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The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

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msgSender linesSubject
1 Ketil Kirkerud [ketil@if14Re: back again; misc.replies
2 Richard Jones [rich@apri26Re: Misc.
3 "Tom Rowe" [TROWE@AE.AGE43 Re: Tyre mount
4 sreddock@VNET.IBM.COM 37Mysteries...
5 Tony@hawtec.demon.co.uk 25RE: Snorkle for Defenders ?
6 Tony@hawtec.demon.co.uk 23RE: Series III Troubles.......
7 Tony@hawtec.demon.co.uk 33RE: Thoroughly Ceased Track Rod!
8 Tony@hawtec.demon.co.uk 33Starting Problems: Fuel Vapourisation?
9 Mr Ian Stuart [Ian.Stuar22 More Web pages
10 Chris Haslam [haslam@alc16Bicycle Rack for '88 Range Rover
11 "T.F. Mills" [tomills@du21Re: More Web pages
12 DEBROWN@SRP.GOV 39CD for Disco.
13 Peter Kutschera [peter@z21Re: More Web pages
14 Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus [A28Damn, I hate electrical problems...
15 Richard Jones [rich@apri33More Web pages
16 Mark Talbot [71035.3215@40SIII For Sale
17 Duncan Brown [DB@CHO004.43Light switch
18 Dixon Kenner [dkenner@em18Re: Damn, I hate electrical problems...
19 RICKCRIDER@aol.com 65SIII Troubles..Ricks follow up........
20 "John P. Casteel" [7047233'90, RR stalling
21 jhoward@atlas.usno.navy.15Air conditioning
22 "TeriAnn Wakeman" [twak19Re: Damn, I hate electrical problems...
23 David John Place [umplac9Re: Tyre mount
24 Joe Manickam [JoeM@hesst16[not specified]
25 David John Place [umplac24Land Rover Shocks
26 David John Place [umplac10Land Rover Truck Cap
27 kirkwood@strider.fm.inte37some recent 95 disco problems
28 kirkwood@strider.fm.inte37A couple of questions?????
29 growl@hsmpk14a-101.Eng.S16Re: Damn, I hate electrical problems...
30 RICKCRIDER@aol.com 21"Positive Ground"
31 Mark Talbot [71035.3215@32SIII for sale
32 Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus [A18Re: "Positive Ground"
33 Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus [A18Re: Sound dampening matting
34 compuserve [72647.2641@c33Need Advice
35 compuserve [72647.2641@c11one more thing
36 rover@pinn.net (Alexande23Rover on camers
37 Robert Dennis [73363.42719Reply to 90 RR stalling
38 LANDROVER@delphi.com 87Re: Need Advice
39 LANDROVER@delphi.com 65Re: "Positive Ground"
40 "Joseph V. Modarelli" [j16Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest


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From: Ketil Kirkerud <ketil@ifi.uio.no>
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 1995 12:08:51 +0200
Subject: Re: back again; misc.replies

> SLROC) are in Norway (and have been for over a week) -- they may have 
> dropped in ;-)

Yes, there was. If we're talking about a 88ish coilsprung hybrid with a 
somewhat strange headlamp arrangement. As far as I can remember it did'nt
do too badly in the trials competition.

---Ketil

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From: Richard Jones <rich@apricot.mee.com>
Subject: Re: Misc.
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 1995 12:25:36 +0100 (BST)

jpappa01@interserv.com writes:
> - BTW, the long-lived Range Rover Classic is officially OUT OF PRODUCTION. 

The latest official comment from Land Rover is that the Classic will continue in
production for the time being (next review due at the end of the year), but there
are still contracts to fill with Virgin Atlantic and various Police Forces.
Production currently stands at 80 units per week with most if not all pre sold.

However, it isn't surprising that it should be phased out from overseas markets 
as demand begins to declines, or regulation changes require changes to the model.

As far as I know there will be no changes to the 1995 model for 1996, with the 
exception of a reduced model range.

__ 
  _ __              Apricot Computer Limited
 ' )  )      /      3500 Parkside                 Tel:   (+44) 121 717 7171
  /--' o _. /_      Birmingham Business Park      Fax:   (+44) 121 717 0123
 /  <_<_(__/ <_     BIRMINGHAM  B37 7YS
 Richard Jones      United Kingdom                Email: richardj@apricot.co.uk 

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From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date:          Tue, 22 Aug 1995 07:07:49 GMT -0600
Subject:       Re: Tyre mount

> Rob asks:
 1) Can anybody try and describe how to use the hood (bonnet(sp?)) mounted 
 spare tire holder.
 It has 2  bolts and two "cams" as they are called in RN's catalog.
snip
And Daryl wrote:

 Ok, place the cams on the bolts such that the longest "leg" is towards the
mounting plate.  Turn the cams so that the long axis is across the vehicle
and the long side is facing outwards.  (the cam is slightly curved, sort of
like a crescent moon, you want the the two cams to be like this  (    )  not
)   (  on the mount
Get your wheel and put it over the centre of the mount with the front
(outside) facing down towards the bonnet, the cams are then turned to clamp
the back of the rim down.  The long leg of the cam should be touching the top
of the mount when the bolts are tightened, if it isnt then you need longer
legged cams (there are at least two different sizes )
 
And I add:
On some of the cams (the ones with the longer legs) you can remove 
the bolt and flip them over if needed (one leg is longer than the 
other), based on the size tire you have. You will have to remove a 
cotter pin from the bolt from inside the bonnet, if it's still there.  
If you need a cam with longer legs, a cheaper alternative is to use a 
piece of 1x2 between the legs and the plate. That's been my remedy 
for years on my LR that has the shorter legged cams. It also helps to 
keep the cam from spinning as you tighten it.
Oh yeah, put some NeverSeeze on the bolt threads. I've often found 
those galvanized bolts a bear to turn.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

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From: sreddock@VNET.IBM.COM
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 95 12:49:23 BST
Subject: Mysteries...

