[ First Message Last | Table of Contents | <- Digest -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
| msg | Sender | lines | Subject |
| 1 | Andrew Birrell [pdandrew | 17 | SIIA Diesel exhaust |
| 2 | "Tom Rowe" [TROWE@AE.AGE | 25 | Re: Rover tire sightings |
| 3 | BobandSueB@aol.com | 25 | timing marks |
| 4 | Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus [A | 23 | Re: Spongy pedal - OK when the rear is clamped off? |
| 5 | "Tom Rowe" [TROWE@AE.AGE | 19 | Re: timing marks |
| 6 | jewendt@intelinet.net (J | 18 | County LWB Winches and other ?'s |
| 7 | Rick Grant [rgrant@synap | 20 | Topping up brakes? |
| 8 | Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus [A | 12 | Re: Topping up brakes? |
| 9 | Sanna@aol.com | 22 | Re: Ducellier distributor |
| 10 | RICKCRIDER@aol.com | 24 | Which Gasket Sealant? |
| 11 | David John Place [umplac | 45 | Re: timing marks |
| 12 | David John Place [umplac | 19 | Re: Which Gasket Sealant? |
Date: Sat, 16 Sep 1995 16:32:57 +0200 (GMT+0200) From: Andrew Birrell <pdandrew@iaccess.za> Subject: SIIA Diesel exhaust Hi All Have been lurking for a few weeks, and gleaning some useful information. I have a SIIA 2.25 Diesel 109 SW. The vehicle has worked quite hard (had a trans-africa safari two years ago). At startup there is a lot of white smoke when the accelerator is used. Does this indicate that the pump timing should be attended to? I'm told that that the vehicle (known as green mamba) is also giving off black smoke once warmed up, so I guess I'll have to have the injectors overhauled. I'd appreciate any information on the above Andrew Birrell ------------------------------[ <- Message 2 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950917 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU> Date: Sat, 16 Sep 1995 10:37:09 GMT -0600 Subject: Re: Rover tire sightings Snip > sticks and stones for being an interloper, the Toyota did come with > four, brand new, "Land Rover" tires. Size LT255/70-16; probably too wide > for any proper Rover but actually 2 sizes smaller than the Toyota OEM > (275/70). Snip . I have no idea who makes these tires; Snip > -Dimitry > dimitry@Eng.sun.com > for any proper Rover but actually 2 sizes smaller than the Toyota OEM I used to have a chart that would identify the mfg. based on the tire serial number. Alas, I've lost it. Does anyone on the list have such a thing? Tom Rowe UW-Madison Center For Dairy Research Babcock Hall | Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck Madison, WI | in places even more inaccessible ------------------------------[ <- Message 3 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950917 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: BobandSueB@aol.com Date: Sat, 16 Sep 1995 12:49:43 -0400 Subject: timing marks Tom Rowe said, >>Bob B replies: >>Snip >> You should get a pulley for newer engine that has the notch such as >>1969 >> then you can time it fine. Snip >A cheaper way would be to set it to TDC via the flywheel marks, then >mark your pully at TDC and then file a groove in it. >Tom Rowe Then Bob said, Yes but he said he has no rear timing mark to refer to. Or can't find it. If it's a later engine there wont be the hole to see the flywheel. Bob B ------------------------------[ <- Message 4 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950917 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com> Date: 15 Sep 95 21:38:41 EDT Subject: Re: Spongy pedal - OK when the rear is clamped off? I will check the things you describe. The flexes are new, so that I very much doubt. I haven't had the cylinders apart yet, but they look almost new. Bruce MacInerney at DAP is trying to tell me I need new drums. I ordered them, but I have my doubts... the problem is that nobody around here is set up to measure a drum that big... I am beginning to hate this car. this is not good. Anybody want to buy a very nice 109 with an overdrive? No joke...8*( aj"Very depressed"r ------------------------------[ <- Message 5 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950917 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU> Date: Sat, 16 Sep 1995 15:51:26 GMT -0600 Subject: Re: timing marks > >A cheaper way would be to set it to TDC via the flywheel marks, then > >mark your pully at TDC and then file a groove in it. [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)] > Or can't find it. If it's a later engine there wont be the hole to see the > flywheel. True, but if he doesn't have access to the flywheel, his pully should have the groove in it. Tom Rowe UW-Madison Center For Dairy Research Babcock Hall | Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck Madison, WI | in places even more inaccessible ------------------------------[ <- Message 6 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950917 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: jewendt@intelinet.net (John E. Wendt) Subject: County LWB Winches and other ?'s Date: Sat, 16 Sep 95 18:55:01 -0100 (EDT) Hello out there! I am a recent subscriber and recent owner of a beautiful black 95 County LWB. I actually bought a Toyota Land Cruiser thing but then finally came to my senses and bought a real machine (returned the TOY). Anyway, I have a couple of questions. First, does anyone know of any good places in the SC, GA area to test out this beast? Second, I'm looking for a winch (just in the slim chance that this monster gets in over its head). Does any one have any suggestions? One last comment, I've had some real trouble with the Charleston, SC dealer service dept (pretty poor work). I'm I alone? JE ------------------------------[ <- Message 7 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950917 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sat, 16 Sep 1995 18:55:51 -0400 (EDT)
From: Rick Grant <rgrant@synapse.net>
Subject: Topping up brakes?
I have to bleed the brakes on my recently acquired 59 SII and that of course
will mean adding more fluid. The trouble is I have no idea what kind of
brake fluid is in it now. Can I put in the manufacturer recommended type
without being sure that it will match what's in there now?
If I were to replace all of the fluid in the system would it be necessary to
purge the lines?
I'd never dream of mixing hydraulic fluids in an aircraft but perhaps
vehicles are different.
