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The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

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msgSender linesSubject
1 RICKCRIDER@aol.com 30Canvas Treatment Decision and Results
2 Mr Ian Stuart [Ian.Stuar35 Re: Public Stupidity (Was: Environ. Abuse (Was: Rover Abuse))
3 L.Batten@lse.ac.uk 55New LR owner
4 "GAWIE VAN BLERK" [A484621 Avon Rangemaster ???
5 Easton Trevor [TEASTON@D13Guide to Purchase and restoration
6 "Tom Rowe" [TROWE@AE.AGE29 Re: Bearings
7 "Tom Rowe" [TROWE@AE.AGE21 Re: Oil: Rebates & Shelf Life
8 "Tom Rowe" [TROWE@AE.AGE73 bleeding brakes, cleaning carbs
9 Lloyd Allison [lloyd@cs.13mud racing
10 haystack@netspace.net.au27Sleep in a Range Rover ?
11 "GAWIE VAN BLERK" [A484628 Re: Avon rangemasters
12 hlapa@Zeus.signalcorp.co17Re: cleaning carbs
13 Rob Bailey [baileyr@cuug16RE: Haynes Guide
14 PDoncaster@aol.com 20Green Oil Pressure Light IIA
15 rvirzi@gte.com (Robert A31Discovery oil changes
16 Rob Bailey [baileyr@cuug21Timing Marks?
17 Sanna@aol.com 14Re: My first Land Rover
18 Andrew Grafton [A.J.Graf44Green Oil Pressure Light IIA
19 Dixon Kenner [dkenner@em15Re: My first Land Rover
20 DEBROWN@SRP.GOV 88Re: '87 RR misc. problems
21 Alan Richer [Alan_Richer11What exactly IS double-clutching, anyhow?
22 "John R. Benham" [BENHAM43 Carawagon For Sale!
23 "Wharton, Skip" [wharton34Personal Responsibility - LRO Style
24 BwanaE@aol.com 29Re: Left Coast list
25 Trefor Delve [delve1t@ne57RE: Personal Responsibility - LRO Style
26 sreddock@VNET.IBM.COM 33V6s
27 Duncan Brown [DB@CHO004.20Oil pressure drop
28 growl@hsmpk14a-101.Eng.S20Re: Green Oil Pressure Light IIA
29 growl@hsmpk14a-101.Eng.S12Re: Timing Marks?
30 "TeriAnn Wakeman" [twak54Re: New LR owner
31 gawie@pixie.co.za (Gawie16Paint Codes for SIII/ Stage 1
32 burns@lint.cisco.com (Ru18RE: Personal Responsibility - LRO Style
33 David John Place [umplac10Re: Timing Marks?
34 David John Place [umplac12Re: Green Oil Pressure Light IIA
35 Tony@hawtec.demon.co.uk 86Auxiliary Tanks (II/IIA/III)
36 steve gross [sgross@enet16RE: Electric seat controls
37 DEBROWN@SRP.GOV 35RE: Electric seat controls
38 JEPurnell@aol.com 3390 Rusty Bratwursts in Wisconsin???
39 JEPurnell@aol.com 37Re: Rusty D90 in Wisconsin
40 "Paul M. Brodie usssbkp60D90 for sale
41 bbonner@mail.htp.com (Br15Re: Discovery oil filter update
42 bbonner@mail.htp.com (Br12Re: Rover tire sightings
43 DEBROWN@SRP.GOV 32I have *NO* patience!! RR seat switch $86.10 (US)
44 "Bobeck, David R." [dbob18Registration.
45 Robert Watson (CNA) [a-r14So it begins...
46 Lloyd Allison [lloyd@cs.10RR wiring diagrams
47 rnewell@dircon.co.uk (Ru10Rear springs adjustment on SIII LWB
48 jimmyp@netcom.com (Jimmy19bleeding
49 ecoethic@rcinet.com 30Re: Personal Freedom
50 Duncan Brown [DB@CHO004.26Re: So it begins...
51 Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus [A15Spongy pedal - OK when the rear is clamped off?
52 jjbpears@ix.netcom.com (18109 Shock Measurements Needed
53 Benjamin Allan Smith [be31[not specified]
54 jjbpears@ix.netcom.com (31Quick and Easy LR dating ?
55 LANDROVER@delphi.com 16Re: When IS Stowe, anyway?
56 LANDROVER@delphi.com 29Re: What exactly IS double-clutching, an
57 "John C. White III" [jcw18Re: So it begins...
58 Tony@hawtec.demon.co.uk 27RE: Green Oil Pressure Light IIA
59 Tony@hawtec.demon.co.uk 29RE: Rear Hub Oil Seals


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From: RICKCRIDER@aol.com
Date: Thu, 14 Sep 1995 03:49:00 -0400
Subject: Canvas Treatment Decision and Results

Morning all........
Thanks to all who responded about the canvas top coloring and treatment.    A
trip to the local  'Been There Forever and Has It All'   hardware store
revealed a product called 'Clear Shield'........made specifically for
canvas.....tents, awnings,  parkas,  etc.......(It did 'smell' very much like
Thompsons Water Seal.....which I've used extensively on house restoration
projects.)
Clear it is and very much so.    With some experimenting I found that generic
*oil base* flat black paint dissolves and mixes very well with the product.
   A couple of ounces of flat black added to the quart can of Clear Shield
and I had my colorant and sealer in one.   Applied a *liberal* coating with a
high quality china bristle stain and varnish brush.  IT WORKED ABSOLUTELY
WONDERFULLY.   Left only the slightest hint of brush marks.   I believe a
second coat brushed in the opposite direction will finish off the job just
perfectly.   Took about a half quart for the first application.....it really
soaked it up.   Second coat shouldn't take quite as much.
Type to ya'll later.
Rick Crider  KD4FXA
Monroe  NC
' 66  Slla  109"     (Hugo)        .............and, sigh,  still for sale to
good home......
' 73  Slll    88"      (Jesse)
' 88  Range Rover..........'just the daily driver'..........
....and......still.......more Alfas than my wife thinks I should have

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From: Mr Ian Stuart <Ian.Stuart@ed.ac.uk>
Date:          Thu, 14 Sep 1995 09:10:10 +0000
Subject:       Re: Public Stupidity (Was: Environ. Abuse (Was: Rover Abuse))

On 13 Sep 95, Dixon Kenner wrote:

> To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net

>> 14 Yo girl falls off beach side cliff @ ~2am following drinking bing
>> [snip] sues council and Parks and Wildlife on a duty of care basis. 
>  How about 14 year old boy gets into city gravel quary with friends
>  Gov't won on appeal.

1) Local council are sick of having their windows broken by the local kids, 
so they replace them with a perspex-derivative. Kid lobs a half-brick at 
the window, which fails to break & bounces the brick back -- hitting the 
kid on the head. Parents sue council for not warning people that the 
windows would not break -- AND WON!!

2) School trip to Eurodisney: 3 kids a caught shoplifting on day 1 and flung 
out. Upon return to UK, parents demand a refund as their kids didn't get 
to go to Eurodisney (result unknown, but the cynic in me reckons that the 
school caved in)

3)
The kid who is suspected of burning down one of the area's primary schools 
is the son of the chief fire marshal
The kid who was caught selling drugs is the son of the local police chief
The kid who was caught breaking school windows is the son of a glazier

     ----** Ian Stuart (Computing Officer)        +44 31 650 6205
Royal (Dick) School of Veterinary Studies, Edinburgh University. 
 <http://www.vet.ed.ac.uk/> or <http://www.tardis.ed.ac.uk/~kiz/>

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From: L.Batten@lse.ac.uk
Date: Thu, 14 Sep 95 10:26:41 GMT
Subject: New LR owner

     Dear All,
     
     Well I finally did it, after several months/years of looking, I 
     finally went out and bought a Land Rover.  I am now the proud owner of 
     a 1966 Series IIa.
     
     It's in fairly good condition, but does need some work to get it into 
     decent shape.  I've only had the beast for a few days and I'm slowly 
     drawing up a list of things to do to improve her.  I've come across a 
     few things that due to my lack of knowledge I can't seem to find an 
     answer and I'm posting this message hoping that the combined wisdom of 
     the list will help me achieve my goals !
     
