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msg | Sender | lines | Subject |
1 | RICKCRIDER@aol.com | 30 | Canvas Treatment Decision and Results |
2 | Mr Ian Stuart [Ian.Stuar | 35 | Re: Public Stupidity (Was: Environ. Abuse (Was: Rover Abuse)) |
3 | L.Batten@lse.ac.uk | 55 | New LR owner |
4 | "GAWIE VAN BLERK" [A4846 | 21 | Avon Rangemaster ??? |
5 | Easton Trevor [TEASTON@D | 13 | Guide to Purchase and restoration |
6 | "Tom Rowe" [TROWE@AE.AGE | 29 | Re: Bearings |
7 | "Tom Rowe" [TROWE@AE.AGE | 21 | Re: Oil: Rebates & Shelf Life |
8 | "Tom Rowe" [TROWE@AE.AGE | 73 | bleeding brakes, cleaning carbs |
9 | Lloyd Allison [lloyd@cs. | 13 | mud racing |
10 | haystack@netspace.net.au | 27 | Sleep in a Range Rover ? |
11 | "GAWIE VAN BLERK" [A4846 | 28 | Re: Avon rangemasters |
12 | hlapa@Zeus.signalcorp.co | 17 | Re: cleaning carbs |
13 | Rob Bailey [baileyr@cuug | 16 | RE: Haynes Guide |
14 | PDoncaster@aol.com | 20 | Green Oil Pressure Light IIA |
15 | rvirzi@gte.com (Robert A | 31 | Discovery oil changes |
16 | Rob Bailey [baileyr@cuug | 21 | Timing Marks? |
17 | Sanna@aol.com | 14 | Re: My first Land Rover |
18 | Andrew Grafton [A.J.Graf | 44 | Green Oil Pressure Light IIA |
19 | Dixon Kenner [dkenner@em | 15 | Re: My first Land Rover |
20 | DEBROWN@SRP.GOV | 88 | Re: '87 RR misc. problems |
21 | Alan Richer [Alan_Richer | 11 | What exactly IS double-clutching, anyhow? |
22 | "John R. Benham" [BENHAM | 43 | Carawagon For Sale! |
23 | "Wharton, Skip" [wharton | 34 | Personal Responsibility - LRO Style |
24 | BwanaE@aol.com | 29 | Re: Left Coast list |
25 | Trefor Delve [delve1t@ne | 57 | RE: Personal Responsibility - LRO Style |
26 | sreddock@VNET.IBM.COM | 33 | V6s |
27 | Duncan Brown [DB@CHO004. | 20 | Oil pressure drop |
28 | growl@hsmpk14a-101.Eng.S | 20 | Re: Green Oil Pressure Light IIA |
29 | growl@hsmpk14a-101.Eng.S | 12 | Re: Timing Marks? |
30 | "TeriAnn Wakeman" [twak | 54 | Re: New LR owner |
31 | gawie@pixie.co.za (Gawie | 16 | Paint Codes for SIII/ Stage 1 |
32 | burns@lint.cisco.com (Ru | 18 | RE: Personal Responsibility - LRO Style |
33 | David John Place [umplac | 10 | Re: Timing Marks? |
34 | David John Place [umplac | 12 | Re: Green Oil Pressure Light IIA |
35 | Tony@hawtec.demon.co.uk | 86 | Auxiliary Tanks (II/IIA/III) |
36 | steve gross [sgross@enet | 16 | RE: Electric seat controls |
37 | DEBROWN@SRP.GOV | 35 | RE: Electric seat controls |
38 | JEPurnell@aol.com | 33 | 90 Rusty Bratwursts in Wisconsin??? |
39 | JEPurnell@aol.com | 37 | Re: Rusty D90 in Wisconsin |
40 | "Paul M. Brodie usssbkp | 60 | D90 for sale |
41 | bbonner@mail.htp.com (Br | 15 | Re: Discovery oil filter update |
42 | bbonner@mail.htp.com (Br | 12 | Re: Rover tire sightings |
43 | DEBROWN@SRP.GOV | 32 | I have *NO* patience!! RR seat switch $86.10 (US) |
44 | "Bobeck, David R." [dbob | 18 | Registration. |
45 | Robert Watson (CNA) [a-r | 14 | So it begins... |
46 | Lloyd Allison [lloyd@cs. | 10 | RR wiring diagrams |
47 | rnewell@dircon.co.uk (Ru | 10 | Rear springs adjustment on SIII LWB |
48 | jimmyp@netcom.com (Jimmy | 19 | bleeding |
49 | ecoethic@rcinet.com | 30 | Re: Personal Freedom |
50 | Duncan Brown [DB@CHO004. | 26 | Re: So it begins... |
51 | Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus [A | 15 | Spongy pedal - OK when the rear is clamped off? |
52 | jjbpears@ix.netcom.com ( | 18 | 109 Shock Measurements Needed |
53 | Benjamin Allan Smith [be | 31 | [not specified] |
54 | jjbpears@ix.netcom.com ( | 31 | Quick and Easy LR dating ? |
55 | LANDROVER@delphi.com | 16 | Re: When IS Stowe, anyway? |
56 | LANDROVER@delphi.com | 29 | Re: What exactly IS double-clutching, an |
57 | "John C. White III" [jcw | 18 | Re: So it begins... |
58 | Tony@hawtec.demon.co.uk | 27 | RE: Green Oil Pressure Light IIA |
59 | Tony@hawtec.demon.co.uk | 29 | RE: Rear Hub Oil Seals |
From: RICKCRIDER@aol.com Date: Thu, 14 Sep 1995 03:49:00 -0400 Subject: Canvas Treatment Decision and Results Morning all........ Thanks to all who responded about the canvas top coloring and treatment. A trip to the local 'Been There Forever and Has It All' hardware store revealed a product called 'Clear Shield'........made specifically for canvas.....tents, awnings, parkas, etc.......(It did 'smell' very much like Thompsons Water Seal.....which I've used extensively on house restoration projects.) Clear it is and very much so. With some experimenting I found that generic *oil base* flat black paint dissolves and mixes very well with the product. A couple of ounces of flat black added to the quart can of Clear Shield and I had my colorant and sealer in one. Applied a *liberal* coating with a high quality china bristle stain and varnish brush. IT WORKED ABSOLUTELY WONDERFULLY. Left only the slightest hint of brush marks. I believe a second coat brushed in the opposite direction will finish off the job just perfectly. Took about a half quart for the first application.....it really soaked it up. Second coat shouldn't take quite as much. Type to ya'll later. Rick Crider KD4FXA Monroe NC ' 66 Slla 109" (Hugo) .............and, sigh, still for sale to good home...... ' 73 Slll 88" (Jesse) ' 88 Range Rover..........'just the daily driver'.......... ....and......still.......more Alfas than my wife thinks I should have ------------------------------[ <- Message 2 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950915 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Mr Ian Stuart <Ian.Stuart@ed.ac.uk> Date: Thu, 14 Sep 1995 09:10:10 +0000 Subject: Re: Public Stupidity (Was: Environ. Abuse (Was: Rover Abuse)) On 13 Sep 95, Dixon Kenner wrote: > To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net >> 14 Yo girl falls off beach side cliff @ ~2am following drinking bing >> [snip] sues council and Parks and Wildlife on a duty of care basis. > How about 14 year old boy gets into city gravel quary with friends > Gov't won on appeal. 1) Local council are sick of having their windows broken by the local kids, so they replace them with a perspex-derivative. Kid lobs a half-brick at the window, which fails to break & bounces the brick back -- hitting the kid on the head. Parents sue council for not warning people that the windows would not break -- AND WON!! 2) School trip to Eurodisney: 3 kids a caught shoplifting on day 1 and flung out. Upon return to UK, parents demand a refund as their kids didn't get to go to Eurodisney (result unknown, but the cynic in me reckons that the school caved in) 3) The kid who is suspected of burning down one of the area's primary schools is the son of the chief fire marshal The kid who was caught selling drugs is the son of the local police chief The kid who was caught breaking school windows is the son of a glazier ----** Ian Stuart (Computing Officer) +44 31 650 6205 Royal (Dick) School of Veterinary Studies, Edinburgh University. <http://www.vet.ed.ac.uk/> or <http://www.tardis.ed.ac.uk/~kiz/> ------------------------------[ <- Message 3 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950915 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: L.Batten@lse.ac.uk Date: Thu, 14 Sep 95 10:26:41 GMT Subject: New LR owner Dear All, Well I finally did it, after several months/years of looking, I finally went out and bought a Land Rover. I am now the proud owner of a 1966 Series IIa. It's in fairly good condition, but does need some work to get it into decent shape. I've only had the beast for a few days and I'm slowly drawing up a list of things to do to improve her. I've come across a few things that due to my lack of knowledge I can't seem to find an answer and I'm posting this message hoping that the combined wisdom of the list will help me achieve my goals ! Well here goes : 1) I'm 6' 4" and find that the seating is way too close to drive in comfort (& safety!). The only half way decent solution is to remove the back of the seat and rest my back on the metal support ! This is by no means comfortable. Does anyone know if the whole seating arrangement can be moved back approx. 6 inches ? or are there any ideas/suggestions to help save my back ! 2) There always seems to be a smell of petrol when I'm inside, there's a second fuel tank under the passenger seat (no longer used), could the fumes be coming from there ? Or is this just a trait with Land Rovers ? 