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From: sreddock@VNET.IBM.COM
Date: Tue, 12 Sep 95 09:20:38 BST
Subject: V6

Trefor,  the gearbox used in the conversion is the standard Land Rover series
3 lump. If you have one the 2a is stronger, but otherwise fits in the same
way.  The conversion kit comes with a bell housing adaptor to mate the gearbox
casing to the engine and a spigot bush to mount the clutch to the gearbox input
shaft.  I can't remember which vehicle the flywheel/clutch assembly comes from
but I have a feeling it is a mix of both vehicles.  I will try and remember to
check tonight.

As far a brakes go I have fitted 11 inch drums (and the other bits!) from
a long wheel base.  Before I fitted them I didn't really have any problems with
the 10 inch drums.  Stopping the tyres turning was never a problem!

I have since changed my Land Rover branded tyres for a set of Norsman Armstrong
All Terrains, which I would have described as more like a Trac-Edge tread
than an All-Terrain.  These seem to have much more grip than the Land Rover
branded ones, which were an All-Terrain type tread.  The third gear wheel spins
seem to have stopped now as well.  I suspect that these tyres would have
stressed the 10 inch drums a bit more.

I was cursing the cut I gained in the side wall at the time as well, but the
increase in grip is very significant, as should the grip off road be as the
tread pattern in more aggressive.

If you (or anybody else) would like a closer look at the installation they
are welcome to have a look at mine before they part with the cash for one
of their own.  I live in Fareham, near Portsmouth (England, not VA).

Steve Reddock, Lightweight V6

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 Sep 1995 20:19:48 +1000
From: Lloyd Allison <lloyd@cs.monash.edu.au>
Subject: LT95

The SIII-stage-1 manual says GTX (or equivalent) in the LT95 gearbox
AND in the transfer case too.  The army uses FMX in the LT95 transfer
case; I have their manual here in front of me.

I am v. curious to know if hypoy is just "not necessary" in the LT95
or actually harmful.

Also, stage-1:  toe-OUT  0.046 to 0.093 in (1.2 to 2.4 mm)
                full-time 4WD is like front-wheel drive.

Lloyd

------------------------------

From: Richard Jones <rich@apricot.mee.com>
Subject: Defender 90 SW - USA
Date: Tue, 12 Sep 1995 10:55:23 +0100 (BST)

Francis J. Twarog writes:	
> 	BTW - Saw a really nice example of a Monteverdi Range Rover at Rovers 
> 	North today (they were the company that produced conversions from 2 to 4 
> 	doors in the early, pre-production 1980s RRs) as well as a beat-upon 
> 	Camel Disco.  Look out for Chris Stark's 1950 80" Series 1 at the British 
> 	Invasion - still early enough to have the lights behind the grill - LHD too!

Hi,

Is there any chance you could get me the chassis number (in particular, and any other
info such as colour, licence number, history, etc, that may be available) of the 
Monteverdi?  We are compiling a Monteverdi list similar to the Velar list at

	URL	http://www.apricot.co.uk/rel3/directory/rrr/velar.html
	
but unlike the Velar list, there is no definative list of how many Monteverdi's
were built (niether Land Rover or Monteverdi seem to have complete records).  The
Monteverdi list as it is should appear as

	URL	http://www.apricot.co.uk/rel3/directory/rrr/monteverdi.html
	
towards the end of this week.

Regards

	Rick
__ 
  _ __              Apricot Computer Limited
 ' )  )      /      3500 Parkside                 Tel:   (+44) 121 717 7171
  /--' o _. /_      Birmingham Business Park      Fax:   (+44) 121 717 0123
 /  <_<_(__/ <_     BIRMINGHAM  B37 7YS
 Richard Jones      United Kingdom                Email: richardj@apricot.co.uk 

------------------------------

From: Richard Jones <rich@apricot.mee.com>
Subject: Isuzu 4BD1
Date: Tue, 12 Sep 1995 11:27:12 +0100 (BST)

Lloyd Allison writes:
> 	I have no first hand experience of the Isuzu, but I have heard remarks like
> [...]	
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> 	which one?) for big-engine transplants, so maybe it has a little more
> 	strength?

I have a friend who has a 2.8 (I believe) non intercooled Isuzu Turbo diesel engine
in his Range Rover.  It started out with a 4-speed box, currently has the long stick
5-speed, and is probably going to be changed again for the Turbo D (or Tdi) short
stick box (sorry model numbers are beyond me today - been on holiday for a few days,
and returned to 1361 mail messages!).

Anyway back to the story, 4-speed is okay for pulling away, but leads to noisy 
crusing and I believe higher fuel consumption than the 5-speed.  The 5-speed is okay 
once the Turbo is spinning, but it will not pull off in first from a standing start
at the botton of the hill (but the Turbo D or Tdi box should fix that with a lower 
first gear than V-8 box), requires low range to get it moving.  However the 5-speed box 
suits the engine much better than the 4-speed once the Turbo is wound up.
__ 
  _ __              Apricot Computer Limited
 ' )  )      /      3500 Parkside                 Tel:   (+44) 121 717 7171
  /--' o _. /_      Birmingham Business Park      Fax:   (+44) 121 717 0123
 /  <_<_(__/ <_     BIRMINGHAM  B37 7YS
 Richard Jones      United Kingdom                Email: richardj@apricot.co.uk 

------------------------------

Date:     Tue, 12 Sep 95 7:42:12 EDT (1142Z)
From: LTC Larry Smith <smithla@arngrc-emh2.army.mil>
Subject:  Rear Hub Oil Seals

All,

Does anyone have the "commercial equivalent" part number(s) for rear axle hub 
oil seals (Part Number RTC3510)?  I'd prefer double lipped seals, if possible.
Yes, I know, I did a SPOTS and changed the seals without the distance piece the
last time, and now I'm getting seepage.  Trying to get thru inspection in a 
hurry.  Now I know better!

Second, does anyone one have experience with Slick 50 causing more seepage in
gearboxes than without?  Added S50 at the last change, and the diffs, trans,
and xfer all seem to be a bit wetter.  The S50 does make the boxes quieter
though.

Thanks for your help.

Regards,

Larry

------------------------------

From: Trefor Delve <delve1t@nectech.co.uk>
Subject: V6 Bits and Bobs
Date: Tue, 12 Sep 95 13:44:00 GMT

Steve,

Thanks for the reply and the information.  I may take you up on the offer to 
view your landrover sometime as I now live in Reading so Portsmouth is not 
too far away.

As I said in my first posting, I have the option of buying a 3.0L V6 SWB 
SII.  The situation has now become a little more complicated.

I now have the option of buying a 3.5L V8 LWB SIII for a sensible price. 
 This one needs some work (rusty outriggers) but is basically sound.  In its 
favour is that it is newer and an original fitment.  Against it is the fact 
that it is a LWB.  Any thoughts ?.

Trefor.
tdelve@nectech.co.uk

------------------------------

From: Mr Ian Stuart <Ian.Stuart@ed.ac.uk>
Date:          Tue, 12 Sep 1995 14:12:00 +0000
Subject:       Re: V6 Bits and Bobs

On 12 Sep 95, Trefor Delve wrote:

> I now have the option of buying a 3.5L V8 LWB SIII for a sensible
> price. This one needs some work (rusty outriggers) but is basically
> sound.  In its favour is that it is newer and an original fitment. 
> Against it is the fact that it is a LWB.  Any thoughts ?. 
It depends on the intended use.. If it's to be a trials/competition 
machine, go for the SWB, if it's for travelling and non-competitive 
offroad work, go for the LWB!

