Land Rover Owner Message Digest Contents


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The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

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msgSender linesSubject
1 terje@tvnorge.no (Terje 13Re: RR Swivel pin preloading
2 "Bobeck, David R." [dbob41idling away...
3 William Terry [wterry@sa19For sale - odds
4 Guy Arnold [GUY@facade.a25Frame Oiling
5 Paul.Smail@Washcoll.EDU 6index
6 burns@lint.cisco.com (Ru19Re: Frame Oiling
7 (Tom Rowe) [trowe@ae.age18Re: Frame Oiling
8 lchung@sdcoe.k12.ca.us (12Re: New Discovery
9 DEBROWN@SRP.GOV 50Misc. RR problems resolved except one.
10 Andrew Grafton [A.J.Graf25Some additional XCL information.
11 matts@cacilj.caciasl.com27San Diego LR service
12 Harincar@mooregs.com (Ti27Wanted: Vent linkage for IIa
13 matts@cacilj.caciasl.com13Disco auto vs manual
14 ross@secant.com (Ross Le41D90 owners please respond
15 Stuart Williams [STUARTW27RR FAQ / Buyer's Guide?
16 John Brabyn [brabyn@skiv13Re: RR FAQ / Buyer's Guide?
17 "William L. Leacock" [7512Wavering speedo
18 Rob Bailey [baileyr@cuug27Military 24 Volt Systems...
19 Leland J Roys [roys@hpke45Buying a Def-90
20 TONY YATES [tonyy@waalp34Re: Frame Oiling
21 Dixon Kenner [dkenner@em24Re: RR FAQ / Buyer's Guide?
22 holland@catapent.com (Sh21Re: Buying a Def-90
23 TONY YATES [tonyy@waalp33Re: Military 24 Volt Systems...
24 DEBROWN@SRP.GOV 16A challenge is offered!! FUN FUN FUN!
25 George Reiswig [George_R35D 90 vs. Isuzu - A Challenge
26 George Reiswig [George_R15[not specified]
27 David John Place [umplac10Servo Units for Ser IIA
28 Robert Watson (CNA) [a-r56RE: A challenge is offered!! FUN FUN FUN!
29 Drrover@aol.com 16iterms to sell
30 jpappa01@interserv.com 34Re: Beluga
31 David Rosenbaum [rosenba31Re: D90 owners please respond
32 "John Y. Liu" [johnliu@e28Various Questions
33 Benjamin Allan Smith [be42[not specified]


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Date: Mon, 25 Sep 1995 10:34:11 +0200
From: terje@tvnorge.no (Terje Krogdahl)
Subject: Re: RR Swivel pin preloading

>I have the Workshop Manual for 87 to 91.  Which year?

78, but I've got it fixed now. Thanks anyway!

Terje K
1972 88" SII

>.

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Date: Mon, 25 Sep 95 08:03:27 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: idling away...

          Greetings all.
          Had a superb trip to New Jersey, (the nice part)
          in my LR, made the 200 mile trip each without any
          hitches. Lots of open roads and deer. Took her off
          road for the first time, and after bottoming out
          a couple of times I felt like I had to fix
          something. So looking underneath the next day,
          decided it was time to replace those rusty old
          fuel tank outriggers.(!) Found a welder in town
          who agreed to let me work with him, and off they
          came, and on went the new ones, and some paint,
          and ta-da, like new. Only question is how does
          that funny shoulder bolt go on the tank and what
          the heck does it actually do?
          Of course now the sad ending to the story.
          Sunday afternoon I decided to finally install the
          windshield washer nozzle from AB. Of course they
          couldnt just give me the little screw in tip, they
          have to make it a one piece affair that requires
          disasssembly of the entire dashboard. After that
          was done I decided to reward myself with a little
          spin around the block.  Unfortunately the LR had
          other plans. The engine won't keep running!
          Instead of idling it sort of slowly dies off until
          it stalls. Choke in, choke out, doesn't matter,
          warm or cold, same thing. (Warmed it up by
          continually revving to keep from stalling)
          Also she started "running on" a bit before
          I left NJ. Haven't really had a go at it yet so it
          could be something simple but I'm fishing for
          ideas here.  Ah the joy of it all!
          Cheers
          David R. Bobeck
          Wash DC
          dbobeck@ushmm.org
          72 SerIII 88. 2.25 petrol, "emission control"

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From: William Terry <wterry@sartre.minerva.bah.com>
Subject: For sale - odds
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 1995 07:38:50 -0400 (EDT)

- Military convoy disk from IIA front. waxoiled on back. a few scratches in 
the front. nothing major. best offer.

