[ First Message Last | Table of Contents | <- Digest -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
msg | Sender | lines | Subject |
1 | Ketil Kirkerud [ketil@if | 14 | Re: back again; misc.replies |
2 | Richard Jones [rich@apri | 26 | Re: Misc. |
3 | "Tom Rowe" [TROWE@AE.AGE | 43 | Re: Tyre mount |
4 | sreddock@VNET.IBM.COM | 37 | Mysteries... |
5 | Tony@hawtec.demon.co.uk | 25 | RE: Snorkle for Defenders ? |
6 | Tony@hawtec.demon.co.uk | 23 | RE: Series III Troubles....... |
7 | Tony@hawtec.demon.co.uk | 33 | RE: Thoroughly Ceased Track Rod! |
8 | Tony@hawtec.demon.co.uk | 33 | Starting Problems: Fuel Vapourisation? |
9 | Mr Ian Stuart [Ian.Stuar | 22 | More Web pages |
10 | Chris Haslam [haslam@alc | 16 | Bicycle Rack for '88 Range Rover |
11 | "T.F. Mills" [tomills@du | 21 | Re: More Web pages |
12 | DEBROWN@SRP.GOV | 39 | CD for Disco. |
13 | Peter Kutschera [peter@z | 21 | Re: More Web pages |
14 | Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus [A | 28 | Damn, I hate electrical problems... |
15 | Richard Jones [rich@apri | 33 | More Web pages |
16 | Mark Talbot [71035.3215@ | 40 | SIII For Sale |
17 | Duncan Brown [DB@CHO004. | 43 | Light switch |
18 | Dixon Kenner [dkenner@em | 18 | Re: Damn, I hate electrical problems... |
19 | RICKCRIDER@aol.com | 65 | SIII Troubles..Ricks follow up........ |
20 | "John P. Casteel" [70472 | 33 | '90, RR stalling |
21 | jhoward@atlas.usno.navy. | 15 | Air conditioning |
22 | "TeriAnn Wakeman" [twak | 19 | Re: Damn, I hate electrical problems... |
23 | David John Place [umplac | 9 | Re: Tyre mount |
24 | Joe Manickam [JoeM@hesst | 16 | [not specified] |
25 | David John Place [umplac | 24 | Land Rover Shocks |
26 | David John Place [umplac | 10 | Land Rover Truck Cap |
27 | kirkwood@strider.fm.inte | 37 | some recent 95 disco problems |
28 | kirkwood@strider.fm.inte | 37 | A couple of questions????? |
29 | growl@hsmpk14a-101.Eng.S | 16 | Re: Damn, I hate electrical problems... |
30 | RICKCRIDER@aol.com | 21 | "Positive Ground" |
31 | Mark Talbot [71035.3215@ | 32 | SIII for sale |
32 | Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus [A | 18 | Re: "Positive Ground" |
33 | Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus [A | 18 | Re: Sound dampening matting |
34 | compuserve [72647.2641@c | 33 | Need Advice |
35 | compuserve [72647.2641@c | 11 | one more thing |
36 | rover@pinn.net (Alexande | 23 | Rover on camers |
37 | Robert Dennis [73363.427 | 19 | Reply to 90 RR stalling |
38 | LANDROVER@delphi.com | 87 | Re: Need Advice |
39 | LANDROVER@delphi.com | 65 | Re: "Positive Ground" |
40 | "Joseph V. Modarelli" [j | 16 | Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest |
From: Ketil Kirkerud <ketil@ifi.uio.no> Date: Tue, 22 Aug 1995 12:08:51 +0200 Subject: Re: back again; misc.replies > SLROC) are in Norway (and have been for over a week) -- they may have > dropped in ;-) Yes, there was. If we're talking about a 88ish coilsprung hybrid with a somewhat strange headlamp arrangement. As far as I can remember it did'nt do too badly in the trials competition. ---Ketil ------------------------------[ <- Message 2 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950823 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Richard Jones <rich@apricot.mee.com> Subject: Re: Misc. Date: Tue, 22 Aug 1995 12:25:36 +0100 (BST) jpappa01@interserv.com writes: > - BTW, the long-lived Range Rover Classic is officially OUT OF PRODUCTION. The latest official comment from Land Rover is that the Classic will continue in production for the time being (next review due at the end of the year), but there are still contracts to fill with Virgin Atlantic and various Police Forces. Production currently stands at 80 units per week with most if not all pre sold. However, it isn't surprising that it should be phased out from overseas markets as demand begins to declines, or regulation changes require changes to the model. As far as I know there will be no changes to the 1995 model for 1996, with the exception of a reduced model range. __ _ __ Apricot Computer Limited ' ) ) / 3500 Parkside Tel: (+44) 121 717 7171 /--' o _. /_ Birmingham Business Park Fax: (+44) 121 717 0123 / <_<_(__/ <_ BIRMINGHAM B37 7YS Richard Jones United Kingdom Email: richardj@apricot.co.uk ------------------------------[ <- Message 3 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950823 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU> Date: Tue, 22 Aug 1995 07:07:49 GMT -0600 Subject: Re: Tyre mount > Rob asks: 1) Can anybody try and describe how to use the hood (bonnet(sp?)) mounted spare tire holder. It has 2 bolts and two "cams" as they are called in RN's catalog. snip And Daryl wrote: Ok, place the cams on the bolts such that the longest "leg" is towards the mounting plate. Turn the cams so that the long axis is across the vehicle and the long side is facing outwards. (the cam is slightly curved, sort of like a crescent moon, you want the the two cams to be like this ( ) not ) ( on the mount Get your wheel and put it over the centre of the mount with the front (outside) facing down towards the bonnet, the cams are then turned to clamp the back of the rim down. The long leg of the cam should be touching the top of the mount when the bolts are tightened, if it isnt then you need longer legged cams (there are at least two different sizes ) And I add: On some of the cams (the ones with the longer legs) you can remove the bolt and flip them over if needed (one leg is longer than the other), based on the size tire you have. You will have to remove a cotter pin from the bolt from inside the bonnet, if it's still there. If you need a cam with longer legs, a cheaper alternative is to use a piece of 1x2 between the legs and the plate. That's been my remedy for years on my LR that has the shorter legged cams. It also helps to keep the cam from spinning as you tighten it. Oh yeah, put some NeverSeeze on the bolt threads. I've often found those galvanized bolts a bear to turn. Tom Rowe UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research 608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578 trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck in places even more inaccessible. ------------------------------[ <- Message 4 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950823 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: sreddock@VNET.IBM.COM Date: Tue, 22 Aug 95 12:49:23 BST Subject: Mysteries... Dave, I can't help you on you timing pointer as my Lightweight has a Ford V6 fitted and I can't