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Date: 11 Sep 95 03:47:43 EDT
From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com>
Subject: Misc.(Disco/Tossed tranny/RR noises)

Re: Lurker has Disco questions

That should just about do, provided you have the standard rims/tires on it.
Don't forget any antenna.

> Do those silly roof rails remove easily without leaving gaing holes in
> the roof ?

Those rails *are* silly, and totally useless. They're purely decorative,
if you put any kind of weight on them, the roof will buckle. They remove
easily, it's getting the headlining out and back in again that is going
to make you forget your good upbringing. The remaining holes are fairly
small and can be closed with little crome-plated circular plugs, available
at any automotive nik-nak shop.

-------------------------------------------------

Re: 'Tossed' tranny?

> I realize I have to replace both units (trans. & transfer), but what I'm

Why ?  Except in very rare cases, the t-case is unaffected if a shaft in
the main gearbox breaks, the exception being when the shaft breaks not
*inside* the gearbox, but at the rear end that is already inside the
t-case, carrying the transfer gear (or going into the overdrive).

---------------------------------------------------

Re: RR noises (was: Arcane Abbreviations)

>> The RR has always had a problematic front end.  She suffers from wandering on
>> the road, and for a brief time, she went "whap, whap, whap" up there while

>Have you tried adjusting the slack in the steering box, and replacing the
>Panhard Rod bushings and steering damper (for the latter use the genuine

Adjust the steering box - yes. Always a good thing to do now and then;
it's done via the flat locknut right on top in the middle of the box, the
actual adjustment is done with an allen key that fits the little rod secured
by the nut. See if you can get a new replacement nut. This nut is a
special sort of nyloc nut with a particularly large and soft plastic insert
that protudes out from the bottom of the nut a bit and is also supposed to
seal off the top of the steering box. The plastic flattens and hardens after
a while, and usually doesn't seal properly anymore after having been
loosened for steering adjustment - the no.1 cause for wet steering boxes.

Bushings? Not likely to be the cause - they would account for an occasional
loud *clunk* or *clank*, not whap-whap. I fear something more serious, like
a CV joint on the way to destruction, possibly accompanied or caused by
an excessively loose swivel pin and lack of oil in the swivel pin housing.
I'd start saving up money...

Stefan
<Stefan R. Jacob, 100043.2400@CompuServe.com>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Sep 1995 00:53:06 +0100
From: cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine)
Subject: Re: For Sale - Australia

>.  A Series IIA Ex-Army Landrover, 1965 (RNU 605).  Long Wheel Base, Soft
>Top (110 Army Cam), False Floor, Sound Proofing, Salisbury Rear Diff,
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
>tyres, comes complete with AM CB and UHF CB setup (antennas, coaxial cable,
>etc but not the CB Units themselves).  $5,500 AUS ono.

 Sounds like a nice truck, Tiffany.  Very similar to the 1/35" model kit
 I have here by Testors/Italeri #859 (drool!).  Is this a two door vehicle
 with a rear tail gate?  As a data point, do you drive on the right side of
 the road, or the wrong side? :)  What is a soft top "(110 Army Cam)", Army
 camouflage top from a 110" WB?  Being Ex-Army, is this the Australian Army,
 or British/NATO?  And, and having a new paint Job, is it repainted to Army
 paint/camouflage colors or something else?

>There is nothing wrong with the vehicle, we really don't want to sell it.

 Again, as a data point, in general do Australian vehicles suffer the same as
 English or US East Coast vehicles, being overcome with rust and disintegrating
 frames, bulkheads, etc.  What is the primary problem to look for in Australian
 Land-Rovers (or vehicles in general)?

 Michael Carradine, Architect                          Ph/Fax 510-988-0900
 Carradine Studios, PO Box 494, Walnut Creek, CA 94597 USA    <cs@crl.com>
 _________________________________________________________________________
 Mercedes-Benz Unimog 4x4 WWW page at:  http://www.crl.com/~cs/unimog.html

------------------------------

From: Mr Ian Stuart <Ian.Stuart@ed.ac.uk>
Date:          Mon, 11 Sep 1995 09:29:04 +0000
Subject:       Re: ECOFLOW

On  8 Sep 95, Mike Rooth wrote:

[With reference to the 40 quid EcoFlow system]
> Dont know how it works,but even 20% isnt much when you're
> only getting between,say,15-20mpg in the first place.Take
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> Personally,I reckon a Kenlowe electric fan is a better
> fuel saver.YMMV,of course.
How does the fan save money?

The only thing that is removed from the engine are the blades from the 
belt-drive fan. The only effect this will have (as far as I see) is to 
allow the engine to heat up quicker - there is no reduction in friction as 
the waterpump still has to be turned...

Am I missing something?

     ----** Ian Stuart (Computing Officer)        +44 31 650 6205
Royal (Dick) School of Veterinary Studies, Edinburgh University. 
 <http://www.vet.ed.ac.uk/> or <http://www.tardis.ed.ac.uk/~kiz/>

------------------------------

From: dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au (Daryl Webb)
Subject: Re: LR 110 Pre-purchase questions
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 1995 19:35:40 +0930 (CST)

Doug asks:
> I'm interested in buying a LandRover 110, about '85 vintage. Now being in
> Oz, we basically have a choice between the 3.5 V8 and the (factory
> installed) Isuzu 3.9 Diesel. I'm unsure of which to get. 

Horses for courses, see below. 

Personally 3.9D, LT95, Slam handles + air.  ( Ie my stage one but with the
diesel, coils and A/C)

> Questions:
> 1) Gear boxes
> installed) Isuzu 3.9 Diesel. I'm unsure of which to get. 
The LT95 is the four speed and is generally regarded as a better/stronger box
than the 5 speeds, I've never owned a 5sp, but they are supposedly more
refined (less truck like), though that wouldnt be hard, the LT95 is not
subtle, but personally I like the solid feel of it.
The boxes are basically Rangie ones with slightly differernt high range
transfer gears to take into account the extra weight and bigger tyres.

> 2) What are the general weak spots on a Landy of this type ?
> 1) Gear boxes

Centre diff, centre diff, chassis rust (esp rear x-member as lots were used
as boat pullers), did I mention The centre diff......

Actually the centre diff is not so much weak as easily abused and expensive
to fix.  

> What noises to listen for etc.

The drive line will probably sound a bit "clunky", its very subjective but if
there is *lots* beware.  Get out on a nice hard flat surface and do a few
tight circles and figure 8's and listen carefully for anything that sounds
like gear snatch.  If it clunks and lurches run a mile....  If it doesnt
there may still be problems but the only way you will find out is to strip
the thing down.   The centre diff on my stage one was hosed but didnt show up
until I disturbed it whilst fixing the speedo drive :-(  (mind you I patched
it up 7 years ago and am just now going back to put a heap more shims in, and
the stage 1 diff is not as good as the 110's)

Try to find somewhere where you can park with the nose facing downhill, stiop
for a few minutes and look to see if there is any oil dripping from the
bell-housing (come to that make sure the wading plug is not fitted to the
drain hole.)  I've seen lots of LT95;s do this, probably just a front
seal, but may be related to worn input shaft bearings (like mine :-(
Mines done it for years as have a couple of other LT95's i know but you would
be better off with one that doesn't

> too likely to have a really shot chassis, but you never know 
See above.  Try using the factory jack in the jacking holes, they seem to be
a "soft spot" rust wise.

> I have a friend who will come and look at the machines with me. He has a lot
> of experience with an SIIa 

At least he has a "feel" for Landys that will help...
> 3) The Isuzu diesel. I think its a 4BD1.Naturally aspirated, 3.9litre. As
> found in Isuzu NPR trucks, probably in other Isuzu or GM products. Anyone
> have any long term experience with this unit, either in a Landy or maybe a
> truck ? Any points to look at specifically.

No experience, only heard good things reliability/longevity  wise, have heard
that some electrical parts  ( eg starter) are outrageously priced.... 
 
> 4) Aimed specifically at Oz readers: what's a good price to pay for a 110 ?
> Most are advertised at the early $20k mark. Seems significantly high.

A friend just turned down $26500 for his '85 3.9 4 spd.  paid ~$22K about 6
mth ago, has had the g/box done since.

Another friend recently paid ~$14K for an 85 V8 4sp., this vehicle has some
rear x-member rust a leaky g/box front seal (bad leak !) has had radiator
problems, (cracked tanks is common, another thing I have to fix on the stage
1 soon :-)

With the Diesels its definitely a sellers market, they dont seem to hang
around for long.  I'm not really looking as I cant afford one :-(  

> I could live with a 110 for 20 years.

You and lots of others ...

As far as power plant selection goes its a very personal thing, and a lot
depends an the sort of driving you expect to do.
The diesel is a Truck motor, *lots* of *low* down torque, but not much top
end.  As an example there is a section of road here-abouts with a long hill.
Starting with a bottom speed of 110 Km, and using what ever throttle
necessary (ie Wide open or what ever) the 3.9 is doing about 85 at the top a
Tdi is still 110 and a 3.5 stage 1 with 400+K's is doing about 105.  The
diesel doesnt have the horse power up top, so is not as adept at sand work as
a V8, but by virtue of its bottom end is just great crawling up and down
steep rocky trails.
The diesel is better in deep water crossings, but less forgiving if you make
a mistake.  Drown a diesel and its dead donk time, sink a V8 and chances are
that you drive home, not clear cut but the the odds are better.
The diesel is noisey and smelly and vibrates like a duck in season, the V8
is relatively refined. 

