Land Rover Owner Message Digest Contents


[ First Message Last | Table of Contents | <- Digest -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

Send Submissions Land-Rover-Owner@Land-Rover.Team.Net

msgSender linesSubject
1 Mike Rooth [M.J.Rooth@lu29Number Plates,Old Type
2 David John Place [umplac5[not specified]
3 azw@aber.ac.uk (Andy Woo12Re: D90 Alum Hardtop for 96
4 azw@aber.ac.uk (Andy Woo22Come-a-long question
5 azw@aber.ac.uk (Andy Woo20Re: Which Gasket Sealant?
6 Easton Trevor [TEASTON@D31Timing
7 Easton Trevor [TEASTON@D9LROA Alumin(i)um Workhorse
8 "R. Pierce Reid" [PREID@22Land-Rover for sale
9 Easton Trevor [TEASTON@D23Bullet proof tyres
10 SM2592@TAMUG3.TAMU.EDU 16RE: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest
11 SM2592@TAMUG3.TAMU.EDU 20Rovers in Texas
12 jhong@haiku.com (John Ho20typo in - land of falling coconuts...
13 Michael Slade [slade@tel30Re: Waving
14 Paul.Smail@Washcoll.EDU 15Mid-Atlantic Rover Rally
15 Harincar@mooregs.com (Ti42Time for a brake job...
16 mvdscape@iafrica.com 23Overdrive Gearbox
17 skidmore@mail02.mitre.or21[not specified]
18 Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus [A7Re: Number Plates,Old Type
19 skidmore@mail02.mitre.or23[not specified]
20 Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus [A273Tutorial: On spray-painting a Land Rover frugally.
21 "John Benner" [benner@kl24I Need a Land Rover
22 Easton Trevor [TEASTON@D336Engine Oils
23 "TeriAnn Wakeman" [twak48Re: I Need a Land Rover
24 NADdMD@aol.com 24Rollcages
25 gpool@pacific.pacific.ne24Never lock only one?
26 Dixon Kenner [dkenner@em20Re: Aluminum Workhorse
27 DEBROWN@SRP.GOV 95A few things I missed...
28 "Tom Rowe" [TROWE@AE.AGE18 Series brake booster.
29 "Tom Rowe" [TROWE@AE.AGE28 Re: Come-a-long question
30 "Tom Rowe" [TROWE@AE.AGE26 Re: Bullet proof tyres
31 mvdscape@iafrica.com 24Re: Handy Compressor
32 TONY YATES [tonyy@waalp23Re: Come-a-long question
33 "Wingtang, Simon" [SWing58RE. Spongy Brakes
34 Rob Bailey [baileyr@cuug23Re: LR Split Rims
35 BobandSueB@aol.com 17those bleeding brakes
36 BobandSueB@aol.com 36Land Rover Owners Assoc, NA
37 DEBROWN@SRP.GOV 37'87 RR intermittent performance problem.
38 rover@pinn.net (Alexande19The low-down on tops
39 jpappa01@interserv.com 84Re: Cagey 90s
40 dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu29Re: Never lock only one?
41 "John C. White III" [jcw30Re: The low-down on tops
42 jgoldman@acs.bu.edu 76Some simple queries...
43 RICKCRIDER@aol.com 14LROA Membership?
44 James Kirkpatrick - INEN20101 FC Restoration?
45 cs@crl.com (Michael Carr32Re: For sale!
46 cs@crl.com (Michael Carr20Re: LROA Membership?


------------------------------ [ Message 1 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950921 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

From: Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk>
Subject: Number Plates,Old Type
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 95 12:22:35 BST

Someone in the US wanted addresses for the old style
English plates,white/alloy on black ground.
I've come across two suppliers in an old Classic&Sports
Car magazine.This is a 1992 issue,but chances are one
of the two firms still exists.

Premier Plates
23 Laurel Avenue
Ripley
Derbyshire
Tel 01773 747295
Fax 01773 742029

CHD Automotive
Unit 26
Riland Industrial Centre
Sutton Coldfield
West Midlands B75 7BB

Tel 0121 747 4570

Cheers
Mike Rooth

------------------------------
[ <- Message 2 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950921 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

Date: Wed, 20 Sep 1995 06:32:42 -0500 (CDT)
From: David John Place <umplace@cc.UManitoba.CA>

unsubscribe

------------------------------
[ <- Message 3 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950921 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

From: azw@aber.ac.uk (Andy Woodward)
Subject: Re: D90 Alum Hardtop for 96
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 1995 12:40:05 UNDEFINED

\the interior finishings, I am holding off on getting the fiberglas top to 
\see if the aluminium top would be possible. One big (read:expensive) part 
\will be the full rear door.

Anyone actually tried fitting a Series 3 rear tailgate and lift flap assembly 
to a 90 instead of teh rear door?

------------------------------
[ <- Message 4 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950921 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

From: azw@aber.ac.uk (Andy Woodward)
Subject: Come-a-long question
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 1995 12:46:42 UNDEFINED

\They also have a 8000# come-a-long with a 12' cable for $28.99,
\complimenting snatch block for $23.99.  Now, 12' of pull isn't a lot, but
\the real question is, is it enough?  The electric winches in the catalog
\(superwinch and ramsey) at $400 - $500 are nice, but that's a heck of a lot
\more scratch.  So could someone more experienced at getting stuck venture a
\guess as to what percentage of the stuck cases a come-a-long would get you
\out relative to an electric winch?  Is it half as useful?  Thanks.

 high lift jack will get you out of anything for 50quid. Add a couple of 
comealongs at 15 quid each........

Alternatively a simple length of 14mm polypropylene rope (bought from a 
chandler for 10 quid or so) along with the knowledge to make on of the various 
bush-winches with a bit of wood..........

Electric winches are for the rich.

------------------------------
[ <- Message 5 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950921 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

From: azw@aber.ac.uk (Andy Woodward)
Subject: Re: Which Gasket Sealant?
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 1995 12:59:11 UNDEFINED

>I've used the Permatex brand 'Blue' and 'Copper' versions....both of which
>are the rubbery silicone caulk type sealers.    Used all at various times on
>my Alfas with decent success.   I only want to do this once,  (at least for a
>long while).
>What are some of you LRO tech types finding the most success with?
\
\I just replaced...1,000 miles ago...the sump, head, and valve cover gaskets
\without a sealant of any kind. I coated gasket surfaces with oil prior to
\installation except for the head gasket which is "self sealing." No leaks
\of any kind yet.

For what it's wrth, my view n gasket sealants is I dnt use em. The gasket at 
the crrect trque should seal just fine. If it doesnt, summat's wrng. All 
gasket sealant does is make it a right bugger to get the gasket ff next time.

------------------------------
[ <- Message 6 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950921 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

From: Easton Trevor <TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA>
Subject: Timing
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 95 08:43:00 DST

I recall many years ago a chapter in the British Racing Drivers Club Silver 
Jubilee Book that explained how to find the optimum timing for your vehicle. 
The procedure was as follows.
1 Locate an incline up which you can drive at 30 mph in top gear.
2 choose two marks on the incline about 1/4 mile apart.
3. Drive past the first mark at 30 mph and floor the accelerator 
simultaneous starting a stop watch.
4. Stop the watch at the second mark.
5. Advance the timing one click and repeat steps 3 and 4.
6.If the time improves (gets shorter) then advance the timing some more and 
repeat.

(Of course, if your second try is slower than the first reverse the 
direction of adjustment and retard the timing until a maximum is reached.)

 When the time decreases then go back one click ,from the direction you were 
adjusting,  to the optimum.

I don't know how well this will work when you can't buy high octane leaded 
fuel anymore and pinking may limit the amount of advance before the maximum 
speed is reached. But it is worth a try especially if you dont have a timing 
mark. I keep meaning to go out and try this myself but haven't got a round 
tuit yet.

Trevor Easton, Grimsby Ontario, 1962 SWB SIIA

------------------------------
[ <- Message 7 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950921 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

From: Easton Trevor <TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA>
Subject: LROA Alumin(i)um Workhorse
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 95 09:01:00 DST

What is the current address for membership of LROA?

Trevor Easton

------------------------------
[ <- Message 8 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950921 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

Date: 20 Sep 95 08:59:27 EDT
From: "R. Pierce Reid" <PREID@csi.compuserve.com>
Subject: Land-Rover for sale

This was posted on the Internet, for anyone interested:

The vehicle is a 1965 Land-Rover Series IIa hard top. It has the Rover 2
1/4 Petrol engine, 4 spd. gearbox with 2 spd. transfer case. It has the
Kodiak high output heater snd 15" tires and wheels. I refinished the
vehicle in the oirginal Lt. Green & Limestone while I owned it. The
present owner is a career Navy man who purchased it from me approx. 2
years ago. He is only asking $7000.00 which is less then he paid for it.
The vehicle is in Virginia;  R. A. Salazar, Box 32920 River Road
Harpers Ferry, WV 25425.  A friend of his is helping him to sell it, GEORGE RAY,
INTERNET:george.ray@nccbbs.com

Sounds like a decent deal.  

