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From: sreddock@VNET.IBM.COM
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 95 09:15:48 BST
Subject: Chassis paint

Hi y'all,

I have decided to repaint my chassis as rewire my lightweight at the same time.
The sea air down here is causing a lot of surface rust and I want to stop it
before it becomes structural.

The wiring is terrible and has been the cause of many a breakdown and strange
behavior.  Why not do them both at the same time?

The plan for this is actually to go the whole hog and remove the body GULP!
This will give me better access to the host of other little jobs which have
needed attention for a while at the same time.

Mechanically and electrically I can handle the job, but no doubt it will be the
cause of much swearing and skinned knuckles.  In the past I replaced the rear
cross-member and painted it with cellulose paint after numerous coats of red
oxide primer.  This was very soft even after a month or two of drying time.

I then repainted it with hammerite and spray on underseal where the wheel

So far this has been OK, but I wouldn't describe it as great.  There are a few
chips and scrapes on the cross member.  Does anybody recommend a better paint
than hammerite?  Hopefully one which is cheaper, but cost is not that important
as I would rather spend a bit more than have to do the job again next year.

I know hammerite recommend painting onto bare metal or old sound paint as long
as it has been thoroughly cleaned & wire brushed, but has anybody tried using
something like red oxide first?  Is there any benefit?

Also what is the best way to remove the old underseal which has been poorly
applied in the past?  I have in my garage a pressure washer with water/sand
blasting attachment to encourage loose paint to go. I have never tried it.
Is it the best way to remove underseal, or am I going to spend a month with a
wire brush?  Is there a chemical stripper which will do the job safely - I do
not have anything really useful like a positive pressure respirator.

Tempting as it is to buy a huge drum of black wire I will try and replicate the
factory loom so any future owners don't end up making voodoo dolls of me.

In case anybody is wondering the V6 fitment doesn't affect the wiring much at
all.  The solenoid is replaced with a post (the solenoid is on the starter).
Also little things like the oil pressure light is moved and there are one or
two extra wires for the electronic ignition, but the only bits connected to
the L-R and power feeds, the rest of the wires just run between the dizzy and
the black box.  The impact of the wiring is minimal.

Any chassis painting advice gratefully received.

Thanks in advance, Steve.   Lightweight V6

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Sep 1995 20:03:22 +1000
From: Lloyd Allison <lloyd@cs.monash.edu.au>
Subject: 4WD magazine

I have become involved in writing for a "commercial" 4WD Internet "magazine":
   http://www.sofcom.com.au/4WD/4WD.html

I say "commercial" because while it is commercial in principle,
it is not very commercial in practice as yet - just a sink for time!
It is about all 4WDs (sorry), but including Solihull's finest.

Anyway, it would be very happy to receive articles about
4WD vehicles, clubs and events in general (including Solihull's finest).
e.g. something on LROA NA, or an article from the RRR, to name but two.

I don't think there is any conflict of interest with
http://...tildeLand-Rover/   but if anyone has a point of view on
possible conflicts-of-interest I would like to hear it.

Lloyd

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date:          Thu, 21 Sep 1995 07:08:53 GMT -0600
Subject:       Re: Handy Compressor

Bill Skidmore writes:
Snip
> He had gone to the junk yard, and found an air conditioner compressor, hooked 
> it to the block by maching brackets, and ran a belt to it off the pully.  Ran 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
> 100psi from it!
> Any thoughts on doing this the Rovers?

Possible I guess. But running it through lube bowls concerns me. If 
he's adding oil to the air it will attack the rubber in his tires. 
Not a good thing
J.C. Whitney (mail order auto parts in Chicago for those non-US 
readers) sells a vacum operated compressor that puts out around 
100psi. 

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

From: Easton Trevor <TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA>
Subject: Just one side unlocked
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 95 08:15:00 DST

As Darryl so rightly points out, with just one side locked, the driven axle 
would spin the differential, but only if the transfer case was in two wheel 
drive. Provided there is a solid drive (no centre diff) to both axles then 
unlocking one axle merely prevents the wind up that would occur with 
differential wheel speeds on tarmac. I don't know what the set up is on the 
Dodge but would hazard a guess that it uses a solid transfer case and 
unlocking axle as a cheap (as in inexpensive) and effective means of 
shifting from two to four wheel drive. In fact when one thinks about it, 
depending on the friction levels present in the two axle shafts it could 
also be unwise to unlock both hubs and leave the axle engaged to the drive. 
The ring gear could turn, one axle turns slowkly or not at all and the other 
at twice speed.

Trevor Easton Grimsby Ontario. 1962 SIIA SWB SW, 1974 SIII SWB SW New 
acquisition for #2 son.

------------------------------

From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 1995 08:22:43 -0400
Subject: Ball Joints

How does one know if ball joints/tie rod ends need replacing?  As long as I
have the front end torn apart, if there is a way of checking this, I'd like
to do the work now rather than six months from  now.
As always, all replies are appreciated

Nate Dunsmore
Rocking Horse Farm
Boring, MD USA 21020
(410)429-4964

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date:          Thu, 21 Sep 1995 07:38:07 GMT -0600
Subject:       Re: LR Split Rims

Rob Bailey writes:
Snip
> I have a pair of Land Rover split rims, and was wondering if anybody else 
 has any experience with them. I haven't been using them, and one person I 
 talked to indicated that he thought they were dangerous. I have heard a 
 fair amount about the dangers of split rims exploding etc..., but really 
 don't know what makes them so dangerous. The rims have a single 
 piece back and centre, and a separate rim "front" section bolted on 
 just outside the centre. Do regular (dangerous) truck split rims have the 
 same design? Are these rims useful, should I be using them (I have a 
 fairly good pair of really tall 7.50x16's on them now) or should I just 
> carefully remove the tires and mount them on one piece rims?

