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Date: Tue, 29 Aug 1995 11:41:59 +0200
From: dbeers@eu.wang.com (David Beers)
Subject: Re: Newbie Questions

On the subject of the Jeep Grand Cherokee:

I would agree that Jeep products are somewhat less robust, but my main point 
of disatisfaction with a Jeep Wrangler that I used to own was not one of 
durability.  The offroad performance of the Wrangler in terms of suspension 
travel/articulation and clearance angles was not what I expected from the 
"legendary" Jeep.  I am talking about the stock Wrangler 2.5L without any 
mods.  Mechanical reliability was good, however.

Looking at the underside of the Grand Cherokee, I would say it is not 
designed for anything too severe, but will probably do good service as a 
tough 4wd station wagon.

Just my opinion,

-David

David Beers                      1989 Land Rover 90 TD HT
Wang Europe
Brussels, Belgium
Email dbeers@eu.wang.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Aug 1995 13:08:47 +0200
From: dbeers@eu.wang.com (David Beers)
Subject: Tubes Was: Tires for 109

I once read somewhere that tires with tubes were recommended for travel in 
very rocky country because of the risk of losing air from a tubeless tire 
when the rim has been deformed by rocks.  Can't say I have had personal 
experience with this, but it seems to make sense.

-David

David Beers                      1989 Land Rover 90 TD HT
Wang Europe
Brussels, Belgium
Email dbeers@eu.wang.com

------------------------------

From: Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: Recomendations on Generators/Alternators + Electrics
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 95 12:27:37 BST

Greg,
My '70 88" is still genny equipped.The price of a recon genny
(when the original one gave up the ghost) was,I think,ten quid,
or thereabouts,as against the (then) price of around thirty
for a recon alternator.
For short journey times IMO the alernator is a better bet.But,
having said that,almost all my journeys are short,and the battery
is still OK.Our batteries are no longer rated in A/hrs,due,no
doubt to some bloody stupid EC rule,but mine says Cold Cranking
410A 1min@18 deg C. 500 and something 1/2min at same temp.
The secret,in my case,I've found,is to have a *good* battery in
the first place.This one is a genuine Lucas(stop sniggering you
lot).The previous two were some cheapo make,and lasted a year.
This one is already two years old and (touch wood) is still going
strong.Its physically a *big* bugger,and damned heavy.Ideally a
two person job to lift in and out.I take it you're not operating
in sub zero temperatures,so your battery life should be resonable
anyway.
Of course,one of the advantages of being an Oily Wadder,is that
even with a dead flat battery,a tow start will get you away.
Finally,the advantage of a genny,is that its much easier to
repair yourself than an alternator,as I found out.However,as usual,
YMMV.
Hope this is some help.Good luck!

Cheers
Mike Rooth

------------------------------

From: Richard Jones <rich@apricot.mee.com>
Subject: Engine conversion
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 1995 12:21:24 +0100 (BST)

Kurt Reinhardt writes:
> 	Hi, I=B4m looking for an engine conversion of my 90 Range, which is powered=
> 	 by a
> 	2.5 l 6-cyl BMW Turbodiesel and ZF-4HP22 Gearbox. I don=B4t like this engine
> 	at all, because I=B4d prefer the 4-cyl VM or much more the TDI.

I don't think there is much doubt the BMW engine is the better one (used by Land Rover
in the new Range Rover).  However it doesn't get on particularly with the ZF box, though
the 1996 new Range Rover model line up will include a much tinkered with ZF box and BMW
Turbodiesel.  There may be some hope hear for improving the setup you have withut the 
engine swap.

> 	Now I want to
> 	exchange my engine through one of these.

If this is the route you really want to take, then read on.

> I=B4ve heard about a complete
> 	conversion Kit distributed by ROVER with the 200 tdi and all the stuff you
> 	need, like radiator, intercooler, exhaust and so on. Does anyone know, if
> 	this kit is available and much more important would fit to a genuine rover
> 	ZF-autobox ?

The ZF Box was available for a while with the 300 Tdi and ZF Auto.

>	Has anyone experience with the 200 tdi engine with an Automatic

In a Discovery - you really have to be prepared to grab the selector, pull it out 
of drive and use it as a manual box with an automatic clutch at times (steep hills,
etc.) but appart from that (provided you are not used to an auto V8) its fine.

> 	? Has it enough torque, or is the 300 tdi the first and only choice to be
> 	adapted to an auto ? As far as I know the kit comes only withh the 200
> 	engine, and because this engine wasn=B4t normally in a car with auto, I=
> 	 think

There are kits for Land Rover and Range Rover models, there should be an appropriate
Range Rover kit for what you want, But if there isn't ADI Engineering (usually have an
Advert in LRO International) have been selling Tdi conversion kits even longer than 
Land Rover and have lots of experience with the Auto box.

> 	there=B4s no radiator with integrated gear-box oil-cooler. Another problem
> 	would be the kickdown-cable, needed to be connected to the injectorpump. Do
> 	you have any tips to solve such problems ?

> 	Thank=B4s a lot
> 	Kurt
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
> 	0049 201 297876
> 	Kurt.Reinhardt@uni-dui.uni-duisburg.de
__ 
  _ __              Apricot Computer Limited
 ' )  )      /      3500 Parkside                 Tel:   (+44) 121 717 7171
  /--' o _. /_      Birmingham Business Park      Fax:   (+44) 121 717 0123
 /  <_<_(__/ <_     BIRMINGHAM  B37 7YS
 Richard Jones      United Kingdom                Email: richardj@apricot.co.uk 

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date:          Tue, 29 Aug 1995 06:43:04 GMT -0600
Subject:       RE:Bushes

Tiffany Downing writes regarding spring bushes:
> one wouldn't budge no matter what we tried.  We ended up burning it out.  I
> do not recommend this unless it is a FINAL LAST RESULT, because not only
> does it leave a really nice pile of mushy melted rubber that sticks to
> everything, but it STINKS!!!

Also, setting your Rover on fire can be plain hazardous (but 
exciting). I *did* use this method when I changed mine, though.

> We actually did something that we'd heard along the Landy grapevine - Freeze
> them.  This way they shrink slightly and can be inserted with not quite so
> much trouble.  This does not affect them in the slightest (well not so far
Snip

I used this method also, but since it was about 5 degrees outside 
when I was changing mine, it was hard to get them much colder than 
the frame. I heated the frame some with my torch. That's welding torch, not 
flashlight, although for all trouble I had it might well have been a 
flashlight.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

From: Whetstone_Steve%PAX7@mr.nawcad.navy.mil
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 1995 08:47:00 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Cereal Box Sighting

Of all places to find a Land Rover.  Regular Captain Crunch cereal that has 
the Traffic Jam Game on the back has seven 109 Soft Top Land Rovers in the 
traffic jam.  Bad depiction of the lights, and radiator panel but other than 
that pretty true to form.