3) Finally, are the rubber door seals easy to get hold of and to replace ? I get soaked everytime it rains ! Living in the UK this is a very common thing. Well that's it for now. I'm sure there will be others questions along the way. Sorry if I've asked any 'dumb' questions, but I've never owned or known anyone who owns a LR so I'm kinda in the dark. Thanks in advance Leigh ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Leigh Batten London School of Economics E-mail - L.BATTEN@LSE.AC.UK Room A240 Tel: - 0171-955-6714 Houghton Street London Mobile - 0378-134-660 WC2A 2AE 1966 IIa SWB (Janie) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------[ <- Message 4 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950915 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "GAWIE VAN BLERK" <A48462@bfnnfs01.eskom.co.za> Date: Thu, 14 Sep 1995 13:33:57 GMT+200 Subject: Avon Rangemaster ??? Hi All Yes I am still deciding what tires to get. Can anybody tell me more about the Avon Rangemaster 7.50R16 ??? (This is for a 110 Hardtop). Tanks and Good day. Gawie Gawie van Blerk --------------------------------------------------------------- Internet : A48462@bfnnfs01.eskom.co.za (work) : gawie@pixie.co.za (home) URL : http://www.pix.za/0/business/bloemfontein/gawie.html Tel : 27+51+404-2421 --------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------[ <- Message 5 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950915 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Easton Trevor <TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA> Subject: Guide to Purchase and restoration Date: Thu, 14 Sep 95 07:39:00 DST The guide to purchase and diy restoration is available in the US from Classic Motorbooks at 1 800 826 6600 fax 1 715 294 4448. at $34.95 The item number for this book is 117252AE. Their catalogue has an extensive list of automotive books etc. Usual disclaimers Trevor Easton ------------------------------[ <- Message 6 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950915 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU> Date: Thu, 14 Sep 1995 06:51:01 GMT -0600 Subject: Re: Bearings > Greg Brown <brow7767@mstr.hgc.edu> writes: > Hello all, it has been a while since I have written. Well I am going to [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)] > swival balls. Well enough desciption. Does anyone have the aftermarket > part numbers for the front and rear bearings for a Series IIa 88. Pull out the old ones and take them into a bearing shop. They'll give you the replacements. I bought some diff bearings based on numbers I got from a list in a Land Rover newsletter about 13 years ago. It turned out they didn't fit the diff I wanted to put them in. Apparently somewhere along the way some of the bearing sizes got changed, or the numbers in the list were wrong. I've always checked the number on the bearing I want to replace ever since. Mind you, I'm *not* implying that the web list has errors, I haven't looked at it. Tom Rowe UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research 608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578 trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck in places even more inaccessible. ------------------------------[ <- Message 7 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950915 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU> Date: Thu, 14 Sep 1995 06:44:08 GMT -0600 Subject: Re: Oil: Rebates & Shelf Life Hank Writes: Snip > Have experienced dino-oil going bad with age on the shelf. Hank, What were the symptoms of it going bad? Have I missed something all these years? I'v quite often keep oil on hand for a long time. Tom Rowe UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research 608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578 trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck in places even more inaccessible. ------------------------------[ <- Message 8 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950915 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU> Date: Thu, 14 Sep 1995 07:06:11 GMT -0600 Subject: bleeding brakes, cleaning carbs -Michael Carradine writes: > An article in the AB or RN newsletter a while back pointed out that > the older Series models should not be jacked up to bleed the brakes. > Apparently this traps air in the rear (?) brake cylinders. Hmmm. This contradicts the shop manual for the CB type master cylinder. Did they make any reference to that? TeriAnn writes: snip >to bleed your tyre so as not to blow the E-Z bleed's seals, or you can find a >garage that does power bleeding and bring some DOT 4 with you. I'm doing more >of the latter lately. You can generally get a lot of power bleeds done for you Snip TeriAnn, You actually are comfortable that the garage is getting the other nasty brake fluid out of their unit before bleeding your system? I made my own bleeder for CB systems that seems to work. I got an old pressure cooker, drilled a hole in the center and installed a fitting that allows a brake pipe to be attached to the inside and outside. The inside one is about 6" long and fits into a can of fluid. The other goes to an old brake canister cap. I installed a air fitting in the lid of the pressure cooker, set my compressor regulator to just a few pounds and pumped it up. It's a little messy, but the only pressure bleeders I could find at the time were around $100US. Jimmy, I've also had good luck with backing off the adjusters all the way, bleeding, and then readjusting them to the proper setting. Others on this list will contradict that , I believe, but it's worked for me. Hell, if you're desperate try it both ways. Also, did you say you replaced your flex lines? They tend to swell internally with age and so when you press your pedal you are compressing the walls of the flex lines instead of your brake shoes. You should be able to isolate the problem by clamping all of your brake lines. If you do that and your pedal is like a rock, you know it isn't air in the MC. Release the clamps one at a time and test. I made clamps with three pairs of small needle nose Vice Grips, grinding the jaws round so as not to damage the brake lines. You don't need to clamp them hard to get the lines to seal, fairly light pressure will do. Good luck. David Place writes: Snip > On another point. I have never tried this but my mechanic friend who > worked for a carb rebuilding shop says if you don't have carb cleaner to > soak your carb in use vinegar. It might be a bit more eco conscious than > the strong agents we normally use. I suspect it would need more time to > work but it should do the trick. Dave VE4PN For those who have access to one, I had great success, back when I was doing a lot of Solex carbs, using an ultrasonic cleaner. I'd take the carb apart, take it into work and trot on down to the lab. If they weren't using it they were quite accomadating in letting me use their cleaner. The carbs usually came out quite nice looking. Tom Rowe UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research 608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578 trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck in places even more inaccessible. ------------------------------[ <- Message 9 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950915 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 14 Sep 1995 22:32:53 +1000 From: Lloyd Allison <lloyd@cs.monash.edu.au> Subject: mud racing Does anyone know about mud-racing in the USA ? esp' internet resources. I take it this is racing more or less continually in mud as opposed to racing which happens to involve mud from time to time, and that it differs (?) from swamp racing [that I've seen on TV] which seems to involve hydro-foil "boats" propelled by large V8s driving tractor tyres. sorry, Lloyd ------------------------------[ <- Message 10 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950915 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 14 Sep 1995 22:36:01 +1000 From: haystack@netspace.net.au (Doug McPherson) Subject: Sleep in a Range Rover ? Hi all. I was just wondering how long the back end of a Range Rover is, between the back of the front seats and the tail gate. Basically, could a 6 footer like me sleep in the back comfortably ? Two people ? With or without modifications. (Modifications to the RR, not me !) Anyone ever done a camper conversion on an RR ? If you remember, I was looking for a 110 a couple of days ago. I still am, but RRs are much more prevalent here. Much the same price too, if not cheaper. The main role of the truck will be travelling to far away places with my significant other (Sharon), then walking ! I've slept in a 109 and that was OK. But no one I know has an RR. Thanks in advance for any info. Doug. ------------------------------[ <- Message 11 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950915 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "GAWIE VAN BLERK" <A48462@bfnnfs01.eskom.co.za> Date: Thu, 14 Sep 1995 14:54:09 GMT+200 Subject: Re: Avon rangemasters Hi Andrew > Sorry to be negative - I just never heard anything positive! No problem - better safe than sorry. I just found that they were the cheapest available tyres down here - The normal SAG's we use on LR's has got some problem and they must import a new mould before the can start making them again. Seems like it is back to Micheln XZY's. About 1.5x the price of the rest, but I think it will be worth it. Greetings Gawie Gawie van Blerk --------------------------------------------------------------- Internet : A48462@bfnnfs01.eskom.co.za (work) : gawie@pixie.co.za (home) URL : http://www.pix.za/0/business/bloemfontein/gawie.html Tel : 27+51+404-2421 --------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------[ <- Message 12 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950915 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: hlapa@Zeus.signalcorp.com Date: Thu, 14 Sep 95 08:58:49 EST Subject: Re: cleaning carbs Just remember that carb cleaner is a solvent -- it dissolves the crud, not the metal. Vinegar is acid, it attacks both. You can use vinegar (or other acidic cleaners, but don't leave your parts in there "forever" soaking. Hank > Subject: bleeding brakes, cleaning carbs > Author: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU> at Zeus [ truncated by lro-digester (was 86 lines)] > Four wheel drive allows you to get > stuck in places even more inaccessible. ------------------------------[ <- Message 13 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950915 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 14 Sep 1995 07:12:30 -0600 (MDT) From: Rob Bailey <baileyr@cuug.ab.ca> Subject: RE: Haynes Guide I believe that this is a book offered by Classic Motorbooks. They have an 800 number, but I can't remember it right now, call 1-800-555-1212 for directory assistance. Rob >Is the Haynes "Guide to Purchase & DIY Restoration: Land Rover Series I,II >&III" book available in the U.S.? I tried to order it through the college [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)] >Ah, college life, when all will be karmically perfect should there be a >Series III. ------------------------------[ <- Message 14 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950915 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: PDoncaster@aol.com Date: Thu, 14 Sep 1995 09:18:19 -0400 Subject: Green Oil Pressure Light IIA Hi, Thanks for all the replys to my yesterdays questions, they were very helpful. Question for today: Is it normal for the green oil perssure light to go ON when I come to a quick stop? (quick for a lro) The pressure gage, likewise, drops, then pressure returns within a few seconds. I've topped up the oil which helps, but even topped-up, it still happens. Is this unusual or do I have a problem? Peter Doncaster New Orleans, USA '64 IIA 88" ------------------------------[ <- Message 15 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950915 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 14 Sep 1995 09:41:06 -0400 From: rvirzi@gte.com (Robert A. Virzi) Subject: Discovery oil changes In a recent digest, John Friedman wrote: "I bought a Rubber Maid 16 inch high tub to modify as an oil changing and gush resistant Discovery tool and will report after the next change." I found a nifty device at a local Kmart that worked exceptionally well for me. It's a plastic oil change pan. It is shaped liked a large (~14" diameter) squat cylinder with a spout coming out the cylinder wall. (Sort of like the letter Q.) The neat feature is that it has two openings. The spout has a cap, of course. One side of the cylinder is a large, hubcap-like cover that screws onto the rest of the pan. Take this off and let the oil pour into the wide opening. When I did the change, I put the truck up on ramps on a hill, so that the body was pretty close to level. I did NOT remove the oil filler cover before emptying the oil, and except for what splashed because my hand was in the way, I didn't spill a drop. You might want to look for one of these pans because (a) it was cheap and (b) it has some nice features like a screen to catch the plug if you drop it and a spout to make it easier to pour it in your local trout stream. (JUST KIDDING!) -Bob rvirzi@gte.com Think Globally. === +1(617)466-2881 === Act Locally! ------------------------------[ <- Message 16 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950915 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 14 Sep 1995 07:49:43 -0600 (MDT) From: Rob Bailey <baileyr@cuug.ab.ca> Subject: Timing Marks? I was trying to set the timing on my 63 88" 2.25L petrol and can't find the timing marks. As I understand it, it should either have a timing tab on the front cover or an access panel for the flywheel. Well, I can't see an access panel, and it does have a timing tab (that doesn't quite look like the one in my manual, it only has two tabs on it TDC, -3'?) but the front pulley doesn't have any noticable TDC mark! I tried to find TDC with the piston, but how accurate can that be?. I'm gonna try to determine where it is with the valves, but I doubt that I can set it very accurately without a proper mark. I suspect that the timing is a little too advanced, as the engine overheats slightly at high revs. Anybody have a better method of finding an accurate way to find and mark TDC? Thanks, Rob ------------------------------[ <- Message 17 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950915 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Sanna@aol.com Date: Thu, 14 Sep 1995 10:32:52 -0400 Subject: Re: My first Land Rover > Also, I'm having trouble with my insurance co., they consider my Rover "high risk" Time to do some shopping. A good independent agent should help. I've been insuring Lullubelle for 25 years now, and have never paid more than $600/yr (full liability & collision w/$100 deduct, and 100% comprehensive & glass). Tony ------------------------------[ <- Message 18 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950915 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Andrew Grafton <A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk> Subject: Green Oil Pressure Light IIA Date: Thu, 14 Sep 95 15:31:09 BST > Question for today: > Is it normal for the green oil perssure light to go ON when I come to a quick stop? (quick for a lro) The pressure gage, likewise, drops, then pressure > returns within a few seconds. I've topped up the oil which helps, but even topped-up, it still happens. Is this unusual or do I have a problem? One of our 2286 diesel 109"s does the exact same thing. Oil pressure is fine on the gauge, but during a fast stop the light flicks on for just a second or two. If you tilt the nose down more than about 50 degrees (not percent) in a hole then the green light comes on and stays on. Pressure drops right down (but not to zero) on the gauge. The light on the (newer) diesel will come on but only very briefly - you have to decelerate as fast as possible from 60-0 to get it to do it. No pressure gauge, tho'. Haven't put the nose at a silly angle (intentionally or otherwise) yet to check. The pressure light on my (previous) SIII 2286 petrol used to come on frequently when coming to a stop, as it did on a friend's IIA. All the above vehicles were topped up with oil correctly, and the engines are/were sweet (except the IIA which had a clattery head). The oil pumps checked OK for wear according to the workshop manuals last time we had 'em apart. I'd be interested if anyone knows why this happens... {I know - lack of oil pressure!! but... why?! Insufficient oil in the bottom of the sump?) Could this be the reason for the baffle plates in the sump? Maybe a different baffle arrangement lets the oil pump run dry for a bit? All the best, Andy A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk ------------------------------[ <- Message 19 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950915 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 14 Sep 1995 11:06:15 -0400 (EDT) From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.emr.ca> Subject: Re: My first Land Rover On Thu, 14 Sep 1995 Sanna@aol.com wrote: > Time to do some shopping. A good independent agent should help. I've been > insuring Lullubelle for 25 years now, and have never paid more than $600/yr > (full liability & collision w/$100 deduct, and 100% comprehensive & glass). Best I ever did with the 109 was in Quebec (State auto insurance manditory & then extra required for above their limits). Forget what the Provincial cut was, but the private stuff cost $29/yr three years ago. ------------------------------[ <- Message 20 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950915 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 14 Sep 95 08:11:12 MST From: DEBROWN@SRP.GOV Subject: Re: '87 RR misc. problems FROM: David Brown Internet: debrown@srp.gov Computer Graphics Specialist * Mapping Services & Engr Graphics PAB219 (602)236-3544 - Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486 SUBJECT: Re: '87 RR misc. problems From: matts@cacilj.caciasl.com (Matt Snyder) **************** An excellent ascii drawing ****************** I think I may be able to help you there, as I successfully got the seat into an acceptable position using jumper wires. It takes two wires, because both hot and ground must be connected. >From memory, the plugs that connect to the bottom of the switch look something like this: +--------+ My drawing may not be accurate, but I show two vertical blades, | | two round pins, and two horizontal blades. One of the plugs | | | | has both round pins, but the other plug has only one round pin. | | | | If I remember correctly, the round pin