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msg | Sender | lines | Subject |
1 | Mike Rooth [M.J.Rooth@lu | 29 | Number Plates,Old Type |
2 | David John Place [umplac | 5 | [not specified] |
3 | azw@aber.ac.uk (Andy Woo | 12 | Re: D90 Alum Hardtop for 96 |
4 | azw@aber.ac.uk (Andy Woo | 22 | Come-a-long question |
5 | azw@aber.ac.uk (Andy Woo | 20 | Re: Which Gasket Sealant? |
6 | Easton Trevor [TEASTON@D | 31 | Timing |
7 | Easton Trevor [TEASTON@D | 9 | LROA Alumin(i)um Workhorse |
8 | "R. Pierce Reid" [PREID@ | 22 | Land-Rover for sale |
9 | Easton Trevor [TEASTON@D | 23 | Bullet proof tyres |
10 | SM2592@TAMUG3.TAMU.EDU | 16 | RE: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest |
11 | SM2592@TAMUG3.TAMU.EDU | 20 | Rovers in Texas |
12 | jhong@haiku.com (John Ho | 20 | typo in - land of falling coconuts... |
13 | Michael Slade [slade@tel | 30 | Re: Waving |
14 | Paul.Smail@Washcoll.EDU | 15 | Mid-Atlantic Rover Rally |
15 | Harincar@mooregs.com (Ti | 42 | Time for a brake job... |
16 | mvdscape@iafrica.com | 23 | Overdrive Gearbox |
17 | skidmore@mail02.mitre.or | 21 | [not specified] |
18 | Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus [A | 7 | Re: Number Plates,Old Type |
19 | skidmore@mail02.mitre.or | 23 | [not specified] |
20 | Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus [A | 273 | Tutorial: On spray-painting a Land Rover frugally. |
21 | "John Benner" [benner@kl | 24 | I Need a Land Rover |
22 | Easton Trevor [TEASTON@D | 336 | Engine Oils |
23 | "TeriAnn Wakeman" [twak | 48 | Re: I Need a Land Rover |
24 | NADdMD@aol.com | 24 | Rollcages |
25 | gpool@pacific.pacific.ne | 24 | Never lock only one? |
26 | Dixon Kenner [dkenner@em | 20 | Re: Aluminum Workhorse |
27 | DEBROWN@SRP.GOV | 95 | A few things I missed... |
28 | "Tom Rowe" [TROWE@AE.AGE | 18 | Series brake booster. |
29 | "Tom Rowe" [TROWE@AE.AGE | 28 | Re: Come-a-long question |
30 | "Tom Rowe" [TROWE@AE.AGE | 26 | Re: Bullet proof tyres |
31 | mvdscape@iafrica.com | 24 | Re: Handy Compressor |
32 | TONY YATES [tonyy@waalp | 23 | Re: Come-a-long question |
33 | "Wingtang, Simon" [SWing | 58 | RE. Spongy Brakes |
34 | Rob Bailey [baileyr@cuug | 23 | Re: LR Split Rims |
35 | BobandSueB@aol.com | 17 | those bleeding brakes |
36 | BobandSueB@aol.com | 36 | Land Rover Owners Assoc, NA |
37 | DEBROWN@SRP.GOV | 37 | '87 RR intermittent performance problem. |
38 | rover@pinn.net (Alexande | 19 | The low-down on tops |
39 | jpappa01@interserv.com | 84 | Re: Cagey 90s |
40 | dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu | 29 | Re: Never lock only one? |
41 | "John C. White III" [jcw | 30 | Re: The low-down on tops |
42 | jgoldman@acs.bu.edu | 76 | Some simple queries... |
43 | RICKCRIDER@aol.com | 14 | LROA Membership? |
44 | James Kirkpatrick - INEN | 20 | 101 FC Restoration? |
45 | cs@crl.com (Michael Carr | 32 | Re: For sale! |
46 | cs@crl.com (Michael Carr | 20 | Re: LROA Membership? |
From: Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk> Subject: Number Plates,Old Type Date: Wed, 20 Sep 95 12:22:35 BST Someone in the US wanted addresses for the old style English plates,white/alloy on black ground. I've come across two suppliers in an old Classic&Sports Car magazine.This is a 1992 issue,but chances are one of the two firms still exists. Premier Plates 23 Laurel Avenue Ripley Derbyshire Tel 01773 747295 Fax 01773 742029 CHD Automotive Unit 26 Riland Industrial Centre Sutton Coldfield West Midlands B75 7BB Tel 0121 747 4570 Cheers Mike Rooth ------------------------------[ <- Message 2 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950921 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 1995 06:32:42 -0500 (CDT) From: David John Place <umplace@cc.UManitoba.CA> unsubscribe ------------------------------[ <- Message 3 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950921 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: azw@aber.ac.uk (Andy Woodward) Subject: Re: D90 Alum Hardtop for 96 Date: Wed, 20 Sep 1995 12:40:05 UNDEFINED \the interior finishings, I am holding off on getting the fiberglas top to \see if the aluminium top would be possible. One big (read:expensive) part \will be the full rear door. Anyone actually tried fitting a Series 3 rear tailgate and lift flap assembly to a 90 instead of teh rear door? ------------------------------[ <- Message 4 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950921 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: azw@aber.ac.uk (Andy Woodward) Subject: Come-a-long question Date: Wed, 20 Sep 1995 12:46:42 UNDEFINED \They also have a 8000# come-a-long with a 12' cable for $28.99, \complimenting snatch block for $23.99. Now, 12' of pull isn't a lot, but \the real question is, is it enough? The electric winches in the catalog \(superwinch and ramsey) at $400 - $500 are nice, but that's a heck of a lot \more scratch. So could someone more experienced at getting stuck venture a \guess as to what percentage of the stuck cases a come-a-long would get you \out relative to an electric winch? Is it half as useful? Thanks. high lift jack will get you out of anything for 50quid. Add a couple of comealongs at 15 quid each........ Alternatively a simple length of 14mm polypropylene rope (bought from a chandler for 10 quid or so) along with the knowledge to make on of the various bush-winches with a bit of wood.......... Electric winches are for the rich. ------------------------------[ <- Message 5 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950921 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: azw@aber.ac.uk (Andy Woodward) Subject: Re: Which Gasket Sealant? Date: Wed, 20 Sep 1995 12:59:11 UNDEFINED >I've used the Permatex brand 'Blue' and 'Copper' versions....both of which >are the rubbery silicone caulk type sealers. Used all at various times on >my Alfas with decent success. I only want to do this once, (at least for a >long while). >What are some of you LRO tech types finding the most success with? \ \I just replaced...1,000 miles ago...the sump, head, and valve cover gaskets \without a sealant of any kind. I coated gasket surfaces with oil prior to \installation except for the head gasket which is "self sealing." No leaks \of any kind yet. For what it's wrth, my view n gasket sealants is I dnt use em. The gasket at the crrect trque should seal just fine. If it doesnt, summat's wrng. All gasket sealant does is make it a right bugger to get the gasket ff next time. ------------------------------[ <- Message 6 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950921 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Easton Trevor <TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA> Subject: Timing Date: Wed, 20 Sep 95 08:43:00 DST I recall many years ago a chapter in the British Racing Drivers Club Silver Jubilee Book that explained how to find the optimum timing for your vehicle. The procedure was as follows. 1 Locate an incline up which you can drive at 30 mph in top gear. 2 choose two marks on the incline about 1/4 mile apart. 3. Drive past the first mark at 30 mph and floor the accelerator simultaneous starting a stop watch. 4. Stop the watch at the second mark. 5. Advance the timing one click and repeat steps 3 and 4. 6.If the time improves (gets shorter) then advance the timing some more and repeat. (Of course, if your second try is slower than the first reverse the direction of adjustment and retard the timing until a maximum is reached.) When the time decreases then go back one click ,from the direction you were adjusting, to the optimum. I don't know how well this will work when you can't buy high octane leaded fuel anymore and pinking may limit the amount of advance before the maximum speed is reached. But it is worth a try especially if you dont have a timing mark. I keep meaning to go out and try this myself but haven't got a round tuit yet. Trevor Easton, Grimsby Ontario, 1962 SWB SIIA ------------------------------[ <- Message 7 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950921 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Easton Trevor <TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA> Subject: LROA Alumin(i)um Workhorse Date: Wed, 20 Sep 95 09:01:00 DST What is the current address for membership of LROA? Trevor Easton ------------------------------[ <- Message 8 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950921 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: 20 Sep 95 08:59:27 EDT From: "R. Pierce Reid" <PREID@csi.compuserve.com> Subject: Land-Rover for sale This was posted on the Internet, for anyone interested: The vehicle is a 1965 Land-Rover Series IIa hard top. It has the Rover 2 1/4 Petrol engine, 4 spd. gearbox with 2 spd. transfer case. It has the Kodiak high output heater snd 15" tires and wheels. I refinished the vehicle in the oirginal Lt. Green & Limestone while I owned it. The present owner is a career Navy man who purchased it from me approx. 