Steve Whetstone
1964 SIIa SWB Diesel Station Wagon (being rebuilt)
Lexington Park, MD
USA

------------------------------

From: Easton Trevor <TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA>
Subject: Chassis Bushings
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 95 09:10:00 DST

To remove bushings that otherwise refuse to move. After removing the centre 
and all the rubber (mechanically. never burn the rubber out it can explode 
dousing you with molten rubber globules and the fumes are carcinogenic) weld 
a washer into the sleeve the heat causes the washer to expand and then as 
the whole assembly contracts it helps free it from its intimate bond with 
the frame. Now using a threaded rod ,or bushwacka, pull the remains out. If 
this fails just buy a new chassis!!!

Trevor Easton

------------------------------

From: Easton Trevor <TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA>
Subject: Tyres and Tubes
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 95 09:22:00 DST

John Y. Liu <johnliu@earthlink.net> writes:

>My trusty Sr. IIA 109 needs new tires.
> Can anyone suggest a suitable tire brand and size that would be available 
in
 the U.S.?
> And do you suggest mounting them with tubes

We have been through this thread before but as it is a safety concern it 
will bear repeating.

Michael  Carradine says
> I subscribed to belief that tubes should be run even
> with tubeless off-highway tires then says take some tubes along in case 
you need them.

Tyres on the 16" rims should always be fitted with tubes. The rim is not 
designed for a tubeless tyre and doesn't have the bead retainer that stops 
you peeling the tyre from the rim under heavy side loads. With radials be 
sure to use radial style  tubes, these are designed to accept the additional 
flexure of the walls, a regular tube will overheat and fail probably at 
speed which can be very embarassing.

Trevor Easton

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Aug 1995 07:25:14 -0600 (MDT)
From: Rob Bailey <baileyr@cuug.ab.ca>
Subject: Using a 109 Brake Master Cylinder in an 88

Group:

I'm planning on rebuilding both my clutch and brake masters in the next 
few days, as they both leak. You can actually watch the clucth master 
drip. As I have an old (63 SIIa 88) LR, both systems use the same 
resevoir (sp?) and the badly leaking clutch will affect the brakes if I 
don't catch it quickly. Anyway, I was planning on changing the clutch 
master over to the later separate resevoir type and the brake master from 
the 88 3/4" type to the 109 1" type. I expect to change the front brakes 
over to 11" and change the rear slave cylinder over to the 11" type as 
well, as per a friends suggestion, to improve brake performance. My question 
(finally) is what to expect by running the 1" bore brake master with the 
stock 10" brakes that  I will have in the meantime between converting the 
actual brakes over?

Does anybody understand this? Any input would be appreciated...

Thanks,
Rob

------------------------------

From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date: 29 Aug 95  9:36:39 EDT
Subject: Butyl-bedding side windows - help!

In my usual ignorance and confusion...8*), I disassembled my windows
to paint the frame and fix the rot holes. I realized that the triangular
side panes were:
a)grimy
b) covered with paint overspray from the mouth-breather not masking 
when painting
c) loose in the frame

First off, any good suggestions on getting these windows CLEAN
while I have them out and can use cleaners that would normally eat the
aluminum? They're so bad I can hardly see through them...

Secondly, how do I re-bed these windows? 
I've never had to do glass work before that didn't involve rubber
pre-formed gaskets and I find this a bit intimidating.

    Confused as always, Alan

------------------------------

Date: 29 Aug 95 08:40:08 EDT
From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com>
Subject: Re: Running On Two

Tom Rowe wrote:

> I was down again and out of desperation I put in new plugs. Ran like
> a top. Three of the four new Champions I had put in the previous
> year were defective. The moral? Don't overlook the ridiculous.

Funny you should mention that. Last year, we spent an entire day trying
to get a rebuilt V8 Efi to fire up and idle properly. Had about a dozen
ohm-meters, voltmeters, multimeters, strobes, you name it... connected
to the thing, browsed over piles of handbooks with settings, values,
tolerances... absolutely no dice. Next day, I decided to take _everything_
apart and look for something really unsusual - like a mice nest in the
air filter, or such. Arrived at the spark plugs at some stage, took the
first one out and noticed that it was *flat* - I mean, the electrodes were
practically in full contact, gap 0.000 . Ahaaa, I thought. Next spark...
same thing! Finally had all 4 spark plugs of the right cylinder bank
before me, and they were *all* flat! My conclusion was that probably some
jerk had dropped the pack of plugs on a hard floor, tips down, which
might have flattened the electrodes, and put the pack back in the shelf
without checking for damage. However this theory was soon shaken when I
had removed the remaining 4 plugs from the opposite bank and found those
also to be totally flat! Incidentally, these, too, where 'Champions'.
Now, for a V8 you obviously need 2 packs of spark plugs, and the packs
we used couldn't have both been dropped simultaneously by the same idiot,
because one was from our workshop where it had been sitting for some time,
and the other I had bought at a supermarket the day before because we
didn't have any more left - and I *didn't* drop it. The only logical
conclusion to this mystery is that somewhere along the manufacturing and
packaging process, Champion must have churned out a whole series of
defective plugs in substantial numbers that have subsequently been
shipped all over the world.
After bending the electrodes back to the correct gap setting and re-installing
the sparks, the V8 fired up instantly and purred like a kitten. That was
all there was to it.
Moral: See above...  And even when fitting *new* spark plugs, check the
gap and don't assume it to have the correct setting, regardless of what
it says on the pack!

Stefan
<Stefan R. Jacob, 100043.2400@CompuServe.com>

------------------------------

Date: 29 Aug 95 08:38:12 EDT
From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com>
Subject: Re: D90 seats in series LR

TeriAnn needs support...

>notice that the D90 seats have nice lumbar support and better cushening.  Upon
>closer inspection, they look like a bolt in fit on a series Land Rover.

>The thing that excited me the most was that the seat slides back so that the
>back is about two inches farther back than the back of a series seat.  Putting
a
>D90 seat in a series car looks like a way top get more leg room, better back

Yes, you can in fact fit 90 seats into a S.III (or IIA for that matter),
I did just that to my 109. But it's unfortunately not a straight 'bolt fit'.

