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Date: Fri, 25 Aug 1995 07:34:14 -0400
From: chrisste@clark.net (Chris Stevens)
Subject: Clutch Questions

Just finished installing a new cylinder head and putting the beast back
together after 5 weeks. After firing her up I discovered that the clutch
doesn't work...it will not disengage. I bled the servo (the fluid did not
have a lot of force coming out of the bleeder valve though. Kinda of a
trickle). Does this sound like a servo problem or has something frozen up
elsewhere during the vehicles stationary period?

Chris Stevens                   1969 88" IIA SW 2.25

BCG Corporate Communications
Towson, Maryland, USA
(410) 583-1935 (FAX)

chrisste@Clark.net

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Aug 1995 07:30:42 -0500
From: elsmain!wmaloney@els004.attmail.com (William Maloney)
Subject: Re: Stupid Previous Owner Tricks

Alan asked:

What's the wost thing any of you ever ran into on your
Rovers that was done by a previous owner?

Yes, my 88 also had bondo around a thin sheet metal patch that covered a very 
large hole in the rear cross member and boxed in the frame.  I ground it off 
to plate the area and found there was very little of the structure left.  
When Bob Fischer replaced my rear crossmember and repaired the frame box 
around the RH spring hanger with heavy steel plate, as it came off the old 
rear 
crossmember broke in two.  There was only rust holding it together.  Also, 
one of the hub bolts that had sheared off had been replaced with gasket 
cement to 
hold the head in.  Cute.

On another note, I went off-roading with Russel Dushin, Nigel, and Pierre 
Ketteridge after work on Monday.  It was a lot of fun with no mishaps except 
my Zenith was loading up at idle when the truck was pointed sharply uphill 
and NIgel was running hot at low speeds/high revs - a fan shroud help when we 
get 
around to it.  I might just spring for a new carb this time.  It runs fine on 
the level or downhill but gets pretty rich when pointing uphill at idle.  I 
rebuilt it last summer to replace the other carb which was doing the same 
thing.  It was OK when I installed it but seems to have deteriorated.  Oh 
well.

Bill

wmaloney@els004.attmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 Aug 1995 16:35:31 +0100
From: helmuth.guss@balu.kfunigraz.ac.at (Helmuth Guss)
Subject: LR-sides

I am going to England in Septmber . The only two LR places I knew so far
are Dunsfold and Gaydon. Are there some more interesting places ?

Any suggestions please .
                              Helmuth
Helmuth Guss
Hauptstr.18
8435 Wagna
03452 82437
Austria

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 Aug 1995 16:39:59 +0100
From: helmuth.guss@balu.kfunigraz.ac.at (Helmuth Guss)
Subject: LR-sides

I am going to England in Septmber . The only two LR places I knew so far
are Dunsfold and Gaydon. Are there some more interesting places ?

Any suggestions please .
                              Helmuth
Helmuth Guss
Hauptstr.18
8435 Wagna
03452 82437
Austria

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 Aug 1995 16:41:10 +0100
From: helmuth.guss@balu.kfunigraz.ac.at (Helmuth Guss)
Subject: LR-sides

I am going to England in Septmber . The only two LR places I knew so far
are Dunsfold and Gaydon. Are there some more interesting places ?

Any suggestions please .
                              Helmuth
Helmuth Guss
Hauptstr.18
8435 Wagna
03452 82437
Austria

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 Aug 1995 16:52:04 +0100
From: helmuth.guss@balu.kfunigraz.ac.at (Helmuth Guss)
Subject: Clutch Questions

>Resent-From: <guss@bkfug.kfunigraz.ac.at>
>Date: Fri, 25 Aug 1995 07:34:14 -0400
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 15 lines)]
>X-Edited-By: LRO-Lite
>To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net
>It sounds as if the clutch lining has stuck to the presser plate or there
is air in the system. When my SI is standing for a few weeks I have the same
troubles. Take a look at the rod standing out of the slave cylinder .
 If it does not move the problem is in the hydraulic . 
 Sometimes this rod becomes to short so it has not enough travel
 maybe this sugestions help you
                                Helmuth
>Resent-From: <guss@bkfug.kfunigraz.ac.at>
>Date: Fri, 25 Aug 1995 07:34:14 -0400
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
>Subject: Clutch Questions
>X-Edited-By: LRO-Lite
>To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net
Helmuth Guss
Hauptstr.18
8435 Wagna
03452 82437
Austria

------------------------------

Date: 25 Aug 95 10:29:50 EDT
From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com>
Subject: Re: winch, bushes

> Is there something wrong with my technique here, or do other people have
> problems with front chassis bushes?!