     Well here goes :
     
     1) I'm 6' 4" and find that the seating is way too close to drive in 
     comfort (& safety!).  The only half way decent solution is to remove 
     the back of the seat and rest my back on the metal support !  This is 
     by no means comfortable.  Does anyone know if the whole seating 
     arrangement can be moved back approx. 6 inches ? or are there any 
     ideas/suggestions to help save my back !
     
     2) There always seems to be a smell of petrol when I'm inside, there's 
     a second fuel tank under the passenger seat (no longer used), could 
     the fumes be coming from there ?  Or is this just a trait with Land 
     Rovers ? 
     
     3) Finally, are the rubber door seals easy to get hold of and to 
     replace ?  I get soaked everytime it rains !  Living in the UK this is 
     a very common thing.
     
     Well that's it for now.  I'm sure there will be others questions along 
     the way.  Sorry if I've asked any 'dumb' questions, but I've never 
     owned or known anyone who owns a LR so I'm kinda in the dark.
     
     Thanks in advance
     
     Leigh
  
     ----------------------------------------------------------------------
     
     Leigh Batten
     London School of Economics              E-mail - L.BATTEN@LSE.AC.UK
     Room A240                               Tel:   - 0171-955-6714
     Houghton Street
     London                                  Mobile - 0378-134-660
     WC2A 2AE                                
                             1966 IIa SWB (Janie)
     ----------------------------------------------------------------------

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From: "GAWIE VAN BLERK" <A48462@bfnnfs01.eskom.co.za>
Date:          Thu, 14 Sep 1995 13:33:57 GMT+200
Subject:       Avon Rangemaster ???

Hi All

Yes I am still deciding what tires to get. Can anybody tell me more 
about the Avon Rangemaster 7.50R16 ??? (This is for a 110 Hardtop).

Tanks and Good day.

Gawie
Gawie van Blerk
---------------------------------------------------------------
Internet : A48462@bfnnfs01.eskom.co.za (work)
         : gawie@pixie.co.za (home)
URL      : http://www.pix.za/0/business/bloemfontein/gawie.html
Tel      : 27+51+404-2421
---------------------------------------------------------------

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From: Easton Trevor <TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA>
Subject: Guide to Purchase and restoration
Date: Thu, 14 Sep 95 07:39:00 DST

The guide to purchase and diy restoration is available in the US from 
Classic Motorbooks at 1 800 826 6600 fax 1 715 294 4448. at $34.95 The item 
number for this book is 117252AE. Their catalogue has an extensive list of 
automotive books etc.

Usual disclaimers
Trevor Easton 

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From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date:          Thu, 14 Sep 1995 06:51:01 GMT -0600
Subject:       Re: Bearings

>  Greg Brown <brow7767@mstr.hgc.edu> writes:
> Hello all, it has been a while since I have written.  Well I am going to 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
> swival balls.  Well enough desciption.  Does anyone have the aftermarket 
> part numbers for the front and rear bearings for a Series IIa 88.

 Pull out the old ones and take them into a bearing shop. They'll give you 
the replacements. I bought some diff bearings based on numbers I got from a 
list in a Land Rover newsletter about 13 years ago. It turned out they didn't 
fit the diff I wanted to put them in. Apparently somewhere along the way some 
of the bearing sizes got changed, or the numbers in the list were wrong. I've 
always checked the number on the bearing I want to replace ever since.

Mind you, I'm *not* implying that the web list has errors, I haven't looked 
at it.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

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From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date:          Thu, 14 Sep 1995 06:44:08 GMT -0600
Subject:       Re: Oil: Rebates & Shelf Life

Hank Writes:
Snip
> Have experienced dino-oil going bad with age on the shelf.  

Hank,
What were the symptoms of it going bad? Have I missed something all these 
years? I'v quite often keep oil on hand for a long time.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

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From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date:          Thu, 14 Sep 1995 07:06:11 GMT -0600
Subject:       bleeding brakes, cleaning carbs

-Michael Carradine writes:
>  An article in the AB or RN newsletter a while back pointed out that
>  the older Series models should not be jacked up to bleed the brakes.
>  Apparently this traps air in the rear (?) brake cylinders.
Hmmm. This contradicts the shop manual for the CB type master 
cylinder. Did they make any reference to that?

TeriAnn writes:
snip
>to bleed your tyre so as not to blow the E-Z bleed's seals, or you can find a 
>garage that does power bleeding and bring some DOT 4 with you.  I'm doing more 
>of the latter lately.  You can generally get a lot of power bleeds done for 
you 
Snip

TeriAnn,
You actually are comfortable that the garage is getting the other 
nasty brake fluid out of their unit before bleeding your system?

I made my own bleeder for CB systems that seems to work. I got an old 
pressure cooker, drilled a hole in the center and installed a fitting that 
allows a brake pipe to be attached to the inside and outside. The 
inside one is about 6" long and fits into a can of fluid. The other 
goes to an old brake canister cap. I installed a air fitting in the 
lid of the pressure cooker, set my compressor regulator to 
just a few  pounds and pumped it up.
It's a little messy, but the only pressure bleeders I could find at 
the time were around $100US.

Jimmy,
I've also had good luck with backing off the adjusters all the way, 
bleeding, and then readjusting them to the proper setting. Others on 
this list will contradict that , I believe, but it's worked for me. 
Hell, if you're desperate try it both ways.
Also, did you say you replaced your flex lines? They tend to swell 
internally with age and so when you press your pedal you are 
compressing the walls of the flex lines instead of your brake shoes.

You should be able to isolate the problem by clamping all of your brake 
lines. If you do that and your pedal is like a rock, you know it isn't 
air in the MC. Release the clamps one at a time and test.
I made clamps with three pairs of small needle nose Vice Grips, 
grinding the jaws round so as not to damage the brake lines. You don't 
need to clamp them hard to get the lines to seal, fairly light pressure will 
do.
Good luck.

David Place writes:
Snip
> On another point.  I have never tried this but my mechanic friend who 
> worked for a carb rebuilding shop says if you don't have carb cleaner to 
> soak your carb in use vinegar.  It might be a bit more eco conscious than 
> the strong agents we normally use.  I suspect it would need more time to 
> work but it should do the trick.  Dave VE4PN
For those who have access to one, I had great success, back when I was 
doing a lot of Solex carbs, using an ultrasonic cleaner. I'd take the 
carb apart, take it into work and trot on down to the lab. If they 
weren't using it they were quite accomadating in letting me use their 
cleaner. The carbs usually came out quite nice looking.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

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Date: Thu, 14 Sep 1995 22:32:53 +1000
From: Lloyd Allison <lloyd@cs.monash.edu.au>
Subject: mud racing

Does anyone know about mud-racing in the USA ?  esp' internet resources.

I take it this is racing more or less continually in mud as opposed to racing
which happens to involve mud from time to time, and that it differs (?) from
swamp racing [that I've seen on TV] which seems to involve hydro-foil "boats"
propelled by large V8s driving tractor tyres.

 sorry,   Lloyd

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Date: Thu, 14 Sep 1995 22:36:01 +1000
From: haystack@netspace.net.au (Doug McPherson)
Subject: Sleep in a Range Rover ?

Hi all.

I was just wondering how long the back end of a Range Rover is, between the
back of the front seats and the tail gate.

Basically, could a 6 footer like me sleep in the back comfortably ?
Two people ? With or without modifications. (Modifications to the RR, not me !)

Anyone ever done a camper conversion on an RR ?

If you remember, I was looking for a 110 a couple of days ago. I still am,
but RRs are much more prevalent here. Much the same price too, if not
cheaper.

The main role of the truck will be travelling to far away places with my
significant other (Sharon), then walking !

I've slept in a 109 and that was OK. But no one I know has an RR.

Thanks in advance for any info.

Doug.

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From: "GAWIE VAN BLERK" <A48462@bfnnfs01.eskom.co.za>
Date:          Thu, 14 Sep 1995 14:54:09 GMT+200
Subject:       Re: Avon rangemasters

Hi Andrew

> Sorry to be negative - I just never heard anything positive!