But the diesel will routinely return mid to high 20's Mpg and may even crack
the 30's on some occasions,
The petrols well most people talk 16-18, some say 20  others think
15 would be nice.. 

Uuum as usual I've rambled on..

cheers best of luck

-- 

  Daryl Webb   (dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Sep 1995 20:47:30 +1000
From: Lloyd Allison <lloyd@cs.monash.edu.au>
Subject: Isuzu 4BD1

I have no first hand experience of the Isuzu, but I have heard remarks like
   "it's only run in after 100K km"
I know of one put into a Range Rover by a respected mechanic/engineer
so they can't be bad.  A club member plans to put one in his 101.

Also, I gather that some recommend the 4spd LT95 over the 5 spd (but
which one?) for big-engine transplants, so maybe it has a little more
strength?

Lloyd

------------------------------

From: Andrew Grafton <A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: ECOFLOW
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 95 11:50:01 BST

> On  8 Sep 95, Mike Rooth wrote:
[snip]
> > Personally,I reckon a Kenlowe electric fan is a better
> > fuel saver.YMMV,of course.

> How does the fan save money?

Don't the Kenlowe fans have a switch which only turns them on when 
they are needed rather than having the thing thrashing all the time?

This saves fuel because the engine is not putting energy into
unnecessarily turning the fan at high road speeds - not sure about
LR fans, but on some specs I've seen you can use up to 3HP to
drive the fan round (excluding water pump).

If an electric fan was on all the time, I think it would be less
efficient then its mechanical counterpart because you have 
mechanical-> electrical and electrical-> mechanical losses 
rather than just belt losses in the standard system.
That's if they move the same amount of air, and the fan is the 
same...  just an alternative power source.
It can't have been hard for Kenlowe to improve on the
standard LR fan shape, efficiency-wise!
Any other theories (or - gasp - hard evidence)?!

> The only thing that is removed from the engine are the blades from the 
 belt-drive fan. The only effect this will have (as far as I see) is to 
> allow the engine to heat up quicker - there is no reduction in friction as 
 the waterpump still has to be turned...
> Am I missing something?
> > fuel saver.YMMV,of course.

I reckon it might be a more efficient blade shape coupled with the fans
only coming on when required...

Whilst on the fan thing, does anyone have experience of the eight
blade fans, as fitted to lightweights and other Army machines?
I'm interested whether or not they are better at cooling the radiator.
We have been donated one of these, c/w pulley etc. and it will fit
fine on our engines.  It's just a pain in the arse to put it on 
on the offchance that it might help in really high ambient 
temperatures.  Can't really test it in the UK...
 
The fans are about 1" less in diameter overall and the blades have a 
similar pitch.  I can't see how they are dramatically better than the
existing 4 blade unit with a shroud.

All the best,

Andy
A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk

------------------------------

From: Dr Peter Ramsay <RAMSAYP@geology.und.ac.za>
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 1995 13:30:23 +0200 (SAST)
Subject: 110 Purchase

Doug wrote that he was interested in purchasing a 110.  I have a 1984 
110 V8 named "Brick with an Aircraft Engine" and can enlighten you on 
our South African experience of the 110.

On the engine side, if petrol consumption is not a high priorty, I 
would go for the 3.5l V8.  This engine is extremely strong, 
runs smoothly and sounds great.  My V8 has 110,000km on the clock and 
runs sweetly.  You can expect to get a consumption of 20litres per 
100 km in an urban cycle and about 16l/100km on the open road at 100-
110 km/hr.  Offroad comsumption rarely exceeds 20l/100km even if the 
vehicle is worked hard.

On the gearbox side, the five-speed boxes have not been too reliable 
and the 4-speed ones seem to be a better propersition.  Note the 
these 110 gearboxes use 20W50 engine oil in the gearbox and EP 90 in 
the transfer box (I use 85W140 in my transfer case & diffs as I run 
the vehicle in very hot climates and I think this oil provides better 
lubrication).

All South African assembled 110's have galvanished chassis - so rust 
is not a problem.

The 110's are exceptionally good and rugged vehicles.  They are 
comfortable offroad and onroad and fitting the Australian Old Man Emu 
shocks, springs and poly-bushes improves the comfort and handling 
even more.

I hope this information helps.

Peter   

**********************************************************************
Dr Peter J Ramsay
Marine Geoscience Unit
P O Box 18091
Dalbridge, 4014
Durban
South Africa
Tel (+2731) 811260
Fax (+2731) 2602280
**********************************************************************

------------------------------

From: hlapa@Zeus.signalcorp.com
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 95 07:28:09 EST
Subject: British Car Show

Just got this in the mail and thought some might be 
interested --

Sunday October 22 10AM-5PM: 20-25 British cars from all over 
New England, representing the best in their respective 
classes, will be displayed in the Military Exhibit Hangar 
(rain or shine) of the New England Air Museum, Bradley 
International Airport, Windsor Locks CT.

Sounds like the display vehicles are already selected, but 
why not fill up the parking lot with L-Rs?  

If anyone wants detailed directions, email me directly.

Hank

------------------------------

From: Dr Peter Ramsay <RAMSAYP@geology.und.ac.za>
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 1995 13:26:57 +0200 (SAST)
Subject: 110 Purchase

Doug wrote that he was interested in purchasing a 110.  I have a 1984 
110 V8 named "Brick with an Aircraft Engine" and can enlighten you on 
our South African experience of the 110.

On the engine side, if petrol consumption is not a high priorty, I 
would go for the 3.5l V8.  This engine is extremely strong, 
runs smoothly and sounds great.  My V8 has 110,000km on the clock and 
runs sweetly.  You can expect to get a consumption of 20litres per 
100 km in an urban cycle and about 16l/100km on the open road at 100-
110 km/hr.  Offroad comsumption rarely exceeds 20l/100km even if the 
vehicle is worked hard.

On the gearbox side, the five-speed boxes have not been too reliable 
and the 4-speed ones seem to be a better propersition.  Note the 
these 110 gearboxes use 20W50 engine oil in the gearbox and EP 90 in 
the transfer box (I use 85W140 in my transfer case & diffs as I run 
the vehicle in very hot climates and I think this oil provides better 
lubrication).

All South African assembled 110's have galvanished chassis - so rust 
is not a problem.

The 110's are exceptionally good and rugged vehicles.  They are 
comfortable offroad and onroad and fitting the Australian Old Man Emu 
shocks, springs and poly-bushes improves the comfort and handling 
even more.

I hope this information helps.

Peter   

**********************************************************************
Dr Peter J Ramsay
Marine Geoscience Unit
P O Box 18091
Dalbridge, 4014
Durban
South Africa
Tel (+2731) 811260
Fax (+2731) 2602280
**********************************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Sep 95 08:02:35 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Wheel Wobble

          Tony-
           Greetings. I had the exact same problem, I think
          on a larger scale perhaps. I'd hit a bump and the
          steering wheel would nearly fly off the end of the
          column,l and my arms felt like they were trying to
          hold on to a bucking bronco (never actually done
          that but I guess that's what it would feel like!).
          I called around and heard just about everything.
          The end result is that I have learned the
          following. 1. A steering damper should be fitted
          when everything else is already done. It is as you
          said like a band aid on a broken leg. 2.
          Tightening the steering box probably won't help
          either. 3. Swivel pins may be too loose, but not
          loose enough to feel by shaking the tire. If
          the bearings/pins are slightly worn, the pre-load
          on the swivel mechanism may be too low.( Should be
          about 12-16lbs.) My swivel balls were hosed so i
          changed them.  Took her in for a wheel
          alignment/balancing, and the guy there said the
          wobble was probavly caused by incorrect balancing.
          Haven't had the problem since, I've been
          deliberately going over lots of bumps to try and
          make it return (why?) So far it hasn't.
          I initially tried just doing the steering box, and
          the problem recurred within a couple of days.
          Robert Davis says that the box should be tightened
          by jacking up the front wheels, then tightening
          until you feel resistance in the steering wheel.
          Then back off. Don't know what kind of vehicle you
          have, so I hope this helps. Gotta run, thanks for
          letting me babble.
          Cheers.
          David Bobeck
          Wash DC
          dbobeck@ushmm.org
          72 SERIII 88"  "Miss Lucky"

------------------------------

From: BwanaE@aol.com
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 1995 08:15:11 -0400
Subject: Re: Overdrive whining ? A tip ...

Jory,

The overdrive whine was always present, however it was definitely louder in
the engaged position (more internal gears moving about ?).

Anyway, now that I've modified the offending screw, it's so quiet, that the
engaged/disengaged noise level is the same. 

I'm seriously considering a radio now... what a concept !

Eric

------------------------------

From: Easton Trevor <TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA>
Subject: Superwinch OD
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 95 08:54:00 DST

The following was provided by Glen Massie of Toronto Area Rover Club. The 
answers came from Tony Sanderson of Superwinch UK.