remember what the old engine had. However I think it could be the problem for your other symptoms. Engines run on because the head is too hot. One reason for the head being too hot is that the timing is too far advanced, which also causes burbling on over-run or engine braking. For some real fun advance it a bit more and it might even give a proper back fire when you lift off at high revs! The leaking silencer also doesn't help as it will reduce the back pressure and cause the mixture to lean out, which also causes hot heads. Also if the beast used to be at low altitude and has now moved to high altitude (please forgive my total ignorance of geography on your side of the Atlantic!) the mixture will also be leaned out and cause the problems. General lack of power however as you describe points towards lean mixture. I would take the car to a garage for a proper tune up. I never bother to set timing and mixture myself, as I don't have all the kit, but I have always saved money by getting more economy after a tune up. The headlamp problem is normal. Check all the earthing and general wire condition. Are you getting even close to 12V at the back of the bulb? After you fix this they still won't work of course, you will just go from dim candle power to dull candle power. Fit halogens if you don't have infra-red vision. Hope all this helps. Steve Reddock. Hampshire, UK. Lightweight V6 called Bastard as it always breaks down. ------------------------------[ <- Message 5 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950823 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sat, 19 Aug 95 18:25:44 PDT From: Tony@hawtec.demon.co.uk Subject: RE: Snorkle for Defenders ? A company called Mantech which advertises in Land Rover International Magazine manufactures raised air intakes for series II II & III, 90's and 110's. Let me know if you would like address and telephone numbers. ------------------------------------- Tony Chapman HAWTEC Tel: +44 (0)1905 723200 Haswell House Fax: +44 (0)1905 613338 Saint Nicholas Street Mobile: 0973 316835 Worcester WR1 1UW E-mail: Tony@hawtec.demon.co.uk Date: 08/19/95 Time: 18:25:44 This message was sent by Chameleon ------------------------------------- ------------------------------[ <- Message 6 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950823 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sat, 19 Aug 95 18:31:20 PDT From: Tony@hawtec.demon.co.uk Subject: RE: Series III Troubles....... The filter is probably in the bottom of the tank. It is not available as a separate part but comes with the tube, part number 544658. ------------------------------------- Tony Chapman HAWTEC Tel: +44 (0)1905 723200 Haswell House Fax: +44 (0)1905 613338 Saint Nicholas Street Mobile: 0973 316835 Worcester WR1 1UW E-mail: Tony@hawtec.demon.co.uk Date: 08/19/95 Time: 18:31:20 This message was sent by Chameleon ------------------------------------- ------------------------------[ <- Message 7 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950823 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sat, 19 Aug 95 18:19:40 PDT From: Tony@hawtec.demon.co.uk Subject: RE: Thoroughly Ceased Track Rod! Suggestions for freeing rusted track rod ends: 1) Use heat from butane or propane blow lamp, applying flame principally to tube rather than track rod end. 2) grip the track rod with a pipe wrench (Stilson) or water pump pliers and rotate the track rod. Once freed, work the track rod backwards and forwards until it moves freely. Don't worry too much about wrecking the track rod ends; if they're 16 years old they probably need repalcing anyway..... Hope this helps. ------------------------------------- Tony Chapman HAWTEC Tel: +44 (0)1905 723200 Haswell House Fax: +44 (0)1905 613338 Saint Nicholas Street Mobile: 0973 316835 Worcester WR1 1UW E-mail: Tony@hawtec.demon.co.uk Date: 08/19/95 Time: 18:19:40 This message was sent by Chameleon ------------------------------------- ------------------------------[ <- Message 8 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950823 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sat, 19 Aug 95 21:12:04 PDT From: Tony@hawtec.demon.co.uk Subject: Starting Problems: Fuel Vapourisation? Over the past few weeks I have been having problems with starting my 2286 petrol SIIA when it has been standing for more than 15 minutes. I have checked points, timing, carburettor, etc. and everything seems fine. The best suggestion at the moment is that while it is standing the fuel in the carburettor is vapourising, causing delayed starting. We have had unusually high temperatures (high 80's F)in the UK over the last few weeks. I was wondering if anybody in some of the hotter parts of the world had similar problems, or is this not a problem on the L/R? Comments, suggestions please. ------------------------------------- Tony Chapman HAWTEC Tel: +44 (0)1905 723200 Haswell House Fax: +44 (0)1905 613338 Saint Nicholas Street Mobile: 0973 316835 Worcester WR1 1UW E-mail: Tony@hawtec.demon.co.uk Date: 08/19/95 Time: 21:12:04 This message was sent by Chameleon ------------------------------------- ------------------------------[ <- Message 9 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950823 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Mr Ian Stuart <Ian.Stuart@ed.ac.uk> Date: Tue, 22 Aug 1995 15:05:53 +0000 Subject: More Web pages I've now got some Land Rover stuff on the Web: Celebrities are listed at: http://www.tardis.ed.ac.uk/~kiz/celebs.html and the Scottish Land Rover Owners Club is at: http://www.tardis.ed.ac.uk/~kiz/SLROC/ Please can people tell me the addresses of their various pages (ie LLoyd & Roy, plus the Glamorgan club and any other UK clubs) Does anyone know if the ARC is on-line yet? (offers anyone?) ----** Ian Stuart (Computing Officer) +44 31 650 6205 Royal (Dick) School of Veterinary Studies, Edinburgh University. <http://www.vet.ed.ac.uk/> or <http://www.tardis.ed.ac.uk/~kiz/> ------------------------------[ <- Message 10 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950823 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 1995 10:27:41 -0400 (EDT) From: Chris Haslam <haslam@alcor.concordia.ca> Subject: Bicycle Rack for '88 Range Rover I am interested in a rack for the back of the vehicle, but I seem to have 2 choices: o a very expensive Range Rover type, with which bicycles don't scratch the body, or o Canadian Tire's $100 model, which mounts on a ball hitch (which I would also have to buy), and scratches the RR body Does anyone have a better