- AM/FM/cassette - AIWA CT-X5300, Dolby B & C, Music scanner, Intro Scan, 
Radio scan, CD input jack, flip front, removable, have second sheath (I 
used one stereo for two cars), US$400 new, $150.

______________W__i__l__l__i__a__m_____D__a__n_____T__e__r__r__y______________
  How do we acquire wisdom along with all these shiny things? (David Brin)

  wterry@sartre.minerva.bah.com
  http://glenfiddich.minerva.bah.com:8062/CyberJungle.html
  MINERVA Development Team, Booz, Allen & Hamilton

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From: Guy Arnold <GUY@facade.adm.clarkson.edu>
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 1995 09:25:04 EDT
Subject: Frame Oiling

To all those who are about to oil up your frame for another harsh 
winter of snow and salt I have a suggestion. I was doing mine this 
weekend with a product we used at our ski area for years. It is "Open 
Gear and Wire Rope Lubricant" and it comes in a spray can and is sold 
by Kendall Oil Co. It sells for about $4.85 US per can. It should 
take about 3 cans to do a "88" frame.
I can testify this stuff is the nastiest stuff you can find. It 
sticks to anything and is not effected by water. Once it is on, it is 
on for good. You will need a degreaser to get it off. When appling it 
I recommend an old pair of coverals and something to cover your head 
because of the spray will get in your hair. An expendable pair of 
gloves to protect your hands and a breathing mask so you don't inhale 
any of the spray. This only good for the outside of the frame. I 
still use regular used motor oil and gear oil (heated) to spray 
inside the frame and lots of it. 

Guy Arnold 
1973 Series III swb "Green Machine"
1960 MGA 1600 roadster (show only)

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Date: 25 Sep 95 09:38:04 EDT
From: Paul.Smail@Washcoll.EDU (Paul Smail)
Subject: index

index lro-digest

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Date: Mon, 25 Sep 1995 06:59:04 -0700
From: burns@lint.cisco.com (Russell burns)
Subject: Re: Frame Oiling

Great stuff,
but was is your concern about the inside of the frame?
It doesn't creeps as much as  would like, but I would think
it would do a good job inside also. I am also spraying it on
the bulkhead, inside door frames, and other steel parts.

Russ Burns>
>To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net
>To all those who are about to oil up your frame for another harsh 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 24 lines)]
>1973 Series III swb "Green Machine"
>1960 MGA 1600 roadster (show only)
Russ Burns________________________________________________________________
CiscoSystems

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Date: Mon, 25 Sep 95 09:48:39 EDT
From: (Tom Rowe) <trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu>
Subject: Re: Frame Oiling

On Mon, 25 Sept Guy Arnold wrote:

Snip
>any of the spray. This only good for the outside of the frame. I 
>still use regular used motor oil and gear oil (heated) to spray 
>inside the frame and lots of it. 

I'm sure you've been using it for years with success, but for those of us who are compulsive, used motor oil contains contaminants from use that will attack steel. Acids and such like.

Tom Rowe
UW-Center for Dairy Research
Madison, WI                    | Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck
608-265-6194                  | in places even more inaccessible.

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Date: Mon, 25 Sep 1995 07:51:24 -0700
From: lchung@sdcoe.k12.ca.us (Tarek El Rashidy+Luz Chung)
Subject: Re: New Discovery

Thanks to all of you who took the time to answer my (long) list of questions
on the new Discovery. The answers covered everything we wanted to know on
this vehicle, including fuel octane, braking, servicing, salepeople, pricing
and even a comparaison in acceleration with the LandCruiser. Thanks again! :-)
Regards,

tarek.

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Date: Mon, 25 Sep 95 10:17:06 MST
From: DEBROWN@SRP.GOV
Subject: Misc. RR problems resolved except one.

