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Subject: Re: County LWB Winches and other ?'s
Date: Sun, 17 Sep 95 10:57:41 -0500
From: Gary Mitchelson <garym@cais.cais.com>

-- [ From: Gary Mitchelson * EMC.Ver #2.5.02 ] --

-------- REPLY, Original message follows --------
 

> One last comment, I've had some real trouble with the Charleston, SC
dealer
> service dept (pretty poor work). I'm I alone?

I just had my Discovery in for a minor leak at 4000 miles and I had also
asked them to align the steering wheel so that it was straight. Well the
wheel was still slightly off but I was just going to wait until the 7500 mi
service, no big deal.

The following week I got a call from LRNA inquiring on my satisfaction with
the warranty service and I told them everything was fine except the wheel
was still off center but that it was no big deal and I would wait.

Well, the following day I get a call from the Dealer's service manager who
said that they would come to my office, drop off a rental car and pick up
the LR to make sure it is fixed right!

So if you have not gotten a call from LRNA I suggest you call them.
--
Gary Mitchelson                     
garym@racalrecord.com                                
N3JPU

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 17 Sep 1995 11:45:15 -0400
From: w1eox@ix.netcom.com (Yves Feder)
Subject: My how times have changed!!!!!!

 
  
>jpappa01@interserv.com advertises:
> >1994 NAS D90/AA YELLOW/28K MILES/truly *NEVER* off-road/totally
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 11 lines)]
>'95 ROM chipset?  Did LR change the programming for '95?  If so, what
>changes were made? (*NEVER* off-road? What a waste!)
 

My my, how times have changed..... I haven't had any advisories regarding the 
ROM chipset in my 1963 IIA 109" 3/4 ton.

On the other hand it would be cool to retrofit a flash bios and full ISDN link 
(via satcom/GPS of course) into the Series LR dash for automatic downloading of 
the latest revisions from Rovah - whilst in motion of course - one would
sense the
changes in the engine RPM and gearing enroute without scarcely having to
remove one's
pith helmet or put down the glass of gin or the cellphone.....

but first, remember to doubleclutch into 2nd geah....

Yves A. (Al "Al") Feder
w1eox@ix.netcom.com
Home of "Tiny Radio Theatre"(tm) AND
Eric, the Mad Megalomaniac Bull Cavy

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 17 Sep 1995 09:13:36 -0700
From: jjbpears@ix.netcom.com (Jeremy Bartlett)
Subject: Re: 109 Rancho Shocks #?

You wrote: 

snip
>     I just found the sales slip for them,  (dated 8/14/87), what I ordered
>and bought where #5117 Rear and #5119 front.  
snip
>     Again, I would say, If you got the recommendation from an actual Rancho
>rep., go with that.
>Later,
>Reed

Just got a post from Nick Baggarly (109 owner).  Apparently, according to 
Rancho, the 5119 and 5117 are now obsolete and no longer available.  So, I'm 
still trying to track down an appropriate shock part.  I'll post on the results.
Thanks for the information.

cheers,

Jeremy

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 17 Sep 1995 11:12:07 -0600 (MDT)
From: Rob Bailey <baileyr@cuug.ab.ca>
Subject: Re: Timing Marks

>A cheaper way would be to set it to TDC via the flywheel marks, then
>mark your pully at TDC and then file a groove in it.

>Tom Rowe

>Then Bob said,  
>Yes but he said he has no rear timing mark to refer to.
>Or can't find it. If it's a later engine there wont be the hole to see the
>flywheel.

>Bob B

>True, but if he doesn't have access to the flywheel, his pully should 
>have the groove in it.

>Tom Rowe

I haven't had time to look at the flywheel closer to see if it does in 
fact have a TDC mark, if it does, it must be very faint. If it doesn't it 
could be that I have an old style pulley on a new style engine, because I 
can't see any access cover for the flywheel at all. If it turns out to be 
there, I have no idea how I would get it off and see inside it!!

>Tom.  The following should help you get the tdc point on your IIA. Remove 
>the number one plug and if you have a crank, get a partner to turn it. 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
>straw is as high as it can get.  You will know this because the straw 
>will begin to go back down if you go too far. 