IMHO the rims *are* dangerous under the folowing condidtions:
1. rusted/corroded retaining bolts,
2. you're absent minded enough to unbolt them before deflating the 
tires,
3. a severe accident that crushes the wheel.
How to deal with the above problems;
1. Replace rusted bolts & nuts. You can get high tensile carriage bolts 
and the nuts are standard US type lug nuts
2. Don't forget. I use valve caps that have the core removal tool on 
them so I can easily remove the core and totally deflate the tire. If 
you're really forgetful, paint the inside of the rim with a reminder.
3. If you have that bad an accident you're probably dead anyway.

Truck split rims are different. They look very much like regular 
rims, but the outer bead-retaing portion is a seperate band and has 
to be carefully fitted. I had them on my IH Travelall.

The advantage to the LR two piece rims is it's easier to do field 
repairs of flats.
The disadvantages are listed above, plus they are heavy.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date:          Thu, 21 Sep 1995 07:50:00 GMT -0600
Subject:       Re: Come-a-long question

Tony Yates asks:
> I may have missed something here, but can someone please
> tell me what a "come-a-long" is!!??

It the brand name of a heavy duty hand operated portable winch with 
usually around 25' of cable. It's come to be used as the term for 
any hand operated portable winch, inculding the cheap pieces of 
garbage tha aren't worth the pot-metal they're  made of.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date:          Thu, 21 Sep 1995 07:53:11 GMT -0600
Subject:       Re: RE. Spongy Brakes

Simon Wing-Tang writes:
Snip
> stories but I knew these were all ok.  So in the end I mentioned it passing 
> to a mate and he said that he heard of a guy who basically bled his brakes 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
> min.  Came back and did it up, topped up the reservoir, undid the near rear 
> screw and walked away again.
Snip
This is DOW's recommended method for silcone fluid as pumping will 
cause air bubbles.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

From: crash@merl.com
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 1995 09:01:55 -0400
Subject: Disco steel and lack thereof

The only exposed "skin" on a Disco that's steel is the roof, the bumpers, 
and the upper two feet of the door pillars.  The doors are all aluminium-skinned,
(including the back door), the fenders are aluminium, the hood is aluminium,
the grille is ABS (not sure on this- I haven't tried drilling it). 

This is about as much exposed steel as a Rangey (though if I _had_ to have
steel exposed, I'd want it as high as possible, to keep the paint undamaged
and hence uncorroded.  The steel tailgate on the Rangey is an abomination 
and it rusts, too.  When was the last time you saw even a Toyota
Corroda with a rusty _roof_? :) )

Besides, a steel roof means you can use a magnetic-mount antenna for
the CB, the Ham rig, and the GPS.  :-)

	-Bill

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Sep 1995 09:30:50 -0400
From: rvirzi@gte.com (Robert A. Virzi)
Subject: Come again on the come-a-long?

Tony-
A come-a-long is a manual winch, sort of.  It is a metal rig about 2' long
with a long handle on it.  The handle attaches to a small drum through a
series of gears.  There is also a ratcheting mechanism.  By cranking the
handle, you, well, make the things come-a-long.  The drum holds about 10'
of cable.  I've also heard heard it called a fence puller, because it can
be used to tension chainlink fences.

  \
   \                     () is the drum and gearing
    \                    === is the metal bit      \ is the handle
@====()=------------@    @ signs represent hooks.  -- is cable.

-Bob

  rvirzi@gte.com             Think Globally. ===
  +1(617)466-2881                            === Act Locally!

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Sep 1995 09:44:38 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Francis J. Twarog" <ftwarog@moose.uvm.edu>
Subject: READ THIS (US folks)!!!

This is a rather timely message - and one that I hope all US folks take a 
moment to read and consider.  About 8 months ago, I began to plan a 
rather large undertaking... I am trying to plan a major off-road event in 
Colorado in August of 1996 in which one team of 2 persons from each Land 
Rover club in the US - actually North America, as I hope that the Ottawa 
Club etc. will try to attend - will gather for a "meeting of the minds."  
This venue - which will be a 12-14 day trip along the Great Divide - will 
be an opportunity to get the clubs together to try to work out some kind 
of ARC-like entity (or even determine if there is a need for national 
organization).  I am **NOT** trying to suggest club regulations or guide 
lines, **NOR** is this any type of fund-raising-for personal-gain type of 
event.  In fact, I hope that it will become a sort of annual event in 
which every club has the opportunity to see what others are doing, 
discuss future inter-club events, etc. etc.
	The "rules" are very simple.  

1. Every club in North America is invited to attend.  No club is in 
charge, nor is there a heirarchy in terms of number of memberships each 
club has (not a competition).
2. Each club is financially responsible for their team and their vehicle.  
It will be determined through their own system who goes in what vehicle etc.
It does not mean that a president or "someone in charge" has to be 
present (a 2 week vacation isn't always feasible nor desireable) - merely 
2 persons that are both interested in accomplishing a joint goal as well 
as have a hell of a good time off roading!
3. No money will is to be raised (I know this to be a touchy subject) for 
anyone's personal gain (i.e. me).  Perhaps t shirts or stickers etc. 
could be discussed over the coming year, but not for profit!  The only 
thing that might be nice is to help me out in terms of covering (what I 
hope to be ) a lot of corrospondance.  Much of this can be done by email, 
though not everyone has this convenience - so I will gladly send by mail 
the literature I have so-far begun.