Q; Can you leave your vehicle in overdrive for everyday use on the highway?
A; Stop and go driving in high range two wheel drive should not harm the 
overdrive unit.  We have found, in the U.K., that to obtain the greatest 
fuel savings it is best to drive "by ear'. When the engine sounds as if it 
is labouring, change down or out of OD. If the OD is left in when pulling 
away with a loaded vehicle the gearing may be too high. This will waste 
fuel.

Q: Can the OD be used in any range?
A; The OD can be used in any gear range high or low. However if the vehicle 
is driven aggressively off road, it would be advisable to keep the OD 
disengaged.

Q: Can you use the OD as a split shifter? eg If 3rd high is too low but 4th 
is too high use 3rd OD.
A: It is normal to use the OD as a split shifter, in fact this is one of the 
main benefits of the OD, to "split" the gearbox ratios (these are quite 
wide).

Q: What about spares and repairs on the road?
A: If you are contemplating long haul trips in remote areas you would be 
well advised to keep (In your vehicle) the parts removed when you fitted the 
overdrive. If any problems arise with the OD it would be a simple matter to 
convert the vehicle back to non OD if you have these parts with you. (Don't 
forget also the special wrench/modified socket for the mainshaft nut)

Trevor Easton TARC

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Sep 1995 08:56:15 -0400
From: Keith Elliott <kelliott@intranet.on.ca>
Subject: Series II Brakes

Hi everyone...

   I've got a question for all you Land Rover gurus... I had no brakes at
all on my 61 SII SWB, blead all the lines and had great pedal and stopping
power. Since then I have moved it around the property (no great distance)
and noticed that the break pedal was slowly getting closer to the floor. Now
the pedal is back to the floor and no brakes. I have looked everywhere for a
leak but there is none and the master resivoir (SP!) hasn't dropped any.
Gotta be air getting in somewhere but where!!! Thanks in advance for any help.

Keith
'61 Series II SWB "The unstoppable beast!"

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Sep 1995 09:21:18 -0400 (EDT)
From: Rick Grant <rgrant@synapse.net>
Subject: Border Collies & LR revisited

Here once again, but this time untruncated, is the note that was in the
Border Collie List.  I wonder if the Land Rover has made its own way home yet?

In todays Nat. Press is a story about a 10 year old Border Collie who was
stolen 
along with his 4 year old kennel mate from his owners Land Rover. The thieves 
took the vehicle and dumped the dogs 60 miles away from their home.   The 
younger dog was caught two days later and returned to his owner, but the older 
dog set off alone.  His owner, a shepherd said he knew that the dog would make 
it home as long as he did not get hit by traffic or shot for worrying stock. He 
alerted farmers and gamekeepers along the route.   The dog took 5 days to make 
the journey back home and was spotted by villagers who recognised him a mile 
from his home. 

 
Sue James                             ***  Sooshine Yorkies  ***
Leicestershire, England                  sue@b-jam.demon.co.uk  

                                

                                                        Rick Grant

rgrant@synapse.net
Ottawa, Ontario, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Sep 95 09:52:50 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Solex Carb

          David-
           There is a very informative article in this
          months LRO International, dealing with the
          rebuilding and common things that can go wrong
          with this carb. Its apparently difficult to
          rebuild since parts are no longer made, but you
          can get a rebuilt one. Also they tell you how to
          tune it.
           Not sure what month this is but it has a picture
          of an airborne yellow LR on the cover.
          Regards,
          David Bobeck
          Wash DC
          dbobeck@ushmm.org
          72 SerIII 88" "Miss Lucky"

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Sep 95 10:00:17 EST
From: lenagham@bachman.com
Subject: Re: Range Rover Steering

     There have been a number of postings recently about Range Rover 
     steering problems. These seem to fall into two categories: 
     
     1) Wandering/Vagueness - which may be caused by worn ball joints and 
     steering backlash adjustment.
     
     2) Steering wheel shake/vibration - which is typically down to the 
     steering damper.
     
     There was an article in the August edition of Land Rover World about 
     "Ultimate 80" and in there was the following:
     
     "The last and most recent problem was a vicious steering wheel shake, 
     the same type that will be familiar to a lot of owners of older Range 
     Rovers. It usually occurs at any speed over 40mph and is usually set 
     off by hitting a pot hole, although in severe cases just catching 
     something as small as  a cat's eye can set it off. I've known owners 
     react to this by changing the steering damper and, when this has been 
     seen to have no effect whatsoever, going on to fit replacement front 
     springs, shocks and a number of suspension bushes. Traditionally this 
     too produces little or no improvement, and neither does having the 
     wheels balanced.
     
     The cure is normally, though not always, to reset the preload on the 
     swivel bearings. That's what I checked first, and sure enough they 
     needed adjusting. Not only is this relatively easy to do, it also 
     doesn't cost anything in terms of new parts, assuming of course the 
     bearings don't need replacing, as you're actually removing shims from 
     under the top pin rather than having to nail new bits to it."
     
     So, this is one more thing to add to the list of possible causes. Does 
     anyone know how easy it is to set the preload?
     
     Mike
     87 RR

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Sep 95 10:17:35 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Electrical Work

          Greetings all.
          This weekend as I was doing some
          final work on the Rover, to get it ready for its
          DMV inspection, all of the rear left lights went
          on strike. They had been working fine ever since I
          hit that bump on Route 81. Well, I discovered that
          the wiring harness in the rear crossmember was
          rather awful underneath all that pretty electrical
          tape. Also some of the bulbs had seperated from
          their bases.  So it was off to Trak Auto for the
          bulbs. As I pulled into the parking lot I noticed
          that the speedometer said I wasn't moving. I
          looked out the window to make sure I was moving.
          Test results showed that I was indeed moving. I
          knew what the problem was before I even got out.
          If anybody's wondering, the speedometer cable
          wrapping is NOT designed to withstand the heat of
          prolonged contact with the exhaust pipe (no
          surprise there).  Well back to the story. Bulbs in
          hand, I went to work on the wiring right there in
          the parking lot.  Snip here, splice there, snip
          splice snip splice bump head on frame, etc... As I
          was wrapping up, a young lady approached me and
          asked if I could check out the headlights on her
          Ford station wagon. Lots of fiddling around with
          the connections, hooked 'em right up to the
          battery and they came on.  Checked the power at
          the plug, none.  Scraped some of the road gunk off
          the plug and got power.  Plugged it in again and
          they came on. I looked to see if they were LUCAS.
          I tried to refuse but she ended giving me 20
          bucks!  That should cover most of the speedo
          cable. Anyway I got all my lights working 'cept
          for the reverse one, works great off the battery
          but mysteriously dies when I put it back in place.
          Ah, the joy.

          By the way there's a '71 Series IIa 88 in the
          Sunday Washington Post, restored, runs great "the
          classic 4x4" $7500. Will post the phone number
          tomorrow.
          Cheers.
          David Bobeck
          Wash DC
          72 Series III 88 "Top speed 0 mph"
          dbobeck@ushmm.org

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Sep 95 10:39:08 EST
From: "Hadley, William H." <whadley@INETGATE.ushmm.org>
Subject: silly sounds

          Ok here are a few more random questions:

          The rubber on the inside of the top to my
          Clutch/Brake reservoir is swollen(IIa) and the
          fluid inside is Murky. The can is also soaked in
          brake fluid, are these "normal" attributes of a
          '62 Rover?

          The funny sound comes from the transmission
          direction, or clutch. It sounds like a wizzing
          noise and usually happens when I push in the
          clutch. I also usually have to go into third to
          get to second without "grinding." The pedal does
          not always have pressure so I have assumed
          "sticking" throw out bearing but don't know if it
          is a faulty master cylinder.

          How about this one; gear oil leaking from the
          Flywheel and engine oil leaking from the cam pully
          area.

          I think that is probably enough...

          Thanks in advance

          Will Hadley
          Exhibition Department United States
          Holocaust Memorial Museum Washington, DC
          whadley@ushmm

          '62 88IIa SW "Nessie" (the lil' monsta that's
          rarely seen)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Sep 1995 10:42:40 -0400 (EDT)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.emr.ca>
Subject: Re: Is this a good idea?

On 10 Sep 1995, compuserve wrote:

> Would it be a good idea to find a good frame of a parts truck and have 
> it hot dipped?

	Maybe, or get a new frame from the UK that is already galvanized 
	(which could be a better option...)  Is the current frame that
	far gone?  If the frame is good on the parts vehicle, what is wrong
	with the rest?  Mix & mate I guess...

> How much would the galvinization cost?

	Ask...  Varies by location.  You have to get the frame to & fro
	too...

> Where could I get it done?

	Yellow pages.  If you were in Ottawa, the closest choices are in
	Montreal and Toronto.

> How long does it take to swap a chassis?(first time)

	Depends if you lure some friends with a case of beer to help.
	If so, about three or four weeks after work & the weekends, 
	fixing stuff as you go along.  Waiting for parts will probably the
	greatest delay...

------------------------------

From: "Walter C. Swain" <wcswain@s101dcascr.wr.usgs.gov>
Subject: Re: French lessons
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 1995 07:42:02 -0700 (PDT)

>>>>> William L. Grouell writes:

> >  Perhaps the
> > original siege devices contained additional materials to provide an 
> > olfactory suggestion of intestinal gasses.
> > Walt Swain

>   I take it you are not a "black powder" shooter.