It's a pain in the popo, whatever technique you use. It's the one thing
every Series owner has to go through and can look forward to at least once
in his life (YMMV).

Stefan
<Stefan R. Jacob, 100043.2400@CompuServe.com>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 Aug 1995 10:55:10 +0100
From: cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine)
Subject: 34,000 LR parts! (Was: OVLR Newsletter)

 Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.emr.ca> writes:

>On Thu, 24 Aug 1995, Michael Carradine wrote:
>>  Ohhh, really??  It's been a GREAT week so far here in California!
>	Yeah, you haven't had a cyanide laced tailing pond break and dump
	a million litres of slurry into a river.  People are kinda 
	upset and we have to figure out how to clean this mess up.  Nice
	to know California is as happy, friendly & sunny as ever...
 Not my problem, is it?  What does your polluting the environment, with
 cyanide no less, have to do with Land-Rovers and my providing a Web space
 listing of aftermarket Series parts?

>	BTW, sarcasm doesn't go over that well.  Note?  I figured that
	you would be interested in seeing a copy of something that you
	have rubbished in the past.  You don't care?  Fine.  Throw it
	out...
 Ahh, a *direct* attack on someone providing a little information is the
 way to go.  Sorry it doesn't meet with your approval or keep up with your
 monumental and heroic publishing efforts (as you say, throw it out!).

 I'm not being sarcastic in my review of the OVLR newsletter and I never
 'rubbished' the OVLR or anyone/thing Canadian.  If I offended you with a
 comment in the past it may have been a mere attempt at humor (a supposedly
 well developed trait in our northern neighbors) and certainly not meant
 for you to foster and harbor antagonism.  I don't provide smileys to cue
 readers.  I do try and practice good manners.  I enjoyed receiving and
 reading the OVLR newsletter, and I may have inadvertantly forgotten to
 explicitly say 'Thank You!'.  The OVLR club is an excellent organization
 and the newsletter is superb, that still doesn't entitle you to run
 roughshod over everyone else.  You take yourself and the OVLR a little
 too seriously.

>>  Check out the Series Land-Rover Aftermarket Parts List at
    http://www.crl.com/~cs/rover.html  provided by Mike Hoskins
>	14 parts.  Nice...  I have 34,000 sitting on my hard drive here...

 34,000 parts?  That's great!  By all means share them with us.  Are
 these parts indexed for aftermarket replacements?  What is the list used
 for?

 Are you sure maybe some of these aren't duplicates, like maybe 30,000 of
 them?  Last time I checked, my Series Rover had less than 4,000 parts,
 and that's not just because it's been cannibalized and half of it is
 missing.

 Cheers to the OVLR,

 Michael Carradine, Architect                          Ph/Fax 510-988-0900
 Carradine Studios, PO Box 494, Walnut Creek, CA 94597 USA    <cs@crl.com>
 _________________________________________________________________________
 Mercedes-Benz Unimog 4x4 WWW page at:  http://www.crl.com/~cs/unimog.html

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 Aug 95 12:48:12 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Re: Parts from the UK