The extra 21" in the wheelbase makes a huge difference in driving comfort 
- the undulations in the route are evened out and the vehicle doesn't jump 
about in the same chaotic way.
The other advantage is that insurers understand the 109 stage 1!

The only downside is fuel consumption - the V8 is much thirstier that the 
newer V6.

Just my 2p

     ----** Ian Stuart (Computing Officer)        +44 31 650 6205
Royal (Dick) School of Veterinary Studies, Edinburgh University. 
 <http://www.vet.ed.ac.uk/> or <http://www.tardis.ed.ac.uk/~kiz/>

------------------------------

From: Andrew Grafton <A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: Baby Bottle Heaters
Date: Tue, 12 Sep 95 14:53:56 BST

>                 Baby bottle heater.Damn good idea! Details,costs,methods
                 please?For those of us without garages etc?

> The baby bottle heater was left over after the kids stopped being babies,
[snippety]
> Total cost less than =A320.00, the one I had took about 4 amps at 12 volt so
> the power of the thing is quite low but with an old blanket over the engine
> and radiator overnight in winter my water system did not freeze up. The

Just a word of warning in the old amperage front - Even those really 
big batteries like us Oily Wadders have only hold a maximum of 
between 100 and 120Ah of charge (unless you've installed one from
an earthmover or similar!).  Some of the more weedy petrol ones
I've seen clock in at about 80Ah or less.

If you leave the bottle heater on for 10 hours (say), then your
120Ah (I selected this 'cause it is the best case...)  battery 
will be about 1/3 drained - starting a diesel with the charge 
like that may be quite difficult, and could be damaging to the
battery.  Repeated deep-ish discharges, which could be caused
when using a lower capacity battery for the same job, will
definitely damage the battery.

Anyone know what is a safe discharge level for 'normal' auto
batteries?  How does that compare to the deep discharge camper
models?  By 'safe' I mean the level to which you can discharge 
them repeatedly without damage.

This is on my mind at the moment because I significantly discharged
my 110Ah battery (made starting painful) by leaving a 'fridge plugged
in pulling 6.5A for 6 hours...

All the best,

Andy
A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 Sep 1995 06:57:38 -0700
From: burns@lint.cisco.com (Russell burns)
Subject: Re: Environmental Abuse (Was: Rover Abuse)

>To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net
>At 08:58 PM 11/09/95 -0700, you wrote:
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)]
>>Let's all plan on picking up trash whenever we're out and about!
>I'll second that!
Last March, as I was wandering in the Canyon Lands in Utah, I
came upon a portion to the  trail, that reminded me of Detroit.
It seems that some one had broke a rear window, and left the glass
all over the trail. Since I dislike being reminded of Detroit,
I swepted up all the glass I could find. I ended up with about
100 lbs of glass, and sand which i put in a plastic bag inside of
my dirty clothes bag. Returning to the Ranger Station, I asked
where they would like me to deposit my 100lbs of glass, and sand.
The promply responded "Moab", which happened to be 70 miles away.
I rather curtly explained, that while I was nice enought to clean 
the trail, displace my dirty clothes, I was not going to haul this
cargo to MOAB. I would just dump it in the trash out side, and let
the Park service deal with 100 lbs of glass and sand in a 20lbs
plastic bag. The Ranger then hurried to the back room, and returned
with another female ranger carrying a gun. Her first question was,
"Why did you pick up the sand". Gun, or no gun I was getting tired
of this mess, and just wanted to get out side. So I explained, that
while I was willing to sweep up the glass from the trail, I was
unwilling to sift the glass from the sand. But since I understood
how precious 50 lbs of sand was to the canyonlands,if the park
service would sift out the Glass, I would return the sand.
After giving it careful thought, the lady park ranger with a
gun, made a mountionous decision, and decided that the park
wouldn't miss the 50lbs of sand this time. But she would have
to fill out a felony litter report on the truck which left the
glass. Luckly my  window was still intact, and she had to write
it up for an unknow truck. 
As I left, I was wondering what the fine was for stealing 50 lbs
of sand, but thought I better not ask as I was sure there was
another 50lbs of sand in my clothes, car, and intestines....

Russ Burns
94-d90
91-R-rover 
Russ Burns________________________________________________________________
CiscoSystems

------------------------------

From: "Walter C. Swain" <wcswain@s101dcascr.wr.usgs.gov>
Subject: Re: V6 Bits and Bobs
Date: Tue, 12 Sep 1995 07:33:14 -0700 (PDT)

>>>>> Mr Ian Stuart writes:

> The only downside is fuel consumption - the V8 is much thirstier that the 
> newer V6.

There is a lot of discussion about "the V6" lately.  Can anybody 
enlighten me on the point of just exactly what V6 this is?  Often 
specified as the 3.0 l V6.

Thanks

Walter Swain      1967 IIA 109 Safari SW, petrol
Davis, CA         1988 Range Rover

------------------------------

From: Grahame.Harden@BRI.NRC.CA
Date: Tue, 12 Sep 1995 10:35:34 -0400
Subject: Fans

> How does the fan save money?

Quite simply! Electric fans run only when they have to.... less
load on the poor old fan-belt so you can slacken that off and
save money on bearings too. The real great advantage is in the warm up,
etc... my experiences are simply that removing the fan is essential.
However, I wouldn't if I was ploughing a field all day, driving
up tp Cape York, or spending all day parked on the M25.
My experience also is limited to the old diesel, which *never* seems
to have a thermal problem, apart from generating it.

Spending a few years in Finland (Oulu, yes, that far up), the fan never
came on! Ploughing through the forests, and other mayhem, still had
no real heat coming through. I had no engine block heater, just a 
sump of 5/30 oil, a bloody large battery and spare heater plugs!
Always went no problem at -40C. 

Just a warning, when I did get back to 'reality', the fan rattled for
ages on the M25... taking out the alternator (yeh, it was 15 years young).
Something to bear in mind if you fit one, do ensure that the old Joe
16ACR is not on life support. I found a huge thing to take it's place,
lots of alternator space on the 2286, so that problem will not happen again.

The one really useful thing with these electriv things is that when the
old heap is up to her grill in deep water, you haven't got a mechanical
fan blasting water everywhere! Especially a Good Idea if you have one
of the 'proper' petrol engines with that darling lucas distributor in the
breeze.

Grahame

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 Sep 1995 08:04:06 -0800
From: greg@triteal.com (Greg White)
Subject: 65 Series Two Fender Wanted

I'm in need of a new old stock Right Hand Side (US Passenger) front
fender(for my 1965 Series II A restoration project.  I've got the new side
panel, but need the top & inner wing panel assembly.

Anyone out their know of anyone who will part with one?  I'll pay a
reasonable price.