Dave, I can't help you on you timing pointer as my Lightweight has a Ford V6
fitted and I can't remember what the old engine had.  However I think it could
be the problem for your other symptoms.

Engines run on because the head is too hot.  One reason for the head being too
hot is that the timing is too far advanced, which also causes burbling on
over-run or engine braking.  For some real fun advance it a bit more and it
might even give a proper back fire when you lift off at high revs!

The leaking silencer also doesn't help as it will reduce the back pressure and
cause the mixture to lean out, which also causes hot heads.  Also if the
beast used to be at low altitude and has now moved to high altitude (please
forgive my total ignorance of geography on your side of the Atlantic!) the
mixture will also be leaned out and cause the problems.

General lack of power however as you describe points towards lean mixture.

I would take the car to a garage for a proper tune up. I never bother to set
timing and mixture myself, as I don't have all the kit, but I have always
saved money by getting more economy after a tune up.

The headlamp problem is normal.  Check all the earthing and general wire
condition.  Are you getting even close to 12V at the back of the bulb?
After you fix this they still won't work of course, you will just go from
dim candle power to dull candle power.  Fit halogens if you don't have
infra-red vision.

Hope all this helps.

Steve Reddock. Hampshire, UK.
Lightweight V6 called Bastard as it always breaks down.

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Date: Sat, 19 Aug 95 18:25:44 PDT
From: Tony@hawtec.demon.co.uk
Subject: RE: Snorkle for Defenders ? 

A company called Mantech which advertises in Land Rover 
International Magazine manufactures raised air intakes for series II 
II & III, 90's and 110's.

Let me know if you would like address and telephone numbers.
-------------------------------------
Tony Chapman
HAWTEC                   Tel: +44 (0)1905 723200
Haswell House            Fax: +44 (0)1905 613338
Saint Nicholas Street    Mobile: 0973 316835
Worcester
WR1 1UW

E-mail: Tony@hawtec.demon.co.uk

Date: 08/19/95
Time: 18:25:44

This message was sent by Chameleon 
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Date: Sat, 19 Aug 95 18:31:20 PDT
From: Tony@hawtec.demon.co.uk
Subject: RE: Series III Troubles....... 

The filter is probably in the bottom of the tank.  It is not 
available as a separate part but comes with the tube, part number 
544658.
-------------------------------------
Tony Chapman
HAWTEC                   Tel: +44 (0)1905 723200
Haswell House            Fax: +44 (0)1905 613338
Saint Nicholas Street    Mobile: 0973 316835
Worcester
WR1 1UW

E-mail: Tony@hawtec.demon.co.uk

Date: 08/19/95
Time: 18:31:20

This message was sent by Chameleon 
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Date: Sat, 19 Aug 95 18:19:40 PDT
From: Tony@hawtec.demon.co.uk
Subject: RE: Thoroughly Ceased Track Rod! 

Suggestions for freeing rusted track rod ends:

1) Use heat from butane or propane blow lamp, applying flame 
principally to tube rather than track rod end.

2) grip the track rod with a pipe wrench (Stilson) or water pump 
pliers and rotate the track rod.

Once freed, work the track rod backwards and forwards until it moves 
freely.  Don't worry too much about wrecking the track rod ends; if 
they're 16 years old they probably need repalcing anyway.....

Hope this helps. 
-------------------------------------
Tony Chapman
HAWTEC                   Tel: +44 (0)1905 723200
Haswell House            Fax: +44 (0)1905 613338
Saint Nicholas Street    Mobile: 0973 316835
Worcester
WR1 1UW

E-mail: Tony@hawtec.demon.co.uk

Date: 08/19/95
Time: 18:19:40

This message was sent by Chameleon 
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Date: Sat, 19 Aug 95 21:12:04 PDT
From: Tony@hawtec.demon.co.uk
Subject: Starting Problems: Fuel Vapourisation?

Over the past few weeks I have been having problems with starting my 
2286 petrol SIIA when it has been standing for more than 15 minutes. 
 I have checked points, timing, carburettor, etc. and everything 
seems fine.

The best suggestion at the moment is that while it is standing the 
fuel in the carburettor is vapourising, causing delayed starting.  
We have had unusually high temperatures (high 80's F)in the UK over 
the last few weeks.  I was wondering if anybody in some of the 
hotter parts of the world had similar problems, or is this not a 
problem on the L/R?

Comments, suggestions please.
-------------------------------------
Tony Chapman
HAWTEC                   Tel: +44 (0)1905 723200
Haswell House            Fax: +44 (0)1905 613338
Saint Nicholas Street    Mobile: 0973 316835
Worcester
WR1 1UW

E-mail: Tony@hawtec.demon.co.uk

Date: 08/19/95
Time: 21:12:04

This message was sent by Chameleon 
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From: Mr Ian Stuart <Ian.Stuart@ed.ac.uk>
Date:          Tue, 22 Aug 1995 15:05:53 +0000
Subject:       More Web pages

I've now got some Land Rover stuff on the Web:

Celebrities are listed at:
http://www.tardis.ed.ac.uk/~kiz/celebs.html

and the Scottish Land Rover Owners Club is at:
http://www.tardis.ed.ac.uk/~kiz/SLROC/

Please can people tell me the addresses of their various pages (ie LLoyd & 
Roy, plus the Glamorgan club and any other UK clubs)

Does anyone know if the ARC is on-line yet? (offers anyone?)