This is almost too scary... I actually used a drinking straw to find TDC 
last week. I couldn't think of anything better to use, and I remembered 
the straws in the kitchen cupboard... I expect that the timing is set 
quite close to optimum, but I would like to check. It doesn't ping right 
now, but it is kind of hard to hear anything over the other LR noises, 
especially with noisy tires. I will try and look for the mark, and then 
experiment with advancing the timing until pinging occurs, then back it 
off a hair...

Thanks everybody...
Rob

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 17 Sep 1995 11:27:02 -0600 (MDT)
From: Rob Bailey <baileyr@cuug.ab.ca>
Subject: Re: Topping up brakes?

>If it had DOT3, you wouldn't have brakes. DOT 4 and 5 are intermix
>compatible, but you lose the advantages of the silicone fluid.

>Personally, I'd assume you have DOT4 and add fluid accordingly.

My parts source here in town is a British mechanic and a LRO, he says to 
use a good quality DOT3. I've been using a brand that guarantees that it 
won't cause rubber to swell, and have had no problems. I just recently 
found a cheap source for the Castrol GT LMA brake fluid, and may start 
using that, although everything I have read indicates J1703 spec for LR 
brake fluid, and my DOT3 conforms to that spec as well (as do most, if 
not all). From other LRO's I have talked to, they indicate that DOT4 
doesn't guarantee that rubber swelling will not occur, so I personally 
cannot totally believe statements like "DOT3 BAD - DOT4 GOOD". 

Just my observations,
Rob

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 17 Sep 95 22:18 EET
From: gshroder@aztec.co.za (Gary Schroeder)
Subject: LR Lighting

Hi, folks.

Which way round are the indicators & parking(marker?) lights supposed to be?
Indicators top or bottom? It seems that Defenders (should) have the
indicators at the bottom. Does this apply to all models - Series beasts too?

Waiting to be enlightened,
---
Gary Schroeder        E-mail: gshroder@aztec.co.za
52 Plattekloof Rd     Voice : +27 21 58-4305 
Monte Vista           Fax   : +27 21 658-2182
7460                  1985 Ser IIIS 109 S/W
Cape Town             "Humphree" - to go where I like!
Republic of South Africa
---          

------------------------------

From: William Terry <wterry@sartre.minerva.bah.com>
Subject: Re: 3.5 v8 hop-up goodies
Date: Sun, 17 Sep 1995 17:12:53 -0400 (EDT)

TVR has been using the Rover V8 for a while, and as a high performance 
sports car company, they've become quite good at getting power out; some 
300+ bhp lately. I believe that there is a screw type supercharger by 
Sprintex for it. Try looking for performance stuff aimed at TVRs. 

TVR has also played with the Essex V6 engine including turbocharging it. 
There are triple Weber intake manifolds for this. Don't know what this 
would do on a Landy. I had a TVR 3000M. The Essex engine is nice.

______________W__i__l__l__i__a__m_____D__a__n_____T__e__r__r__y______________
  How do we acquire wisdom along with all these shiny things? (David Brin)

  wterry@sartre.minerva.bah.com
  http://glenfiddich.minerva.bah.com:8062/CyberJungle.html
  MINERVA Development Team, Booz, Allen & Hamilton

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 17 Sep 1995 14:00:52 -0700
From: johnliu@earthlink.net (John Y. Liu)
Subject: Fixing Front Hub Seal; What Else Should Do?

Rover's rightward tilt upon braking gradually worsened to the point where
not even a world-class rationaliser as myself could attribute it to
mal-adjustment or perhaps a reflection of current U.S. political thought.
So, this afternoon off comes the brake drum and, as feared, we find
grime-encrusted cylinders, slick greasy brake shoes and, somewhere at the
center of it all, copious grey goop issuing from the junction of brake
anchor plate and front hub.

Well, Rover has soldiered on under my command for four or so years now with
no attention whatsoever to the front axle, excepting occasional fill-ups of
the swivel housing of course, so it's about time to attend to that
particular organ system.  And since I spent this morning reviewing the
family tax situation, I can confirm that this particular repair will have to
be done at the most local of service garages -- the one downstairs, as a
matter of fact.

The question, put to you all, is: what should I do?