present on both plugs | | is hot, while the round pin present on only one plug is ground. | o o | | | Be default, none of the blades is connected to anything. When | --- | you move a button, one blade is supposed to go to ground, and | | another blade is supposed to go to hot. I was able to | --- | determine the correct blades to hotwire using my multimeter | | on the working driver's side switch. +--------+ If you think about it, this behavior makes sense, because it's the same motor that makes the seat go both forward and backward, the only difference is the polarity. In summary, a working hotwire might look something like this in principal: +--------+ +--------+ | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | ___| | | | | / | | o o___ \____o | | \ | | --- | \ | --- | | | / | | | ---___/ | --- | | | | +--------+ +--------+ I'm sorry I don't have more specifics, but for me the breakthrough was realizing that two connections are required, so maybe that will help you. -Matt ******************** End of Mat's message. ******************* Mat, Great news!!! Your drawing was *very* helpful! Only thing to change is, When connecting the two leads, one end of each of the two jumpers goes on the large plug-in's as you've indicated, The other ends work as a pair to connect each of the smaller "pairs" of plugs. Let's see if I can illustrate: +--------+ +--------+ | | | | { Each "pair" of smaller | | | | | | | | {{{ contacts controls a different | | | | | | | | { seat function. | | | | | | o o_______ ______________o | | | | \ / | / | ---_______/ / | --- | / | | / | | {{{ | ---_________/ | --- | | | | | +--------+ +--------+ As you stated, reversing the two jumpers reversed the direction of the motor. Thanks!!! Now I only have to replace one switch... I got the passenger seat into a "comfortable" position now, so don't need to adjust it. (at least not often, anyway.) Maybe I can use parts from the pass. seat switch to fix the drivers seat. Typical Rover workings, eh? Many thanks, and I hope this helps others as well. Maybe a FAQ file addition? And speaking of FAQ files, is there one for Range Rovers? #=======# Never doubt that a small group of individuals |__|__|__\___ can change the world... indeed, it's the only | _| | |_ |} thing that ever has. "(_)""""""(_)" -Margaret Mead ------------------------------[ <- Message 21 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950915 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Alan Richer <Alan_Richer.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com> Date: 14 Sep 95 10:58:39 EDT Subject: What exactly IS double-clutching, anyhow? I must be doing it as I haven't destroyed my gearbox, but the exact process and practice escapes me. I must be getting dumb in my old age... (no smart remarks...<grin>) Alan ------------------------------[ <- Message 22 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950915 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "John R. Benham" <BENHAM@WFOCLAN.USBM.GOV> Date: Thu, 14 Sep 1995 08:24:34 +1100 Subject: Carawagon For Sale! Dear LRO's, An acquaintance of mine is selling his Carawagon. Below are the particulars: - 1966 Carawagon - 109 IIA - RHD - 2.25L Petro - Bronze Green - Velour Uphostery in great condition - Bull Bar - Cibie Lights, 3 sets - Two sets of tyres: - Dunlops for highway - All Terrain/mud for off-road - Overdrive - Locking Hubs - Sound System - Body Straight - Oddometer: 130,000 miles ASKING: $13,000., obo Talk with Bob Lanktree in Phoeniz, Arizona, USA at (602) 931-8890 Good luck! John R. Benham - Editor Spokane, WA USA `The Rover Runner' ______ |______\_____ 1968 88 IIA Marine Blue *--- [|_/-\____/-\_|} The `BWANA' Mobile *--- (O) (O) "Read! Read! Read! Anything and everything. Taste will come later..." ------------------------------[ <- Message 23 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950915 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 14 Sep 95 11:52:55 EST From: "Wharton, Skip" <wharton@mail.scra.org> Subject: Personal Responsibility - LRO Style Reading with interest notes from around the world referring to sue-ers - seems like the lawyers have taken over the universe... I'm reminded of the little old lady recently who pulled into a McDonalds drive-thru and dropped a cup of steaming coffee into her lap, thus enabling her to sue McD's for umpty-squat millions of dollars. Think about your average LRO who, upon discovering the same coffee in his lap, would utter a short, barking epithet such as "Oh, Darn", or "Blimey, my crotch is on fire", and would eject himself from his vehicle with the speed of a scalded-ass ape. Then, upon seeing spilled coffee by the side of the Rover, would wonder NOW what fluid is she leaking? and would crawl underneath only to burn his hand on the manifold, thus allowing him to forget the crotch pain. He would then drive home to bandage his hand and to check again for the leak he failed to find - leaving his coffee and his opportunity to enrich himself forgotten at the fast-food drive-thru, but incredibly happy to have a reason to putter and tinker. No wonder we're all so poor, but invariably happy with our lives! Regards, Skip Wharton From the Holy City of Charleston, SC, USA '72 Series IIA ------------------------------[ <- Message 24 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950915 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: BwanaE@aol.com Date: Thu, 14 Sep 1995 12:22:16 -0400 Subject: Re: Left Coast list AOL recently changed it's e-mail software to allow transfering attached files (pix, sounds, graphics, etc) to documents sent over the net. This is a laudable goal, but the bad news is that their program does not differentiate between actual attached files, and a simply lenghty (> 25k) text document such as the digests for the 'Left coast list' . Anything >25k is now compressed with a MIME utility and when you receive your e-mail, it is sent directly to your hard drive. Now to read the digests, you must uncompress the file using a MIME utility (available from AOL's library), minimize the AOL application, use File Manager to locate the file on your disc, open, read, close, delete, and then return to AOL for the rest of your mail... what a pain !! I've spoken 3 time with AOL's tech support people, and the concensus seems to be "live with it" until their next software update... no date given. Brad, hope this answers your question... now for a possible fix : Hey Ben ... any chance that your program for the digest can be modified to break up the digest into "page 1 of 4" , "page 2 of 4" etc. with no page exceeding say 20k ? This will bypass this problem for all of us AOL weenies. Eric. ------------------------------[ <- Message 25 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950915 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Trefor Delve <delve1t@nectech.co.uk> Subject: RE: Personal Responsibility - LRO Style Date: Thu, 14 Sep 95 17:29:00 GMT Skip, Good thought. Also an LRO upon detecting any warmth (at all) would also probably eject himself from the landrover thinking that something has caught fire on the grounds that is not possible to be warm in a landrover in the first place. Trefor tdelve@nectech.co.uk ---------- Reading with interest notes from around the world referring to sue-ers - seems like the lawyers have taken over the universe... I'm reminded of the little old lady recently who pulled into a McDonalds drive-thru and dropped a cup of steaming coffee into her lap, thus enabling her to sue McD's for umpty-squat millions of dollars. Think about your average LRO who, upon discovering the same coffee in his lap, would utter a short, barking epithet such as "Oh, Darn", or "Blimey, my crotch is on fire", and would eject himself from his vehicle with the speed of a scalded-ass ape. Then, upon seeing spilled coffee by the side of the Rover, would wonder NOW what fluid is she leaking? and would crawl underneath only to burn his hand on the manifold, thus allowing him to forget the crotch pain. He would then drive home to bandage his hand and to check again for the leak he failed to find - leaving his coffee and his opportunity to enrich himself forgotten at the fast-food drive-thru, but incredibly happy to have a reason to putter and tinker. No wonder we're all so poor, but invariably happy with our lives! Regards, Skip Wharton From the Holy City of Charleston, SC, USA '72 Series IIA ------------------------------[ <- Message 26 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950915 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: sreddock@VNET.IBM.COM Date: Thu, 14 Sep 95 17:06:36 BST Subject: V6s Hi there, I am fairly certain that the 2.9 Ford V6 is a development of the Cologne, but I have never seen one. This would suggest that they would fit in place of a 2.8l, also having the same siamesed exhaust ports. I have know idea at all about the 4.0 cologne, it is logical that it is based on the same engine and could be fitted using the same kit. There are a few