     ----** Ian Stuart (Computing Officer)        +44 31 650 6205
Royal (Dick) School of Veterinary Studies, Edinburgh University. 
 <http://www.vet.ed.ac.uk/> or <http://www.tardis.ed.ac.uk/~kiz/>

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Date: Tue, 22 Aug 1995 10:27:41 -0400 (EDT)
From: Chris Haslam <haslam@alcor.concordia.ca>
Subject: Bicycle Rack for '88 Range Rover

I am interested in a rack for the back of the vehicle, but I seem to have 
2 choices:

   o a very expensive Range Rover type, with which bicycles don't scratch 
     the body, or
   o Canadian Tire's $100 model, which mounts on a ball hitch (which I 
     would also have to buy), and scratches the RR body

Does anyone have a better solution?

...chris haslam

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From: "T.F. Mills" <tomills@du.edu>
Subject: Re: More Web pages
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 1995 09:19:39 -0600 (MDT)

Ian,

Glad to have your stuff on the web!

Mine is at http://www.du.edu/~tomills/landrover.html

It includes links to all the other major sites, and Lloyd's has links to 
virtually every known site.

Todd

T. F. Mills
tomills@du.edu                               University of Denver Library
http://www.du.edu/~tomills                          Denver  CO 80208  USA
(NEW HOME PAGE LOCATION:  please update your links and bookmarks)

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Date: Tue, 22 Aug 95 08:20:35 MST
From: DEBROWN@SRP.GOV
Subject: CD for Disco.

FROM:  David Brown                           Internet: debrown@srp.gov
       Computer Graphics Specialist * Mapping Services & Engr Graphics
       PAB219 (602)236-3544 -  Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486
SUBJECT: CD for Disco.
Christian,

It's been a while now, since I tried to find a CD that would work with
my '94 Disco, but I finally found one that fit the plug, (Pioneer CDX-61
I think) but it would absolutely NOT work with the radio. I contacted
Crutchfields stereo (1-800-955-3000) to see if they made an adapter so I
could use "any" CD changer with it instead of the Land-Rover unit. (I
too felt it was too expensive.) At the time (about 9 months ago) they
did not. The LR CD can be purchased from ? (Atlantic British, or British
Pacific, or Rovers North, ???) for around $550.

I thought that was still too high, and bought an FM modulated unit (JVC
12 disk) and it works. I would not recommend this though, because I lost
a good deal of power (volume) using the FM modulated unit, and, for me,
the Disco radio is already not loud enough. (What can I say, I'm a child
of the '60's and '70's.) Also, there is a wee bit of static when
listening to the CD's. I thought that it'd be "crystal clear", it's not.

My advice, (as if you asked for it or care) is to spend the extra
$100-$200 and get the unit made for it from one of the above mentioned
places. (After checking again with Crutchfields, that is.) My unit also
has a silly remote control thing to operate it, instead of using the
radio controls.

Good luck!  Dave (Speak up, I can't hear you shouting) Brown

#=======#                Never doubt that a small group of individuals
|__|__|__\___            can change the world... indeed, it's the only
| _|  |   |_ |}          thing that ever has.
"(_)""""""(_)"                                          -Margaret Mead

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Date: Tue, 22 Aug 1995 17:42:03 +0200
From: Peter Kutschera <peter@zditr1.arcs.ac.at>
Subject: Re: More Web pages

Web pages:
Try 
http://zditr1.arcs.ac.at/~peter/LR

If you need some arguments: there is also a (expandable) collection of 
reasons to own a Landrover :-)
Please extend this list!

Peter
http://zditr1.arcs.ac.at/~peter

To feed majordomo:
3210
210
10
0

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From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date: 22 Aug 95 13:40:26 EDT
Subject: Damn, I hate electrical problems...

To the Lucas gods on the list :

I am trying to get the headlight/marker light wiring straight on old Churchill, 
and
things are, at the least, not going well...

The way the switch is now (the big black barrel-type with the central key),
Off == off
1st position: Marker lights, no headlights
2nd position: Headlights, no marker lights

It isn't SUPPOSED to do this, is it?

Is this a wiring bodge, or is the blasted switch bad?
If the switch is bad, I sincerely think I'm going to modify to late S2a
and go with bat-handle switches. That huge switch gives me the willies...<grin>.

Incidentally, anybody heard from Charlie Wright lately? I wonder how
his move back to reality, er...the US is going...<grin>  (It's a 
JOKE.....humor....)

     Alan

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From: Richard Jones <rich@apricot.mee.com>
Subject: More Web pages
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 1995 17:39:16 +0100 (BST)

Ian Stuart writes:
> 	Please can people tell me the addresses of their various pages (ie LLoyd & 
> 	Roy, plus the Glamorgan club and any other UK clubs)

I am trying to collect as many Rover related URLs as I can find and put them in
one place:

	http://www.apricot.co.uk/rel3/directory/rrr/rover.html

Hopefully all the URLs you are looking for are already there.  If there are any 
that should be there but arn't please let me know and I will add them.

> 	Does anyone know if the ARC is on-line yet? (offers anyone?)

Not as far as I know.  I have put a page together with some basic ARC information
at:

	http://www.apricot.co.uk/rel3/directory/rrr/arc.html

If anyone (from the ARC or elsewhere) has any further ARC information they would
like me to add to it, let me know and I will see what I can do.
__ 
  _ __              Apricot Computer Limited
 ' )  )      /      3500 Parkside                 Tel:   (+44) 121 717 7171
  /--' o _. /_      Birmingham Business Park      Fax:   (+44) 121 717 0123
 /  <_<_(__/ <_     BIRMINGHAM  B37 7YS
 Richard Jones      United Kingdom                Email: richardj@apricot.co.uk 

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Date: 22 Aug 95 14:36:06 EDT
From: Mark Talbot <71035.3215@compuserve.com>
Subject: SIII For Sale

---------- Forwarded Message ----------

From:	Mark Talbot, 71035,3215
TO:	INTERNET:owner-lro-digest@uk.stratus.com,
INTERNET:owner-lro-digest@uk.stratus.com
DATE:	8/22/95 2:35 PM

RE:	Copy of: SIII For Sale

All, 

I have decided to sell "Beryl" my SIII. 