Cheers, 

R. P. Reid

------------------------------
[ <- Message 9 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950921 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

From: Easton Trevor <TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA>
Subject: Bullet proof tyres
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 95 09:32:00 DST

Regarding the Avon tyres and the bullet proofness of tyres in general. In 
the early 70s I had a project that required the determination of the effects 
of a burst air spring on railway trucks (Like the highway truck airides but 
bigger). To experiment on ways to cause the rupture old tyres were used 
because they were a lot cheaper to destroy. Various projectiles were fired 
at the tyres and the only thing that could penetrate them was a sharp 
flechette fired by an air blast at close range and perpendicular. The method 
of choice in the end was to use an explosive charge taped to the air spring. 

Based on the above I believe that, despite what we see in the movies,  the 
lightlyhood of any tyre being punctured by gunfire, except at close range or 
large calibre, is remote especially in the heavier duty ratings that off 
road vehicles use.  So we can all drive secure in the knowledge that we 
won't be disabled by some bozo shooting at our tyres. Just be careful if he 
gets frustrated and raises his line of sight.

Trevor Easton,  Grimsby, Ontario

------------------------------
[ <- Message 10 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950921 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

From: SM2592@TAMUG3.TAMU.EDU
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 1995 8:48:52 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: RE: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

All,

	I live in Galveston, Texas and I'm currently performing a
frame up restoration on my '66 SER.IIA, safari.  I love the work, and
I love my Rover; but I think I may be the only series IIA owner
in the entire great state of Texas.... 

	If anyone knows anyone in Texas who also owns a Series Rover,
please let me know.  
						Rusty Smith

------------------------------
[ <- Message 11 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950921 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

From: SM2592@TAMUG3.TAMU.EDU
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 1995 8:54:04 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Rovers in Texas

All,

	I live in Texas and I'm currently performing a frame-up
restoration on my '66 Ser. IIA 109", Safari.  I love the work,
and I can relate so well to the stories I read on this digest.
However, I suspect I may be the only Ser. Rover owner in the great 
state of Texas....

	If anyone knows anyone who also owns a ser. rover in Texas,
will you please let me know.

						Rusty Smith
						Galveston, Tx
						409-744-4427

------------------------------
[ <- Message 12 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950921 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

Date: Wed, 20 Sep 1995 08:04:50 -0700
From: jhong@haiku.com (John Hong)
Subject: typo in - land of falling coconuts...

OOOPS!

my po box is 2120  NOT 2122!

>I am moving back to Hawaii!  I'd appreciate hearing from any other Hawaiian 
>rover owners.  (808 593-3782 email stays the same - jhong@haiku.com)
>If y'awl want to trade postcards - send me one at POB 2122, Honolulu, HI, 
>96805 and I'll send one back

aloha!

John

John Hong      Haiku Systems    Notes Business Partner
Consultant    jhong@haiku.com      408-249-8340

------------------------------
[ <- Message 13 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950921 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

Date: Wed, 20 Sep 1995 08:05:58 -0700 (PDT)
From: Michael Slade <slade@teleport.com>
Subject: Re: Waving

In regards to waving, I myself was caught up in the 'return the greeting' 
arm wave and was driving home from work in Utah and passed a SI pickup on 
an overpass.  I was waving wildly at the driver, and I think he thought I 
was creazy.  It took him a minute to figure out what I was doing, but he 
did manage to give a wave back.

Since then I've sold my SIIA '88 (ouch) and gotten my wife a 
Volvo wagon.  Well, I have seen several Discos, RR's, and a couple of 
series vehicles, but somehow don't have the courage to wave as I once did 
in my '88.

Russ, is there a cure for this?  Can I get my enthusiasm to wave back?  
My raving for Rovers has not subsided (just ask my wife), but somehow I 
feel 'out' of the club now.  

Yes, a series rover is in my future (don't ask), and my loalty will never 
die.

Just a depressed roverless babbler,

Michael

slade@teleport.COM  Public Access User -- Not affiliated with 
Teleport
Public Access UNIX and Internet at (503) 220-1016 (2400-28800, N81)

------------------------------
[ <- Message 14 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950921 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

Date: 19 Sep 95 13:43:27 EDT
From: Paul.Smail@Washcoll.EDU (Paul Smail)
Subject: Mid-Atlantic Rover Rally

Where, exactly, (or even approximately) is the Mid-Atlantic Rover Rally being
held?

I'd very much like to attend if only to check out the various Rovers in their
element.

Thanks very much,

Paul Smail
Chestertown, Md

------------------------------
[ <- Message 15 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950921 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

From: Harincar@mooregs.com (Tim Harincar)
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 1995 11:35:20 -0700
Subject: Time for a brake job...

Hi List

The recent discussions of how many times one needs to pump their brakes
has got me thinking about the brakes on my '66 IIa 88 as well. 

Mine need one pump before I get real stopping power, and if I have to stand 
on them, like when a moron decides to pull out in front of me, I get a nasty 
pull to the right.

I'm convinced that my hub seals are bad, there is grease leaking to the 
insides of my wheels, so that I'm sure is contributing. 

Questions: How do I tell if the brake lines need to be replaced? RN has them 
on special, so now seems to be a good time to get those if needed.

I've never worked on brakes before, except in the past to change out a master 
cylinder (on another car). I don't know what bad springs, drums, etc look 
like. Should I buy parts and have a shop work on it (if the cost is not 
outragious)? I mean, I can handle it if my own repairs leave me stranded 
someplace, but brakes are pretty critical - I'd hate for something nasty to 
happen because I  made a mistake. 

Unfortunatly, I don't know any other Series owners in town, so I don't have 
anyone who knows what they are doing assist while I learn.

The Land Rover dealer here won't touch it. Wimps. Flatly refused it when I 
called for an estimate. And I don't know of any other shops that have worked 
on Rovers before (its great to have a unique vehicle - sometimes...).

Any info greatly appreciated.

Tim
---
tim harincar                            Moore Graphics Services
harincar@mooregs.com         Minneapolis, MN
'66 IIa 88 SW

------------------------------
[ <- Message 16 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950921 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

From: mvdscape@iafrica.com
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 1995 18:46:48 +0000
Subject: Overdrive Gearbox

Hallo Rovers,

A local Land Rover dealer advised me to use a special oil in my 
overdrive gearbox namely "ALMASOL".  This is a reddish oil looking 
very similar to automatic transmission oil.  ( By the way.. I have a 
SIIA).
What bogs me down is the cost of Almasol at approx. 14 times the price of 
standard gearbox oil.  Is this the only oil to use in a O/D box or is 
standard g/box oil good enough???
 
Any comments or advice would be appreciated!

Thanks !

Marius van der Spuy   (Cape Town, South Africa)

Replies to - mvdscape@iafrica.com

------------------------------
[ <- Message 17 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950921 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

Subject: re: Aluminum top for '94 D90
From: skidmore@mail02.mitre.org (William E. Skidmore)
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 95 12:59:29 -0400

There's been a lot of talk about modifying the exterior cage to be able to fit 
the new/old aluminum top to a '94 D90, but no one has thought of this 
approach:

Identify the additional parts that would be needed to extend the existing 
external cage on the D90 to the rear of the vehicle, using components from the 
NAS D110 as a source.  

Although not all of those parts would be needed (different wheelbases and 
all), the vertical supports could be used, and doubtless, some of the 
horizontal spans as well.  It seems that this would be both a safer design and 
aesthetically more pleasing then modifying the external and internal cages, 
and would eliminate the need for the internal cage entirely.  It would also 
provide a solid base for a decent roof rack!

Bill Skidmore

------------------------------
[ <- Message 18 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950921 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date: 20 Sep 95 10:15:28 EDT
Subject: Re: Number Plates,Old Type

it was me, Mike. THanks! -ajr

------------------------------
[ <- Message 19 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950921 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

Subject: Handy Compressor
From: skidmore@mail02.mitre.org (William E. Skidmore)
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 95 13:09:31 -0400

Just a short one:

Seen a chevy pickup the other day coming off the beach, and the guy went about 
reinflating his tires.  Normal thing, right?  Wrong.

The inflation hose extended from his grill.  I thought that he had taken a 
Coleman compressor or something similar and simply extend the hose through the 
grill.  WRONG!

He had gone to the junk yard, and found an air conditioner compressor, hooked 
it to the block by maching brackets, and ran a belt to it off the pully.  Ran 
the power to a switch on the dash, ran the compressed air line through several 
lube and moisture bowls, and out through the grill.  Claimed to get over 
100psi from it!

Any thoughts on doing this the Rovers?

Bill Skidmore

------------------------------
[ <- Message 20 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950921 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date: 20 Sep 95 13:14:17 EDT
Subject: Tutorial: On spray-painting a Land Rover frugally.

Well, as there was some interest in my painting saga a while ago, I decided to
write it up for the edification and amusement of all and sundry. If anyone sees
any glaring (or not so glaring) errors, please bring them to my attention so I 
can fix them.
We don't want to confuse some poor sod who actually tries to DO this...

This is also being published in the OVLR newsletter, as someone needs to prove 
to these
poor souls that you don't have to paint a Rover with a paint roller - even if 
you CAN.
{This per Dixon Kenner, who swears it's been done...}

Spray-painting your Land Rover on a buget without a compressor - by Al Richer

After asking endless stupid questions I finally worked up the nerve to take a 
spray gun
to my old compatriot Churchill (a 109 pickup). Not being over-endowed with 
money and with
the local shops charging 600-1K American for a paint job, I decided to attack 
the problem myself.