I haven't messed around with the basic stuff since I was a kid making 
powder with sulfur, saltpeter and charcoal, and don't have a clear 
recollection of the smell.  I gather that "...additional materials to 
provide an olfactory suggestion of intestinal gasses" isn't necessary.  
The relation between the etymolgy of the term and it's more recent use 
becomes (sniff) increasingly clear.

Regards,

Walt Swain

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date:          Mon, 11 Sep 1995 09:54:21 GMT -0600
Subject:       Re: Is this a good idea?

  Will Cantrell asks,
 
> Would it be a good idea to find a good frame of a parts truck and have it hot
> dipped?
If it's in good shape. I plan to do it with mine. A good place will 
acid dip it to strip it before hot dipping it.

> How much would the galvinization cost?
Some years back it was going to cost me under $500 for a 109 frame. I 
forget exactly.
> Where could I get it done?
Look in the phone book under metal treating. If you can't find any go 
to the library and look in the nearest big city phone book.
> How long does it take to swap a chassis?(first time)
Depends how fast you work. It's taking me about 15 years on my 109.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

Date: 11 Sep 1995 15:52:16 U
From: Duncan Rose <duncan.rose@bt-sys.bt.co.uk>
Subject: RE: Thermostatic coolong fans

Nigel,

I have been down this route when considering the cooling requirements of my
V8 Eagle Jeep (Range Rover underneath).  It had a 10 or 12 inch kenlow that
looked pretty weedy.

At the time I wasnt sure whether to stay mechanical or go electric.  In the
end I went electric because it can be switched off when going into water, and
also I tend to do lots of shortish journeys.

I measured the maximum size of electric fan that could be mounted.   Knowing
this I asked for the "air flow" specificiations from both Kenlow and Pacet,
making sure to compare at equivilant air resistance coefficients (I think I
used 0.3).  

Most interestingly was that a single 15 inch (I think) Pacet unit had a
throughput equivalent (approx 1500 cubic feet per min) to two 12 inch Kenlows
(about 800 cubic feet per min each) !  The choice was then easy - Pacet.  
If you choose electric, watch out for the width of the fan, they vary
enormously from model to model.

Anyway - I have been really happy ever since, I find the large Pacet very
reassuring.  Any thoughts please reply.

Duncan A D Rose

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Sep 1995 17:51:48 +0200
From: terje@tvnorge.no (Terje Krogdahl)
Subject: Re: silly sounds

>          The funny sound comes from the transmission
>          direction, or clutch. It sounds like a wizzing
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
>          "sticking" throw out bearing but don't know if it
>          is a faulty master cylinder.

At a guess I'd say the whizzing sound could be air in the clutch system,
but ist should migrate to the reservoir by it self. Of course it could
also be a sticky clutch part... You mentioned murky fluids, so it could 
be a rubber seal in the slave (or master) giving up its ghost...

Grinding... When gearing up or down? I'd guess its due to the unsynchronized
1st/2nd gears.

>          How about this one; gear oil leaking from the
>          Flywheel and engine oil leaking from the cam pully
>          area.

Gear oil from flywheel housing: Leaky front seal on the gearbox. (thats 
inside the bell housing and a *bitch* to get at... Engine oil from the
cam pully area? I assume you mean at the front of the engine, where the fan 
belt pully is? If so, I guess your front main seal is leaking.

TK
terje@tvnorge.no
http://www.tvnorge.no/~terje
1972 88" SII

>.

------------------------------

From: hlapa@Zeus.signalcorp.com
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 95 12:18:42 EST
Subject: Re: Series II Brakes

Sounds similar to a problem I had with an aquarium power 
filter which befuddled all the fishtank experts.  My theory 
was that air was being entrained lines through a leak 
instead of fluid being forced.  I know, seems to defy common 
sense.

Try looking for a leak while someone else is stepping on the 
brake pedal.  Of course, make sure resv is topped up at all 
times.  Look carefully at each connection and along the flex 
hose lengths.  It could be that the leak bleeds on the 
pressure stroke, then ingests air on the return stroke.

Just one guess.

Hank
'60 Ser II 109: "The barely Stoppable Beast"

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Sep 1995 13:10:07 +0100
From: mfarrall@well.ox.ac.uk (Martin Farrall)
Subject: Re: ECOFLOW

The Kenlowe electric fan (which I have yet to fit as every spare hour
at the weekend seems to involve fixing asbestos sheeting on top of a
barn) comes with a nifty thermocouple for insertion in a suitable hose
so should only run when fan assisted cooling is really needed.  The
salespitch claims a 5-7% saving in fuel efficiency/power loss, some
reduction in noise, and quicker warming up.

Martin Farrall

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Sep 1995 10:51:51 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Brabyn <brabyn@skivs.ski.org>
Subject: Re: wwweb

On Sat, 9 Sep 1995, Lloyd Allison wrote:

> I have a copy of Chris Haslam's 1988 Rangie electrics at
>     http://www.cs.monash.edu.au/~lloyd/tildeLand-Rover/RR/Haslam/

Is it possible to get these diagrams in the good old-fashioned paper 
form???

Many thanks

JOhn Brabyn
89RR
> I have a copy of Chris Haslam's 1988 Rangie electrics at

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Sep 1995 11:11:29 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Brabyn <brabyn@skivs.ski.org>
Subject: Re: ECOFLOW

On the subject of cooling system improvements, why doesn't someone make a
decent Thermostat that opens to the full size of the pipes and lets the
full flow of coolant through? I think an electromechanical one that you
could insert in the top radiator hose would be good, with large diameter
and no restriction, controlled by a thermostat switch eg the output of the
existing temperature sender. Then you could remove the conventional
thermostat which seems to me to be the most restrictive part of the system
even when wide open. I for one have found that in places like Death
Valley, even the Range Rover's vaunted cooling system is not up to the
task on occasion. 

Just a thought....

John Brabyn
89RR

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Sep 1995 11:19:02 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Walter C. Swain" <wcswain@wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us>
Subject: Re: French lessons

On Mon, 11 Sep 1995, TONY YATES wrote:

> > This is true.  However, the etymology of 'petard' is traced back through
> > the French and Latin in a long winded series of terms that all relate to
> > the expulsion of intestinal gasses. 

>Does this mean that the Frenchman taunting King Arthur in Monty Python 
>and the Holy Grail should have said:
>"I petard in your general direction"?

Sounds reasonable to me; at least as reasonable as anything else that
might have come out of Monty Python.  However, my recollection of the
Middle French verb was "peter" so I'm sure it would have been properly
conjugated, introducing just the right amount of obtuse obscurity (as
opposed to clear obscurity?) to the exchange. 

Best Petards,

= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
               Walter C. Swain          |  wcswain@wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us 
               Davis Community Network  |  1988 Range Rover
               Davis, California        |  1967 109 Series IIA Safari SW

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Sep 95 12:23:35 MST
From: DEBROWN@SRP.GOV
Subject: Bought an '87 RR.

FROM:  David Brown                           Internet: debrown@srp.gov
       Computer Graphics Specialist * Mapping Services & Engr Graphics
       PAB219 (602)236-3544 -  Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486
SUBJECT: Bought an '87 RR.
Hello all,

Last week I asked for some input on a '87 RR for sale, and would like to
thank those who responded. Well, I ended up getting her for $8500 US. This
is around $4000 below the wholesale blue book value, but with reason, which
I will explain.

Problems: Lifter "ticking". (To me, it shows that the oil has not been
regularly changed as claimed) Leather seats "cracked" (surface cracks, again
showing neglect, drying out) one dash vent broken, holding on with tape,
Mylar "gear selector indicator" torn up, tear in back seat carpeting, stereo
and factory CD literally ripped out by thieves, (replaced by "Audiovox in
dash CD player) Hella auxiliary lights and LR fog lights all have cracked
(stone chipped) lenses, power seat switches broken, front door pockets torn
off (by the thieves), missing carpet to cover jack storage, and a variety of
little things broken or otherwise abused by use/abuse (2 *very* rowdy boys).
Oh! and the typical "lucas" bugs.

Good things: *never* been off road, (looked like new underneath, no leaks
except one swivel ball starting to leak) straight body, rino/moo/roo bars,
rear light guards, trailer package including those stupid lights *below* the
rear bumper, (where they're bound to be torn off), new Michelin tyres, A/C
works well, no unusual noises.

Anyone who knows me, knows that I *love* 4-wheeling! And that's a severe
understatement! So, without delay, I "had" to initiate this 8 year old
"virgin" (Oh! My! That didn't sound right... well, you know what I mean!)
So, using "shooting the guns" as an excuse, (like I needed one) we loaded
her up and took off. Handling was very nice, and seemed to be every bit as
capable as the Disco was. Only now, if I were to somehow destroy her, I
won't be paying on her for the next 5 years! Well, that un-marred paint
didn't last too long, I managed to get some of the typical "Arizona desert
pin stripes" in her. Not intentionally, as in aiming for them, but you know,
it just happens! (In fact, my 16 year old son was laughing at me, swerving
to avoid unnecessary contact with brush instead of thrashing right through
it.) I must have a little bit of that "new car" feeling in me. But it'll
pass with time. I do miss the ABS though, got used to it slowing me while
maneuvering the rig instead of plowing without steering control. Maybe
that's a bad thing about ABS, you "forget" how to brake effectively.

