosened the pressure sensing switch on the side of the master cyl, and then retightened. Light works normally now. ;-) Speedometer not working. Bought a new "angle drive", then fixed my old one and it now works great. (Now, to take the $80 part back to the dealer...) ;-) Only remaining problem... the "no power" thing. I took it to the dealer, where they replaced some hoses related to the emission system, and reset the timing. (I also tightened up every ground that I could find.) This is somewhat better. .. but now that I've owned it a while, and taken a trip to San Diego (from Phoenix) over the weekend (around 900 miles round trip, avg. 15.5 MPG) there seems to be a remaining (or new) problem. At speeds of over 50 MPH it surges very badly. This didn't start until the return trip, and seems to have gotten progressively worse. Again, full power is fine, and mostly over around 82 MPH works fine, but from around 50-80 it surged very badly. It seems like ignition, as if you were turning off and on the key. (very abrupt.) I thought for a bit that maybe the locking torque converter was locking/unlocking but when I slowed to around 50 and put it in 3rd it still did it. :-( Very light touch of the gas petal seemed to keep the surging to a minimum, as well as full throttle. I pulled the plugs, all looked okay (#2 plug had carbon buildup on one side only, must be exhaust valve side?) Anyone else have this? Or have any suggestions? (Again, replaced fuel pump, water temp senser, throttle potentiometer (sp?), fuel filter.) Thanks!!! #=======# Never doubt that a small group of individuals |__|__|__\___ can change the world... indeed, it's the only | _| | |_ |} thing that ever has. "(_)""""""(_)" -Margaret Mead ------------------------------[ <- Message 10 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950926 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Andrew Grafton <A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk> Subject: Some additional XCL information. Date: Mon, 25 Sep 95 18:31:34 BST Just though I would drop a note to say the following, in case it is useful to anyone still fretting about the possibility of buying Michelin XCL tyres; * Ours have done 5K miles now and are developing little scalloping or other forms of uneven wear, unlike the old Firestone T&Cs. * I can confirm (blushing) that they will dig deep holes very quickly if you let them spin on sand... * Wet-weather on-road performance is surprisingly good for a tyre with such big treadblocks (it's rained here now). * They've done a fair few miles offroad now and seem nicely resistant to cuts, scuffing and sidewall damage. Just in case anyone's interested. All the best, Andy A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk ------------------------------[ <- Message 11 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950926 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 1995 11:03:27 -0700 From: matts@cacilj.caciasl.com (Matt Snyder) Subject: San Diego LR service Good choice asking questions here, you should get plenty of advice. I'm not a Disco owner, but I also live in San Diego, and so far I've found service at Pioneer to be competitively priced. By this, I mean their hourly rates compare well with that of other specially trained technicians. Land Rovers are exceptional in more ways than one, i.e. an average U.S. mechanic will be surprised and confused by what he finds under the hood. It takes some training and/or experience to work on them, for which you should expect to pay a little more. I know Pioneer has some competition in the Land Rover service market, because they're always telling me why I should come to them instead of the competition, but I'm not quite sure who this competition is. The Yellow Pages lists an independent shop under Range Rover, but I haven't investigated them. I did a database querry on Compuserve and learned that the place was, at least until recently, a parts dealer. It might be that Pioneer is worried about competition from the L.A. area. BTW, I understand there's a British car meet at the Del Mar fairgrounds on October 1. I plan to be there. The fellow that recently started the Southern California Land Rover club plans to be there, with a sign. -Matt ------------------------------[ <- Message 12 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950926 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Harincar@mooregs.com (Tim Harincar) Date: Mon, 25 Sep 1995 13:01:06 -0700 Subject: Wanted: Vent linkage for IIa Hello. Last weekend I broke the linkage arm on one of my vents at the knob. I was trying to get the knob off so I could clean up the locking plate (the piece that bolts to the dash that the arm slides into to hold the vent in place), which was beginning to rust. If anyone has one on their parts IIa or in a spares box, let me know and how much you'd want for it. Any tips on getting the knob off the other one so I don't break that one too are greatly appreciated. Or if you just have a spare knob to send along, I'll just