Warning: This is NOT a job for the faint of heart. These are NASTY chemicals 
which can wreak
some serious hell on your biochemistry if you get too intimate with them. At a 
minimum, consider
a good dual-cartridge respirator and safety glasses a cost of the job - you'll 
thank me.

A word on materials:

The paints and such I used are not considered top of the line, but I saw as the 
easiest and most
cost-effective way to get a good-looking Rover for a good price. What I ended 
up using was the
Delstar line of paints sold by PPG - Ditzler, I believe, on the other side of 
the pond. This is a multipart
acrylic enamel paint formulation that is tolerant of mistakes in mixing and 
such.

The paint was a 3-part system, requiring the paint itself, reducer dependent on 
the temperature you'll
be spraying in, and hardener for best gloss and abrasion resistance. You don't 
absolutely need the
hardener, but to my mind it makes a world of difference in the paint's flow 
characteristics and gloss.

Under this, I applied a one-part etching metal primer to the bare aluminum 
spots, and
PPGs DZL 34 lacquer primer over the etching primer and the old paint. If you 
strip to bare metal, you 
will need to use the etching metal primer everywhere. If your old paint is 
still good, you
really don't need to do this.

I ended up buying 6 quarts of finish color and a gallon of primer, as well as 2 
quarts of the
etching metal primer. With this I ended up using 2 gallons of lacquer thinner 
(to thin the 
primer and for cleanup) and a gallon of 70-85F reducer for the finish color. 
Add a quart of hardener
to your shopping list, and you're ready to go. You won't use all of it, but it 
keeps for years in tightly
sealed cans (except for the hardener, which must be discarded).

This was not $1.98. I believe the whole mess ended up costing me in the 
neighborhood
of $200. If you can still get lacquer paints (I am told that they are now 
banned in the US
because of VOC restrictions by the EPA) this can be done considerably cheaper, 
as the
multipart chemistries are pricey, but much more durable.

Tools Required:

For this job, I ended up buying a Wagner FineCoat HVLP spray rig from Damark 
for $119.00. 
It was a factory-reconditioned unit which looked new when I took it out of the 
box. I figured that
I could resell it with little loss, as new they're in the $200 range. However, 
nobody's getting it
out of my hands now <grin>. Seriously, if you do any shop work at all the 
blower itself is handy
for cleaning and the sprayer does a good job with non-latex (light-bodied) 
paints.

The rest of the tools I used were part of my standard compliment of shop toys. 
Most of these
can be rented our bought used cheaply.

Power sander (A must, unless you LIKE carpal tunnel syndrome)
Sandpaper, grits from 120 to 400 (I used 120, 220 and 400)
Large numbers of disposable lint-free rags (sheets from Goodwill and a 
cooperative 10-year old with
scissors and a talent for destruction)
A hand sanding block for small areas the sander won't penetrate
Dual-cartridge respirator with organic solvent cartridges (the shop that sells 
you the paint can help)
Safety Glasses (A MUST, AND USE THEM!)
A relatively dust-free area to work in (inside if possible, outside under a 
tarp to act as a windbreak)
Lot of old newspapers
2 or 3 rolls of quality masking tape - splurge and buy the blue stuff at the 
paint store
Patience and a realistic attitude, and a VERY understanding spouse

Optional:
Auto Body dolly set with hammers (I bought my cheap ones for $10 in a flea 
market new)
Wire brush on an electric drill (for rust removal)
Drum sander on above drill (for SERIOUS rust removal - grinds metal nicely)
Propane torch and aluminum solder for aluminum crack repair

Beginning to paint: Surface inspection and preparation

Before I lifted the first tool to the body of my car, I spent the better part
of an hour carefully inspecting all of the surfaces I wanted to recoat, 
determining
what needed doing and where.

Some areas were fine, with only weathering damage to the paint. Others were not 
so good, showing dents, corrosion, torn aluminum, rust on steel parts and 
completely
washed-away paint under the Diesel filler neck. The floor of the cargo bed was 
a disaster requiring
scraping and removal of all the galvanized strips because of thirty years 
accumulation of
minerals and crud. These got painted separately, as the galvanizing was 
completely gone.

Each one of these areas needs to be treated differently. The weathered areas I 
simply
finish-sanded at 220 grit to get the new primer to adhere. Badly damaged paint 
I stripped
completely with 120 grit sandpaper in the power sander, or spray-on paint 
stripper for the
really tough or curved bits the sander couldn't handle. 

The body damage was another matter over and above the finish. The torn aluminum 
I ended
up soldering closed with low-temp aluminum solder and a propane torch, then 
sanding and
spot-puttying to level the damaged area. The rusty metal was treated much the 
same, grinding
out the rust with a drum sander on a drill, rust inhibiting, then puttying the 
pits. Most of this type
of damage showed up on the leading edges (the breakfast and front wings)

The little dings and dents I pretty much left alone - a Land-Rover with perfect 
bodywork would 
look awfully silly....

All of this bodywork took my spare time over a day or four - doing repairs and 
such. I didn't sand
the body sections until I was ready to spray - fresh sanded areas take paint 
better.

Spray Gunning - A manual of arms

If you've never used a spray gun before, your Rover is NOT the place to start. 
Before you start
spraying the aluminum beast, buy a quart or two of Rustoleum and repaint your 
patio furniture,
 your cat's litter box or anything but your car.

Seriously, getting some inexpensive paint and painting other items is a good 
way to get the basic
technique down before you do it for real on your car. Even just spraying sheets 
of cardboard or
hardboard from appliance cartons is a good way to get the basics down. Make all 
your mistakes
on something you're not going to regret for years. 

The best advice I have is to go to the local library and locate an Audels 
manual or any reference
on spray painting. it isn't hard to do, but a little forewarning about it can 
make a world of difference
in the quality of the final job.

If you use the same device I did, it only has one adjustment, and that's for 
paint volume sprayed. It's
very easy to adjust, as all you have to do is test-spray until you get a volume 
that is comfortable
to your movement style. As a piece of advice, turn it all the way off, then 
increase it a quarter-or-half
turn until you're happy with it. The manual with the gun set can give you other 
suggestions.

The basics are:

Always start and end your passes OFF the surface at both ends, This eliminates 
blotching where
you begin and end.

Hold the spraygun a constant distance from the work. This gives even paint 
distribution.

Spray a good wet coat, but don't overdo - it will run on vertical surfaces. 
Remember, you'll be putting on
multiple coats - so the first coat doesn't have to cover it all.

If you blow it, you can always resand and do it again. This ain't life or death 
- relax.

Alas, unto the breach, dear friends - let's get to work.

Finally - he's actually going to talk about painting the car!

The approach I took was to do one part of the vehicle at a time, working within 
my own limitations.
With me, this meant shooting a fender and the breakfast, or a door and a fender 
or some similar
area at a time. I find this to be the easiest approach, as trying to do the 
whole car at once will quickly
drive you scatty.

First of all, remove and paint any items you can off the car. For me this was 
the bonnet, the wings,
the doors, roof and other bolt-on bits like the tailgate. As I had very little 
interior space, adopting
this tactic let me paint in a clean environment for much of the vehicle, saving 
the outside work for as
little of the car as possible.

I began by prepping the surfaces I was going to work with. For most of the car, 
this took the form of 
sanding with 120-grit emery to remove damaged paint and smooth good painted 
areas, then resanding
with 220 after washing the area to remove dust. Another wash came after the 
220, then a quick wipe
with a paint-thinner dampened rag to knock out the last traces of dust.

Before actually spraying paint, use the masking tape and newspapers to mask off 
any adjacent areas
or other colors to prevent contamination by overspray. The HVLP gun doesn't 
blow much overspray, 
but there is some and better safe than sorry is the watchword here. I removed 
lights, mirrors, headlight
rims and other small parts for cleaning and repainting, you can do this also or 
simply mask as necessary.

I then sprayed the bare metal areas with etching primer, following the dilution 
instructions on the can. Once
this was dry, I sprayed the area with 3 coats of primer, then power-sanded the 
top coat with 400-grit paper.
Another wash-down to remove dust then a dry cloth wipe, and I spray on 3 coats 
of thinned color paint, following
the manufacturer's directions as to mixing of the paint with reducer and 
hardner.

After painting was completed (give it a half-hour or so to let the paint 
surface harden) remove the making tape on
the adjacent areas to avoid it ruining your paint job by peeling up the surface 
coat.

I was averaging about 4 hours per section, counting sanding, priming and 
painting. Masking of areas not to be
painted was an extra half hour or so.  

Conclusion:

There is no cheap and cheerful way to get a good paint job on a Rover. Brush 
painting works and works
quite well, but is very laborious and not inexpensive in materials cost. The 
Wagner method, while requiring
a bit of machinery purchase, has the advantage of giving a clean level paint 
coat in less time than brush
methods, and with a similar materials cost. 

------------------------------
[ <- Message 21 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950921 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

From: "John Benner" <benner@klamath.esa.lanl.gov>
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 1995 11:35:40 -0600
Subject: I Need a Land Rover

Hello,

I'm looking for a SIIA or SIII hard top (either 88 or 109) for use
as both a restoration project and a serious weekend expedition vehicle
, it's gotta be in good running order running and the body needs to be in good
shape (I don't car much about the paint).

I am having no luck finding anything decent locally (New Mexico, USA). In fact,
I found one that had been painted gold metallic...yuck! Well maybe I do
care a bit about the paint...