No problem - better safe than sorry.

I just found that they were the cheapest available tyres down here - 
The normal SAG's we use on LR's has got some problem and they must 
import a new mould before the can start making them again. Seems like 
it is back to Micheln XZY's. About 1.5x the price of the rest, but I 
think it will be worth it.

Greetings

Gawie 
Gawie van Blerk
---------------------------------------------------------------
Internet : A48462@bfnnfs01.eskom.co.za (work)
         : gawie@pixie.co.za (home)
URL      : http://www.pix.za/0/business/bloemfontein/gawie.html
Tel      : 27+51+404-2421
---------------------------------------------------------------

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From: hlapa@Zeus.signalcorp.com
Date: Thu, 14 Sep 95 08:58:49 EST
Subject: Re: cleaning carbs

Just remember that carb cleaner is a solvent -- it dissolves the crud, not the 
metal.  Vinegar is acid, it attacks both.  You can use vinegar (or other acidic 
cleaners, but don't leave your parts in there "forever" soaking.  

Hank
> Subject: bleeding brakes, cleaning carbs
> Author:  "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU> at Zeus

	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 86 lines)]
>  Four wheel drive allows you to get
>  stuck in places even more inaccessible.

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Date: Thu, 14 Sep 1995 07:12:30 -0600 (MDT)
From: Rob Bailey <baileyr@cuug.ab.ca>
Subject: RE: Haynes Guide

I believe that this is a book offered by Classic Motorbooks. They have an 
800 number, but I can't remember it right now, call 1-800-555-1212 for 
directory assistance. 

Rob

>Is the Haynes "Guide to Purchase & DIY Restoration: Land Rover Series I,II
>&III" book available in the U.S.? I tried to order it through the college
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
>Ah, college life, when all will be karmically perfect should there be a
>Series III.

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From: PDoncaster@aol.com
Date: Thu, 14 Sep 1995 09:18:19 -0400
Subject: Green Oil Pressure Light IIA

Hi,

Thanks for all the replys to my yesterdays questions, they were very helpful.

Question  for today:

Is it normal for the green oil perssure light to go ON when I come to a quick
stop? (quick for a lro) The pressure gage, likewise, drops, then pressure
returns within a few seconds. I've topped up the oil which helps, but even
topped-up, it still happens. Is this unusual or do I have a problem?

Peter Doncaster
New Orleans, USA
'64 IIA 88"  

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Date: Thu, 14 Sep 1995 09:41:06 -0400
From: rvirzi@gte.com (Robert A. Virzi)
Subject: Discovery oil changes

In a recent digest, John Friedman wrote:

"I bought a Rubber Maid 16 inch high tub to modify as an oil changing
and gush resistant Discovery tool and will report after the next
change."

I found a nifty device at a local Kmart that worked exceptionally well for
me.  It's a plastic oil change pan.  It is shaped liked a large (~14"
diameter) squat cylinder with a spout coming out the cylinder wall. (Sort
of like the letter Q.)  The neat feature is that it has two openings.  The
spout has a cap, of course.  One side of the cylinder is a large,
hubcap-like cover that screws onto the rest of the pan.  Take this off and
let the oil pour into the wide opening.

When I did the change, I put the truck up on ramps on a hill, so that the
body was pretty close to level.  I did NOT remove the oil filler cover
before emptying the oil, and except for what splashed because my hand was
in the way, I didn't spill a drop.  You might want to look for one of these
pans because (a) it was cheap and (b) it has some nice features like a
screen to catch the plug if you drop it and a spout to make it easier to
pour it in your local trout stream.  (JUST KIDDING!)

-Bob

  rvirzi@gte.com             Think Globally. ===
  +1(617)466-2881                            === Act Locally!

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Date: Thu, 14 Sep 1995 07:49:43 -0600 (MDT)
From: Rob Bailey <baileyr@cuug.ab.ca>
Subject: Timing Marks?

I was trying to set the timing on my 63 88" 2.25L petrol and can't find the 
timing marks. As I understand it, it should either have a timing tab on the 
front cover or an access panel for the flywheel. Well, I can't see an 
access panel, and it does have a timing tab (that doesn't quite look like 
the one in my manual, it only has two tabs on it TDC, -3'?) but the front 
pulley doesn't have any noticable TDC mark! I tried to find TDC with the 
piston, but how accurate can that be?. I'm gonna try to determine where 
it is with the valves, but I doubt that I can set it very accurately 
without a proper mark. I suspect that the timing is a little too 
advanced, as the engine overheats slightly at high revs. 

Anybody have a better method of finding an accurate way to find and mark 
TDC? 

Thanks,
Rob

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From: Sanna@aol.com
Date: Thu, 14 Sep 1995 10:32:52 -0400
Subject: Re: My first Land Rover 

> Also, I'm having trouble with my insurance co., they consider my Rover
"high risk"

Time to do some shopping.  A good independent agent should help.  I've been
insuring Lullubelle for 25 years now, and have never paid more than $600/yr
(full liability & collision w/$100 deduct, and 100% comprehensive & glass).

Tony

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From: Andrew Grafton <A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk>
Subject: Green Oil Pressure Light IIA
Date: Thu, 14 Sep 95 15:31:09 BST

> Question  for today:
 
> Is it normal for the green oil perssure light to go ON when I come to a quick
 stop? (quick for a lro) The pressure gage, likewise, drops, then pressure
> returns within a few seconds. I've topped up the oil which helps, but even
 topped-up, it still happens. Is this unusual or do I have a problem?

One of our 2286 diesel 109"s does the exact same thing.  Oil pressure is
fine on the gauge, but during a fast stop the light flicks on for just
a second or two.  If you tilt the nose down more than about 50 degrees
(not percent) in a hole then the green light comes on and stays on.
Pressure drops right down (but not to zero) on the gauge.

The light on the (newer) diesel will come on but only very briefly - 
you have to decelerate as fast as possible from 60-0 to get it to do
it.  No pressure gauge, tho'.  Haven't put the nose at a silly 
angle (intentionally or otherwise) yet to check.

The pressure light on my (previous) SIII 2286 petrol used to come on 
frequently when coming to a stop, as it did on a friend's IIA.

All the above vehicles were topped up with oil correctly, and the engines
are/were sweet (except the IIA which had a clattery head).
The oil pumps checked OK for wear according to the workshop manuals
last time we had 'em apart.

I'd be interested if anyone knows why this happens...
{I know - lack of oil pressure!!  but...  why?!  Insufficient oil in
the bottom of the sump?)

Could this be the reason for the baffle plates in the sump?
Maybe a different baffle arrangement lets the oil pump run dry 
for a bit?

All the best,

Andy
A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk

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Date: Thu, 14 Sep 1995 11:06:15 -0400 (EDT)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.emr.ca>
Subject: Re: My first Land Rover 

On Thu, 14 Sep 1995 Sanna@aol.com wrote:

> Time to do some shopping.  A good independent agent should help.  I've been
> insuring Lullubelle for 25 years now, and have never paid more than $600/yr
> (full liability & collision w/$100 deduct, and 100% comprehensive & glass).

	Best I ever did with the 109 was in Quebec (State auto insurance 
	manditory & then extra required for above their limits).  Forget what
	the Provincial cut was, but the private stuff cost $29/yr three
	years ago.  

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Date: Thu, 14 Sep 95 08:11:12 MST
From: DEBROWN@SRP.GOV
Subject: Re: '87 RR misc. problems

FROM:  David Brown                           Internet: debrown@srp.gov
       Computer Graphics Specialist * Mapping Services & Engr Graphics
       PAB219 (602)236-3544 -  Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486
SUBJECT: Re: '87 RR misc. problems
From: matts@cacilj.caciasl.com (Matt Snyder)
**************** An excellent ascii drawing ******************

I think I may be able to help you there, as I successfully got the seat into
an acceptable position using jumper wires.  It takes two wires, because both
hot and ground must be connected.