features which distinguish the Cologne, one is the siamesed exhaust ports - there are only two per bank of three cylinders. Also the distributor is in the middle of the V at the back at the top. It is hidden behind the carb and a bit of a pig to get at on a lightweight (never seen one fitted to anything else). Also the water pump is a very large item which covers almost the whole front of the engine, with the thermostat mounted behind the pump (that's beside the block not between the pump and the block). If the US 4.0l Cologne has these features it could well be based around the same block and may be fittable. It is also possible that it is based around the same block but may be designed for a totally different gearbox, and hence have a different crankshaft, and then need a different spigot bush. I would have thought that any workshop worth it's salt could fabricate one of these - they really are nothing more then a phosphor bronze plate with a few accurately machines holes. The hard bit of the kit to make at home is the cast bell-housing adapter. The same goes for the UK 2.9l I suppose. I would certainly check vital dimensions like that before parting with my money. BTW my engine is carb fed! Have fun, Steve Reddock, V6 Lightweight ------------------------------[ <- Message 27 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950915 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 14 Sep 1995 12:54:21 -0500 (EST) From: Duncan Brown <DB@CHO004.CHO.GE.COM> Subject: Oil pressure drop Peter, > Is it normal for the green oil perssure light to go ON when I come to a quick > stop? (quick for a lro) The pressure gage, likewise, drops, then pressure > returns within a few seconds. I've topped up the oil which helps, but even > topped-up, it still happens. Is this unusual or do I have a problem? I think this is perfectly normal, expected, and not particularly harmful for an older worn LR engine. Mine certainly did it (though it got worse if I was a quart down.) I haven't seen this with my Turner engine yet, for what that's worth... Duncan ------------------------------[ <- Message 28 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950915 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 14 Sep 1995 09:58:08 -0700 From: growl@hsmpk14a-101.Eng.Sun.COM (William L. Grouell) Subject: Re: Green Oil Pressure Light IIA > Question for today: > Is it normal for the green oil perssure light to go ON when I come to a quick [ truncated by lro-digester (was 11 lines)] > New Orleans, USA > '64 IIA 88" Answer for today: There is an O-ring where the oil pump intake pipe attaches to the pump. The symptoms you describe are indicative of this O-ring being bad or *incorrectly* installed so that the pump can suck air as the oil moves to the front on stopping. If this seal is good the pump *must* suck through the intake screen, which is always in oil, even when the level is down. R bg ------------------------------[ <- Message 29 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950915 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 14 Sep 1995 10:00:48 -0700 From: growl@hsmpk14a-101.Eng.Sun.COM (William L. Grouell) Subject: Re: Timing Marks? > Anybody have a better method of finding an accurate way to find and mark > TDC? [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)] > Thanks, > Rob If it doesn't ping, it's not too far advanced. ------------------------------[ <- Message 30 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950915 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 14 Sep 95 10:11:58 -0700 From: "TeriAnn Wakeman" <twakeman@apple.com> Subject: Re: New LR owner In message <199509140938.EAA28020@butler.uk.stratus.com> writes: > 1) I'm 6' 4" and find that the seating is way too close to drive in ; comfort (& safety!). The only half way decent solution is to remove > the back of the seat and rest my back on the metal support ! This is ; by no means comfortable. Does anyone know if the whole seating > arrangement can be moved back approx. 6 inches ? or are there any ; ideas/suggestions to help save my back ! look at D90 seats.The railinf is slightly higher and they slide back over the seat box mounting flange. Also, it looks like the back sits a little farther rearwards than the series II seats. Unfortunatly would need to remove the behind the seat bulkhead. A custom pad behind the bulkhead may be your best bet if you don't want to remove it. > 2) There always seems to be a smell of petrol when I'm inside, there's ; a second fuel tank under the passenger seat (no longer used), could > the fumes be coming from there ? Or is this just a trait with Land > Rovers ? You have a leak. Look at your filler and vaopr hoses. If they are old and cracked they could be sthe source of the oder. Also check the hose going to the fuel pump. The look at the top of the petrol tank for any sign of leaking at the sender unit, replace gasket if needed. look at your fuel pump sedimate bowel to see if there is a leak at the seal. If yes, get a new seal. If you decide to clean out the bowel, get a new seal before doing so. Chances it is as old as the car, brittle and will not reseal. Look to see if the carb's leaking & rebuild as necessary. You might look to see that all your bulkhead seals are intact & replace as neccessary. > 3) Finally, are the rubber door seals easy to get hold of and to > Rovers ? ; replace ? I get soaked everytime it rains ! Living in the UK this is > a very common thing. You can easily get ether expensive factory seals or economical aftermarket ones. Check a copy of LRO for a Land Rover parts house near you. Good luck with your new toy, TeriAnn Wakeman FOR SALE: 1968 MGBGT. British racing green with twakeman@apple.com black interior. overdrive. recently US$ 2500 rebuilt engine & brakes. very minor surface rust at paint scratches ------------------------------[ <- Message 31 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950915 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 14 Sep 1995 19:39:03 +0200 From: gawie@pixie.co.za (Gawie van Blerk) Subject: Paint Codes for SIII/ Stage 1 Hi all A friend of mine recently bought a SIII/StageI (109/110) Pick up.(1980 I think) at an army auction. I think it is called an R6 with twin carbs sitting sideways. Can anyone please point me to the place or help me with the paint codes for these vehices. That is the original LR colours. Thanx a lot Gawie and The Little Green Dragon (with friend Dirty brown with cracked block - No name yet) ------------------------------[ <- Message 32 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950915 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 14 Sep 1995 10:41:24 -0700 From: burns@lint.cisco.com (Russell burns) Subject: RE: Personal Responsibility - LRO Style Here in the great white north, we buy the 200 degree coffee to pour in our laps. It seems to me with a 2 mb mouse breath heater, hot coffee poured libraly in ones lap, might keep important parts of one anatamy from freezing. Russ >To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net >Skip, [ truncated by lro-digester (was 16 lines)] >Trefor >tdelve@nectech.co.uk Russ Burns________________________________________________________________ CiscoSystems ------------------------------[ <- Message 33 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950915 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 14 Sep 1995 13:06:23 -0500 (CDT) From: David John Place <umplace@cc.UManitoba.CA> Subject: Re: Timing Marks? The mark on the IIA pully is very hard to find but it is there. It is on the part closest to the engine front and I was only able to find it by running my nail along the edge. I then put chalk on it so my timing light will pick it up and this seems to work well. You can find top dead centre and then use a three corned file to deepen the mark. Dave VE4PN ------------------------------[ <- Message 34 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950915 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 14 Sep 1995 13:10:31 -0500 (CDT) From: David John Place <umplace@cc.UManitoba.CA> Subject: Re: Green Oil Pressure Light IIA I have the same thing happen on my rebuilt IIA. I have a gauge as well so I know it drops very low when stopping. It is just the oil sloshing forward and a suitable baffle will stop it if you really are concerned. The other thing I find helps it is to use the second full line on the dip stick instead of the first. This line is used for filling the sump if you expect to do heavy work or stationary engine work. It gives enough oil to stop the problem. Dave VE4PN ------------------------------[ <- Message 35 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950915 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 6 Sep 95 19:33:11 PDT From: Tony@hawtec.demon.co.uk Subject: Auxiliary Tanks (II/IIA/III) Part numbers for full kits are as follows: IIA/III 88" petrol 607074 III 109" 2.25 petrol *RTC 846 IIA/III 109" 2.6 petrol RTC848 III 88" 2.25 diesel RTC 8035 III 109" 