Can anyone help? I'm willing to fly-out and drive one back a reasonable
distance.

Thanks,

John Benner
benner@lanl.gov

------------------------------
[ <- Message 22 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950921 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

From: Easton Trevor <TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA>
Subject: Engine Oils
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 95 13:55:00 DST

Forwarded from the Swedish Brick. No excuse not to use the right stuff now!
 ----------
From: hazard
Date: Monday, September 18, 1995 11:20AM

More Than You Ever Wanted to Know About Motor Oil
By Ed Hackett (edh@maxey.unr.edu)

 
 ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 
 ---
 -
Edits:

     v1.0 First there was 1.0. Before that there was darkness.
     v1.1 Change in description of viscosity.
     v1.2 Updated info on AMSOIL (courtesy of Morgan McArthur )

Choosing the best motor oil is a topic that comes up frequently in 
discussions
between motoheads, whether they are talking about motorcycles or cars. The
following article is intended to help you make a choice based on more than 
the
advertising hype.

Oil companies provide data on their oils most often referred to as "typical
inspection data". This is an average of the actual physical and a few common
chemical properties of their oils. This information is available to the 
public
through their distributors or by writing or calling the company directly. I
have compiled a list of the most popular, premium oils so that a ready
comparison can be made. If your favorite oil is not on the list get the data
from the distributor and use what I have as a data base.

This article is going to look at six of the most important properties of a
motor oil readily available to the public: viscosity, viscosity index (VI),
flash point, pour point, % sulfated ash, and % zinc.

Viscosity is a measure of the "flowability" of an oil. More specifically, it
is the property of an oil to develop and maintain a certain amount of 
shearing
stress dependent on flow, and then to offer continued resistance to flow.
Thicker oils generally have a higher viscosity, and thinner oils a lower
viscosity. This is the most important property for an engine. An oil with 
too
low a viscosity can shear and loose film strength at high temperatures. An 
oil
with too high a viscosity may not pump to the proper parts at low 
temperatures
and the film may tear at high rpm.

The weights given on oils are arbitrary numbers assigned by the S.A.E.
(Society of Automotive Engineers). These numbers correspond to "real" 
viscosity, as
measured by several accepted techniques. These measurements are taken at
specific temperatures. Oils that fall into a certain range are designated 5,
10, 20, 30, 40, 50 by the S.A.E. The W means the oil meets specifications 
for
viscosity at 0 F and is therefore suitable for Winter use.

The following chart shows the relationship of "real" viscosity to their 
S.A.E.
assigned numbers. The relationship of gear oils to engine oils is also 
shown.

_______________________________________________________________
|      SAE Gear Viscosity Number                              |
|  ________________________________________________________   |
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)]
|  ____________________________                               |
|  |10| 20      | 30    | 40     |  50       | 
                              |
|  |__|_____|____|_____|______|                               |
______________________________________________________________
2  4  6  8  10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 26 28 30 32 34 36 38 40 42
                 viscosity cSt @ 100 degrees C

Multi viscosity oils work like this: Polymers are added to a light base (5W,
10W, 20W), which prevent the oil from thinning as much as it warms up. At 
cold
temperatures the polymers are coiled up and allow the oil to flow as their 
low
numbers indicate. As the oil warms up the polymers begin to unwind into long
chains that prevent the oil from thinning as much as it normally would. The
result is that at 100 degrees C the oil has thinned only as much as the 
higher
viscosity number indicates. Another way of looking at multi-vis oils is to
think of a 20W-50 as a 20 weight oil that will not thin more than a 50 
weight
would when hot.

Multi viscosity oils are one of the great improvements in oils, but they
should be chosen wisely. Always use a multi grade with the narrowest span of
viscosity that is appropriate for the temperatures you are going to 
encounter. In the
winter base your decision on the lowest temperature you will encounter, in 
the
summer, the highest temperature you expect. The polymers can shear and burn
forming deposits that can cause ring sticking and other problems. 10W-40 and
5W-30 require a lot of polymers (synthetics excluded) to achieve that range.
This has caused problems in diesel engines, but fewer polymers are better 
for
all engines. The wide viscosity range oils, in general, are more prone to
viscosity and thermal breakdown due to the high polymer content. It is the 
oil
that lubricates, not the additives. Oils that can do their job with the 
fewest
additives are the best.

Very few manufactures recommend 10W-40 any more, and some threaten to void
warranties if it is used. It was not included in this article for that 
reason.
20W-50 is the same 30 point spread, but because it starts with a heavier 
base
it requires less viscosity index improvers (polymers) to do the job. AMSOIL
can formulate their 10W-30 and 15W-40 with no viscosity index improvers but 
uses
some in the 10W-40 and 5W-30. Mobil 1 uses no viscosity improvers in their
5W-30, and I assume the new 10W-30. Follow your manufacturer's 
recommendations
as to which weights are appropriate for your vehicle.

Viscosity Index is an empirical number indicating the rate of change in
viscosity of an oil within a given temperature range. Higher numbers 
indicate
a low change, lower numbers indicate a relatively large change. The higher 
the
number the better. This is one major property of an oil that keeps your
bearings happy. These numbers can only be compared within a viscosity range.
It is not an indication of how well the oil resists thermal breakdown.

Flash point is the temperature at which an oil gives off vapors that can be
ignited with a flame held over the oil. The lower the flash point the 
greater
tendency for the oil to suffer vaporization loss at high temperatures and to
burn off on hot cylinder walls and pistons. The flash point can be an
indicator of the quality of the base stock used. The higher the flash point 
the better.
400 F is the minimum to prevent possible high consumption. Flash point is in
degrees F.

Pour point is 5 degrees F above the point at which a chilled oil shows no
movement at the surface for 5 seconds when inclined. This measurement is
especially important for oils used in the winter. A borderline pumping
temperature is given by some manufacturers. This is the temperature at which
the oil will pump and maintain adequate oil pressure. This was not given by 
a
lot of the manufacturers, but seems to be about 20 degrees F above the pour
point. The lower the pour point the better. Pour point is in degrees F.

% sulfated ash is how much solid material is left when the oil burns. A high
ash content will tend to form more sludge and deposits in the engine. Low 
ash
content also seems to promote long valve life. Look for oils with a low ash
content.

% zinc is the amount of zinc used as an extreme pressure, anti- wear 
additive.
The zinc is only used when there is actual metal to metal contact in the
engine. Hopefully the oil will do its job and this will rarely occur, but if
it
does, the zinc compounds react with the metal to prevent scuffing and wear. 
A
level of .11% is enough to protect an automobile engine for the extended oil
drain interval, under normal use. Those of you with high revving, air cooled
motorcycles or turbo charged cars or bikes might want to look at the oils 
with
the higher zinc content. More doesn't give you better protection, it gives 
you
longer protection if the rate of metal to metal contact is abnormally high.
High zinc content can lead to deposit formation and plug fouling.

The Data:
Listed alphabetically --- indicates the data was not available

Brand                   VI    Flash    Pour    %ash   %zinc

20W-50
AMSOIL (old)           136     482     -38     <.5     ---
AMSOIL (new)           157     507     -44     ---     ---
Castrol GTX            122     440     -15     .85     .12
Exxon High Performance 119     419     -13     .70     .11
Havoline Formula 3     125     465     -30     1.0     ---
Kendall GT-1           129     390     -25     1.0     .16
Pennzoil GT Perf.      120     460     -10     .9      ---
Quaker State Dlx.      155     430     -25     .9      ---
Red Line               150     503     -49     ---     ---
Shell Truck Guard      130     450     -15     1.0     .15
Spectro Golden 4       174     440     -35     ---     .15
Spectro Golden M.G.    174     440     -35     ---     .13
Unocal                 121     432     -11     .74     .12
Valvoline All Climate  125     430     -10     1.0     .11
Valvoline Turbo        140     440     -10     .99     .13
Valvoline Race         140     425     -10     1.2     .20
Valvoline Synthetic    146     465     -40    <1.5     .12

20W-40
AMSOIL                 124     50      -49     ---     ---
Castrol Multi-Grade    110     440     -15     .85     .12
Quaker State           121     415     -15     .9      ---

15W-50
Chevron                204      415     -18     .96     .11
Mobil 1                170      470     -55     ---     ---
Mystic JT8             144      420     -20     1.7     .15
Red Line               152      503     -49     ---     ---

5W-50
Castrol Syntec         180      437     -45     1.2     .10
Quaker State Synquest  173      457     -76     ---     ---
Pennzoil Performax     176      ---     -69     ---     ---

5W-40
Havoline               170      450     -40     1.4     ---

15W-40
AMSOIL (old)           135      460     -38     <.5     ---
AMSOIL (new)           164      462     -49     ---     ---
Castrol                134      415     -15     1.3     .14
Chevron Delo 400       136      421     -27     1.0     ---
Exxon XD3              ---      417     -11     .9      .14
Exxon XD3 Extra        135      399     -11     .95     .13
Kendall GT-1           135      410     -25     1.0     .16
Mystic JT8             142      440     -20     1.7     .15
Red Line               149      495     -40     ---     ---
Shell Rotella w/XLA    146      410     -25     1.0     .13
Valvoline All Fleet    140      ---     -10     1.0     .15
Valvoline Turbo        140      420     -10     .99     .13