	Here's where I need the most immediate help.  Please send me 
feed-back, advise, help, or any form of assistance as soon as possible.  
Spread the word.  I have so far contacted a few people who have been 
helpful in terms of suggestions and I thank them again here.  Thanks!

	As far as a vehicle?  Obviously any Land Rover (RR) that the club 
wants to send - should be able to manage a few bumps and a couple of 
miles, though.  Teams are any 2 club members willing to deal with a few 
days of camping and general uncomfort (we'll try to plan on showering at 
least once - maybe even take up on Motel 6's offer to keep their light on 
for us).  
	Also, if anyone knows of a club that is not represented by this 
email-digest thing, please email me their club address so I can notify 
them - noone is to be left out!  In brief, I hope that this type of event 
will be met in a positive manner - I hope it will result in some kind of 
unity between the clubs and perhaps ensure the survival of them.  Any 
comments are greatly appreciated and I hope to hear from you soon.

Frank Twarog
Burlington, VT  USA

------------------------------

Date: 21 Sep 95 09:58:31 EDT
From: "R. Pierce Reid" <70004.4011@compuserve.com>
Subject: Rovers.

Jeff... some answers to some of your questions:

Parts are no problem... one phone call and they will be in your hands in 24 - 48
hours.  Rovers North is *the* place to go.  Wioth a catalog and a credit card,
you can build the whole vehicle from scratch via mailorder.

For many of your model variants questions, call Rovers North and lay out $29 for
the Haynes manual and another $20 for the Taylor Land Rover books.  They will
explain the basics and any Series owner needs a Haynes book anyway.  And, it
will answer for you all the'newbie' questions that if you ask here for too long,
we'll start to rag on you like we did that Taylor guy ;-)   RN is at (802)
879-0032.  They take MC and VIsa.

Buy a IIa... not a III

Diff. locks are on Defenders Disco's, etc.  No such animal on a IIa.

In your area, there are lots of Rovers, Rover people and help available.  Mass
has a great club.  Too bad you missed British Invasion in Stowe last weekend.
Lots of Rovers there.

A stock Rover in the Northeast will run you from $5k (minimal for a running
vehicle right now and I would be cautions of anything much cheaper... you'll pay
the difference in parts and angst) up to 26 K for a perfect nut-and-bolt
East-Coast Rovers restoration.  My dad just bought 2 vehicles (a 109 and an 88)
from British Bulldog and Seth, the owner, seems to be a stand-up guy.  He is in
Rhode island, about a 1 hour roadtrip for you.  Go visit him.  He advertises in
Hemmings.  Avoid Roverworks (in Hyde Park NY) and UK Land Rovers (Leslie
Stutsman) like the plague.    Seth has a "rough" cosmetically but good
mechanically rover avaialble now.  I have seen it run, if the price is right, it
might be a good buy for you.

Low range is only suitable for off-road travel.  You can go 20 MPH in low
range... If you run in low range on pavement, kiss your transmission, transfer
case and differentials goodbye.  An OD is a good idea, but not a necessity.  16"
wheels give the same effect and if you are just putting around Boston, put the
$$$ into a reliable engine, a bull bar and a bumpersticker that says "Move or
I'll Ram You"

Join the LROA, the North American LR club.  There should be a Mass affiliate.
Somone on the list can give you numbers.

The 2.25 L. engine is about bulletproof.  It will run in abhorant conditions.
Check to make sure the oil has been changed at least once in its lifetime and
that there is *some* compression and you should be fine.  Don't bother with a
diesel... for the cost of conversion, you can buy several hunderd gallons of
gas.

Finally, try and contact a Series LR owner in the Boston area to inspect a car
for/with you.  Most club members (and list members) like myself, will gladly
sacrifice a Saturday to help an up-and-coming enthusiast ruin his life and
squander his money -- oops sorry... to help an up and coming enthusiast find a
Land Rover to love and Cherish for decades...

Take it easy and hope to welcome you to the ranks of owners.  Did anyone tell
you about the hazing?

Cheers, 

R. Pierce Reid

'94 D90
'56 Series I Fire Truck (that my Dad just appropriated... damn, I need another
Series Rover)

------------------------------

Date: 21 Sep 95 10:10:34 EDT
From: "R. Pierce Reid" <70004.4011@compuserve.com>
Subject: Split Rims

I have used split rims on a military and there is nothing wrong with them.  In
fact., for serious expeditioning, I would use nothing but, because you can
change your tires and tubes yourself without a large machine!  Let the air out,
split the rims, put in a new tube, fasten the halves back together and you are
on your way.

A word of caution... don't ever split a split rim (undo the bolts and nuts)
unless every last ounce of air is out of the tires.  If you undo an inflated
split rim, you will put half your wheel through the roof of your garage (or your
head if you are bending over the wheel.)  

Split rims are perfectly good and perfectly safe.  If you do not want yours, i
know a person who does...  he swears by them.

Cheers, 

R. P. Reid

------------------------------

Date: 21 Sep 95 10:15:12 EDT
From: "R. Pierce Reid" <70004.4011@compuserve.com>
Subject: Ohio Club

Can someone get me a phone number for the (newly forming) Ohio Land Rovers Club
(affiliate of LROA, I believe).  I am interested in joining and probably in
volunteering/holding office/contribut9ing to newsletter, etc.  But I can't find
a phone number for any of the people trying to organize the effort.  I think
they are in Cincinatti.

Cheers, 

R. Pierce Reid

------------------------------

From: Andrew Grafton <A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: Rovers
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 95 16:12:50 BST

{snip}

I snipped loads of brilliant advice - well worth listening to - but I
my be able to add a little to the advice about engines.