solution? ...chris haslam ------------------------------[ <- Message 11 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950823 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "T.F. Mills" <tomills@du.edu> Subject: Re: More Web pages Date: Tue, 22 Aug 1995 09:19:39 -0600 (MDT) Ian, Glad to have your stuff on the web! Mine is at http://www.du.edu/~tomills/landrover.html It includes links to all the other major sites, and Lloyd's has links to virtually every known site. Todd T. F. Mills tomills@du.edu University of Denver Library http://www.du.edu/~tomills Denver CO 80208 USA (NEW HOME PAGE LOCATION: please update your links and bookmarks) ------------------------------[ <- Message 12 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950823 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 95 08:20:35 MST From: DEBROWN@SRP.GOV Subject: CD for Disco. FROM: David Brown Internet: debrown@srp.gov Computer Graphics Specialist * Mapping Services & Engr Graphics PAB219 (602)236-3544 - Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486 SUBJECT: CD for Disco. Christian, It's been a while now, since I tried to find a CD that would work with my '94 Disco, but I finally found one that fit the plug, (Pioneer CDX-61 I think) but it would absolutely NOT work with the radio. I contacted Crutchfields stereo (1-800-955-3000) to see if they made an adapter so I could use "any" CD changer with it instead of the Land-Rover unit. (I too felt it was too expensive.) At the time (about 9 months ago) they did not. The LR CD can be purchased from ? (Atlantic British, or British Pacific, or Rovers North, ???) for around $550. I thought that was still too high, and bought an FM modulated unit (JVC 12 disk) and it works. I would not recommend this though, because I lost a good deal of power (volume) using the FM modulated unit, and, for me, the Disco radio is already not loud enough. (What can I say, I'm a child of the '60's and '70's.) Also, there is a wee bit of static when listening to the CD's. I thought that it'd be "crystal clear", it's not. My advice, (as if you asked for it or care) is to spend the extra $100-$200 and get the unit made for it from one of the above mentioned places. (After checking again with Crutchfields, that is.) My unit also has a silly remote control thing to operate it, instead of using the radio controls. Good luck! Dave (Speak up, I can't hear you shouting) Brown #=======# Never doubt that a small group of individuals |__|__|__\___ can change the world... indeed, it's the only | _| | |_ |} thing that ever has. "(_)""""""(_)" -Margaret Mead ------------------------------[ <- Message 13 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950823 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 1995 17:42:03 +0200 From: Peter Kutschera <peter@zditr1.arcs.ac.at> Subject: Re: More Web pages Web pages: Try http://zditr1.arcs.ac.at/~peter/LR If you need some arguments: there is also a (expandable) collection of reasons to own a Landrover :-) Please extend this list! Peter http://zditr1.arcs.ac.at/~peter To feed majordomo: 3210 210 10 0 ------------------------------[ <- Message 14 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950823 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com> Date: 22 Aug 95 13:40:26 EDT Subject: Damn, I hate electrical problems... To the Lucas gods on the list : I am trying to get the headlight/marker light wiring straight on old Churchill, and things are, at the least, not going well... The way the switch is now (the big black barrel-type with the central key), Off == off 1st position: Marker lights, no headlights 2nd position: Headlights, no marker lights It isn't SUPPOSED to do this, is it? Is this a wiring bodge, or is the blasted switch bad? If the switch is bad, I sincerely think I'm going to modify to late S2a and go with bat-handle switches. That huge switch gives me the willies...<grin>. Incidentally, anybody heard from Charlie Wright lately? I wonder how his move back to reality, er...the US is going...<grin> (It's a JOKE.....humor....) Alan ------------------------------[ <- Message 15 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950823 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Richard Jones <rich@apricot.mee.com> Subject: More Web pages Date: Tue, 22 Aug 1995 17:39:16 +0100 (BST) Ian Stuart writes: > Please can people tell me the addresses of their various pages (ie LLoyd & > Roy, plus the Glamorgan club and any other UK clubs) I am trying to collect as many Rover related URLs as I can find and put them in one place: http://www.apricot.co.uk/rel3/directory/rrr/rover.html Hopefully all the URLs you are looking for are already there. If there are any that should be there but arn't please let me know and I will add them. > Does anyone know if the ARC is on-line yet? (offers anyone?) Not as far as I know. I have put a page together with some basic ARC information at: http://www.apricot.co.uk/rel3/directory/rrr/arc.html If anyone (from the ARC or elsewhere) has any further ARC information they would like me to add to it, let me know and I will see what I can do. __ _ __ Apricot Computer Limited ' ) ) / 3500 Parkside Tel: (+44) 121 717 7171 /--' o _. /_ Birmingham Business Park Fax: (+44) 121 717 0123 / <_<_(__/ <_ BIRMINGHAM B37 7YS Richard Jones United Kingdom Email: richardj@apricot.co.uk ------------------------------[ <- Message 16 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950823 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: 22 Aug 95 14:36:06 EDT From: Mark Talbot <71035.3215@compuserve.com> Subject: SIII For Sale ---------- Forwarded Message ---------- From: Mark Talbot, 71035,3215 TO: INTERNET:owner-lro-digest@uk.stratus.com, INTERNET:owner-lro-digest@uk.stratus.com DATE: 8/22/95 2:35 PM RE: Copy of: SIII For Sale All, I have decided to sell "Beryl" my SIII. 1972 SIII, SWB Station Wagon, Overdrive, FWH, New parts include: Complete brake, clutch overhauls. New brake lines, fuel lines and hoses all round. Stacks of new parts. Frame in good solid condition. New door tops, and window channels. Trakker high back seats, cubby box, tropical roof with new headlining, new interior door panels and armrests. Heated rear window. Carpeted and it has a radio cassette that you can hear ! This vehicle sits on 16 " Discovery steel wheels with 265/75 mud radial tyres. New exhaust and loads on new parts. 