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From: Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: Re : LR Lighting
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 95 9:10:41 BST

	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 35 lines)]
> Fax:     (61 8) 226 3655
> E-Mail:  tiffanyd@tafe.sa.edu.au
> ********************************************
Are we talking front or rear?My 1970 11A has side lights uppermost at front
indicators uppermost at rear.
Incidentally,were 11A models made in Oz *after* 1971? I always thought the
111 superceded the 11A Oct of that year.
Cheers
Mike Rooth

------------------------------

From: sreddock@VNET.IBM.COM
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 95 10:51:32 BST
Subject: Rangemasters

A year or so ago I visited the Rover museum at Gaydon (good place to go if you
are in the area) and paid my extra pound fifty for the trip round the off-road
course in a 110 TDi.  The vehicle was shod on rangemaster radials.

The whole course was designed to surprise the inexperinced with the abilities
of Land-Rovers, but always be within the limits of the vehicle.  Imagine the
embarrassment if it got stuck!  The tyres they chose could just be a set they
had lying around, or they could have chosen carefully.

The tyres can't be that bad as there was a proper amount of mud in places
as it was the middle of a very wet spell and we had no trouble.

If Rover use them it does sound like quite a good recommendation.

A friend a uni also had a set on his Lightweight (V6 of course) and he was
quite happy with them, apart from the cost of replacing them as they were
a bit worn.  However he had no experiences on other tyres at the time to
compare them to.

But I also agree that there are better tyres around.  It all depends on what
you want.  My personal favorite for mixed duty use is the BFG Trac-Edge.

Steve Reddock. Lightweight

------------------------------

From: L.Batten@lse.ac.uk
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 95 11:32:22 GMT
Subject: Free Wheeling Hubs

     Dear all
     
     On my recently purchased Series IIa, I have a set of Free Wheeling 
     Hubs.  Being new to Rovering, I'm not entirely sure what these do and 
     for that matter what I should do with them.  They are 'locked' at the 
     moment but would appreciate any advice and details.
     
     Also seeing as I'm going to be asking some fairly silly questions over 
     the next few months while I get use to my Landie, could anyone tell me 
     where I can find a FAQ on Land Rover questions ?
     
     All help greatly received.
     
     Leigh
     
     ----------------------------------------------------------------------
     
     Leigh Batten
     London School of Economics              E-mail - L.BATTEN@LSE.AC.UK
     Room A240                               Tel:   - 0171-955-6714
     Houghton Street
     London                                  Mobile - 0378-134-660
     WC2A 2AE                                
                             1966 IIa SWB - "Janie"
     ----------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date:          Tue, 19 Sep 1995 07:34:37 GMT -0600
Subject:       Re: [Bullet proof] Avon Rangemasters

When I bought my Lightweight from Al Tocci back in '86, I had a choice of 
NATO's bullet proof tires or two piece rims. I chose the two piece rims. It's 
nice to know I can still get bullet proof tires if I want them.
Who needs Chicago when you have NH logging roads.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

From: WASSILI@AMC.UVA.NL
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 1995 15:23:44 +0001
Subject: ASCII image for Discovery

Hello folks,

What do you think of this as a not so hard to draw image for a Disco?
 ______
|  ### \______
| ## ### #####\
|## ###  ######\______
|    ___\      | ___  \
|___/   \=A6_____=A6/   \ |
    ( 0 )       ( 0 )

Greetings Roy.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Sep 1995 10:16:27 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Francis J. Twarog" <ftwarog@moose.uvm.edu>
Subject: Here's the skinny...

This is in regards to Pierce Reid's etc. inquiries about fitting an 
aluminum top onto a soft top Defender 90... The only way to do it is by 
buying the parts individually through a company like Rovers North.  The 
problem there is that Land Rover never sold the top as a "kit" to anyone, 
so individual pieces would have to be bought (Mark Letorney quoted me a 
price of over $6000!! about a year ago) *or* hope that they or another 
company could ship in a used top.  Then, you'd have to get in touch with 
LRNA or a machine shop to purchase the roll cage pieces that are just 
above the driver and passenger doors (toward the rear) because those are 
different on hardtop 90s than softtop ones (the softtop ones pass through 
and connect to the interior roll cage, while the hardtop one on the 43 
limited edition MY94 permanent hardtop models attached directly to the 
top itself).  Another option is to buy one of the 43 MY94 models and 
purchase the interior roll cage for summer use (again, having to buy the 
different bar sections above the doors) - this is actually the *easiest* 
option, as the roll cage can be bought from LRNA for less than the 
individual hardtop pieces...  Last option is to hope that the MY95 
Defender Station Wagons are set up the same as the MY94 limited edition 
model was.  I have seen 2 photos of the Station wagon in the 1996 
Discovery brochure and the newest Road and Track magazine - both show 
that at this time, the MY95 Defender has the same external roll cage as 
the MY94 did (i.e. *NOT* like the 110's full cage that has external bars 
down the sides of the hardtop roof sides in the rear - but this could 
change on the vehicles themselves because they won't be here for another 
2 months).  The clincher is that there very well may be an internal cage 
that is not visible in either photo - since there are 4 seats in the 
rear, there has to be protection for those passengers (the MY94 didn't 
have any roll cage in the back, so the rear seat wasn't an option through 
the dealer), so I'm betting that there is a complex interior cage or 
there will be an exterior cage on the vehicles that are actually 
imported.  Therefore, I'd bet that converting a MY95 Station Wagon to a 
softtop would be infinitely harder than changing a MY94 limited hardtop 
to the softtop configuration.  As I've said, it isn't too cost effective 
to change a softtop Def 90 to an aluminum hardtop under the present 
system of buying the individual pieces - perhaps LRNA will import an 
aluminum kit, though that isn't too likely, since softtop production of 
Def 90s has already ceased.  Why bother, since customers appear to be 
content with the fiberglass and there won't be any more softtops anyway?  
(actually to contradict myself, I have heard that there might be as many 
as 140 softtops still being produced and only 400 hardtops, though that 
is only a rumor).  
	I hope this helps a bit - didn't mean to confuse anyone by 
jumping around.  Although I'd love to have an aluminum hardtop (and have 
been trying for over a year to get one), we finally settled on the 
fiberglass because of the roll cage's protection of passengers in the 
rear (no matter how it is set up, a softtop 90 being converted to an 
aluminum hardtop will *not* allow for a rollcage in the rear - something 
to think about if you take more than one other passenger).  Good luck and 
remember - if you want a MY95 hardtop 90, you'd better put a deposit down 
quick, cause they're selling out fast!!!!