FROM:  David Brown                           Internet: debrown@srp.gov
       Computer Graphics Specialist * Mapping Services & Engr Graphics
       PAB219 (602)236-3544 -  Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486
SUBJECT: Misc. RR problems resolved except one.
A *big* thanks to all who have responded to my problems that I reported with
the '87 RR I just got. In summary, the problems are solutions are as
follows:

Coolant light (losing coolant). Replaced radiator cap. Now the light only
flashes a bit when cold. Good enough for me! ;-)

Brake light constantly on. Loosened the pressure sensing switch on the side
of the master cyl, and then retightened. Light works normally now. ;-)

Speedometer not working. Bought a new "angle drive", then fixed my old one
and it now works great. (Now, to take the $80 part back to the dealer...)
;-)

Only remaining problem... the "no power" thing. I took it to the dealer,
where they replaced some hoses related to the emission system, and reset the
timing. (I also tightened up every ground that I could find.) This is
somewhat better. .. but now that I've owned it a while, and taken a trip to
San Diego (from Phoenix) over the weekend (around 900 miles round trip, avg.
15.5 MPG) there seems to be a remaining (or new) problem. At speeds of over
50 MPH it surges very badly. This didn't start until the return trip, and
seems to have gotten progressively worse. Again, full power is fine, and
mostly over around 82 MPH works fine, but from around 50-80 it surged very
badly. It seems like ignition, as if you were turning off and on the key.
(very abrupt.) I thought for a bit that maybe the locking torque converter
was locking/unlocking but when I slowed to around 50 and put it in 3rd it
still did it. :-(

Very light touch of the gas petal seemed to keep the surging to a minimum,
as well as full throttle. I pulled the plugs, all looked okay (#2 plug had
carbon buildup on one side only, must be exhaust valve side?)

Anyone else have this? Or have any suggestions? (Again, replaced fuel pump,
water temp senser, throttle potentiometer (sp?), fuel filter.)

Thanks!!!

#=======#                Never doubt that a small group of individuals
|__|__|__\___            can change the world... indeed, it's the only
| _|  |   |_ |}          thing that ever has.
"(_)""""""(_)"                                          -Margaret Mead

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From: Andrew Grafton <A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk>
Subject: Some additional XCL information.
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 95 18:31:34 BST

Just though I would drop a note to say the following, in case it is 
useful to anyone still fretting about the possibility of buying 
Michelin XCL tyres;

* Ours have done 5K miles now and are developing little scalloping or 
  other forms of uneven wear, unlike the old Firestone T&Cs.
* I can confirm (blushing) that they will dig deep holes very quickly
  if you let them spin on sand...
* Wet-weather on-road performance is surprisingly good for a tyre with 
  such big treadblocks (it's rained here now).
* They've done a fair few miles offroad now and seem nicely resistant
  to cuts, scuffing and sidewall damage.

Just in case anyone's interested.

All the best,

Andy
A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk

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Date: Mon, 25 Sep 1995 11:03:27 -0700
From: matts@cacilj.caciasl.com (Matt Snyder)
Subject: San Diego LR service

Good choice asking questions here, you should get plenty of advice.  I'm not 
a Disco owner, but I also live in San Diego, and so far I've found service 
at Pioneer to be competitively priced.  By this, I mean their hourly rates 
compare well with that of other specially trained technicians.  Land Rovers 
are exceptional in more ways than one, i.e. an average U.S. mechanic will be 
surprised and confused by what he finds under the hood.  It takes some 
training and/or experience to work on them, for which you should expect to 
pay a little more.

I know Pioneer has some competition in the Land Rover service market, 
because they're always telling me why I should come to them instead of the 
competition, but I'm not quite sure who this competition is.  The Yellow 
Pages lists an independent shop under Range Rover, but I haven't 
investigated them.  I did a database querry on Compuserve and learned that 
the place was, at least until recently, a parts dealer.  It might be that 
Pioneer is worried about competition from the L.A. area.

BTW, I understand there's a British car meet at the Del Mar fairgrounds on 
October 1.  I plan to be there.  The fellow that recently started the 
Southern California Land Rover club plans to be there, with a sign.

-Matt

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From: Harincar@mooregs.com (Tim Harincar)
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 1995 13:01:06 -0700
Subject: Wanted: Vent linkage for IIa

Hello.

Last weekend I broke the linkage arm on one of my vents at the knob. I was 
trying to get the knob off so I could clean up the locking plate (the piece 
that bolts to the dash that the arm slides into to hold the vent in place), 
which was beginning to rust.

If anyone has one on their parts IIa or in a spares box, let me know and how 
much you'd want for it. 

Any tips on getting the knob off the other one so I don't break that one too 
are greatly appreciated. Or if you just have a spare knob to send along, I'll 
just cut the old one off so I can remove the plate.