cut the old one off so I can remove the plate. Thanks, Tim --- tim harincar moore graphic services harincar@mooregs.com minneapolis, mn '66 IIa 88 SW ------------------------------[ <- Message 13 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950926 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 1995 11:37:36 -0700 From: matts@cacilj.caciasl.com (Matt Snyder) Subject: Disco auto vs manual > LandRover did a great job with the automatic transmission giving it > the proper gearing, and the ability to lock the transmision in low low. > The engine breaking is fantastic for an auto, and as good as most I concur, engine breaking from my '88 RR automatic is unbelievable, esp. in low low. -Matt ------------------------------[ <- Message 14 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950926 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: ross@secant.com (Ross Leidy) Date: Mon, 25 Sep 95 15:34:12 0500 Subject: D90 owners please respond Hello LRO's I am a complete newcomer to the 4wd scene, and I'm conteplating the purchase of a '95 Defender 90. I plan on using the vehicle as my primary means of transportation, and, although I am interested in taking it off-road, it will probably get most of its use running around town. I've test-driven the vehicle so I know what I'm in for as far as fit/finish/noise, etc. Had the Defender not been quite so pricey, I would not be at all hesitant to buy one. However, if I was reasonably certain that it was generally reliable and things wouldn't be falling apart one week after the warantee expired, I would be less reluctant. Although the D90 was just introduced here in the US in 1994, I would be interested in hearing owners' experiences with regards to "frequency of repair". Any input from D90 owners would be greatly appreciated. The local LR dealership (Cleveland, OH) let me drive one for an entire day, and I found that except for tire/engine/wind noise the D90 was surprisingly rattle-and-squeak-free with one major exception. The spare-tire carrier produced a very loud chatter when driving over even the slightest bumps. With the vehicle parked, I was able to reproduce the sound by racking the spare back-and-forth, but I couldn't pinpoint where the sound was coming from. I'm curious if anyone has experienced this same behaviour and whether or not the carrier can be adjusted to eliminate the noise. I could ask the dealer, but I'm pretty sure he would just tell me what I want to hear (not neccessarily the truth). ;) Thanks in advance for any comments. Ross Leidy ross@secant.com P.S. If Stephen O'Hearn is reading this, thanks for your email to me last year. I'm embarrased to say that I haven't made the purchase yet. I do have quite a few dealer brochures and magazine articles that have drool marks all over. :) ------------------------------[ <- Message 15 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950926 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Stuart Williams <STUARTW@po1.net.cho.ge.com> Subject: RR FAQ / Buyer's Guide? Date: Mon, 25 Sep 95 16:30:00 EDT All, I'm in the *early* stages of looking for a reasonably priced, reasonably maintained used Rangie ('88 or '89) to replace my '85 Land Cruiser. No, I'm not quite ready to buy but the wife says 'yes' and I don't want to lose the momentum! I've seen FAQ lists and other excellent postings about what to look for in used Land Rover Series vehicles but I haven't seen the equivalent for Range Rovers. By lurking on this list I've learned a few things to watch out for (tailgate rust, steering box failures, misc leaks, etc) and other useful if unbelievable tidbits (like power seat switch parts being cheaper at the local Mercedes dealer) but I was wondering if anybody out there has put together a buying guide for used Rangies or maybe a list of the known trouble spots and their associated fixes ... Any and all help would be appreciated! Stuart Williams '95 Discovery 'Great White' ------------------------------[ <- Message 16 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950926 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 1995 14:08:33 -0700 (PDT) From: John Brabyn <brabyn@skivs.ski.org> Subject: Re: RR FAQ / Buyer's Guide? Sounds like it's time for a RR FAQ, doesn't it? I don't know how it's done, but would be willing to contribute. Cheers John Brabyn 89RR ------------------------------[ <- Message 17 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950926 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: 25 Sep 95 17:12:46 EDT From: "William L. Leacock" <75473.3572@compuserve.com> Subject: Wavering speedo Trevor Easton wrote re wavering speedo and recieved some good advise as to the source. I would add that whilst ckecking the tightness of the gearbox output shaft nut you should also check the radial plat in the output taper roller bearing and if necessary adjust the shims and replace the oil seal. Bill Leacock Limey in exile. ------------------------------[ <- Message 18 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950926 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 1995 16:03:21 -0600 (MDT) From: Rob Bailey <baileyr@cuug.ab.ca> Subject: Military 24 Volt Systems... Some more questions: 1) Has anybody ever converted a 24 V alternator (generator?) from a FFR Lightweight over to 12 V? How about converting the 24 V water proof ignition over to 12 V? 2) How can you tell when a 2.25L petrol engine is a 5 bolt main (other than tearing the pan off!)