We have noted gradually increasing swivel pin wobble (defined as in-and-out
play when the front end is jacked up and the top of the tire is grasped and
shook), accompanied by the end for increasingly frequent oil fill-ups of the
swivel housing.  Otherwise nothing untoward has been apparent in the front
axle, although -- not being the keenest observer -- I'm not sure I'd have
noted anything short of that axle suddenly going missing.  The swivel balls
are nicely smooth and shiny, the wheels turn freely without noticeable
binding, four-wheel drive is as advertised, and so on.  But my philosophy
is, first, that working on the Rover is grimy enough business that I will at
all costs avoid repeatedly ploughing the same ground, and, second, that a
complete overhaul that may be trusted for the future is preferable to
innumerable band-aid patches.  (Congress, are you listening?)  Put another
way, I'd would like to do everything that wants doing all at once and not
have to mess with the front axle again for a long time.

So what do folks suggest I tackle besides bilateral swivel pins and/or
bushes, the necessary oil seals, and new brake shoes?  Conversion to Railko
type bushes?  Some or all bearings? (How does one tell is a bearing has evil
in its heart?)  Attention to the half-shafts or their universal joints?
Gaiters? (I seem to recall every discussion of gaiters in the abstract turns
up a 50-50 split between proponents and detractors.  If I advise that the
expected use over the next year includes a fair bit of mud and sand, does
that change the advice?)

I'll be grateful for any advice.  Since the Rover is my daily driver, I plan
to start ordering parts right away and will probably do the job ths coming
weekend or the next.
 
John Y. Liu
johnliu@earthlink.net

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 17 Sep 1995 17:18:42 -0500
From: ahyoon@students.wisc.edu (The Colonel)
Subject: Charleston, SC Dealer

In response to John Wendt's question about his dealer.....Call LR North
America!!!  I assure you that, if you have been mistreated by the dealer,
punishment will be forthcoming from NA Headquarters.......Dealing with
Carousel Motors of Minneapolis, MN was truly a pleasure.....Anyway, LRNA
seems to care about the customer...They called us to make sure that the
dealer had done everything right.....right down to filling the tank up....

Arnold Yoon
University of Wisconsin - Madison
E-Mail: ahyoon@students.wisc.edu
Voice: (608) 259-9936

"Aerodynamics are for people who don't
        know how to build engines."
                - Enzo Ferrari

GO DISCO!!!
1995 Land Rover Discovery
"Four Wheel Drive Exemplified"

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Sep 1995 09:42:14 +0930
From: Tiffany Downing <tiffanyd@tafe.sa.edu.au>
Subject: Re: What exactly IS double-clutching, anyhow?

At 10:58 AM 14/09/95 EDT, you wrote:
>To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net
>I must be doing it as I haven't destroyed my gearbox, but the exact
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)]
>my old age... (no smart remarks...<grin>)
>     Alan

Doubling the clutch is usually used to change down gears eg third to second
in a non syncro gearbox like ours (and I hate it!!!!).  When driving along
you press down the clutch pedal and put the car in neutral, you then press
the accelerator pedal (which is the tricky bit, how much do you rev the
vehicle), you then finish by pressing down the clutch pedal again and
changing into your selected gear.  All this is usually done very quickly.
As I said before the tricky bit is knowing how much to rev the vehicle.
With practice you can hear the rev's and know how much is enough (or so my
husband says  :-) When you get it right it just slides into gear otherwise
there is a nice crunching sound to let you know that you stuffed up yet again!!

You don't have to double the clutch you can just wait until the vehicle has
really slowed right down before selecting second or waiting a second in
neutral before selecting second (this one works for me!).

Hope this helps!!!

Regards

Tiffany Downing

********************************************
Co-ordinator, International Student Programs
TAFE South Australia, AUSTRALIA
Phone:   (61 8) 226 3202
Fax:     (61 8) 226 3655
E-Mail:  tiffanyd@tafe.sa.edu.au
********************************************

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 17 Sep 1995 21:03:57 -0400 (EDT)
From: Rick Grant <rgrant@synapse.net>
Subject: Re: Fluids

> If a PO put in DoT 4 (typical 
>American petroleum-based fluids), the seals are shot and a TOTAL rebuild is 
>necessary PDQ.  So if everything is good, (well OK - maybe passable) it's 
>most likely LMA.>

Thanks Sandy.
        I'm deeply suspicious about what's in there now.  The reservoir
level is down about an inch with no obvious cause so I'm going to proceed
accordingly with a complete system teardown and rebuild.  I don't mind
screwing around with half assed repairs on subsystems but when it comes to a
primary like brakes then I'm going to be as thorough as I can.  
        I appreciate your recomendations and tips and I like the idea of
silicone.