Thanks in advance,

Greg White

Gregory Jay White                         (619) 930-2077 Phone, EXT 5515
TriTeal Corporation                       (619) 930-2081 FAX
2011 Palomar Airport Road, Suite 200      EMAIL: greg.white@triteal.com
Carlsbad, CA  92009-1431                  WWW:    http://www.triteal.com/

------------------------------

From: Sanna@aol.com
Date: Tue, 12 Sep 1995 11:24:40 -0400
Subject: Re: Rusty D90s in Wisconsin?

>And speaking of cold temperatures, does anyone have experience with cold
starting these V8s? 

I just turn the key.  I think my '89 RR V8 is similar to your D90.  Although
at -30, the starter's really churning through that thick oil and it takes a
while for the heater to kick in.  The battery and anti-freeze are the most
crucial elements.

By the way, on the soft top in winter question.  My rag-top IIa has gone
through a couple dozen Wisconsin winters and has had no problems.  The canvas
(real canvas on Lullubelle) deteriorates from the sun and summers, not the
cold.  In 25 years I have bought about 4 or 5 tops.  The only winter failure
I've had is when the snow load took out a sun-rotted top some years ago.
 What a way to wake up in the morning!  Try a foot of snow in your lap along
with your morning coffee.  Brrrr..

Since I put a Mansfield heater in Lullubelle, she's been warm enough, even
with all the air leaks.  If you've got a decent heater in your D90, you'll do
fine.  When my son & I drove Lullubelle out to Oregon last January, we had to
plow through some very cold weather (-13 high in the Dakotas).  Most of our
body parts where nice & toasty with the Mansfield, except for a few that got
frostbitten from the sub-zero drafts (probably in the -40 to -60 wind chill
at road speed).  We got some of those chemical heat packs that ice fishermen
use in Mobridge SD.  By strategically placing them on your temples & forehead
under hat, on your wrist under the cuff, inside your gloves, and a few other
strategic places, we survived. 

You'll do fine in Wisconsin.  The local diet of beer, bratwurst (if your not
from WI you've never had a real one), and deep-fried cheese curds helps too.

Tony

------------------------------

From: Mr Ian Stuart <Ian.Stuart@ed.ac.uk>
Date:          Tue, 12 Sep 1995 16:18:03 +0000
Subject:       Re: V6 Bits and Bobs

On 12 Sep 95, Walter C. Swain wrote:

> >>>>> Mr Ian Stuart writes:
> > The only downside is fuel consumption - the V8 is much thirstier that
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
> enlighten me on the point of just exactly what V6 this is?  Often 
> specified as the 3.0 l V6.
The ford V6 engine (as fitted to certain Lightweights)

     ----** Ian Stuart (Computing Officer)        +44 31 650 6205
Royal (Dick) School of Veterinary Studies, Edinburgh University. 
 <http://www.vet.ed.ac.uk/> or <http://www.tardis.ed.ac.uk/~kiz/>

------------------------------

From: Trefor Delve <delve1t@nectech.co.uk>
Subject: The V6 referred to in V6 bits and bobs
Date: Tue, 12 Sep 95 16:24:00 GMT

Walter,

The V6 being referred to is the 3.0L V6 Ford engine which I believe is 
called (at least in the UK) the Essex engine.  The V6 Steve Reddock referred 
to in his posting was the 2.8 injection which is similar to the Essex engine 
but has different heads (and injection not surprisingly).

Trefor.
tdelve@nectech.co.uk

------------------------------

From: hlapa@Zeus.signalcorp.com
Date: Tue, 12 Sep 95 11:39:33 EST
Subject: Re[2]: Environmental Abuse (Was: Rover Abuse)

Russell,

Hide your wife and baby!  (These 2 Rangers will no doubt be back from China 
soon.)

And all you other dangerous sand-stealers -- you will be tracked down, so don't 
leave tracks, i.e., tread lightly.

Hank
> Subject: Re: Environmental Abuse (Was: Rover Abuse)
> Author:  burns@lint.cisco.com (Russell burns) at Zeus

	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 58 lines)]
> Russ Burns________________________________________________________________ 
> CiscoSystems

------------------------------

From: PHLY4CHAR@aol.com
Date: Tue, 12 Sep 1995 12:00:37 -0400
Subject: Re: 1995 Discovery Growling Noise

CpaulP@aol.com wrote:
>My 1995 Discovery 5 Speed has been making an intermittent "growling" noise.
It is very difficult to pin down exactly when or why this happens. It only
does this for a short time and then the engine noise returns to its normal
sound.  It seems to be most noticeable in gears 1 & 2.  Has anyone else
experience this and can you advise what it is. ...

I have had perhaps the same problem with my 1995 AUTOMATIC Discovery since
about 2,500 miles (now at 15,000 miles).  As referred to previously on LRODD
as "Roaring", I have pinned it down to occurring only upon the initial
movement of the vehicle and continuing variably for the first mile or so, but
only after the vehicle has sat for some time.  Sometimes that could be a
stoplight, other times it takes sitting for hours.  It is not related to
motor speed, gear shifting or outside temperature. The clearest example of
the phenomena occurs if I start in first gear on a level road keeping at a
constant RPM.  The gearbox/engine/? makes an obvious, loud roar for a period
and then suddenly quiets to its normal condition.  

I have had the problem investigated by two dealers, several times.  The first
two times at the shops they could find nothing wrong. Apparently a lot of
suburban owners aren't used to normal Discovery noises and I suppose they
dismissed me as a LR newbie. For the most recent visit I took them on a test
drive and they did hear the roar and replaced the viscous fan coupling.
 Unfortunately, being an erratic problem, it seemed OK at first but then it
was right back.  I'm also interested in anyone's real solution and causal
theories.  I have become really concerned about the longevity of my drive
components.  
             Bob Jameson,       Pennsylvania, USA

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 Sep 1995 12:06:44 -0500 (EST)
From: Duncan Brown <DB@CHO004.CHO.GE.COM>
Subject: Series II fenders

Greg,

> I'm in need of a new old stock Right Hand Side (US Passenger) front
> fender(for my 1965 Series II A restoration project.  I've got the new side
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> Anyone out their know of anyone who will part with one?  I'll pay a
> reasonable price.

    Rovers North always seems to run across stuff like this, you might
    ask them.  Too bad you're not looking for the left side; when I was
    up there last week, they had TWO of them sitting on the shelf. 
    Looked pretty dusty, like they'd been there a while...

    Duncan

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date:          Tue, 12 Sep 1995 11:29:02 GMT -0600
Subject:       Re: Baby Bottle Heaters

Andrew Grafton asks about discharging batteries.
Andy,
As far as I know, and my experience, an occasional discharge, even 
total, will not significantly harm a regular auto battery. By 
significant, I mean I could never tell. However, repeated discharges 
will, that's what the marine batteries are for and they are designed 
differently. I used one as my sole battery for around 8 years. I had 
bought it for a winch battery and ended up using it alone, so it got 
alot of use by the winch also. I just replaced it this spring with 
another one.
As for an engine heater, ZeroStat (don't know if they're in the UK) 
makes a propane fired cooling system heater for overnight heating. 
It's pretty compact, about 2" dia x 7-9" high. But you'll need a 
small propane tank mounted somewhere.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date:          Tue, 12 Sep 1995 11:38:06 GMT -0600
Subject:       Re: Rear Hub Oil Seals

Larry Smith asks about hub seals for ...(what? I'm assuming a series)
National 410694
Chicago Rawhde 23152

I can't remember if these are the double lip or not. If they aren't, 
the dealer can check the specs and give you the double lip eqivalent.

