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From: hugh@nezsdc.fujitsu.co.nz
Date: Wed, 9 Aug 1995 22:53:30 +1200
Subject: Land Rover brakes and such...

:1) The brakes are terrible!! You have to pump 3-4 times to get anything 
:on the pedal.

Common enough.  Probably either worn brake shoes which need adjusting,
or very worn shoes which are past adjusting and need replacing.  You
say some of them can't be adjusted, so maybe those ones have worn down
too far.  Pull each brake drum in turn and make a visual inspection.
Measure the shoe lining thickness.  The minimum is supposed to be
1/32", although if the drums have been ground a few times in the past
and oversize shoes fitted then they may have to be replaced before
that.

While they're open also look for oil or brake fluid contamination.  If
there's oil you'd probably have to replace the axle oil seal, if brake
fluid then replace or overhaul the wheel cylinders.

:The previous owner noted that when you adjust the pedal 
:height bolt (on the front of the master cylinder bracket) it makes the 
:pedal quite firm, but the brakes drag and bind very quickly.

After setting up that bolt the first time you shouldn't have to
adjust it again.

:Also, I have no brake lights. 

Get the brakes adjusted first, and check the obvious - the brake lamp
bulbs.

:Will the 16" wheels rub at all when turning?

16" wheels were standard equipment on non-US models.  No problem.

:3) The steering box stiffening bracket is loose and it appears as though 
:the rear most bolt attaching it to the frame is stripped. What possible 
:repairs are available? When I turn the steering wheel, the fire wall 
:flexes slightly, which makes me nervous.

That'd make me nervous too.  If I'm thinking of the same bolts they
go right through the chassis rail, so should be easy enough to replace.
Do all three while you're down there.

-Hugh

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date:          Wed, 9 Aug 1995 06:36:02 GMT -0600
Subject:       Re: Land Rover brakes and such...

Rob Bailey writes:
> I'm a new Land Rover owner,
Snip
Welcome to Land Roverdom Rob. Sounds like you'll be learning quickly 
(or die in a crash).
Check out the LR FAQ.
Get a shop manual and *read it*. There are genuine LR, Haynes, and 
Autobooks, to name three.

> 1) The brakes are terrible!! You have to pump 3-4 times to get anything 
> on the pedal. The previous owner noted that when you adjust the pedal 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
> couldn't get 3 of the wheels to adjust properly). Also, I have no brake 
> lights. 

>From the way the old owner talks I'd suggest a complete brake system 
overhaul. Sounds as if (s)he was not into proper maint.
Ajust the pedal stop bolt correctly. Then you could try the 
obvious, bleeding the brakes. But probably it would be worthwhile (a 
guess since I haven't seen the LR) replacing all wearing parts from 
the MC to the shoes. That includes the flex hoses. Check the metal 
lines carefully for integrity. I know this sounds drastic, but most 
likely you'll have to do it sooner or later even if you rebuild some 
components. But you can check them out to see for sure. If they are 
fairly new (which I doubt given the condidtion of your brakes) you 
could try a rebuild. The shoes need only be replaced if they are oil 
fouled or worn. As for the adjusters, if they don't turn rebiuld kits 
may still be available. If they do and you can't get your shoes 
adjusted then I'd say you need new shoes (or drums).
On the brake light, get a multitester to locate the problem. The 
switch is on the 5-way connector on the right frame in the engine 
bay.

> 2) What is the top speed with 15" wheels? What is the top speed with 16" 
> wheels? Will the 16" wheels rub at all when turning? What is the maximum 
> allowable engine speed (for extended periods)?

If you're concerned about top speed I'd venture to say you should 
have bought something other than a LR. Suffice it to say LR's will 
meet the minimum speed requirements for interstates. I never take mine 
over 65. I haven't noticed much difference between 15 and 16, which 
don't rub if the stops are adjusted properly.
 
> 3) The steering box stiffening bracket is loose and it appears as though 
> the rear most bolt attaching it to the frame is stripped. What possible 
> repairs are available? 
Remove the bolt and put in a new one.

>When I turn the steering wheel, the fire wall  flexes slightly, which 
>makes me  nervous. 
It would me, too. A close examination a warranted.
Good luck & have fun. I hope you have a good sense of humor.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date:          Wed, 9 Aug 1995 06:38:21 GMT -0600
Subject:       Re: Rear axle swop (Bill L's reply)

>    Regards   Bill Leacock     Limey in exile.   ( owner of a 109 somewhere in
> the middle of the Atlantic )

Gee, I hope you have a raised air intake on it.
And I thought *I* used to get stuck.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date:  9 Aug 95  8:28:13 EDT
Subject: Re: Land Rover brakes and such...