> The 2.25 L. engine is about bulletproof.  It will run in abhorant conditions.
 Check to make sure the oil has been changed at least once in its lifetime and
> that there is *some* compression and you should be fine.  Don't bother with a
 diesel... for the cost of conversion, you can buy several hunderd gallons of
> gas.

I'd agree about the 2.25 petrol, but there must be some 2.25 diesels
running about over there, which would save the cost of a conversion 
(If not, perhaps there is someone with a diesel they ripped out <ajr?>
who would sell it to you cheap?).  The diesel is not as bulletproof 
as the petrol and is noisy, smelly, oily, vastly underpowered etc.etc.,
but if you are after the "Landrover Experience", nothing beats it!  If
the unit you buy is rebuilt by you or has been serviced regularly, it 
should go on and on working as badly as it did from day 1!

A diesel turns in between 25 and 30 U.K. mpg, depending on the state of 
the engine.  It doesn't matter how you drive because you will always be
on full throttle, near as dammit.  They are good if you are going to
totally immerse your engine in water a lot.

If you get a LR 2.25 diesel, seriously consider an overdrive and/or
bigger tyres and different diffs because the engine hates operating over
3,500rpm.

Your eventual choice will depend on what you like, how much you like 
tinkering, how fast you want to go, and what your situation with the
neighbours is...

Good luck, 

All the best,

Andy Grafton
A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk

------------------------------

From: Harincar@mooregs.com (Tim Harincar)
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 1995 10:33:40 -0700
Subject: Wierd Generator Stuff

Uncle Joe is playing games with my '66 IIa...

Two days ago (last time I drive it before today) I noticed that when I 
started it the generator light came on for a few seconds, then went off. 
Actually, it went off when I started rolling - i.e. got the revs going.

It did it to me again today, but I started to watch the meter. The light was 
off, but I noticed that when I was idling, and had the heater fan on (35 
degrees here in Minneapolis :-(   ), it was drawing about 13 amps, steady. 
When I started rolling, the needle would bounce around more like normal. 

Then, when I got to work and turned the motor off - the idiot light for 
the generator came back on. Even when I took the key out. 

Short in the generator? I've also noticed in the last couple months that my 
headlights don't burn steady, but pulse. 

I'm thinking that this might all be related to a faulty generator, but maybe 
the voltage regulator? The generator was replace about two or three years 
ago by the P.O. (from Atlantic British). 

I'm in digest mode, so email in addition to a response to the list would be 
great...

Tim
---
tim harincar
harincar@mooregs.com
'66 IIa 88 SW

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Sep 1995 08:47:13 +0100
From: cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine)
Subject: Re: Some simple queries...

 Jeff Goldman <jgoldman@acs.bu.edu> writes:

>	Well, that's an even ten. Thanks for all your replies. I'm sure
 that'll hold me for awhile. Aside from Hemmings, the only other publication
 near-by that I've found Series vehicles for sale in is the local Want
 Advertiser. Anyone know of another source? They do seem very far a few
 between...

 Both Rovers North and Atlantic British sporadically publish newsletters
 which have Classifieds in them.  Also join the LROA/NA which publishes
 the Aluminum Workhorse which has Marketplace listings, a Parts and Service
 directory (80+/-), and LROA regional coordinators as well as other LR clubs
 in North America, such as the OVLA in Ontario, Canada, another publisher
 of a great newsletter.

 To join LROA/NA (Land Rover Owners Association/ North America) send your name,
 address and Rover information (if any) along with the US$20 annual dues to:
 LROA/NA Membership, PO Box 1144, Paradise, CA 95967 USA (Canada and Mexico add
 US$4, all other countries add US$6 for mailing).  You will be issued a
membership
 number, window sticker (?), and will receive the Aluminum Workhorse four
times a
 year, among other benefits.

 To join OVLA (Ottowa Valley Land Rovers) contact: OVLA, 1016 Normandy Crescent,
 Ottowa, Ontario, Canada K2C OL4, Attn: Mike Dermott.

 Michael Carradine, Architect                          Ph/Fax 510-988-0900
 Carradine Studios, PO Box 494, Walnut Creek, CA 94597 USA    <cs@crl.com>
 _________________________________________________________________________
 Mercedes-Benz Unimog 4x4 WWW page at:  http://www.crl.com/~cs/unimog.html

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Sep 95 09:20:36 -0700
From: "TeriAnn Wakeman"  <twakeman@apple.com>
Subject: Re: Some simple queries...

In message <199509210520.AAA10055@butler.uk.stratus.com>  writes:

Taylor AKA Jeff asks a number of questions that would fill a hard drive trying 
to answer.

>  I've come up with a few simple (should be) questions. I'd
> appreciate any and all help I can get.

I would suggest contacting Rover's North 802-879-0032 and asking for their 
catalogue.  It gives a short run down on the different models and when changes 
were made.

Contact British Pacific 800-554-4133, and purchase a copy of "LAND ROVER Series 
I II III & V8 Choice, purchase and performance"  The book's about $13 and will 
answer most all your questions.

Once you have read that book cover to cover, come back with what few questions 
you might still have.

Sorry but your short list of simple questions would take several hours to answer
in detail.  Read up & get back to us.

TeriAnn

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Sep 1995 09:38:22 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Walter C. Swain" <wcswain@wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us>
Subject: Re: LROA Membership?