? 3) Has anybody made a hoop set for a canvas soft top for an 88" before? It looks as though it wouldn't be too hard to make something that would work, and it would be quite a bit cheaper than purchasing a new one. 4) Are PTO winches that fit a series LR easily found? I have a forward pointing PTO on the transfer case. Or is it just easier to get an electric one? I would have to upgrade my generator (an old 22 amp one) and convert to neg. ground, I expect. Suggestions? Thanks, Rob ------------------------------[ <- Message 19 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950926 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Leland J Roys <roys@hpkel13.cup.hp.com> Subject: Buying a Def-90 Date: Mon, 25 Sep 95 15:08:20 PDT Hello Ross Leidy, In response to your question on buying a Def-90. I purchased a Def-90 about 5 months ago, and have since used to: a. Commute to work 30 miles a day. b. Go off-road (Utah, Mendicino etc.) c. Look at, and smile once a day. My blunt response to your question is: Buy a Discovery instead, if you mostly are going to drive on the freeways (i.e. commute to work). I found out (and expected) that the Def-90 is purely an off-road vehicle and that is where it is truely happy and at home. When commuting to work, the wind/tire/ engine noice is very loud, and is slowly driving me insane, almost to the point where I am going to buy a small commute car to get to work and leave the Def-90 at home (for off-road use only!). Don't get me wrong. I love the Def-90 and would not trade it in for a Disco even if I took no loss, however, I bought it for different reasons, some of them are: 1. I like the "weird" nature of the truck and the fact that you do not see 1 million of them on the roads every day. 2. I wanted something that could really go off-road and not get torn to hell (Like my previous Toyota 4runner did). 3. I like the fact that other people at work think I am insane for buying such a weird truck. But to summarize, If you plan to spend %80 of your time on the freeway, you will probably be much happier in a quieter, more comfy Discovery. Or, if you want to get a truck that you can coat with mud, inside and out and then spray out with a hose, get the Def-90. Leland Roys Cupertino Ca 1994 Def-90 (Red) ------------------------------[ <- Message 20 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950926 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 26 Sep 1995 07:17:16 +0800 (WST) From: TONY YATES <tonyy@waalpha.wa.BoM.GOV.AU> Subject: Re: Frame Oiling > >any of the spray. This only good for the outside of the frame. I > >still use regular used motor oil and gear oil (heated) to spray > >inside the frame and lots of it. > I'm sure you've been using it for years with success, but for those of us who are compulsive, used motor oil contains contaminants from use that will attack steel. Acids and such like. Boy, am I glad it doesn't snow here. In fact the annual average rainfall is only 300mm (12 in). Rust? What's that? BTW thanks for all the replies about come-a-longs. Don't think you can get them in Oz, at least I have never seen them, Tirfor type hand winches seem to be the go but they are quite ($700) expensive. There is a Chinese made copy floating around for about half that, anyone in Oz had any experience with that one? Cheers. ========================================================== () ( ) () Tony Yates ( ) ( ) ( ) Bureau of Meteorology ( )( ) ( ) Port Hedland ( ) )( ) Western Australia ( ) ) -------- ------------ ph: (091) 401 350 \\\**\\**\ fax: (091) 401 100 \***\*\ \\*\ email: A.Yates@bom.gov.au \\ ========================================================== ------------------------------[ <- Message 21 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950926 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 1995 19:25:22 -0400 (EDT) From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.emr.ca> Subject: Re: RR FAQ / Buyer's Guide? On Mon, 25 Sep 1995, John Brabyn wrote: > Sounds like it's time for a RR FAQ, doesn't it? 1. How do you tell them apart? (various years) 2. What were the different configurations and options? 