Frank Twarog
Burlington, VT   USA

------------------------------

Date: 19 Sep 95 10:37:59 EDT
From: Mike Kneafsey <73407.1504@compuserve.com>
Subject: Rovers in Oklahoma

Having lurked on this list for a year now I am getting to the point where I
would like to become one of you happy LR owners.  The problem is I have
never actually driven on been in an Series LR.  Surprisingly Saturday I saw
a Series LR 109 pickup/canvas top in Tulsan painted military green, but I
could not come back and find them.  There also is a 88 3 door sitting by a
hanger at the airport, but I have not taken the time to track down that
owner, it does not appear to move.
 
What I would like is a 3 or 5 door 109 in good shape.  Is anyone in the area
that I could see and "test drive" any Series LR.
 
Thanks,
 
Mike Kneafsey
Tulsa

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Sep 1995 16:47:28 +0200
From: terje@tvnorge.no (Terje Krogdahl)
Subject: RR Swivel pin preloads

Can anyone tell me the correct preload for RR swivel pin housings?
A friend of mine needs some help...

Terje K
'72 88" SIII

>.

------------------------------

From: K Schmidt <s20845@hp.rmc.ca>
Subject: half-shafts what material? - what material?
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 95 11:38:57 EDT

As many others have done, I have broken a rear half-shaft on my LR.  This
unfortunate incident happened as I was coasting through a stop sign and
attempted to drive away in second gear.  BANG!...grindgrindgrind..  :( After I
figured out what had gone wrong I put in 4wd and drove home, still mad about the
shaft, but happy to have a LR!

I'm back at school and curious to find out just why the shaft broke, I brought
it in to my metallurgy professor.  We will be cutting it apart to examine the
fracture :)  However, my prof would like more information on the composition of
the metal.  Does anyone know where I could go about finding out what the
composition of the metal that was originally used by LR for this part?  As well,
I'd like to know what kind of heat treating was used and how it was machined (it
appears that the ends have been machined from a cast rod with enlarged ends)
*Any* info on this subject would be appreciated.  The shaft came from a 62 88".
Thanks!  

Kurt

------------------------------

From: Jeff Gauvin <jeffg@minerva.ncrmicro.ncr.com>
Subject: D90 "resonance"
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 95 10:18:15 MDT

Since the day I bought my '94 D90, it has made an annoying vibration or
"resonance" noise when accelerating through 35-45 MPH in 3rd gear, and
again at about 60 MPH.  It seems to be a combination of road-speed and
engine RPM, though I should note that decelerating through these speeds
does not cause the noise.

At first I thought it might be something in the instrument cluster area
(as this seems to be the apparent source of the noise), but then I
noticed that it is louder from outside the vehicle, so it's probably
something underneath or in the engine compartment.  It sounds like a
vibrating piece of sheet-metal (exhaust maybe?).

Any other D90 owners have this problem?  What is causing the noise and
can it be fixed?  I know I should just take my LR mechanic for a ride
and let him listen, but I thought I would get a few opinions first.

Thanks!
--
Jeffrey J. Gauvin		email: jeff.gauvin@symbios.com
Symbios Logic Inc.		Voice: 719-573-3563
1635 Aeroplaza Dr.		FAX: 719-573-3824
Colorado Springs, CO 80916

------------------------------

From: Russell Burns <burns@cisco.com>
Subject: Re: Here's the skinny...
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 95 9:25:31 PDT

j> 
> To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net
> This is in regards to Pierce Reid's etc. inquiries about fitting an 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)]
> so individual pieces would have to be bought (Mark Letorney quoted me a 
> price of over $6000!! about a year ago) *or* hope that they or another 
It seems to me that if LRNA sells 500 90 hardtops, they must supply
the replacement parts. I have no idea what the cost may be.