On Thu, 21 Sep 1995 RICKCRIDER@aol.com wrote:

> How does one gain information and join LROA and recieve and/or join Aluminum
> Workhorse?    I see lots of postings on the matter but no info on joining in.
>    Thanks.

e-mail to bobandsueb@aol.com

= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
               Walter C. Swain          |  wcswain@wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us 
               Davis Community Network  |  1988 Range Rover
               Davis, California        |  1967 109 Series IIA Safari SW

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Sep 1995 21:49:30 EDT
From: LDQP14A@prodigy.com (MRS MIDGE E NOLAN)
Subject: Inquiry

Hello, was at the 'British Invasion' in Stowe, Vt. and was given this 
address.  Am quite intersted to know what LRO is about.       Thanks, 
Mike Nolan.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Sep 95 11:28:22 PDT
From: Bennett Leeds <bennett@mv.us.adobe.com>
Subject: Comparison of '95 and '96 Discoveries

Perusing the '95 and '96 Discovery brochures, I came across the  
following differences. I have not yet driven a '96 to compare the  
performance directly, however. Comments welcome:

Although the engine size appears at first to have increased from 3.9  
to 4.0 liters, it's actually just increased by 0.003 liters (3947cc  
to 3950cc). Ah, the wonders of numerical rounding!

As reported here earlier, maximum torque is up only 1 ft-lb. However,  
it occurs 100 rpm sooner - perhaps an indication of more low end  
oomph. Official gas mileage is 1 mpg better in the city on the '96s.

In the suspension section, the '96 brochure lists sway bars for both  
front and rear while the '95 brochure does not. Are sway bars, in  
fact, new for '96? The '95 I drove on curvy roads did lean alot and  
my experience with other cars is that swar bars help a lot. However,  
I've heard that they sometimes interfere with off-road performance.  
Comments?

Tires are either the same Michelins or Goodyear Eagle GT+4 M+S: any  
ideas on which is better?

Curb weight on the vehicle has increase fro 4379 lbs to 4465 lbs, but  
gross vehicle weight remains the same at 6019 lbs.

Angle of approach has increased from 33 degrees to 38 degrees while  
angle of departure has increased from 24 degrees to 28 degrees. In  
the front I assume this is due to a redesign of the spoiler (which  
now accomdates optional fog lamps, btw). Don't know about the rear.

Sound system has two additional tweeters, mounted in the front A  
pillars. The optional CD changer goes under the passenger seat now.  
The rear view mirror has a switchable auto dimming feature. Visors  
have mirrors with lights. The rear lights now have turn indicators up  
top as well as in the bumper.

The power seats are much more comfortable (to my butt and back,  
anyway) than the '95s manually adjusted seats. They slide futher back  
and the base tilts.

Now the bad news: the dealer invoice on a fully loaded '96 is about  
$2000 more than a fully loaded '95 - due mostly to more options being  
included (power seats, fog lamps, rear step, fancier wheels).

However, the worst news is that just below the stereo receiver, on a  
flat horizontal part of the dash, dead center, is some garbage safety  
warning about seat belts! And, it doesn't appear to be an easily  
removed sticker. Of course, this doesn't appear in the brochure  
photos...

- Bennett Leeds
bennett@mv.us.adobe.com

BTW, if the owner of a red Discovery who was in Mountain View a few  
days ago is reading, my heart goes out to you. I can't fantom why  
anyone would smash more than one window of your vehicle.

------------------------------

From: Sanna@aol.com
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 1995 14:47:36 -0400
Subject: Re: Free Wheeling Hubs

>>You'll probably hear a lot of opinions on to free-wheel or not to
free-wheel.

Here's my 3 cents worth....  Your IIa DOES NOT need freewheeling hubs.  They
were not on the car when it came from Rover, and they're a hassle in many 4WD
situations.  Back in the days when your LR was built it had a very distinct
advantage over every other vehicle off the road.  With the Land Rover you
could shift on the fly from 2-wheel high to 4-wheel high when you needed it.
 All the other off-roaders either had to stop to shift or stop and get out of
the car and lock their hubs.  It may not seem like a big deal, but many,
many, many times I have come apon or gotten into situations where dry paths
unexpectedly turned into snow drifts, mud holes, loose sand, quick sand,
water or ice.  And in these situations, MOMENTUM COUNTS. (not to mention that
getting out in the wet, the goo, or the cold to fiddle with your wheels is
not much fun).

Hubs were invented to keep the old Jeep's running gear from "wrapping up".
 If you ran CJ5 on hard surface with the hubs locked in you'd wind up the
front axle.  I've seen jeeps that had to have the front jacked off the groand
to get the hubs to disengage.  

Lulubelle, my '70 IIa, has 1/3 million miles on her, and the front drive
train is one of the few parts on the car that has never malfunctioned, worn
out or been replaced.  

Tony

------------------------------

Date: 21 Sep 95 14:52:14 EDT
From: Mark Ritter <70472.1130@compuserve.com>
Subject: 101 FC's in U.S.

I have read several reports of 101's being in the US fully liscenced and
insured. How is this possible? I thought that if the Rover was less than 25
years old and was not officially imported then it could not be brought in and
registered. Any 101 owners out there care to divulge your secrets. I would love
to own one of these beasts someday, as I think it would be a good partner for my
Disco.

						Mark Ritter
						94 Disco w/steel wheels
						mud tires and Locking
						rear diff.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Sep 1995 12:10:19 -0700
From: burns@lint.cisco.com (Russell burns)
Subject: Re: Overdrive Gearbox

Could this be amsoil with a strange accent?
If so I have been using it in my Range Rover transmision, and transfer
case with out any problems. In fact my transfer case shifts with
less grinding, and the oil comes out looking cleaner..
Russ Burns

>To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net
>Hallo Rovers,
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 23 lines)]
>Marius van der Spuy   (Cape Town, South Africa)
>Replies to - mvdscape@iafrica.com
Russ Burns________________________________________________________________
CiscoSystems

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Sep 1995 19:40:42 -0600 (CST)
From: "Soren Vels Christensen" <velssvch@inet.uni-c.dk>
Subject: RE: Ball Joints

In message Thu, 21 Sep 1995 08:22:43 -0400, NADdMD@aol.com  writes:
> How does one know if ball joints/tie rod ends need replacing?  As long as
> I have the front end torn apart, if there is a way of checking this, I'd
> like to do the work now rather than six months from  now.