So, again, thanks to all who responded!! I really appreciate it!

 #=====#         #========#          -------,___           _______
 |___|__\___     |___|__|__\___      |--' |  |  \_|_      / /__|__\___
 | _ |   |_ |}   | _ |  |   |_ |}    |  _ |--+--|_  |     \_/-\___/-\_|}
 "(_)""""(_)"    "(_)"""""""(_)"    ||_/_\___|__/_\_|}      ( )    ( )
                                       (_)      (_)
 1971 "88" IIa   1970 "109" IIa     1994 Discovery (Sold) '87 Range Rover
                                     (Too hard to "draw")

#=======#                Never doubt that a small group of individuals
|__|__|__\___            can change the world... indeed, it's the only
| _|  |   |_ |}          thing that ever has.
"(_)""""""(_)"                                          -Margaret Mead

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Sep 95 12:41:27 MST
From: DEBROWN@SRP.GOV
Subject: '87 RR misc. problems (part 2 of the story)

FROM:  David Brown                           Internet: debrown@srp.gov
       Computer Graphics Specialist * Mapping Services & Engr Graphics
       PAB219 (602)236-3544 -  Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486
SUBJECT: '87 RR misc. problems (part 2 of the story)
Hello all, I thought I'd post the problems separately with the "new" toy.
Anyone that has any ideas, please respond. Thanks!!

1. "Low coolant" light flashing. Coolant is full, but stopped flashing when
I added some anyway, and the light went out for a while, then started again
after a few starts and stops. I'd suspect the coolant level sensor? Maybe a
leaking float in the sensor?

2. "Parking brake light" constantly on. Not sure, but maybe brake is not
fully disengaging? Haven't felt the drum yet after driving, to see if it's
hot.

3. not always, but occasionally it severely dogs, like it can't get enough
air or fuel. I'm pretty sure I heard it backfire through the intake too,
when it did this, but nor sure, since the radio was on. Other times it runs
fine. Air filter, maybe? I'm going to replace it Today.

4. Anyone know of an inexpensive source for the seat switches? Mine are not
only not functioning, but totally broken, and need replaced. (can't fix
these ones. :( )

5. Speedometer/odometer not working but cruise control works. No clue, cable
broken?

Thanks everyone! Dave Brown debrown@srp.gov

#=======#                Never doubt that a small group of individuals
|__|__|__\___            can change the world... indeed, it's the only
| _|  |   |_ |}          thing that ever has.
"(_)""""""(_)"                                          -Margaret Mead

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Sep 95 12:53:48 -0700
From: "TeriAnn Wakeman"  <twakeman@apple.com>
Subject: SIII wiper parts wanted

I'm looking for good condition series III two speed wiper parts to convert my 
double wiper motor Land Rover to a two speed single motor wiper system.

Will consider trading my two functional wiper motors or $$

TeriAnn
twakeman@apple.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Sep 95 12:53:56 -0700
From: "TeriAnn Wakeman"  <twakeman@apple.com>
Subject: Dormobile parts wanted

I'm looking for the following Dormobile parts and any help tracking them down 
would be much appriciated.

- Grill for stove that commonly comes in Dormobiles

- Curtain rails that normally comes installed in Dormobiles

-  Dormobile roof vent lid.  This is a fiberglass (plastic?) shallow rectangular
box that sits inverted on a doormobile top and is hinged at one side and has an 
opening mechignism at other.  i have the mounting hardware but need the lid.

Any help  locationg these parts appriciated.

Thanks!

TeriAnn
twakeman@apple.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Sep 95 12:54:04 -0700
From: "TeriAnn Wakeman"  <twakeman@apple.com>
Subject: 109 2 door tropical top for sale

I have a tropical top for a 109 two door coming up for sale.  The top has the 
second skin, roof air vents and oval top windows.  The sides have two side 
windows on each side.  Top has minor inperfections (edges of top skin a little 
wavey in places from tree branch contact, front of front vent bubbles  slightly 
creased.  Otherwise in good shape.  Front & rear headliner sections installed, I
think I have center section in storrage but no guarentees. Tare in rear 
headliner section. Front plate where sun visor mounts missing.  Top & sides are 
limestone white.

After asking around I believe US$700 is a reasionable price.  Top located in 
California on North Monterey Bay.

TeriAnn
twakeman@apple.com 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Sep 95 12:54:36 -0700
From: "TeriAnn Wakeman"  <twakeman@apple.com>
Subject: Dormobile seats for sale

Hi all,

I have a complete set of Dormobile seats for sale.  I think all the special 
mounting hardware is there too. 

To refresh your memories, Dormobile seats fit into a 109 4 door.  They fold down
flat to make a double bed (You always wondered how people could sleep in a 4 
door 109).  The front seat can be reversed to face the rear seat and you can put
a table between the reversed front & rear seats.  Instillation of these seats 
can give you instant sleeping quarters for two and the seats for a small dining 
area without taking up extra space from the car.

I addition I will throw in the special mounting bracket that holds two 2.5 Gal 
propane tanks to the underside of a 109 fourdoor (another Dormobile part).  This
can be thrown in for free if desired when purchasing the seats.

I have Dormobile interior panels (poor condition) with the plastic edging.  
These can be used as patterns for constructing new interior panels.  These can 
be thrown in for free if desired when purchasing the seats.

The seats are in good condition, but after so many years, have minor tares in 
the upholstry.  One seat bottom has had the upholstry removed.  I would suggest 
re-upholstering the seats before mounting, though the upholstry is in much 
better shape than what is in my 109 2 door (except for the one cushon bottom 
without upholstry).

I would like US$550 + shiping and boxing costs for these extreamly rare seats.

TeriAnn
twakeman@apple.com

------------------------------

From: Frederick_O._Ellsworth@bcsmac.org (Frederick O. Ellsworth)
Subject: Half-Shafts, Brakes, etc...
Date: 11 Sep 1995 04:08:21 GMT

Thanks to everyone for the advice on replacing half shafts.  
It went off without a hitch, took about 3 hours.  It was the short side that
broke, about 1 inch in from the inner end.  The long side looks fine but I
replaced it as well.  Interestingly, I drove about 20 miles after it busted
but I didn't find ANY metal shavings in the diff.  and the break was still
rough.  Was this luck or design?  

Now on to my second question.  My brakes have been getting progressively
mushier over the past three months so when I ordered the new half shafts I
also ordered a MC rebuild kit.  I could see some fluid leakage from the MC
and am pretty sure that's the problem.  (Our '71 IIA has the dual MC with air
assist servo.)

To start the process I undid the brake lines from the MC and then the
MC-to-servo retaining nuts.  I expected the MC to come right off.  It didn't.
 So I took off the whole assembly, pedal and all.  I still can't get the MC
off the servo but when I turned the servo unit over about a quart of brake
fluid came pouring out of the vacuum line.  So THATS where all the break
fluid I've been adding has been going.  

That's where I am now.  The MC won't come off the servo and the servo was
full of brake fluid.  Why won't the MC come off?  I'd really like to use the
same servo as they are NLS in the US - so I don't want to hurt it trying to
get the MC off.  Can I take the servo off the pedal bracket without breaking
some kind of seal?  
Anyone have any ideas on a next step? 

Thanks in advance for any advice.  
Fred

- sent via an evaluation copy of BulkRate (unregistered).

------------------------------

From: Scott_Lindsey-RP0342@email.mot.com
Date: 11 Sep 95 16:43:55 -0500
Subject: RE>Bought an '87 RR.

        Reply to:   RE>Bought an '87 RR.
Dave,
Congrats on the new vehicle!!! It sounds like you got a pretty good deal!!

I look forward to pulling you out of the woods with my FJ soon!!

Scott

PS. Are ya gonna sell your Acura now???
PPS. When we going out!!!

--------------------------------------
Date: 9/11/95 12:38 PM
From: DEBROWN@SRP.GOV@INTERNET
FROM:  David Brown                           Internet: debrown@srp.gov
       Computer Graphics Specialist * Mapping Services & Engr Graphics
       PAB219 (602)236-3544 -  Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486
SUBJECT: Bought an '87 RR.
Hello all,

Last week I asked for some input on a '87 RR for sale, and would like to
thank those who responded. Well, I ended up getting her for $8500 US. This
is around $4000 below the wholesale blue book value, but with reason, which
I will explain.

Problems: Lifter "ticking". (To me, it shows that the oil has not been
regularly changed as claimed) Leather seats "cracked" (surface cracks, again
showing neglect, drying out) one dash vent broken, holding on with tape,
Mylar "gear selector indicator" torn up, tear in back seat carpeting, stereo
and factory CD literally ripped out by thieves, (replaced by "Audiovox in
dash CD player) Hella auxiliary lights and LR fog lights all have cracked
(stone chipped) lenses, power seat switches broken, front door pockets torn
off (by the thieves), missing carpet to cover jack storage, and a variety of
little things broken or otherwise abused by use/abuse (2 *very* rowdy boys).
Oh! and the typical "lucas" bugs.