3. What do you look for when you buy one? (rust etc) Always said I'd add the bits to the FAQ, but I can't tell Defenders apart really either. As mentioned before, FAQ is heavily Series oriented which reflects what is running around here for the most part. (BTW, newer version of FAQ will be out soon, promise... Last is 2 years old now) Rgds, Dixon ------------------------------[ <- Message 22 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950926 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 1995 16:34:20 -0800 From: holland@catapent.com (Shannon Holland) Subject: Re: Buying a Def-90 >My blunt response to your question is: Buy a Discovery instead, if you mostly >are going to drive on the freeways (i.e. commute to work). I found out (and [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)] >point where I am going to buy a small commute car to get to work and leave >the Def-90 at home (for off-road use only!). Ross, I would seriouisly recomend getting the plastic hard top (or waiting a little for the aluminum top if you can get one). I got the hard top and am very happy with it. I pretty much use it to commute to work most days and do a fair bit of freeway driving (along with the obvious off-road use!). The Discovery may make more sense if you really want something more comfortable, but test drive a hard top D90 first! Shannon ------------------------------[ <- Message 23 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950926 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 26 Sep 1995 07:35:20 +0800 (WST) From: TONY YATES <tonyy@waalpha.wa.BoM.GOV.AU> Subject: Re: Military 24 Volt Systems... On Mon, 25 Sep 1995, Rob Bailey wrote: > 3) Has anybody made a hoop set for a canvas soft top for an 88" before? > It looks as though it wouldn't be too hard to make something that would > work, and it would be quite a bit cheaper than purchasing a new one. Yes - I made a frame out of stainless steel pipe and copper pipe fittings. It was constructed so as to be easy to dismantle and store in the back of the truck. Only problem with it was that the top was flat rather than curved which meant the rain would not run off if it was standing. Still, it did the job for 5 years and cost $50. If I was doing it again I would probably have a roll cage made to fit the canvas. Cheers. ========================================================== () ( ) () Tony Yates ( ) ( ) ( ) Bureau of Meteorology ( )( ) ( ) Port Hedland ( ) )( ) Western Australia ( ) ) -------- ------------ ph: (091) 401 350 \\\**\\**\ fax: (091) 401 100 \***\*\ \\*\ email: A.Yates@bom.gov.au \\ ========================================================== ------------------------------[ <- Message 24 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950926 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 95 17:01:30 MST From: DEBROWN@SRP.GOV Subject: A challenge is offered!! FUN FUN FUN! FROM: David Brown Internet: debrown@srp.gov Computer Graphics Specialist * Mapping Services & Engr Graphics PAB219 (602)236-3544 - Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486 SUBJECT: A challenge is offered!! FUN FUN FUN! I came across this on the "offroad" mailing list. Any takers?? I'd *LOVE* to see this guy eat his words. A D90 against an Amigo??? Is he nuts?? (Obviously so!) Come on! Someone's got to educate this poor sod! Begin included message... ------------------------------[ <- Message 25 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950926 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 95 10:24:00 PDT From: George Reiswig <George_Reiswig@ccm.jf.intel.com> Subject: D 90 vs. Isuzu - A Challenge Someone wrote: >I don't read the Industry sponsored magazines, but the guy who wrote >to the digest recently had it wrong. [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)] >A D-90? No way Isuzu. >Joe Isuzu....you've got to be kidding! While I don't have a Trooper, I do have an Amigo. If anyone in the Portland, OR area has a D-90 and would like to demonstrate how much better their vehicle is than mine, I would be most interested in doing some trails with you. I'm sure my Amigo would out-perform a stock D-90, but I'm open to be proven wrong. I do think Isuzus are generally underrated. I tried to set up such a comparison with the local LR dealer, but for "liability reasons," they wouldn't let my vehicle on the course at the dealership. Heck, I couldn't even drive their own D-90 on their own course...the salesman had to drive! The D-90's claim to fame for offroading is good suspension travel, as I understand it. Last year, at the Southwest Four Wheel Drive Association Winter Quarterly, my Amigo scored a 585 on the RTI. Not great, but Four Wheeler rates the D-90 at 550 RTI, and the other Rovers aren't that much better. So, anyone up for a challenge? I promise not to use my ARB! GR ------------------------------[ <- Message 26 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950926 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