Russ Burns
> To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net

------------------------------

Date: 19 Sep 95 12:19:30 EDT
From: Mark Ritter <70472.1130@compuserve.com>
Subject: Rednecks

Judging from Walt Pokines story of good tires and flying lead it would seem that
all rednecks do not live in the Georgia (my home) In 5 1/2 years of hiking,
mountain biking, kayaking, climbing and off roading I have never had a bad
incedent with locals. While the two low-lifes in his story were obviously
looking for trouble there is a good message here. Never argue with a man with a
gun armed only with a Land Rover!		
					Mark Ritter  94 Disco (unarmed)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Sep 95 09:48:19 -0700
From: "TeriAnn Wakeman"  <twakeman@apple.com>
Subject: Re: Here's the skinny...

In message <199509191418.JAA06574@butler.uk.stratus.com> "Francis J. Twarog" 
writes:
> This is in regards to Pierce Reid's etc. inquiries about fitting an 
> aluminum top onto a soft top Defender 90... The only way to do it is by 
> buying the parts individually through a company like Rovers North.

you've got be making things too difficult.  Why not just purchase a used D90 
hard top from the UK, unbolt the roll cage, and bolt on the hard top.  If you 
want, you can reaffix the roll cage whenever you want to run around with the top
off.

TeriAnn Wakeman           FOR SALE:  1968 MGBGT. British racing green with
twakeman@apple.com                    black interior. overdrive. recently
                          US$ 2500    rebuilt engine & brakes. very minor       
                                      surface rust at paint scratches   
              
                         
                       

------------------------------

From: Alan Richer <Alan_Richer.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date: 19 Sep 95  9:38:11 EDT
Subject: Tire Pressure?

What tire pressure does anyone run with radials on a Series
beast? I had Churchill reshod with Uniroyal 235/85-16 radials
and they put in 40PSI. With that, he has picked up this distressing
bouncing gait that's going to make me carsick...8*)

    Any opinions?

    ajr

------------------------------

From: Andrew Grafton <A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: Here's the skinny...
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 95 19:01:45 BST

Re : Teriann's comments about Al tops and fibre tops - I agree 
that getting a used one from the UK would be a cheap option 
(compared to $6K!). 
Just bear in mind that the Al top isn't really up to a roll of any
real force...  It might be that you'd want to fit an alternative
roll cage rather than just removing the existing one.

Might be best to modify the existing cage to fit inside an Al
hardtop to avoid hassle.

(then you may lose the looks, tho')

Just thinkin'

All the best,

Andy
A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk

 

------------------------------

From: Andrew Grafton <A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk>
Subject: Re : Tyre Pressure?
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 95 19:36:47 BST

> What tire pressure does anyone run with radials on a Series
 beast? I had Churchill reshod with Uniroyal 235/85-16 radials
> and they put in 40PSI. With that, he has picked up this distressing
 bouncing gait that's going to make me carsick...8*)

Oh, lordy!

Here's my experience so far.
109" SIII LWB diesel.

Crossplies - 28 to 30 rear, less than 25 front.

Radials - 25-35 front, 32-45 rear.

Depending on load and type of driving.

I run our XCL's at 28 front, 35 rear with light loads and one person
around town, a bit harder for long distances and very hard with 
lots of people and big loads.

Lower pressures appear to cause lots of wear.

I'd say 40 is a bit hard, and that high front pressures lead to
the front bouncing unacceptably.  Try the fronts at 30 and see what 
happens?

Any other advice gratefully recieved.

All the best,

Andy
A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Sep 95 11:46:13 -0700
From: "TeriAnn Wakeman"  <twakeman@apple.com>
Subject: Re: Here's the skinny...

In message <199509191801.NAA06968@butler.uk.stratus.com> Andrew Grafton writes:
> To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net

	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 11 lines)]
> real force...  It might be that you'd want to fit an alternative
> roll cage rather than just removing the existing one.

There are a lot of us out there with series LRs and no roll bar but the hard 
top.  I've seen a number rolled (a 109 went on its side at the outing last 
weekend).  I have yet to see a series hard top roll over so badly that the top 
didn't protect its owners.  It could happen.  like maybe falling off a bridge 
top first.

TeriAnn Wakeman           FOR SALE:  1968 MGBGT. British racing green with
twakeman@apple.com                    black interior. overdrive. recently
                          US$ 2500    rebuilt engine & brakes. very minor       
                                      surface rust at paint scratches   
              
                         
                       

------------------------------

From: Andrew Grafton <A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: Here's the skinny...
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 95 20:03:51 BST

> > Re : Teriann's comments about Al tops and fibre tops - I agree 
 that getting a used one from the UK would be a cheap option 
> > (compared to $6K!). 
 Just bear in mind that the Al top isn't really up to a roll of any
> > real force...  It might be that you'd want to fit an alternative
 roll cage rather than just removing the existing one.

> There are a lot of us out there with series LRs and no roll bar but the hard 
 top.  I've seen a number rolled (a 109 went on its side at the outing last 
 weekend).  I have yet to see a series hard top roll over so badly that the top 
> didn't protect its owners.  It could happen.  like maybe falling off a bridge 
> top first.

I've seen an 88" (stronger than that 109) roll over once
and flatten the roof and windscreen to the top of the 
pickup sides.  It does happen.  Cause : driver error.  Total
height differential of drop approximately 10 feet, down a 45 degree
bank (i.e. not a vertical drop) and nothing like your bridge scenario.