2 years ago. He is only asking $7000.00 which is less then he paid for it. The vehicle is in Virginia; R. A. Salazar, Box 32920 River Road Harpers Ferry, WV 25425. A friend of his is helping him to sell it, GEORGE RAY, INTERNET:george.ray@nccbbs.com Sounds like a decent deal. Cheers, R. P. Reid ------------------------------[ <- Message 9 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950921 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Easton Trevor <TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA> Subject: Bullet proof tyres Date: Wed, 20 Sep 95 09:32:00 DST Regarding the Avon tyres and the bullet proofness of tyres in general. In the early 70s I had a project that required the determination of the effects of a burst air spring on railway trucks (Like the highway truck airides but bigger). To experiment on ways to cause the rupture old tyres were used because they were a lot cheaper to destroy. Various projectiles were fired at the tyres and the only thing that could penetrate them was a sharp flechette fired by an air blast at close range and perpendicular. The method of choice in the end was to use an explosive charge taped to the air spring. Based on the above I believe that, despite what we see in the movies, the lightlyhood of any tyre being punctured by gunfire, except at close range or large calibre, is remote especially in the heavier duty ratings that off road vehicles use. So we can all drive secure in the knowledge that we won't be disabled by some bozo shooting at our tyres. Just be careful if he gets frustrated and raises his line of sight. Trevor Easton, Grimsby, Ontario ------------------------------[ <- Message 10 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950921 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: SM2592@TAMUG3.TAMU.EDU Date: Wed, 20 Sep 1995 8:48:52 -0500 (CDT) Subject: RE: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest All, I live in Galveston, Texas and I'm currently performing a frame up restoration on my '66 SER.IIA, safari. I love the work, and I love my Rover; but I think I may be the only series IIA owner in the entire great state of Texas.... If anyone knows anyone in Texas who also owns a Series Rover, please let me know. Rusty Smith ------------------------------[ <- Message 11 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950921 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: SM2592@TAMUG3.TAMU.EDU Date: Wed, 20 Sep 1995 8:54:04 -0500 (CDT) Subject: Rovers in Texas All, I live in Texas and I'm currently performing a frame-up restoration on my '66 Ser. IIA 109", Safari. I love the work, and I can relate so well to the stories I read on this digest. However, I suspect I may be the only Ser. Rover owner in the great state of Texas.... If anyone knows anyone who also owns a ser. rover in Texas, will you please let me know. Rusty Smith Galveston, Tx 409-744-4427 ------------------------------[ <- Message 12 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950921 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 1995 08:04:50 -0700 From: jhong@haiku.com (John Hong) Subject: typo in - land of falling coconuts... OOOPS! my po box is 2120 NOT 2122! >I am moving back to Hawaii! I'd appreciate hearing from any other Hawaiian >rover owners. (808 593-3782 email stays the same - jhong@haiku.com) >If y'awl want to trade postcards - send me one at POB 2122, Honolulu, HI, >96805 and I'll send one back aloha! John John Hong Haiku Systems Notes Business Partner Consultant jhong@haiku.com 408-249-8340 ------------------------------[ <- Message 13 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950921 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 1995 08:05:58 -0700 (PDT) From: Michael Slade <slade@teleport.com> Subject: Re: Waving In regards to waving, I myself was caught up in the 'return the greeting' arm wave and was driving home from work in Utah and passed a SI pickup on an overpass. I was waving wildly at the driver, and I think he thought I was creazy. It took him a minute to figure out what I was doing, but he did manage to give a wave back. Since then I've sold my SIIA '88 (ouch) and gotten my wife a Volvo wagon. Well, I have seen several Discos, RR's, and a couple of series vehicles, but somehow don't have the courage to wave as I once did in my '88. Russ, is there a cure for this? Can I get my enthusiasm to wave back? My raving for Rovers has not subsided (just ask my wife), but somehow I feel 'out' of the club now. Yes, a series rover is in my future (don't ask), and my loalty will never die. Just a depressed roverless babbler, Michael slade@teleport.COM Public Access User -- Not affiliated with Teleport Public Access UNIX and Internet at (503) 220-1016 (2400-28800, N81) ------------------------------[ <- Message 14 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950921 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: 19 Sep 95 13:43:27 EDT From: Paul.Smail@Washcoll.EDU (Paul Smail) Subject: Mid-Atlantic Rover Rally Where, exactly, (or even approximately) is the Mid-Atlantic Rover Rally being held? I'd very much like to attend if only to check out the various Rovers in their element. Thanks very much, Paul Smail Chestertown, Md ------------------------------[ <- Message 15 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950921 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Harincar@mooregs.com (Tim Harincar) Date: Wed, 20 Sep 1995 11:35:20 -0700 Subject: Time for a brake job... Hi List The recent discussions of how many times one needs to pump their brakes has got me thinking about the brakes on my '66 IIa 88 as well. Mine need one pump before I get real stopping power, and if I have to stand on them, like when a moron decides to pull out in front of me, I get a nasty pull to the right. I'm convinced that my hub seals are bad, there is grease leaking to the insides of my wheels, so that I'm sure is contributing. Questions: How do I tell if the brake lines need to be replaced? RN has them on special, so now seems to be a good time to get those if needed. I've never worked on brakes before, except in the past to change out a master cylinder (on another car). I don't know what bad springs, drums, etc look like. Should I buy parts and have a shop work on it (if the cost is not outragious)? I mean, I can handle it if my own repairs leave me stranded someplace, but brakes are pretty critical - I'd hate for something nasty to happen because I made a mistake. Unfortunatly, I don't know any other Series owners in town, so I don't have anyone who knows what they are doing assist while I learn. The Land Rover dealer here won't touch it. Wimps. Flatly refused it when I called for an estimate. And I don't know of any other shops that have worked on Rovers before (its great to have a unique vehicle - sometimes...). Any info greatly appreciated. Tim --- tim harincar Moore Graphics Services harincar@mooregs.com Minneapolis, MN '66 IIa 88 SW ------------------------------[ <- Message 16 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950921 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: mvdscape@iafrica.com Date: Wed, 20 Sep 1995 18:46:48 +0000 Subject: Overdrive Gearbox Hallo Rovers, A local Land Rover dealer advised me to use a special oil in my overdrive gearbox namely "ALMASOL". This is a reddish oil looking very similar to automatic transmission oil. ( By the way.. I have a SIIA). What bogs me down is the cost of Almasol at approx. 14 times the price of standard gearbox oil. Is this the only oil to use in a O/D box or is standard g/box oil good enough??? Any comments or advice would be appreciated! Thanks ! Marius van der Spuy (Cape Town, South Africa) Replies to - mvdscape@iafrica.com ------------------------------[ <- Message 17 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950921 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Subject: re: Aluminum top for '94 D90 From: skidmore@mail02.mitre.org (William E. Skidmore) Date: Wed, 20 Sep 95 12:59:29 -0400 There's been a lot of talk about modifying the exterior cage to be able to fit the new/old aluminum top to a '94 D90, but no one has thought of this approach: Identify the additional parts that would be needed to extend the existing external cage on the D90 to the rear of the vehicle, using components from the NAS D110 as a source. Although not all of those parts would be needed (different wheelbases and all), the vertical supports could be used, and doubtless, some of the horizontal spans as well. It seems that this would be both a safer design and aesthetically more pleasing then modifying the external and internal cages, and would eliminate the need for the internal cage entirely. It would also provide a solid base for a decent roof rack! Bill Skidmore ------------------------------[ <- Message 18 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950921 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com> Date: 20 Sep 95 10:15:28 EDT Subject: Re: Number Plates,Old Type it was me, Mike. THanks! -ajr ------------------------------[ <- Message 19 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950921 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Subject: Handy Compressor From: skidmore@mail02.mitre.org (William E. Skidmore) Date: Wed, 20 Sep 95 13:09:31 -0400 Just a short one: Seen a chevy pickup the other day coming off the beach, and the guy went about reinflating his tires. Normal thing, right? Wrong. The inflation hose extended from his grill. I thought that he had taken a Coleman compressor or something similar and simply extend the hose through the grill. WRONG! He had gone to the junk yard, and found an air conditioner compressor, hooked it to the block by maching brackets, and ran a belt to it off the pully. Ran the power to a switch on the dash, ran the compressed air line through several lube and moisture bowls, and out through the grill. Claimed to get over 100psi from it! Any thoughts on doing this the Rovers? Bill Skidmore ------------------------------[ <- Message 20 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950921 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com> Date: 20 Sep 95 13:14:17 EDT Subject: Tutorial: On spray-painting a Land Rover frugally. Well, as there was some interest in my painting saga a while ago, I decided to write it up for the edification and amusement of all and sundry. If anyone sees any glaring (or not so glaring) errors, please bring them to my attention so I can fix them. We don't want to confuse some poor sod who actually tries to DO this... This is also being published in the OVLR newsletter, as someone needs to prove to these poor souls that you don't have to paint a Rover with a paint roller - even if you CAN. {This per Dixon Kenner, who swears it's been done...