1972 SIII, SWB Station Wagon, Overdrive, FWH, New parts include: Complete brake,
clutch overhauls. New brake lines, fuel lines and hoses all round. Stacks of new
parts. Frame in good solid condition.  New door tops, and window channels.
Trakker high back seats, cubby box, tropical roof with new headlining, new
interior door panels and armrests. Heated rear window. Carpeted and it has a
radio cassette that you can hear !  This vehicle sits on 16 " Discovery steel
wheels with 265/75 mud radial tyres. New exhaust and loads on new parts. 90/110
door mirrors.

New lights throughout, including 90/110 reversing lamps and brake light. 
 
Needs a paint job as it's currently in shades of blue, red and green. Bodywork
is in good straight condition with no dents or rot. 

Asking $6000. 

Mark 603-357-3401 or e-mail me back 

Selling to fund 109 rebuild and also buy a Defender 90.

  

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Date: Tue, 22 Aug 1995 15:29:29 -0500 (EST)
From: Duncan Brown <DB@CHO004.CHO.GE.COM>
Subject: Light switch

Alan,

> The way the switch is now (the big black barrel-type with the central key),
> Off == off
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> 2nd position: Headlights, no marker lights
> It isn't SUPPOSED to do this, is it?

    Actually, according to my circa-1962 factory manual, that *is* the
    way it's supposed to work, for North American applications.

    You think they read a DOT excerpt wrong or something???  My 1962
    TR-4 had it right...

    When I was bringing my 1960 SII back from the dead, I had all sorts
    of interesting electrical problems.  A large number of them were
    traceable back to the main power feed being connected to the main
    electrical system "on" connection ("A" I believe?) and vice versa on
    this switch.  Made for some interesting behavior, heh heh...

    So I was really into the nuts and bolts of how this thing was wired,
    and discovered that the above light behavior was correct.  I was
    just trying to figure out how to get the state inspection station to
    believe that (notarized letter from Lucas??) when I realized that my
    switch contained an *extra* connector, not spelled out on the
    diagram.  Sure enough, by hooking the marker lamps to that
    connector, they come on by themselves at the "S" position, and
    *stay* on in the "H" position.  It was something like "S1" or "S2"
    or something.  If necessary, I can open up my dash and find it
    again.

    If you don't have that connector, could you get by with just wiring
    them in with the headlights?  So nothing would come on in "S", and
    everything would come on in "H".  Might get you a funny look from
    the inspector, but should pass, right?  Is there a law that says you
    have to be able to turn on just the running lights?

    Duncan

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Date: Tue, 22 Aug 1995 15:39:40 -0400 (EDT)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.emr.ca>
Subject: Re: Damn, I hate electrical problems...

On 22 Aug 1995, Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus wrote:

> The way the switch is now (the big black barrel-type with the central key),
> Off == off
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> 2nd position: Headlights, no marker lights
> It isn't SUPPOSED to do this, is it?

	Yes it is... :-)  Canadian (and probably American) lighting 
	regulations in the early 1960's required the front marker lights 
	to be extinguished when the headlamps were turned on.

	Rgds,

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From: RICKCRIDER@aol.com
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 1995 16:23:25 -0400
Subject: SIII Troubles..Ricks follow up........

Thanksk to all who responded.........
BOY!!......what a difference removing the gas tank and cleaning it
makes........I can actually travel more than 3 to 4 miles without having to
clean out the glass bowl fuel filter now.    Removing the tank was a
breeze......discarded all the old gas properly.  Thoroughly washed out the
tank with a wizards mixture of various rust and scale removing solutions
mixed with water.    Let it sit for most of day.   Then mixed up another
batch and put in a 3' piece of logging chain and shook the daylights out of
it.   
Absolutely amazing all the crud,  scale,  and misc.  goo that came out.
  Among all the goo I also found the following:

*1973  penny.....copper still well preserved.
*Remnants of the cute little chain that holds the inner filler neck to the
outer filler neck.
*Slimey remnants of silicone type sealant that was apparently used previously
to seal   the fuel sending unit gasket.
*Remnants of the brass mesh screen sock that used to be on the bottom of feed
tube.

and noted the following:

*The feed tube (pick up tube) only clears the bottom of the tank about a
quarter of an inch....so....any garbage on the bottom of tank is prime
candidate for being sucked right up the tube.

*The pick up tube itself was *quite* grungy inside.....cleaned it with a
rifle barrel cleaning brush and rod.

Couldn't find the brass mesh screen material to fabricate a new tube sock
from......instead used a similar item made for Volvo.......it's a fibreglass
type mesh sock about six inches long with a metal collar at the top.
   Simple cut off the metal collar,  singe the cut edges with a match to
prevent unravelling,  slip it over the tube and secure it with several wraps
of galvanized (stainless would be better) bailing wire.    Works great.   ( a
nylon wire tie pulled tightly may work as well....)

Blew out ALL lines with compressed air.......amazing what it spits out.
   Painted tank and reinstalled with all new stainless bolts, washers and
nuts.  (Also cleaned and painted the frame area that is normally inaccessable
when the tank is in place.)  Fabricated necessary gaskets out of a sheet of
gasket material.......new ones are available,,,,just hated to wait on UPS to
bring such trivial items.....Put it all back together and ....*VOILA*.....an
amazing difference.......no more stumbling and it actually ACCELERATES now.