It was just their bad luck that the force on the roof was shear from
the side rather than a 'proper' roll.  Fortunately nobody was injured.
The hard top is not a substitute for roll protection if that is on the
cards for your vehicle.

I said a roll of any 'real force' - like one that
would flatten a standard hard top.

I wasn't criticising those with hard tops for being 'unsafe' etc.
Just pointing out that the hard top was not designed to be rolled 
on and therefore should not be considered a substitute for something
designed for the job.  It may well work in an emergency, but situations
where it may be tested can and do arise in relatively basic off-road
driving.  I'd much rather rely on a bit of scaffold pole than luck.

I'm also not prone to being overly cautious.  I was just presenting
another point of view.

All the best,

Andy
A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk

------------------------------

From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date: 19 Sep 95 15:12:59 EDT
Subject: Re: Here's the skinny...

TeriAnn says:

> I have yet to see a series hard top roll over so badly that the top 
>didn't protect its owners.  It could happen.  like maybe falling off a bridge 
>top first.

Yes, but I pity whatever it lands on.....

Actually, in a vehicle like a Series Landy or Defender, if you're moving
fast enough, there isn't anything in the world that'll keep you alive in the
event of a rollover. Highway speeds are the nemesis of vehicles without
integral roof rollbars.

Personally, I just consider it one of the hazards of life and figure that
I can us my own skills and judgment to minimize the risks.

Judgement like not driving with bad brakes, Dixon....8*)

    ajr

------------------------------

From: Russell Burns <burns@cisco.com>
Subject: Waving
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 95 12:24:42 PDT

Yesterday while driving around the left coast in rental Neon,
I pulled up to a stoplight with a green disco. Of course I promply
waved to the gent, and only recived a strange stare.
(I think he thought I was trying to make a pass at him)
I then proceeded to roll down the window and explained that
I normaly drive Land Rover, and I wave at all ROvers.
The driver of the Disco got a good laugh over that....

Russ Burns
Still left on the coast..

------------------------------

Date: 19 Sep 95 15:19:04 EDT
From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com>
Subject: Re: Spongy pedal

Alan Richer sez:

>  I am beginning to hate this car.
>   this is not good.

Please, *don't hate* your LR ! It's dangerous. Land Rovers can sense
emotions. Swearing at a LR is the surest way to cause it to break down
permanently. I know of an incident in Algeria some years back where an ill-
tempered driver kicked and swore at his S.II LR because it kept stalling.
Surprisingly it suddenly started up, ran beautyfully for a few miles, then
stopped dead. Hours of troubleshooting by three experienced LR
buffs and boxloads of spares couldn't get the beast to run again - it
had to be abandoned. I can name eye witnesses for this!

As for your brakes, assuming you've checked and fixed everything else -
flex lines, cylinders, shoes, drum diameter, proper bleeding - then Terry
Anne's response points in the right direction:  Adjuster functionality and
correct installation and alingment of retention springs and shoes.  The
manual is unfortunately very vague on brake reassembly.  However, you
*cannot* just slap the shoes and springs in there any old how, and the
exact location of the linings on the shoes also makes a difference.  The
main brake cylinder on a Series Land Rover is a rather frugal construction,
delivering just, but just enough pressure to move out all slave cylinder
pistons by barely 1 millimeter.  If any one shoe recedes to far from the
drum - 'far' meaning in excess of 2-3 mm - then the main cylinder _will not_
deliver enough piston travel for the brake to engage on the first pump,
even if everything else in the brake system is working perfectly!

Things to check: Are the adjusters functional at all, do they keep the
shoe in position? Is the nipple on the back of the shoe (and it should, of
course, be on the *back* of the shoe) that goes against the adjuster rim
still in good condition, or has it withered from rust, possibly causing it
to slip past the adjuster? Are the springs installed properly, i.e. *behind*
the shoes? Is the spring still functional/correct rating/length? Top and
bottom spring are different. Are the shoes sitting properly and not tilted
in- or outwards? Are the shoes/linings installed right way around? There is
a frontward and backward shoe, the linings are, resp. should be off-centered
on the shoes. On the front shoe, with the lining facing to the front of the
vehicle, the lining should be centered or offset to the top of the shoe; on
the backward shoe, it should be offset to the bottom. After refitting the
drums, and the shoes having been properly centered, adjusters should be
turned clockwise until the linings scrape against the drums and you can
barely turn the drum by hand anymore. Ease off the adjuster just one 'tooth'
anti-clockwise, and that's it. The drum should turn by hand easily, but
there should already be a slight scraping perceivable.

Hope you get your brakes done, if you haven't already. Makes for relaxed
driving...

Stefan
<Stefan R. Jacob, 100043.2400@CompuServe.com>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Sep 1995 15:33:30 -0400 (EDT)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.emr.ca>
Subject: Re: Here's the skinny...

> Judgement like not driving with bad brakes, Dixon....8*)

	You're a perfectionist, I'm not... :-)

------------------------------

From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date: 19 Sep 95 15:44:13 EDT
Subject: Re: rollbars and hardtops

I recently saw a white behemoth 110 Defender running around my town,
complete with what looked like an integral rollcage and roofrack. Might
this be a thought for those who want an aluminum top and seurity?

It was damned UGLY, though... of course, what progeny of a Series Rover
isn't?

  aj"Don't shoot - I own one too"r

------------------------------

From: JEPurnell@aol.com
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 1995 15:51:13 -0400
Subject: Bad axle seal? Check for trout first.