Good things: *never* been off road, (looked like new underneath, no leaks
except one swivel ball starting to leak) straight body, rino/moo/roo bars,
rear light guards, trailer package including those stupid lights *below* the
rear bumper, (where they're bound to be torn off), new Michelin tyres, A/C
works well, no unusual noises.

Anyone who knows me, knows that I *love* 4-wheeling! And that's a severe
understatement! So, without delay, I "had" to initiate this 8 year old
"virgin" (Oh! My! That didn't sound right... well, you know what I mean!)
So, using "shooting the guns" as an excuse, (like I needed one) we loaded
her up and took off. Handling was very nice, and seemed to be every bit as
capable as the Disco was. Only now, if I were to somehow destroy her, I
won't be paying on her for the next 5 years! Well, that un-marred paint
didn't last too long, I managed to get some of the typical "Arizona desert
pin stripes" in her. Not intentionally, as in aiming for them, but you know,
it just happens! (In fact, my 16 year old son was laughing at me, swerving
to avoid unnecessary contact with brush instead of thrashing right through
it.) I must have a little bit of that "new car" feeling in me. But it'll
pass with time. I do miss the ABS though, got used to it slowing me while
maneuvering the rig instead of plowing without steering control. Maybe
that's a bad thing about ABS, you "forget" how to brake effectively.

So, again, thanks to all who responded!! I really appreciate it!

 #=====#         #========#          -------,___           _______
 |___|__\___     |___|__|__\___      |--' |  |  \_|_      / /__|__\___
 | _ |   |_ |}   | _ |  |   |_ |}    |  _ |--+--|_  |     \_/-\___/-\_|}
 "(_)""""(_)"    "(_)"""""""(_)"    ||_/_\___|__/_\_|}      ( )    ( )
                                       (_)      (_)
 1971 "88" IIa   1970 "109" IIa     1994 Discovery (Sold) '87 Range Rover
                                     (Too hard to "draw")

#=======#                Never doubt that a small group of individuals
|__|__|__\___            can change the world... indeed, it's the only
| _|  |   |_ |}          thing that ever has.
"(_)""""""(_)"                                          -Margaret Mead

------------------------------

From: LANDROVER@delphi.com
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 1995 18:29:20 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Is this a good idea?

Will Cantrell asks...
 
> Would it be a good idea to find a good frame of a parts truck and have it
> hot dipped?
/

Sure... assuming everything is solid. You may have to drill extra holes in
the chassis so that the process is done correctly.

> How much would the galvinization cost?
> Where could I get it done?
/

They charge by weight. You'll have to ask wherever you get it done. It's
cheap enough to get all your galvi trim done at the same time. Where? Where
do you live? Check the yellow pages for something like "metal finishing" I
think.

> How long does it take to swap a chassis?(first time)
/

Depends on how badly things are rusted on and what kind of tools you have. I
talked to someone last year who did one on a three day weekend, I think.
That is very fast. Everything unbolts - but there are a LOT of bolts. taking
things off is usually easier than putting them back on - unless you are
trying to preserve the rusted stuff. You'll probably want to replace things
like brake pipes, spring bushings, etc just because it's worth doing while
everything is apart.

Cheers
  Michael Loiodice       E-MAIL   landrover@delphi.com              
  166 W.Fulton St.       VOICE    (518) 725-1859                    
  Gloversville                                                      
  NY, 12078              1965 Ser IIa 88 Petrol ("Sidney")      
              7          1972 Ser III 88 Petrol ("Fern")
           #:-}>         1971 Ser IIa 88 Petrol (Parts is Parts)
 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Sep 1995 15:36:06 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Francis J. Twarog" <ftwarog@moose.uvm.edu>
Subject: Defender 90 SW - USA

Saw a picture today of the hardtop 90 in the new Road and Track - looks 
just like one of those 43 limited number 90s from late MY94.  i.e. - no 
full EXTERNAL roll cage like the 110 - though the pic didn't include an 
internal view, so I can't vouch for an internal rollcage.  Wouldn't 
surprise me if there were an internal one like in the Camel Discoveries.  
Anyway, it looked really nice (white) and clearly showed a pop-up 
sunroof.  From dealers I've heard arrival begins in Nov. - the magazine 
says Oct.  Better act quick, though, cause the local dealership has all 
of theirs accounted for already...

Frank Twarog
Burlington, VT

BTW - Saw a really nice example of a Monteverdi Range Rover at Rovers 
North today (they were the company that produced conversions from 2 to 4 
doors in the early, pre-production 1980s RRs) as well as a beat-upon 
Camel Disco.  Look out for Chris Stark's 1950 80" Series 1 at the British 
Invasion - still early enough to have the lights behind the grill - LHD too!

------------------------------

From: BobandSueB@aol.com
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 1995 19:18:37 -0400
Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

In a message dated 95-09-11 04:38:16 EDT, Andy Dingley wrote:

>Check the tracking and toe out. Make sure it's adjusted by a mechanic who 
>knows that Landies toe *out*, not *in* !

Say What???
Don't  include all Landys  in your assumption! You are liable to mislead some
inexperienced owner.
I don't know about the Rangie,but the Landie does toe in! So watch your
wording please.

Bob B.

------------------------------

From: glewis@mgdestmx01.erin.gov.au
Date: Tue, 12 Sep 95 08:12:21 EST
Subject: G'day to LROs

I've been following the LRO Digest for some time now so time to introduce myself 
and my Landy.

I have a '71 2A 109 which I bought three years ago in Alice Springs.  I lived in 
Central Oz for three years before moving to Canberra for work - I'm really 
enjoying my first winter here in the ACT - NOT!!

>From what I found out from Alice Springs cab drivers, the Landy's log books and 
the local guru Terry Sutton, my 2A has spent 95% of its life in Alice and the 
other 5% at Daly River in the far north of the NT and the last 10 months in 
Canberra.  Taking it up for the first time in the snow was a new expereince for 
the landy, my partner Tina, and the panlicker (mut) - and my first time driving 
in snow.

Whilst at Alice I worked for an Aboriginal Land Council spending much of my time 
out on Aboriginal land with traditional owners - unfortunately in shiny new (and 
airconditioned) Tojo Landcruisers!!  In the heavy sand of the dry riverbeds, on 
weekend camping trips the landy's 4 wheel capabilities compared more than 
favourably with the 20 year younger competitor's (although she's pretty slow on 
the bitumen).

Former owners installed the Oz icon Holden 6 (179) a few years back along with 
FWHs, 2x aux fuel tanks, and added a behind the wheel wood panel with VDO guages 
and a Smiths Tacho.  Electrics were also replaced after the aux of the dual 
batteries (in a rear stowage box) moved and shorted on the frame.  The landy 
also came with a Dean offroad box trailer with matching clearance etc.

Ive since added a full length box steel roofrack w/ladder which has done little 
for the economy, and replaced stolen cibbie oscars with hellas.

Since the long haul down to Canberra I've had plenty of mechanical problems 
which all seem to fall back to the adaptor plate for the Holden 6:  clutch 
master and slave cylinder replacements (wet left boot and the pushrod kept 
falling off!); starter motor bolts not holding; worn clutch plate etc.  

The Holden offers good power for reasonable fuel consumption but I can's make 
the most of it without an overdrive.  Anybody in Oz got a cheap one?  Also, 
anyone with relevant parts, manuals etc?

Oh yes - one question - I am unsure as to servicing the Warn FWHs when I replace 
the wheel bearings - any info would be appreciated.

Also anyone after info on Central Oz - drop me a line.

Email:  glewis@mgdestmx01.erin.gov.au   Work Phone: (06) 271 2175

Cheers.         

------------------------------

From: dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au (Daryl Webb)
Subject: Re: Toe where???
Date: Tue, 12 Sep 1995 10:21:11 +0930 (CST)

> In a message dated 95-09-11 04:38:16 EDT, Andy Dingley wrote:
> >Check the tracking and toe out. Make sure it's adjusted by a mechanic who 
> >knows that Landies toe *out*, not *in* !

Bob Replies:
> Say What???
> Don't  include all Landys  in your assumption! You are liable to mislead some
> inexperienced owner.
Here Here, or even worse some lazy wheel aligner.

> I don't know about the Rangie,but the Landie does toe in!
Most of the series vehicles sure, but what about stage ones they toe out, or
at least should.  Try to find a wheel aligner who believes you, even when you
show them the manual....

Best bet would be to check the appropriate manual for your vehicle.

cheers
-- 

  Daryl

------------------------------

From: JEPurnell@aol.com
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 1995 21:20:21 -0400
Subject: Rusty D90s in Wisconsin?

Happy beer, cheese, and hockey LROs.  

Can anyone tell me if there are rust-prone spots on the D90s that I can
protect this coming winter?  Frame points?  I guess I am ok with the body,
being aluminium?  Is undercoating suggested?  

I am moving from Los Angeles to Madison, Wisconsin next month, from whence I
hail, (Tom Rowe, I'm comin' home!) after 10 years in heaven (yeah, right! why
leave then).  And I get to bring my Defender with me (how does the song go. .
. "let it snow, let it snow, let it snow.").  I am worried about my little
guy wasting away in the harsh environment, though, should I be?  I've read
horror stories about Series frames points falling off.  