Re: Frozen adjusters:

Atlantic British, I believe, had a special on adjusters this month for a 
reasonable
price. You may want to give them a call. They also have full rebuild kits that
contain the adjuster bits, cylinder bits and all the other goodies - but the 
kits
are a bit pricey.

      ajr

------------------------------

From: ROB@HARV-EHS.mhs.harvard.edu
Date: Wed, 09 Aug 1995 09:11:45 -0500 (EST)
Subject: LR exhibit in Mass?

Was admiring a canary (propor colo(u)r? D-90 in Cambridge (MA USA) the 
other day when the owner walked up......she told me there is going to be 
a landrover exhibit in the Brookline (Massachusetts USA) museum of 
transportation later this month (August)....Anyone know any more about 
it? Will they let me use the parking lot if I arrive in my oxidized land 
cruiser? Rob "LRO?....maybe someday" M Concord, MA USA 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 9 Aug 95 06:27:58 -0700
From: "Teriann J. Wakeman" <twakeman@apple.com>
Subject: Re:  Land Rover brakes and such...

Land Rover brakes can be an exciting subject.

step 1 adjust rear brakes.  Iyou can turn the adjuster 360 deg and not
lock the rear brakes, the rear brake shoes are on backwards and you need to
move the rear shoes to the front & the front to the rear.

step 2 Pull your brake drums & look at the shoes.  Oil means you need to replace
the shoes and oil seals.  leaky brake cylinders mean rebuild or replace.
If the flat head screws holding the drums on are bad, the LR places have
them and they are cheap.

If the cams are bad, you can replace them.  If the depressions in them are
worn out you can use a small grinder & make more.

Step 3  Adjust the brakes, front & back

Step 4 look at the rubber hoses.  poor condition swollen hoses can bulge
and help keep your brakes feeling mushy.  Replace as needed.

Step 5 look at your steel brake lines.  If they look badly rusted, replace.
I lost beakes from a pin hole, no fun but exciting!

Step 6 make sure the system is filled with DOT 5 brake fluid or DOT 4 brake
fluid.

Step 6 power bleed the brakes.  You can do it yourself with a Powerbleed
kit or many service stations have power bleeding outfits.  Land Rover brake
systems can keep bubbles in the line and sometimes you just need that
extra pressure to get them out.  Esp if you have the old style master
brake cylinder.

Step 7 Purchase a factory workshop manual set.  NOT the Haynes manual that 
has some errors.  Adjust thepedal linkage per the manual's directions.

Brakes can save your life, don't drive without them

TeriAnn

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 9 Aug 1995 09:37:32 -0400 (EDT)
From: Rick Grant <rgrant@cobra.synapse.net>
Subject: Corrosion holes

        What is the best way of dealing with corrosion holes in the
"aluminum" body?
        There are several spots in the fenders of my 59 II where
electrolytic action between the steel bolts and the fender have resulted in
greatly enlarged bolt holes.
        Is fitting an aluminum backplate over the area in question and
drilling a new hole acceptable?
        Is there any reason why the wheelsplash guards inside the fenders
have to be steel?  Mine have gone the way of all flesh and it would seem to
me a better idea to make them out of aluminum.
        When I reassemble the fenders. etc., should I be treating the
steel-aluminum interface somehow in order to reduce the eventual corrosion?

                                                                      Rick Grant

rgrant@cobra.synapse.net
Ottawa, Ontario, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 9 Aug 95 16:14:00 +0200
From: igor@tinet.ch (Igor Cerutti)
Subject: Gasket timing chain cover plate

Is it possible that the gasket from the timing chain from the Defender 200
Tdi is the same from that from Defender 300 Tdi ?
Tankyou
Distinti Saluti, kind regards, Mit freundlichen Gr=FCssen, Meilleurs=
 Salutations
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
---------
Real Name         : Igor Cerutti
Postal Adress     : c/o TINET SAGL
                    Centro Galleria 2, Via Cantonale
                    CH-6928 Manno-Lugano   (Switzerland)
Phone             : +41 (0)91 508118
Fax               : +41 (0)91 508119
E-Mail            : info@tinet.ch                    http://www.tinet.ch

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 9 Aug 95 16:33:28 +0200
From: igor@tinet.ch (Igor Cerutti)
Subject: Gasket timing chain cover plate

>To: Land-Rover-Owner@uk.stratus.com
>From: igor@tinet.ch (Igor Cerutti)
>Subject: Gasket timing chain cover plate
>Is it possible that the gasket from the timing chain from the Defender 200