FROM:  David Brown                           Internet: debrown@srp.gov
       Computer Graphics Specialist * Mapping Services & Engr Graphics
       PAB219 (602)236-3544 -  Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486
SUBJECT: Parts from the UK
Hi David! How's the 107? I'm about to order parts from AEW Paddock, totaling
around $700 sterling. (over $1000 US) plus shipping. As you know, I'm in
Arizona, don't know it that helps at all. I'm ordering front/rear springs
too. Getting diesel 88 drivers side for both sides, and 1 ton shackles front
and rear. (should give 1" -2" lift- right? Can anyone confirm this??) Also a
transmission, 5-8" wide white spoke rims, brake drum, roof rack, etc... so
the weight is already substantial. Have you ordered from UK before? Any
tips? This is my first order, and I was thinking about calling them Today,
or Tomorrow morning (close to noon Friday for them).
I think you should fax it, get them to send a fax quote back
          and then send your order by fax. Otherwise you
          can get stuck with the wrong parts, and get
          screwed on shipping charges. At least that's what
          I've heard. Also you may even cal customs to
          find out what the tariffs might be. I called and
          they said its usually between 3-10%, depending on
          what type of parts they are. but they can't tell
          you exactly.
          Cheers, Good Luck
          David R. bobeck
          dbobeck@ushmm.org
          202-337-1232h
          202488-6588w
          72 Ser. III swb petrol

           On second thought, I'll copy
          this to the list, any tips anyone?

Thanks, Dave (crazy with Roveritis) Brown

#=======#                Never doubt that a small group of individuals
|__|__|__\___            can change the world... indeed, it's the only
| _|  |   |_ |}          thing that ever has.
"(_)""""""(_)"                                          -Margaret Mead

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date:          Fri, 25 Aug 1995 13:49:13 GMT -0600
Subject:       Re: 34,000 LR parts! (Was: OVLR Newsletter)

Huh? Wot da 'ell was that?
Didn't seem too LR related. Now I gotta find a fire extinguisher for 
my monitor.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

From: "T.F. Mills" <tomills@du.edu>
Subject: Solihull Society web page
Date: Fri, 25 Aug 1995 13:38:30 -0600 (MDT)

I have totally revamped my landrover page (same address:
http://www.du.edu/~tomills/landrover.html)

and moved and expanded a couple of things off to new pages.

My new "personal" LR page (http://www.du.edu/~tomills/lrtfm.html)
finally has a photo of my 109"...

and the Solihull Society now has its own page:
http://www.du.edu/~tomills/solisoc.html

All this stuff is best seen with Netscape.

T. F. Mills
tomills@du.edu                               University of Denver Library
http://www.du.edu/~tomills                          Denver  CO 80208  USA
(NEW HOME PAGE LOCATION:  please update your links and bookmarks)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 Aug 1995 12:49:31 +0100
From: cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine)
Subject: Re: 34,000 LR parts! (Was: OVLR Newsletter)

 Tom Rowe <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU> writes:

>Huh? Wot da 'ell was that?  Didn't seem too LR related. Now I gotta
 find a fire extinguisher for my monitor.

 No worries, Tom!  Dixon and I understand each other.

-Michael Carradine
 cs@crl.com

 '65 IIA 88" 'Rumpole of the Bay'

TODAY'S SOUTHERN WORD OF THE DAY
--------------------------------
 FAR - noun. A conflagration.
 Usage: "If my brother from Jawjuh doesn't change the all in my
         pickup truck, that things gonna catch far."
3
2
1

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 Aug 1995 16:46:31 -0500 (CDT)
From: David John Place <umplace@cc.UManitoba.CA>
Subject: Re: Re : winch, bushes

Mike said he thought the receiver type winch was for wimps.  I agree.  
The only way you can safely use one is directly in line with the winch.  
Any side loading of the receiver will rip the hitch off the vehicle.  
Most winches need to be tied to the frame as close as possible to the 
cross member.  I have mine bolted to the main frame and the bumper with 
grade 8 bolts.  Dave VE4PN

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 Aug 1995 18:03:28 -0400
From: chrisste@clark.net (Chris Stevens)
Subject: Running On Two

Well, Lanny at Rover's North was right: clutch plates were just frozen and
now the clutch is working. It was a frightening trip down the patio stuck
in gear. Now I need those on the RoverNet to put their collective heads
together and help me solve a problem...that is, the thing I have dumped so
much money (and time) into is running on two cylinders. Hey, at least it's
running.