2.25 diesel *RTC8034 * fits on right hand side of vehicle (driver's side if you drive on the correct side of the road!) These are complete kits with all necessary parts, maybe even instructions! I do not know if any are still available as through L/R although I do recall that PA Blanchard in York were advertising the kits for the 88" five years ago. Blanchards specialise in ex-government (ie military) stock. I am interested in the fitting for the 88", hence my mail will concentrate on this, although if anyone has specific questions regarding the 109" fit I will do my best to help if they mail me. The kit fits to the left hand side under the front (passengers!) seat. The prinicpal parts are: Fuel tank; underseat fill type Bolt-on outrigger RTC7212 Stiffener for outrigger RTC7211 Changeover tap 526783 Pipe R/h tank to tap 90577529 Pipe L/H tank to tap 90577530 Pipe tap to fuel pump 90577531 Switch 510267 (2 off) 5/16" UNF Rivnuts 501224 (5 off) The switches are activated by the tap in order to swap over the tank sender read by the fuel guage. There is various additional bracketry and labels but the fixings and remaining plumbing look the same as for the normal R/H tank. As far as availability of the constituent parts is concerned L/H tanks are pretty much standard on British military Rovers. Taps etc. could therefore reasonably sourced in the UK from breakers. Certainly Craddocks were recently advertising the switches and tap in their adverts in LROI. Aftermarket tanks are readily available from Craddocks and other specialists here in the UK. The parts which would seem the most difficult to source are the outrigger and stiffener. However I have recently acquired a stiffener on 24 hour delivery from L/R parts and the outrigger is on order, due early October. I am buying the constituent parts rather than the kit because I think it will be cheaper and I'm considering the possibility of fitting a "side fill" tank as per the previous thread regarding auxiliary tanks. I know its probably silly but I'm uneasy about the underseat filling tank. Anyway, being able to fill the tank without my wife having to get out of the vehicle is probably more conducive to marital harmony! This project is very much on the back-burner (if that's not too dangerous!) so progress will be slow. I'll post with further details as and when the work progresses. I hope this is of interest. ------------------------------------- Tony Chapman HAWTEC Tel: +44 (0)1905 723200 Haswell House Fax: +44 (0)1905 613338 Saint Nicholas Street Mobile: 0973 316835 Worcester WR1 1UW E-mail: Tony@hawtec.demon.co.uk Date: 09/06/95 Time: 19:33:11 This message was sent by Chameleon ------------------------------------- ------------------------------[ <- Message 36 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950915 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 14 Sep 95 12:28:46 PDT From: steve gross <sgross@enet.net> Subject: RE: Electric seat controls Regarding the electric seat switches on the Range Rovers- I have overhauled mine many times... If you need new plastic parts, they are available from any Mercedes Benz parts department for very little- last time I bought the seat back piece and it was about $2.00. The contacts need to be burnished and the assembly need to be put together carefully. I do this about once every 2 years on the drivers side of my '87 Range Rover. -steve Stephen C. Gross Pilot B737 America West Airlines ------------------------------[ <- Message 37 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950915 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 14 Sep 95 13:45:53 MST From: DEBROWN@SRP.GOV Subject: RE: Electric seat controls FROM: David Brown Internet: debrown@srp.gov Computer Graphics Specialist * Mapping Services & Engr Graphics PAB219 (602)236-3544 - Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486 SUBJECT: RE: Electric seat controls From: steve gross <sgross@enet.net> > Regarding the electric seat switches on the Range Rovers- I have overhauled > mine many times... If you need new plastic [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)] > and it was about $2.00. The contacts need to be burnished and the assembly > need to be put together carefully. > I do this about once every 2 years on the drivers side of my '87 Range Rover. > -steve ------------------- Steve, I decided I'd take a quick look under and around the seat for the knob, and I found $0.12 and the knob! And being the parsimonious fool that I am, I Called a Mercedes dealer... $94.50 Called "Scottsdale Land Rover"... $182.00 (complete "box" only) Called British Pacific... $143.42 ....think I'll take a little ride to the "M" dealer after work... I'll post my findings, part number, etc... (Is this "blasphemy?") #=======# Never doubt that a small group of individuals |__|__|__\___ can change the world... indeed, it's the only | _| | |_ |} thing that ever has. "(_)""""""(_)" -Margaret Mead ------------------------------[ <- Message 38 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950915 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: JEPurnell@aol.com Date: Thu, 14 Sep 1995 17:06:02 -0400 Subject: 90 Rusty Bratwursts in Wisconsin??? I had no idea my post regarding Defending the Defender (against rust in Wi.) would lead us down such a culinary path, but with all this talk of Bratwurst and Beer, I am getting very hungry. I was originally planning on leaving LA mid October, however I may need to move it WAY up if this trend continues. See, you just can't get good wurst in California. John. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ ------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 13 Sep 1995 17:05:24 -0700 (PDT) From: "John C. White III" <jcwhite3@well.com> Subject: Re: Rusty D90s in Wisconsin? No, but I lived in Germany for eight years. Over there bratwursts, the entire category of wursts, for that matter, are a sacrament. You don't give the Germans a bad wurst and get away with it. I'm broadminded though. If I ever get to Wisconsin, I'll try a smoked Sheboygan. Prost! John Native Bavarian On Wed, 13 Sep 1995 Sanna@aol.com wrote: > >You wrote... >The local diet of beer, bratwurst (if your not > from WI you've never had a real one) [ truncated by lro-digester (was 11 lines)] > Sheboygan brat. > Tony ------------------------------[ <- Message 39 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950915 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: JEPurnell@aol.com Date: Thu, 14 Sep 1995 17:01:58 -0400 Subject: Re: Rusty D90 in Wisconsin Thanks to the many who have responded to this post. It sounds like oiling the frame is the favorite technique. That and the commonsense approach of keeping the truck as clean as possible. It appears that the favorite reward for a day of frame oiling is a Sheboygan Brautwurst and a Porter or Samuel Smith's Stout. Here is another interesting thing I learned. A fellow wrote me and told of when he got caught in the rain, in his 94 D90, with only the surrey top on, that the computer got wet and the engine ran as if it had one or two bad cylinders, stumbling and missing, until the ECU dried out. I remember looking at a 95 D90 and seeing the ECU under the passenger's seat. Did LR move it there to cure this rain vulnerability? And I am hoping the tonneau cover would help redirect the rain. (The owner's manual says you can leave the truck in the rain with the tonneau and be OK.) I am positive that next summer I will get caught in the rain sometime, as I enjoy running topless as much as I can. Ever heard of this problem? Anyone ever consider moving the ECU? Is the 1995 ECU actually under the passenger seat, or is what I saw just the stereo amplifier? (Looked like an ECU to me.) Also, anyone with a D90 and the fiberglass hardtop: Can you remove the hardtop easily once it is installed? I have heard it is laborious to install for the first time, given all the rivnuts, but after that? I.e. can I take it off for the day and put it back on at night like I can with the full canvas top? Thanks again, John P. CARB 1994 D90 ------------------------------[ <- Message 40 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950915 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 14 Sep 1995 17:12:51 EDT From: "Paul M. Brodie usssbkpy@ibmmail.com" <usssbkpy@ibmmail.com> Subject: D90 for sale Sadly, I'm forced to part with my beloved D90 due to financial constraints. I am looking for a good home for my friend: 1994 Red Defender 90 ==================== o NAS Defender 90, # 1255 o 11K miles o Service is up to date o Oil changed regularly (3K miles) LR Extras (this baby is LOADED) --------- o Full front bull bar o Rear safari cage extension o Full canvas top o Bimini top (never used) o Running boards o Rear lamp guards o Rear tire cover w/LR logo o Air conditioner (it works really well !) o Rear seat o 5 spoke aluminum alloy wheels o Locking wheel nuts Non-LR Extras ------------- o LOJAK (lifetime coverage paid) (a $700 value) o Locking gas cap o Matching