10W-30
AMSOIL (old)           142      480     -70     <.5     ---
AMSOIL (new)           162      520     -76     ---     ---
Castrol GTX            140      415     -33     .85     .12
Chevron Supreme        150      401     -26     .96     .11
Exxon Superflo Hi Perf 135      392     -22     .70     .11
Exxon Superflo Supreme 133      400     -31     .85     .13
Havoline Formula 3     139      430     -30     1.0     ---
Kendall GT-1           139      390     -25     1.0     .16
Mobil 1                160      450     -65     ---     ---
Pennzoil PLZ Turbo     140      410     -27     1.0     ---
Quaker State           156      410     -30     .9      ---
Red Line               139      475     -40     ---     ---
Shell Fire and Ice     155      410     -35     .9      .12
Shell Super 2000       155      410     -35     1.0     .13
Shell Truck Guard      155      405     -35     1.0     .15
Spectro Golden M.G.    175      405     -40     ---     ---
Unocal Super           153      428     -33     .92     .12
Valvoline All Climate  130      410     -26     1.0     .11
Valvoline Turbo        135      410     -26     .99     .13
Valvoline Race         130      410     -26     1.2     .20
Valvoline Synthetic    140      450     -40    <1.5     .12

5W-30
AMSOIL (old)           168      480     -76     <.5     ---
AMSOIL (new)           186      464     -76     ---     ---
Castrol GTX            156      400     -35     .80     .12
Chevron Supreme        202?     354     -46     .96     .11
Chevron Supreme Synt.  165      446     -72     1.1     .12
Exxon Superflow HP     148      392     -22     .70     .11
Havoline Formula 3     158      420     -40     1.0     ---
Mobil 1                165      445     -65     ---     ---
Mystic JT8             161      390     -25     .95     .1
Quaker State           165      405     -35     .9      ---
Red Line               151      455     -49     ---     ---
Shell Fire and Ice     167      405     -35     .9      .12
Unocal                 151      414     -33     .81     .12
Valvoline All Climate  135      405     -40     1.0     .11
Valvoline Turbo        158      405     -40     .99     .13
Valvoline Synthetic    160      435     -40    <1.5     .12

All of the oils above meet current SG/CD ratings and all vehicle 
manufacture's
warranty requirements in the proper viscosity. All are "good enough", but
those
with the better numbers are icing on the cake.

The synthetics offer the only truly significant differences, due to their
superior high temperature oxidation resistance, high film strength, very low
tendency to form deposits, stable viscosity base, and low temperature flow
characteristics. Synthetics are superior lubricants compared to traditional
petroleum oils. You will have to decide if their high cost is justified in
your
application.

The extended oil drain intervals given by the vehicle manufacturers 
(typically
7500 miles) and synthetic oil companies (up to 25,000 miles) are for what is
called normal service. Normal service is defined as the engine at normal
operating temperature, at highway speeds, and in a dust free environment. 
Stop
and go, city driving, trips of less than 10 miles, or extreme heat or cold
puts
the oil change interval into the severe service category, which is 3000 
miles
for most vehicles. Synthetics can be run two to three times the mileage of
petroleum oils with no problems. They do not react to combustion and
combustion
by-products to the extent that the dead dinosaur juice does. The longer 
drain
intervals possible help take the bite out of the higher cost of the
synthetics.
If your car or bike is still under warranty you will have to stick to the
recommended drain intervals. These are set for petroleum oils and the
manufacturers make no official allowance for the use of synthetics.

Oil additives should not be used. The oil companies have gone to great 
lengths
to develop an additive package that meets the vehicle's requirements. Some 
of
these additives are synergistic, that is the effect of two additives 
together
is greater than the effect of each acting separately. If you add anything to
the oil you may upset this balance and prevent the oil from performing to
specification.

The numbers above are not, by any means, all there is to determining what
makes
a top quality oil. The exact base stock used, the type, quality, and 
quantity
of additives used are very important. The given data combined with the
manufacturer's claims, your personal experience, and the reputation of the 
oil
among others who use it should help you make an informed choice.

 
 ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 
 ---
 -
Last modified: Tue Jul 26 14:01:32 1994

------------------------------
[ <- Message 23 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950921 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

Date: Wed, 20 Sep 95 11:09:56 -0700
From: "TeriAnn Wakeman"  <twakeman@apple.com>
Subject: Re: I Need a Land Rover

In message <199509201738.MAA09379@butler.uk.stratus.com> "John Benner" writes:

 
> I'm looking for a SIIA or SIII hard top (either 88 or 109) for use
; as both a restoration project and a serious weekend expedition vehicle
> , it's gotta be in good running order running and the body needs to be in 
> good
; shape (I don't car much about the paint).
>; I am having no luck finding anything decent locally (New Mexico, USA). In 
> fact,

; I found one that had been painted gold metallic...yuck! Well maybe I do
> care a bit about the paint...
> fact,
; Can anyone help? I'm willing to fly-out and drive one back a reasonable
> distance.
> fact,
; Thanks,
> John Benner
> benner@lanl.gov

So John, you say you are looking for a 88 or 109 hardtop.  I just happen to have
a 109 hard top for sale.

Its a full tropical top with the roof vents, ovel window and sun shield.  The 
sides have two windows each.  It is Limestone white.  Looks OK could use some 
fresh paint.  The front domes over the front vents are creased where a DPO 
(Dreaded Previous Owner) ran it aground on a low overhang.  

It would be an easy restoration project.

I'm asking US$700 for the full top and the window sides (the sides are a lot 
harder to find than the top).

;*)

TeriAnn Wakeman           FOR SALE:  1968 MGBGT. British racing green with
twakeman@apple.com                    black interior. overdrive. recently
                          US$ 2500    rebuilt engine & brakes. very minor       
                                      surface rust at paint scratches   
              
                         
                       

------------------------------
[ <- Message 24 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950921 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 1995 14:17:24 -0400
Subject: Rollcages

I am looking to find a rollcage for my 88" for which I have both the hoop set
and canvas top and a hardtop.  I would prefer to not have to remove the
rollcage when switching between the two tops.  To add complexity, I would
also like to place the inward facing folding rear benchseats in the back.  I
have not found a suitable rollcage advertised although some Jeep Wranglers
have a rollcage similar to what I am seeking. 

A few months ago, someone was advertising a rollcage which I believe they
claimed replaced the hoop set and would still fit under the hardtop.  If this
exists, it would be exactly what I am seeking.

As always, any info would be appreciated.

Thanks
Nate Dunsmore
Rocking Horse Farm
Boring, MD USA 21020
(410)429-4964

------------------------------
[ <- Message 25 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950921 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

Date: Wed, 20 Sep 1995 11:24:39 -0700
From: gpool@pacific.pacific.net (Granville B. Pool)
Subject: Never lock only one?

Michael, 

You said:

>You should NEVER run with one hub locked and one unlocked.  

Why not?  The "shift-on-the-fly" set-ups such as my Dodge Dakota and many
others have uses a vacuum disconnect on only one front axle shaft, in lieu
of freewheeling hubs.  This makes the still connected shaft turn under a
no-load condition (provided you actually have a front differential and not a
spool).  This seems to be a quite workable compromise between the complete
disconnect provided by free-wheeling hubs and the convenience of cab-mounted
actuation.

Cheers,

Granville B. Pool, Redwood Valley, Alta California Norte, USA
Several old Land-Rovers and other semi-collectible vehicles
<gpool@pacific.pacific.net> (707)485-7220 Home; (707)463-4265 Work

------------------------------
[ <- Message 26 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950921 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

Date: Wed, 20 Sep 1995 14:26:30 -0400 (EDT)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.emr.ca>
Subject: Re: Aluminum Workhorse

On Tue, 19 Sep 1995, Roger Sinasohn wrote:

> Right now, the membership is heavily biased towards the west.  I don't know 
> the details, but this seems due partially to a bad reputation on the east 
> coast because of one person being less than honest.  (I've only heard this, 
> dunno anymore, don't care to.)  

	One person and the inactivity of a couple others.  You're right
	in general terms on the eastern view and rep.

> I've agreed to handle membership and treasurer for the time being.  So that's 
> out of the way.  But we still need to figure out where the club is going. 

	So you are hunting for a secretary and a president.  An opportunity
	for someone with some vision and some time.

------------------------------
[ <- Message 27 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950921 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

Date: Wed, 20 Sep 95 11:39:34 MST
From: DEBROWN@SRP.GOV
Subject: A few things I missed...

FROM:  David Brown                           Internet: debrown@srp.gov
       Computer Graphics Specialist * Mapping Services & Engr Graphics
       PAB219 (602)236-3544 -  Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486
SUBJECT: A few things I missed...
I can't really argue much with your reply. As I said, the LC is a very capable
rig, closest competitor to a LR.

Just a few comments...

>> The LR only came with 1.11" axle shafts with 10(!) splines (Rover type) or
>> 1.24" shafts with 24 splines (Salisbury type) compared to the Cruiser which
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
>> side comparison between a LC 70 series and a Defender 90 on the week-end and
>> it couldn't have had more than a 8" ring)

No doubt true... The weakest link in the drive train. But adequate for the
4-cyl powerplant they were designed for.

>> FWIW, the LR came with 4.7 R&P ratios compared to the LC's 4.11's.  I don't
>> know about the tranny/x-fer though.