Grab one rod and try to turn it as if you were aligning, but without
loosening the clamps. I the rod move easily it's worn. If you can feel a
"click", the balls have settled. Peek under the rubber seal. If there's
mayonaise, there's water inside (bad!). Grab the whole ball assy. and have
an assistant turn the steering wheel from side to side +/- 1/4 turn. You can
feel if there's a slack.

If one or more of the above applies you should change all joints.

While you are at it check the relay. Have the assistant do the steering
wheel bit again while you grab the lower relay arm and the bottom of the
relay. Movement should be all axial. If not...

rgds

sv/aurens

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Sep 95 15:21 SAT
From: jtrisott@reuna.cl (Jose Luis Trisotti C)
Subject: LRO list

GOOD IDEA

>From CHILE SouthAmerica

I'm owner of Land Rover 88 Serie III Made in Spain (Santana)
It's a Old & Beauty real 4Wd . Both ,are usual visits of Atacama Desert in 
the north of Chile . (the most arid world desert). If you want , send me a 
mail for information , or tourist review .
Jose Trisotti
jtrisott@reuna.cl

------------------------------

From: Russell Burns <burns@cisco.com>
Subject: LROA membership info fwd.
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 95 12:26:31 PDT

Forwarded message:
>From lro-owner@uk.stratus.com Sun Jan 15 22:45 PST 1995
From: UncleBrad@aol.com
Date: Mon, 16 Jan 1995 01:32:52 -0500
Subject: Re: Shameless

I check in every now & then to see what the hot topics are and when I saw the
blurb about shameless newsletter editors, I figures that I had better jump
in.

Actually, the blurb had more to do with clubs and whether their dues would be
going up. A few figures were given but not for the Land Rover Owners'
Association of North America.

Being the editor of that club's newsletter, It falls to me to provide the
information...

- Membership is still $20 per year.
- The quarterly "newsletter" is really a magazine (32pages for the winter
issue). It has an events calendar with most North American events, a News
section, a Club Report section telling you about recent club activities in N.
America,  a Tech Tips section which gives good information about how other
members maintain their Rovers, an articles section where you can read about
members' Rover adventures, a parts & service page which lists as many shops
as we know of who have worked on Rovers, a club listing which has all the
North American Rover clubs' addresses so that you can plug into a local group
of fanatics, a Military section where facts & figures about Rovers in the
military can be found, and a Marketplace section with 1-2 pages of Rovers and
Rover parts for sale. Besides that, it has lots & lots of photos.

The address is: 
LROA,NA
P.O. Box 1144
Paradise, CA 95967.

Boy, do I feel badly about this. I'll try not to let it happen again.

Brad Blevins

------------------------------

From: Easton Trevor <TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA>
Subject: Oils, Additives and etc
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 95 16:00:00 DST

I have just received a copy of a reprint from Road Rider that serves to 
convince me why I shouldn't use additional additives. It has been posted on 
Swedish Brick, rec.autos. tech and rec.moto before and is quite a long 
article, If anyone is interested I can send the file direct or fax a copy 
rather than clog the digest.

Trevor Easton     teaston@dqc2.dofasco.ca

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Sep 1995 16:16:43 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Francis J. Twarog" <ftwarog@moose.uvm.edu>
Subject: More ideas about national association...

Again, North American folks, I've been giving mucho thought to the 
feasability of a national association in the United States.  Would this 
be in conjunction with the LROA or a new identity all together?  This is 
the primary issue behind the event in Colorado I am planning - that you 
should have read of earlier in the digest.  Might I suggest floating 
around ideas on the digest itself about this issue?  My personal feeling 
is that a new identity would be a bit undertaking, but perhaps a 
neccessary one  - not to say that LROA or the Aluminum Workhorse should 
go.  No No!  I'm more or less thinking along the lines of something that 
you don't pay to be a member of, rather the club to which you belong 
would be responsible for communicating the information and ideas that are 
generated within the national association itself.  Dixon Kenner had a 
great suggestion - if there were an annual national association rally 
like the ARC has, maybe it could have a new venue each year - perhaps one 
club would be responsible for the event one year, then another club the next.
Who knows?  
	Why a national association?  I think there is a need due to the 
lack of communication between clubs.  I know that on occasion two clubs 
will got together - or happen to meet at the same non-club affiliated 
event, but it might be nice to organize big inter-club events, swap 
information or ideas etc. etc.  I think that this would serve everyone 
well - perhaps number of memberships will increase?  Perhaps other nice 
things would happen - at the very least, I think there might be a bit 
more enthusiasm when a big annual event exists where clubs are compelled 
to attend... who knows...

Frank Twarog
Burlington, Vt  USA

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Sep 1995 14:26:33 +0100
From: cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine)
Subject: Re: More ideas about national association...

 Francis J. Twarog <ftwarog@moose.uvm.edu> writes:

>Again, North American folks, I've been giving mucho thought to the 
>feasability of a national association in the United States.
...snip...