Here's the situation: Brand new head; New valves, seats, guides, seals,
etc.installed last week. Wiring from distributor to plugs is right. Plug
wires okay; New Plugs; New Distributor cap; Compression between 90 and 100
in all four.

Here's the problem: engine runs very rough. Putt, Putt exhaust sound. When
I pull the plug wires from three and four there is no drop in rpms (they
are not firing).

Any and all ideas will be accepted. Got the folks at Rover's North Stumped.

Chris Stevens                   1969 88" IIA SW 2.25

BCG Corporate Communications
Towson, Maryland, USA
(410) 583-1722
(410) 583-1935 (FAX)
chrisste@Clark.net

------------------------------

From: Leland J Roys <roys@hpkel13.cup.hp.com>
Subject: Wimpy Winches
Date: Fri, 25 Aug 95 15:27:13 PDT

Hi,

Well I could not keep from getting into the fray about the hitch mounted
winches (especially after the hitch winches are only for wimps comment).

I use the WARN Xi9000 winch mounted on the trailer receiver cradle, I 
keep it in the back of the truck (Defender-90 1994) until needed. I use
the quick disconnect cable and store half of the cable in the battery 
compartment.

I have used a lot of winches before, and it was my bad luck with bumper
mounted winches that drove me mad enough to get the receiver type. With 
my bumper mounted winch on my previous Toyota-4 Runner, I had a lot of 
problems with the extra weight (winch + brush bar) hanging in front of 
the truck, the springs would bog down, and the brake rotors would wear 
excessively from the weight past center of CG. 

I agree that the receiver type winch may not be the best of all worlds,
but I have used it to pull the defender out of some tricky spots, it seemed
to work fine. One got-cha is that two people are better in putting the cradle
into the reciever (it weighs a lot and you have to center it to slide it
in, sorta like sex), other than that it was fine. The other reason I used 
the cradle, is that I already had the Xi9000 winch, and the cradle was $130
cable and all, and with me cost is still a factor. I am sure that you could
spend a million dollars on a bumper mounted winch that would be a better
setup, but then money is money.

Leland J. Roys
Cupertino, California
'94 Defender 90 (Red)
roys@hpkel13.cup.hp.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 Aug 95 18:04:21 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Re: Overseas order

I'm interested in ordering door bottoms for my series IIA(1 each of left and
right) as well as both front fender outer skins.  These definitely don't
qualify as heavy metal, but let me know if it helps your order and shipping
out.
Cheers!   John Cassidy

I gues i should post to the net.
          I'm going to hold off for a while, probably at
          least until fall. I've run out of money and I've
          only had the thing for a week. Keep 'em coming
          though, I'd still like to do it, and I've heard
          from a lot of people so far. It may be
          logistically more difficult then pulling yuor
          credit card out of your wallet and calling Rovers
          North, but i think it'll be worth it in the long
          run.
          Cheers.
          David Bobeck
          72 SeriesIII 88."Superb handling"

------------------------------

From: LANDROVER@delphi.com
Date: Fri, 25 Aug 1995 20:47:41 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Parts from the UK

David Brown is ordering parts....

> I'm about to order parts from AEW Paddock, totaling around $700
> sterling. (over $1000 US) plus shipping.

.... snip ....

> I'm ordering front/rear springs too. Getting diesel 88 drivers side for
> both sides, and 1 ton shackles front and rear.

.... snip ....

> Also a transmission, 5-8" wide white spoke rims, brake drum, roof rack,
> etc... so the weight is already substantial.

I would say the weight is *very* substantial....

----------------------------------
Dave Bobeck replies...

> I think you should fax it, get them to send a fax quote back
>           and then send your order by fax. Otherwise you
>           can get stuck with the wrong parts, and get
>           screwed on shipping charges.

You *can* call... they will probably ask that you fax the order, just to
save time on the phone. I've ordered from Paddock with no problems. I did
call first and spoke to them briefly, then faxed them a list for a quote.
They faxed back prices in UK pounds. I then faxed an order and payed by
Visa. 

I ordered hydraulic stuff and other small items and had the order sent by
air. Paddock will ship air or surface but they said air shipments are
insured. Plus, air shipments take about a week... surface is more like a
month or more.