End included message.... I was talking with a D90 owner last week who has front & rear ARB, and he said that while the D90 was great before, it's *awesome* now! (paraphrased.) Anyone in the Portland OR got a fully locked D90? I'd *love* to see this!! #=======# Never doubt that a small group of individuals |__|__|__\___ can change the world... indeed, it's the only | _| | |_ |} thing that ever has. "(_)""""""(_)" -Margaret Mead ------------------------------[ <- Message 27 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950926 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 1995 19:34:47 -0500 (CDT) From: David John Place <umplace@cc.UManitoba.CA> Subject: Servo Units for Ser IIA I just finished reading the brake system section of the Austin Marina shop manual. Both it and the Land Rover use Girling Supervac Servo units. It looks like the drawings are from the Girling company because they are identical at least by pictoral view. I am going to try to find an old Austin one and try it on the Land Rover. Dave VE4PN ------------------------------[ <- Message 28 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950926 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Robert Watson (CNA) <a-robw@microsoft.com> Date: Mon, 25 Sep 95 18:15:45 TZ Subject: RE: A challenge is offered!! FUN FUN FUN! I don't have a D-90, but I have a (stock, no lockers, fancy tires, etc) Disco, and I live in the Seattle area (3 hrs from Portland). I'd be interested in comparing capabilities if there are some other takers (like a D-90, or 2). I haven't gone trail-riding with any Amigo's, nor do I have anything bad to say about them. They just didn't have the seating capacity I needed for the "on-road" duties it must perform (i.e. taxiing the kids). WRT the RTI, They drive one side of a truck up a ramp as far as it can go, then put that distance into some formula to take into account wheelbase, etc. That's good for a statistic, but IMHO, all it really indicates is rear axle travel since that's the last wheel to leave the ground. What impresses me about the LR products in the undercarriage dept. is cross-axle travel. On my Disco I can have the right front tire and the left rear tire each on one of those drive-up ramps (about 9" high) and all 4 tires are still in contact of the ground (or ramp as the case may be). Out of curiousity, can the Amigo do that without lockers? My Jeep Wrangler could only go about 3" before tires would start spinning. What this translates to in "real-life" (i.e. off road) is less wheel spin, better traction and a smoother ride. Which suits my needs just fine. -- Bob W. defending (disco-ing?!) the King's honor :-) [Begin challenge] While I don't have a Trooper, I do have an Amigo. If anyone in the Portland, OR area has a D-90 and would like to demonstrate how much better their vehicle is than mine, I would be most interested in doing some trails with you. I'm sure my Amigo would out-perform a stock D-90, but I'm open to be proven wrong. I do think Isuzus are generally underrated. I tried to set up such a comparison with the local LR dealer, but for "liability reasons," they wouldn't let my vehicle on the course at the dealership. Heck, I couldn't even drive their own D-90 on their own course...the salesman had to drive! The D-90's claim to fame for offroading is good suspension travel, as I understand it. Last year, at the Southwest Four Wheel Drive Association Winter Quarterly, my Amigo scored a 585 on the RTI. Not great, but Four Wheeler rates the D-90 at 550 RTI, and the other Rovers aren't that much better. So, anyone up for a challenge? I promise not to use my ARB! GR [End Challenge] ------------------------------[ <- Message 29 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950926 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Drrover@aol.com Date: Mon, 25 Sep 1995 22:57:08 -0400 Subject: iterms to sell hi everyone i have some parts to sell used and new *high performance spark plug wire (all LR) *sets of four alloy wheels discovery patern *sets of four michelin tyres 235/70/16 *K&N air filter *spare tire cover w/ LR scrip *discovery stock shocks *all LR high performance shocks all inquiry please send e mail to Dr Rover thx:) ------------------------------[ <- Message 30 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950926 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: jpappa01@interserv.com Date: Mon, 25 Sep 95 20:10:15 PDT Subject: Re: Beluga Seems to be some confusion or disinformation about beluga black and Discovery. To set the record straight: Beluga Black paint is a $300 option - available on *ALL* 1996 Discoveries - regardless of model - SD, SE, SE7, auto or stick. Including base stick shift model. This *IS* different from 1995, where the black was not available on the base stick shift - actually only white, red, and conniston green were offered on the 1995 base stick - but for 1996 the base stick is available in all colors... Black is a $300 extra cost color on all Land Rovers - Disco, Range Rover Classic, Range Rover 4.0SE, and Defender 90. The only model which does not charge for the extra color is the 4.6 HSE. The 4.6 is available (in NA) *ONLY* in two colors - Beluga Black and Rioja Red - both with Ash Black interiors... Hope this helps... cheerz Jim - where the hell's my 88? `67 2A 88 5.0L hybrid `67 2A 109 5.0L hybrid `68 2B 110 F/C diesel `70 P6B 3500S `90 Range Rover County `93 D110 #457/500 `95 D90 #1958 ------------------------------[ <- Message 31 