A double lip isn't designed to better keep in the lubricant exactly. 
The extra lip is designed to keep abrasive material from damaging the 
lube retaining lip.
Check your distance piece on the stub axle, many are bad and 
contribute to leaking seals. the are easy to replace.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 Sep 1995 12:39:55 -0500 (EST)
From: Duncan Brown <DB@CHO004.CHO.GE.COM>
Subject: Camel Trophy details

All,
    Having been away for a week, I had a lot of e-mail to plow through. 
    I remember seeing one with details about tryouts for the 1996 Camel
    Trophy, and darned if I didn't delete it, apparently.  Would
    someone mind reposting that, or mailing me a copy directly?  (It's
    not for me, it's for someone else.  Though now that I think about
    it, leaving my job for a few months has a certain appeal if they'd
    let me!!)

    Thanks,
    Duncan

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 Sep 1995 09:44:23 -0700
From: burns@lint.cisco.com (Russell burns)
Subject: Re: 1995 Discovery Growling Noise

>aren't used to normal Discovery noises and I suppose they
>dismissed me as a LR newbie. For the most recent visit I took them on a test
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)]
>components.  
>             Bob Jameson,       Pennsylvania, USA

I was going to suggest that it might be the fan.
If it only happens when the engine is started hot,
it might be the fan being engaged. After it runs
a few minutes it would cool down and disengage.
Both of my 3.9 landies roar when the fan engages.

Russ Burns
D-90
R-ROver
>aren't used to normal Discovery noises and I suppose they
Russ Burns________________________________________________________________
CiscoSystems

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date:          Tue, 12 Sep 1995 12:11:51 GMT -0600
Subject:       diesel injection pumps

The CAV rotory pumps (actually any rotory pump) will lock up if they  
get wet after being at operational temp. At least so I'm told by an 
injection shop. Has anyone ever had this problem on a Land Rover?

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

Subject: RE: Rusty D90s in Wisconsin?
From: skidmore@mail02.mitre.org (William E. Skidmore)
Date: Tue, 12 Sep 95 13:46:27 -0400

JEPurnell@aol writes:

>Can anyone tell me if there are rust-prone spots on the D90s that I can
>protect this coming winter?  Frame points?  I guess I am ok with the body,
>being aluminium?  Is undercoating suggested?

Last fall, Rover's North provided info in their newsletter about areas that 
were susceptible to rust on the D90.  I'll try to fish it out and respost 
later.

>Also, I'm beginning to wonder if I should've gotten the hard top instead of
>the soft (didn't know I was moving when I bought it).  Can the soft tops
>survive the snow, and freezing temperatures?  (and if it can, can *I* survive
>with the soft top, heh heh.)

I have no doubt that the Tickford can withstand the cold.  I went through the 
deep freeze in Virginia (in VIRGINIA?) with it and the only thing I noticed is 
that, as expected, it gets very stiff, especially the plastic windows.  In 
extreme cold (like around minus 20 or worse), I'd expect these windows to 
potentially become brittle, so be careful!  If the top fails, LRNA is offering 
a reconditioned replacement (re: bad zippers, etc.) where they basically 
replace the windows with thicker plastic, and the zippers with heavy YKK-type 
(haven't broke a zipper since I got the reconditioned one!).
As for you surviving the freezing temps, my advice is to dress warmly, and if 
the wind is blowing hard, try using a leather snowmobile mask with a parka 
hood!  The heater may just have enough to keep the interior above freezing, 
but leakage through the canvas is considerable, and gets much worse when the 
wind blows.

>And speaking of cold temperatures, does anyone have experience with cold
>starting these V8s?  Anything to do special? A bit thinner oil to help the
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
>here, I wonder if the radiator bras that block off air are necessary for the
>aluminum engine to stay warm?

The engines tend to run rough until warmed up.  I invested in the RN radiator 
muff, and not only was rewarded with a smoother running engine, but also more 
(not much!) cabin heat.  I would've been happy just putting a sheet of 
cardboard in from of the radiator, but my SO said NO!

Bill Skidmore

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 Sep 95 11:25:24 -0700
Subject: s2 brakes
From: Andre_Maier@mindlink.bc.ca (Andre Maier)

it sounds like you have a slow bypass in your master.clamp of all the
rubber brake lines with a proper brake hose clamp or something similar so
as not to mark or cut the lines and see if your brakes pump up.if they do
then leave it for a while and check back later.if the pressure has gone
down then you have a leak in the junction or the metal lines going into the
rubber ones or on your metal lines out of the master,and lastly a by
passing master.if your lines are rusty then replace them before they blow
for saftey sake.
any swollen rubber in the braking system indicates contamination and must
be dealt with right away before you loose all your brakes.

------------------------------

From: Robert Watson (CNA) <a-robw@microsoft.com>
Date: Tue, 12 Sep 95 11:14:28 TZ
Subject: re: Baby Bottle Heaters

Anyone know what is a safe discharge level for 'normal' auto  
batteries?  How does that compare to the deep discharge camper  models? 
 By 'safe' I mean the level to which you can discharge  them repeatedly 
without damage.
---------
I asked a battery dealer what the difference between a "normal" battery 
and a "deep discharge" battery was and got this explanation:

"Deep Discharge" batteries have thicker plates than "normal" batteries. 
Each time you discharge a lead-acid battery, then re-charge it you lose 
some plate material so that deep-discharge batteries are able to endure 
this type of use longer than "normal" batteries. Normal batteries are 
designed to provide starting power (a brief discharge) and then after 
being recharged, they don't do much but filter the alternator which 
supplies all the electrical needs while the engine is running. Since 
they don't discharge very deeply, very often, they don't consume their 
plates very fast.

So a few deep discharges won't noticibly harm the battery, but repeated 
deep discharges will cause a normal battery to wear out prematurely.
 

------------------------------

Date: 12 Sep 95 14:44:26 EDT
From: Mark Talbot <71035.3215@acgw01.compuserve.com>
Subject: Paint code

I'm looking for the Rover Paint code for Marine BLUE, anyone know it ?

Mark

------------------------------

From: hlapa@Zeus.signalcorp.com
Date: Tue, 12 Sep 95 15:09:08 EST
Subject: Crush Washers -- Not What They Used to Be

Just picked up a few copper "crush washers" for the oil pan 
drain plug on a 3.9 V8i.  They are supposed to be changed 
every time the plug is removed/reinstalled.

Those of us with Series vehs are familiar with the old, 
truly deforming copper crush washer that had an airgap in 
the cross-section which flattened out as the plug got tight. 
 Well, the ones for new vehicles are die-cut out of copper 
alloy sheet and are "solid."  I was at first a bit 
concerned, but they do bend under firm finger pressure, and 
the new Disco isn't leaking from the plug, so I guess 
they're OK.  I *do* think however, that they probably 
require a bit more torque than I'd apply to the Series or a 
veh with a non-metallic washer.  I also hope the old-style 
ones haven't been replaced in the stock system by these new 
ones as an equal substitute

Regards,
Hank.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Sep 1995 11:42:01 -0800
From: jfhess@ucdavis.edu (John Hess)
Subject: book wanted

I'm sorry to bomb the list but I can't see any other way to reach everyone
"across the pond".  I'm looking for the following book and have had no luck
when contacting used book stores in the US.  If anyone could inquire at a
local bookshop or call the automobile book shop in London (off lester
square, sorry for the spelling)  I would appreciate it.