90/110 door mirrors. New lights throughout, including 90/110 reversing lamps and brake light. Needs a paint job as it's currently in shades of blue, red and green. Bodywork is in good straight condition with no dents or rot. Asking $6000. Mark 603-357-3401 or e-mail me back Selling to fund 109 rebuild and also buy a Defender 90. ------------------------------[ <- Message 17 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950823 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 1995 15:29:29 -0500 (EST) From: Duncan Brown <DB@CHO004.CHO.GE.COM> Subject: Light switch Alan, > The way the switch is now (the big black barrel-type with the central key), > Off == off [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)] > 2nd position: Headlights, no marker lights > It isn't SUPPOSED to do this, is it? Actually, according to my circa-1962 factory manual, that *is* the way it's supposed to work, for North American applications. You think they read a DOT excerpt wrong or something??? My 1962 TR-4 had it right... When I was bringing my 1960 SII back from the dead, I had all sorts of interesting electrical problems. A large number of them were traceable back to the main power feed being connected to the main electrical system "on" connection ("A" I believe?) and vice versa on this switch. Made for some interesting behavior, heh heh... So I was really into the nuts and bolts of how this thing was wired, and discovered that the above light behavior was correct. I was just trying to figure out how to get the state inspection station to believe that (notarized letter from Lucas??) when I realized that my switch contained an *extra* connector, not spelled out on the diagram. Sure enough, by hooking the marker lamps to that connector, they come on by themselves at the "S" position, and *stay* on in the "H" position. It was something like "S1" or "S2" or something. If necessary, I can open up my dash and find it again. If you don't have that connector, could you get by with just wiring them in with the headlights? So nothing would come on in "S", and everything would come on in "H". Might get you a funny look from the inspector, but should pass, right? Is there a law that says you have to be able to turn on just the running lights? Duncan ------------------------------[ <- Message 18 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950823 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 1995 15:39:40 -0400 (EDT) From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.emr.ca> Subject: Re: Damn, I hate electrical problems... On 22 Aug 1995, Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus wrote: > The way the switch is now (the big black barrel-type with the central key), > Off == off [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)] > 2nd position: Headlights, no marker lights > It isn't SUPPOSED to do this, is it? Yes it is... :-) Canadian (and probably American) lighting regulations in the early 1960's required the front marker lights to be extinguished when the headlamps were turned on. Rgds, ------------------------------[ <- Message 19 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950823 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: RICKCRIDER@aol.com Date: Tue, 22 Aug 1995 16:23:25 -0400 Subject: SIII Troubles..Ricks follow up........ Thanksk to all who responded......... BOY!!......what a difference removing the gas tank and cleaning it makes........I can actually travel more than 3 to 4 miles without having to clean out the glass bowl fuel filter now. Removing the tank was a breeze......discarded all the old gas properly. Thoroughly washed out the tank with a wizards mixture of various rust and scale removing solutions mixed with water. Let it sit for most of day. Then mixed up another batch and put in a 3' piece of logging chain and shook the daylights out of it. Absolutely amazing all the crud, scale, and misc. goo that came out. Among all the goo I also found the following: *1973 penny.....copper still well preserved. *Remnants of the cute little chain that holds the inner filler neck to the outer filler neck. *Slimey remnants of silicone type sealant that was apparently used previously to seal the fuel sending unit gasket. *Remnants of the brass mesh screen sock that used to be on the bottom of feed tube. and noted the following: *The feed tube (pick up tube) only clears the bottom of the tank about a quarter of an inch....so....any garbage on the bottom of tank is prime candidate for being sucked right up the tube. *The pick up tube itself was *quite* grungy inside.....cleaned it with a rifle barrel cleaning brush and rod. Couldn't find the brass mesh screen material to fabricate a new tube sock from......instead used a similar item made for Volvo.......it's a fibreglass type mesh sock about six inches long with a metal collar at the top. Simple cut off the metal collar, singe the cut edges with a match to prevent unravelling, slip it over the tube and secure it with several wraps of galvanized (stainless would be better) bailing wire. Works great. ( a nylon wire tie pulled tightly may work as well....) Blew out ALL lines with compressed air.......amazing what it spits out. Painted tank and reinstalled with all new stainless bolts, washers and nuts. (Also cleaned and painted the frame area that is normally inaccessable when the tank is in place.) Fabricated necessary gaskets out of a sheet of gasket material.......new ones are available,,,,just hated to wait on UPS to bring such trivial items.....Put it all back together and ....*VOILA*.....an amazing difference.......no more stumbling and it actually ACCELERATES now. Jesse is a 22 year old truck.......guess it was about time to clean out its bowels. I got two different responses about which way to bend the sender float rod to warn me ahead of time that he's low on gas.........don't know why that simple rule of physics is so hard to figure out. Thanks all....... Cordially: Rick Crider KD4FXA Monroe NC ' 66 SIIA 109" five door....