>> One more thing (and this is based on complete speculation on my part) I
>> don't think the LR's tranny/x-fer is as stout as a Cruiser's (don't most 350
>> etc swaps require changing the above combo?  I could very well be wrong here

Agreed. Except in the case of the "stage one V8". Many V8 and V6's have
been slid into the LR but finesse is required while handling the extra HP.
Also, the IIa gearbox is stronger than the series III.

>> I have a question.  Why is it that everyone seems to have to replace their
>LR's frames with the new galvanized ones?  Is is just because of electrolysis?

The advantage of the LR, again, is the weight of the body, and the *body's*
non-rusting qualities. The frame, like *any* other rig can and will rust if
not taken care of. The difference, I believe, is that after 20 to 30 years
of use the LR can be "almost like new" with only a frame, whereas most others
will require a *lot* of body work as well. Again, only my opinion, but maybe
the reason you don't hear of other makes replacing the frame is because the
*whole rig* is rusted out and not worth salvaging.

>> As far as sidehill, isn't the LC a good couple of inches wider (offsetting
>> the LR's lesser above-centre-of-gravity weight?)  A Toy LC HZJ75 pickup (2"
>> wider track than a 40) will do a 39 degree sidehill according to factory
>> brochures.  I also have a German LC book, and if I'm reading it correctly,
>> the 40 is actually the same, despite its narrower track.

I've heard of people taking the Series I LR's on 47 degree side slopes, and
the tires slipping across the rock surface rather than rolling over, and
again, I've heard of a "published" side slope of around 45 degrees, but can't
verify that.

>> It's kind of sad though.  LR seems to be abandoning its one BIG advantage
>> over the LC--the aluminum body.  Aren't the roof, pillars, and doors on the
>> Disco steel?

True. No doubt under the pressures of the "safety people" and their
regulations.

As for quotes from other resources... Everyone has an opinion. And they do
have some good comments about dealer support and reputation for reliability.
as for the quote:

>> "Current YNissan" Patrols and YLand Cruiser" 80 series have longer
>> suspension travel than the Range Rover and, with the aid of optional
>> cross-axle diff locks, can actually out climb one in severe terrain."

I wonder how it compares to the Defender, and make note of the "with the aid
of optional cross-axle diff locks," and wonder what the "optional cross-axle
diff locks" would do for the RR or Defender.

On a related thread...

As for the poor misguided individual who actually wrote publicly that the
Trooper was better than the Defender as an offroad vehicle, I'll reserve
comment, so as not to embarrass them. Let's just hit the trails!

Dave (Rover) Brown

 #=====#         #========#          -------,___           _______
 |___|__\___     |___|__|__\___      |--' |  |  \_|_      / /__|__\___
 | _ |   |_ |}   | _ |  |   |_ |}    |  _ |--+--|_  |     \_/-\___/-\_|}
 "(_)""""(_)"    "(_)"""""""(_)"    ||_/_\___|__/_\_|}      ( )    ( )
                                       (_)      (_)
 1971 "88" IIa   1970 "109" IIa     1994 Discovery (Sold) '87 Range Rover
 LIC: LION B8    Historic plates     (Too hard to "draw")  $8500 bargain

#=======#                Never doubt that a small group of individuals
|__|__|__\___            can change the world... indeed, it's the only
| _|  |   |_ |}          thing that ever has.
"(_)""""""(_)"                                          -Margaret Mead

------------------------------
[ <- Message 28 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950921 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date:          Wed, 20 Sep 1995 08:41:05 GMT -0600
Subject:       Series brake booster.

Someone was wondering if the Austin booster was the same as the LR. I looked 
in my Lucas catalog and the numbers didn't match. If you'll give me the model 
and year of the Austin I'll double check. I wasn't sure of them. My 
replacements parts catalog covers years '65-'76.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------
[ <- Message 29 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950921 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date:          Wed, 20 Sep 1995 09:01:56 GMT -0600
Subject:       Re: Come-a-long question

> \more scratch.  So could someone more experienced at getting stuck venture a
> \guess as to what percentage of the stuck cases a come-a-long would get you
> \out relative to an electric winch?  Is it half as useful?  Thanks.

I have both an electric and a PTO (not on the same LR). There have 
only been a couple of times that I would have had trouble with a 
come-a-long. And even then I probably would have managed, just with 
alot more work & time, but then as Ghandi said, "There are more 
things to life than increasing it's speed." (I think he used a
come-a-long.) I like my winch because there's little enough room in 
my LR and leaving a come-a-long attched to the outside makes it prone 
to rust. I used my PTO winch for woodlot work.
If you go the come-a-long route you'll definately want a couple of 
extra 25' or 50' lengths of cable.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------
[ <- Message 30 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950921 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date:          Wed, 20 Sep 1995 09:29:27 GMT -0600
Subject:       Re: Bullet proof tyres

  Easton Trevor writes:
Snip
> Based on the above I believe that, despite what we see in the movies,  the 
> lightlyhood of any tyre being punctured by gunfire, except at close range or 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> won't be disabled by some bozo shooting at our tyres. Just be careful if he 
> gets frustrated and raises his line of sight.

Were you firing at the tread or sidewall?
I wonder if the sidewalls of tires would be more easily penetrated by 
projectiles of the lead type since they are generally only one or two 
ply, while the tread, especially 16"ers,  are at min 6ply, and usually 8ply.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------
[ <- Message 31 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950921 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

From: mvdscape@iafrica.com
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 1995 22:01:41 +0000
Subject: Re: Handy Compressor

> He had gone to the junk yard, and found an air conditioner compressor, hooked 
> it to the block by maching brackets, and ran a belt to it off the pully.
> Any thoughts on doing this the Rovers?

I have the same thing in my SIIA and it works like a dream.  The 
trick is to get an "old" one with a lot of wear on it's pistons.  You 
the fill it about halfway with oil for lubrication (because there is 
no more coolant acting as lubrication).  If you use a new one it will 
definately cease.
Important is a decent oil and water trap.  I inflate a tyre from 90kPA
 to 200kPA in about one and a half minutes. (Hope my units are 
correct)

Also handy for inflating a rubberduck.  

Marius van der Spuy   (Cape Town, South Africa)

Replies to - mvdscape@iafrica.com

------------------------------
[ <- Message 32 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950921 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

Date: Thu, 21 Sep 1995 06:12:19 +0800 (WST)
From: TONY YATES  <tonyy@waalpha.wa.BoM.GOV.AU>
Subject: Re: Come-a-long question

I may have missed something here, but can someone please
tell me what a "come-a-long" is!!??

Thanks.

==========================================================
                                      ()  (  )      ()
Tony Yates                           (  ) (   )    (  )
Bureau of Meteorology               (    )(    ) (      )
Port Hedland                       (       )   )(        )
Western Australia                 (          ) ) --------
                                   ------------
ph:  (091) 401 350                 \\\**\\**\
fax: (091) 401 100                   \***\*\
                                       \\*\
email: A.Yates@bom.gov.au                \\

==========================================================

------------------------------
[ <- Message 33 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950921 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

From: "Wingtang, Simon" <SWingtan@vttsvic1.telecom.com.au>
Subject: RE. Spongy Brakes
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 95 06:34:00 EST

Sorry Alan I missed your original post but I know how you feel.  I rebuilt 
the brakes on my SWB ( 80" ) 1952 SI a while ago as I wasn't happy with the 
way they felt.  I found that the previous owner had decided to fit the same 
size wheel cylinders front and back and stuck in a proportioning valve to 
stop the back locking up.  So I decided to replace the lot and get some 
height back into the pedal and just to make things better fit a power 
booster.

So I bought all the gear, well the wheel cylinders and brake fluid anyway, a 
good friend who worked at a brake reline place re-did my shoes for me :-), 
and proceeded to pull the brake system apart.  I stripped everything, 
dismantled all the pipes as well as the master cylinder and reservoir, 
cleared the lot and put in new seals.  Just to make sure everything was 
going to work I even assembled all rubber parts with rubber grease, you 
know, the expensive stuff.

I re-did all the piping to add in the booster and fitted the new wheel 
cylinders, shoes and as they looked a bit suss. I even put in new adjusters. 
 I had the drums checked and although you "should" machine the drums if you 
fit new linings they were already close to maximum diameter thanks to the 
age of the car and had no marks to speak of so I left them as they were.

So after fitting the lot and double checking everything including the 
springs I filled up with fluid and started to bleed.  Now I've bled brakes 
on a few cars so I knew what I was doing and after expelling a goodly amount 
of air free fluid from each cylinder I checked the pedal and found it went 
to the floor and took 3 pumps to come up.  So I re-bled the brakes and found 
there was no change.

This went on for 2 days and I went through 2 liters of fluid.  I had spoken 
to numerous people about this and got the usual adjusters/springs/shoes 
stories but I knew these were all ok.  So in the end I mentioned it passing 
to a mate and he said that he heard of a guy who basically bled his brakes 
and then just undid the bleed screws and let the fluid drain for a few mins 
to clear the air.  Well I was grabbing at straws so that's what I did, 
started at the far rear wheel and just undid the screw and walked away for 5 
min.  Came back and did it up, topped up the reservoir, undid the near rear 
screw and walked away again.