                                                        Rick Grant

rgrant@synapse.net
Ottawa, Ontario, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 17 Sep 1995 20:30:50 -0500 (CDT)
From: David Place <dplace@SIRNet.mb.ca>
Subject: second E-Mail access D. Place VE4PN

subscribe

------------------------------

From: jpappa01@interserv.com
Date: Sun, 17 Sep 95 19:48:42 PDT
Subject: Re: British Invasion V

Just back tonight from Stowe. It was a great success with a record turnout - 
about 480 British Vehicles!! Close to 30 Land Rovers in the 2-class lineup - 
series and post-series. Some nice vehicles on hand including a totally 
*remanufactured* 109 that was *trailered* (!!) from Illinois. Yikes!

I must give special kudos to my tireless wife *shotgun* who actually piloted 
the F/C to the event - a 6-hour stint in the 2.25 Diesel!! She was able to 
cart off a 2nd Place in the Series class. Thanks to Chris Francis and Mike 
Gaetano for *finally* splitting the Land Rovers into two classes. If the 
vehicle turnout keeps growing like it has been - we can hope to split the 
classes further...

There was a good turnout of BSROA members/trucks as well as a strong OVLR 
showing along with their *amazing* club trailer. This thing is a tour de force 
of built-in convenience/communications/chuckwagon! Nice job!

Any negatives? BSROA/OVLR again participated in the Merrill-Lynch *Bull Pull* 
tug-o-war competition and ended up splitting second prize... If we had lost 
fairly it would have been just eat more *mini-wheats* for next year... But, 
the first start was blown and there wasn't a restart. The rope was slipping 
through our hands before we could even get a good grip! And, we were *UPHILL* 
- really dumb. We had a second pull where the sides were switched. Rovers won 
this round. Instead of a tie-breaker or a prize split, the Bull pitted USA vs. 
Canada! This under protest from many! Canada wins. USA on uphill side. 
Conclusion: any team on the uphill side lost. No proper starter. No callers. 
No team member count. Very haphazard. Last year much better organized. We'll 
make sure next year is properly officiated. 

A good turnout nonetheless and plenty of war stories and ale to go around!

cheerz
Jim - now dreaming in beluga black and alpine white!

`67 2A 88 5.0L hybrid
`67 2A 109 5.0L hybrid
`68 2B 110 F/C Diesel
`70 P6B 3500S
`90 Range Rover County
`93 D110 (#457/500)
`85 D90 #1958

------------------------------

From: JFisk1120@aol.com
Date: Sun, 17 Sep 1995 23:33:20 -0400
Subject: Re:  Radial Rover Tires

For those of you in search of a serious off-road tire, I might recommend the
"Radial Rover" by Dunlop.  These tires (31x 10.50R15LT) offer more meat
off-road than most similar tires without the accompaning highway noise or
unstable ride.  This is basically a very big light truck tire.  One important
ground clearance note I should make is that this tire raised my Landy with
15" tires to the same height as that of the one with 16" tires.  That
measurement is from the hub center to ground.  I realize that this will mess
up my speedo etc., however, I think the performance will outway the
inaccuracy to the little used guages.

Last week Jan was coming down a rocky hillside and got a large gash in her
tire so this was the perfect occasion to buy new tires for her Rover and
since it was her birthday, what was a guy to do?  I guess she didn't mind
since today, she put them through the test,  I have never seen a woman so
excited about a mud pit!!   I have a feeling this is going to make Christmas
and anniversary easy!