How's this one: Friend and I took my D90 out and scratched up the both sides,
(first up the hill, then down the hill--it looks better this way, really,
uh-huh, higher resale...), then came back and washed both of our rigs.  We
noticed some black fluid on his rear wheel leaking out of his hubcap.  He had
just returned from a serious Utah outing (including a river fording) and I
suggested we check the axle seal and the brake cylinder.  We popped off the
wheel cover. . . and I'll be a 1998 Defender90 with OBDII and airbags if it
wasn't a goll-durned dead and dried up TROUT stuck to his steel wheel !!!!  A
Trout!  Must have snuck in between the rim openings during his fording.  We
just about died laughing.  Ok, Ok, it was a bronco.

John 
94 D90 rustless so far.
N9EJC/6

------------------------------

Subject: The Musical Rover
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 1995 13:22:56 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Doug Carmean" <dcarmean@ichips.intel.com>

The following article was taken from the local newspaper:

  "For what is essentially nothing more than a hollow tree branch, the 
  didjeridu produces an awesome and primal sound.  At first listen, 
  you'd swear you were hearing a synthesizer, so complex are the 
  instrument's low, sonorous drone and writhing overtones."

                [snip]

  "What exactly is a didjeridu?  'Pretty much anything you can put up to
  your mouth and buzz your lips,' says Stirling.  'There are no valves,
  nothing inside but air.'  The traditional didjeridu is a termite-hollowed 
  limb from the stringy bark of the eucalyptus, but there are perfectly 
  playable tubes made of bamboo, agave cactus and plastic.  There's even
  a story about someone using the exhaust manifold off a Land Rover."

So, who has been traveling the world playing their manifold?  Ben Smith 
perhaps?  Or, was that Granville Pool I saw....

Doug 'don't burn your lips' Carmean
1995 RR 4.0SE - MTYDOG
dcarmean@ichips.intel.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Sep 1995 16:40:39 -0400
From: chrisste@clark.net (Chris Stevens)
Subject: Re: Which Gasket Sealant?

>I've used the Permatex brand 'Blue' and 'Copper' versions....both of which
>are the rubbery silicone caulk type sealers.    Used all at various times on
>my Alfas with decent success.   I only want to do this once,  (at least for a
>long while).
>What are some of you LRO tech types finding the most success with?

I just replaced...1,000 miles ago...the sump, head, and valve cover gaskets
without a sealant of any kind. I coated gasket surfaces with oil prior to
installation except for the head gasket which is "self sealing." No leaks
of any kind yet.

Chris Stevens                   1969 88" IIA SW 2.25

BCG Corporate Communications
Towson, Maryland, USA
(410) 583-1722
(410) 583-1935 (FAX)
chrisste@Clark.net

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Sep 95 15:02:01 PDT
From: rlarson@lsil.com (Rick Larson)
Subject: Re: ARB install questions

Mine is under the left front fender.  Just fits and seems to be a good location
for it.  Am experiencing a fuse blowing problem though.  No idea whether or
not it is related to location yet.  The under hood areas of the D90s get
really hot at times though and I have noticed some correlation to blown fuse
rate and temperature.  Where ever you mount it consider some sort of rubber
isolation mounts.  The air chuck works and is worth the effort for filling
tires.  Make sure you can get at it from where ever you mount the compressor.  

If I was to do it again I'd spend some more time looking into engine
driven compressors.  

-Rick
>From: JAMES_CIRBUS@HPATC2.desk.hp.com
>Date: Mon, 18 Sep 95 15:31:00 -0400
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 20 lines)]
>94 D-90
>(three wheel drive by week's end)

Richard Larson
LSI Logic Corporation
(408) 433-7149

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Sep 1995 07:14:10 +0800 (WST)
From: TONY YATES  <tonyy@waalpha.wa.BoM.GOV.AU>
Subject: Re: grease in swivel balls - a no no

On Mon, 18 Sep 1995, Lloyd Allison wrote:

> If you put grease in the swivels, it will be pushed-away from the universals
> and stay away - no lubrications.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> and stay away - no lubrications.
> Lloyd

The mechanic chappie I take my vehicles to for anything which is beyond 
my mechanical ability (most things), swears by grease in the swivel
housings. He put grease in my RR without my say so, and when I first 
topped up the swivels in my 110, which had previously been maintained
by the same chap, what should come out but blue sticky slime! Now I
just top them up regularly and have an interesting oil/grease mixture
in there.

==========================================================
                                      ()  (  )      ()
Tony Yates                           (  ) (   )    (  )
Bureau of Meteorology               (    )(    ) (      )
Port Hedland                       (       )   )(        )
Western Australia                 (          ) ) --------
                                   ------------
ph:  (091) 401 350                 \\\**\\**\
fax: (091) 401 100                   \***\*\
                                       \\*\
email: A.Yates@bom.gov.au                \\

==========================================================

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Sep 1995 07:17:10 +0800 (WST)
From: TONY YATES  <tonyy@waalpha.wa.BoM.GOV.AU>
Subject: Re: The Musical Rover

On Tue, 19 Sep 1995, Doug Carmean wrote:

>   "For what is essentially nothing more than a hollow tree branch, the 
>   didjeridu produces an awesome and primal sound.  At first listen, 
>   you'd swear you were hearing a synthesizer, so complex are the 
>   instrument's low, sonorous drone and writhing overtones."