The Defender seats are wider than the Series bumeaters, and you will have to
move them inwards a bit or you will constantly be squeezed against the door
and knock your elbow when steering. This means a) you need to drill at least
2 new holes to fit the new slide rails, b) you'll have to sacrifice at least
the backrest of the center squab seat, or the entire center seat, because
after fitting both new front seats there won't be enough space left in the
middle to accomodate the center seat (you could put a cubby box there
instead).
Regarding leg room, two things in the Series might get in your way: If
yours is fitted with the ominous handrail behind the front seats, the
adjustability of the backrests of the new seats will be severely limited.
Remedy: Throw out the hand rail and put it in the barn for the chickens.
Next, when sliding backwards the new seats will catch on the upward standing
upper rear rim of the Series front seat box - go and take a look, you'll
immediately know what I mean - , thus again limiting the backward travel
of the seat, leaving you with a *little*, but not much more leg room over
your old seats. The remedy here: Cut/flex away the rim just around and behind
the seat and rivet an angle bar (preferably galvanized) in place to hold the
seat box together in that area (don't forget sealant or you'll get mighty
wet pants when it rains). After this, you'll have the leg room of an average
Rolls Royce.
BTW, the front *passenger* seat of non-County Defenders is *not* adjustable!
So if you want to accord your passenger(s) the same luxury as yourself
you'll have to get _two_ driver seats, or the seats from a County. And
I'm assuming all along that you're talking about 2nd hand seats... no?
Because the price for _new_ original Defender seats... go ahead - just ask...

Stefan
<Stefan R. Jacob, 100043.2400@CompuServe.com>

------------------------------

Date: 29 Aug 95 08:39:07 EDT
From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com>
Subject: Re: ARC on the list?

I have the quasi-official statement from ARC Gen.Secretary Andrew Stavordale
whom I met with in Norway that currently the ARC is *not* on this list and
doesn't even have Internet access of its own, either.  They do have
indirect access to the 'net via a working colleague of another ARC
committee member who uses his company's Internet account for this purpose
(forgot the name unfortunately), and it was presumably via this route that
some ARC material found its way into the list and to some Web sites, and
the ARC managed to catch a few glimpses of what was going on here and
elsewhere Rover-wise in Cyberspace.  But as far as Stavordale knew, no ARC
member of committee status is subscribed to the list.

Stefan
<Stefan R. Jacob, 100043.2400@CompuServe.com>

------------------------------

From: William Terry <wterry@sartre.minerva.bah.com>
Subject: Re. 109 tires
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 1995 10:39:19 -0400 (EDT)

John,

I've run BFGoodrich All-Terrains on my Suzuki Samurai, Isuzu Trooper and 
now on my final, long admired, long awaited, IIA 109. All of these have 
been my daily drivers as well as my middle of nowhere campers, therefore, 
they see a lot of pavement too. I run them tubeless, but carry two spare 
tubes in case I need to do field repairs. The BFG ATs have been good 
off-road, in snow, sand and some mud. Actually for the 109, which I've 
only had in my hands since May and have only used for light off-roading 
so far, I was going to get the BFG Trac Edge, but availability and timing 
made it worth going with the ATs. For the trip you're talking about, the 
ATs should be good. My .02.

As for Costa Rica, my wife is originally from there and we have a lot of 
family there. Spent a month there in Jan-Dec and did some touring in a 
Samurai. We'll be going back in the next few months. If you'd like any 
comments or whatever email me.

Bill
 
______________W__i__l__l__i__a__m_____D__a__n_____T__e__r__r__y______________
  How do we acquire wisdom along with all these shiny things? (David Brin)

  wterry@sartre.minerva.bah.com
  http://glenfiddich.minerva.bah.com:8062/CyberJungle.html
  MINERVA Development Team, Booz, Allen & Hamilton

------------------------------

Date: 29 Aug 95 09:29:21 EDT
From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com>
Subject: Re: Newbie Questions (Jeep GC, etc.)

> to the extent of not being able to open the passenger doors.  (picture a GC
> hitting a brick wall at a 15mph, going backwards)  This is in a suburb of
 ...
> hotselling cars.  Oh well ... they should have bought a LR ... at least they
> would have been able to rebuild it themselves, eh?

Rebuild what?  The wall ??

------------------------------

From: Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk>
Subject: Plasti-Dip
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 95 15:43:07 BST

Does anyone know whether Plasti-Dip can be *brushed* on
(as against dipping small components in the tin),and if
so,what sort of finish can be obtained thereby?
It occurred to me that maybe,if it *can* there is a
permanent cure for the disintegrating steering wheel
syndrome.Also does anyone know the approximate drying
time of this stuff?
Cheers
Mike Rooth

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Aug 1995 08:06:59 -0700
From: justfred@netcom.com (Fred Heald)
Subject: Re: Movies

TONY YATES  <tonyy@waalpha.wa.BoM.GOV.AU> wrote:

|There was a 109" Safari in The Specialist, they blew it up in the
|first scene! (Why does that seem to happen so often to old LRs in
|the movies?).

Didn't you know?  _This_ is the reason only 80% of the LR's made (as quoted
in some article somewhere) are still being driven!  The rest have been used
as sacraficial props in action movies.

Fred Heald                                      justfred@netcom.com
WWW Home page: ftp://ftp.netcom.com/pub/ju/justfred/fred.html
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
"THERE MAY BE A RISK ASSOCIATED WITH CONSUMING RAW SHELLFISH AS IS THE CASE
WITH OTHER RAW PROTEIN PRODUCTS" - sign in New Orleans oyster bar
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: Harincar@WWW.mooregs.com (Tim Harincar)
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 1995 10:18:31 -0700
Subject: Re: Pointy Points

I wrote:

>> The problem was this: After I installed the points, it ran for about 20
>> miles and would then start to misfire. I'd check and adjust the gap, then 
>> it would run fine again for a short while (couple days) then begin to 
>> misfire.

>> Can points be "bad"?

>   Did they *need* adjustment after each 20 miles?

I started with the gap at .015, like the Haynes manual recommended. When I 
checked it the first time, they seemed a little tight, so I readjusted them 
and the same misfiring began shortly thereafter again. I thought they just 
might be a little tight, or "setteling" after the adjustment, so I adjusted 
them to about .019 or so, and that helped, again only for a short while. When 
I checked again, they were still over .016, but maybe not as high as .019 ( I 
can't really remember for sure now). I adjusted them again to .022, with the 
same symptoms accuring. Thats when I went back to both the old points and 
condenser. I gapped the old points at .015, as in the manual, and have had no 
problems since.

I check for wear on the cam rider. But for the sort time they were in there, 
plus a new film of grease on the cam, I don't imagine there'll be much. I 
mean, if plastic was wearing that fast, you'd think the rider would be gone 
in a couple of months of normal driving...