>From memory, the plugs that connect to the bottom of the switch look
something like this:

   +--------+   My drawing may not be accurate, but I show two vertical blades,
   |        |   two round pins, and two horizontal blades.  One of the plugs
   | |    | |   has both round pins, but the other plug has only one round pin.
   | |    | |   If I remember correctly, the round pin present on both plugs
   |        |   is hot, while the round pin present on only one plug is ground.
   |  o  o  |
   |        |   Be default, none of the blades is connected to anything.  When
   |   ---  |   you move a button, one blade is supposed to go to ground, and
   |        |   another blade is supposed to go to hot.  I was able to
   |   ---  |   determine the correct blades to hotwire using my multimeter
   |        |   on the working driver's side switch.
   +--------+
                If you think about it, this behavior makes sense, because it's
the same motor that makes the seat go both forward and backward, the only
difference is the polarity.

In summary, a working hotwire might look something like this in principal:

   +--------+                     +--------+
   |        |                     |        |
   | |    | |                     | |    | |
   | |    | |                    ___|    | |
   |        |                   /          |
   |  o  o___                   \____o     |
   |         \                             |
   |   ---  | \                   |   ---  |
   |        | /                   |        |
   |   ---___/                    |   ---  |
   |                              |        |
   +--------+                     +--------+

I'm sorry I don't have more specifics, but for me the breakthrough was
realizing that two connections are required, so maybe that will help you.

-Matt
******************** End of Mat's message. *******************
Mat, Great news!!! Your drawing was *very* helpful! Only thing to change is,
When connecting the two leads, one end of each of the two jumpers goes on
the large plug-in's as you've indicated, The other ends work as a pair to
connect each of the smaller "pairs" of plugs. Let's see if I can illustrate:

   +--------+                     +--------+
   |        |                     |        |    { Each "pair" of smaller
   | |    | |                     | |    | |  {{{ contacts controls a different
   | |    | |                     | |    | |    { seat function.
   |        |                     |        |     |
   |  o  o_______      ______________o     |     |
   |        |    \    /                    |     /
   |   ---_______/   /            |   ---  |    /
   |        |       /             |        | {{{
   |   ---_________/              |   ---  |
   |        |                     |        |
   +--------+                     +--------+

As you stated, reversing the two jumpers reversed the direction of the motor.

Thanks!!! Now I only have to replace one switch... I got the passenger seat
into a "comfortable" position now, so don't need to adjust it. (at least not
often, anyway.) Maybe I can use parts from the pass. seat switch to fix
the drivers seat. Typical Rover workings, eh?

Many thanks, and I hope this helps others as well. Maybe a FAQ file addition?
And speaking of FAQ files, is there one for Range Rovers?

#=======#                Never doubt that a small group of individuals
|__|__|__\___            can change the world... indeed, it's the only
| _|  |   |_ |}          thing that ever has.
"(_)""""""(_)"                                          -Margaret Mead

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From: Alan Richer <Alan_Richer.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date: 14 Sep 95 10:58:39 EDT
Subject: What exactly IS double-clutching, anyhow?

I must be doing it as I haven't destroyed my gearbox, but the exact
process and practice escapes me. I must be getting dumb in
my old age... (no smart remarks...<grin>)

     Alan

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From: "John R. Benham" <BENHAM@WFOCLAN.USBM.GOV>
Date:          Thu, 14 Sep 1995 08:24:34 +1100
Subject:       Carawagon For Sale!

Dear LRO's,

    An acquaintance of mine is selling his Carawagon.  Below are the 
particulars:

    - 1966 Carawagon
    - 109 IIA
    - RHD
    - 2.25L Petro
    - Bronze Green
    - Velour Uphostery in great condition
    - Bull Bar
    - Cibie Lights, 3 sets
    - Two sets of tyres:
        - Dunlops for highway
        - All Terrain/mud for off-road
    - Overdrive
    - Locking Hubs
    - Sound System
    - Body Straight
    - Oddometer: 130,000 miles

ASKING: $13,000., obo

Talk with Bob Lanktree in Phoeniz, Arizona, USA at (602) 931-8890

Good luck!

John R. Benham - Editor
Spokane, WA  USA                 `The Rover Runner'
                                      ______
                                     |______\_____
1968 88 IIA Marine Blue      *---   [|_/-\____/-\_|}
  The `BWANA' Mobile           *---    (O)    (O)        

                   "Read!  Read!  Read!  Anything and everything.
                              Taste will come later..."

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Date: Thu, 14 Sep 95 11:52:55 EST
From: "Wharton, Skip" <wharton@mail.scra.org>
Subject: Personal Responsibility - LRO Style

  
       
       Reading with interest notes from around the world referring to sue-ers - 
       seems like the lawyers have taken over the universe...
       
       I'm reminded of the little old lady recently who pulled into a McDonalds 
       drive-thru and dropped a cup of steaming coffee into her lap, thus 
       enabling her to sue McD's for umpty-squat millions of dollars.
       
       Think about your average LRO who, upon discovering the same coffee in his 
       lap, would utter a short, barking epithet such as "Oh, Darn", or "Blimey, 
       my crotch is on fire", and would eject himself from his vehicle with the 
       speed of a scalded-ass ape.  Then, upon seeing spilled coffee by the side 
       of the Rover, would wonder NOW what fluid is she leaking? and would crawl 
       underneath only to burn his hand on the manifold, thus allowing him to 
       forget the crotch pain.
       
       He would then drive home to bandage his hand and to check again for the 
       leak he failed to find - leaving his coffee and his opportunity to enrich 
       himself forgotten at the fast-food drive-thru, but incredibly happy to 
       have a reason to putter and tinker.
       
       No wonder we're all so poor, but invariably happy with our lives!
       
       Regards,
       
       Skip Wharton
       From the Holy City of Charleston, SC, USA
       '72 Series IIA

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From: BwanaE@aol.com
Date: Thu, 14 Sep 1995 12:22:16 -0400
Subject: Re: Left Coast list

AOL recently changed it's e-mail software to allow transfering attached files
(pix, sounds, graphics, etc) to documents sent over the net. This is a
laudable goal, but the bad news is that their program does not differentiate
between actual attached files, and a simply lenghty (> 25k) text document
such as the digests for the 'Left coast list' .

Anything >25k is now compressed with a MIME utility and when you receive your
e-mail, it is sent directly to your hard drive. Now to read the digests, you
must uncompress the file using a MIME utility (available from AOL's library),
minimize the AOL application, use File Manager to locate the file on your
disc, open, read, close, delete, and then return to AOL for the rest of your
mail... what a pain !!

I've spoken 3 time with AOL's tech support people, and the concensus seems to
be "live with it" until their next software update... no date given. 

Brad, hope this answers your question... now for a possible fix :

Hey Ben ... any chance that your program for the digest can be modified to
break up the digest into "page 1 of 4" , "page 2 of 4" etc. with no page
exceeding say 20k ? This will bypass this problem for all of us AOL weenies.

Eric.

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From: Trefor Delve <delve1t@nectech.co.uk>
Subject: RE: Personal Responsibility - LRO Style
Date: Thu, 14 Sep 95 17:29:00 GMT

Skip,

Good thought.

Also an LRO upon detecting any warmth (at all)  would also probably eject 
himself from the landrover thinking that something has caught fire on the 
grounds that is not possible to be warm in a landrover in the first place.

Trefor
tdelve@nectech.co.uk

 ----------
       Reading with interest notes from around the world referring to 
sue-ers
 -
       seems like the lawyers have taken over the universe...

       I'm reminded of the little old lady recently who pulled into a
McDonalds
       drive-thru and dropped a cup of steaming coffee into her lap, thus
       enabling her to sue McD's for umpty-squat millions of dollars.

       Think about your average LRO who, upon discovering the same coffee in
his
       lap, would utter a short, barking epithet such as "Oh, Darn", or
"Blimey,
       my crotch is on fire", and would eject himself from his vehicle with
the
       speed of a scalded-ass ape.  Then, upon seeing spilled coffee by the
side
       of the Rover, would wonder NOW what fluid is she leaking? and would
crawl
       underneath only to burn his hand on the manifold, thus allowing him 
to
       forget the crotch pain.

       He would then drive home to bandage his hand and to check again for
the
       leak he failed to find - leaving his coffee and his opportunity to
enrich
       himself forgotten at the fast-food drive-thru, but incredibly happy 
to
       have a reason to putter and tinker.