Thanks,

Tim
---
tim harincar                                   moore graphic services
harincar@mooregs.com                minneapolis, mn
'66 IIa 88 SW

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Date: Mon, 25 Sep 1995 11:37:36 -0700
From: matts@cacilj.caciasl.com (Matt Snyder)
Subject: Disco auto vs manual

> LandRover did a great job with the automatic transmission giving it
> the proper gearing, and the ability to lock the transmision in low low.
> The engine breaking is fantastic for an auto, and as good as most

I concur, engine breaking from my '88 RR automatic is unbelievable, esp. in 
low low.

-Matt

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From: ross@secant.com (Ross Leidy)
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 95 15:34:12 0500
Subject: D90 owners please respond

Hello LRO's

I am a complete newcomer to the 4wd scene, and I'm conteplating the
purchase of a '95 Defender 90.  I plan on using the vehicle as my primary
means of transportation, and, although I am interested in taking it
off-road, it will probably get most of its use running around town.  I've
test-driven the vehicle so I know what I'm in for as far as
fit/finish/noise, etc.  Had the Defender not been quite so pricey, I would
not be at all hesitant to buy one.  However, if I was reasonably certain
that it was generally reliable and things wouldn't be falling apart one
week after the warantee expired, I would be less reluctant.  Although the
D90 was just introduced here in the US in 1994, I would be interested in 
hearing owners' experiences with regards to "frequency of repair".  Any
input  from D90 owners would be greatly appreciated. 

The local LR dealership (Cleveland, OH) let me drive one for an entire day,
 and I found that except for tire/engine/wind noise the D90 was
surprisingly rattle-and-squeak-free with one major exception.  The
spare-tire carrier  produced a very loud chatter when driving over even the
slightest bumps.  With  the vehicle parked, I was able to reproduce the
sound by racking the spare back-and-forth, but I couldn't pinpoint where the
sound was coming from.  I'm curious if anyone has experienced this same
behaviour and whether or not  the carrier can be adjusted to eliminate the
noise.  I could ask the dealer,  but I'm pretty sure he would just tell me
what I want to hear (not neccessarily  the truth). ;)

Thanks in advance for any comments.

Ross Leidy
ross@secant.com

P.S.  If Stephen O'Hearn is reading this, thanks for your email to me last
year. I'm embarrased to say that I haven't made the purchase yet.  I do
have quite a  few dealer brochures and magazine articles that have drool
marks all over. :)

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From: Stuart Williams <STUARTW@po1.net.cho.ge.com>
Subject: RR FAQ / Buyer's Guide?
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 95 16:30:00 EDT

All,

I'm in the *early* stages of looking for a reasonably priced, reasonably 
maintained used Rangie ('88 or '89) to replace my '85 Land Cruiser.  No, I'm 
not quite ready to buy but the wife says 'yes' and I don't want to lose the 
momentum!

I've seen FAQ lists and other excellent postings about what to look for in 
used Land Rover Series vehicles but I haven't seen the equivalent for Range 
Rovers. By lurking on this list I've learned a few things to watch out for 
(tailgate rust, steering box failures, misc leaks, etc) and other useful if 
unbelievable tidbits (like power seat switch parts being cheaper at the 
local Mercedes dealer) but I was wondering if anybody out there has put 
together a buying guide for used Rangies or maybe a list of the known 
trouble spots and their associated fixes ...

Any and all help would be appreciated!

Stuart Williams
'95 Discovery 'Great White'
 

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Date: Mon, 25 Sep 1995 14:08:33 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Brabyn <brabyn@skivs.ski.org>
Subject: Re: RR FAQ / Buyer's Guide?

Sounds like it's time for a RR FAQ, doesn't it?

I don't know how it's done, but would be willing to contribute.

Cheers

John Brabyn
89RR

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Date: 25 Sep 95 17:12:46 EDT
From: "William L. Leacock" <75473.3572@compuserve.com>
Subject: Wavering speedo

Trevor Easton wrote re wavering speedo and recieved some good advise as to the
source. 
 I would add that whilst ckecking the tightness of the gearbox output shaft nut
you should also check the radial plat in the output taper roller bearing and if
necessary  adjust the shims and replace the oil seal.

 Bill Leacock    Limey in exile.

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Date: Mon, 25 Sep 1995 16:03:21 -0600 (MDT)
From: Rob Bailey <baileyr@cuug.ab.ca>
Subject: Military 24 Volt Systems...

Some more questions:

1) Has anybody ever converted a 24 V alternator (generator?) from a FFR 
Lightweight over to 12 V? How about converting the 24 V water proof 
ignition over to 12 V?