 No need to work up into a tizzy.  The LROA/NA is pretty much structured
 as a 'continental' association.  'NA' stands for North America, that is,
 the land area from the Panama Canal to the Bering Straight.  LROA/NA has
 Regional Coordinators that are in contact with local enthusiasts to plan
 meets and activities.  Maybe you'd like to volunteer your time and effort
 at the grass-roots level and organize a NE-USA region.  I'm certain there
 are many Rover owners there... you might even coordinate with David Ducat,
 203-642-6903, of Yankee Rovers in Lebanon, CT.

>I think there might be a bit more enthusiasm when a big annual event exists
 where clubs are compelled to attend...

 Compelled??  How do you do that?

 Michael Carradine, Architect                          Ph/Fax 510-988-0900
 Carradine Studios, PO Box 494, Walnut Creek, CA 94597 USA    <cs@crl.com>
 _________________________________________________________________________
 Mercedes-Benz Unimog 4x4 WWW page at:  http://www.crl.com/~cs/unimog.html

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Sep 1995 17:32:45 -0700
From: matts@cacilj.caciasl.com (Matt Snyder)
Subject: desert trip

I'm in the "slim chance, but maybe" category.

Matthew J. Snyder
NV 880-FNM

If it helps, there's a current DOD sticker on it.  Incidently, I used to do
reserve weekends at China Lake, and also at the reserve center in 
Bakersfield.  They used to fly me in to "Inyokern" airport once a month, 
from Reno via L.A.  Made for very long weekends.

-Matt

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Sep 1995 17:40:43 -0700
From: matts@cacilj.caciasl.com (Matt Snyder)
Subject: desert trip

oops, previous note intended for left coast folks.  Sorry world.
-Matt

------------------------------

From: Harincar@mooregs.com (Tim Harincar)
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 1995 19:57:07 -0700
Subject: Picky dealer shops

Greetings all,

I eluded to this is a post yesterday, and the more I think about it, the more 
its annoying me.

I called the local Land Rover dealership and service center to see about 
getting the brakes fixed on my '66 IIa (as was the subject of my post). I'm 
not opposed to doing them myself, but time is at a premium for me right now.  
I expected a reasonably expensive labor rate, but a flat refusal to service 
it? 

I asked if they worked on Series LR's, and the "service" guy said "Not if we 
can help it." 

I pumped him a little bit, and he said that they felt that they just didn't 
have enough experience with the old ones.

I guess I would have thought that anyone with two semesters of high school 
auto shop would be able to take one apart and put it back together... Its not 
like its *complicated* as far as cars go... (just a little leaky).

So, on a whim, I walked down the block from my office at lunch break to the 
local Jaguar dealership and spent about 20 minutes BSing with one of the shop 
managers. The guy was pretty suprised when I told him that the Rover shop 
refused to look at it.

He offered me this deal: Yes they would work on it; they used to be a Rover 
dealership in the '60s and '70s, so a couple guys probably even had a little 
experience. They might even still have manuals. He also said this: after the 
first snow, a lot of Jag owners button the cars up for the winter, so the 
shop work really drops off. He said they cut me $20 off the labor rate (from 
$65 to $45) if I could leave it for as long as they wanted it - might be a 
week, might be a month.Then they could work it in at their slow periods.
And, I could also get my own parts if I could get them cheaper.

Although I still may do the work myself, its nice to konw there is someone in 
town thats used to dealing with British cars thats not afraid of it (there 
are no british specialty shops here that I know of).

Anyone else have similar experiences? If I ever get to a position where I can 
afford a Disco or D90, or even a used one, I'll be heading to another 
dealership (in another state if necessary) to get it.

Tim
---
tim harincar
harincar@mooregs.com
'66 IIa 88 SW

------------------------------

From: ecoethic@rcinet.com
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 1995 21:02:17 -0400
Subject: Re: Avon's and Hulk's

My Hulk encounter in New Hampshire is the only situation in thirty years of 
off-roading that I have experienced like that. I guess I was very lucky, all things 
considered. The baby my wife was carrying then is now a ten year old who 
enjoys Land Rovers and will probably be driving that same Rover when he is old 
enough.

As for thinking badly of what might lurk on a New Hampshire logging road, 
there are wha-whoos and low-lives everywhere. During my six winters in New 
Hampshire, patrolling the northern one-third of New Hampshire and the 
Northeast Kingdom of Vermont for the federal government in a Dodge 
Ramcharger 4 X 4, I never encountered any similar situations. 

The two Hulks did about eighteen months time (1985 - 1986), so be on the 
lookout, they know what a Rover looks like and they probably are looking for a 
set of Avon's to test their 30-30 Cal. on. Hell, in today's environment, maybe 
they have 7.62 mm NATO Armor Piercing rounds by now. Maybe Tom should 
have opted for the NATO bullet-proof tires after all, but I don't think any of us 
should carry a weapon to protect ourselves. Its more likely to go off in an 
accident, or provoke a more violent response.

Due to the Avon's stiffer rolling resistance, I still think the rubber compound 
they use is tougher than average and is not as "sticky,"
and hence, more bullet-proof than average.

Walt Pokines

Tipp City, Ohio

In spite of it, I still miss the mountains of N.H.      

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Sep 1995 19:27:25 -0700 (PDT)
From: David Rosenbaum <rosenbau@u.washington.edu>
Subject: Re: Oils, Additives and etc

On Thu, 21 Sep 1995, Easton Trevor wrote: 
> I have just received a copy of a reprint from Road Rider that serves to 
> convince me why I shouldn't use additional additives. It has been posted on 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
> rather than clog the digest.
> Trevor Easton     teaston@dqc2.dofasco.ca
Dear Trevor:
I don't mind long messages and would like to receive the file. If it is 
too long for the LRO digest, please send directly. I suspect that many of 
the LRO digest readers would like it too. (and if not, it is so easy to 
<delete>.
By the way, I enjoy your messages to the digest.
Best, 
David R.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Sep 1995 23:17:20 -0500
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Bad timing

The production company called today...seems they want the Rover again.  Each 
time this summer, their requests have coincided with work trip weekends.  
Guess which weekend they want now?  Sept. 30 and Oct. 1.   Aarrrghhhh!