       No wonder we're all so poor, but invariably happy with our lives!

       Regards,

       Skip Wharton
       From the Holy City of Charleston, SC, USA
       '72 Series IIA

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From: sreddock@VNET.IBM.COM
Date: Thu, 14 Sep 95 17:06:36 BST
Subject: V6s

Hi there, I am fairly certain that the 2.9 Ford V6 is a development of
the Cologne, but I have never seen one.  This would suggest that they would
fit in place of a 2.8l, also having the same siamesed exhaust ports.

I have know idea at all about the 4.0 cologne, it is logical that it is based
on the same engine and could be fitted using the same kit.  There are a few
features which distinguish the Cologne, one is the siamesed exhaust ports -
there are only two per bank of three cylinders.  Also the distributor is in the
middle of the V at the back at the top.  It is hidden behind the carb and a bit
of a pig to get at on a lightweight (never seen one fitted to anything else).
Also the water pump is a very large item which covers almost the whole front
of the engine, with the thermostat mounted behind the pump (that's beside the
block not between the pump and the block).  If the US 4.0l Cologne has these
features it could well be based around the same block and may be fittable.
It is also possible that it is based around the same block but may be designed
for a totally different gearbox, and hence have a different crankshaft, and
then need a different spigot bush.  I would have thought that any workshop
worth it's salt could fabricate one of these - they really are nothing more
then a phosphor bronze plate with a few accurately machines holes.  The hard
bit of the kit to make at home is the cast bell-housing adapter.

The same goes for the UK 2.9l I suppose.  I would certainly check vital
dimensions like that before parting with my money.

BTW my engine is carb fed!

Have fun, Steve Reddock, V6 Lightweight

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Date: Thu, 14 Sep 1995 12:54:21 -0500 (EST)
From: Duncan Brown <DB@CHO004.CHO.GE.COM>
Subject: Oil pressure drop

Peter,

> Is it normal for the green oil perssure light to go ON when I come to a quick
> stop? (quick for a lro) The pressure gage, likewise, drops, then pressure
> returns within a few seconds. I've topped up the oil which helps, but even
> topped-up, it still happens. Is this unusual or do I have a problem?

    I think this is perfectly normal, expected, and not particularly
    harmful for an older worn LR engine.  Mine certainly did it (though
    it got worse if I was a quart down.)

    I haven't seen this with my Turner engine yet, for what that's
    worth...

    Duncan

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Date: Thu, 14 Sep 1995 09:58:08 -0700
From: growl@hsmpk14a-101.Eng.Sun.COM (William L. Grouell)
Subject: Re: Green Oil Pressure Light IIA

> Question  for today:
> Is it normal for the green oil perssure light to go ON when I come to a quick
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 11 lines)]
> New Orleans, USA
> '64 IIA 88"  

Answer for today: 

 There is an O-ring where the oil pump intake pipe attaches to the pump. The
symptoms you describe are indicative of this O-ring being bad or *incorrectly*
installed so that the pump can suck air as the oil moves to the front on
stopping. If this seal is good the pump *must* suck through the intake screen,
which is always in oil, even when the level is down.

R bg 

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Date: Thu, 14 Sep 1995 10:00:48 -0700
From: growl@hsmpk14a-101.Eng.Sun.COM (William L. Grouell)
Subject: Re: Timing Marks?

> Anybody have a better method of finding an accurate way to find and mark 
> TDC? 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> Thanks,
> Rob

  If it doesn't ping, it's not too far advanced. 

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Date: Thu, 14 Sep 95 10:11:58 -0700
From: "TeriAnn Wakeman"  <twakeman@apple.com>
Subject: Re: New LR owner

In message <199509140938.EAA28020@butler.uk.stratus.com>  writes:

>      1) I'm 6' 4" and find that the seating is way too close to drive in 
;      comfort (& safety!).  The only half way decent solution is to remove 
>      the back of the seat and rest my back on the metal support !  This is 
;      by no means comfortable.  Does anyone know if the whole seating 
>      arrangement can be moved back approx. 6 inches ? or are there any 
;      ideas/suggestions to help save my back !

look at D90 seats.The railinf is slightly higher and they slide back over the 
seat box mounting flange.  Also, it looks like the back sits a little farther 
rearwards than the series II seats.  Unfortunatly would need to remove the 
behind the seat bulkhead.  A custom pad behind the bulkhead may be your best bet
if you don't want to remove it.

>      2) There always seems to be a smell of petrol when I'm inside, there's 

;      a second fuel tank under the passenger seat (no longer used), could 
>      the fumes be coming from there ?  Or is this just a trait with Land 
>      Rovers ? 

You have a leak.  Look at your filler and vaopr hoses.  If they are old and 
cracked they could be sthe source of the oder.  Also check  the hose going to 
the fuel pump.  The look at the top of the petrol tank for any sign of leaking 
at the sender unit, replace gasket if needed.  look at your fuel pump sedimate 
bowel to see if there is a leak at the seal.  If yes, get a new seal.  If you 
decide to clean out the bowel, get a new seal before doing so.  Chances it is as
old as the car, brittle and will not reseal.

Look to see if the carb's leaking & rebuild as necessary.  You might look to see
that all your bulkhead seals are intact & replace as neccessary.

>      3) Finally, are the rubber door seals easy to get hold of and to 
>      Rovers ? 
;      replace ?  I get soaked everytime it rains !  Living in the UK this is 
>      a very common thing.

You can easily get ether expensive factory seals or economical aftermarket ones.
Check a copy of LRO for a Land Rover parts house near you.

Good luck with your new toy,

TeriAnn Wakeman           FOR SALE:  1968 MGBGT. British racing green with
twakeman@apple.com                    black interior. overdrive. recently
                          US$ 2500    rebuilt engine & brakes. very minor       
                                      surface rust at paint scratches   
              
                         
                       

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Date: Thu, 14 Sep 1995 19:39:03 +0200
From: gawie@pixie.co.za (Gawie van Blerk)
Subject: Paint Codes for SIII/ Stage 1

Hi all

A friend of mine recently bought a SIII/StageI (109/110) Pick up.(1980 I
think) at an army auction. I think it is called an R6 with twin carbs
sitting sideways. Can anyone please point me to the place or help me with
the paint codes for these vehices. That is the original LR colours.

Thanx a lot

Gawie and The Little Green Dragon (with friend Dirty brown with cracked
block - No name yet)

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Date: Thu, 14 Sep 1995 10:41:24 -0700
From: burns@lint.cisco.com (Russell burns)
Subject: RE: Personal Responsibility - LRO Style

Here in the great white north, we buy the 200 degree coffee to pour in
our laps. It seems to me with a 2 mb mouse breath heater, hot coffee
poured libraly in ones lap, might keep important parts of one anatamy
from freezing.
Russ

>To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net
>Skip,
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 16 lines)]
>Trefor
>tdelve@nectech.co.uk
Russ Burns________________________________________________________________
CiscoSystems

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Date: Thu, 14 Sep 1995 13:06:23 -0500 (CDT)
From: David John Place <umplace@cc.UManitoba.CA>
Subject: Re: Timing Marks?

The mark on the IIA pully is very hard to find but it is there.  It is on 
the part closest to the engine front and I was only able to find it by 
running my nail along the edge.  I then put chalk on it so my timing 
light will pick it up and this seems to work well.  You can find top dead 
centre and then use a three corned file to deepen the mark. Dave VE4PN

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Date: Thu, 14 Sep 1995 13:10:31 -0500 (CDT)
From: David John Place <umplace@cc.UManitoba.CA>
Subject: Re: Green Oil Pressure Light IIA

I have the same thing happen on my rebuilt IIA.  I have a gauge as well 
so I know it drops very low when stopping.  It is just the oil sloshing 
forward and a suitable baffle will stop it if you really are concerned.  
The other thing I find helps it is to use the second full line on the dip 
stick instead of the first.  This line is used for filling the sump if 
you expect to do heavy work or stationary engine work.  It gives enough 
oil to stop the problem.  Dave VE4PN

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Date: Wed,  6 Sep 95 19:33:11 PDT
From: Tony@hawtec.demon.co.uk
Subject: Auxiliary Tanks (II/IIA/III)

Part numbers for full kits are as follows:

IIA/III 88" petrol		607074
III 109" 2.25 petrol		*RTC 846
IIA/III 109" 2.6 petrol		RTC848
III 88" 2.25 diesel		RTC 8035
III 109" 2.25 diesel		*RTC8034

* fits on right hand side of vehicle (driver's side if you drive on 
the correct side of the road!)