Tim Harincar
harincar@mooregs.com
'66 IIa 88SW

------------------------------

From: Andrew Grafton <A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk>
Subject: Rear seats in Series LRs
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 95 16:19:22 BST

Have just finished converting a Commercial bodied SIII to seat 4
(or 6, that is) by adding some forward facing rear seats for passengers.

Whilst undertaking the job, one small point that may be of use to
others came up.  I'm risking all credibility (as if I had any) by
reporting this to you...

The rear seat from an old-style Suzuki jeep (the ones that kept falling
over going round corners) fits perfectly between the rear side boxes,
creating a forward-looking seat for 2!  Some short work with a hacksaw 
on the seat legs and a few wooden blocks + bolts was all that was 
required.  .

Yup, our LR now has Suzuki donor parts (Aaargh!).  The seat back even
folds down out of the way when not in use...  Snazzy, huh?
The seat is totally removeable if required by undoing 4 (large)
bolts, leaving the pickup bed ready for use.

Hope this is useful to someone.

All the best,

Andy

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Aug 1995 08:36:22 +0100
From: cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine)
Subject: Re: Rog's misinformation......

'Uncle Roger' Sinasohn <sinasohn@crl.com> writes:

>When someone claims, in a public forum, that I don't know what I'm talking
>about...  I have to respond in public as well.

 Attaboy, Roger! You tell'em...

>I use what best gets the job done.  And when others have problems, I try to
>help. ...and (others) may be able to help me out with one of my many LR
>problems.

 That's the Land-Rover spirit!!

 Michael Carradine         ?           '65 IIA 88" 'Rumpole of the Bay' at
 cs@crl.com                _\    __      http://www.crl.com/~cs/rover.html
                          [__[__[__]
 _________________________(o)___(o)_______________________________________

------------------------------

From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date: 29 Aug 95 11:46:45 EDT
Subject: Re: Plasti-Dip

Plasti-Dip can be brushed on by diluting it with toluene. Personally,
i wouldn't want to do it to my steering wheel, as the "feel" of this
stuff is not all that pleasing.

I'm giving some serious thought to trying an appliance epoxy on mine,
just to givi it a stable coating, thn blowing a few dollars on a leather
cover... yuppie wimp that I am...<grin>

     Alan

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Aug 1995 12:32:37 -0500 (EST)
From: Duncan Brown <DB@CHO004.CHO.GE.COM>
Subject: Tyres and tubes

> Tyres on the 16" rims should always be fitted with tubes. The rim is not 
> designed for a tubeless tyre and doesn't have the bead retainer that stops 
> you peeling the tyre from the rim under heavy side loads. With radials be 

    I just bought 5 brand-new 16" Land Rover Genuine wheels (well, OK,
    Dunlop makes 'em, but they came with a Land Rover piece of cardboard
    stuck in the center!)  I was told they were intended for use with
    tubeless tires.  Does your statement above apply only to the
    original (1960's/70's) wheels, or also the brand new ones?

    Duncan

------------------------------

From: hlapa@Zeus.signalcorp.com
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 95 12:38:23 EST
Subject: Re: Butyl-bedding side windows - help!

Alan,

For cleaning the glass, how about the various liquids for 
cleaning stiff paint brushes, or spray-on oven cleaner, or 
even gel-type paint stripper.  If they're excesively 
scratched, I think there is some kind of cerium oxide (?) 
glass polishing compound.

I removed/reinstalkled the fixed glass on my front doors a 
few years back.  Used a 3M product that comes in a roll and 
looks like black liquorice about 1/4" in diameter.  Unroll 
it directly into place on door frame, peel off the 
protective waxy paper strip, press glass into place.  It 
seals well and compresses as necessary so you can refit the 
aluminum retainer strips.  If it oozes out too far, trim the 
excess off with a razor blade.  Piece of cake.  Get it at 
auto body supply shops.

Regards,
Hank

> Subject: Butyl-bedding side windows - help!
> Author:  Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com> at 

	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 32 lines)]
> pre-formed gaskets and I find this a bit intimidating.
>     Confused as always, Alan

------------------------------

Date: 29 Aug 1995 10:17:00 -0500
From: "Sean McInerney" <smcinerney@mail.nrgn.com>
Subject: None

None
>From Leland J. Roys:

>One got-cha is that two people are better in putting the cradle
into the reciever (it weighs a lot and you have to center it to slide it
in, sorta like sex), other than that it was fine.

"UNIQUE" analogy!?!

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Aug 1995 13:06:40 -0500
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Hot 'n' cold

Is there any vehicle hotter in the summer and colder in the winter than a 
Land-Rover?  Well, just in time for winter, I'm attempting to do something 
about the former, namely, heat in the footwells.

I've seen this stuff in J.C. Whitless: 2" wide fiberglass insulating tape 
and now's a good time to try it.  Five or six years ago, I bought a complete 
"Double S" stainless steel exhaust system; it was cheaper than buying the 
intermediate pipe and exhaust pipe, which was all I really needed.  Now, the 
front pipe (just plain, ol' steel) has failed (though the intermediate SS 
pipe has been re-welded at the flange twice and the "lifetime" muffler 
once).  I'll wrap the new stainless down pipe with this wrap and report on 
the results after a long, hot run this weekend.

Why don't I just fit the heat shield, you say?  In my book, the heat shield 
(fitted only to left-hand drive Rovers) is the number on cause of cracked 
exhaust manifolds.  The club had a spate of cracked manifolds back in the 
'70's and after the heat shields were deep-sixed, there hasn't been *one*.
We'll see....
      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |       Rover Owners' Association of Virginia         |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 804-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    804-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 804-622-7056     |
      *-----------------------------------------------------*

------------------------------

From: kessels.bill=40ott01=40c14a#%forwarder@ey.geis.com
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 95 17:20:00 UTC
Subject: D90 latch failures

(LAN Addressees) LRO submissions
 
I recently had the passenger door latch replaced after it self destructed.  In
addition, I am currently on my third (count 'em) hood release cable assembly.
When I had the door latch replaced I had both doors re-shimmed, appears they
were out of adjustment (which may have precipitated the latch's failure).  I
am wondering if the door problems and the hood release problems are due to the
body shifting during off-road activities, some of it pretty heavy (not to be
confused with OVLR's definition of "heavy off road"--which is somewhat, ummm,
"heavier"....:))
 
Is body shift causing doors/hood to go out of adjustment normally experienced
in these situations and could it cause these problems, or is it a Land Rover
Quality Control problem  wrt the hardware?
 