Sounds like a Landrover on the highway!

==========================================================
                                      ()  (  )      ()
Tony Yates                           (  ) (   )    (  )
Bureau of Meteorology               (    )(    ) (      )
Port Hedland                       (       )   )(        )
Western Australia                 (          ) ) --------
                                   ------------
ph:  (091) 401 350                 \\\**\\**\
fax: (091) 401 100                   \***\*\
                                       \\*\
email: A.Yates@bom.gov.au                \\

==========================================================

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Sep 1995 20:45:08 -0400
From: bbonner@mail.htp.com (Brian Bonner)
Subject: Re: rollbars and hardtops

>To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net
>I recently saw a white behemoth 110 Defender running around my town,
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 11 lines)]
>It was damned UGLY, though... of course, what progeny of a Series Rover
>isn't?
I actually like the D110's. I think they look great! Too bad they don't make
them anymore. VERY limited production.
                     
Brian Bonner                    ++++++==\
'94 Red D90                     |---/|---\___
                                | _  |D90|_  |}
                         * * * ==(_)"""""(_)""

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Sep 1995 20:45:06 -0400
From: bbonner@mail.htp.com (Brian Bonner)
Subject: Re: Here's the skinny...

>Actually, in a vehicle like a Series Landy or Defender, if you're moving
>fast enough, there isn't anything in the world that'll keep you alive in the
>event of a rollover. Highway speeds are the nemesis of vehicles without
>integral roof rollbars.

Whats wrong with the D90 Roll bar? It actually goes to the frame.
                     
Brian Bonner                    ++++++==\
'94 Red D90                     |---/|---\___
                                | _  |D90|_  |}
                         * * * ==(_)"""""(_)""

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Sep 1995 21:30:20 -0500 (EST)
From: Duncan Brown <DB@CHO004.CHO.GE.COM>
Subject: Been all (rolled) over in my Rover

All,
    Of course: Your Fatality Statistics May Vary; Don't Try This At
    Home; Not Recommended For Children Under 103; etc.

    Sand Toler was returning from a BRLRC meet near Lynchburg a couple
    of years ago, driving his late SIII (immaculate, of course!)  A
    tractor trailer struck him from the rear at a *closing* speed of
    about 45MPH.  His vehicle was pushed from the road into a gulley,
    where it rolled several times.  Sand was belted in, his dog Scotch
    was not.

    Both occupants survived without a scratch.  The Rover was missing
    much of its rear glass.  The windshield was shattered, the bulkhead
    was buckled, the roof was mashed, and the fenders were battered. 
    Needless to say he was shaken up.  This was in the early hours of
    the morning, and he secured some other ride home.  A day or two
    later he came back to retrieve his vehicle.  He had to do a little
    tying-down of loose pieces with string, but that was it.  He fired
    it up and drove it a couple of hours home.

    I took quite a few pictures of the vehicle, and it is obvious that
    the windshield/bulkhead structure acted much like you'd want a
    rollbar to.  The brunt of the force was transmitted there (thus the
    buckling of the bulkhead, with the windshield hinges as fulcrum
    points.)  Again, please don't make your life depend on this
    accidental feature, but it's nice to know it can happen.

    Sand couldn't stand to have his pride and joy less than perfect,so
    he sold the vehicle to Henry Marshall.  Henry put a new (used)
    bulkhead in, replaced the rear box, and put on a soft top set that I
    donated to him.  (He's since found another hard top for it.)  He's
    been driving it ever since.  The drivetrain was completely
    undamaged.

    I hate to see anyone get run off the road by an 18 wheeler.  But if
    they are, I sure hope they're in a Land Rover, rollbar or not.  I
    doubt seriously if your average Isuzu Trooper owner would have
    walked away from that accident, much less *driven* away from it!! 
    Land Rover really is "the vehicle that always gets you home at the
    end of the day"!

    Duncan

------------------------------

From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date: 19 Sep 95 21:30:08 EDT
Subject: Re: The Musical Rover

On Tue, 19 Sep 1995, Doug Carmean wrote:

>>   "For what is essentially nothing more than a hollow tree branch, the 
>>   didjeridu produces an awesome and primal sound.  At first listen, 
>>   you'd swear you were hearing a synthesizer, so complex are the 
>>   instrument's low, sonorous drone and writhing overtones."

Then Tony Cameron wrote:

>Sounds like a Landrover on the highway!

Yes, but the overdrive is essential....adds that grinding overtone.