Rick Grant
rgrant@synapse.net
Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
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]From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com> Date: 16 Sep 95 20:10:39 EDT Subject: Re: Topping up brakes? If it had DOT3, you wouldn't have brakes. DOT 4 and 5 are intermix compatible, but you lose the advantages of the silicone fluid. Personally, I'd assume you have DOT4 and add fluid accordingly. Done too much of this lately... -ajr ------------------------------[ <- Message 9 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950917 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Sanna@aol.com Date: Sat, 16 Sep 1995 22:26:56 -0400 Subject: Re: Ducellier distributor > the rotor shaft could be moved back and forth on the shaft. The problem at least in my IIA is the slot the drive sits in which is like a thick washer with a matching slot does not capture the drive well enough. >Has anyone else noticed that the drive and slot don't really make a very positive connection? That "thick washer with a matching slot" is an almost inconsequential part that can cause big problems. Replace it! It's cheap. Continual driving with that "thick washer with a matching slot" will set set off vibrations at highway speeds that can shake your dist apart. My worst breakdown with Lulubelle was because of that worn "thick washer with a matching slot". It shook the centrifical weights loose wich literally cut my dist in half. Had to pick eggs and care for 60,000 Iowan chickens for a week's room & board while waiting for parts. Haven't been to the Col's since. Tony ------------------------------[ <- Message 10 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950917 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: RICKCRIDER@aol.com Date: Sat, 16 Sep 1995 22:38:05 -0400 Subject: Which Gasket Sealant? Hello all. Next oil change (Slll / 88") I'm gonna pull the oil pan for thorough cleaning, painting and new gasket. Also gonna drain, clean and regasket the transfer case. Would like some success stories on making the machine as 'drip proof' as possible. I've used Permatex brand 'Aviation Gasket Sealer' (the thick brown gooey one with the small brush built onto the cap). Also I've used the Permatex brand 'Blue' and 'Copper' versions....both of which are the rubbery silicone caulk type sealers. Used all at various times on my Alfas with decent success. I only want to do this once, (at least for a long while). What are some of you LRO tech types finding the most success with? Cordially: Rick Crider KD4FXA <rickcrider@aol.com> Monroe NC ' 66 Slla 109" (Hugo) ..........for sale to good home..... ' 73 Slll 88" (Jesse) .......one of the family........ ' 88 Range Rover ------------------------------[ <- Message 11 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950917 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sat, 16 Sep 1995 22:17:14 -0500 (CDT) From: David John Place <umplace@cc.UManitoba.CA> Subject: Re: timing marks Tom. The following should help you get the tdc point on your IIA. Remove the number one plug and if you have a crank, get a partner to turn it. Put your finger over the plug hole and crank the engine till you start to feel pressure on your finger. Now place a drinking straw or something that won't scratch the cyl. wall in the hole and turn the crank till the straw is as high as it can get. You will know this because the straw will begin to go back down if you go too far. At the very point the straw reaches the highest it can go, you are at top dead centre. Mark the pulley with chalk. Put the plug back in and start the engine. With a timing light look for your chalk mark. It should be very close to the pointer. I know I will get a bit of flack from the professionals here, but at this point I hope the mark is a little advanced from the pointer. If it is, say the mark is about 1" in front of the pointer you are probably where it should be but to make sure take it for a drive and see if under load it pings. If it does, just retard the timing, ie. move the distrib. enough to bring the chalk mark closer to the pointer. If it doesn't ping and the engine sounds like it has power and runs smoothly, file a mark in line with the pointer and drive for a while and see if it performs the way you want. Despite what the books say, I am convinced that every type of gas has its own performance curve and to set an engine to 2 or 3 degrees off TDC based on a magical formula isn't the way to tune an engine. Slight changes in chain stretch, contour of the cam lobes, lobe deformity in the dist. will all change the way your engine will perform with a particular timing. Mine for example is now running like a factory new engine and I found my problem was the imprecise fit of the dist. drive cam to the oil pump shaft. By tightening this and running advanced, I now have an engine with no misses at any RPM and I am running with good power, no pings and best of all I am back to the Solex which I was convinced lacked the ability to through-put enough petrol to give me a full power curve. I used the Rochester for a few years trying to make up for my bad tuning. The time I had the engine running like this before was when I used a degree wheel to set everything but you can't use a degree wheel once the engine is in the frame with the radiator on. With a degree wheel you can set an engine the way professional race prep mechanics set an engine and it really shows. Every valve opens at the right degree of rotation and the dist. is right on the money sending power to the spark plug at just the right instant. But who has time to do all this. We use the TDC pointer system to approximate what a degree wheel does right. I hope we can get some opinions from the technical types out there. Dave VE4PN ------------------------------[ <- Message 12 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950917 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sat, 16 Sep 1995 22:34:00 -0500 (CDT) From: David John Place <umplace@cc.UManitoba.CA> Subject: Re: Which Gasket Sealant? I like the aviation gasket stuff but recently I have started using the hight temperature red silicone used for marine engine rebuilds and some industrial applications. The trick is not to get too excited and put the pan back on with it still wet. The silicone should be just rubbery enough to have your nail leave an imprint in it. That way you get a true gasket formed and not just a slime layer. Before you put the pan back on, put a straight edge on the pan and see if the PO over tightened the bolts and now you have valley areas between the bolt holes. If you have, take a ball pien hammer and beat them flat. This is the most likely reason our Rover pans leak. Then when you put it back on don't use the 5/8 socket wrench with a bar. Just snug up the bolts going around like the head is cross tightened and you shouldn't have any leakes. Mine is dry after 3000 miles since I had it off. Now if only I could get the front bull nose seal to do its job! Dave VE4PN ------------------------------[ <- Message 13 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950917 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
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