underseat waterproof Master Locks o Blind spot mirrors (attached to side mirrors) The car has been garaged since I bought it, and has had loving treatment. It has been off-road (Cape Cod, over the dunes), and has had the undercarriage seals attended to (per a thread on the LRO). It currently lives in the greater Boston area. LR List Price: $32,379 (excluding LOJAK) Asking Price: $26,000 (including everything) If you're interested, please contact me directly at one of the following: E-mail: usssbkpy@ibmmail.com Office Phone: (617) 985-9111 I'm in from 9 AM - 5 PM, Eastern time zone (Boston) This phone has voice mail - leave a message Home Phone: (617) 731-5559 This phone also has voice mail - leave a message Paul M. Brodie #======# '94 Red D90 |+--+| \ it can be yours ..... |+--+|---\___ usssbkpy@ibmmail.com | _ |D90|_ |} * * * ==(_)"""""(_)"" ------------------------------[ <- Message 41 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950915 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 14 Sep 1995 17:14:16 -0400 From: bbonner@mail.htp.com (Brian Bonner) Subject: Re: Discovery oil filter update >I bought a Rubber Maid 16 inch high tub to modify as an oil changing >and gush resistant Discovery tool and will report after the next >change. John B. Friedman I just finished making a device myself. I took a plastic gallon container(used to have gatoraide in it) and cut a 3x5" hole in the side. It is the type that is angled towards the hole. I think this might do it. I will let you know how it turns out on my next change. Soon. -=>Brian<=- ------------------------------[ <- Message 42 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950915 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 14 Sep 1995 17:14:42 -0400 From: bbonner@mail.htp.com (Brian Bonner) Subject: Re: Rover tire sightings >Over here in OZ we have a tyre made by McLeod called the Land Rover and >believe it or not, had Land Rover blazened on the tyre for all to see. Have >you ever seen a "Jeep" tyre!!!! :-) Actually yes. They are quite common. The Goodyear "Wrangler". Sorry. -=>Brian<=- ------------------------------[ <- Message 43 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950915 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 14 Sep 95 15:24:57 MST From: DEBROWN@SRP.GOV Subject: I have *NO* patience!! RR seat switch $86.10 (US) FROM: David Brown Internet: debrown@srp.gov Computer Graphics Specialist * Mapping Services & Engr Graphics PAB219 (602)236-3544 - Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486 SUBJECT: I have *NO* patience!! RR seat switch $86.10 (US) I couldn't wait! I ran out, bought the seat switch from Mercedes... and it works! I have full motions! And even attached the switch caps! Paid $86.10 plus tax. Part number: 0124-820-88-10 (drivers side). They listed this as the passenger side, which makes sense since the switch is mounted in the door on the Mercedes. One minor problem... The switch has an extra part for a headrest adjuster. I'll either cut this extra extension off, or drill a small hole in the cover to accommodate it. Maybe I could use this as a... a... well... I don't know! Anyone have a good idea for this? Do you suppose Mercedes owners have to clean/replace these every two years or so??? Dave (sitting in comfort) Brown. P.S. I really *do* have a job... I mean... it's not like I run around in the Rover all day. Honest! #=======# Never doubt that a small group of individuals |__|__|__\___ can change the world... indeed, it's the only | _| | |_ |} thing that ever has. "(_)""""""(_)" -Margaret Mead ------------------------------[ <- Message 44 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950915 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 14 Sep 95 16:10:15 EST From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org> Subject: Registration. Well just a quckie here. This morning I got the Landy registered in Washington DC. The computer barfed at "Land Rover" so I'm now driving around in a 1972 "other". FYI for insurance I use GEICO, the LR costs $344 every six months for full coverage, 100,000/300,000 and all that, collision too. That combined with the Honda (had collision pulled off that one) is like $1500/year. Not bad for 26 years old in a major city. Cheers David Bobeck 72 srIII swb petrol "Miss Lucky" (for now) dbobeck@ushmm.org ------------------------------[ <- Message 45 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950915 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Robert Watson (CNA) <a-robw@microsoft.com> Date: Thu, 14 Sep 95 16:04:33 TZ Subject: So it begins... Well, 2 things happened today that I'm afraid are a sign of things to come... a) The UPS man came today with some mail-order Rover Parts b) My wife was commented that I should ease up on the Rover parts for a while I expect to be seeing/hearing more of both in the future! -- Bob Watson '95 Discovery ------------------------------[ <- Message 46 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950915 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 15 Sep 1995 10:07:45 +1000 From: Lloyd Allison <lloyd@cs.monash.edu.au> Subject: RR wiring diagrams Chris Haslam has revised sheet 8 and added a sheet 9 of his 1988 RR wiring diagrams: http://www.cs.monash.edu.au/~lloyd/tildeLand-Rover/RR/Haslam/ Lloyd ------------------------------[ <- Message 47 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950915 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 15 Sep 1995 01:14:34 +0000 From: rnewell@dircon.co.uk (Russell Newell) Subject: Rear springs adjustment on SIII LWB I the Haynes manual in the supplement (ch.13) there is a description on how to check and adjust the ride height. I have followed this proceedure with the result that the passanger side is about 1/2 - 3/4" lower now. Have I got this right can I re-adjust the passenger height as well or did I simply loosen up the springs and the passenger side is worn? ------------------------------[ <- Message 48 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950915 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 14 Sep 1995 18:07:52 -0700 From: jimmyp@netcom.com (Jimmy Patrick) Subject: bleeding Cheers to all for all the suggestions on my bleeding problems. I hven't tried everything yet, but I will try everything until I have good pedal. If I can determine which bit of fidgeting fixes the problem, I will let you all know. It may be a cumulative fix though, as each sugggestion tried helps a little bit... Sooner or later I'll get there. cheers, jimmy -- Jimmy Patrick jimmyp@netcom.com ------------------------------[ <- Message 49 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950915 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: ecoethic@rcinet.com Date: Thu, 14 Sep 1995 21:34:15 -0400 Subject: Re: Personal Freedom Brian Bonner and Ron Taylor have recently discussed the issues of personal responsibility and societal costs for people following their individual desires when it comes to safetey, etc. I would like to offer my perspective on this: Quite often when I go Rovering I am alone, or at least not with other vehicles. This might be criticized from a safety standpoint, as good procedure would be to travel in a group so that we could help one another when problems arise. I prefer to travel alone, nonetheless, for I value my privacy, I value my trust in my Rover, and I prefer to be in situations where my wits alone will see me through. Self-suficientcy is not achieved by relying on others to solve our problems. Wisdom and good judgement are honed by solving tough situations independently. Society might have to pay higher insurance premiums because of the foolish actions of others and because of true accidents that no one can predict, but so be it. I would not want to see personal freedom curtailed to the extent that we lose the ability to choose our course of life, and I sure do not want to lose my ability to cruise in my Rover, alone. I suspect many divers, hikers, skiers, motorcyclists, etc. feel the same way. As for the rest of society who never engage in anything risky, well, get a life! Walt Pokines Tipp City, Ohio Series Rover Fan ------------------------------[ <- Message 50 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950915 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 14 Sep 1995 21:39:52 -0500 (EST) From: Duncan Brown <DB@CHO004.CHO.GE.COM> Subject: Re: So it begins... Bob, > Well, 2 things happened today that I'm afraid are a sign of things to come... > a) The UPS man came today with some mail-order Rover Parts > b) My wife was commented that I should ease up on the Rover parts for a while > I expect to be seeing/hearing more of both in the future! My wife has adopted sort of a "don't ask don't tell" policy with regards to the Rover. (Maybe she's afraid of the answer if she asks me to choose between her or it, heh heh heh?) Surprisingly, this included the period leading up to my trip to VT to drop a rebuilt engine in the beast. Unfortunately, my