(Hugo).....and for sale also. ' 73 SIII 88" (Jesse) My pet.....money couldn't buy him. ' 88 Range Rover.......no name......just my daily pack mule. ------------------------------[ <- Message 20 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950823 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: 22 Aug 95 16:19:22 EDT From: "John P. Casteel" <70472.557@compuserve.com> Subject: '90, RR stalling Hello Gang, I have a '90 RR that began stalling earlier this summer. I'm open to possible solutions from any of you. I just passed 60k miles and I have started the 60k service (I'm doing the work myself.) I have replaced the fuel and air filter so the stalling isn't due to those items. I suspect that it is the PCV system but before shelling out the $ for parts I decided to ask for your advice. The stalling occurs because of a low idle speed. Before the start of this HOT summer the RPMs remained constant at ~ 800. Now, more often than not, the RPMs hover around 500 and sometimes they drop all the way to zero. Is the PCV a likely culprit? Other than this the Rangie drives great. One more question while I have your attention. Two weeks ago an A/C hose erupted. The OEM replacement is $187 (RN). While I always try to use OE sometimes it's just not worth it. One of the other hoses says GOODYEAR so I'd like to see if any 'ol A/C shop can make a replacement. Any experience with the A/C hoses? (This is the hose running from the compressor to the condensor. >From under the bonnet to inside the dash.) BTW, thanks to all who frequent this digest. I'm learning tons and I find your experiences intriguing. Many thanks to all who can help. John Casteel, Atlanta GA '90 RR wishing I had a garage to hide a series LR from my wife. ------------------------------[ <- Message 21 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950823 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 95 16:36 EDT From: jhoward@atlas.usno.navy.mil (James D. Howard) Subject: Air conditioning I can't remember who it was who inquired about airconditioning his Series Land Rover about a month ago, but I though I would pass this on. In the Eastwood catalog, there is a book called "How to Air Condition Your Car", stock # 1466, $19.95. 144pp, by Tim Remus. Their phone number is 800-345-1178. Standard disclaimers apply. James Howard jhoward@argus.lowell.edu 1972 SIII 88 "Ephraim" Flagstaff, Arizona, USA ------------------------------[ <- Message 22 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950823 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 95 13:53:58 -0700 From: "TeriAnn Wakeman" <twakeman@apple.com> Subject: Re: Damn, I hate electrical problems... In message <199508221829.NAA05648@butler.uk.stratus.com> Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus writes: > To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net > To the Lucas gods on the list : [ truncated by lro-digester (was 18 lines)] > 1st position: Marker lights, no headlights > 2nd position: Headlights, no marker lights > It isn't SUPPOSED to do this, is it? Memory says that is the way the factory wired the Land Rover's lights. However, if you move the wire to the parking lights over to the terminal with the tail lights you will get what you want. I did it to my LR in the late seventies. TeriAnn ------------------------------[ <- Message 23 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950823 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 1995 16:24:30 -0500 (CDT) From: David John Place <umplace@cc.UManitoba.CA> Subject: Re: Tyre mount Instead of fighting with the cams on the Land Rover tyre mount, you might want to put a single centre bolt with a plate and keep extra winch cable, chain or other goodies under the plate. Land Rovers are a little short on storage space. Dave VE4PN ------------------------------[ <- Message 24 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950823 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Joe Manickam <JoeM@hesston.edu> Date: Tue, 22 Aug 1995 16:21:00 -600 Greetings from Kansas! I recently heard about a sound dampening mat but can't seem to get hold of the stuff. It's a self-adhesive mat that is cut to fit that's placed on door panels, under the hood, ect. It's called *roadkill*. Has anyone heard of this stuff? If so, can you help me locate some. There is also a similar material called*Accumat*. Does this ring a bell with anyone? I would appreciate any help in this area. Joe Manickam - joem@hesston.edu Hesston, Kansas Land Rover, slow but sure! ------------------------------[ <- Message 25 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950823 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 1995 16:43:46 -0500 (CDT) From: David John Place <umplace@cc.UManitoba.CA> Subject: Land Rover Shocks A few months ago I referred to Gabriel Gas Ryder LT shocks for the Land Rover and I gave the numbers G63494 and G63299 with the longer ones on the back. Those are correct numbers, but my "expert" on suspensions told me today that the 63 series is OK for very heavy work, in his words for carrying cement, but that the 53 series would give a much softer ride. Well we all know what the ride is like and why drive a cement truck when for a little less you can drive a tank. Just a note that someone might want to add to the FAQ list. Also, the National 410694 axle seal instead of the 41069 seems to be slightly better because it is a double lip seal instead of single. I put lots of wheel bearing grease in the hollow part of the seal before assembly this time to see if it is better than ordinary grease. Some wheel bearing greases have strands of something in them that pulls the grease into the bearings so I figured this stuff would have a bit more body and might keep the oil in longer. Just an experiment however and I will tell you if it lets go in the next few months. One other thing on the HD shocks. My guy says the HD Gasriders foam up and freeze to rock in Canada and not to use them. Perhaps the original info I got was for UK where they don't get -40C. The moral might be, buy cheap ones and change often of you want a soft ride. Dave VE4PN ------------------------------[ <- Message 26 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950823 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 1995 16:47:58 -0500 (CDT) From: David John Place <umplace@cc.UManitoba.CA> Subject: Land Rover Truck Cap Does anyone in Canada have a Ser IIA truck cab top for sale. It doesn't have to be fancy but I want all the windows and if possible the filler strip for the back. I have lots of diesel parts for trade like heads and internals etc. or cash. If it was sandstone it would help but any colour us OK. Dave VE4PN ------------------------------[ <- Message 27 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950823 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: kirkwood@strider.fm.intel.com (Clayton Kirkwood) Date: Tue, 22 Aug 1995 14:48:33 -0700 Subject: some recent 95 disco problems Our disco is about 3.5 months old now with about 4100 miles some of it actually offroad. Some recent problems: 1. one leather seat had the leather cracking. replaced seat (or cover) 2. one leather seat had some stitching come loose. replaced seat (or cover) 3. sunroof mechanism started jamming on open. Being replaced. (second sunroof seems to be similarly failing). 