Since you have a very heavy (weight-wise) order you don't want to go air
mail! (You could probably buy another Rover for the air mail costs.) I would
definately send a fax requesting current prices and specifics about
shipment. Get it all nailed down before actually ordering anything.

Cheers
  Michael Loiodice       E-MAIL   landrover@delphi.com              
  166 W.Fulton St.       VOICE    (518) 773-2697                    
  Gloversville                                                      
  NY, 12078              1965 Ser IIa 88 Petrol ("Sidney")      
              7          1972 Ser III 88 Petrol ("Fern")
           #:-}>         1971 Ser IIa 88 Petrol (Parts is Parts)

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 26 Aug 95 03:56:44 +0200
From: sm095re@unidui.uni-duisburg.de (Kurt Reinhardt)
Subject: Engine conversion

Hi, I=B4m looking for an engine conversion of my 90 Range, which is powered=
 by a
2.5 l 6-cyl BMW Turbodiesel and ZF-4HP22 Gearbox. I don=B4t like this engine
at all, because I=B4d prefer the 4-cyl VM or much more the TDI. Now I want=
 to
exchange my engine through one of these. I=B4ve heard about a complete
conversion Kit distributed by ROVER with the 200 tdi and all the stuff you
need, like radiator, intercooler, exhaust and so on. Does anyone know, if
this kit is available and much more important would fit to a genuine rover
ZF-autobox ? Has anyone experience with the 200 tdi engine with an Automatic
? Has it enough torque, or is the 300 tdi the first and only choice to be
adapted to an auto ? As far as I know the kit comes only withh the 200
engine, and because this engine wasn=B4t normally in a car with auto, I=
 think
there=B4s no radiator with integrated gear-box oil-cooler. Another problem
would be the kickdown-cable, needed to be connected to the injectorpump. Do
you have any tips to solve such problems ?
Thank=B4s a lot
Kurt

Kurt C. Reinhardt
Essen, Germany
0049 201 297876
Kurt.Reinhardt@uni-dui.uni-duisburg.de

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 Aug 1995 22:49:17 -0500 (EST)
From: Duncan Brown <DB@CHO004.CHO.GE.COM>
Subject: 1966 109SW for sale in Virginia (USA)

All,
    I'm forced to sell my 1966 109SW, which I lovingly refer to as being
    "in kit form"...but first I'm going to subject you to a longwinded
    post...so read on!

    I had been driving my 1960 88 for about three years when I decided
    that I should get a 109SW.  My wife and two kids and I couldn't
    possibly all ride together in the 88, since it only has seat belts
    in the front seats, and besides the back of an 88 isn't where my
    wife would want to ride, with both kids buckled securely in the
    front!  SO I take the 2 kids out in it all the time, and I take the
    older one to BRLRC meets, but my wife's never been offroad with me!

    So I started looking around for a 109 I could get cheap.  I knew I
    might dump a lot of money and labor into it by the time I finished
    with it, but I simply couldn't afford to put a lot of money into the
    initial purchase.  But this was around the time the 500 D110's were
    coming to NA, and that crazy West Coast place was advertising
    restored Series II's for $40,000, and I just couldn't find a good
    cheap 109 SW.  To this day they seem to command a higher price than
    other models.

    A couple of deals looked promising...only to have the seller sell
    them to someone else between the time I scheduled a drive to them
    and the date I was supposed to drive.  There was an absolutely
    disasterous trip to Wisconsin to purchase and drive home a 109SW
    that I had absolutely *grilled* the owner on about its condition.  A
    friend and I teamed up to drive there in 24 hours straight, in
    driving snow in Wisconsin...only to discover that the frame was
    broken to the point that the rear doors did not close properly, the
    left rear spring was broken from the frame at *both* points, etc. 
    Did this moron think I'd still take it?!?!?  I had to be able to
    *drive* it home, and that never would have made it!  I also burned
    away my #4 exhaust valve (original non-hardened) halfway UP there,
    so I drove the rest of the way and all the way back on just 3
    cylinders.  (Gotta love these beasts...my friend refused to believe
    that's what the problem was, because no vehicle could continue to
    drive 55 on the straightaways with one cylinder gone!  It was the
    10MPH up hills that was the clue...)