Also, I'm beginning to wonder if I should've gotten the hard top instead of
the soft (didn't know I was moving when I bought it).  Can the soft tops
survive the snow, and freezing temperatures?  (and if it can, can *I* survive
with the soft top, heh heh.)

And speaking of cold temperatures, does anyone have experience with cold
starting these V8s?  Anything to do special? A bit thinner oil to help the
starter (the LA dealer likes his 20W50)?  REAL battery cables?   I notice
that the temp gauge gets up to normal (engine warms up) VERY quickly out
here, I wonder if the radiator bras that block off air are necessary for the
aluminum engine to stay warm?

Any help is very much appreciated. Thanks

John Purnell
California Air Resources Board-Engineering Testing Section (not for long...)
94 D90, No rust yet 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 Sep 1995 09:43:29 +0800 (WST)
From: TONY YATES <tonyy@waalpha.wa.BoM.GOV.AU>
Subject: 110 buying

G'day Doug,

Nice to see another Aussie on the list.

The main problem with buying a 110 is that there ain't many around.
This does work in your favour in some ways in that they are an
enthusiasts vehicle, so have probably been well looked after. A
good PO will have lots of receipts to show you.

V8 or diesel? Depends really what you will use it for. For long
outback trips then the diesel is the go. Expect up to 30 mpg and
diesel is easier to find and safer to carry.  For shorter trips
and the occasional longer trip I would go for a V8 but have it
converted to LPG.  Mine is a V8 on LPG and is as economical to run
as a diesel but with all the V8 advantages. Having said that, the
4BD1 is a bloody good motor, the army uses them after all!

Diesels are very hard to find though, you will find that most owners
don't want to part with them and they command a premium on the V8,
expect to pay $10k more.

4-speed or 5-speed? The 4-speed (LT95 - the number refers to the 
distance in mm between the main and layshaft centres apparently),
is a stronger box, the LT77 5-speed started life as a car gearbox
and I have heard stories of them falling apart if abused. They do
give you a better cruising speed though, especially in a diesel.
I don't think the 5-speed was introduced in the V8 at first as it
wasn't considered strong enough.  Mine is a 4-speed and will 
cruise happily all day at 110kmh.

The 4-speed has some problems. The centre diff unit can disintegrate
if abused.(expensive). This usually happens if the vehicle has been
used for heavy off roading without the diff lock being engaged.
Check to see that the diff lock engages/disengages properly. You 
can check this by jacking up one wheel, with the vehicle in gear and
the handbrake off you should be able to rotate the lifted wheel with
the diff lock disengaged but not with it engaged.

(Darryl's suggestion of tight figure 8s is a good one too)

The other problem you are likely to encounter is worn bearings, 
particularly the layshaft bearings.
This is evident by a harsh gear noise in 1,2,3 but quiet in 4. This
is not a huge problem, mine are worn and I have driven 50000km over
18 months including Darwin to Perth with no problems, you just need
to change the oil regularly. It does make a good bargaining point
though. Budget $1000 - $1500 to fix it.

I don't think it is easy to retrofit a 5-speed. The LT95 has an integral
transfer case but the LT77 has a separate one (called LT230), so they
are a totally different shape. I have seen it done on an old RR though.
Whichever you look at expect a clunky gearchange. Such is the nature
of the beast.

Enginewise - the V8 is a lovely motor but doesn't like being neglected.
They tend to sludge up if the oil isn't changed regularly leading to
sticky lifters etc. Listen for a rattly top end. Pull one of the
breather hoses off and look for oil being blown out, this indicates
wear. The cooling system needs regular flushes. Avoid weird carby
conversions, the original twin setup is the best.

Bodily there should be no major problems. The rear door internal frames
tend to rust out at the bottom, they all do it, I think a batch of
doors must have been left in a field for a while then exported to Oz!

The suspension bushes will probably all be worn, unless recently replaced.
Check for a worn load leveller. These are not worth replacing if worn
out, (replacement cost several hundreds), just take it off and throw it
in the bin then get polyairs if you're going to be carrying heavy loads.

The driving position may seem a bit cramped at first but I actually find
the seats very comfortable on long trips.

Don't pay more than $20k for a V8, expect $15-$20k depending on condition
and budget $5000 in repairs if buying at the lower end. Expect to pay
$25k+ for a diesel. (Or $34k for a Tdi Defender if you can afford it,
no? neither can I!). I paid around $16k for mine which was cheap but I
beat them down cos of the worn bearings and the rusty rear door. 

Happy hunting.

==========================================================
                                      ()  (  )      ()
Tony Yates                           (  ) (   )    (  )
Bureau of Meteorology               (    )(    ) (      )
Port Hedland                       (       )   )(        )
Western Australia                 (          ) ) --------
                                   ------------
ph:  (091) 401 350                 \\\**\\**\
fax: (091) 401 100                   \***\*\
                                       \\*\
email: A.Yates@bom.gov.au                \\

==========================================================

------------------------------

From: jpappa01@interserv.com
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 95 18:52:22 PDT
Subject: Re: 	Used D90

I posted a D90 4-sale for a friend of mine the other day:

1994 AA Yellow D90 with full soft top/full cage/fiberglass hard top/headlamp 
guards/28K+miles/flawless condition. Offers at $27,000. Other accessories 
available.

Now priced at $25,900.

Contact Conrad Omansky at 617-439-0288 (x116) during weekdays.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Sep 1995 22:22:44 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Stuart H. Moore-Roanoke College" <SMOORE@ACC.ROANOKE.EDU>
Subject: Parts needed

Hello Rover lovers:

      I sent a message last week but I think I sent it wrong.  Just
an update.  I have the transmission for my '61 SII back together
with the first and reverse gears replaced and all new seals in
place.  Now I need to work on the rest of the machine.

Questions:

     What do I use on my frame to protect it for the upcoming
winter months in Virginia?  It is in excellent shape except for
minor rusting on rear cross member.  While the floors are out it is
easier to get at.

     Does anyone know where I could find a used overdrive in good
shape?  While the tranny is on the shop table it would be a good
time to fit an overdrive.

     I also need a right front fender (the side fender not the
top).  My Rover is white but it is going to be painted anyway.  I
just need one which is straight.

     Last question...should I order the paint for the Rover from
Atlantic British or with a high quality paint from a local supply
shop (the proper LR color of course) work just as well.  In other
words is a special paint required for the Birmabright?

     Thanks in advance for any help!

                                             Stuart Moore
                                             Roanoke College
                                             Salem, VA

                                             '61 series II 88"
                                             '59 MGA Roadster
                                             '68 MGB-GT
                                             '74 MGB Roadster

------------------------------

Date: 11 Sep 95 22:27:22 EDT
From: "Lee S. Underwood" <71603.3051@compuserve.com>
Subject: 1996 Disco

On Sept. 7, Jim wrote:

 >> re: 1996 Discovery

 Consolidation of option matrix <<

 Can you clarify for me what this means?  Does this mean fewer option
combinations will be available?  Please forgive me if I'm dense.

 Lee
 Disco Owner Wanta-be

------------------------------

Date: 11 Sep 95 22:45:58 EDT
From: "Lee S. Underwood" <71603.3051@compuserve.com>
Subject: 1996 Disco

On September 7, Jim wrote:

 >> re: 1996 Discovery
 Consolidation of option matrix
 <<

 Can you clarify what this means?  Will there be fewer option combinations
available? Please excuse me if I am being dense.

 Lee
 (1996?) Disco Owner Wanta-Be

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Sep 1995 20:09:51 +0100
From: cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine)
Subject: Re: Parts needed

 Stuart H. Moore <SMOORE@acc.roanoke.edu> writes:

>     Last question...should I order the paint for the Rover from
 Atlantic British or with a high quality paint from a local supply
 shop (the proper LR color of course) work just as well.  In other
 words is a special paint required for the Birmabright?

 I think Atlantic British uses the DuPont paint system and paints.
 There is a list floating around which gives the DuPont paint color
 numbers and their Land-Rover equivalent.  Sometime back, AB or RN
 had a nice article in their newsletter on the painting process of
 Birmabright and aluminum.  It's not so much the paint as it is the
 preping of the metal to accept the primer, once the primer is on
 almost any paint can be applied.  To prep the aluminum/Birmabright
 there are a number of chemicals and steps involved, including
 cleaners, reducers, acid etch, etc., but DuPont has the entire paint
 system, and AB and/or RN offer instruction kits with all the chemicals
 sized according to the job you're doing.