4. Came home from long trip with family. Try to leave next day, and AT shifter won't move out of Park. Problem was release button although it would move, would not engage release catch. Had to have Disco towed to dealership at great embarassment :>) 5 minute fix but I have no idea how they loosened the release cable. I presume there is a simple way to pop the shifter knob off. This could have stranded us anywhere!! 5. Air conditioning weak. Our Saturn 4door has much greater capacity. 6. Early signs of leaking lubrication fluids from various underbody locations (big surprise!!! :>) 7. Low power on stereo system (yes, both controls have been adjusted). 8. Rear ac passage way between inner plastic window and outer glass window "hazy". 9. "yellowing" of rubber gasket around back windows. -- Clayton R. Kirkwood, FM1-58, 916 356-5838 ------------------------------[ <- Message 28 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950823 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: kirkwood@strider.fm.intel.com (Clayton Kirkwood) Date: Tue, 22 Aug 1995 15:30:06 -0700 Subject: A couple of questions????? I would like to get a manual for my 95 Disco. Apparently, several are out there. Which are ones to definitely buy or stay away from? Having leather seats, I would like to keep them in good shape. Suggestions for leather care products? This is my first opportunity to own leather, and I'd like to keep them nice. Yes, I know, they are supposed to have scratches, dings etc, but until such time as I deserve them, I'd like to do the best job of keeping the (outside) finish looking good. Any recommendations for coatings like wax or silicone or the new finishes? How about the rubber seals around the windows? I know that this has been posted before, but I can't find any references so pardon me...what is the equivalent oil filter for the 95 disco? Am I running a big risk not having skid plates under me or are the diffs tough enough for most duty? When I bought my Disco, I also got the trailer tow kit and wiring harness. I would have thought that the wiring harness would have included the actual connection to the trailer not just some wires hanging down from under the back. What have others gotten for the "wiring harness". Jim Pappas especially, what is this option supposed to provide? Also, the tow kit had both balls and two safety chains: what are these for? My trailer comes with safety chains, are these for some other purpose? (Documentation? What documentation?) Thanks very much... -- Clayton R. Kirkwood, FM1-58, 916 356-5838 ------------------------------[ <- Message 29 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950823 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 1995 16:17:03 -0700 From: growl@hsmpk14a-101.Eng.Sun.COM (William L. Grouell) Subject: Re: Damn, I hate electrical problems... > The way the switch is now (the big black barrel-type with the central key), > Off == off [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)] > It isn't SUPPOSED to do this, is it? > Alan This is the US optional wiring to the switch. You can move the wire that supplies the markers to the other terminal for European style (markers on with head lamps). R, bg ------------------------------[ <- Message 30 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950823 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: RICKCRIDER@aol.com Date: Tue, 22 Aug 1995 19:17:13 -0400 Subject: "Positive Ground" I'm a bit confused by the positive ground (positive earth) system on my ' 66 IIA 109". The previous owner changed from the old generator to a modern 12 volt 'one wire' type alternator.......so.....here's the question: The PO ran the 'one wire' to the Negative post on the battery.....is this correct? Even though the system itself is positive ground shouldn't the charging wire from the alternator go to the Positive post of the battery anyhow? Also, since the newer alternator has a built in regulator, the charge indicator light on the dash no longer works.......haven't checked into that any farther at this point. Either way, the battery, which was in the truck when I bought it, is not *that* old......it doesn't seem to charge up, or stay charged. HELP. Thanks to all....... Rick Crider ------------------------------[ <- Message 31 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950823 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: 22 Aug 95 20:33:23 EDT From: Mark Talbot <71035.3215@compuserve.com> Subject: SIII for sale FOR SALE "Beryl" my SIII is up for sale. Here are the details : 72 SIII, SWB (88), Recent engine rebuild, Overdrive, FWH, Solid frame, rebuilt last year. New brake system, shoes, lines, master cylinder, wheel cylinders hoses. New Clutch and pressure plates, master and slave cylinders. New exhaust system and manifold. Rochester carb. Excellent interior, Trakkers high back seats in Moorland trim with matching cubby box, new headlining on tropical roof, new door interior panels with arm rests. dash has no cracks or holes. New door locks throughout and a heated rear window, Carpeted, Radio/cassette. New door tops and window channels throughout, the windows open, no moss !!! Has new lights all round and 90/110 reversing lamps with a high mounted 90/110 brake lamp. 90/110 door mirrors. Discovery steel wheels with 265/75 tyres. Original wheels with tyres available. Needs a paint job to finish. All documentation and receipts available. Asking $6000 Call Mark on 603-357-3401 or e-mail. Selling to fund 109 rebuild and buy a Defender 90 ------------------------------[ <- Message 32 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950823 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com> Date: 22 Aug 95 20:51:39 EDT Subject: Re: "Positive Ground" Rick, if they hooked up a Delcotron alternator to positive ground setup, it is hosed - they blew the regulator. The way these are typically done is that the batteery is turned around, and thealternator then installed as it should be. Make sure that you're not reading the setup wrong - it's easy to get confused and think it's still positive ground when it's been converted. I did mine, and it was a trivial change - replacing all the crappy battery cables was the real trick. Email me if you need help - Alan ------------------------------[ <- Message 33 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950823 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com> Date: 22 Aug 95 20:45:48 EDT Subject: Re: Sound dampening matting See, I can ANSwer questions, too...8*) The stuff you are looking for goes under several trade names, but the primary source of the brand-name stuff is 3M. it's called Dynamat, and the peel and stick roll of it I have here has a part # of 6211-0433 (4.33 sq. ft). There are several imitators made which are just as god. What this stuff does is to damp the resonant frequencies of the panel it's adhered. to. If you want this and other sound-dampening materials, you can either go to J.C. Whitney or to Crutchfield (the car stereo folks). 