Bill
kesselsb@ey.geis.com
94D90
3
2
1

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Aug 1995 10:13:35 -0700
From: growl@hsmpk14a-101.Eng.Sun.COM (William L. Grouell)
Subject: Re: Using a 109 Brake Master Cylinder in an 88

> resevoir (sp?) and the badly leaking clutch will affect the brakes if I 
> don't catch it quickly. Anyway, I was planning on changing the clutch 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 14 lines)]
> Does anybody understand this? Any input would be appreciated...
> Thanks,
> Rob

 The resevoir is suppossed to have a divider so that one system going down
will not drain the other.

 The 1" bore master will require more peddle pressure to achive the same
shoe pressure with either system. I have 11" two leading shoe brakes on
the front of my 88" with a 3/4" bore master. Rears are stock 10". Works fine.
If you keep everything in good shape and adjusted, you don't need the volume
of fluid from the 1" bore and the reduced peddle pressure will not make you
want to install a vacume assist.

R, bg  

------------------------------

From: Rick Snyder <snyderr@hpanvs.an.hp.com>
Subject: Tires for Range Rovers?
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 95 13:27:30 EDT

I too am looking for any experience people on the list might
share regarding alternate tires for the Range Rover, particularly
wider tires than the 205.

My requirement is for driving in *very* deep, soft sand.  The 205's
work OK however I have been in some scary situations with them even
airing them down to 12 psi.  I think that 235's would be much better
but before I experiment (and invest) I wondered what others might have
to say.

I posted this same question some time ago (when the list was having a few
distribution problems) but got only one response. That was from Bart
Marcenaro who suggested the Michelin XS 7.50x16 (a.k.a. Michelin Sahara).
I can't seem to find them here in New England so I'm still looking.

Any thoughts??

Rick Snyder
snyderr@hpanvs.an.hp.com
'71 IIA
'91 RR

------------------------------

From: Leland J Roys <roys@hpkel13.cup.hp.com>
Subject: Def-90 Hood Latch
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 95 11:06:47 PDT

Re: Hood Latch 

There is definately a problem with the hood latch on the Def-90s I am also
on my second hood latch (covered by warrenty) and I am betting that a 
third is going to be needed. Bill, did you notice how hard it is to pull
that danged hood latch, even when replaced with a new one, I think it
is definately a design problem.

Leland J. Roys
Cupertino, California
'94 Defender 90 (Red)
roys@hpkel13.cup.hp.com

------------------------------

From: kirkwood@strider.fm.intel.com (Clayton Kirkwood)
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 1995 11:13:18 -0700
Subject: Brush/Bull guard testimony

This is for anyone wondering whether the front Brush/Bull guard is worth it.
I can emphatically say yes!! Let me explain:

My wife (sitting in the front pass. seat), baby (middle of middle seat) and
two pre-teens (in the jump seats) and I were driving our 95 Discovery to
Georgetown, Ca this last Saturday morning around 10:30 am to go do some
offroad enjoyment. We were doing around 60 or so on a gentle curve with
little to no traffic. I was talking with my wife and glanced over to her,
when suddenly she goes, "Ah,...Ah...Ah". I just turned my head forward as we
slammed into a nice sized deer. (First major road kill!!)

The right rear leg did a two inch crease in the forward directed tube and the
whole brush bar was pushed back into the hood and front of the fenders doing
no apparent damage other than rubbing the black paint of the tubing onto the
white paint (this will probably only need a buffing out). The front license
plate was jarred loose and the right front headlamp washer was broken. No
other discernable damage.

As we hit the deer, a chunk came flying over the top of the car. We weren't
even jarred by the collision: the biggest thing that seemed to happen and
startled everybody was the loud thud (it woke the baby up). After the
collision, I stopped and took a survey of the front end. Again, there was no
other apparent damage to the body and engine compartment. In terms of simple
dollars and cents, the initial brush bar cost has already paid for itself in
savings on repair bills (insurance will pay for any and all damage over the
100 dollar comprehensive deductible). More importantly, the savings in lives
has been definitely worth having the brush bar. If we had been in a smaller
4x4 or especially a sedan (especially one with a raked front) the deer would
have been lifted and thrown through the front windshield killing my wife at a
minimum. As it was, the deer was thrown out of the way/driven over with no
injury to any of us.

We thanked God and went on with the rest of the day.

-- 
Clayton R. Kirkwood, FM1-58, 916 356-5838

------------------------------

From: hlapa@Zeus.signalcorp.com
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 95 14:50:12 EST
Subject: Re: Brush/Bull guard testimony

Clayton,

I'm sending a copy of your post to my wife in Japan right 
now.  A few years back, she smacked a small deer while 
headed toward Georgetown (the one in DC) in a VW Golf.  
Needless to say, it was not a matter of simply proceeding on 
with the rest of the trip as in your case.

I'm sure she'll appreciate the brush bar-equipped Disco we 
decided to get as her daily driver for commuting around the 
wild, untamed Nation's capital.  

Now if we can just get rid of those those jackasses all over 
the roads (and in the House, Senate, ...)

Best regards,
Hank

To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net

This is for anyone wondering whether the front Brush/Bull guard is worth it. 
I can emphatically say yes!! Let me explain:

My wife (sitting in the front pass. seat), baby (middle of middle seat) and 
two pre-teens (in the jump seats) and I were driving our 95 Discovery to 
Georgetown, Ca this last Saturday morning around 10:30 am to go do some 
offroad enjoyment. We were doing around 60 or so on a gentle curve with 
little to no traffic. I was talking with my wife and glanced over to her, 
when suddenly she goes, "Ah,...Ah...Ah". I just turned my head forward as we 
slammed into a nice sized deer. (First major road kill!!)

The right rear leg did a two inch crease in the forward directed tube and the 
whole brush bar was pushed back into the hood and front of the fenders doing 
no apparent damage other than rubbing the black paint of the tubing onto the 
white paint (this will probably only need a buffing out). The front license 
plate was jarred loose and the right front headlamp washer was broken. No 
other discernable damage.

As we hit the deer, a chunk came flying over the top of the car. We weren't 
even jarred by the collision: the biggest thing that seemed to happen and 
startled everybody was the loud thud (it woke the baby up). After the 
collision, I stopped and took a survey of the front end. Again, there was no 
other apparent damage to the body and engine compartment. In terms of simple 
dollars and cents, the initial brush bar cost has already paid for itself in 
savings on repair bills (insurance will pay for any and all damage over the 
100 dollar comprehensive deductible). More importantly, the savings in lives 
has been definitely worth having the brush bar. If we had been in a smaller 
4x4 or especially a sedan (especially one with a raked front) the deer would 
have been lifted and thrown through the front windshield killing my wife at a 
minimum. As it was, the deer was thrown out of the way/driven over with no 
injury to any of us.