    So after much frustration, I finally came up with one, courtesy of
    my pals in the BRLRC- a group of them bought out a barn full of
    Rovers in PA.  The vehicle I got looked to have been the result of
    someone stripping two 109Sw's down to the frame, and starting to
    build one back up with the best pieces from each.  It has some frame
    repair in the normal places.  Nothing too severe...though it was my
    estimation that I'd get maybe 5 or 10 years out of the frame before
    deciding it needed full replacement.  There are all kinds of really
    annoying pieces missing entirely, such as brake drums and
    driveshafts...things you normally expect to just *be* with a vehicle
    you buy!

    I have accumulated many of the parts it needs, but certainly not
    all.  Much of what I need is in the hands of the BRLRC consortium
    that bought the pile of stuff, I just hadn't gotten around to buying
    it from them.  Chris Stark had bartered a few pieces my way, and
    probably has more.  The stuff's out there for someone with the TIME
    and money to keep at it.  The engine is stripped of most major
    accessories, but I have a number of them for it.  It turns, but
    that's all I can tell you about it.  Definitely needs to be opened
    and have a look-see inside before just firing it up.  the
    transmission/transfer case is also seemingly functional, but as it's
    sitting in the far back of the truck right now, it's hard to know
    for sure.  It came with 15" wheels, but I have put the 16" wheels
    and tires on it that I recently removed from my 88.  There's enough
    tread there to get you through your first inspection, and they hold
    air enough to keep it off the ground!

    The major point is that it's a solid 109SW frame/body/title and
    probably the only way left to get into a 109SW Rover on the cheap,
    other than the occasional gem discovered in the back yard of someone
    who has no idea what it is.

    This would *not* be a good "first Rover", since it's like a jigsaw
    puzzle with no box lid to look at.  You really need to know your
    Rover mechanicals to get it back together, and to know what's
    missing.  Anyone thinking about buying it would be well-advised to
    come look it over carefully first.  I trailered it home, and would
    recommend the same to anyone who buys it.  The rear axle is not full
    of oil, and I wouldn't want to spin it at road speed for any
    distance.  I'm near Charlottesville, VA, for anyone thinking of
    coming to see it. That's an hour from Richmond, or 2 hours from
    Washington DC.

    I am forced to sell because of a recent "career change" by my wife. 
    It's clear that unless I win the lottery, I am never again in my
    life going to have enough spare money to put into this vehicle. 
    (I'll be lucky to continue to *eat* long-term, but that's another
    story...)  I have about $1250 into the truck, and would like to get
    at least that much out of it.  If nobody wants to pay that, I will
    try to hold out for that much...but eventually (within a few months)
    I'll get so desperate for money that I'll be willing to come down.

    Lest you fear I've stopped being Rover-crazy, note that I'm about to
    drop a rebuilt engine into my 88 in a couple of weeks, up at Rovers
    North.  I had already gotten the credit union loan, and arranged
    everything, and by God I'm going through with it, even if fiscal
    prudence would suggest a different course of action.  I figure I'd
    much rather have my Rover be reliable while I'm broke and try to
    figure out how to make the loan payments...than to have my Rover
    BREAK while I'm broke, and try to figure out how to get money for
    repairs!

    Duncan, soon-to-be-ex-109-owner

------------------------------

From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date: 25 Aug 95 23:05:45 EDT
Subject: Re: Parts from the UK

On The Great Carburettor (English spelling) Hassle:

I just got a Weber 34ICH from Paddock. It took a week to
get here, and came withall of the interesting little bits that
end up costing a fortune: a new choke cable with switch,
gaskets, mounting washers, instructions and all the helpful
stuff (like a Weber decal for the window 8*)..).

Total cost? 50 pounds for the carb, 25 pounds shipping, and 
another 8 pounds for a full set of brake rubber hoses to replace
the shot ones on Churchill.