BTW, anybody still got that article on quieting overdrives
that went by recently? it occurs to me that mine may have the
aforementioned problem...

    aj"loud stereo needed"r

------------------------------

Date: 19 Sep 95 21:47:22 EDT
From: "William L. Leacock" <75473.3572@compuserve.com>
Subject: Recent digests

Alan Richter  Your brake problem is a classic 109 front cyl air situation.
By clampimg the rear you increase the flow to the front giving the apparent
improvement
 the bleed nipples on the front cylinders are on the horizontal  centre line,
thus enabling air to be trapped above the centre line.
 There are several methods of bleeding front 109 cylinders, the most extreme
being to put the vehicle on its side, some people remove the back plate and put
it on its side 
 The simplest way is to 
1 Remove the wheel and drum. fit a pipe over the screw into a container to
collect oil, back of both adjusters 
2 prevent the rear shoe from moving by placing a screwdriver accross the face of
the shoe and under the backplate lip
3 Ask an associate to gently press on the pedal until the front shoe is pushed
out, maintain the pedal position
4 open the bottom bleed screw and push in the front shoe, close the bleed screw
5 repeat 3 and 4 a couple of times.
6 top up the fluid ( do not re use the fluid it is now aereated.
prevent the front shoe from moving and press the pedal to move the rear shoe.
7 maintain the pedal position and open the bottom bleed screw
8 push the rear shoe in, close the bleed screw.
9 repeat 7and 8 a couple of times and replenish the fluid.
10 do the other side
11 adjust the shoe adjusters.

Another common 109 problem is the incorrect fitting of rear shoes, careful
examination of a set of shoes will show that there are differences between the
leading and trailing shoes. You will observe that the distance from the edge of
the lining to the cylider end of the shoe is different, closer observation wil
also reveal that the adjuster peg is in a differrent position.
 the correct orientation ( if my memory serves me right )is for the shoe with
the shortest distance from the lining to the cylinder end of the shoe is the
leading shoe. This can be verified by looking closely at the snail cam positions
on the back plate.
 When I bought my 109 the rear shoes had been fitted by a Rover "specialist" two
leading shoes at one side and 2 trailing shoes at the other.

 Findind TDC, using a rod to find tdc on the high piont is inacurate since there
is effectively a small dwell at tdc on the top of the piston.
 A more accurate method is to mark the rod say .25" before tdc,mark the pulley
against a ref point, then turn past tdc to find the mark on the descent, mark
the pulley against the same reference point and  then split the difference. This
technique is similar to the technique which is used to find the centre of the
camshaft when valve timing except a dial gauge is used in this instance.

 Rick Crider-- transfer box lower plate sealing.
 After removal of the transfer box plate it is a good idea to flatten the plate
before refitting, generally around the fixing holes the area tends to be bowed
by the overtightening of the screws to seal the gasket. My suggestion is to
invert the plate on an anvil ( or a piece of solid stel ) place the ball pien of
say a 3/4 lb hammer over the fixing hole and strike thehammer face with a larger
hammer, this will flatten the plate in the area of the fixing screws and ensure
the prospect of a good seal on re fitting.

 Regards    Bill Leacock   Limey in exile

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Sep 1995 19:06:57 -0700
From: jhong@haiku.com (John Hong)
Subject: land of falling coconuts...

Well Folks,

I am moving back to Hawaii!  I'd appreciate hearing from any other Hawaiian 
rover owners.  (808 593-3782 email stays the same - jhong@haiku.com)
If y'awl want to trade postcards - send me one at POB 2122, Honolulu, HI, 
96805 and I'll send one back - let me know if you want a scantily-clad 
person on yours! <wink>  Gimme a call if you are in town! (Honolulu)

I also just got my first issue of Six Stud, "The official newletter of the 
101 Forward Control Club and Register"  Nice job! Great mix of tech talk, 
event coverage, off roading in the UK and that Brit humor!  I "is proud to 
be a member" even though I got no 101!

Any 101 lurkers out there?

John "oh man, jet lag to the UK is really going to suck now" Hong

'73 88" red

John Hong      Haiku Systems    Notes Business Partner
Consultant    jhong@haiku.com      408-249-8340

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Sep 1995 19:37:54 -0700
From: Roger Sinasohn <sinasohn@crl.com>
Subject: Re: Aluminum Workhorse

> I had the  oppertunity to attend the  LROA meeting Saturday the  18.
> They need your help.

I'll second the call for help.  What we need is people with experience at 
management, organization, and people-handling.  Most of the key people in the 
club right now are stepping down, and we need replacements pronto.  

Some of the issues we're facing right now are:

Organization of the club
Should we incorporate?
Liability issues
building a network of Regional Coordinators
Future of the Aluminum Workhorse
questions of conflict of interest
How do we handle officers not physically close to each other?
Club events and Social meetings

I'm sure there are others, but you get the idea.  

As I wrote to someone else:
I feel this will be like LROA's puberty -- changing from an child (informal 
club) to a young adult (organized club).  Someday, the club may even make it 
to adulthood (service oriented not-for-profit business).  Right now, though, 
we'll be faced with all the pains associated with puberty.  But if we can 
make it through this, I think we'll be okay.

So if you love Land Rovers, and want a national club, speak up now!  (for the 
money-where-your-mouth-is types, I've volunteered to help with the membership 
and treasury.)

---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Uncle Roger                         "There is pleasure pure in being mad
sinasohn@crl.com                                that none but madmen know."
Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
San Francisco, California

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Sep 1995 19:38:07 -0700
From: Roger Sinasohn <sinasohn@crl.com>
Subject: Re: Aluminum Workhorse

>       LROA is the best chance for an American national club.  AW is the 
>       newsletter of LROA.  Correct?  AW is mostly Brad Blevins I believe.
>       The LROA organisational side of things are a few other people.

Right.

>       if you add up the memberships of the five big regional clubs in
>       North America, they have a larger total membership than LROA.  

But the idea is not to compete.  All the clubs should work together for 
(pardon the sappiness) the good of all LRO's.