I did this for all wheels and I then checked the pedal, it was the best 
pedal I'd ever had on the Landy.  In fact I thought something was wrong it 
was so good, the truck stopped better that ever and it even out braked an 
Alfa when I had a trailer on the back ( but that's another story ).

I don't think that this will work for you though as your bleed screws are in 
a different position but I find it helps when I know I'm not the only one 
with a problem.  Hope this makes you feel a bit better.

     Simon Wing-Tang
     swingtan@vttsvic1.telecom.com.au

  

------------------------------
[ <- Message 34 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950921 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

Date: Wed, 20 Sep 1995 17:30:32 -0600 (MDT)
From: Rob Bailey <baileyr@cuug.ab.ca>
Subject: Re: LR Split Rims

>When I bought my Lightweight from Al Tocci back in '86, I had a choice of 
>NATO's bullet proof tires or two piece rims. I chose the two piece rims. 
>It's nice to know I can still get bullet proof tires if I want them.
>Who needs Chicago when you have NH logging roads.

I have a pair of Land Rover split rims, and was wondering if anybody else 
has any experience with them. I haven't been using them, and one person I 
talked to indicated that he thought they were dangerous. I have heard a 
fair amount about the dangers of split rims exploding etc..., but really 
don't know what makes them so dangerous. The rims have a single 
piece back and centre, and a separate rim "front" section bolted on 
just outside the centre. Do regular (dangerous) truck split rims have the 
same design? Are these rims useful, should I be using them (I have a 
fairly good pair of really tall 7.50x16's on them now) or should I just 
carefully remove the tires and mount them on one piece rims?

Thanks in advance,
Rob

------------------------------
[ <- Message 35 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950921 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

From: BobandSueB@aol.com
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 1995 19:40:29 -0400
Subject: those bleeding brakes

It has come to my attention twice last week that some of the brake impared
lro's automatically think if the pedal is low, then the brakes need bleeding.
And the pedal stays low so maybe bleeding isn't going right. 
My input just to try to help out, is...
If the pedal is low, but still firm, then only adjusting is needed to bring
the pedal up.
If the pedal is spongy  whether low or high, then bleeding is necessary.
Hope this helps someone.

Bob B 
LROA membership

------------------------------
[ <- Message 36 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950921 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

From: BobandSueB@aol.com
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 1995 20:07:12 -0400
Subject: Land Rover Owners Assoc, NA

Dear LRO's

There have been several messages put out by LROA members concerning the
happenings at the Club's General Meeting held
September 17, 1995.  

As stated in one message, there will be a letter going 
out to all members from LROA President, Steve Hill, detailing
the areas where our Club needs your help.

Please be assured, that LROA is still a viable organization, albiet
in need of more VOLUNTEER participation.

Bob and I have been asked to remain in the  Treasurer/Membership 
positions on the Steering Committee.  Roger Sinasohn who had 
offered to take over our functions in order to help fill the void, 
was asked to step into the Secretary function, but has declined.
This is a position that needs to be filled.  Brad Blevins is stepping
down as Newsletter Editor, and Jimmy Patrick will be assuming this
position.  

We wish at this time to thank Brad for all his time and efforts, and for
putting so much of himself into the AW.  We also want to thank him
for graciously offering to help Jimmy as he steps in as Editor.

Regards,

Sue Bernard and Bob Bernard
Treasurer/Membership, LROA,NA
BobandSueB@aol.com

------------------------------
[ <- Message 37 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950921 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

Date: Wed, 20 Sep 95 17:22:07 MST
From: DEBROWN@SRP.GOV
Subject: '87 RR intermittent performance problem.

FROM:  David Brown                           Internet: debrown@srp.gov
       Computer Graphics Specialist * Mapping Services & Engr Graphics
       PAB219 (602)236-3544 -  Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486
SUBJECT: '87 RR intermittent performance problem.
Has anyone any ideas that may help me troubleshoot an intermittent
performance problem I'm having with my '87 RR?

Problem: Occasionally it'll have *very* little power at all throttle
positions except full throttle.

Items replaced: Fuel pump, Fuel filter, "Sock" filter on the fuel pump,
Throttle "potentiometer" (throttle position switch), and the water temp
sensor. Vacuum lines have been checked as well, and the fuel line blown out
with air.

I'm told it could be: Throttle air meter, (very expensive) ignition
amplifier, distributor, coil, ECU (More $$$) or even an alternator.

Apparently this has been a problem with the vehicle for quite some time, as
the shop that I wes referred to ("British Sports Car Service" in Phoenix)
where the vehicle was maintained by the PO (Previous Owner) was well aware
of the problem and told me what they had done to date to try to resolve
this.

Anyone hear of a similar problem and may want to offer a guess??

Thanks,

#=======#                Never doubt that a small group of individuals
|__|__|__\___            can change the world... indeed, it's the only
| _|  |   |_ |}          thing that ever has.
"(_)""""""(_)"                                          -Margaret Mead

------------------------------
[ <- Message 38 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950921 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

Date: Wed, 20 Sep 1995 20:55:56 -0500
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: The low-down on tops

Just what is Rover doing here?  In the US, you can only get hardtops for the 
D-90 for an astronomical price in case you don't like the original rag top. 
A chap from the Netherlands wrote me a while ago looking for a soft-top; 
seems all he could find on the continent were hard tops.  Is this some kind 
of perverse marketing campaign?  Bring vehicles in-country in only one guise 
and charge an arm and a leg for anything else?  What happened to "The 
World's Most Versatile Vehicle"?
      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |       Rover Owners' Association of Virginia         |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 804-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    804-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 804-622-7056     |
      *-----------------------------------------------------*

------------------------------
[ <- Message 39 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950921 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

From: jpappa01@interserv.com
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 95 18:18:31 PDT
Subject: Re: 	Cagey 90s

The final version of the NAS D90 SW is still unknown at this writing. The 
issue of the type of rollover device is still something that LRNA has not 
firmed up to the point of releasing definitive info to the dealer network or 
the buying public... I hope that we will all know something before the actual 
vehicles begin to arrive.

According to a well-placed source at LRNA, the *400* D90 SW's are already 
largely presold. This should be no surprise to anyone who witnessed the 1993 
NAS D110 -where all 500 were sold within 1 week of the announcement of 
availability. 

As far as the cage? Lotsa questions about retrofitting earlier D90s from those 
who do not like the fiberglass top. Safety Devices in the UK mfrs. integrated 
external cages for not only D90s but also series landies. Safety Devices was 
the OEM for the NAS D110 external cage and the D90 cages I have seen in the UK 
look damned similar! Surely this would be a cheaper alternative to some of the 
scenarios posted on the net. So perhaps the used D90 top/Safety Devices 
external cage would be a suitable alternative? Safety Devices usually places 
ads in LRO/LRW. 

Anyway. Food for thought.

My personal thoughts (not that anyone really asked for them) on LROA's 
*dilemma?* I too thought that the best function of the LROA was to serve as an 
information resource through its AW voice. I am not sure as to the absolute 
benefit(s) of a *national club* when so many regional clubs are popping up 
these days. I think that the ARC/member clubs approach in the UK is a viable 
method of serving as an info. source for member clubs as well as to have a 
link (not as much now as in earlier times) with Solihull. LROA could serve as 
a similar *server* if member clubs felt the need to have an aegis 
organization. Our BSROA club is a member of ARC as are many other overseas 
clubs. We enjoy the benefits of ARC membership as far as having access to LR 
information on a timely basis as well as certain limited use of the LR logo. 
Things like the ARC National Rally is hosted each year by a different member 
club (in the UK) thereby by definition spreading the work load over the years 
and avoiding the *board of directors* from burning out and having to *step 
down.* Even in the local/regional clubs - these detractors are a constantly 
real issue. Without a lecture - you (as a member) get out what you put in. As 
Dixon says - the timeliness and quantity of the publication is certainly key. 
Also key is having a variety of events available to members during the course 
of the year. Having both leaves the non-renewing member no one but himself to 
blame.

Through the electronic world and the net as well as large regional events 
there is virtually realtime communication between clubs. Just like right now 
(o.k. - tape delay). Is the need for a *national* club obviated by 
improvements in information systems? Perhaps. Sandy Grice tried to get 
something going a couple of years ago along these lines by trying to get clubs 
to lineup into a new national organization. Not a whole lot happened. 
Meantime, most of the older clubs have grown of late, are becoming more 
active, and we are seeing new club names on virtually a montly basis.

I have always dreamt of having a *NATIONAL RALLY* with some LRNA/LRUK 
participation along the lines of the Jeepers Jamboree. This is a truly large 
scale type of event that could not happen without major corporate sponsorship. 
But for something like this to truly be national in such a large continent as 
North America - would the nationals simply be defacto *regionals?* It is a 
non-issue in the UK for the ARC since the geographic constraints make each 
venue pretty much accessible to any LR enthusiast.

So maybe I favor the continued development of the club scene and greatly 
encourage much more interclub event participation and information-sharing. 
Which many of them do. Right here in the digest...

I hope that LROA stays alive and puts its efforts into continually improving 
its publication - which I think of late is outstanding. Perhaps it could 
someday become the NA version of LRO/LRW! Just my thoughts...

cheerz
Jim - oh my god - I've been on-line *HOW LONG*???