Jesse is a 22 year old truck.......guess it was about time to clean out its
bowels.

I got two different responses about which way to bend the sender float rod to
warn me ahead of time that he's low on gas.........don't know why that simple
rule of physics is so hard to figure out.

Thanks all.......
Cordially:
Rick Crider  KD4FXA
Monroe  NC
' 66  SIIA  109" five door....(Hugo).....and for sale also.
' 73  SIII    88"     (Jesse)   My pet.....money couldn't buy him.
' 88  Range Rover.......no name......just my daily pack mule.

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Date: 22 Aug 95 16:19:22 EDT
From: "John P. Casteel" <70472.557@compuserve.com>
Subject: '90, RR stalling

Hello Gang,  I have a '90 RR that began stalling earlier this summer.  I'm open
to possible solutions from any of you.  I just passed 60k miles and I have
started the 60k service (I'm doing the work myself.)  I have replaced the fuel
and air filter so the stalling isn't due to those items.  I suspect that it is
the PCV system but before shelling out the $ for parts I decided to ask for your
advice.

The stalling occurs because of a low idle speed.  Before the start of this HOT
summer the RPMs remained constant at ~ 800.  Now, more often than not, the RPMs
hover around 500 and sometimes they drop all the way to zero.  Is the PCV a
likely culprit?  Other than this the Rangie drives great.

One more question while I have your attention.  Two weeks ago an A/C hose
erupted.  The OEM replacement is $187 (RN).  While I always try to use OE
sometimes it's just not worth it.  One of the other hoses says GOODYEAR so I'd
like to see if any 'ol A/C shop can make a replacement.  Any experience with the
A/C hoses?  (This is the hose running from the compressor to the condensor.
>From under the bonnet to inside the dash.)

BTW, thanks to all who frequent this digest.  I'm learning tons and I find your
experiences intriguing.

Many thanks to all who can help.  

John Casteel, Atlanta GA

'90 RR
wishing I had a garage to hide a series LR from my wife.  

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Date: Tue, 22 Aug 95 16:36 EDT
From: jhoward@atlas.usno.navy.mil (James D. Howard)
Subject: Air conditioning

I can't remember who it was who inquired about airconditioning his
Series Land Rover about a month ago, but I though I would pass this
on.  In the Eastwood catalog, there is a book called "How to Air
Condition Your Car", stock # 1466, $19.95.  144pp, by Tim Remus.
Their phone number is 800-345-1178.

Standard disclaimers apply.

James Howard			jhoward@argus.lowell.edu
1972 SIII 88 "Ephraim"		Flagstaff, Arizona, USA

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Date: Tue, 22 Aug 95 13:53:58 -0700
From: "TeriAnn Wakeman"  <twakeman@apple.com>
Subject: Re: Damn, I hate electrical problems...

In message <199508221829.NAA05648@butler.uk.stratus.com> Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus 
writes:
> To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net
> To the Lucas gods on the list :
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 18 lines)]
> 1st position: Marker lights, no headlights
> 2nd position: Headlights, no marker lights
> It isn't SUPPOSED to do this, is it?

Memory says that is the way the factory wired the Land Rover's lights.  However,
if you move the wire to the parking lights over to the terminal with the tail 
lights you will get what you want.  I did it to my LR in the late seventies.

TeriAnn

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Date: Tue, 22 Aug 1995 16:24:30 -0500 (CDT)
From: David John Place <umplace@cc.UManitoba.CA>
Subject: Re: Tyre mount

Instead of fighting with the cams on the Land Rover tyre mount, you might 
want to put a single centre bolt with a plate and keep extra winch cable, 
chain or other goodies under the plate.  Land Rovers are a little short 
on storage space.  Dave VE4PN

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From: Joe Manickam <JoeM@hesston.edu>
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 1995 16:21:00 -600

Greetings from Kansas!  I recently heard about a sound dampening mat
but can't seem to get hold of the stuff.  It's a self-adhesive mat that is cut
to fit that's placed on door panels, under the hood, ect.  It's called
*roadkill*.  Has anyone heard of this stuff?  If so, can you help me locate
some.  There is also a similar material called*Accumat*.  Does this ring a
bell with anyone?  I would appreciate any help in this area.

Joe Manickam  -  joem@hesston.edu
Hesston, Kansas

Land Rover, slow but sure!

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Date: Tue, 22 Aug 1995 16:43:46 -0500 (CDT)
From: David John Place <umplace@cc.UManitoba.CA>
Subject: Land Rover Shocks

A few months ago I referred to Gabriel Gas Ryder LT shocks for the Land 
Rover and I gave the numbers G63494 and G63299 with the longer ones on 
the back.  Those are correct numbers, but my "expert" on suspensions told 
me today that the 63 series is OK for very heavy work, in his words for 
carrying cement, but that the 53 series would give a much softer ride.  
Well we all know what the ride is like and why drive a cement truck when 
for a little less you can drive a tank.  Just a note that someone might 
want to add to the FAQ list.  Also, the National 410694 axle seal instead 
of the 41069 seems to be slightly better because it is a double lip seal 
instead of single.  I put lots of wheel bearing grease in the hollow part 
of the seal before assembly this time to see if it is better than 
ordinary grease.  Some wheel bearing greases have strands of something in 
them that pulls the grease into the bearings so I figured this stuff 
would have a bit more body and might keep the oil in longer.  Just an 
experiment however and I will tell you if it lets go in the next few 
months.  One other thing on the HD shocks.  My guy says the HD Gasriders 
foam up and freeze to rock in Canada and not to use them.  Perhaps the 
original info I got was for UK where they don't get -40C. The moral might 
be, buy cheap ones and change often of you want a soft ride.  Dave VE4PN