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950926 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 1995 21:04:40 -0700 (PDT) From: David Rosenbaum <rosenbau@u.washington.edu> Subject: Re: D90 owners please respond Dear Ross, I have owned my '94 D90 since Dec. 1993, and *love* it. My only problems were early on when the dealer had difficulty installing some accessories (rear seat, winch), but mine was the first they had done and the instructions from Land Rover were sketchy. Most of my time in the D90 is spent on pavement, in the suburbs and city of Seattle (commuting to work to *pay* for the thing!) and I enjoy being able to take the top off and windows out and sitting high enough to look out over the traffic -- to the mountains where I wish I was heading. My other cars are a '55 Chevy (cost $1000) and a '66 Scout (cost $425, then another $4k to fix up and it's still BAD) so the expense of buying the D90 made me nervous about such an outlay. But it has been supremely reliable, lots of fun, and absolutely great when I have had it off road. My advice is to buy one if it is possible for you to do so, I you *like* them. They are unique and if you buy something else, I suspect that you may always feel a sense of loss when you see one, etc. Mine had a rattle coming from the rear tire carrier, which I found was due to a loose lug-nut: easy fix. Several months ago, somebody posted a more serious problem with their rear tire carrier (leaking grease maybe?) And Land Rovers DO have personalities: which *may* include unique squeeks and/or leaks. Best wishes, David ------------------------------[ <- Message 32 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950926 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 1995 20:59:52 -0700 From: "John Y. Liu" <johnliu@earthlink.net> Subject: Various Questions Well, the swivel balls finally got rebuilt and Rover is back on the road, all leaks sealed up and feeling frisky. The steering is much tighter (although I'm not used to it yet and have been weaving around the road a touch) and there's not even a smidgen of play at the swivels. She seems to need an alignment as there's less self-centering than there used to be, but it's not very noticeable. However, during the last week of sitting cross-legged under the fenders (sorry, wings) reverentially wiping greasy bits with clean rags, I had altogether too much time to ponder the next project. I think it's destined to be the springs, shocks and tires. Get all the underpinnings sorted out together, you know. Here's the questions. I can't raise the truck more than an inch (preferably not at all), or it won't fit in my carport with a roof rack. Will new springs raise a Rover? Can anyone suggest an economical source for new road springs (for delivery to Los Angeles)? And should I use the regular black rubber bushes or look for those polyurethane bushes that are brightly colored like popsicle sticks? Finally, besides penetrating oil, a hacksaw, heat, and a big hammer, are there any magic tricks for extracting and inserting bushings? Thanks! ------------------------------[ <- Message 33 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950926 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Subject: Re: Various Questions Date: Mon, 25 Sep 1995 22:27:08 -0700 From: Benjamin Allan Smith <bens@archimedes.vislab.navy.mil> In message <199509260506.AAA17959@butler.uk.stratus.com>you wrote: > Here's the questions. I can't raise the truck more than an inch (preferably > not at all), or it won't fit in my carport with a roof rack. Will new > springs raise a Rover? It depends upon how tired your current springs are. Measure the distance between the axle and the bottom of the bumpstops. The compare versus that which is noted in the factory and/or Hayes manual. The difference will be how much height you will gain. Can anyone suggest an economical source for new road springs (for delivery to Los Angeles)? Drive upto (or call British Pacific in Burbank). I've had lots of of success with them. British Pacific 3317 Burton Avenue, Burbank, CA Orders: 1-800-554-4133 Customer Service: 818-841-8945 Fax: 818-841-3825 (availible 24 hours) Business Hours (Pacific Time): Monday-Friday; 9:00am-6:00pm Saturday: 9:00am-12:00am Closed Sundays and Major US Holidays Superwinch Dealer Carries Genuine, OEM and Aftermarket parts ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Benjamin Smith------------bens@vislab.navy.mil---------1972 Land Rover SIII 88 Science Applications International Corporation Naval Air Warfare Center, Weapons Division, China Lake "...If I were running such a contest, I would specifically eliminate any entry from Ben involving driving the [Land] Rover anywhere. He'd drive it up the Amazon basin for a half can of Jolt and a stale cookie..." --Kevin Archie ------------------------------[ <- Message 34 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950926 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
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