83.65 total, 133 or thereabouts American, for $300 worth of parts
even at Atlantic British pices and no shipping! Seems like a deal
to me. I mention this because you expressed a certain amount of
disgust with your present carburettor situation... -Alan

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 Aug 1995 23:09:01 -0500 (CDT)
From: David John Place <umplace@cc.UManitoba.CA>
Subject: Re: Running On Two

I would take the valve covers off and check to see that first all valves 
are moving correctly.  Next reset the valve clearance.  Next check the 
points and condenser.  I installed a brand new one from the box that was 
a dud and it was breaking down under load.  Check the coil with a spare.  
It could be breaking down and not delivering the correct spark.  Check 
the fuel pressure on the pump with a gauge.  You might want to put a tarp 
over the engine bay and watch for a spark to a grounded area from the 
wires. Bad plugs will not fire when they are in the high pressure 
atmosphere of the cyl.  They will however fire when in the open so try 
putting in different plugs just to eliminate the possibility.  Plugs can 
come out of the box with the gap off just from being dropped etc and this 
can cause the problem you have.  If you are using radio resistor wire 
make sure you didn't pull the wire and break the carbon and string 
interior on one and now you have a high resistance gap in it.  Finally if 
all the ignition has been checked and by this I mean getting a scope 
check, then you have to suspect valve timing like a jumped chain, slack 
chain, wrong timing setting or worn valve lifters or sliders.  Have fun! 
These are the kind's of things that make mechanics rich and white 
haired.  Dave VE4PN

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 Aug 1995 23:56:24 -0500 (CDT)
From: David John Place <umplace@cc.UManitoba.CA>
Subject: Poor running rebuilt engine.

I erased the message from the fellow with the new head job and still 
doesn't run right so I am posting this to all recipients.  Remember that 
at least two owners and I put in new valves and guides and had problems 
within the first 100 miles.  My rear valve jumped the push rod out from 
under the rocker and I believe the others had similar problems.  My 
problem I traced to the bad out of round lifter that kept putting the 
valve clearance off.  Finally it went so far out the push rod came out 
from under the rocker arm.  Someone else seemed to think the fellow who 
installed the new guides didn't ream them out correctly or at any rate 
the up and down motion was hampered to the point of putting the vavle 
timing out.  I would really try my number one suggestion of watching the 
valve action on that cyl. and making sure it is going correctly.  It the 
valve stayed open on compression stroke you could get this or if it 
stayed closed on intake stroke then you would get no gas pulled in to 
burn.  What is the vacuum like on this vehicle.  It should be around 20" 
of Hg. at idle.  If it isn't and the vacuum needle is bouncing you have 
found the problem.  Bad valve seating or you blew the head gasket when 
you did the head torque.  See if the compression is funny between the two 
cyl. that don't seem to make any difference when you pull the wire.  Have 
fun. Although they almost never go, did you look at the cam lobes when 
you did the head job?  Dave VE4PN

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 Aug 1995 21:55:42 +0100
From: cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine)
Subject: Jobs at Rover Group Ltd.

 Rumpole says,

 Any of you guys and gals with all of your bright engineering ideas
 for improving Land-Rovers (and MG's, etc.) and making then GO!,
 here's your chance--

 The Rover Group Ltd. is offering "Engineering opportunities at
 Birmingham, Solihull, Coventry, Warwick and Oxford."

 Salaries range from =A316,000 to =A325,000

 Check it out at their Web site  http://www.rover.co.uk/

-Michael Carradine                                     ?
 cs@crl.com                                             _\    __
 '65 IIA 88"  'Rumpole of the Bay'                     [__[__[__]
 as seen at http://www.crl.com/~cs/rover.html    ______(o)___(o)____
 Michael Carradine, Architect                          Ph/Fax 510-988-0900
 Carradine Studios, PO Box 494, Walnut Creek, CA 94597 USA    <cs@crl.com>
 _________________________________________________________________________
 Mercedes-Benz Unimog 4x4 WWW page at:  http://www.crl.com/~cs/unimog.html

------------------------------

  END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST 
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