2) How can you tell when a 2.25L petrol engine is a 5 bolt main (other 
than tearing the pan off!)?

3) Has anybody made a hoop set for a canvas soft top for an 88" before? 
It looks as though it wouldn't be too hard to make something that would 
work, and it would be quite a bit cheaper than purchasing a new one.

4) Are PTO winches that fit a series LR easily found? I have a forward 
pointing PTO on the transfer case. Or is it just easier to get an 
electric one? I would have to upgrade my generator (an 
old 22 amp one) and convert to neg. ground, I expect.

Suggestions?

Thanks,
Rob

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From: Leland J Roys <roys@hpkel13.cup.hp.com>
Subject: Buying a Def-90
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 95 15:08:20 PDT

Hello Ross Leidy,

In response to your question on buying a Def-90. 

I purchased a Def-90 about 5 months ago, and have since used to:

a. Commute to work 30 miles a day.
b. Go off-road (Utah, Mendicino etc.)
c. Look at, and smile once a day.

My blunt response to your question is: Buy a Discovery instead, if you mostly
are going to drive on the freeways (i.e. commute to work). I found out (and
expected) that the Def-90 is purely an off-road vehicle and that is where 
it is truely happy and at home. When commuting to work, the wind/tire/
engine noice is very loud, and is slowly driving me insane, almost to the
point where I am going to buy a small commute car to get to work and leave
the Def-90 at home (for off-road use only!). 

Don't get me wrong. I love the Def-90 and would not trade it in for a 
Disco even if I took no loss, however, I bought it for different reasons,
some of them are:

1. I like the "weird" nature of the truck and the fact that you do not
   see 1 million of them on the roads every day.
   
2. I wanted something that could really go off-road and not get torn to
   hell (Like my previous Toyota 4runner did).
   
3. I like the fact that other people at work think I am insane for buying
   such a weird truck.
   
But to summarize, If you plan to spend %80 of your time on the freeway,
you will probably be much happier in a quieter, more comfy Discovery. 
Or, if you want to get a truck that you can coat with mud, inside and
out and then spray out with a hose, get the Def-90.

Leland Roys
Cupertino Ca
1994 Def-90 (Red)

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Date: Tue, 26 Sep 1995 07:17:16 +0800 (WST)
From: TONY YATES  <tonyy@waalpha.wa.BoM.GOV.AU>
Subject: Re: Frame Oiling

> >any of the spray. This only good for the outside of the frame. I 
> >still use regular used motor oil and gear oil (heated) to spray 
> >inside the frame and lots of it. 
> I'm sure you've been using it for years with success, but for those of us who are compulsive, used motor oil contains contaminants from use that will attack steel. Acids and such like.

Boy, am I glad it doesn't snow here. In fact the annual average rainfall is
only 300mm (12 in). Rust? What's that?

BTW thanks for all the replies about come-a-longs. Don't think you can get
them in Oz, at least I have never seen them, Tirfor type hand winches seem
to be the go but they are quite ($700) expensive. There is a Chinese made
copy floating around for about half that, anyone in Oz had any experience
with that one?

Cheers.

==========================================================
                                      ()  (  )      ()
Tony Yates                           (  ) (   )    (  )
Bureau of Meteorology               (    )(    ) (      )
Port Hedland                       (       )   )(        )
Western Australia                 (          ) ) --------
                                   ------------
ph:  (091) 401 350                 \\\**\\**\
fax: (091) 401 100                   \***\*\
                                       \\*\
email: A.Yates@bom.gov.au                \\

==========================================================

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Date: Mon, 25 Sep 1995 19:25:22 -0400 (EDT)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.emr.ca>
Subject: Re: RR FAQ / Buyer's Guide?

On Mon, 25 Sep 1995, John Brabyn wrote:

> Sounds like it's time for a RR FAQ, doesn't it?

	1.	How do you tell them apart?  (various years)
	
	2.	What were the different configurations and options?

	3.	What do you look for when you buy one?  (rust etc)

	Always said I'd add the bits to the FAQ, but I can't tell
	Defenders apart really either.  As mentioned before, FAQ
	is heavily Series oriented which reflects what is running
	around here for the most part.  (BTW, newer version of FAQ
	will be out soon, promise... Last is 2 years old now)

	Rgds,

	Dixon

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Date: Mon, 25 Sep 1995 16:34:20 -0800
From: holland@catapent.com (Shannon Holland)
Subject: Re: Buying a Def-90

>My blunt response to your question is: Buy a Discovery instead, if you mostly
>are going to drive on the freeways (i.e. commute to work). I found out (and
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
>point where I am going to buy a small commute car to get to work and leave
>the Def-90 at home (for off-road use only!).