Owen, Roderic.
     Roddy Owen's Africa: a journey by Land-Rover across the seventy-year gap
   between a pioneer in Africa and his great-nephew.  Abingdon (Berks.),
   Marcham Manor P., 1967 [i.e. 1968].

John F. Hess, PhD                   Phone me 916 752 8420
Dept of Cell Bio. and Hum. Anat.    FAX me (ask first)
University of Calif
Davis, CA                           Email me jfhess@ucdavis.edu

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 Sep 1995 12:23:23 -0700
From: jimmyp@netcom.com (Jimmy Patrick)
Subject: I'm bleeding and can't stop...

I know that we've probably been over this one thousands of times but....

Mabel's (1960 88") brake pedal is in the pump once mode right now (i.e.
sponge city).  I have cleaned up and checked rebuilt all the wheel
cylinders to no effect. I have bled and bled and bled. I have tried to
bleed in the order of the Haynes manual, And in the manner of the factory
manual, I have bled by pressing on the pedal smartly and I have bled by
pressing on the pedal stupidly. I have jacked the front of the vehicle to
the sky to bleed the stinking thing. Still on pump once and then use the
brake mode. I think I have tried everything short of winching it up into a
tree. Is there still air in there or what??? How can I get it out?

For info, I have the CB (with the large bolt on the back)type master and
can detect no leaks along the lines.

Mabel has also given this disease to one of her friends, but that involves
the late IIA type master with the vacuum assist.

Any tips or tricks for either type of brake system would be greatlyy
appreciated.

cheers,

jimmy patrick

--
Jimmy Patrick
jimmyp@netcom.com
                                                 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 Sep 1995 15:47:17 -0400 (EDT)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.emr.ca>
Subject: Re: Paint code

On 12 Sep 1995, Mark Talbot wrote:

> I'm looking for the Rover Paint code for Marine BLUE, anyone know it ?

	LR      = RTC4043A
	Unipart = GAP407
	Dupont  = 38503

------------------------------

From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date: 12 Sep 95 15:48:16 EDT
Subject: Re: Paint code

Here' some info Bill Grouell sent to me. I pass it along with our
compliments... -ajr

 any DuPont paint jobber should be able to mix
up Rover colors in single quart cans. (If anyone has any other #'s, pass
them along.)

        Bronze green    38500
        Mid grey        38501
        Sand            38502
        Marine blue     38503
        Pastel green    38504
        Limestone       38505
        Poppy red       38506
        Burnt grey      38508
        Davos white     38514
        Mexican brown   38519
        Cameron green   38520
        Almond yellow   38521

Sand                               ACF/004 or 26291
        Almond yellow   38521        "camel yellow"   SandGlow, it is
        also a old Jaguar color 

For "DuLux" alkyd enamle, append a "D" to the paint color number.  Add an
"L" of laquer, or "A" for Centari acrylic enamel.  Other part numbers:

        Dulux hardener                  77s
        Aluminum cleaner                225s
        Aluminum conversion coating     226s
        "Variprime" two-part primer     615s
        Engine enamel
         "Detroit Diesel Alpine Green"  #225 (made by Tempo)

Automotive paints are quite sensitive to temperatures: use the following
thinners/retarders.  If you must paint at higher temps, add an anti-wrinkle
agent:

        DuLux Thinner   Temp Range      Centari Thinner Temp Range
           #8508        below 65 F           #8034       below 70 F
           #3812        65-75 F              #8022       70-85 F
           #3864        70-80 F              #8093       above 85 F
           #8522        above 80 F

The DuLux cannot be clear-coated, though the Centari can be protected in
this fashion.  DuLux can be mixed for brush application (like for roofs)
rather than spray applicatio, though.  DuPont "Corlar" two-part epoxy is
another primer alternative.  As it is intended for aircraft, it is only
available in gallon cans, and in grey.  Better living through chemistry...
I wasn't trying to sell AB's paint, but only thought the color names
might be of interest. Right you are on being able to buy it anywhere, and
here are the match numbers, courtesy Rovers North. Don't blame me if you go
out and get 10 gallons and it don't match. I got some Dupont acrylic enamel
to paint my fire wall with this number and it dosn't match anything, but
that's just because the thing is so fadded and oxidized. I'm sure these are
as correct as you can get. And a lovley red it is.

                        Dupont Centari       Ditzler       Glasurit
     
     Limestone             38505A             46251        
     Marine Blue           38503A             16514         ROV504
     Poppy Red             38506AH                          ROV303
     Light (Pastel) Green  38504A                           ROV605
     Sand                               ACF/004 or 26291
     Bronze Green          38500A             46451         LEY637
     Arctic White
  
Regards, Bill G.

Taken from the Rovers North newsletter (Spring '91), the paint codes for
 popular Series Land Rover colors are:
               RM Supermax   Ditzler   Glasurit   Dupont Centauri
 Limestone       RV-040       46251                  38505-A 
 Marine Blue     RV-017       16514     ROV-504      38503-A
 Poppy Red       RV-029                 ROV-303      38506-AH
 Pastel Green    RV-028                 ROV-605      38504-A
 Bronze Green    RV-027       46451     LEY-637      38500-A
 Some colors require white primer, others grey.

 

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date:          Tue, 12 Sep 1995 15:00:45 GMT -0600
Subject:       Re: I'm bleeding and can't stop...

Have you checked the metal lines, especially the one's that run along 
the top of the top of the frame to the rear? I've seen pinhole leaks 
in these that were hard to detect.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 Sep 1995 13:08:04 -0700
From: growl@hsmpk14a-101.Eng.Sun.COM (William L. Grouell)
Subject: Re: Paint code

> I'm looking for the Rover Paint code for Marine BLUE, anyone know it ?
> Mark

More than you asked for and well worth what you paid...

                        Dupont Centari       Ditzler       Glasurit
     
     Limestone             38505A             46251        
     Marine Blue           38503A             16514         ROV504
     Poppy Red             38506AH                          ROV303
     Light (Pastel) Green  38504A                           ROV605
     Sand                               ACF/004 or 26291
     Bronze Green          38500A             46451         LEY637
     Arctic White
  

Taken from the Rovers North newsletter (Spring '91), the paint codes for
 popular Series Land Rover colors are:
               RM Supermax   Ditzler   Glasurit   Dupont Centauri
 Limestone       RV-040       46251                  38505-A 
 Marine Blue     RV-017       16514     ROV-504      38503-A
 Poppy Red       RV-029                 ROV-303      38506-AH
 Pastel Green    RV-028                 ROV-605      38504-A
 Bronze Green    RV-027       46451     LEY-637      38500-A
 Some colors require white primer, others grey.

and, stolen from Sandy Grice;

Several people have asked questions about painting Birmabright as of late,
so I thought I'd pass along a few part numbers and whatnot.  Most all of
the part numbers are DuPont; any DuPont paint jobber should be able to mix
up Rover colors in single quart cans. (If anyone has any other #'s, pass
them along.)