We thanked God and went on with the rest of the day.

-- 
Clayton R. Kirkwood, FM1-58, 916 356-5838

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Aug 95 15:49:25 EST
From: "Hadley, William H." <whadley@INETGATE.ushmm.org>
Subject: Funny Questions...

     Hello to all fellow Rover owners, and other wacky people...
     
     I have been secretly listening in for a number of months and have 
     gained quite a bit of valuable information from the digest. I am also 
     diggin' the many "web sites" open to us neat computer people. So from 
     the bottom of my sediment bowl. Thanks
     
     In an attempt to get "Nessie" ready for the "Mid Atlantic Rover Mecca 
     Pilgrimage," here on the East Coast, I have a couple of questions:
     
     I am in the market for a new fuel tank for my 88" and was wondering if 
     anyone has replaced there "original" tank with one of those single 
     seamed tanks that resemble the seventies styrene McDonald's Big Mac 
     packages? If so how is it working out?
     
     I am also going to purchase new door latches, and was wondering if I 
     should replace my Series IIa ones with the Series III style. I realise 
     I will have to put a little hole in "Nessie's" skin, but I might have 
     a better chance of keeping her doors shut and locked. I have a Early 
     Series IIa Station Wagon and the rear door has a "stylin'" mechanism 
     that I don't believe I can get in a Series III latch. It has a 
     vertical bar that can be pulled by one of the jump seat passengers to 
     exit the vehicle. Has anyone seen these on later models?      
     
     I have a question from David Bobeck..."Does anyone have any secrets 
     for keeping there Rover from tipping over it's "High-Lift" jack when 
     lifting from the front bumper?"
     
     Thanks very much
     
     Will Hadley
     E: whadley@USHMM.org
     Washington, DC
     Tel:202.488.0473
     
     '62 Series IIa 88" SW, "Nessie" (the lil' green monsta that's seldom   
                             seen)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Aug 95 22:18:06 +0200
From: sm095re@unidui.uni-duisburg.de (Kurt Reinhardt)
Subject: films

Hi guys, here in good old germany there has been a TV-trilogy produced and I
think directed by Oliver Stone. There one group drove several complete black
Range Rovers with black tinted windows all around. Looks really great. The
most beatiful sequence was a hunt a the beach, where two Ranges have fun on
the beach. Look at it in slow motion, marvelous. For the FX in blasting one
of them, they used another 4x4 (I think an IHC or an old cheeroke).Wise man.:-))

Kurt Reinhardt
Germany
Kurt.Reinhardt@unidui.uni-duisburg.de

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Aug 1995 14:57:57 -0600 (MDT)
From: Rob Bailey <baileyr@cuug.ab.ca>
Subject: Re: Using a 109 Brake Master Cylinder in an 88

On Tue, 29 Aug 1995, William L. Grouell wrote:

>  The resevoir is suppossed to have a divider so that one system going down
> will not drain the other.

Yes, I thought it had a divider, but it appeared at first as though only 
the clutch master was leaking. It now appears as though both are 
leaking... I wonder if I should just stick to the single can type 
resevoir, as opposed to going to the new type clutch resevoir?

>  The 1" bore master will require more peddle pressure to achive the same
> shoe pressure with either system. I have 11" two leading shoe brakes on
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> of fluid from the 1" bore and the reduced peddle pressure will not make you
> want to install a vacume assist.

So, by two leading shoe brakes, you mean that they are the normal front 
11" brakes from a 109? No mods to the back, eh? I have the full 11" set 
up from a 109, just needs rebuilding. I expected to have to change the 
rear slaves as well, as per a friend here in Calagry that did the mod. It 
would be nice not to have to do anything to the rear, as I just rebuilt 
them. 

Rob

------------------------------

From: Sanna@aol.com
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 1995 17:46:17 -0400
Subject: Re: Funny Questions...

>I am also going to purchase new door latches, and was wondering if I  should
replace my Series IIa ones with the Series III style.

I did that to my '70 IIa in the mid '70's.  The old IIa door latches were
prone to popping open.  The new style II latches solved that problem
completely.  The were a direct fit, however.  I didn't have to do any body
modifications at all.

Tony

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Aug 1995 15:03:32 -0700
From: matts@cacilj.caciasl.com (Matt Snyder)
Subject: More RR Tire Info?

I have 225's on my '88 RR, with no problems, but you can almost certainly go 
bigger.

-Matt

------------------------------

From: LANDROVER@delphi.com
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 1995 19:22:29 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Funny Questions...

Will Hadley asks...

>      I have a question from David Bobeck..."Does anyone have any secrets 
>      for keeping there Rover from tipping over it's "High-Lift" jack when 
>      lifting from the front bumper?"
/

Kinda hard to do. They do make an accessory which looks like two high-lifts
spaced about 2 feet apart with horizontal bars between them. You attach your
jack in the middle to lift. The accessory has locking pins to latch
everything in position.  Much more stable. I think it's all made by Jack-All.

Cheers
  Michael Loiodice       E-MAIL   landrover@delphi.com              
  166 W.Fulton St.       VOICE    (518) 773-2697                    
  Gloversville                                                      
  NY, 12078              1965 Ser IIa 88 Petrol ("Sidney")      
              7          1972 Ser III 88 Petrol ("Fern")
           #:-}>         1971 Ser IIa 88 Petrol (Parts is Parts)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Aug 1995 16:56:26 -0700
From: growl@hsmpk14a-101.Eng.Sun.COM (William L. Grouell)
Subject: Re: Using a 109 Brake Master Cylinder in an 88

> So, by two leading shoe brakes, you mean that they are the normal front 
> 11" brakes from a 109?

Correct. Two "leading shoe" means two slaves on each wheel, so each shoe
"self servos" when stopping (moving forward.) That is, the drum rotation
tends to pull the shoe harder into the drum, helping you push the pedal.

> No mods to the back, eh?

Correct. Stock 88" brakes on the rear.

> I have the full 11" set 
> up from a 109, just needs rebuilding. I expected to have to change the 
> rear slaves as well,

You know you must change the backing plates and all...  ??