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Date: Tue, 22 Aug 1995 16:47:58 -0500 (CDT)
From: David John Place <umplace@cc.UManitoba.CA>
Subject: Land Rover Truck Cap

Does anyone in Canada have a Ser IIA truck cab top for sale.  It doesn't 
have to be fancy but I want all the windows and if possible the filler 
strip for the back.  I have lots of diesel parts for trade like heads and 
internals etc. or cash. If it was sandstone it would help but any colour 
us OK.  Dave VE4PN

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From: kirkwood@strider.fm.intel.com (Clayton Kirkwood)
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 1995 14:48:33 -0700
Subject: some recent 95 disco problems

Our disco is about 3.5 months old now with about 4100 miles some of it
actually offroad. Some recent problems:

1. one leather seat had the leather cracking. replaced seat (or cover)

2. one leather seat had some stitching come loose. replaced seat (or cover)

3.  sunroof  mechanism started jamming on open. Being replaced. (second
sunroof seems to be similarly failing).

4. Came home from long trip with family. Try to leave next day, and AT
shifter won't move out of Park. Problem was release button although it would
move, would not engage release catch. Had to have Disco towed to dealership
at great embarassment :>) 5 minute fix but I have no idea how they loosened
the release cable. I presume there is a simple way to pop the shifter knob
off. This could have stranded us anywhere!!

5. Air conditioning weak. Our Saturn 4door has much greater capacity.

6. Early signs of leaking lubrication fluids from various underbody locations
(big surprise!!! :>)

7. Low power on stereo system (yes, both controls have been adjusted).

8. Rear ac passage way between inner plastic window and outer glass window
"hazy".

9. "yellowing" of rubber gasket around back windows.

-- 
Clayton R. Kirkwood, FM1-58, 916 356-5838

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From: kirkwood@strider.fm.intel.com (Clayton Kirkwood)
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 1995 15:30:06 -0700
Subject: A couple of questions?????

I would like to get a manual for my 95 Disco. Apparently, several are out
there. Which are ones to definitely buy or stay away from?

Having leather seats, I would like to keep them in good shape. Suggestions
for leather care products? This is my first opportunity to own leather, and
I'd like to keep them nice.

Yes, I know, they are supposed to have scratches, dings etc, but until such
time as I deserve them, I'd like to do the best job of keeping the (outside)
finish looking good. Any recommendations for coatings like wax or silicone or
the new finishes? How about the rubber seals around the windows?

I know that this has been posted before, but I can't find any references so
pardon me...what is the equivalent oil filter for the 95 disco?

Am I running a big risk not having skid plates under me or are the diffs
tough enough for most duty?

When I bought my Disco, I also got the trailer tow kit and wiring harness. I
would have thought that the wiring harness would have included the actual
connection to the trailer not just some wires hanging down from under the
back. What have others gotten for the "wiring harness". Jim Pappas
especially, what is this option supposed to provide? Also, the tow kit had
both balls and two safety chains: what are these for? My trailer comes with
safety chains, are these for some other purpose? (Documentation? What
documentation?)

Thanks very much...

-- 
Clayton R. Kirkwood, FM1-58, 916 356-5838

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Date: Tue, 22 Aug 1995 16:17:03 -0700
From: growl@hsmpk14a-101.Eng.Sun.COM (William L. Grouell)
Subject: Re: Damn, I hate electrical problems...

> The way the switch is now (the big black barrel-type with the central key),
> Off == off
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
> It isn't SUPPOSED to do this, is it?
>      Alan

  This is the US optional wiring to the switch. You can move the wire that
supplies the markers to the other terminal for European style (markers on
with head lamps). 

R, bg

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From: RICKCRIDER@aol.com
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 1995 19:17:13 -0400
Subject: "Positive Ground"

I'm a bit confused by the positive ground (positive earth) system on my ' 66
IIA  109".
The previous owner changed from the old generator to a modern 12 volt 'one
wire' type alternator.......so.....here's the question:    The PO ran the
'one wire' to the Negative post on the battery.....is this correct?    Even
though the system itself is positive ground shouldn't the charging wire from
the alternator go to the Positive post of the battery anyhow?

Also,  since the newer alternator has a built in regulator,  the charge
indicator light on the dash no longer works.......haven't checked into that
any farther at this point.    Either way,  the battery,  which was in the
truck when I bought it,  is not *that* old......it doesn't seem to charge up,
 or stay charged.    HELP.
Thanks to all.......
Rick Crider

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Date: 22 Aug 95 20:33:23 EDT
From: Mark Talbot <71035.3215@compuserve.com>
Subject: SIII for sale

FOR SALE

"Beryl" my SIII is up for sale. Here are the details : 

72 SIII, SWB (88), Recent engine rebuild, Overdrive, FWH, Solid frame, rebuilt
last year. New brake system, shoes, lines, master cylinder, wheel cylinders
hoses. New Clutch and pressure plates, master and slave cylinders.  New exhaust
system and manifold. Rochester carb. 

Excellent interior, Trakkers high back seats in Moorland trim with matching
cubby box, new headlining on tropical roof, new door interior panels with arm
rests. dash has no cracks or holes. New door locks throughout and a heated rear
window, Carpeted, Radio/cassette. New door tops and window channels throughout,
the windows open, no moss !!!  

Has new lights all round and 90/110 reversing lamps with a high mounted 90/110
brake lamp. 90/110 door mirrors. 

Discovery steel wheels with 265/75 tyres. Original wheels with tyres available. 

Needs a paint job to finish. All documentation and receipts available.  

Asking $6000 

Call Mark on 603-357-3401 or e-mail. 