        Bronze green    38500
        Mid grey        38501
        Sand            38502
        Marine blue     38503
        Pastel green    38504
        Limestone       38505
        Poppy red       38506
        Burnt grey      38508
        Davos white     38514
        Mexican brown   38519
        Cameron green   38520
        Almond yellow   38521

Sand                               ACF/004 or 26291
        Almond yellow   38521        "camel yellow"   SandGlow, it is
        also a old Jaguar color 

For "DuLux" alkyd enamle, append a "D" to the paint color number.  Add an
"L" of laquer, or "A" for Centari acrylic enamel.  Other part numbers:

        Dulux hardener                  77s
        Aluminum cleaner                225s
        Aluminum conversion coating     226s
        "Variprime" two-part primer     615s
        Engine enamel
         "Detroit Diesel Alpine Green"  #225 (made by Tempo)

Automotive paints are quite sensitive to temperatures: use the following
thinners/retarders.  If you must paint at higher temps, add an anti-wrinkle
agent:

        DuLux Thinner   Temp Range      Centari Thinner Temp Range
           #8508        below 65 F           #8034       below 70 F
           #3812        65-75 F              #8022       70-85 F
           #3864        70-80 F              #8093       above 85 F
           #8522        above 80 F

The DuLux cannot be clear-coated, though the Centari can be protected in
this fashion.  DuLux can be mixed for brush application (like for roofs)
rather than spray applicatio, though.  DuPont "Corlar" two-part epoxy is
another primer alternative.  As it is intended for aircraft, it is only
available in gallon cans, and in grey.  Better living through chemistry...

R, bg

 

------------------------------

From: ScottFugate_Group8@ctdvns1.ctd.ornl.gov
Date: Tue, 12 Sep 95 16:17:17 EDT
Subject: RR Questions

Dave Brown Writes:

Anyone that has any ideas, please respond. Thanks!!

1. "Low coolant" light flashing. Coolant is full, but stopped flashing when
I added some anyway, and the light went out for a while, then started again
after a few starts and stops. I'd suspect the coolant level sensor? Maybe a
leaking float in the sensor?

Sensor is bad.  New one around $50 from Rovers North.  A flashing light on my 
dash drives me nuts.  While I was waiting on a new unit, I put a stop to the 
flashing by shorting the sensor wires together with a wire staple.  Pretty 
Rover-esque fix, huh?

2. "Parking brake light" constantly on. Not sure, but maybe brake is not
fully disengaging? Haven't felt the drum yet after driving, to see if it's
hot.

My bet is you've got a bad switch.  I believe switch is under the center 
console ( or was that some other vehicle used to work on?).  Even if shoes 
were sticking, the ratchet lever would engage switch and extinguish the light. 
 Right?

3. not always, but occasionally it severely dogs, like it can't get enough
air or fuel. I'm pretty sure I heard it backfire through the intake too,
when it did this, but nor sure, since the radio was on. Other times it runs
fine. Air filter, maybe? I'm going to replace it Today.

When my RR was squirrely like that, it turned out to be plugs.  One was 
completely crapped out. Never had plugs go bad to that extent in any other of 
my vehicles.

5. Speedometer/odometer not working but cruise control works. No clue, cable
broken?

Try looking where the cable goes into the speedometer in the instrument 
binnacle.  On mine the end came out of the gear housing. This let gears 
disengage.   Look around for a flat disc about the size of a penny on the 
floor or in the cover on the underside of the steering wheel.  Press and 
superglue it back into place.  I actually used a filed down penny to fix mine, 
then found the little part when I reassembled everything.  If you want to do 
it right, I think I saw the part in AB's RR parts list for about $100.

Good Luck!

Scott Fugate
1970 IIA 88
1989 RR

BT

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 Sep 1995 15:59:55 -0500 (CDT)
From: David John Place <umplace@cc.UManitoba.CA>
Subject: Re: Rear Hub Oil Seals

Larry, what you want is a National 410694.  That is the double lip seal.  
If you want the single lip, leave off the last digit.  The demensions of 
that seal in case you want to go some other brand is 2.312 x 3.350 x 
.375.  With these numbers you can go to any good bearing supply store and 
get any brand you want.  I have installed double lip Nationals in my rear 
and front axle seals in the past month and with moly slip I have not 
found any seal failure.  It is a bit soon to say for sure but they seem 
to be fine.  My front hubs have a mixture of moly slip grease and oil and 
theydon't seem to be leaking.  Good luck.  
On another topic.  Maybe we should add replace all brake hoses to the how 
to reactivate a vehicle that has been standing for a few years.  Today I 
got a call from my daughter at university some 25 miles away that the 
Austin we brought back to life after a 7 year sit on blocks had no 
brakes.  I went in and found that the front hose had separated from the 
crimped on fitting at the brake wheel cyl.  I have never had this happen 
with N.A. vehicles but perhaps Girling is like Lucus and has some 
problems.  From now on I am going to replace all rubber hoses after a 
long sit.  I have done it in My Land Rovers just because I like to tinker 
but from now on all vehicles at our house with long periods of sitting 
are going to get hoses all round.  Perhaps the snow under the vehicle is 
to blame here since the wheels will sit in snow for the entire winter and 
then be wet each sping.  This could have been very serious if she had not 
pulled into a parking lot.  Dave VE4PN

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 Sep 1995 14:18:58 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Brabyn <brabyn@skivs.ski.org>
Subject: Re: RR Questions

Re Dave Brown's question on the engine gagging etc -- yes it could be the 
plugs, leads or diesributor cap/rotor I guess -- I didn't think of that 
initially. Certainly I have found on mine they need regular replacing 
otherwise you're in trouble.

Cheers

John

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 Sep 1995 16:28:40 -0500 (CDT)
From: David John Place <umplace@cc.UManitoba.CA>
Subject: Re: I'm bleeding and can't stop...

Hi Jimmy.  I have been down that road many times with my vehicles and I 
have found that the best way to solve this is to bleed not from the wheel 
cyl screw but at the junctions from the master and then finish with the 
normal cyl bleed screws.  Start by bleeding to the junction box just down 
from the fire wall.  Once you get a good no bubble bleed there, go to the 
next junction and so on.  You can tell if the air is in the front or rear 
by using a brake line clamp to close off the rubber lines or failing this 
use vise grips but be very careful you don't cut the lines.  I would start 
by clamping off the single hose to the rear.  This gives you two wheels 
cut off with only one clamp.  If you have air then it is not in the 
rear.  Always remember to start on the bleed screws with the closest 
wheel first and then get farther and farther to the reservoir. The shop 
manual says that all brake shoe adjusters must be slackened off to minimize 
wheel cylinder volume and reduce the possibility of air being trapped.  
You have a CB or centre ball type if it has the big nut.  This one has to 
be pumped evenly up and down once then stop for a second or two and then 
pumped up and down once again in that sequence.  The CV type is down a 
full stroke and then a number of little strokes then one long up and down 
stroke.  This is important.  Remember on the CB to push slowly and 
release slowly or you will intrain air.  Maybe that is your problem.  
Another important thing I have found after doing this for 30 years is use 
the clear glass bleed system not the in air squirt system.  By this I 
mean put a pipe on the bleed screw and let the air escape into a glass jar 
with liquid in it and don't loosen the screw so much air is sucked around 
the threads.  Let the liquid squirt into the liquid and watch till only 
liquid escapes and no bubbles.  Tighten the screw before you remove the 
hose from the liquid.  If you do this it will work.  If it doesn't you 
need a master rebuild kit or your steel lines or rubber hoses are porous.  
Have fun.  Dave VE4PN