Otherwise, preparations for the rally are coming along well.  T-shirts are 
done, the beer is ordered, the caterer is confirmed.  Now, if we just get 
some rain to end the drought and fill the mud pit....
      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |       Rover Owners' Association of Virginia         |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 804-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    804-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 804-622-7056     |
      *-----------------------------------------------------*

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Sep 1995 19:24:21 -0700
From: "John Y. Liu" <johnliu@earthlink.net>
Subject: Thanks Re Front Axle Advice; Status

Grateful thanks to everyone who proferred advice concerning my front
hub/swivel ball rebuild project.  I may not have even read your responses
yet, as my e-mailer packed up on Monday and I've just now got it fixed.
After four days of being incommunicado, I had 260+ messages piled up on the
server, and so far I've only had the patience to download 100 of them.
I'll get to the rest later tonight!

But you'll be proud to know that even without any sage net advice I forged
onward and now have both hubs and swivels disassembled down to the axle ends
and all soaking in groaning buckets of feelthy degreaser.  Suprisingly few
troublesome nuts were met and most succumbed to the old
wedge-one-wrench-on-the-end-of-another trick, all but the one that earned a
taste of propane heat.  No good SPOTs either, save the signs of a make-do
approach that considered locktabs superfluous -- even on the brake backing
plates, <shiver>.  One more evening to toothbrush off all the degreased
parts, another to spray them fresh glossy black, and on Saturday the old
bushes and races get replaced and the pile all goes back together just in
time for our local British Car show on Sunday!

After reading your collective thoughts I'm springing for new hub bearings,
swivel ball bearings, bushes, locktabs, lockwashers, oil seals, brake shoes
- everything.  The next greasy faced sufferer who applies wrench to nut in
this area of the truck will not be me, I promise.

By the way, I learned that British Pacific in Burbank, CA is shortly
expecting a largish shipment of PWB aftermarket door interior panels,
high-and-low-back Deluxe seats, center cubbies, rear seats, hardtop sound
insulation kits, and the like, in basic black vinyl and assorted fabrics.
Prices not firmed up yet but I gather they'll be affordable, at least
compared to what I'm used to seeing in the USA.  I felt I could now safely
pass this on, since I've already reserved my set!  [Not "advertising", since
I've no affiliation with BP.]

------------------------------

From: Kelly Minnick <minnick@joker.chinalake.navy.mil>
Subject: Free-wheeling
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 95 21:04:50 PDT

RE: free-wheelin' hubs
I know.  Three hundred other people have covered this issue already, so I'll
be 301.  As I was re-building a friends trans/transfer case, I noticed that
the front part of the rear output shaft (transfer case) and the bushing in
the front output shaft were very worn and rough.  It quickly came to my
limited mental attention that the little splash oiler bar that is strapped
to the front output shaft does not spin and oil the bushing (or the front
output shaft bearing for that matter) when 4wd is not engaged on vehicles
with free-wheelin' hubs.  Now, the thread on engaging 4wd to lube the 
u-joints in the swivel balls has me confused.  If the axle stubs are not
turning, except for rust, who cares if they are oiled?  I mean, once a
month you could hit down the little lever and be happy!  But, in the transfer
case, the rear output is ALWAYS turning when the vehicle is in motion wether
the front output shaft is turning or not!  If it is not turning, it is not
getting oil and there is relative motion!  Should have put the splash thing
on the front of the REAR output shaft.  Anyhow, enough jawing...
Kelly Minnick  '73 88" Safari & '91 RR
Ridgecrest, CA

------------------------------

From: LANDROVER@delphi.com
Date: Fri, 22 Sep 1995 01:23:14 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Paint Code Help Needed

Howdy!

I'm fowarding a message from someone in Sri Lanka who needs some help
finding the correct paint code for his Land Rover. If anyone can help,
please reply to him directly.

Thanks
Mike Loiodice

------------------fowarded message-----------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Sep 1995 12:20 +0000 (GMT)
From: for_min@sri.lanka.net (Ministry of Foreign Affaires)
Subject: Land Rover Series IIA (1968 model)

        I am the owner of a Land Rover for the past 28 years, the details of
which are as follows.
        1.      Land Rover Series IIA (88 inch short wheel base)
        2.      Year of manufacture: 1968
        3.      Chassis No. 25209838 D
        4.      Engine No. 25209881 J
        5.      Right hand drive
        6.      Exported to Sri Lanka (Ceylon) from the United Kingdom 

        Since I wish to repaint it in the original colour I would be much
obliged if you would kindly inform me the original colour and paint code of
the above mentioned Land Rover.

        Thanking you in anticipation of an very urgent reply.

        Yours sincerely,

        Ahmed Jawad
        
        PS
        When replying please mark it for the attention of Mr. A. Jawad.

------------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Sep 1995 23:57:51 -0700 (PDT)
From: "John C. White III" <jcwhite3@well.com>
Subject: Re: desert trip

"Left Coast" is the west coast of the United States.

On Thu, 21 Sep 1995, Matt Snyder wrote:

> To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net
> oops, previous note intended for left coast folks.  Sorry world.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
> oops, previous note intended for left coast folks.  Sorry world.
> -Matt

------------------------------

  END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST 
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