`67 2A 88 5.0L hybrid
`67 2A 109 5.0L hybrid
`68 2B 110 F/C Diesel
`70 P6B 3500S
`90 Range Rover County
`93 D110 (#457/500)
`95 D90 #1958

------------------------------
[ <- Message 40 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950921 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

From: dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au (Daryl Webb)
Subject: Re: Never lock only one?
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 1995 12:07:11 +0930 (CST)

Granville questions: 
> >You should NEVER run with one hub locked and one unlocked.  
> Why not?  The "shift-on-the-fly" set-ups such as my Dodge Dakota and many
> others have uses a vacuum disconnect on only one front axle shaft, in lieu
> of freewheeling hubs.

I dont know how the dodge or toycar/mitsipussy systems work but I'm pretty
sure that on a standard diff just having one axle driving one side gear would
do nasty things to the rest of the diff.  That side gear is going to drive
the bevel gears at high speed (just like doing a one wheel burnout but for a
lot longer), probably spinning the oil out and overheating/seizing the whole
assembly. 

Just the problem seen in the centre diffs on the later vehicles.

(like mine at the moment, opened it up to re-shim and found that one of the
gears has at some stage *almost* siezed on its cross shafts, too far
gone to re-use, so.. new shaft$, gear$, shim$, guess at the clearances (or
use 230R/T specs?) reassemble and find someone to re-balance.... Arghhhh) 

-- 

  Daryl

------------------------------
[ <- Message 41 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950921 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

Date: Wed, 20 Sep 1995 21:22:27 -0700 (PDT)
From: "John C. White III" <jcwhite3@well.com>
Subject: Re: The low-down on tops

Good question, Alex.  I also wonder whether or not Land Rover North 
America, Land Rover Sulihull, or any of the dealers are on the network 
and monitoring the traffic.  I mentioned to my dealership that there was 
an international and a regional group of LROs on the Internet, and that 
it was interesting to read about others experiences with their vehicles.  
What I got back was a look of non-comprehension, sort of a "Internet???  
That's some sort of computer, isn't it?"   I found this especially 
disturbing given that where I live (San Francisco) is to computers what 
Newcastle is to coal.

Land Rover and its affiliates really need to pay more attention.  
Marketing is only the beginning.

Cheers!
John
'95 Discovery
San Francisco, California

On Wed, 20 Sep 1995, Alexander P. Grice wrote:

> To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net
> Just what is Rover doing here?  In the US, you can only get hardtops for the 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 22 lines)]
>       |    804-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 804-622-7056     |
>       *-----------------------------------------------------*

------------------------------
[ <- Message 42 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950921 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

From: jgoldman@acs.bu.edu
Subject: Some simple queries...
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 1995 01:12:22 -0400 (EDT)

	After spending some weeks "listening in" on the wealth of knowledge
that is traded on the list, I've decided to de-lurk, as it were, and ask a few
questions.
	First of all, after spending a few of my younger, more formative years
growing up in the presence of Land Rovers (Kenya) I've decided that I now want
a Rover worse than a coffee habit! Specifically, I'm looking for a Series IIA
or III (IIA preferable). I'll cite, ruggedness, simplicity, and a desire to
learn its inner workings as some of my reasons for wanting a Rover. Not to
mention, I've always admired the Land Rover marque, and I am in need of
transportation. It would technically be my first vehicle, and after all, in 20
years, which sounds better? My first vehicle was a Toyota? Or, my first
vehicle was a Land Rover, and well... look, here it still is!
	Browsing Web pages and FAQs on the subject have enhanced my knowledge
a great deal, considering all I previously knew about Rovers was what they
looked like. Thank you to all who put time and dedication into preparing
them. They've been a great help. There are are, however, a few items which
have eluded me. Having limited knowledge of auto mechanics, and 4x4s in
general (I know the basics, I'm not mechanically declined, and catch on fairly
quick, I hope) I've come up with a few simple (should be) questions. I'd
appreciate any and all help I can get.

1. What were the different models of IIA and III? I'm familiar with the Pickup
and Station Wagon? What's a Safari, etc? Also, while the designation Pickup
leaves little to the imagination, what are the details on the SW?

2. What were the various types of tops? I am familiar with the standard canvas
soft top and the hardtop, but I have also heard the terms Bikini, Bimini, and
Tropical, etc. What are these?

3. I'm looking to use the Rover as daily transportation on the road. I don't
anticipate much heavy off-roading in the near future. With that in mind, I
know (as with all 4x4s) that the standard Petrol Rover engines perform with
abysmal gas mileage. What are the options for Diesel conversion, and what
problems, advice, tips, or tricks exist?

4. I know that the number one thing to watch out for when looking for a used
Rover is frame, frame, frame. What are outriggers?

5. What are differential locks? When are they used, and why?

6. Having driven all syncho gearboxes all my life, I'm a bit unfamiliar with
the technique of double-clutching. I know that the Series IIA has doesn't have
synchro on 1 and 2. How do I get the two things to work together (double
clutching and non-synchro gearboxes)?

7. I'm located in the US (Boston, MA). Aside from the big parts distributors
(Rovers North, etc.) how hard is it to find parts for Series vehicles?

8. What should I pay for a stock Rover in good condition in the Northeast? How
much should I add for an Overdrive? I don't have deep pockets... I'm looking
for an 88" IIA.

9. A standard four speed gearbox with Overdrive unit gives me a selection of
16 gears. What are the differences between High and Low modes?

10. Are there any Series owners in my vicinity (Boston, MA) that would be
willing to give a guided tour of their Rovers?

	Well, that's an even ten. Thanks for all your replies. I'm sure
that'll hold me for awhile. Aside from Hemmings, the only other publication
near-by that I've found Series vehicles for sale in is the local Want
Advertiser. Anyone know of another source? They do seem very far a few
between...
	Thanks again.

-- Jeff Goldman -->

E-Mail: jgoldman@acs.bu.edu

	

------------------------------
[ <- Message 43 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950921 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

From: RICKCRIDER@aol.com
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 1995 01:27:40 -0400
Subject: LROA Membership?

How does one gain information and join LROA and recieve and/or join Aluminum
Workhorse?    I see lots of postings on the matter but no info on joining in.
   Thanks.
Rick Crider  KD4FXA
Monroe  NC
66 Slla 109"    (Hugo)   .............for sale....to good home.
73 Slll   88"     (Jesse)
88 Range Rover

------------------------------
[ <- Message 44 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950921 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

Date: Thu, 21 Sep 1995 01:54:45 -0400 (EDT)
From: James Kirkpatrick - INEN/F94 <jkirkpat@acs.ryerson.ca>
Subject: 101 FC Restoration?

If anyone is undertaking or has finished a 101 Forward Control and is 
well versed in the ways of the winch, OR HAS A MANUAL (I have been told 
that this is a fabled documnent that doesn't actually exist) please let 
me know.

Tom met a Steve Denis from New York who claimed to have the 101FC winch 
manual when he was at the Ottawa Vally meet this summer.  If Steve is on 
the list or if someone knows him I'd like to talk to him.

Thanks-
Jay Kirkpatrick
55 Ser.I
58 Ser.II
70 Ser.IIA  
Broken 101FC winch!!

------------------------------
[ <- Message 45 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950921 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

Date: Wed, 20 Sep 1995 23:31:32 +0100
From: cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine)
Subject: Re: For sale!

____________________________________
>Dan O' Rosa has to sell his car :-<

1961 88" Hard Top with lift gate
new clutch
new slave and master cyl
fuel tank just relined
all new brake cyl, lines, drums resurfaced
points, plugs, cables
new generator, new battery, new 16" tyres
runs strong
factory manuals
some spares

asking $5 million will take $3500
big discount!

call Dan Conner at 707-546-4277
showroom at 630 wright street, Santa Rosa
(about one hour north of San Francisco/Oakland, CA USA)
____________________________________

 Dan Conner's Land Rover 'Holly' can now be seen at
 http://www.crl.com/~cs/conner.html

-Michael Carradine
 cs@crl.com

------------------------------
[ <- Message 46 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950921 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

Date: Thu, 21 Sep 1995 00:09:50 +0100
From: cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine)
Subject: Re: LROA Membership?

 Rick Crider <RICKCRIDER@aol.com> writes:
  
>How does one gain information and join LROA and recieve and/or join Aluminum
>Workhorse?    I see lots of postings on the matter but no info on joining in.

 Send your name, address and Rover information (if any) along with the US$20
 annual dues to:  LROA/NA Membership, PO Box 1144, Paradise, CA 95967 USA
 (Canada and Mexico add US$4, all other countries add US$6 for mailing).
 You will be issued a membership number, window sticker (?), and will receive
 the Aluminum Workhorse four times a year, among other benefits.

 Michael Carradine, Architect                          Ph/Fax 510-988-0900
 Carradine Studios, PO Box 494, Walnut Creek, CA 94597 USA    <cs@crl.com>
 _________________________________________________________________________
 Mercedes-Benz Unimog 4x4 WWW page at:  http://www.crl.com/~cs/unimog.html

------------------------------
[ <- Message 47 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950921 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

  END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST 
 Input:  messages 45 lines 2444 [forwarded 125 whitespace 560]
 Output: lines 2142 [content 1384  forwarded 98 (cut  27) whitespace 544]

Back Forward

Photos & text Copyright 1990-2011 Bill Caloccia, All rights reserved.
Digest Messages Copyright 1990-2011 by the original poster or/and Bill Caloccia, All rights reserved.