} Spray-painting your Land Rover on a buget without a compressor - by Al Richer After asking endless stupid questions I finally worked up the nerve to take a spray gun to my old compatriot Churchill (a 109 pickup). Not being over-endowed with money and with the local shops charging 600-1K American for a paint job, I decided to attack the problem myself. Warning: This is NOT a job for the faint of heart. These are NASTY chemicals which can wreak some serious hell on your biochemistry if you get too intimate with them. At a minimum, consider a good dual-cartridge respirator and safety glasses a cost of the job - you'll thank me. A word on materials: The paints and such I used are not considered top of the line, but I saw as the easiest and most cost-effective way to get a good-looking Rover for a good price. What I ended up using was the Delstar line of paints sold by PPG - Ditzler, I believe, on the other side of the pond. This is a multipart acrylic enamel paint formulation that is tolerant of mistakes in mixing and such. The paint was a 3-part system, requiring the paint itself, reducer dependent on the temperature you'll be spraying in, and hardener for best gloss and abrasion resistance. You don't absolutely need the hardener, but to my mind it makes a world of difference in the paint's flow characteristics and gloss. Under this, I applied a one-part etching metal primer to the bare aluminum spots, and PPGs DZL 34 lacquer primer over the etching primer and the old paint. If you strip to bare metal, you will need to use the etching metal primer everywhere. If your old paint is still good, you really don't need to do this. I ended up buying 6 quarts of finish color and a gallon of primer, as well as 2 quarts of the etching metal primer. With this I ended up using 2 gallons of lacquer thinner (to thin the primer and for cleanup) and a gallon of 70-85F reducer for the finish color. Add a quart of hardener to your shopping list, and you're ready to go. You won't use all of it, but it keeps for years in tightly sealed cans (except for the hardener, which must be discarded). This was not $1.98. I believe the whole mess ended up costing me in the neighborhood of $200. If you can still get lacquer paints (I am told that they are now banned in the US because of VOC restrictions by the EPA) this can be done considerably cheaper, as the multipart chemistries are pricey, but much more durable. Tools Required: For this job, I ended up buying a Wagner FineCoat HVLP spray rig from Damark for $119.00. It was a factory-reconditioned unit which looked new when I took it out of the box. I figured that I could resell it with little loss, as new they're in the $200 range. However, nobody's getting it out of my hands now <grin>. Seriously, if you do any shop work at all the blower itself is handy for cleaning and the sprayer does a good job with non-latex (light-bodied) paints. The rest of the tools I used were part of my standard compliment of shop toys. Most of these can be rented our bought used cheaply. Power sander (A must, unless you LIKE carpal tunnel syndrome) Sandpaper, grits from 120 to 400 (I used 120, 220 and 400) Large numbers of disposable lint-free rags (sheets from Goodwill and a cooperative 10-year old with scissors and a talent for destruction) A hand sanding block for small areas the sander won't penetrate Dual-cartridge respirator with organic solvent cartridges (the shop that sells you the paint can help) Safety Glasses (A MUST, AND USE THEM!) A relatively dust-free area to work in (inside if possible, outside under a tarp to act as a windbreak) Lot of old newspapers 2 or 3 rolls of quality masking tape - splurge and buy the blue stuff at the paint store Patience and a realistic attitude, and a VERY understanding spouse Optional: Auto Body dolly set with hammers (I bought my cheap ones for $10 in a flea market new) Wire brush on an electric drill (for rust removal) Drum sander on above drill (for SERIOUS rust removal - grinds metal nicely) Propane torch and aluminum solder for aluminum crack repair Beginning to paint: Surface inspection and preparation Before I lifted the first tool to the body of my car, I spent the better part of an hour carefully inspecting all of the surfaces I wanted to recoat, determining what needed doing and where. Some areas were fine, with only weathering damage to the paint. Others were not so good, showing dents, corrosion, torn aluminum, rust on steel parts and completely washed-away paint under the Diesel filler neck. The floor of the cargo bed was a disaster requiring scraping and removal of all the galvanized strips because of thirty years accumulation of minerals and crud. These got painted separately, as the galvanizing was completely gone. Each one of these areas needs to be treated differently. The weathered areas I simply finish-sanded at 220 grit to get the new primer to adhere. Badly damaged paint I stripped completely with 120 grit sandpaper in the power sander, or spray-on paint stripper for the really tough or curved bits the sander couldn't handle. The body damage was another matter over and above the finish. The torn aluminum I ended up soldering closed with low-temp aluminum solder and a propane torch, then sanding and spot-puttying to level the damaged area. The rusty metal was treated much the same, grinding out the rust with a drum sander on a drill, rust inhibiting, then puttying the pits. Most of this type of damage showed up on the leading edges (the breakfast and front wings) The little dings and dents I pretty much left alone - a Land-Rover with perfect bodywork would look awfully silly.... All of this bodywork took my spare time over a day or four - doing repairs and such. I didn't sand the body sections until I was ready to spray - fresh sanded areas take paint better. Spray Gunning - A manual of arms If you've never used a spray gun before, your Rover is NOT the place to start. Before you start spraying the aluminum beast, buy a quart or two of Rustoleum and repaint your patio furniture, your cat's litter box or anything but your car. Seriously, getting some inexpensive paint and painting other items is a good way to get the basic technique down before you do it for real on your car. Even just spraying sheets of cardboard or hardboard from appliance cartons is a good way to get the basics down. Make all your mistakes on something you're not going to regret for years. The best advice I have is to go to the local library and locate an Audels manual or any reference on spray painting. it isn't hard to do, but a little forewarning about it can make a world of difference in the quality of the final job. If you use the same device I did, it only has one adjustment, and that's for paint volume sprayed. It's very easy to adjust, as all you have to do is test-spray until you get a volume that is comfortable to your movement style. As a piece of advice, turn it all the way off, then increase it a quarter-or-half turn until you're happy with it. The manual with the gun set can give you other suggestions. The basics are: Always start and end your passes OFF the surface at both ends, This eliminates blotching where you begin and end. Hold the spraygun a constant distance from the work. This gives even paint distribution. Spray a good wet coat, but don't overdo - it will run on vertical surfaces. Remember, you'll be putting on multiple coats - so the first coat doesn't have to cover it all. If you blow it, you can always resand and do it again. This ain't life or death - relax. Alas, unto the breach, dear friends - let's get to work. Finally - he's actually going to talk about painting the car! The approach I took was to do one part of the vehicle at a time, working within my own limitations. With me, this meant shooting a fender and the breakfast, or a door and a fender or some similar area at a time. I find this to be the easiest approach, as trying to do the whole car at once will quickly drive you scatty. First of all, remove and paint any items you can off the car. For me this was the bonnet, the wings, the doors, roof and other bolt-on bits like the tailgate. As I had very little interior space, adopting this tactic let me paint in a clean environment for much of the vehicle, saving the outside work for as little of the car as possible. I began by prepping the surfaces I was going to work with. For most of the car, this took the form of sanding with 120-grit emery to remove damaged paint and smooth good painted areas, then resanding with 220 after washing the area to remove dust. Another wash came after the 220, then a quick wipe with a paint-thinner dampened rag to knock out the last traces of dust. Before actually spraying paint, use the masking tape and newspapers to mask off any adjacent areas or other colors to prevent contamination by overspray. The HVLP gun doesn't blow much overspray, but there is some and better safe than sorry is the watchword here. I removed lights, mirrors, headlight rims and other small parts for cleaning and repainting, you can do this also or simply mask as necessary. I then sprayed the bare metal areas with etching primer, following the dilution instructions on the can. Once this was dry, I sprayed the area with 3 coats of primer, then power-sanded the top coat with 400-grit paper. Another wash-down to remove dust then a dry cloth wipe, and I spray on 3 coats of thinned color paint, following the manufacturer's directions as to mixing of the paint with reducer and hardner. After painting was completed (give it a half-hour or so to let the paint surface harden) remove the making tape on the adjacent areas to avoid it ruining your paint job by peeling up the surface coat. I was averaging about 4 hours per section, counting sanding, priming and painting. Masking of areas not to be painted was an extra half hour or so. Conclusion: There is no cheap and cheerful way to get a good paint job on a Rover. Brush painting works and works quite well, but is very laborious and not inexpensive in materials cost. The Wagner method, while requiring a bit of machinery purchase, has the advantage of giving a clean level paint coat in less time than brush methods, and with a similar materials cost. ------------------------------[ <- Message 21 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950921 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "John Benner" <benner@klamath.esa.lanl.gov> Date: Wed, 20 Sep 1995 11:35:40 -0600 Subject: I Need a Land Rover Hello, I'm looking for a SIIA or SIII hard top (either 88 or 109) for use as both a restoration project and a serious weekend expedition vehicle , it's gotta be in good running order running and the body needs to be in good shape (I don't car much about the