1-800-555-1212 should get you numbers for either or both - I don't have them handy. ------------------------------[ <- Message 34 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950823 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: 22 Aug 95 21:38:13 EDT From: compuserve <72647.2641@compuserve.com> Subject: Need Advice All right Land Rover people I need some help. I have located a 59-60 SWB truck in Maine.(the stupid part is I am in Tennessee) It has all the SW trim, jump seats, deluxe bonnet, safari top. The frame is slightly rusted but usable for several years after some welding. Needs new brake lines, no doubt. He has many trucks around so he hasn't had it started in a while. Needs footwell kits. Right now he wants $1600 for it, thats no work done as is. I need help on several things. He would probably let me use his welding shop so I might be able to patch the frame there. And probably replace the brake lines on site, if these things would make it drivable(to Tenn). I need to know a few things: anyhting about the frame I know nothing would it be feasable to drive it to Tennessee, it might be cheaper than shipping depending on what happens. Me and my friend that has a Land Rover could fly up there maybe do the repairs enough to get it home(easily, and slowly)if nothing too major is wrong are there any of you guys up there who would mind maybe helping me out if I buy it? Next time I call I will ask him to try to start it and ask him to send pictures. Thanks ahead of time, Will Cantrell ps I am a student so any thing above '72 BMW $200 is considered expensive '59 SWB SW(hopefully) ------------------------------[ <- Message 35 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950823 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: 22 Aug 95 22:16:47 EDT From: compuserve <72647.2641@compuserve.com> Subject: one more thing what exactly are the big and small differences between seriesII and IIA. If I get that Series II can I order parts that say they are for IIA? Thanks again, Will Cantrell ------------------------------[ <- Message 36 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950823 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 1995 22:32:25 -0500 From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice) Subject: Rover on camers Spent a hot day in front of the camera filming four more prologues/epilogues for the upcoming season of "Archaeology". The series is now broadcast in the UK under the title "Time Travelers". Seems British audiences objected to a non-PhD (John Rhys Davies) narrating a film on archaeology. Today, the Rover journeyed from Chile to Rome to France and back to Florida, all while staying within the confines of Seashore/First Landing State Park. John Rhys was his usual jovial self...he just came from the set of some boxing film where he plays a Cockney promoter "totally without redeeming values. Seems I've been typecast." Hardly. This man *knows* Land-Rovers. (He owns five.) He's been the only one to notice that the toe-in on mine needs adjustment and asked about camshaft grinds. Cheers *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----* | A. P. (Sandy) Grice | | Rover Owners' Association of Virginia | | 1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730 | | E-mail: rover@pinn.net Phone: 804-622-7054 (Day) | | 804-423-4898 (Evenings) FAX: 804-622-7056 | *-----------------------------------------------------* ------------------------------[ <- Message 37 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950823 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: 22 Aug 95 22:49:21 EDT From: Robert Dennis <73363.427@compuserve.com> Subject: Reply to 90 RR stalling John- I had the exact same problem a few months ago with my 90 RR. It would run fine except that it could not hold an idle from time to time. It finally got to the point that I could not stand it so I took it to Hennessey. It turned out that two of the emission hoses on the engine had cracks and were leaking. They were replaced and it has behaved ever since. Both of these hoses were quite expensive but what isn't at the dealer<g>. You might take a good look at all the lines on the engine to see if they have started to crack. Hope this helps. Rob Dennis Atlanta, GA USA 73363.427@Compuserve.com 22-Aug-1995 ------------------------------[ <- Message 38 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950823 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: LANDROVER@delphi.com Date: Wed, 23 Aug 1995 01:22:25 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: Need Advice Will Cantrell asks... > All right Land Rover people I need some help. I have located a 59-60 SWB > truck in Maine. (snip) The frame is slightly rusted. (snip) Needs new > brake lines, no doubt. He has many trucks around so he hasn't had it > started in a while. Needs footwell kits. / ..snip..... > He would probably let me use his welding shop so I might be able > to patch the frame there. And probably replace the brake lines on site, > if these things would make it drivable(to Tenn). > I need to know a few things: / > anyhting about the frame I know nothing / Sounds about right for a truck in the north-east. Things rust out up here. As a rule, they don't in Tenn, so be prepared for the worst. The big frame question is where is it rusted? Most parts can be replaced or patched. The really critical places are the front frame horns and the rear part of the frame where the rear cross member and rear springs attach. If the front horns are rusted badly enough to be weakened, the frame may break and it will be very difficult to tow the vehicle. If the rear of the frame is bad enough, the rear spring mounts could come loose. The rear cross-member on most trucks rusts and needs replacement, but usually the frame where the cross-member attaches is still fairly solid. The next thing that usually rusts out is the front outriggers. These are directly behind