These are complete kits with all necessary parts, maybe even 
instructions!  I do not know if any are still available as through 
L/R although I do recall that PA Blanchard in York were advertising 
the kits for the 88" five years ago.  Blanchards specialise in 
ex-government (ie military) stock.

I am interested in the fitting for the 88", hence my mail will 
concentrate on this, although if anyone has specific questions 
regarding the 109" fit I will do my best to help if they mail me.

The kit fits to the left hand side under the front (passengers!) 
seat.  The prinicpal parts are:

Fuel tank; underseat fill type
Bolt-on outrigger 		RTC7212
Stiffener for outrigger 	RTC7211
Changeover tap			526783
Pipe R/h tank to tap		90577529
Pipe L/H tank to tap		90577530
Pipe tap to fuel pump		90577531
Switch				510267 (2 off)
5/16" UNF Rivnuts		501224 (5 off)

The switches are activated by the tap in order to swap over the tank 
sender read by the fuel guage.

There is various additional bracketry and labels but the fixings and 
remaining plumbing look the same as for the normal R/H tank.

As far as availability of the constituent parts is concerned L/H 
tanks are pretty much standard on British military Rovers.  Taps 
etc. could therefore reasonably sourced in the UK from breakers.  
Certainly Craddocks were recently advertising the switches and tap 
in their adverts in LROI.  Aftermarket tanks are readily available 
from Craddocks and other specialists here in the UK.

The parts which would seem the most difficult to source are the 
outrigger and stiffener.  However I have recently acquired a 
stiffener on 24 hour delivery from L/R parts and the outrigger is on 
order, due early October.

I am buying the constituent parts rather than the kit because I 
think it will be cheaper and I'm considering the possibility of 
fitting a "side fill" tank as per the previous thread regarding 
auxiliary tanks.  I know its probably silly but I'm uneasy about the 
underseat filling tank.  Anyway, being able to fill the tank without 
my wife having to get out of the vehicle is probably more conducive 
to marital harmony!

This project is very much on the back-burner (if that's not too 
dangerous!) so progress will be slow.  I'll post with further 
details as and when the work progresses.

I hope this is of interest.
   
-------------------------------------
Tony Chapman
HAWTEC                   Tel: +44 (0)1905 723200
Haswell House            Fax: +44 (0)1905 613338
Saint Nicholas Street    Mobile: 0973 316835
Worcester
WR1 1UW

E-mail: Tony@hawtec.demon.co.uk

Date: 09/06/95
Time: 19:33:11

This message was sent by Chameleon 
-------------------------------------

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Date: Thu, 14 Sep 95 12:28:46 PDT
From: steve gross <sgross@enet.net>
Subject: RE: Electric seat controls

Regarding the electric seat switches on the Range Rovers- I have overhauled mine many times... If you need new plastic 
parts, they are available from any Mercedes Benz parts department for very little- last time I bought the seat back piece 
and it was about $2.00.  The contacts need to be burnished and the assembly need to be put together carefully.

I do this about once every 2 years on the drivers side of my '87 Range Rover.

-steve

Stephen C. Gross
Pilot B737
America West Airlines

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Date: Thu, 14 Sep 95 13:45:53 MST
From: DEBROWN@SRP.GOV
Subject: RE: Electric seat controls

FROM:  David Brown                           Internet: debrown@srp.gov
       Computer Graphics Specialist * Mapping Services & Engr Graphics
       PAB219 (602)236-3544 -  Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486
SUBJECT: RE: Electric seat controls
From: steve gross <sgross@enet.net>
> Regarding the electric seat switches on the Range Rovers- I have overhauled
> mine many times... If you need new plastic
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> and it was about $2.00.  The contacts need to be burnished and the assembly
> need to be put together carefully.

> I do this about once every 2 years on the drivers side of my '87 Range Rover.

> -steve
-------------------
Steve, I decided I'd take a quick look under and around the seat for the knob,
and I found $0.12 and the knob!

And being the parsimonious fool that I am, I Called a Mercedes dealer... $94.50
Called "Scottsdale Land Rover"... $182.00 (complete "box" only)
Called British Pacific... $143.42

....think I'll take a little ride to the "M" dealer after work...
I'll post my findings, part number, etc... (Is this "blasphemy?")

#=======#                Never doubt that a small group of individuals
|__|__|__\___            can change the world... indeed, it's the only
| _|  |   |_ |}          thing that ever has.
"(_)""""""(_)"                                          -Margaret Mead

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From: JEPurnell@aol.com
Date: Thu, 14 Sep 1995 17:06:02 -0400
Subject: 90 Rusty Bratwursts in Wisconsin???

I had no idea my post regarding Defending the Defender (against rust in Wi.)
would lead us down such a culinary path, but with all this talk of Bratwurst
and Beer, I am getting very hungry.  I was originally planning on leaving LA
mid October, however I may need to move it WAY up if this trend continues.
 See, you just can't get good wurst in California.
John.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------------------------------------
Date: Wed, 13 Sep 1995 17:05:24 -0700 (PDT)
From: "John C. White III" <jcwhite3@well.com>
Subject: Re: Rusty D90s in Wisconsin?

No, but I lived in Germany for eight years.  Over there bratwursts, the 
entire category of wursts, for that matter, are a sacrament.  You don't 
give the Germans a bad wurst and get away with it.  I'm broadminded 
though.  If I ever get to Wisconsin, I'll try a smoked Sheboygan.

Prost!
John
Native Bavarian
On Wed, 13 Sep 1995 Sanna@aol.com wrote:
> >You wrote... >The local diet of beer, bratwurst (if your not
> from WI you've never had a real one)
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 11 lines)]
> Sheboygan brat.
> Tony

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From: JEPurnell@aol.com
Date: Thu, 14 Sep 1995 17:01:58 -0400
Subject: Re: Rusty D90 in Wisconsin

Thanks to the many who have responded to this post.  It sounds like oiling
the frame is the favorite technique. That and the commonsense approach of
keeping the truck as clean as possible.  It appears that the favorite reward
for a day of frame oiling is a Sheboygan Brautwurst and a Porter or Samuel
Smith's Stout.  

Here is another interesting thing I learned.  A fellow wrote me and told of
when he got caught in the rain, in his 94 D90, with only the surrey top on,
 that the computer got wet and the engine ran as if it had one or two bad
cylinders, stumbling and missing, until the ECU dried out.  I remember
looking at a 95 D90 and seeing the ECU under the passenger's seat.  Did LR
move it there to cure this rain vulnerability?  And I am hoping the tonneau
cover would help redirect the rain. (The owner's manual says you can leave
the truck in the rain with the tonneau and be OK.)   I am positive that next
summer I will get caught in the rain sometime, as I enjoy running topless as
much as I can.  

Ever heard of this problem?  Anyone ever consider moving the ECU?  Is the
1995 ECU actually under the passenger seat, or is what I saw just the stereo
amplifier?  (Looked like an ECU to me.) 

Also, anyone with a D90 and the fiberglass hardtop:  Can you remove the
hardtop easily once it is installed?  I have heard it is laborious to install
for the first time, given all the rivnuts, but after that?  I.e. can I take
it off for the day and put it back on at night  like I can with the full
canvas top?  