paint). I am having no luck finding anything decent locally (New Mexico, USA). In fact, I found one that had been painted gold metallic...yuck! Well maybe I do care a bit about the paint... Can anyone help? I'm willing to fly-out and drive one back a reasonable distance. Thanks, John Benner benner@lanl.gov ------------------------------[ <- Message 22 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950921 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Easton Trevor <TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA> Subject: Engine Oils Date: Wed, 20 Sep 95 13:55:00 DST Forwarded from the Swedish Brick. No excuse not to use the right stuff now! ---------- From: hazard Date: Monday, September 18, 1995 11:20AM More Than You Ever Wanted to Know About Motor Oil By Ed Hackett (edh@maxey.unr.edu) ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- --- - Edits: v1.0 First there was 1.0. Before that there was darkness. v1.1 Change in description of viscosity. v1.2 Updated info on AMSOIL (courtesy of Morgan McArthur ) Choosing the best motor oil is a topic that comes up frequently in discussions between motoheads, whether they are talking about motorcycles or cars. The following article is intended to help you make a choice based on more than the advertising hype. Oil companies provide data on their oils most often referred to as "typical inspection data". This is an average of the actual physical and a few common chemical properties of their oils. This information is available to the public through their distributors or by writing or calling the company directly. I have compiled a list of the most popular, premium oils so that a ready comparison can be made. If your favorite oil is not on the list get the data from the distributor and use what I have as a data base. This article is going to look at six of the most important properties of a motor oil readily available to the public: viscosity, viscosity index (VI), flash point, pour point, % sulfated ash, and % zinc. Viscosity is a measure of the "flowability" of an oil. More specifically, it is the property of an oil to develop and maintain a certain amount of shearing stress dependent on flow, and then to offer continued resistance to flow. Thicker oils generally have a higher viscosity, and thinner oils a lower viscosity. This is the most important property for an engine. An oil with too low a viscosity can shear and loose film strength at high temperatures. An oil with too high a viscosity may not pump to the proper parts at low temperatures and the film may tear at high rpm. The weights given on oils are arbitrary numbers assigned by the S.A.E. (Society of Automotive Engineers). These numbers correspond to "real" viscosity, as measured by several accepted techniques. These measurements are taken at specific temperatures. Oils that fall into a certain range are designated 5, 10, 20, 30, 40, 50 by the S.A.E. The W means the oil meets specifications for viscosity at 0 F and is therefore suitable for Winter use. The following chart shows the relationship of "real" viscosity to their S.A.E. assigned numbers. The relationship of gear oils to engine oils is also shown. _______________________________________________________________ | SAE Gear Viscosity Number | | ________________________________________________________ | [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)] | ____________________________ | | |10| 20 | 30 | 40 | 50 | | | |__|_____|____|_____|______| | ______________________________________________________________ 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 26 28 30 32 34 36 38 40 42 viscosity cSt @ 100 degrees C Multi viscosity oils work like this: Polymers are added to a light base (5W, 10W, 20W), which prevent the oil from thinning as much as it warms up. At cold temperatures the polymers are coiled up and allow the oil to flow as their low numbers indicate. As the oil warms up the polymers begin to unwind into long chains that prevent the oil from thinning as much as it normally would. The result is that at 100 degrees C the oil has thinned only as much as the higher viscosity number indicates. Another way of looking at multi-vis oils is to think of a 20W-50 as a 20 weight oil that will not thin more than a 50 weight would when hot. Multi viscosity oils are one of the great improvements in oils, but they should be chosen wisely. Always use a multi grade with the narrowest span of viscosity that is appropriate for the temperatures you are going to encounter. In the winter base your decision on the lowest temperature you will encounter, in the summer, the highest temperature you expect. The polymers can shear and burn forming deposits that can cause ring sticking and other problems. 10W-40 and 5W-30 require a lot of polymers (synthetics excluded) to achieve that range. This has caused problems in diesel engines, but fewer polymers are better for all engines. The wide viscosity range oils, in general, are more prone to viscosity and thermal breakdown due to the high polymer content. It is the oil that lubricates, not the additives. Oils that can do their job with the fewest additives are the best. Very few manufactures recommend 10W-40 any more, and some threaten to void warranties if it is used. It was not included in this article for that reason. 20W-50 is the same 30 point spread, but because it starts with a heavier base it requires less viscosity index improvers (polymers) to do the job. AMSOIL can formulate their 10W-30 and 15W-40 with no viscosity index improvers but uses some in the 10W-40 and 5W-30. Mobil 1 uses no viscosity improvers in their 5W-30, and I assume the new 10W-30. Follow your manufacturer's recommendations as to which weights are appropriate for your vehicle. Viscosity Index is an empirical number indicating the rate of change in viscosity of an oil within a given temperature range. Higher numbers indicate a low change, lower numbers indicate a relatively large change. The higher the number the better. This is one major property of an oil that keeps your bearings happy. These numbers can only be compared within a viscosity range. It is not an indication of how well the oil resists thermal breakdown. Flash point is the temperature at which an oil gives off vapors that can be ignited with a flame held over the oil. The lower the flash point the greater tendency for the oil to suffer vaporization loss at high temperatures and to burn off on hot cylinder walls and pistons. The flash point can be an indicator of the quality of the base stock used. The higher the flash point the better. 400 F is the minimum to prevent possible high consumption. Flash point is in degrees F. Pour point is 5 degrees F above the point at which a chilled oil shows no movement at the surface for 5 seconds when inclined. This measurement is especially important for oils used in the winter. A borderline pumping temperature is given by some manufacturers. This is the temperature at which the oil will pump and maintain adequate oil pressure. This was not given by a lot of the manufacturers, but seems to be about 20 degrees F above the pour point. The lower the pour point the better. Pour point is in degrees F. % sulfated ash is how much solid material is left when the oil burns. A high ash content will tend to form more sludge and deposits in the engine. Low ash content also seems to promote long valve life. Look for oils with a low ash content. % zinc is the amount of zinc used as an extreme pressure, anti- wear additive. The zinc is only used when there is actual metal to metal contact in the engine. Hopefully the oil will do its job and this will rarely occur, but if it does, the zinc compounds react with the metal to prevent scuffing and wear. A level of .11% is enough to protect an automobile engine for the extended oil drain interval, under normal use. Those of you with high revving, air cooled motorcycles or turbo charged cars or bikes might want to look at the oils with the higher zinc content. More doesn't give you better protection, it gives you longer protection if the rate of metal to metal contact is abnormally high. High zinc content can lead to deposit formation and plug fouling. The Data: Listed alphabetically --- indicates the data was not available Brand VI Flash Pour %ash %zinc 20W-50 AMSOIL (old) 136 482 -38 <.5 --- AMSOIL (new) 157 507 -44 --- --- Castrol GTX 122 440 -15 .85 .12 Exxon High Performance 119 419 -13 .70 .11 Havoline Formula 3 125 465 -30 1.0 --- Kendall GT-1 129 390 -25 1.0 .16 Pennzoil GT Perf. 120 460 -10 .9 --- Quaker State Dlx. 155 430 -25 .9 --- Red Line 150 503 -49 --- --- Shell Truck Guard 130 450 -15 1.0 .15 Spectro Golden 4 174 440 -35 --- .15 Spectro Golden M.G. 174 440 -35 --- .13 Unocal 121 432 -11 .74 .12 Valvoline All Climate 125 430 -10 1.0 .11 Valvoline Turbo 140 440 -10 .99 .13 Valvoline Race 140 425 -10 1.2 .20 Valvoline Synthetic 146 465 -40 <1.5 .12 20W-40 AMSOIL 124 50 -49 --- --- Castrol Multi-Grade 110 440 -15 .85 .12 Quaker State 121 415 -15 .9 --- 15W-50 Chevron 204 415 -18 .96 .11 Mobil 1 170 470 -55 --- --- Mystic JT8 144 420 -20 1.7 .15 Red Line 152 503 -49 --- --- 5W-50 Castrol Syntec 180 437 -45 1.2 .10 Quaker State Synquest 173 457 -76 --- --- Pennzoil Performax 176 --- -69 --- --- 5W-40 Havoline 170 450 -40 1.4 --- 15W-40 AMSOIL (old) 135 460 -38 <.5 --- AMSOIL (new) 164 462 -49 --- --- Castrol 134 415 -15 1.3 .14 Chevron Delo 400 136 421 -27 1.0 --- Exxon XD3 --- 417 -11 .9 .14 Exxon XD3 Extra 135 399 -11 .95 .13 Kendall GT-1 135 410 -25 1.0 .16 Mystic JT8 142 440 -20 1.7 .15 Red Line 149 495 -40 --- --- Shell Rotella w/XLA 146 410 -25 1.0 .13 Valvoline All Fleet 140 --- -10 1.0 .15 Valvoline Turbo 140 420 -10 .99 .13 10W-30 AMSOIL (old) 142 480 -70 <.5 --- AMSOIL (new) 162 520 -76 --- --- Castrol GTX 140 415 -33 .85 .12 Chevron Supreme 150 401 -26 .96 .11 Exxon Superflo Hi Perf 135 392 -22 .70 .11 Exxon Superflo Supreme 133 400 -31 .85 .13 Havoline Formula 3 139 430 -30 1.0 --- Kendall GT-1 139 390 -25 1.0 .16 Mobil 1 160 450 -65 --- --- Pennzoil PLZ Turbo 140 410 -27 1.0 --- Quaker State 156 410 -30 .9 --- Red Line 139 475 -40 --- --- Shell Fire and Ice 155 410 -35 .9 .12 Shell Super 2000 155 410 -35 1.0 .13 Shell Truck Guard 155 405 -35 1.0 .15 Spectro Golden M.G. 175 405 -40 --- --- Unocal Super 153 428 -33 .92 .12 Valvoline All Climate 130 410 -26 1.0 .11 Valvoline Turbo 135 410 -26 .99 .13 Valvoline Race 130 410 -26 1.2 .20 Valvoline Synthetic 140 450 -40 <1.5 .12 5W-30 AMSOIL (old) 168 480 -76 <.5 --- AMSOIL (new) 186 464 -76 --- --- Castrol GTX 156 400 -35 .80 .12 Chevron Supreme 202? 