Selling to fund 109 rebuild and buy a Defender 90 

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From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date: 22 Aug 95 20:51:39 EDT
Subject: Re: "Positive Ground"

Rick, if they hooked up a Delcotron alternator to positive ground setup, it
is hosed - they blew the regulator. The way these are typically done is that
the batteery is turned around, and thealternator then installed as it should
be.

Make sure that you're not reading the setup wrong - it's easy to get confused
and think it's still positive ground when it's been converted. I did mine, and 
it
was a trivial change - replacing all the crappy battery cables was the real 
trick.

Email me if you need help - Alan

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From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date: 22 Aug 95 20:45:48 EDT
Subject: Re: Sound dampening matting

See, I can ANSwer questions, too...8*)

The stuff you are looking for goes under several trade names, but the
primary source of the brand-name stuff is 3M. it's called Dynamat, and the
peel and stick roll of it I have here has a part # of 6211-0433 (4.33 sq. ft).

There are several imitators made which are just as god. What this stuff
does is to damp the resonant frequencies of the panel it's adhered. to.

If you want this and other sound-dampening materials, you can either
go to J.C. Whitney or to Crutchfield (the car stereo folks). 1-800-555-1212
should get you numbers for either or both - I don't have them handy.

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Date: 22 Aug 95 21:38:13 EDT
From: compuserve <72647.2641@compuserve.com>
Subject: Need Advice

All right Land Rover people I need some help. I have located a 59-60 SWB truck
in Maine.(the stupid part is I am in Tennessee) It has all the SW trim, jump
seats, deluxe bonnet, safari top. The frame is slightly rusted but usable for
several years after some welding. Needs new brake lines, no doubt. He has many
trucks around so he hasn't had it started in a while. Needs footwell kits. Right
now he wants $1600 for it, thats no work done as is. I need help on several
things. He would probably let me use his welding shop so I might be able to
patch the frame there. And probably replace the brake lines on site, if these
things would make it drivable(to Tenn).
I need to know a few things:
anyhting about the frame I know nothing

would it be feasable to drive it to Tennessee, it might be cheaper than shipping
depending on what happens. Me and my friend that has a Land Rover could fly up
there maybe do the repairs enough to get it home(easily, and slowly)if nothing
too major is wrong 

are there any of you guys up there who would mind maybe helping me out if I buy
it?

Next time I call I will ask him to try to start it and ask him to send pictures.

Thanks ahead of time, 
                                    Will Cantrell                       ps I am
a student so any thing above
                                     '72 BMW                               $200
is considered expensive
                                     '59 SWB SW(hopefully)

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Date: 22 Aug 95 22:16:47 EDT
From: compuserve <72647.2641@compuserve.com>
Subject: one more thing

what exactly are the big and small differences between seriesII and IIA.
If I get that Series II can I order parts that say they are for IIA?
 
Thanks again,
                         Will Cantrell
                   

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Date: Tue, 22 Aug 1995 22:32:25 -0500
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Rover on camers

Spent a hot day in front of the camera filming four more prologues/epilogues 
for the upcoming season of "Archaeology".  The series is now broadcast in 
the UK under the title "Time Travelers".  Seems British audiences objected 
to a non-PhD (John Rhys Davies) narrating a film on archaeology.  Today, the 
Rover journeyed from Chile to Rome to France and back to Florida, all while 
staying within the confines of Seashore/First Landing State Park.  John Rhys 
was his usual jovial self...he just came from the set of some boxing film 
where he plays a Cockney promoter "totally without redeeming values.  Seems 
I've been typecast."  Hardly.  This man *knows* Land-Rovers. (He owns five.) 
 He's been the only one to notice that the toe-in on mine needs adjustment 
and asked about camshaft grinds.  Cheers
      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |       Rover Owners' Association of Virginia         |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 804-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    804-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 804-622-7056     |
      *-----------------------------------------------------*

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Date: 22 Aug 95 22:49:21 EDT
From: Robert Dennis <73363.427@compuserve.com>
Subject: Reply to 90 RR stalling

John-
 I had the exact same problem a few months ago with my 90 RR. It would run
fine except that it could not hold an idle from time to time. It finally got
to the point that I could not stand it so I took it to Hennessey. It turned
out that two of the emission hoses on the engine had cracks and were leaking.
They were replaced and it has behaved ever since. Both of these hoses were
quite expensive but what isn't at the dealer<g>. You might take a good look at
all the lines on the engine to see if they have started to crack.

 Hope this helps.
 Rob Dennis
 Atlanta, GA USA
 73363.427@Compuserve.com
 22-Aug-1995

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From: LANDROVER@delphi.com
Date: Wed, 23 Aug 1995 01:22:25 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Need Advice

Will Cantrell asks...

> All right Land Rover people I need some help. I have located a 59-60 SWB
> truck in Maine. (snip)  The frame is slightly rusted. (snip) Needs new
> brake lines, no doubt. He has many trucks around so he hasn't had it
> started in a while. Needs footwell kits.
/

..snip.....

> He would probably let me use his welding shop so I might be able
> to patch the frame there. And probably replace the brake lines on site,
> if these things would make it drivable(to Tenn).
> I need to know a few things:
/

> anyhting about the frame I know nothing
/

Sounds about right for a truck in the north-east. Things rust out up here.
As a rule, they don't in Tenn, so be prepared for the worst. The big frame
question is where is it rusted? Most parts can be replaced or patched. The
really critical places are the front frame horns and the rear part of the
frame where the rear cross member and rear springs attach. If the front
horns are rusted badly enough to be weakened, the frame may break and it
will be very difficult to tow the vehicle. If the rear of the frame is bad
enough, the rear spring mounts could come loose. The rear cross-member on
most trucks rusts and needs replacement, but usually the frame where the
cross-member attaches is still fairly solid. The next thing that usually
rusts out is the front outriggers. These are directly behind the front
wheels and take quite a beating from road salt and gravel. You can still
drive with the outriggers completely rusted away, but they should be
replaced since they help support the bulkhead (firewall). The frame could
also rust out any place dirt has been allowed to collect. The dirt will
retain moisture and promote rusting. Hopefully, the only bad parts are the
rear cross-member and the outriggers.  