credit card company called and left a message on our home voice mail yesterday, saying they wanted me to call back and confirm these outrageously high recent charges from Rovers North. Even more unfortunately, they listed the dates AND AMOUNTS. Even more unfortunately still, my wife was the one who first heard the message....we'll see if I live out the year, heh heh heh... Duncan ------------------------------[ <- Message 51 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950915 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com> Date: 14 Sep 95 21:38:23 EDT Subject: Spongy pedal - OK when the rear is clamped off? Well this is the problem. My brakes are in two-pump mode. I calmp off the rar flex, and the pedal becomes rock-hard and works perfectly. I have bled 2 liters of fluid through the rear brake culinders to no avail (pressure-fed at 15PSI). This happens even with the brake shoes locked to the drums by the adjusters. My thought is that I have a hung/stuck piston in one of my cylinders. Any opinions or sage advice? -ajr ------------------------------[ <- Message 52 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950915 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 14 Sep 1995 20:53:57 -0700 From: jjbpears@ix.netcom.com (Jeremy Bartlett) Subject: 109 Shock Measurements Needed Can anyone out there with a 109 with the wheels on do me a favor and measure the distance on the rear shock from the top bolt to the base of the shock at the start of the lower bolt (on a Genuine shock)? I need this distance to correctly size aftermarket shocks (Ranchos) and Mathilda (the 109 in question) is current sans wheels pending "reshoeing". Many thanks for your help. Cheers, Jeremy ------------------------------[ <- Message 53 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950915 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Subject: Re: New LR owner Date: Thu, 14 Sep 1995 20:56:50 -0700 From: Benjamin Allan Smith <bens@archimedes.vislab.navy.mil> In message <199509140938.EAA28020@butler.uk.stratus.com>you wrote: > 1) I'm 6' 4" and find that the seating is way too close to drive in > comfort (& safety!). The only half way decent solution is to remove [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)] > arrangement can be moved back approx. 6 inches ? or are there any > ideas/suggestions to help save my back ! I too am 6' 4" and somehow I've learned to deal with the Land Rover legroom on my SIII. (and I've done 3000 mile trips in the Rover, spending 15+ hours in the driver's seat per day. I find the driving area to be less cramped than many newer compact cars (I rented a Probe once and it drove me nuts). The thing that bugs me the most is how low the window is. (If I sit with a straight back, my vision is limited to 15 feet in front of the Rover). So I slouch. I did find it useful to remove the sun visors, which adds another 1/2" to 1" of vision on the top of the windscreen. Ben ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Benjamin Smith------------bens@vislab.navy.mil---------1972 Land Rover SIII 88 Science Applications International Corporation Naval Air Warfare Center, Weapons Division, China Lake "...If I were running such a contest, I would specifically eliminate any entry from Ben involving driving the [Land] Rover anywhere. He'd drive it up the Amazon basin for a half can of Jolt and a stale cookie..." --Kevin Archie ------------------------------[ <- Message 54 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950915 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 14 Sep 1995 21:01:14 -0700 From: jjbpears@ix.netcom.com (Jeremy Bartlett) Subject: Quick and Easy LR dating ? Nick and anyone else interested, I just came across a new (at least to me) way of determining pretty closely the age of a Series drum brake equipped LR (is there any other kind :) ). The exterior of the drum has the date of manufacture cast into rim in the following format: day - month - year (e.g., 17 3 65 = March 17, 1965). This appears to pre-date the actual date of formal completion of manufactur by only 2-3 weeks. This information is based on Mathilda, a 1965 SIIA 109 SW. Land Rover has documented that she was "born" on April 9, 1965. Her brake drums show the above March dates. This could make determining the age of the vehicle a relatively accurate and quick job. Just remove a couple of wheels. Cheers, Jeremy Bartlett P.S. A piece of trivia. Three of Mathilda's wheels have the March date, but one has a July date, 3 months following her month of manufacture and shipping to the US. Hmmm... wonder what broke on the ship? :) ------------------------------[ <- Message 55 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950915 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: LANDROVER@delphi.com Date: Fri, 15 Sep 1995 00:04:23 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: When IS Stowe, anyway? Alan Ritcher wakes up and asks... > Deities willing, I may be able to make Stowe. ANy ideas as to when it is? Good Lord man.. Sept 15,16,17!!! See ya there! Cheers Mike ------------------------------[ <- Message 56 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950915 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: LANDROVER@delphi.com Date: Fri, 15 Sep 1995 00:04:57 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: What exactly IS double-clutching, an Alan... Double-clutching is a method to get the transmission speed syncronized with the engine speed as you change gears. The procedure basically is: 1 - Push in the clutch 2 - Put the tranny in neutral 3 - Let out the clutch 4 - play with the throttle * 5 - push in the clutch 6 - change to the next gear 7 - let out the clutch Step 4 requires a bit of thought. If you are upshifting, the engine speed will be decreasing for the same wheel speed, so you want to let off on the throttle. If you are downshifting, the engine will be speeding up, so you need to "blip" the throttle. The time between steps 3 and 5 allow the transmission to slow down or speed up so that when you do step 6, the gears engage smoothly. Cheers Mike ------------------------------[ <- Message 57 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950915 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 14 Sep 1995 21:26:02 -0700 (PDT) From: "John C. White III" <jcwhite3@well.com> Subject: Re: So it begins... Um, I still a bit of a newbie to Rovering. If, for whatever reason, an LRO meets and untimely end, is it customery for the rest of us to give him a Rover funeral a la Hell's Angels funerals? You know, lots and lots of Land Rovers escorting the coffin which is, of course, being carried by a shiney (!) black Land Rover hearse. On Thu, 14 Sep 1995, Duncan Brown wrote: > To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net > Bob, [ truncated by lro-digester (was 26 lines)] > the message....we'll see if I live out the year, heh heh heh... > Duncan ------------------------------[ <- Message 58 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950915 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 28 Mar 95 20:16:45 PST From: Tony@hawtec.demon.co.uk Subject: RE: Green Oil Pressure Light IIA The owners' manual for the IIA states that the warning light may com on when the engine is sidling, but only to worry if it comes on during normal use. I drove my Rover for several years/miles like this without anything nasty happening, but it never seemed right to me. What do others think? ------------------------------------- Tony Chapman HAWTEC Tel: +44 (0)1905 723200 Haswell House Fax: +44 (0)1905 613338 Saint Nicholas Street Mobile: 0973 316835 Worcester WR1 1UW E-mail: Tony@hawtec.demon.co.uk Date: 03/28/95 Time: 20:16:45 This message was sent by Chameleon ------------------------------------- ------------------------------[ <- Message 59 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950915 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 28 Mar 95 20:41:13 PST From: Tony@hawtec.demon.co.uk Subject: RE: Rear Hub Oil Seals Sorry, but I don't know a "commercial" part number for these. However here in the UK you can buy them under Unipart number GHS202. Its the same part, indeed this was the "official" part until Land Rover split its parts operation from that of Rover group and Unipart. You can often buy Unipart items at a discount and their list price seems lower than for the same part in a Land Rover bag or box. This applies to many generic parts such as brake cylinders, etc. ------------------------------------- Tony Chapman HAWTEC Tel: +44 (0)1905 723200 Haswell House Fax: +44 (0)1905 613338 Saint Nicholas Street Mobile: 0973 316835 Worcester WR1 1UW E-mail: Tony@hawtec.demon.co.uk Date: 03/28/95 Time: 20:41:13 This message was sent by Chameleon ------------------------------------- ------------------------------[ <- Message 60 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950915 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
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