>       Looking down themembership rolls (from the latest AW), LROA is a
>       massive Western USA based club, with a fine newsletter, but 

Right now, the membership is heavily biased towards the west.  I don't know 
the details, but this seems due partially to a bad reputation on the east 
coast because of one person being less than honest.  (I've only heard this, 
dunno anymore, don't care to.)  

In any case, that's one of the issues that needs to be resolved.  

>       problems that befell the Association of Land Rover Owners
        of Canada (ALROC).  ALROC functioned quite well when the
        Executive and newsletter (production etc) were all located
        in one geographical area.  Over time, when you had a President
        on one side of the country, a vice-president on the other, etc.
>       it became very difficult to co-ordinate and control evertything.
[...]
>       with it)  LROA will have to bear these lessons in mind if
>       it wants to be a club with individuals as members...

Exactly!  That's another major issue that needs to be dealt with:  How to 
handle a geographically diverse executive group.  Perhaps the internet offers 
a solution that wasn't available to ALROC.  Perhaps other clubs that have 
solved this problem could be of assistance.  (Hmmm...  I think the national 
button society is spread out.  I'll check.)

>       So long as AW comes out regularily and on time things will be
>       fine. 
[...]
>       I'm confused.  What are the growing 
>       pains that the newsletter/AW is experiencing?

Yes and no.  Sure, Getting AW is worth the price of membership, but the club 
could be a lot more.  And several of the executives are steppiung down.

>       Take an existing one and modify it, but there are other questions
>       that need to be answered first.

Good idea.  LROA may be hitting you guys (OVLR) up for answers soon.  

>       Is LROA to be an association of existing clubs, or to be a massive
>       club in its own right?

A good question, and one of the ones that needs to be answered.

>       What has provoked this?  LROA seemed to be running fine, then a 
>       sudden meeting, and now this.  You seek solutions, yet there is
>       little on what is underlying these problems.  To help adequately,
>       an understanding of the problems is required.

Several of the executives (for whatever reason) are stepping down.  
Membership, Treasurer, President are all opening up.  Secretary was already 
open.  Brad can't afford to donate his time for the AW anymore either.  So 
pretty much everything is needed.  (There are also some personality conflicts 
going on which don't need to be gone into in public.)

I've agreed to handle membership and treasurer for the time being.  So that's 
out of the way.  But we still need to figure out where the club is going. 

---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Uncle Roger                         "There is pleasure pure in being mad
sinasohn@crl.com                                that none but madmen know."
Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
San Francisco, California

------------------------------

From: LANDROVER@delphi.com
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 1995 02:18:53 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Free Wheeling Hubs

Leigh Batten asks....
 
>      On my recently purchased Series IIa, I have a set of Free Wheeling 
>      Hubs.  Being new to Rovering, I'm not entirely sure what these do and
>      for that matter what I should do with them.  They are 'locked' at the
>      moment but would appreciate any advice and details.
/

In stock form, your IIa would have had hub drive members on the front which
are identical to the ones on the back wheels. Take a look at one of the back
wheels. You will see six bolts holding a piece on the hub. That piece is the
drive member. The axel shaft is splined where it attaches to the drive
member and transmits motion to the drive member which transmits the motion
to the hub which transmits motion to the wheel. In other words, they all
rotate together. This is a good thing on the rear wheels, being primarily a
rear-wheel drive vehicle and all.

When you are in four-wheel drive, the front axels cause the front wheels to
rotate... but.... when you are in two-wheel drive the axels are not being
powered. Instead, the front wheels cause the front axels (and diff and
driveshaft) to rotate.

Which brings us to the purpose of Free Wheeling Hubs.

The concept is to disengage the front hubs from the front axels, saving wear
and tear on all the mechanism and possibly improving fuel mileage and
preformance since the Rover no longer needs to make all that mechanical
stuff spin around.   

You'll probably hear a lot of opinions on to free-wheel or not to
free-wheel. Basically, the arguement deals with lubrication. The swivel
balls on your Rover relay on 90Wt oil being splashed around (by the axel &
u-joints) to lubricate things. If you have your hubs dis-engaged, there is
nothing spinning in the swivel balls and nothing being lubricated. Some
people say the hubs don't improve anything. I think this is something you
will have to decide. If you don't use your Rover much where you need four
wheel drive, you can unlock the hubs, but periodically you should lock them
- just to splash the oil around a bit. You should NEVER run with one hub
locked and one unlocked.  

>      Also seeing as I'm going to be asking some fairly silly questions
>      Hubs.  Being new to Rovering, I'm not entirely sure what these do and
/

That's OK.. We all know how to make up silly answers... :)

>      where I can find a FAQ on Land Rover questions ?
/

I believe they are on one of the WEB sites. There should have been some info
on the message you got from majordomo when you subscribed (I think). Someone
will probably know exactly where to look.

Cheers
  Michael Loiodice       E-MAIL   landrover@delphi.com              
  166 W.Fulton St.       VOICE    (518) 725-1859                    
  Gloversville                                                      
  NY, 12078     -USA-    1965 Ser IIa 88 Petrol ("Sidney")      
              7          1972 Ser III 88 Petrol ("Fern")
           #:-}>         1971 Ser IIa 88 Petrol (Parts is Parts)

------------------------------

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