Thanks again, 
John P.  
CARB
1994 D90 

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Date: Thu, 14 Sep 1995 17:12:51 EDT
From: "Paul M. Brodie  usssbkpy@ibmmail.com" <usssbkpy@ibmmail.com>
Subject: D90 for sale

Sadly, I'm forced to part with my beloved D90 due to financial constraints.
I am looking for a good home for my friend:

    1994 Red Defender 90
    ====================
      o NAS Defender 90, # 1255
      o 11K miles
      o Service is up to date
      o Oil changed regularly (3K miles)

    LR Extras (this baby is LOADED)
    ---------
      o Full front bull bar
      o Rear safari cage extension
      o Full canvas top
      o Bimini top (never used)
      o Running boards
      o Rear lamp guards
      o Rear tire cover w/LR logo
      o Air conditioner (it works really well !)
      o Rear seat
      o 5 spoke aluminum alloy wheels
      o Locking wheel nuts

    Non-LR Extras
    -------------
      o LOJAK (lifetime coverage paid) (a $700 value)
      o Locking gas cap
      o Matching underseat waterproof Master Locks
      o Blind spot mirrors (attached to side mirrors)

The car has been garaged since I bought it, and has had loving treatment. It
has been off-road (Cape Cod, over the dunes), and has had the undercarriage
seals attended to (per a thread on the LRO). It currently lives in the greater
Boston area.

LR List Price: $32,379 (excluding LOJAK)
Asking  Price: $26,000 (including everything)

If you're interested, please contact me directly at one of the following:

         E-mail: usssbkpy@ibmmail.com

   Office Phone: (617) 985-9111
                 I'm in from 9 AM - 5 PM, Eastern time zone (Boston)
                 This phone has voice mail - leave a message

     Home Phone: (617) 731-5559
                 This phone also has voice mail - leave a message

Paul M. Brodie                 #======#
'94 Red D90                    |+--+|  \
it can be yours .....          |+--+|---\___
usssbkpy@ibmmail.com           | _  |D90|_  |}
                        * * * ==(_)"""""(_)""

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Date: Thu, 14 Sep 1995 17:14:16 -0400
From: bbonner@mail.htp.com (Brian Bonner)
Subject: Re: Discovery oil filter update

>I bought a Rubber Maid 16 inch high tub to modify as an oil changing  
>and gush resistant Discovery tool and will report after the next  
>change. John B. Friedman

I just finished making a device myself. I took a plastic gallon
container(used to have gatoraide in it) and cut a 3x5" hole in the side. It
is the type that is angled towards the hole. I think this might do it. I
will let you know how it turns out on my next change. Soon.
                                        
                                   -=>Brian<=-

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Date: Thu, 14 Sep 1995 17:14:42 -0400
From: bbonner@mail.htp.com (Brian Bonner)
Subject: Re: Rover tire sightings

>Over here in OZ we have a tyre made by McLeod called the Land Rover and
>believe it or not, had Land Rover blazened on the tyre for all to see.  Have
>you ever seen a "Jeep" tyre!!!!  :-)

Actually yes. They are quite common. The Goodyear "Wrangler". Sorry.
                                        
                                   -=>Brian<=-

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Date: Thu, 14 Sep 95 15:24:57 MST
From: DEBROWN@SRP.GOV
Subject: I have *NO* patience!! RR seat switch $86.10 (US)

FROM:  David Brown                           Internet: debrown@srp.gov
       Computer Graphics Specialist * Mapping Services & Engr Graphics
       PAB219 (602)236-3544 -  Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486
SUBJECT: I have *NO* patience!! RR seat switch $86.10 (US)
I couldn't wait! I ran out, bought the seat switch from Mercedes... and it
works! I have full motions! And even attached the switch caps! Paid $86.10
plus tax. Part number: 0124-820-88-10 (drivers side). They listed this as
the passenger side, which makes sense since the switch is mounted in the
door on the Mercedes.

One minor problem... The switch has an extra part for a headrest adjuster.
I'll either cut this extra extension off, or drill a small hole in the cover
to accommodate it. Maybe I could use this as a... a... well... I don't know!
Anyone have a good idea for this?

Do you suppose Mercedes owners have to clean/replace these every two years
or so???

Dave (sitting in comfort) Brown.

P.S. I really *do* have a job... I mean... it's not like I run around in the
Rover all day. Honest!

#=======#                Never doubt that a small group of individuals
|__|__|__\___            can change the world... indeed, it's the only
| _|  |   |_ |}          thing that ever has.
"(_)""""""(_)"                                          -Margaret Mead

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Date: Thu, 14 Sep 95 16:10:15 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Registration.

          Well just a quckie here. This morning I got the
          Landy registered in Washington DC. The computer
          barfed at "Land Rover" so I'm now driving around
          in a 1972 "other". FYI for insurance I use GEICO,
          the LR costs $344 every six months for full
          coverage, 100,000/300,000 and all that, collision
          too. That combined with the Honda (had collision
          pulled off that one) is like $1500/year. Not bad
          for 26 years old in a major city.
          Cheers
          David Bobeck
          72 srIII swb petrol "Miss Lucky" (for now)
          dbobeck@ushmm.org

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From: Robert Watson (CNA) <a-robw@microsoft.com>
Date: Thu, 14 Sep 95 16:04:33 TZ
Subject: So it begins...

Well, 2 things happened today that I'm afraid are a sign of things to come...
	a) The UPS man came today with some mail-order Rover Parts
	b) My wife was commented that I should ease up on the Rover parts for a while

I expect to be seeing/hearing more of both in the future!

-- Bob Watson
'95 Discovery

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Date: Fri, 15 Sep 1995 10:07:45 +1000
From: Lloyd Allison <lloyd@cs.monash.edu.au>
Subject: RR wiring diagrams

Chris Haslam has revised sheet 8 and added a sheet 9 of his 1988 RR
wiring diagrams:
   http://www.cs.monash.edu.au/~lloyd/tildeLand-Rover/RR/Haslam/

Lloyd

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Date: Fri, 15 Sep 1995 01:14:34 +0000
From: rnewell@dircon.co.uk (Russell Newell)
Subject: Rear springs adjustment on SIII LWB

I the Haynes manual in the supplement (ch.13) there is a description on how
to check and adjust the ride height. I have followed this proceedure with
the result that the passanger side is about 1/2 - 3/4" lower now. Have I
got this right can I re-adjust the passenger height as well or did I simply
loosen up the springs and the passenger side is worn?

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Date: Thu, 14 Sep 1995 18:07:52 -0700
From: jimmyp@netcom.com (Jimmy Patrick)
Subject: bleeding

Cheers to all for all the suggestions on my bleeding problems. I hven't
tried everything yet, but I will try everything until I have good pedal. If
I can determine which bit of fidgeting fixes the problem, I will let you
all know. It may be a cumulative fix though, as each sugggestion tried
helps a little bit... Sooner or later I'll get there.

cheers,

jimmy

--
Jimmy Patrick
jimmyp@netcom.com
                                                 

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From: ecoethic@rcinet.com
Date: Thu, 14 Sep 1995 21:34:15 -0400
Subject: Re: Personal Freedom

Brian Bonner and Ron Taylor have recently discussed the issues of personal 
responsibility and societal costs for people following their individual desires 
when it comes to safetey, etc. I would like to offer my perspective on this:

Quite often when I go Rovering I am alone, or at least not with other vehicles. 
This might be criticized from a safety standpoint, as good procedure would be to 
travel in a group so that we could help one another when problems arise. I prefer 
to travel alone, nonetheless, for I value my privacy, I value my trust in my 
Rover, and I prefer to be in situations where my wits alone will see me through. 
Self-suficientcy is not achieved by relying on others to solve our problems. 
Wisdom and good judgement are honed by solving tough situations 
independently. Society might have to pay higher insurance premiums because of 
the foolish actions of others and because of true accidents that no one can 
predict, but so be it. I would not want to see personal freedom curtailed to the 
extent that we lose the ability to choose our course of life, and I sure do not 
want to lose my ability to cruise in my Rover, alone. I suspect many  divers, 
hikers, skiers, motorcyclists, etc. feel the same way. As for the rest of society 
who never engage in anything risky, well, get a life!

Walt Pokines

Tipp City, Ohio

Series Rover Fan

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Date: Thu, 14 Sep 1995 21:39:52 -0500 (EST)
From: Duncan Brown <DB@CHO004.CHO.GE.COM>
Subject: Re: So it begins...