 Good Luck (he, he),

 Michael Carradine, Architect                          Ph/Fax 510-988-0900
 Carradine Studios, PO Box 494, Walnut Creek, CA 94597 USA    <cs@crl.com>
 _________________________________________________________________________
 Mercedes-Benz Unimog 4x4 WWW page at:  http://www.crl.com/~cs/unimog.html

------------------------------

Date: 12 Sep 95 00:08:11 EDT
From: Mark Ritter <70472.1130@arl-gw-7.compuserve.com>
Subject: Lock Rite off road evaluation

The jury is in and the verdict is guilty - The Lock-Rite has increased the
off-road ability of my Disco a tremendous amount. A full test was done in the
Allatoona Wildlife Management Area north of Atlanta last Wednesday. This area
consists of many wet uneven hills up to 30 degrees in incline. Many are covered
with loose rocks the size of canaloupe. getting up these use to be a case of
getting the right amount of momentum, just enough to make it without hurting
anything. Now I can crawl up these slopes at a slow walking speed and just let
the vehicle work it out. No jarring to the top, just a smooth and controlled
ride with no terrain damaging wheelspin. It works the same going down too, you
just can't get cross-axled with three wheels locked together! The unit is still
working smoothly on the street with just a slight clicking to let you know the
outside whel is unlocking in a turn.I am convinced that I am creating less wear
and tear on both the vehicle and the trails by being locked up when needed as
there is no wheelspin and rough areas can be taken  at a snails pace. The
company is about to evaluate the unit on a D-90 and I will let you know how it
goes, but for the Disco and RR folks this should definitely be on your Christmas
list.
				Mark Ritter  94 Disco
Building the ultimate 
           			Disco one piece at a
        			time.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Sep 1995 20:58:01 -0700
From: Roger Sinasohn <sinasohn@crl.com>
Subject: Re: Environmental Abuse (Was: Rover Abuse)

> Every Unimog is equipped with at least one large waste can or bag to 
> retrieve unsightly traces of civilization, 

This is an excellent idea.  I think we should do the same with Land Rovers!

As an aside, on the Paradise run recently, Jeremy (? Jimmy? Gerry? Joe? 
Somebody!) spotted an old "Welcome" mat lying by the side of the trail.  He 
picked it up, and I borrowed it intending to use it as a bit of something to 
lie on while working on the 109".  Anyway, I ended up taking it home, and it 
now lies proudly on the floor of my garage for wiping one's feet on.  How's 
that for recycling!

Let's all plan on picking up trash whenever we're out and about!

---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Uncle Roger                         "There is pleasure pure in being mad
sinasohn@crl.com                                that none but madmen know."
Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
San Francisco, California

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Sep 1995 20:58:29 -0700
From: Roger Sinasohn <sinasohn@crl.com>
Subject: Palto Alo British Car Meet

So Sunday was the big British Car Meet in Palo Alto.  I had spent Saturday in 
Palo Alto as well, toting antique computers around in the 109", so at least I 
knew where I was going.  

Unfortunately, I didn't get to spend as much time as I would have liked at 
the meet; a friend had planned her 90th birthday party for the same day.  So 
I missed seeing and chatting with a number of folks from this list, as well 
as other, non-connected LRO's.  But I did see a few.

There were a total of 3 non-93 110's there, including Dom Diaz's Camel Trophy 
110, which he finally got registered.  I didn't see any of the 500 '93 110's. 
 (Frank, did you make it down?)  

Dan Connor (Danarosa) made it, though I didn't get to talk to him.  Brad 
Blevins, John Hess, Jimmy Patrick, Granville Pool, are just a few of the 
folks I got to say hey to.  All in all, I had a great time, but I wish I had 
had more time.  

I was also cooking and giving away hot dogs on behalf of LROA, which seemed 
popular, but I think that if I had planned it better and sooner, it would 
have worked out even better.  As it was, I didn't have my table, or a real 
sign, or anything.  Next time, eh?  Anyone want to help out?

Someone (an LRO from all the way in Reno!) suggested someone planning a 
get-together the night before at an Irish pub there.  Sounds like a great 
idea to me.  And maybe we don't even have to wait for a british car meet for 
that?

Anyway, I had a good time, though I was a bit disappointed in that I didn't 
get to stay too long.  Can't wait 'til next year!

---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Uncle Roger                         "There is pleasure pure in being mad
sinasohn@crl.com                                that none but madmen know."
Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
San Francisco, California

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Sep 1995 21:27:11 -0700 (PDT)
From: David Rosenbaum <rosenbau@u.washington.edu>
Subject: Re: Rusty D90s in Wisconsin?

On Mon, 11 Sep 1995 JEPurnell@aol.com wrote:

> To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net
> Happy beer, cheese, and hockey LROs.  
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 13 lines)]
> hail, (Tom Rowe, I'm comin' home!) after 10 years in heaven (yeah, right! why
> leave then). 

Dear John:
The Autumn, 1994 ROVER'S NORTH Newsletter had an article: "DEFENDING THE 
DEFENDER: HERE'S HOW TO KEEP RUST AT BAY" which called attention to six 
areas prone to rust: 1.Body Cappings, 2.Bulkhead Assembly, 3.Door 
Pockets, 4.Mirror Arms, 5.Cross Braces for Rear Floor and 6.Chassis. I 
have written for past articles from the Newsletter in the past and 
they've sent 'em. Their phone # is 802-879-0032.
 
(Vermont has some of the toughest winters in terms of *salt* (when I 
lived there '67-'81, the state had a "dry road" policy for the 
interstate hwy which meant salting until the road was DRY. On the way to 
becoming dry, the salt and snow and sand combined to make a corrosive 
abrasive slush that beat the tar out of all sorts of metal)

I have a copy of the article that I could send by mail or fax if you send 
me your address or a fax # ( but I also suggest that you get on Rovers 
North mailing list if you aren't already because they do offer very good 
mail order service and the newsletter has lots of other good stuff in it.)

Best wishes,
David Rosenbaum
'94 D90 in Seattle 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 Sep 1995 16:19:23 +1000
From: Lloyd Allison <lloyd@cs.monash.edu.au>
Subject: landrover.us.dell.com

Does anyone have any ideas what or where the machine `landrover.us.dell.com'
might be ?

Lloyd
Dept. of Computer Science, Monash University, Clayton, Victoria 3168, AUSTRALIA
tel: 61 3 9905 5205      fax: 61 3 9905 5146      email: lloyd@cs.monash.edu.au

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Sep 95 23:36:52 -0700
Subject: toe out? solex milage
From: Andre_Maier@mindlink.bc.ca (Andre Maier)

toe out?since when?all my literature says toe in and i do have a lot of
literature and i usually run one eighth of a inch to one sixteenth of an
inch toe in which is standard in the alignment industry.
mileage-22in an 88 with overdrive?not very good in my opinion.i got 22
canadian miles per gallon in a 72 88 with california emisions and 750-16
good year bias tires witha weber carb.my engine compression was around 135
per cylinder.and i was using cheap straight 30w oil.
i got 30 miles to the gallon U.S. last year when i went to the portland
ABFM in a lightweight with overdrive high compression head and dayton
radials 750-16 with a well tuned zenith carb and still running the 24 volt
system.
correction that was 3 years ago.but that also was with pennzoil 20w50.
yup what can i say i've been lurking for some time.
cris youngson-how was portland this year?

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 Sep 1995 16:52:26 +0930
From: Tiffany Downing <tiffanyd@tafe.sa.edu.au>
Subject: Re: Environmental Abuse (Was: Rover Abuse)

At 08:58 PM 11/09/95 -0700, you wrote:

>Let's all plan on picking up trash whenever we're out and about!

I'll second that!

Myself and a group of our friends went camping for a weekend up at Burra
(for those locals in the know - Worlds End Gorge).

We had planned to spend both days 4WDriving and the nights partying.
However when we turned up we saw that the camping area was strewn with bits
of broken glass, cardboard and rubbish from other campers.  We spent half
the day cleaning up the area and ended up filling four rubbish bags and 2
cardboard boxes full of glass and other rubbish.  We were amazed that people
could be so inconsiderate. These are the people that spoil things for everyone.

The council has now basically blocked off half of the areas up at Burra and
you can't drive anywhere.  They have turned a beautiful natural camping area
into a sterilised camping ground.  They've graded a huge area and turned it
into a car park with rubbish bins everywhere, fences, posts, do this don't
do that, all because some idiots can't be bothered covering their tracks.
IT SUX!!!

Sorry that's my winge for the day!

Regards

Tiffany Downing

********************************************
Co-ordinator, International Student Programs
TAFE South Australia, AUSTRALIA
Phone:   (61 8) 226 3202
Fax:     (61 8) 226 3655
E-Mail:  tiffanyd@tafe.sa.edu.au
********************************************

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 Sep 95 00:28:59 -0700
Subject: solex
From: Andre_Maier@mindlink.bc.ca (Andre Maier)

oh are you in luck.i just found it.!!!!solex model number B40 PA 10-5 is
used on Land-Rovers and Rover cars as factory stock item.engine size for
Landy is 3.562 by 3.5 by 4 and the Rover car is the P4 "80" 3.562 by 3.5 by
4.
what else do you need to know?
now i have a question.does any one have any experience with the Ian
Ashcroft conversions using a different transmission stronger than the 3
series but adaptable to the 3 series transfer case?not the muncie either.i
understand that there is a rover trans he uses that is newer than the 3
series and much stronger.i need strength for my v8 "80".
also.is there any one interested in some coil type axles 90 and 110 with or
without the 3.54 diffs?i have some units i would like to sell.
oh yeah back to the solex.if you would have bought an LRO like any
faithfull follower must do to support his obssession then in the august
issue it has a section on the 40 PA 10 carb.
and finally who is doing what for the 50th anniversary of LandRover? i have
be organizing a bunch of us with series ones for a good showing at all the
ABFM on the west coast(hopefully all) we have been troding along on our
restorations now because 98 will come up faster than you will imagine.

------------------------------

  END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST 
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