Ross,

I would seriouisly recomend getting the plastic hard top (or waiting a
little for the aluminum top if you can get one). I got the hard top and am
very happy with it. I pretty much use it to commute to work most days and
do a fair bit of freeway driving (along with the obvious off-road use!).
The Discovery may make more sense if you really want something more
comfortable, but test drive a hard top D90 first!

Shannon

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Date: Tue, 26 Sep 1995 07:35:20 +0800 (WST)
From: TONY YATES  <tonyy@waalpha.wa.BoM.GOV.AU>
Subject: Re: Military 24 Volt Systems...

On Mon, 25 Sep 1995, Rob Bailey wrote:
 
> 3) Has anybody made a hoop set for a canvas soft top for an 88" before? 
> It looks as though it wouldn't be too hard to make something that would 
> work, and it would be quite a bit cheaper than purchasing a new one.

Yes - I made a frame out of stainless steel pipe and copper pipe fittings.
It was constructed so as to be easy to dismantle and store in the back of
the truck. Only problem with it was that the top was flat rather than
curved which meant the rain would not run off if it was standing.  Still,
it did the job for 5 years and cost $50.  If I was doing it again I would
probably have a roll cage made to fit the canvas.

Cheers.

==========================================================
                                      ()  (  )      ()
Tony Yates                           (  ) (   )    (  )
Bureau of Meteorology               (    )(    ) (      )
Port Hedland                       (       )   )(        )
Western Australia                 (          ) ) --------
                                   ------------
ph:  (091) 401 350                 \\\**\\**\
fax: (091) 401 100                   \***\*\
                                       \\*\
email: A.Yates@bom.gov.au                \\

==========================================================

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Date: Mon, 25 Sep 95 17:01:30 MST
From: DEBROWN@SRP.GOV
Subject: A challenge is offered!! FUN FUN FUN!

FROM:  David Brown                           Internet: debrown@srp.gov
       Computer Graphics Specialist * Mapping Services & Engr Graphics
       PAB219 (602)236-3544 -  Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486
SUBJECT: A challenge is offered!! FUN FUN FUN!
I came across this on the "offroad" mailing list. Any takers?? I'd *LOVE* to
see this guy eat his words. A D90 against an Amigo??? Is he nuts??
(Obviously so!)

Come on! Someone's got to educate this poor sod!

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Date: Mon, 25 Sep 95 10:24:00 PDT
From: George Reiswig <George_Reiswig@ccm.jf.intel.com>
Subject: D 90 vs. Isuzu - A Challenge

Someone wrote:

>I don't read the Industry sponsored magazines, but the guy who wrote
>to the digest recently had it wrong.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
>A D-90? No way Isuzu.
>Joe Isuzu....you've got to be kidding!

While I don't have a Trooper, I do have an Amigo.  If anyone in the Portland,
OR
area has a D-90 and would like to demonstrate how much better their vehicle is
than mine, I would be most interested in doing some trails with you.  I'm sure
my Amigo would out-perform a stock D-90, but I'm open to be proven wrong.  I do
think Isuzus are generally underrated.

I tried to set up such a comparison with the local LR dealer, but for
"liability
reasons," they wouldn't let my vehicle on the course at the dealership.  Heck,
I
couldn't even drive their own D-90 on their own course...the salesman had to
drive!

The D-90's claim to fame for offroading is good suspension travel, as I
understand it.  Last year, at the Southwest Four Wheel Drive Association Winter
Quarterly, my Amigo scored a 585 on the RTI.  Not great, but Four Wheeler rates
the D-90 at 550 RTI, and the other Rovers aren't that much better.

So, anyone up for a challenge?  I promise not to use my ARB!

        GR

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End included message....

I was talking with a D90 owner last week who has front & rear ARB, and he said
that while the D90 was great before, it's *awesome* now! (paraphrased.)
Anyone in the Portland OR got a fully locked D90?

I'd *love* to see this!!