J. Howard Fisk
Springfield, Missouri
1964 LR 88"    1970 LR 109"   1972 LR 88"   1991 RR    1993 LWB RR

                            *********************
                            *       *      *  ****** *
                          *         *      *  *     * *
                        *           *      *  ****** *      By J. Barrett
Fisk
        ***************************************           2nd Grade
        *    ******    *                  *   ****  *
        *   *        *  *                  *  *     * *
        *   *        *  ****************   *     * *      
              ******                           ****

------------------------------

From: Kelly Minnick <minnick@joker.chinalake.navy.mil>
Subject: 4.0 RR
Date: Sun, 17 Sep 95 21:24:08 PDT

During one of the evaluations, the same thing happened to the test RR.  I'd
have to look up the article for you.  Don't know if it was LRO , or a
domestic magazine...
Kelly Minick  '73 88" Safari & '91 RR
Ridgecrest, CA

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Sep 1995 1:12:33 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Stuart H. Moore-Roanoke College" <SMOORE@ACC.ROANOKE.EDU>
Subject: Swivel Balls,brake fluid etc.

Hello again:

     I have two questions and one piece of information for Rover
owners out there.

     Question 1: Has anyone ever heard of putting "cup" grease in
the swivel balls on a series front axle.  I'm talking about grease
such as that pumped through a grease gun.  The reason I ask is that
I have a 1983 Toyota pickup (I know...it leaves a bad taste in my
mouth to say it as well...good truck though) that has similiar
swivel balls (Carden joints) in the front and according to the book
you just pump them full and drive.  The truck has 115k miles and
lots of off road use and the joints are in excellent shape.  My
rover has some rust pits in the swivel balls and doesn't hold 90w
grease very well (very well is in land rover terms that is).

     Question 2: Since I have rebuilt both the clutch slave and
master cylinders and also all four wheel cylinders and brake master
cylinder in my rover should I use Dot 4, Girling labeled, or
sylicon brake fluid in them?  Now is the time to venture into
sylicon use if I'm ever going too.  I have heard some list talk on
this subject, but never really saw a concensus of opinion.

Thanks in advance for any help with these questions...hope they
aren't foolish and over answered already.

     Last thing:  A young man in Lynchburg, Virginia has a '59
Series II 88" for sale.  It is basically a parts vehicle although
he doesn't know it.  The frame is seriously trashed...no rear
crossmember at all...basically it isn't fixeable for anything
reasonably.  It is pretty much complete.  Has a safari top which is
rather bent, interior is complete but rough, mechanicals are there
(axles, 16" wheels, brakes, tranny, transfer, motor).  Motor runs
pretty well, no noticeable smoke and sounds tight.  Most body
panels are crunched.  He is asking $1000 for it (I won't give an
opinion here).  If anyone would like some more info mail me direct
and I'll scrounge up the phone number.  It is in the Auto trader
magazine for the Roanoke-Lynchburg area under classics.  Just
thought I would pass this on in hopes it would help somone on the
net.

Thanks!

                                             Happily reassembling
                                             my rover!

                                             Stuart Moore
                                             Roanoke College
                                             Salem, Virginia

                                             '61 series II 88"
                                             '59 MGA roadster
                                             '68 MGB-GT
                                             '74 MGB roadster

p.s. I'm still eagerly looking for a used overdrive, a right front
fender (no vent), and a set of front leaf springs...thanks for any
help.  Happy rovering!

------------------------------

From: "Richard" <rziegler@maple.sover.net>
Date:          Mon, 18 Sep 1995 03:00:14 -0500
Subject:       Re: 109  spongy pedal

Alan Richer has to hit his brake pedal 2X before getting braking 
action on his 109.  I suspect air in the hydraulic system if all is 
well with the seals (proper brake fluid has been used).  My 
procedure for bleeding the brakes at this point would be to block 
off, via clamps, 2 of the flex hoses.  With an assistant at the 
pedal, have him/her rapidly pump the pedal a number of times, then 
while pressure is applied to the pedal open the bleed screw at the 
wheel not clamped off.  On the rear axle this will have to be done 
twice.  After fluid and hopefully air exits the open bleed screw, close it 
off and then have assistant take foot off of pedal and let it return to up 
position.  Follow this procedure for all wheels and more than once 
may be necessary per wheel (especially the front ones).  Don't let 
master cylinder suck air - keep fluid in the reservoir.
     By the way Alan, Bruce's last name is spelled McEnaney.  Good 
try though.  Feel free to contact me via e-mail direct if you need 
further help.
Happy Rovering,
Rich Ziegler, L/R mechanic   '63 88 pet. (in pieces) '74 88 SIII HT 
pet. daily driver
     

------------------------------

  END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST 
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