 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 Sep 1995 16:47:53 -0500 (CDT)
From: David John Place <umplace@cc.UManitoba.CA>
Subject: Power brake servo

I was sitting here trying to think how I could check out the servo 
without taking it apart.  If the diaphragm was shot, wouldn't it let 
vaccuum leak out and the engine would run rough?  Rubber cement or a 
vulcanized patch like on tire tubes would solve the problem if there was 
a pin hole. Valcanizing uses sulphur to make the rubber stronger and more 
elastic so I suspect it might do the trick on the servo.  The one way 
valve is only a PCV type one way valve so one out of a Valiant for 
example might do the trick.  Has anyone found a way to give new life to a 
dead servo?
On another point.  I have never tried this but my mechanic friend who 
worked for a carb rebuilding shop says if you don't have carb cleaner to 
soak your carb in use vinegar.  It might be a bit more eco conscious than 
the strong agents we normally use.  I suspect it would need more time to 
work but it should do the trick.  Dave VE4PN
 

------------------------------

From: Sanna@aol.com
Date: Tue, 12 Sep 1995 17:48:22 -0400
Subject: Re: RR Questions

>1. "Low coolant" light flashing. Coolant is full
>2. "Parking brake light" constantly on.

#1.  It's the switch.  Lucas, you know.  Annabelle did the same thing.  I
fiddled around with it forever until I just replaced the switch.  Fixed!

2#.  Your parking brake warning light is also the warning light for low brake
fluid.  I also fiddled with the parking brake & its switch until the day I
lost my brakes completely.  Now I know.  I've been topping up the brake
resevoir since then every time the light comes back on.  On Thursday she goes
in for, among other things, a new bar reducing valve.

Tony

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 Sep 1995 14:12:58 +0100
From: cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine)
Subject: Re: I'm bleeding and can't stop...

 Jimmy Patrick <jimmyp@netcom.com> writes:

>Mabel's (1960 88") brake pedal is in the pump once mode right now...
>I have jacked the front of the vehicle to the sky to bleed the thing

 An article in the AB or RN newsletter a while back pointed out that
 the older Series models should not be jacked up to bleed the brakes.
 Apparently this traps air in the rear (?) brake cylinders.

-Michael Carradine
 cs@crl.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 Sep 95 16:11:53 -0700
From: "TeriAnn Wakeman"  <twakeman@apple.com>
Subject: Re: I'm bleeding and can't stop...

In message <199509121927.OAA24545@butler.uk.stratus.com> Jimmy Patrick writes:
 
> Mabel's (1960 88") brake pedal is in the pump once mode right now (i.e.
; sponge city).  I have cleaned up and checked rebuilt all the wheel
> cylinders to no effect. I have bled and bled and bled. I have tried to
; bleed in the order of the Haynes manual, And in the manner of the factory
> manual, I have bled by pressing on the pedal smartly and I have bled by
; pressing on the pedal stupidly. I have jacked the front of the vehicle to
> the sky to bleed the stinking thing. Still on pump once and then use the
; brake mode. I think I have tried everything short of winching it up into a
> tree. Is there still air in there or what??? How can I get it out?

Jimmy,
Assuming your master cylinder does not have an internal leak causing your 
problems, do a power bleed on the system.  You can ether spend a bunch on an E-Z
bleed system, lose lots of fluid figuring how tight to tighten the cap & how low
to bleed your tyre so as not to blow the E-Z bleed's seals, or you can find a 
garage that does power bleeding and bring some DOT 4 with you.  I'm doing more 
of the latter lately.  You can generally get a lot of power bleeds done for you 
for the price of an E-Z bleed.  Brake pushing just doesn't really seem get all 
the air out of a Land Rover system.

TeriAnn

------------------------------

From: JDolan2109@aol.com
Date: Tue, 12 Sep 1995 20:33:59 -0400
Subject: Trial by Tranny...

Well, my 'shot in the ass' tranny is out and a better one (hopefully!) is in.
Have yet to properly tighten bellhousing nuts (just got it in, secured it and
had to walk away), but once thats done, on goes another transfer case, new
mounts and the OD unit. Still haven't figured out what is wrong with the bad
units, I'll save that for some winter's evening, next to the woodstove. When
I described my symptoms (only noise in 1234,  but movement in Reverse!) to a
heavy equipment/tractor mechanic for the state of Vermont, he said it could
be the pinion gear or the drive shaft splines. His advice was to "keep it
simple, stupid!". Alas those didn't work out to be the problem, as nothing
was exiting the box, let alone getting to the driveshaft. Both units are so
sloppy, that they should have been replaced anyway as a
precautionary/preventative measure. Oh, well...

I do have a couple of 'quick' questions and am hoping a 'real timer' might
pick them up and respond via direct email with some advice. I usually access
early AM, before phone rates start to grow.
1). In the Fairey/Superwinch overdrive, there is an anti-chafing lubricant
used on the inside of the overdrive mainshaft. Since this unit is being
returned to service, should I provide a similar substance? If so, what is
suggested? (Would I be foolish to use a slurry of Marvel mystery oil and
neversieze? That works well in other applications) Does oil reach this area
during  normal operation, and if so is this just a provision to avoid a dry
break in? I'll lubricate it anyway prior to reassembly, but want to provide
adequately for the future.
2) This one might be a 'no-brainer' on my part but here goes: Given this
scenario: both front wheels on the ground, front drive shaft disconnected (at
flange from transfer case), and front hubs locked. I can rotate the front
driveshaft freely and get no engagement of the front wheels. Does this mean
there is something seriously wrong with my front diff. or a broken half shaft
or something? It just seems odd to me... (I hope it's not one of those 'when
it rains, it pours' situations evolving here...)
Anyway, this thing is going back together, and I do believe it will get me to
Stowe (Even if I put the old tranny back in and drive there in reverse!).
Hope to see you there. Stop by if you're in the neighborhood.
See 'ya on the old road... (hope I'm on it and not next to it!)
Jim  '61 88" SW / OD, 1 Bbl weber & 16's   ('on the mend')
LR....quite possibly one of the best machines yet devised! 
 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 Sep 1995 20:39:06 -0500 (CDT)
From: David John Place <umplace@cc.UManitoba.CA>
Subject: servo unit

I have just come in from doing a whole lot of brake work on my Austin 
Marina.  I am convinced that the servo in the 77 Marina is the same unit 
in the 79 Land Rover 88.  These should be available for rebuild even if 
the LR units are not.  Does anyone on the other side of the pond know if 
you can get the diaphragm for Austins of about 75 to 85 vintage?  Maybe 
we will get these things going yet.  I bet if I bought a new Marina servo 
I could get it a lot cheaper than LR.  Something like buying Jaguar when 
some Morris Minor part would fit just as well for 1/3 the cost.  Dave VE4PN

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 Sep 1995 21:40:00 -0400
From: Randy Parker <rparker@tiac.net>
Subject: Re: landrover.us.dell.com

At 04:19 PM 9/12/95 +1000, Lloyd Allison wrote:

>Does anyone have any ideas what or where the machine `landrover.us.dell.com'
>might be ?