#=======#                Never doubt that a small group of individuals
|__|__|__\___            can change the world... indeed, it's the only
| _|  |   |_ |}          thing that ever has.
"(_)""""""(_)"                                          -Margaret Mead

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Date: Mon, 25 Sep 1995 19:34:47 -0500 (CDT)
From: David John Place <umplace@cc.UManitoba.CA>
Subject: Servo Units for Ser IIA

I just finished reading the brake system section of the Austin Marina 
shop manual.  Both it and the Land Rover use Girling Supervac Servo 
units.  It looks like the drawings are from the Girling company because 
they are identical at least by pictoral view.  I am going to try to find 
an old Austin one and try it on the Land Rover.  Dave VE4PN

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From: Robert Watson (CNA) <a-robw@microsoft.com>
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 95 18:15:45 TZ
Subject: RE: A challenge is offered!! FUN FUN FUN!

I don't have a D-90, but I have a (stock, no lockers, fancy tires, etc) 
Disco, and I live in the Seattle area (3 hrs from Portland). I'd be 
interested in comparing capabilities if there are some other takers 
(like a D-90, or 2). I haven't gone trail-riding with any Amigo's, nor 
do I have anything bad to say about them. They just didn't have the 
seating capacity I needed for the "on-road" duties it must perform 
(i.e. taxiing the kids).

WRT the RTI, They drive one side of a truck up a ramp as far as it can 
go, then put that distance into some formula to take into account 
wheelbase, etc. That's good for a statistic, but IMHO, all it really 
indicates is rear axle travel since that's the last wheel to leave the 
ground. What impresses me about the LR products in the undercarriage 
dept. is cross-axle travel.

On my Disco I can have the right front tire and the left rear tire each 
on one of those drive-up ramps (about 9" high) and all 4 tires are 
still in contact of the ground (or ramp as the case may be). Out of 
curiousity, can the Amigo do that without lockers? My Jeep Wrangler 
could only go about 3" before tires would start spinning. What this 
translates to in "real-life" (i.e. off road) is less wheel spin, better 
traction and a smoother ride. Which suits my needs just fine.

-- Bob W.
defending (disco-ing?!) the King's honor :-)

[Begin challenge]
 While I don't have a Trooper, I do have an Amigo.  If anyone in the 
Portland, OR  area has a D-90 and would like to demonstrate how much 
better their vehicle is  than mine, I would be most interested in doing 
some trails with you.  I'm sure  my Amigo would out-perform a stock 
D-90, but I'm open to be proven wrong.  I do  think Isuzus are 
generally underrated.

 I tried to set up such a comparison with the local LR dealer, but for 
"liability  reasons," they wouldn't let my vehicle on the course at the 
dealership.  Heck,  I couldn't even drive their own D-90 on their own 
course...the salesman had to  drive!

 The D-90's claim to fame for offroading is good suspension travel, as 
I  understand it.  Last year, at the Southwest Four Wheel Drive 
Association Winter  Quarterly, my Amigo scored a 585 on the RTI.  Not 
great, but Four Wheeler rates  the D-90 at 550 RTI, and the other 
Rovers aren't that much better.

 So, anyone up for a challenge?  I promise not to use my ARB!

         GR

[End Challenge] 

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From: Drrover@aol.com
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 1995 22:57:08 -0400
Subject: iterms to sell

hi everyone 
i have some parts to sell used and new
*high performance spark plug wire (all LR)
*sets of four alloy wheels discovery patern
*sets of four michelin tyres  235/70/16
*K&N air filter
*spare tire cover w/ LR scrip
*discovery stock shocks
*all LR high performance shocks
all inquiry please send e mail to Dr Rover thx:)

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From: jpappa01@interserv.com
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 95 20:10:15 PDT
Subject: Re: 	Beluga

Seems to be some confusion or disinformation about beluga black and Discovery. 
To set the record straight:

	Beluga Black paint is a $300 option - available on *ALL* 1996 
Discoveries - regardless of model - SD, SE, SE7, auto or stick. Including base 
stick shift model. This *IS* different from 1995, where the black was not 
available on the base stick shift - actually only white, red, and conniston 
green were offered on the 1995 base stick - but for 1996 the base stick is 
available in all colors...

	Black is a $300 extra cost color on all Land Rovers - Disco, Range 
Rover Classic, Range Rover 4.0SE, and Defender 90. The only model which does 
not charge for the extra color is the 4.6 HSE. The 4.6 is available (in NA) 
*ONLY* in two colors - Beluga Black and Rioja Red - both with Ash Black 
interiors...

	Hope this helps...

cheerz
Jim - where the hell's my 88?