the front wheels and take quite a beating from road salt and gravel. You can still drive with the outriggers completely rusted away, but they should be replaced since they help support the bulkhead (firewall). The frame could also rust out any place dirt has been allowed to collect. The dirt will retain moisture and promote rusting. Hopefully, the only bad parts are the rear cross-member and the outriggers. As far as brakes go, the steel brake pipes may be rusted out and the hydraulics could be leaking. The same goes for the clutch. Also, depending on how long this Rover has been sitting, you could have other problems. Engine, transmission and steering componants could be suffering from dried out seals, lack of lubricants, etc. The tires could also be dry-rotted. > would it be feasable to drive it to Tennessee, it might be cheaper than > shipping depending on what happens. / Most shippers would probably prefer that the vehicle is running and has brakes. I could be wrong. (My brother used to transport privately owned vehicles from coast-to-coast and he had to drive the cars on and off his car hauler trailer.) You might want to consider borrowing or renting a tow bar or even a trailer and towing the Rover back. I flat towed my '65 Rover from Pittsburg - only about 400 miles - with almost no problems. (I borrowed a tow bar and tow vehicle - a VW Syncro.) I would say bring extra tires or tires mounted on Rover wheels if you can borrow some from your friend. Also, if you do tow, you may want to consider dropping the Rover drive shafts to reduce the amount of things spinning around. > are there any of you guys up there who would mind maybe helping me out if > I buy it? / If you're passing by this way, sure! > Next time I call I will ask him to try to start it and ask him to send > pictures. / Definately ask him to start it. $1600 for a Rover that won't run is just too much. Cheers Michael Loiodice E-MAIL landrover@delphi.com 166 W.Fulton St. VOICE (518) 773-2697 Gloversville NY, 12078 1965 Ser IIa 88 Petrol ("Sidney") 7 1972 Ser III 88 Petrol ("Fern") #:-}> 1971 Ser IIa 88 Petrol (Parts is Parts) ------------------------------[ <- Message 39 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950823 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: LANDROVER@delphi.com Date: Wed, 23 Aug 1995 01:22:00 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: "Positive Ground" Rick Crider is in the dark... > The previous owner changed from the old generator to a modern 12 volt 'one > wire' type alternator.......so.....here's the question: The PO ran the > 'one wire' to the Negative post on the battery.....is this correct? / Run away, run away! The alternator is probably a Delco, right? Chances are very good that the alternator is NOT wired for positive ground. To tell you the truth, I don't think such a beast can be found. The solution is to change back to a generator OR change the vehicle to negative ground. Very easy to do. 1. Disconnect the battery. 2. If you have an ammeter, remove the dashboard instrument panel and reverse the wires on the ammeter. Replace the panel. 3. Remove the voltage regulator from the bulkhead and "bypass" the wiring. The three heavy push-on connectors have to be wired together. The two lighter connectors with the insulators can be wired together. The remaining un-insulated connector should be taped off. 4. Connect the alternator output to the heavier wire in the original harness. 5. Re-connect the battery for negative ground. The alternator should now be connected to the POSITIVE battery terminal. In your case, you probably will want to check out the alternator. It may be fried since it was connected backwards. Hopefully, the PO bypassed the original voltage regulator. If not, you should. Also, you should disconnect the new wire (from the single terminal alternator) from the battery terminal and run it to the connection of the three wires where the voltage regulator was. By wiring the alternator directly to the battery, the ammeter will never show a charging condition, even though the alternator may in fact be charging the battery. > Even though the system itself is positive ground shouldn't the charging > wire from the alternator go to the Positive post of the battery anyhow? / *Only* if the truck has been re-wired for NEGATIVE GROUND. > Also, since the newer alternator has a built in regulator, the charge > indicator light on the dash no longer works.......haven't checked into > that any farther at this point. / I assumed you have an ammeter. If everything is wired correctly, the ammeter should show a charge/discharge condition. In the past, some people have suggested adding a voltmeter as a better indication of the alternator output. Others have suggested the original ammeter won't stand up to the new alternator output and you may need to replace the ammeter with a higher capacity unit. I have a Delco alternator in my '65 IIa and the original ammeter seems to work fine. Cheers Michael Loiodice E-MAIL landrover@delphi.com 166 W.Fulton St. VOICE (518) 773-2697 Gloversville NY, 12078 1965 Ser IIa 88 Petrol ("Sidney") 7 1972 Ser III 88 Petrol ("Fern") #:-}> 1971 Ser IIa 88 Petrol (Parts is Parts) ------------------------------[ <- Message 40 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950823 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 1995 22:43:53 -0700 (PDT) From: "Joseph V. Modarelli" <jvm@scs.unr.edu> Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest James Curtis was looking for some way to "unfreeze" metal parts there is a great prodduct for this that can ber found at most electronic shops, (use what you need where you find it) it's called DE-OX-ID (PN10-1906) made by GC electronics in Rockford, Illnois 61101 USA. I don't know if it is distributed overseas but worth a try, and just may keep you from burning yourself or whatrever. Apply it liberally ans let it soak in during dinner or longer then ...go! Joseph V. Modarelli Carson City, NEVADA "We are but seekers of the lamp of knowledge" jvm@scs.unr.edu ------------------------------[ <- Message 41 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950823 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST Input: messages 39 lines 1668 [forwarded 80 whitespace 401] Output: lines 1382 [content 827 forwarded 58 (cut 22) whitespace 387]
Back | Forward | |
---|---|---|
Photos & text Copyright 1990-2011 Bill Caloccia, All rights reserved. Digest Messages Copyright 1990-2011 by the original poster or/and Bill Caloccia, All rights reserved.
|