354 -46 .96 .11 Chevron Supreme Synt. 165 446 -72 1.1 .12 Exxon Superflow HP 148 392 -22 .70 .11 Havoline Formula 3 158 420 -40 1.0 --- Mobil 1 165 445 -65 --- --- Mystic JT8 161 390 -25 .95 .1 Quaker State 165 405 -35 .9 --- Red Line 151 455 -49 --- --- Shell Fire and Ice 167 405 -35 .9 .12 Unocal 151 414 -33 .81 .12 Valvoline All Climate 135 405 -40 1.0 .11 Valvoline Turbo 158 405 -40 .99 .13 Valvoline Synthetic 160 435 -40 <1.5 .12 All of the oils above meet current SG/CD ratings and all vehicle manufacture's warranty requirements in the proper viscosity. All are "good enough", but those with the better numbers are icing on the cake. The synthetics offer the only truly significant differences, due to their superior high temperature oxidation resistance, high film strength, very low tendency to form deposits, stable viscosity base, and low temperature flow characteristics. Synthetics are superior lubricants compared to traditional petroleum oils. You will have to decide if their high cost is justified in your application. The extended oil drain intervals given by the vehicle manufacturers (typically 7500 miles) and synthetic oil companies (up to 25,000 miles) are for what is called normal service. Normal service is defined as the engine at normal operating temperature, at highway speeds, and in a dust free environment. Stop and go, city driving, trips of less than 10 miles, or extreme heat or cold puts the oil change interval into the severe service category, which is 3000 miles for most vehicles. Synthetics can be run two to three times the mileage of petroleum oils with no problems. They do not react to combustion and combustion by-products to the extent that the dead dinosaur juice does. The longer drain intervals possible help take the bite out of the higher cost of the synthetics. If your car or bike is still under warranty you will have to stick to the recommended drain intervals. These are set for petroleum oils and the manufacturers make no official allowance for the use of synthetics. Oil additives should not be used. The oil companies have gone to great lengths to develop an additive package that meets the vehicle's requirements. Some of these additives are synergistic, that is the effect of two additives together is greater than the effect of each acting separately. If you add anything to the oil you may upset this balance and prevent the oil from performing to specification. The numbers above are not, by any means, all there is to determining what makes a top quality oil. The exact base stock used, the type, quality, and quantity of additives used are very important. The given data combined with the manufacturer's claims, your personal experience, and the reputation of the oil among others who use it should help you make an informed choice. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- --- - Last modified: Tue Jul 26 14:01:32 1994 ------------------------------[ <- Message 23 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950921 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 95 11:09:56 -0700 From: "TeriAnn Wakeman" <twakeman@apple.com> Subject: Re: I Need a Land Rover In message <199509201738.MAA09379@butler.uk.stratus.com> "John Benner" writes: > I'm looking for a SIIA or SIII hard top (either 88 or 109) for use ; as both a restoration project and a serious weekend expedition vehicle > , it's gotta be in good running order running and the body needs to be in > good ; shape (I don't car much about the paint). >; I am having no luck finding anything decent locally (New Mexico, USA). In > fact, ; I found one that had been painted gold metallic...yuck! Well maybe I do > care a bit about the paint... > fact, ; Can anyone help? I'm willing to fly-out and drive one back a reasonable > distance. > fact, ; Thanks, > John Benner > benner@lanl.gov So John, you say you are looking for a 88 or 109 hardtop. I just happen to have a 109 hard top for sale. Its a full tropical top with the roof vents, ovel window and sun shield. The sides have two windows each. It is Limestone white. Looks OK could use some fresh paint. The front domes over the front vents are creased where a DPO (Dreaded Previous Owner) ran it aground on a low overhang. It would be an easy restoration project. I'm asking US$700 for the full top and the window sides (the sides are a lot harder to find than the top). ;*) TeriAnn Wakeman FOR SALE: 1968 MGBGT. British racing green with twakeman@apple.com black interior. overdrive. recently US$ 2500 rebuilt engine & brakes. very minor surface rust at paint scratches ------------------------------[ <- Message 24 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950921 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: NADdMD@aol.com Date: Wed, 20 Sep 1995 14:17:24 -0400 Subject: Rollcages I am looking to find a rollcage for my 88" for which I have both the hoop set and canvas top and a hardtop. I would prefer to not have to remove the rollcage when switching between the two tops. To add complexity, I would also like to place the inward facing folding rear benchseats in the back. I have not found a suitable rollcage advertised although some Jeep Wranglers have a rollcage similar to what I am seeking. A few months ago, someone was advertising a rollcage which I believe they claimed replaced the hoop set and would still fit under the hardtop. If this exists, it would be exactly what I am seeking. As always, any info would be appreciated. Thanks Nate Dunsmore Rocking Horse Farm Boring, MD USA 21020 (410)429-4964 ------------------------------[ <- Message 25 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950921 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 1995 11:24:39 -0700 From: gpool@pacific.pacific.net (Granville B. Pool) Subject: Never lock only one? Michael, You said: >You should NEVER run with one hub locked and one unlocked. Why not? The "shift-on-the-fly" set-ups such as my Dodge Dakota and many others have uses a vacuum disconnect on only one front axle shaft, in lieu of freewheeling hubs. This makes the still connected shaft turn under a no-load condition (provided you actually have a front differential and not a spool). This seems to be a quite workable compromise between the complete disconnect provided by free-wheeling hubs and the convenience of cab-mounted actuation. Cheers, Granville B. Pool, Redwood Valley, Alta California Norte, USA Several old Land-Rovers and other semi-collectible vehicles <gpool@pacific.pacific.net> (707)485-7220 Home; (707)463-4265 Work ------------------------------[ <- Message 26 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950921 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 1995 14:26:30 -0400 (EDT) From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.emr.ca> Subject: Re: Aluminum Workhorse On Tue, 19 Sep 1995, Roger Sinasohn wrote: > Right now, the membership is heavily biased towards the west. I don't know > the details, but this seems due partially to a bad reputation on the east > coast because of one person being less than honest. (I've only heard this, > dunno anymore, don't care to.) One person and the inactivity of a couple others. You're right in general terms on the eastern view and rep. > I've agreed to handle membership and treasurer for the time being. So that's > out of the way. But we still need to figure out where the club is going. So you are hunting for a secretary and a president. An opportunity for someone with some vision and some time. ------------------------------[ <- Message 27 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950921 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 95 11:39:34 MST From: DEBROWN@SRP.GOV Subject: A few things I missed... FROM: David Brown Internet: debrown@srp.gov Computer Graphics Specialist * Mapping Services & Engr Graphics PAB219 (602)236-3544 - Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486 SUBJECT: A few things I missed... I can't really argue much with your reply. As I said, the LC is a very capable rig, closest competitor to a LR. Just a few comments... >> The LR only came with 1.11" axle shafts with 10(!) splines (Rover type) or >> 1.24" shafts with 24 splines (Salisbury type) compared to the Cruiser which [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)] >> side comparison between a LC 70 series and a Defender 90 on the week-end and >> it couldn't have had more than a 8" ring) No doubt true... The weakest link in the drive train. But adequate for the 4-cyl powerplant they were designed for. >> FWIW, the LR came with 4.7 R&P ratios compared to the LC's 4.11's. I don't >> know about the tranny/x-fer though. >> One more thing (and this is based on complete speculation on my part) I >> don't think the LR's tranny/x-fer is as stout as a Cruiser's (don't most 350 >> etc swaps require changing the above combo? I could very well be wrong here Agreed. Except in the case of the "stage one V8". Many V8 and V6's have been slid into the LR but finesse is required while handling the extra HP. Also, the IIa gearbox is stronger than the series III. >> I have a question. Why is it that everyone seems to have to replace their >LR's frames with the new galvanized ones? Is is just because of electrolysis? The advantage of the LR, again, is the weight of the body, and the *body's* non-rusting qualities. The frame, like *any* other rig can and will rust if not taken care of. The difference, I believe, is that after 20 to 30 years of use the LR can be "almost like new" with only a frame, whereas most others will require a *lot* of body work as well. Again, only my opinion, but maybe the reason you don't hear of other makes replacing the frame is because the *whole rig* is rusted out and not worth salvaging. >> As