As far as brakes go, the steel brake pipes may be rusted out and the
hydraulics could be leaking. The same goes for the clutch. 

Also, depending on how long this Rover has been sitting, you could have
other problems. Engine, transmission and steering componants could be
suffering from dried out seals, lack of lubricants, etc. The tires could
also be dry-rotted. 

> would it be feasable to drive it to Tennessee, it might be cheaper than
> shipping  depending on what happens.
/

Most shippers would probably prefer that the vehicle is running and has
brakes. I could be wrong. (My brother used to transport privately owned
vehicles from coast-to-coast and he had to drive the cars on and off his car
hauler trailer.) 
You might want to consider borrowing or renting a tow bar or even a trailer
and towing the Rover back. I flat towed my '65 Rover from Pittsburg - only
about 400 miles - with almost no problems. (I borrowed a tow bar and tow
vehicle - a VW Syncro.) I would say bring extra tires or tires mounted on
Rover wheels if you can borrow some from your friend. Also, if you do
tow, you may want to consider dropping the Rover drive shafts to reduce the
amount of things spinning around.

> are there any of you guys up there who would mind maybe helping me out if
> I buy it?
/

If you're passing by this way, sure!

> Next time I call I will ask him to try to start it and ask him to send
> pictures.
/

Definately ask him to start it. $1600 for a Rover that won't run is just too
much. 

Cheers
  Michael Loiodice       E-MAIL   landrover@delphi.com              
  166 W.Fulton St.       VOICE    (518) 773-2697                    
  Gloversville                                                      
  NY, 12078              1965 Ser IIa 88 Petrol ("Sidney")      
              7          1972 Ser III 88 Petrol ("Fern")
           #:-}>         1971 Ser IIa 88 Petrol (Parts is Parts)

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From: LANDROVER@delphi.com
Date: Wed, 23 Aug 1995 01:22:00 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: "Positive Ground"

Rick Crider is in the dark...

> The previous owner changed from the old generator to a modern 12 volt 'one
> wire' type alternator.......so.....here's the question:    The PO ran the
> 'one wire' to the Negative post on the battery.....is this correct?
/

Run away, run away! The alternator is probably a Delco, right? Chances are
very good that the alternator is NOT wired for positive ground. To tell you
the truth, I don't think such a beast can be found. 
The solution is to change back to a generator OR change the vehicle to
negative ground. Very easy to do.
1. Disconnect the battery.
2. If you have an ammeter, remove the dashboard instrument panel and reverse
the wires on the ammeter. Replace the panel.
3. Remove the voltage regulator from the bulkhead and "bypass" the wiring.
    The three heavy push-on connectors have to be wired together.
    The two lighter connectors with the insulators can be wired together.
    The remaining un-insulated connector should be taped off.    
4. Connect the alternator output to the heavier wire in the original harness.
5. Re-connect the battery for negative ground. 

The alternator should now be connected to the POSITIVE battery terminal. 
In your case, you probably will want to check out the alternator. It may be
fried since it was connected backwards. Hopefully, the PO bypassed the
original voltage regulator. If not, you should. Also, you should
disconnect the new wire (from the single terminal alternator) from the
battery terminal and run it to the connection of the three wires where the
voltage regulator was.  By wiring the alternator directly to the battery,
the ammeter will never show a charging condition, even though the alternator
may in fact be charging the battery. 

> Even though the system itself is positive ground shouldn't the charging
> wire from the alternator go to the Positive post of the battery anyhow?
/

*Only* if the truck has been re-wired for NEGATIVE GROUND.

> Also,  since the newer alternator has a built in regulator,  the charge
> indicator light on the dash no longer works.......haven't checked into
> that any farther at this point.

/

I assumed you have an ammeter. If everything is wired correctly, the ammeter
should show a charge/discharge condition. In the past, some people have
suggested adding a voltmeter as a better indication of the alternator
output. Others have suggested the original ammeter won't stand up to the new
alternator output and you may need to replace the ammeter with a higher
capacity unit. I have a Delco alternator in my '65 IIa and the original
ammeter seems to work fine.

Cheers
  Michael Loiodice       E-MAIL   landrover@delphi.com              
  166 W.Fulton St.       VOICE    (518) 773-2697                    
  Gloversville                                                      
  NY, 12078              1965 Ser IIa 88 Petrol ("Sidney")      
              7          1972 Ser III 88 Petrol ("Fern")
           #:-}>         1971 Ser IIa 88 Petrol (Parts is Parts)

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Date: Tue, 22 Aug 1995 22:43:53 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Joseph V. Modarelli" <jvm@scs.unr.edu>
Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

James Curtis was looking for some way to "unfreeze" metal parts   there 
is a great prodduct for this that can ber found at most electronic shops, 
(use what you need where you find it)  it's called DE-OX-ID (PN10-1906) made 
by GC electronics in Rockford, Illnois 61101 USA.  I don't know if 
it is distributed overseas but worth a try, and just may keep you from 
burning  yourself or whatrever.  Apply it liberally ans let it soak in 
during dinner or longer then ...go!

Joseph V. Modarelli
Carson City, NEVADA		"We are but seekers of the lamp of knowledge"
jvm@scs.unr.edu

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  END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST 
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