> as per a friend here in Calagry that did the mod. It 
> would be nice not to have to do anything to the rear, as I just rebuilt 
> them. 
> Rob

 I don't think you would gain that much by changing the rears. Save the parts
and maybe do it next time? Keeping the 3/4" bore master reduces pedal
pressure by about 33% for the same shoe pressure. But, the brakes need to be
adjusted more often because there is a corresponding loss in displaced
fluid volume. Putting on the larger rear slaves will add to the fluid volume
problem and there is little to gain in stopping power. The two leading shoes
on the fronts are the big win.

R, bg

   

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Aug 1995 17:19:30 -0700
From: growl@hsmpk14a-101.Eng.Sun.COM (William L. Grouell)
Subject: Re: Funny Questions...

 
> I did that to my '70 IIa in the mid '70's.  The old IIa door latches were
> prone to popping open.  The new style II latches solved that problem
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> modifications at all.
> Tony

>old IIa  new style II   ????
 
  Just to add some confusion, I think this is backwards. The newer style (so
called anti-burst) were discontinued because they were prone to early failure.
The "station wagon" rear door latch (NLS) can be directly replaced by the
one for the right door. It won't have the silly handle sticking up, but the
damn thing just rattles anyway. No holes to drill.

R, bg

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Aug 1995 17:32:53 +0800
From: dimitry@uask4it-101.Eng.Sun.COM (Dimitry Struve)
Subject: Discovery Questions (was: Newbie Questions)

Well, I've driven a few Discoveries now and have some more
questions:

I'd really like a 5 speed, but put most of the miles on an
automatic demo, which I must admit I liked. Any recommendations
one way or the other - specific to this vehicle and trans, not
manual vs. auto religious opinions.

Every one I crawled under at the dealer had oil leaks. The demo
unit (2500 miles) was pretty oily underneath. Trouble spots looked
like the filter or front seal. Is this common/fixable/ignorable?

Air conditioning didn't seem great - black car sitting outside
on a sunny; took a long time to cool down. What do people think?

Xfer case shifter was very difficult to shift, handle was loose.
Much harder than my manual case Ford. Is this typical?

A few loose plastic bits. Is this typical?

Brakes really stank after a hard (onroad) downhill in 2nd in the
automatic. No noticeable fade though. Is this a problem?

Other than that I loved it. The salesman told me to stay on-road,
and since he trusted me taking it out alone I respected that. But
I took it on a very steep twisty one-and a half laner with potholes
(and tempting two-tracks leading off!) and loved the handling, ride
and power.

-Dimitry

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Aug 1995 18:16:27 +0100
From: cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine)
Subject: UK Reg plate system

 Rumpole is stumped!

 While trying to locate cousins in the homeland, figuring some might come
 up for sale from time to time in the back pages of LRO and LRW, Rumpole
 ran across a strange system of vehicle registration.  Seems that certain
 designations are indicative of the year a vehicle was built, ie. A-reg,
 L-reg, Y-reg, etc.  Is there an Englishman (or foreign spy!) who might
 explain the system to ol' Rumpole?

 Also, any thoughts what 'with tilt' or 'no tilt' means?

 Michael Carradine         ?           '65 IIA 88" 'Rumpole of the Bay' at
 cs@crl.com                _\    __      http://www.crl.com/~cs/rover.html
                          [__[__[__]
 _________________________(o)___(o)_______________________________________

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Aug 1995 19:15:44 -0700
From: Roger Sinasohn <sinasohn@crl.com>
Subject: Re: Tires for 109?

I like my Radial Rovers.  (Dunlop).  Not the most aggressive tire in the 
world, but they've performed very well for me (except on snow when I only 
aired down to 45psi.)  

And I don't really know the advantages/disadvantages (aside from cost of 
repair), but subjectively, I prefer to have tubes.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Uncle Roger                         "There is pleasure pure in being mad
sinasohn@crl.com                                that none but madmen know."
Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
San Francisco, California

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Aug 1995 19:15:25 -0700
From: Roger Sinasohn <sinasohn@crl.com>
Subject: Re: Viscosities

> So 0W30 is thicker than water when cold
> and almost as thin when hot. 
[...]
> OK to have a nice thin oil for starting at -40, but do you want 
> this watery mix in your engine at operating temperatures? 
[...]
> Personally for starting on cold mornings I prefer a block heater and stick 
> to 10W40 as a minimum. Longevity wins over easy starting every time.

To clear up a couple of points, thinner oil makes for easier starting?  This 
is because it's easier to turn the engine in it?  (like the difference 
between trying to drive through water and through mud.  The thicker the mud, 
the tougher it is.)  

So, by your comments, I'm guessing that 10W40 is thicker than 0W30?  Which 
would mean 20W50 is thicker still?  

And you're saying that thicker oil makes it harder to start, but stays 
thicker at running temperatures which is good.  This is because if it were as 
thin as water, it wouldn't do much good as a lubricant?  

Seems to me that the operating temperature thickness (viscosity?) is more 
important than starting thickness (for ease of starting.)  As you said, 
"Longevity wins over easy starting every time."

Thanks for the info!  (Sorry for all the bonehead questions!)

---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Uncle Roger                         "There is pleasure pure in being mad
sinasohn@crl.com                                that none but madmen know."
Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
San Francisco, California

------------------------------

From: dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au (Daryl Webb)
Subject: Re: UK Reg plate system
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 1995 12:30:56 +0930 (CST)

Mike asks about that baffling UK rego stuff.

Below is an excellent post from Bill Leacock on the subject:

cheers 
Daryl.

Date: 06 Feb 95 20:11:41 EST
From: "WILLIAM  L. LEACOCK" <75473.3572@compuserve.com>
Subject: UK registration numbers