far as sidehill, isn't the LC a good couple of inches wider (offsetting >> the LR's lesser above-centre-of-gravity weight?) A Toy LC HZJ75 pickup (2" >> wider track than a 40) will do a 39 degree sidehill according to factory >> brochures. I also have a German LC book, and if I'm reading it correctly, >> the 40 is actually the same, despite its narrower track. I've heard of people taking the Series I LR's on 47 degree side slopes, and the tires slipping across the rock surface rather than rolling over, and again, I've heard of a "published" side slope of around 45 degrees, but can't verify that. >> It's kind of sad though. LR seems to be abandoning its one BIG advantage >> over the LC--the aluminum body. Aren't the roof, pillars, and doors on the >> Disco steel? True. No doubt under the pressures of the "safety people" and their regulations. As for quotes from other resources... Everyone has an opinion. And they do have some good comments about dealer support and reputation for reliability. as for the quote: >> "Current YNissan" Patrols and YLand Cruiser" 80 series have longer >> suspension travel than the Range Rover and, with the aid of optional >> cross-axle diff locks, can actually out climb one in severe terrain." I wonder how it compares to the Defender, and make note of the "with the aid of optional cross-axle diff locks," and wonder what the "optional cross-axle diff locks" would do for the RR or Defender. On a related thread... As for the poor misguided individual who actually wrote publicly that the Trooper was better than the Defender as an offroad vehicle, I'll reserve comment, so as not to embarrass them. Let's just hit the trails! Dave (Rover) Brown #=====# #========# -------,___ _______ |___|__\___ |___|__|__\___ |--' | | \_|_ / /__|__\___ | _ | |_ |} | _ | | |_ |} | _ |--+--|_ | \_/-\___/-\_|} "(_)""""(_)" "(_)"""""""(_)" ||_/_\___|__/_\_|} ( ) ( ) (_) (_) 1971 "88" IIa 1970 "109" IIa 1994 Discovery (Sold) '87 Range Rover LIC: LION B8 Historic plates (Too hard to "draw") $8500 bargain #=======# Never doubt that a small group of individuals |__|__|__\___ can change the world... indeed, it's the only | _| | |_ |} thing that ever has. "(_)""""""(_)" -Margaret Mead ------------------------------[ <- Message 28 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950921 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU> Date: Wed, 20 Sep 1995 08:41:05 GMT -0600 Subject: Series brake booster. Someone was wondering if the Austin booster was the same as the LR. I looked in my Lucas catalog and the numbers didn't match. If you'll give me the model and year of the Austin I'll double check. I wasn't sure of them. My replacements parts catalog covers years '65-'76. Tom Rowe UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research 608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578 trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck in places even more inaccessible. ------------------------------[ <- Message 29 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950921 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU> Date: Wed, 20 Sep 1995 09:01:56 GMT -0600 Subject: Re: Come-a-long question > \more scratch. So could someone more experienced at getting stuck venture a > \guess as to what percentage of the stuck cases a come-a-long would get you > \out relative to an electric winch? Is it half as useful? Thanks. I have both an electric and a PTO (not on the same LR). There have only been a couple of times that I would have had trouble with a come-a-long. And even then I probably would have managed, just with alot more work & time, but then as Ghandi said, "There are more things to life than increasing it's speed." (I think he used a come-a-long.) I like my winch because there's little enough room in my LR and leaving a come-a-long attched to the outside makes it prone to rust. I used my PTO winch for woodlot work. If you go the come-a-long route you'll definately want a couple of extra 25' or 50' lengths of cable. Tom Rowe UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research 608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578 trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck in places even more inaccessible. ------------------------------[ <- Message 30 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950921 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU> Date: Wed, 20 Sep 1995 09:29:27 GMT -0600 Subject: Re: Bullet proof tyres Easton Trevor writes: Snip > Based on the above I believe that, despite what we see in the movies, the > lightlyhood of any tyre being punctured by gunfire, except at close range or [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)] > won't be disabled by some bozo shooting at our tyres. Just be careful if he > gets frustrated and raises his line of sight. Were you firing at the tread or sidewall? I wonder if the sidewalls of tires would be more easily penetrated by projectiles of the lead type since they are generally only one or two ply, while the tread, especially 16"ers, are at min 6ply, and usually 8ply. Tom Rowe UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research 608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578 trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck in places even more inaccessible. ------------------------------[ <- Message 31 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950921 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: mvdscape@iafrica.com Date: Wed, 20 Sep 1995 22:01:41 +0000 Subject: Re: Handy Compressor > He had gone to the junk yard, and found an air conditioner compressor, hooked > it to the block by maching brackets, and ran a belt to it off the pully. > Any thoughts on doing this the Rovers? I have the same thing in my SIIA and it works like a dream. The trick is to get an "old" one with a lot of wear on it's pistons. You the fill it about halfway with oil for lubrication (because there is no more coolant acting as lubrication). If you use a new one it will definately cease. Important is a decent oil and water trap. I inflate a tyre from 90kPA to 200kPA in about one and a half minutes. (Hope my units are correct) Also handy for inflating a rubberduck. Marius van der Spuy (Cape Town, South Africa) Replies to - mvdscape@iafrica.com ------------------------------[ <- Message 32 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950921 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 1995 06:12:19 +0800 (WST) From: TONY YATES <tonyy@waalpha.wa.BoM.GOV.AU> Subject: Re: Come-a-long question I may have missed something here, but can someone please tell me what a "come-a-long" is!!?? Thanks. ========================================================== () ( ) () Tony Yates ( ) ( ) ( ) Bureau of Meteorology ( )( ) ( ) Port Hedland ( ) )( ) Western Australia ( ) ) -------- ------------ ph: (091) 401 350 \\\**\\**\ fax: (091) 401 100 \***\*\ \\*\ email: A.Yates@bom.gov.au \\ ========================================================== ------------------------------[ <- Message 33 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950921 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Wingtang, Simon" <SWingtan@vttsvic1.telecom.com.au> Subject: RE. Spongy Brakes Date: Thu, 21 Sep 95 06:34:00 EST Sorry Alan I missed your original post but I know how you feel. I rebuilt the brakes on my SWB ( 80" ) 1952 SI a while ago as I wasn't happy with the way they felt. I found that the previous owner had decided to fit the same size wheel cylinders front and back and stuck in a proportioning valve to stop the back locking up. So I decided to replace the lot and get some height back into the pedal and just to make things better fit a power booster. So I bought all the gear, well the wheel cylinders and brake fluid anyway, a good friend who worked at a brake reline place re-did my shoes for me :-), and proceeded to pull the brake system apart. I stripped everything, dismantled all the pipes as well as the master cylinder and reservoir, cleared the lot and put in new seals. Just to make sure everything was going to work I even assembled all rubber parts with rubber grease, you know, the expensive stuff. I re-did all the piping to add in the booster and fitted the new wheel cylinders, shoes and as they looked a bit suss. I even put in new adjusters. I had the drums checked and although you "should" machine the drums if you fit new linings they were already close to maximum diameter thanks to the age of the car and had no marks to speak of so I left them as they were. So after fitting the lot and double checking everything including the springs I filled up with fluid and started to bleed. Now I've bled brakes on a few cars so I knew what I was doing and after expelling a goodly amount of air free fluid from each cylinder I checked the pedal and found it went to the floor and took 3 pumps to come up. So I re-bled the brakes and found there was no change. This went on for 2 days and I went through 2 liters of fluid. I had spoken to numerous people about this and got the usual adjusters/springs/shoes stories but I knew these were all ok. So in the end I mentioned it passing to a mate and he said that he heard of a guy who basically bled his brakes and then just undid the bleed screws and let the fluid drain for a few mins to clear the air. Well I was grabbing at straws so that's what I did, started at the far rear wheel and just undid the screw and walked away for 5 min. Came back and did it up, topped up the reservoir, undid the near rear screw and walked away again. I did this for all wheels and I then checked the pedal, it was the best pedal I'd ever had on the Landy. In fact I thought something was wrong it was so good, the truck stopped better that ever and it even out braked an Alfa when I had a trailer on the back ( but that's another story ). I don't think that this will work for you though as your bleed screws are in a different position but I find it helps when I know I'm not the only one with a problem. Hope this makes you feel a bit better. Simon Wing-Tang swingtan@vttsvic1.telecom.com.au ------------------------------[ <- Message 34 