Dell Computer uses us.dell.com for their U.S. hosts (see
http:/www.us.dell.com for example), so landrover.us.dell.com is just one of
their corporate machines (possibly just someone's PC) in that sub-domain
(child-to-parent relationship reads left-to-right in host names).   Could be
located anywhere - highest likelihood is Austin, TX.

-- Randy

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 Sep 1995 19:02:02 -0700 (PDT)
From: "John C. White III" <jcwhite3@well.com>
Subject: Re: Rusty D90s in Wisconsin?

You wrote... >The local diet of beer, bratwurst (if your not
from WI you've never had a real one)

I'll bet there are about 80-90 million Germans, Austrians and Swiss who 
would disagree with you.

Prost!
John

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 Sep 1995 23:23:17 -0500
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Steering woes

Following the thread on steering woes, I think that many can be traced to 
*one* source - the steering relay in the front cross member.  
Coincidentally, Bruce McEaneney of DAP is going to be conducting a tech 
session on rebuilding steering boxes at the Mid-Atlantic Land Rover Rally.

We already have *50* vehicles registered and are expecting 100+.  One of the 
prizes is going to be a pair of Dunlop Radial Rover 16" tyres.  Camel Trophy 
memorabilia as well.  Cheers
      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |       Rover Owners' Association of Virginia         |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 804-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    804-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 804-622-7056     |
      *-----------------------------------------------------*

------------------------------

From: jpappa01@interserv.com
Date: Tue, 12 Sep 95 20:56:46 PDT
Subject: Re: 1996 DISCO

First 96 Disco arrived at LRMW today - Altai Silver w/grey interior. It was an 
*SE-7* version - the highest NAS trim spec. available. Confirm the 4.0 litre 
mill with distributorless *coil packs* as in the new Rangey. Detuned to 182 hp 
and 233 Ft/# torque - up *1* pound! As I stated earlier - the 4.0 transplant 
was strictly for `96 emissions compliance - and NAS is *only* market to be 
getting 4.0 in Disco. Also main reason for no Defender 90 for 1996...

Other touches in SE-7 model? Power seats(!). Similar to classic Rangey seat 
buttons except they are located on sides of cubby box - excellent placement. 
Auto-dimming rearview mirror. Super-tweeters in A-pillars upgrade the factory 
stereo - otherwise unchanged. CD-changer now mounts under passenger seat and 
is reachable from inside car with doors closed... Freestyle wheels on SE cars 
are same as NAS 4.0 SE Rangey. Built-in factory fog lamps in front dam similar 
to all previous Range Rovers. Price for SE-7 (high end model) is 38550 incl. 
freight/dest. charges. Good news is that *Base* model is *SAME* price (30575 
incl. freight) as 1995 - and it is available in *ALL* standard colors 

So, DISCO predicatbly moving upscale - *BUT* Land Rover at least aware of need 
to keep base model near to 30K price point. 

New issue of AUTOWEEK today mentions that BMW might be sending 3 models or 
Rover car over here towards end of decade to complement Land Rover line.

cheerz,

Jim 

`67 2A 88 5.0L Hybrid
`67 2A 109 5.0L Hybrid
`68 2B Forward Control Diesel
`70 P6B 3500S
`90 Range Rover County
`93 D110 (#457/500)
`95 D90 #350
                                                                              
                                                                       

------------------------------

From: RICKCRIDER@aol.com
Date: Wed, 13 Sep 1995 01:32:40 -0400
Subject: Canvas Top Treatment

This question really relates to my *Alfas* black (faded) canvas
top........just pretend it relates to the canvas top on your favorite 101 or
lightweight (except for color...)......
The top has some age on it,  but no snags,  tears,  etc.   Was, (should be )
black...has faded to gray.    Would like to treat it with something, not only
to preserve and waterproof it, but also to darken it.   How 'bout a product
like 'Thompsons Water Seal'.....and.....should I attempt to 'dye' it before
waterproofing?   Who else better to ask about preserving and waterproofing
tricks than LRO's.....right?   Thanks folks.
Rick Crider  KD4FXA
Monroe  NC
' 66 Slla  109"      'Hugo'           .......still for sale to good home.....
' 73 Slll    88"       'Jesse'    .....best little Rover I've ever
known......
' 88  Range  Rover   ........no name....my daily pack mule....never left me
yet.
.........and.....more Alfas than I can afford.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Sep 1995 01:42:49 -0400
From: bbonner@mail.htp.com (Brian Bonner)
Subject: Re: Environmental Abuse (Was: Rover Abuse)

>To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net
>At 08:58 PM 11/09/95 -0700, you wrote:
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 27 lines)]
>IT SUX!!!
>Sorry that's my winge for the day!

Just goes to show what I have been saying for ten years. And yeas, no one
ever listened. The goverment in is Kindergarten mode; someone did this, so
all of you will be punished for it. This has been happeneing for ten years
plus now. the only difference is now it is over things people care about.
think about it.
                                        
                                   -=>Brian<=-

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 Sep 95 20:17:31 +0200
From: sm095re@unidui.uni-duisburg.de (Kurt Reinhardt)
Subject: tecnical data 

Hi folks
I need your help for getting tecnical data about the 2.5 VM turbodiesel.
Because of the fact, that it was not distributed here in germany, there is a
lack of information about this engine. If you have the data like max torque
at ?rpm
and so on I would be glad to get some mail of you. The information I got
here are contradicting in some cases, so I want to know the real facts. Have
you experience with this engine or heard about problems like the older 2.4
has got e.g. with head gasket.

Thanks a lot

Kurt
Range Rover in diaspora surrounded by awfully fronteras and japanese suv=B4s

Kurt.Reinhardt@unidui.uni-duisburg.de

------------------------------

From: dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au (Daryl Webb)
Subject: Re: Environmental Abuse (Was: Rover Abuse)
Date: Wed, 13 Sep 1995 16:34:37 +0930 (CST)

Brian explains:

> ever listened. The goverment in is Kindergarten mode; someone did this, so
> all of you will be punished for it. This has been happeneing for ten years
> plus now. the only difference is now it is over things people care about.
> think about it.

I fear its a little more complicated than this but there certainly is this
aspect to the whole thing.   One problem which really sticks with me, and one
that Mike R. has strong feelings on (g) is that of personal responsibility
for your own actions.

Plenty of people and governments are scared witless of major law suits
following injury to people doing stupid things.  In the NT (OZ)
this certainly has had an impact on where you can go and how places are
setup.

As an example of the problem consider this case:
14 Yo girl falls off beach side cliff @ ~2am following drinking bing with
older friend. older friend discovers 14 yo at bottom of cliff when they
recover ~ 9.00am.  14 Yo now paralised due to spinal injury sues council and
Parks and Wildlife on a duty of care basis.  (baricades/fencing/sign posting
insufficient) 

Whilst the outcome was favourable to the Gov in the end the result was not
always certain.....

just my gripe

  Daryl Webb   (dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au)

------------------------------

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