So you want to know the UK vehicle registration system
 The first thing to note is the number represents the YEAR OF FIRST
REGISTRATION, and NOT the year of manufacture
 Up until 1962 the number generally consisted of a combination of letters and
numbers, two of the letters were codes for the office that issued tthe number,
the rest were the sequence number.
 In 1962 some offices had run out of sequence numbers so the A suffix was
started in 1963., some offices kept the old system for 63, then in 64 the whole
country started with the suffix B. 65 was C, 66 D, then in 67 the system
switched to an August change date , so E was 67 first half to the end of July ,
then F was 67 August 1 st  to july 31 st  68.
68/69 G: 69/70 H: 70/71 J: 71/72 K; 72/73 L; 73/74 M, 74/75 N; 75/76 P;
 76/77 R; 77/78 S; 78/79 T; 79/80 V ; 80/81 W ; 81/82 X; 82/83 Y
 Then it changed to a prefix letter,
83/84  A; 84/85 B ; 85/86 C ;  86/87 D; 87/88 E; 88/89F ; 89/90 G; 90/91 H;
 91/92 J; 92/93 K; 93/94 L ; 94/95 M.
 It is possible to change the reg from one vehicle to another providing both
vehicles are licensed and tested, and of the same year of manufacture or OLDER,
not newer.
  Many LR's were released by the military in the 60's and 70's, they were given
the reg number of the 'year of registration', ie a 58 ser 1 released and
registered in say Feb 69 would have a G plate.
 Then in 83 they stopped issuing numbers of the year of registration for older
vehicles, many were then given a Q prefix, unless the YEAR OF MANUFACTURE could
be proven, then they were given a year related number.
 Are you with me so far ?.
 If you build a LR body of say 64 vintage onto a RR chassis of say 76 vintage
you can use either number if you conveniently lose the one you do not want.
therefore there are plenty of 60's ser 2 's with coil sprung chassis about in
the club circuit.
 Caveat emptor. The LR as we all know is a big kit car, therefore there are
many motors on the roads that are not what they seem, it is so easy to change
the bulkhead number plate, Craddock sells  blank replacements for 15 bucks,
the ones from Rover cost a couple of hundred dollars and need plenty of
documentation. 
 It is possible to send the log book to Swansea (licensing centre for the
country ) and have the engine number changed with no formality.
 Log books carry the written warning that a log book is not proof of ownership.
 Log books can be bought ,sold , exchanged in several places, not legally  I
might add, to  give any year of reg. you want.
 Pre suffix reg numbers usually command a premium in the used number market,
many older vehicles are worth more for their numbers than for the vehicle.
 There are a few pre suffix numbers issued nowadays that cannot be exchanged
from one vehicle to another, they contain the letters WS as the last of the
three letter sequence.  Makes me feel old now that I think of the days we
looked for a B reg on the 1st Jan 1964 to see which neighbour could afford a
new car. Many people now wait for the new letter in August each year.
 Hope that it is clearer than mud,  any questions give me a call.
  
regards    Bill  Leacock    limey in exile  

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Aug 1995 21:59:46 -0500 (CDT)
From: David John Place <umplace@cc.UManitoba.CA>
Subject: Trade diesel pump for carb

I have a diesel pump pre prefix J engine that looks very good.  I 
understand they sell for about the $800 American range new.  I would like 
to trade a "good" Weber carb and manifold to hold it or something carb 
like to replace my poor Rochester. I have lots of diesel parts.  They all 
come from a pre J prefix engine.  Since getting a book from Dale Despray 
I now know that at J there were some parts differences in the IIA so 
check your engine if you want this unit.  It would be best to be state 
side or here in Canada for shipping but I guess anywhere is OK if you 
don't mind shipping it.  Dave VE4PN

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Aug 1995 21:24:40 +0100
From: cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine)
Subject: Re: UK Reg plate system

 Daryl Webb <dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au> writes:

>Mike asks about that baffling UK rego stuff.
Below is an excellent post from Bill Leacock on the subject:

>So you want to know the UK vehicle registration system.....snip..snip....
suffix B. 65 was C, 66 D, then in 67 the system...switched to an August date
so E was 67 first half to the...68/69 G: 69/70 H: 70/71 J: 71/72 K; 72/73 L;
73/74 M, 74/75 N; 75/76 P; 76/77 R; 77/78 S; 78/79 T; 79/80 V ; 80/81 W ;
81/82 X; 82/83 Y Then it changed to a prefix letter, 83/84  A; 84/85 B ; ..snip
93/94 L ; 94/95 M. you can use either number.. bought ,sold , exchanged in
several places, not..new car. Many people now wait for the new letter in
August each year. ...snip...Hope that it is clearer than mud.

 Err... t-t-thanks guys! (I think I'm getting a headache...geeezz!)

-Michael "I'm Dizzy" Carradine
 cs@crl.com
 

------------------------------

From: dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au (Daryl Webb)
Subject: Re: UK Reg plate system
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 1995 14:04:32 +0930 (CST)

>  Err... t-t-thanks guys! (I think I'm getting a headache...geeezz!)
> -Michael "I'm Dizzy" Carradine
>  cs@crl.com

No worries Mike, pleased to be of service :-)

-- 

  Daryl

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Aug 1995 23:48:53 +0100
From: cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine)
Subject: Discovery Shops (Was: Brush/Bull guard testimony)

 Clayton Kirkwood <kirkwood@strider.fm.intel.com> writes:

>This is for anyone wondering whether the front Brush/Bull guard is worth it.
 I can emphatically say yes!! Let me explain:
...snip...
 If we had been in a smaller [than the '95 Discovery] 4x4  or especially a
 sedan (especially one with a raked front) the deer would have been lifted and
 thrown through the front windshield killing my wife at a minimum.  As it was,
 the deer was thrown out of the way/driven over with no injury to any of us.

 Geeez, maybe the brush bar kept the deer from getting away uninjured, instead
 of being tangled in your grille?  Maybe you were just lucky, period(.)!

 Years ago I followed a speedy giant new pickup up Highway 88 to Kirkwood
 (the ski resort) late Friday night, me in my ragtop TR6 no less.  Suddenly
 an adult stag leaped from the right bank *onto* the hood, err..  bonnet,
 of the pickup and gingerly bounced off the windshield into the thicket past
 the left oncoming lane.  Pickup survived, deer survived, and I had visions
 of being harpooned to death by deer hooves the rest of the night.

 Moral?  Hardtops are better than softops, bullbars and roofracks and
 exterior roll cages could entangle stuff (deer, branches..), and going a
 bit less than 60 mph on curves up Georgetown way might let deer and others
 have a chance to get out of the roadway.

 Question: Are Land-Rover dealerships 'Discovery Shops*', or vica versa?

-Michael 'Just Jealous' Carradine
 cs@crl.com

 '65 IIA 88"  'Rumpole of the Bay'
 who can't make it up grades at 60mph, or at any speed anywhere actually  q:]

 *In the US, Discovery Shops are Goodwill stores selling donated clothing
  and other items. 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Aug 1995 23:14:02 -0700
From: johnliu@earthlink.net (John Y. Liu)
Subject: L.A.-Area LR's Going To 9/24 Woodley Park Meet?

For the list subscribers in the Southern California area (if any), are you
planning to go to the September 24 Woodley Park British Car Meet?  Last year
there were about 10 Land Rovers there.  If yes, look for me and 109 there!
John Y. Liu
johnliu@earthlink.net

------------------------------

  END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST 
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Photos & text Copyright 1990-2011
	Bill Caloccia, All rights reserved. 

Digest Messages Copyright 1990-2011 by the original poster or/and
	Bill Caloccia,
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