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950921 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 1995 17:30:32 -0600 (MDT) From: Rob Bailey <baileyr@cuug.ab.ca> Subject: Re: LR Split Rims >When I bought my Lightweight from Al Tocci back in '86, I had a choice of >NATO's bullet proof tires or two piece rims. I chose the two piece rims. >It's nice to know I can still get bullet proof tires if I want them. >Who needs Chicago when you have NH logging roads. I have a pair of Land Rover split rims, and was wondering if anybody else has any experience with them. I haven't been using them, and one person I talked to indicated that he thought they were dangerous. I have heard a fair amount about the dangers of split rims exploding etc..., but really don't know what makes them so dangerous. The rims have a single piece back and centre, and a separate rim "front" section bolted on just outside the centre. Do regular (dangerous) truck split rims have the same design? Are these rims useful, should I be using them (I have a fairly good pair of really tall 7.50x16's on them now) or should I just carefully remove the tires and mount them on one piece rims? Thanks in advance, Rob ------------------------------[ <- Message 35 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950921 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: BobandSueB@aol.com Date: Wed, 20 Sep 1995 19:40:29 -0400 Subject: those bleeding brakes It has come to my attention twice last week that some of the brake impared lro's automatically think if the pedal is low, then the brakes need bleeding. And the pedal stays low so maybe bleeding isn't going right. My input just to try to help out, is... If the pedal is low, but still firm, then only adjusting is needed to bring the pedal up. If the pedal is spongy whether low or high, then bleeding is necessary. Hope this helps someone. Bob B LROA membership ------------------------------[ <- Message 36 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950921 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: BobandSueB@aol.com Date: Wed, 20 Sep 1995 20:07:12 -0400 Subject: Land Rover Owners Assoc, NA Dear LRO's There have been several messages put out by LROA members concerning the happenings at the Club's General Meeting held September 17, 1995. As stated in one message, there will be a letter going out to all members from LROA President, Steve Hill, detailing the areas where our Club needs your help. Please be assured, that LROA is still a viable organization, albiet in need of more VOLUNTEER participation. Bob and I have been asked to remain in the Treasurer/Membership positions on the Steering Committee. Roger Sinasohn who had offered to take over our functions in order to help fill the void, was asked to step into the Secretary function, but has declined. This is a position that needs to be filled. Brad Blevins is stepping down as Newsletter Editor, and Jimmy Patrick will be assuming this position. We wish at this time to thank Brad for all his time and efforts, and for putting so much of himself into the AW. We also want to thank him for graciously offering to help Jimmy as he steps in as Editor. Regards, Sue Bernard and Bob Bernard Treasurer/Membership, LROA,NA BobandSueB@aol.com ------------------------------[ <- Message 37 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950921 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 95 17:22:07 MST From: DEBROWN@SRP.GOV Subject: '87 RR intermittent performance problem. FROM: David Brown Internet: debrown@srp.gov Computer Graphics Specialist * Mapping Services & Engr Graphics PAB219 (602)236-3544 - Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486 SUBJECT: '87 RR intermittent performance problem. Has anyone any ideas that may help me troubleshoot an intermittent performance problem I'm having with my '87 RR? Problem: Occasionally it'll have *very* little power at all throttle positions except full throttle. Items replaced: Fuel pump, Fuel filter, "Sock" filter on the fuel pump, Throttle "potentiometer" (throttle position switch), and the water temp sensor. Vacuum lines have been checked as well, and the fuel line blown out with air. I'm told it could be: Throttle air meter, (very expensive) ignition amplifier, distributor, coil, ECU (More $$$) or even an alternator. Apparently this has been a problem with the vehicle for quite some time, as the shop that I wes referred to ("British Sports Car Service" in Phoenix) where the vehicle was maintained by the PO (Previous Owner) was well aware of the problem and told me what they had done to date to try to resolve this. Anyone hear of a similar problem and may want to offer a guess?? Thanks, #=======# Never doubt that a small group of individuals |__|__|__\___ can change the world... indeed, it's the only | _| | |_ |} thing that ever has. "(_)""""""(_)" -Margaret Mead ------------------------------[ <- Message 38 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950921 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 1995 20:55:56 -0500 From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice) Subject: The low-down on tops Just what is Rover doing here? In the US, you can only get hardtops for the D-90 for an astronomical price in case you don't like the original rag top. A chap from the Netherlands wrote me a while ago looking for a soft-top; seems all he could find on the continent were hard tops. Is this some kind of perverse marketing campaign? Bring vehicles in-country in only one guise and charge an arm and a leg for anything else? What happened to "The World's Most Versatile Vehicle"? *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----* | A. P. (Sandy) Grice | | Rover Owners' Association of Virginia | | 1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730 | | E-mail: rover@pinn.net Phone: 804-622-7054 (Day) | | 804-423-4898 (Evenings) FAX: 804-622-7056 | *-----------------------------------------------------* ------------------------------[ <- Message 39 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950921 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: jpappa01@interserv.com Date: Wed, 20 Sep 95 18:18:31 PDT Subject: Re: Cagey 90s The final version of the NAS D90 SW is still unknown at this writing. The issue of the type of rollover device is still something that LRNA has not firmed up to the point of releasing definitive info to the dealer network or the buying public... I hope that we will all know something before the actual vehicles begin to arrive. According to a well-placed source at LRNA, the *400* D90 SW's are already largely presold. This should be no surprise to anyone who witnessed the 1993 NAS D110 -where all 500 were sold within 1 week of the announcement of availability. As far as the cage? Lotsa questions about retrofitting earlier D90s from those who do not like the fiberglass top. Safety Devices in the UK mfrs. integrated external cages for not only D90s but also series landies. Safety Devices was the OEM for the NAS D110 external cage and the D90 cages I have seen in the UK look damned similar! Surely this would be a cheaper alternative to some of the scenarios posted on the net. So perhaps the used D90 top/Safety Devices external cage would be a suitable alternative? Safety Devices usually places ads in LRO/LRW. Anyway. Food for thought. My personal thoughts (not that anyone really asked for them) on LROA's *dilemma?* I too thought that the best function of the LROA was to serve as an information resource through its AW voice. I am not sure as to the absolute benefit(s) of a *national club* when so many regional clubs are popping up these days. I think that the ARC/member clubs approach in the UK is a viable method of serving as an info. source for member clubs as well as to have a link (not as much now as in earlier times) with Solihull. LROA could serve as a similar *server* if member clubs felt the need to have an aegis organization. Our BSROA club is a member of ARC as are many other overseas clubs. We enjoy the benefits of ARC membership as far as having access to LR information on a timely basis as well as certain limited use of the LR logo. Things like the ARC National Rally is hosted each year by a different member club (in the UK) thereby by definition spreading the work load over the years and avoiding the *board of directors* from burning out and having to *step down.* Even in the local/regional clubs - these detractors are a constantly real issue. Without a lecture - you (as a member) get out what you put in. As Dixon says - the timeliness and quantity of the publication is certainly key. Also key is having a variety of events available to members during the course of the year. Having both leaves the non-renewing member no one but himself to blame. Through the electronic world and the net as well as large regional events there is virtually realtime communication between clubs. Just like right now (o.k. - tape delay). Is the need for a *national* club obviated by improvements in information systems? Perhaps. Sandy Grice tried to get something going a couple of years ago along these lines by trying to get clubs to lineup into a new national organization. Not a whole lot happened. Meantime, most of the older clubs have grown of late, are becoming more active, and we are seeing new club names on virtually a montly basis. I have always dreamt of having a *NATIONAL RALLY* with some LRNA/LRUK participation along the lines of the Jeepers Jamboree. This is a truly large scale type of event that could not happen without major corporate sponsorship. But for something like this to truly be national in such a large continent as North America - would the nationals simply be defacto *regionals?