`67 2A 88 5.0L hybrid
`67 2A 109 5.0L hybrid
`68 2B 110 F/C diesel
`70 P6B 3500S
`90 Range Rover County
`93 D110 #457/500
`95 D90 #1958

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Date: Mon, 25 Sep 1995 21:04:40 -0700 (PDT)
From: David Rosenbaum <rosenbau@u.washington.edu>
Subject: Re: D90 owners please respond

Dear Ross, 
I have owned my '94 D90 since Dec. 1993, and *love* it. My only problems 
were early on when the dealer had difficulty installing some accessories 
(rear seat, winch), but mine was the first they had done and the 
instructions from Land Rover were sketchy. 
Most of my time in the D90 is spent on pavement, in the suburbs and city 
of Seattle (commuting to work to *pay* for the thing!) and I enjoy being 
able to take the top off and windows out and sitting high enough to look 
out over the traffic -- to the mountains where I wish I was heading.
My other cars are a '55 Chevy (cost $1000) and a '66 Scout (cost $425, 
then another $4k to fix up and it's still BAD) so the expense of buying 
the D90 made me nervous about such an outlay.
But it has been supremely reliable, lots of fun, and absolutely great 
when I have had it off road.
My advice is to buy one if it is possible for you to do so, I you *like* 
them. They are unique and if you buy something else, I suspect that you 
may always feel a sense of loss when you see one, etc.

Mine had a rattle coming from the rear tire carrier, which I found was 
due to a loose lug-nut: easy fix. Several months ago, somebody posted a 
more serious problem with their rear tire carrier (leaking grease maybe?)
And Land Rovers DO have personalities: which *may* include unique squeeks 
and/or leaks.

Best wishes,
David 

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Date: Mon, 25 Sep 1995 20:59:52 -0700
From: "John Y. Liu" <johnliu@earthlink.net>
Subject: Various Questions

Well, the swivel balls finally got rebuilt and Rover is back on the road,
all leaks sealed up and feeling frisky.  The steering is much tighter
(although I'm not used to it yet and have been weaving around the road a
touch) and there's not even a smidgen of play at the swivels.  She seems to
need an alignment as there's less self-centering than there used to be, but
it's not very noticeable.

However, during the last week of sitting cross-legged under the fenders
(sorry, wings) reverentially wiping greasy bits with clean rags, I had
altogether too much time to ponder the next project.  I think it's destined
to be the springs, shocks and tires.  Get all the underpinnings sorted out
together, you know.

Here's the questions.  I can't raise the truck more than an inch (preferably
not at all), or it won't fit in my carport with a roof rack.  Will new
springs raise a Rover?  Can anyone suggest an economical source for new road
springs (for delivery to Los Angeles)?  And should I use the regular black
rubber bushes or look for those polyurethane bushes that are brightly
colored like popsicle sticks?  Finally, besides penetrating oil, a hacksaw,
heat, and a big hammer, are there any magic tricks for extracting and
inserting bushings? 

Thanks!

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Subject: Re: Various Questions 
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 1995 22:27:08 -0700
From: Benjamin Allan Smith <bens@archimedes.vislab.navy.mil>

In message <199509260506.AAA17959@butler.uk.stratus.com>you wrote:
  
> Here's the questions.  I can't raise the truck more than an inch (preferably
> not at all), or it won't fit in my carport with a roof rack.  Will new
> springs raise a Rover?

	It depends upon how tired your current springs are.  Measure the
distance between the axle and the bottom of the bumpstops.  The compare
versus that which is noted in the factory and/or Hayes manual.  The difference
will be how much height you will gain.

  Can anyone suggest an economical source for new road springs (for delivery 
to Los Angeles)?  

	Drive upto (or call British Pacific in Burbank).  I've had lots of
of success with them.

British Pacific 

    3317 Burton Avenue, Burbank, CA
    Orders: 1-800-554-4133
    Customer Service: 818-841-8945
    Fax: 818-841-3825 (availible 24 hours)
    Business Hours (Pacific Time): 
        Monday-Friday; 9:00am-6:00pm 
        Saturday: 9:00am-12:00am 
        Closed Sundays and Major US Holidays 
        Superwinch Dealer
        Carries Genuine, OEM and Aftermarket parts

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 Benjamin Smith------------bens@vislab.navy.mil---------1972 Land Rover SIII 88
 Science Applications International Corporation
 Naval Air Warfare Center, Weapons Division, China Lake

"...If I were running such a contest, I would specifically eliminate any entry
 from Ben involving driving the [Land] Rover anywhere.  He'd drive it up the
 Amazon basin for a half can of Jolt and a stale cookie..."  --Kevin Archie

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