Bob,

> Well, 2 things happened today that I'm afraid are a sign of things to come...
> 	a) The UPS man came today with some mail-order Rover Parts
> 	b) My wife was commented that I should ease up on the Rover parts for a while
> I expect to be seeing/hearing more of both in the future!

    My wife has adopted sort of a "don't ask don't tell" policy with
    regards to the Rover.  (Maybe she's afraid of the answer if she asks
    me to choose between her or it, heh heh heh?)  Surprisingly, this
    included the period leading up to my trip to VT to drop a rebuilt
    engine in the beast.

    Unfortunately, my credit card company called and left a message on
    our home voice mail yesterday, saying they wanted me to call back
    and confirm these outrageously high recent charges from Rovers
    North.  Even more unfortunately, they listed the dates AND AMOUNTS. 
    Even more unfortunately still, my wife was the one who first heard
    the message....we'll see if I live out the year, heh heh heh...

    Duncan

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From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date: 14 Sep 95 21:38:23 EDT
Subject: Spongy pedal - OK when the rear is clamped off?

Well this is the problem.

My brakes are in two-pump mode. I calmp off the rar flex, and the pedal
becomes rock-hard and works perfectly. I have bled 2 liters of fluid through
the rear brake culinders to no avail (pressure-fed at 15PSI).

This happens even with the brake shoes locked to the drums by the adjusters.
My thought is that I have a hung/stuck piston in one of my cylinders. Any
opinions or sage advice? -ajr

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Date: Thu, 14 Sep 1995 20:53:57 -0700
From: jjbpears@ix.netcom.com (Jeremy Bartlett)
Subject: 109 Shock Measurements Needed

Can anyone out there with a 109 with the wheels on do me a favor and 
measure the distance on the rear shock from the top bolt to the base of 
the shock at the start of the lower bolt (on a Genuine shock)?

I need this distance to correctly size aftermarket shocks (Ranchos) and 
Mathilda (the 109 in question) is current sans wheels pending 
"reshoeing".

Many thanks for your help.

Cheers,

Jeremy

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Subject: Re: New LR owner 
Date: Thu, 14 Sep 1995 20:56:50 -0700
From: Benjamin Allan Smith <bens@archimedes.vislab.navy.mil>

In message <199509140938.EAA28020@butler.uk.stratus.com>you wrote:

>      1) I'm 6' 4" and find that the seating is way too close to drive in 
>      comfort (& safety!).  The only half way decent solution is to remove 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
>      arrangement can be moved back approx. 6 inches ? or are there any 
>      ideas/suggestions to help save my back !

	I too am 6' 4" and somehow I've learned to deal with the Land Rover
legroom on my SIII.  (and I've done 3000 mile trips in the Rover, spending
15+ hours in the driver's seat per day.  I find the driving area to be less
cramped than many newer compact cars (I rented a Probe once and it drove me
nuts).  The thing that bugs me the most is how low the window is.  (If I sit
with a straight back, my vision is limited to 15 feet in front of the Rover).
So I slouch.  I did find it useful to remove the sun visors, which adds another
1/2" to 1" of vision on the top of the windscreen.

Ben 

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 Benjamin Smith------------bens@vislab.navy.mil---------1972 Land Rover SIII 88
 Science Applications International Corporation
 Naval Air Warfare Center, Weapons Division, China Lake

"...If I were running such a contest, I would specifically eliminate any entry
 from Ben involving driving the [Land] Rover anywhere.  He'd drive it up the
 Amazon basin for a half can of Jolt and a stale cookie..."  --Kevin Archie

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Date: Thu, 14 Sep 1995 21:01:14 -0700
From: jjbpears@ix.netcom.com (Jeremy Bartlett)
Subject: Quick and Easy LR dating ?

Nick and anyone else interested,

I just came across a new (at least to me) way of determining pretty 
closely the age of a Series drum brake equipped LR (is there any other 
kind :) ).

The exterior of the drum has the date of manufacture cast into rim in 
the following format: day - month - year (e.g., 17 3 65 = March 17, 
1965).  This appears to pre-date the actual date of formal completion of 
manufactur by only 2-3 weeks.

This information is based on Mathilda, a 1965 SIIA 109 SW.  Land Rover 
has documented that she was "born" on April 9, 1965.  Her brake drums 
show the above March dates.

This could make determining the age of the vehicle a relatively accurate 
and quick job.  Just remove a couple of wheels.

Cheers,

Jeremy Bartlett

P.S.  A piece of trivia.  Three of Mathilda's wheels have the March 
date, but one has a July date, 3 months following her month of 
manufacture and shipping to the US.  Hmmm...  wonder what broke on the 
ship? :)

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From: LANDROVER@delphi.com
Date: Fri, 15 Sep 1995 00:04:23 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: When IS Stowe, anyway?

Alan Ritcher wakes up and asks...

> Deities willing, I may be able to make Stowe. ANy ideas as to when it is?

Good Lord man.. Sept 15,16,17!!!

See ya there!

Cheers
Mike

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From: LANDROVER@delphi.com
Date: Fri, 15 Sep 1995 00:04:57 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: What exactly IS double-clutching, an

Alan...

Double-clutching is a method to get the transmission speed
syncronized with the engine speed as you change gears.

The procedure basically is:
1 - Push in the clutch
2 - Put the tranny in neutral
3 - Let out the clutch
4 - play with the throttle *
5 - push in the clutch 
6 - change to the next gear
7 - let out the clutch

Step 4 requires a bit of thought. If you are upshifting, the engine speed
will be decreasing for the same wheel speed, so you want to let off on the
throttle. If you are downshifting, the engine will be speeding up, so you
need to "blip" the throttle. The time between steps 3 and 5 allow the
transmission to slow down or speed up so that when you do step 6, the gears
engage smoothly. 

Cheers
Mike

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Date: Thu, 14 Sep 1995 21:26:02 -0700 (PDT)
From: "John C. White III" <jcwhite3@well.com>
Subject: Re: So it begins...

Um, I still a bit of a newbie to Rovering.  If, for whatever reason, an 
LRO meets and untimely end, is it customery for the rest of us to give 
him a Rover funeral a la Hell's Angels funerals?  You know, lots and lots 
of Land Rovers escorting the coffin which is, of course, being carried by 
a shiney (!) black Land Rover hearse.

On Thu, 14 Sep 1995, Duncan Brown wrote:

> To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net
> Bob,
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 26 lines)]
>     the message....we'll see if I live out the year, heh heh heh...
>     Duncan

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Date: Tue, 28 Mar 95 20:16:45 PST
From: Tony@hawtec.demon.co.uk
Subject: RE: Green Oil Pressure Light IIA 

The owners' manual for the IIA states that the warning light may com 
on when the engine is sidling, but only to worry if it comes on 
during normal use.

I drove my Rover for several years/miles like this without anything 
nasty happening, but it never seemed right to me.  What do others 
think?
-------------------------------------
Tony Chapman
HAWTEC                   Tel: +44 (0)1905 723200
Haswell House            Fax: +44 (0)1905 613338
Saint Nicholas Street    Mobile: 0973 316835
Worcester
WR1 1UW

E-mail: Tony@hawtec.demon.co.uk

Date: 03/28/95
Time: 20:16:45

This message was sent by Chameleon 
-------------------------------------

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Date: Tue, 28 Mar 95 20:41:13 PST
From: Tony@hawtec.demon.co.uk
Subject: RE: Rear Hub Oil Seals 

Sorry, but I don't know a "commercial" part number for these.  
However here in the UK you can buy them under Unipart number GHS202. 
 Its the same part, indeed this was the "official" part until Land 
Rover split its parts operation from that of Rover group and 
Unipart.  You can often buy Unipart items at a discount and their 
list price seems lower than for the same part in a Land Rover bag or 
box.

This applies to many generic parts such as brake cylinders, etc.
-------------------------------------
Tony Chapman
HAWTEC                   Tel: +44 (0)1905 723200
Haswell House            Fax: +44 (0)1905 613338
Saint Nicholas Street    Mobile: 0973 316835
Worcester
WR1 1UW

E-mail: Tony@hawtec.demon.co.uk

Date: 03/28/95
Time: 20:41:13

This message was sent by Chameleon 
-------------------------------------

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