* It is a non-issue in the UK for the ARC since the geographic constraints make each venue pretty much accessible to any LR enthusiast. So maybe I favor the continued development of the club scene and greatly encourage much more interclub event participation and information-sharing. Which many of them do. Right here in the digest... I hope that LROA stays alive and puts its efforts into continually improving its publication - which I think of late is outstanding. Perhaps it could someday become the NA version of LRO/LRW! Just my thoughts... cheerz Jim - oh my god - I've been on-line *HOW LONG*??? `67 2A 88 5.0L hybrid `67 2A 109 5.0L hybrid `68 2B 110 F/C Diesel `70 P6B 3500S `90 Range Rover County `93 D110 (#457/500) `95 D90 #1958 ------------------------------[ <- Message 40 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950921 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au (Daryl Webb) Subject: Re: Never lock only one? Date: Thu, 21 Sep 1995 12:07:11 +0930 (CST) Granville questions: > >You should NEVER run with one hub locked and one unlocked. > Why not? The "shift-on-the-fly" set-ups such as my Dodge Dakota and many > others have uses a vacuum disconnect on only one front axle shaft, in lieu > of freewheeling hubs. I dont know how the dodge or toycar/mitsipussy systems work but I'm pretty sure that on a standard diff just having one axle driving one side gear would do nasty things to the rest of the diff. That side gear is going to drive the bevel gears at high speed (just like doing a one wheel burnout but for a lot longer), probably spinning the oil out and overheating/seizing the whole assembly. Just the problem seen in the centre diffs on the later vehicles. (like mine at the moment, opened it up to re-shim and found that one of the gears has at some stage *almost* siezed on its cross shafts, too far gone to re-use, so.. new shaft$, gear$, shim$, guess at the clearances (or use 230R/T specs?) reassemble and find someone to re-balance.... Arghhhh) -- Daryl ------------------------------[ <- Message 41 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950921 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 1995 21:22:27 -0700 (PDT) From: "John C. White III" <jcwhite3@well.com> Subject: Re: The low-down on tops Good question, Alex. I also wonder whether or not Land Rover North America, Land Rover Sulihull, or any of the dealers are on the network and monitoring the traffic. I mentioned to my dealership that there was an international and a regional group of LROs on the Internet, and that it was interesting to read about others experiences with their vehicles. What I got back was a look of non-comprehension, sort of a "Internet??? That's some sort of computer, isn't it?" I found this especially disturbing given that where I live (San Francisco) is to computers what Newcastle is to coal. Land Rover and its affiliates really need to pay more attention. Marketing is only the beginning. Cheers! John '95 Discovery San Francisco, California On Wed, 20 Sep 1995, Alexander P. Grice wrote: > To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net > Just what is Rover doing here? In the US, you can only get hardtops for the [ truncated by lro-digester (was 22 lines)] > | 804-423-4898 (Evenings) FAX: 804-622-7056 | > *-----------------------------------------------------* ------------------------------[ <- Message 42 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950921 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: jgoldman@acs.bu.edu Subject: Some simple queries... Date: Thu, 21 Sep 1995 01:12:22 -0400 (EDT) After spending some weeks "listening in" on the wealth of knowledge that is traded on the list, I've decided to de-lurk, as it were, and ask a few questions. First of all, after spending a few of my younger, more formative years growing up in the presence of Land Rovers (Kenya) I've decided that I now want a Rover worse than a coffee habit! Specifically, I'm looking for a Series IIA or III (IIA preferable). I'll cite, ruggedness, simplicity, and a desire to learn its inner workings as some of my reasons for wanting a Rover. Not to mention, I've always admired the Land Rover marque, and I am in need of transportation. It would technically be my first vehicle, and after all, in 20 years, which sounds better? My first vehicle was a Toyota? Or, my first vehicle was a Land Rover, and well... look, here it still is! Browsing Web pages and FAQs on the subject have enhanced my knowledge a great deal, considering all I previously knew about Rovers was what they looked like. Thank you to all who put time and dedication into preparing them. They've been a great help. There are are, however, a few items which have eluded me. Having limited knowledge of auto mechanics, and 4x4s in general (I know the basics, I'm not mechanically declined, and catch on fairly quick, I hope) I've come up with a few simple (should be) questions. I'd appreciate any and all help I can get. 1. What were the different models of IIA and III? I'm familiar with the Pickup and Station Wagon? What's a Safari, etc? Also, while the designation Pickup leaves little to the imagination, what are the details on the SW? 2. What were the various types of tops? I am familiar with the standard canvas soft top and the hardtop, but I have also heard the terms Bikini, Bimini, and Tropical, etc. What are these? 3. I'm looking to use the Rover as daily transportation on the road. I don't anticipate much heavy off-roading in the near future. With that in mind, I know (as with all 4x4s) that the standard Petrol Rover engines perform with abysmal gas mileage. What are the options for Diesel conversion, and what problems, advice, tips, or tricks exist? 4. I know that the number one thing to watch out for when looking for a used Rover is frame, frame, frame. What are outriggers? 5. What are differential locks? When are they used, and why? 6. Having driven all syncho gearboxes all my life, I'm a bit unfamiliar with the technique of double-clutching. I know that the Series IIA has doesn't have synchro on 1 and 2. How do I get the two things to work together (double clutching and non-synchro gearboxes)? 7. I'm located in the US (Boston, MA). Aside from the big parts distributors (Rovers North, etc.) how hard is it to find parts for Series vehicles? 8. What should I pay for a stock Rover in good condition in the Northeast? How much should I add for an Overdrive? I don't have deep pockets... I'm looking for an 88" IIA. 9. A standard four speed gearbox with Overdrive unit gives me a selection of 16 gears. What are the differences between High and Low modes? 10. Are there any Series owners in my vicinity (Boston, MA) that would be willing to give a guided tour of their Rovers? Well, that's an even ten. Thanks for all your replies. I'm sure that'll hold me for awhile. Aside from Hemmings, the only other publication near-by that I've found Series vehicles for sale in is the local Want Advertiser. Anyone know of another source? They do seem very far a few between... Thanks again. -- Jeff Goldman --> E-Mail: jgoldman@acs.bu.edu ------------------------------[ <- Message 43 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950921 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: RICKCRIDER@aol.com Date: Thu, 21 Sep 1995 01:27:40 -0400 Subject: LROA Membership? How does one gain information and join LROA and recieve and/or join Aluminum Workhorse? I see lots of postings on the matter but no info on joining in. Thanks. Rick Crider KD4FXA Monroe NC 66 Slla 109" (Hugo) .............for sale....to good home. 73 Slll 88" (Jesse) 88 Range Rover ------------------------------[ <- Message 44 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950921 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 1995 01:54:45 -0400 (EDT) From: James Kirkpatrick - INEN/F94 <jkirkpat@acs.ryerson.ca> Subject: 101 FC Restoration? If anyone is undertaking or has finished a 101 Forward Control and is well versed in the ways of the winch, OR HAS A MANUAL (I have been told that this is a fabled documnent that doesn't actually exist) please let me know. Tom met a Steve Denis from New York who claimed to have the 101FC winch manual when he was at the Ottawa Vally meet this summer. If Steve is on the list or if someone knows him I'd like to talk to him. Thanks- Jay Kirkpatrick 55 Ser.I 58 Ser.II 70 Ser.IIA Broken 101FC winch!! ------------------------------[ <- Message 45 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950921 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 1995 23:31:32 +0100 From: cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine) Subject: Re: For sale! ____________________________________ >Dan O' Rosa has to sell his car :-< 1961 88" Hard Top with lift gate new clutch new slave and master cyl fuel tank just relined all new brake cyl, lines, drums resurfaced points, plugs, cables new generator, new battery, new 16" tyres runs strong factory manuals some spares asking $5 million will take $3500 big discount! call Dan Conner at 707-546-4277 showroom at 630 wright street, Santa Rosa (about one hour north of San Francisco/Oakland, CA USA) ____________________________________ Dan Conner's Land Rover 'Holly' can now be seen at http://www.crl.com/~cs/conner.html -Michael Carradine cs@crl.com ------------------------------[ <- Message 46 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950921 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 1995 00:09:50 +0100 From: cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine) Subject: Re: LROA Membership? Rick Crider <RICKCRIDER@aol.com> writes: >How does one gain information and join LROA and recieve and/or join Aluminum >Workhorse? I see lots of postings on the matter but no info on joining in. Send your name, address and Rover information (if any) along with the US$20 annual dues to: LROA/NA Membership, PO Box 1144, Paradise, CA 95967 USA (Canada and Mexico add US$4, all other countries add US$6 for mailing). You will be issued a membership number, window sticker (?), and will receive the Aluminum Workhorse four times a year, among other benefits. Michael Carradine, Architect Ph/Fax 510-988-0900 Carradine Studios, PO Box 494, Walnut Creek, CA 94597 USA <cs@crl.com> _________________________________________________________________________ Mercedes-Benz Unimog 4x4 WWW page at: http://www.crl.com/~cs/unimog.html ------------------------------[ <- Message 47 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950921 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
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