Tdi is the same from that from Defender 300 Tdi ?
>Tankyou
>From: igor@tinet.ch (Igor Cerutti)
Distinti Saluti, kind regards, Mit freundlichen Gr=FCssen, Meilleurs=
 Salutations
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
---------
Real Name         : Igor Cerutti
Postal Adress     : c/o TINET SAGL
                    Centro Galleria 2, Via Cantonale
                    CH-6928 Manno-Lugano   (Switzerland)
Phone             : +41 (0)91 508118
Fax               : +41 (0)91 508119
E-Mail            : info@tinet.ch                    http://www.tinet.ch

------------------------------

From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date:  9 Aug 95 10:36:01 EDT
Subject: Re: Corrosion holes

Personal opinion... If this particular piece is going to
be stopping tree bits, rocks and other such things flung
in my general direction, steel seems like a better idea
than aluminium...

These panels are easy to fabricate out of heavy-gauge
galvanized steel. This is proof against further corrosion,
especially if the cut and drilled edges are treated with
cold galvanizing compound.

I just built a new one over the weekend for my driver's side
wing using common shop tools and a jigsaw with a metal-
cutting blade. I did the bending with a pair of 2 x 4 blocks
and a couple of C-clamps.

Considering I did the inner fender and a new steering box cover for
4 dollars worth of 16-gauge galvanized sheet metal, I consider
myself well ahead of the game.

Re: Aluminium corrosion:

In these cases I solder on a backer plate and redrill. Not much
else you can do, unless you're really good with a MIG welder.
The low-temp solders work well for this if you clean the surface
of both parts really well.

     Al R.

------------------------------

From: Andrew Grafton <A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk>
Subject: Dashboard Plugs !!
Date: Wed, 9 Aug 95 16:26:21 BST

I have just managed to erase a message from a chap wanting some 
plugs to fit in the dash of a SIII!

Please mail me again!

(sorry)

All the best,

Andy
A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk

 

------------------------------

From: "Roger Garnett" <rwg1@cornell.edu>
Date:          Wed, 9 Aug 1995 12:09:43 -5000
Subject:       Used Range Rover Ratings?

Hi folks-

I'm considering the possibly of a '87-89 Range Rover as a tow vehicle, with 
some winter, and other general use. The prices finally seem to be coming down 
to what I consider a reasonable range, which might make possible to replace my 
'77 Chevy Suburban. While the Chevy is quite a gas hog, is fully suited to the 
job of hauling my 18' enclosed trailer to the races. (Heavy duty tow package)

I'm familiar with the basic vehicle and specs (and I've got a '70
3500S sitting out back), but I'm looking for some current, pratical info. 
Can any one give me, or discuss:

-Buyers guide- good & bad points to look for, etc.
-Owner experiences-  running, maintaince level, fuel use, etc.
-Evaluation as a working/driving car, overall handling, use for towing, etc. 

Hope I'm not hitting FAQ territory here, but I couldn't find much on the
Rangie on the various Rover Webs. 

   ________
  /___  _  \    Roger Garnett            (Roger-Garnett@cornell.edu)
 /|   ||  \ \   Agricultural Economics  | The Wayward Sports Car Centre
| |___||  _  |  3 Warren Hall           | http://www.wayward.team.net/
| | \  |   | |  Cornell University      | 
 \|  \ |__/ /   Ithaca, N.Y. 14853-7801 | (607) 533-7735
  \________/    (607) 255-2522          | Safety Fast!

------------------------------

From: Jeff Gauvin <jeffg@minerva.ncrmicro.ncr.com>
Subject: RE: Copper Brake Lines
Date: Wed, 9 Aug 95 11:11:05 MDT

vortex@worldaccess.nl (Bert Palte) Says:

>>So on the one hand the US
>>contingent claim that copper is death-on-a-stick, but on the other hand
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 11 lines)]
>copper brake lines do not impose a problem in the old world  :-) 
>Bert Palte

With your smiley, I'm not sure if you're joking or not, but there
is truth to what you're saying! On a recent hiking trip in the
Bugaboos (British Columbia, Canada), every car in the parking lot
was wrapped with chicken-wire (I've got pictures to prove it!). The
explanation I was given was that porcupines like to chew up brake
lines and eat tires! I laughed, but wrapped my car anyway...

--
Jeffrey J. Gauvin		email: jeff.gauvin@symbios.com
Symbios Logic Inc.		Voice: 719-573-3563
1635 Aeroplaza Dr.		FAX: 719-573-3824
Colorado Springs, CO 80916

------------------------------

Date: 09 Aug 95 14:11:46 EDT
From: Robert Dennis <73363.427@compuserve.com>
Subject:  Disco engine prob; the Black Box #40???

I am not a DiscoDoctor, but the error code of 40 indicates that the left
engine bank was missfiring. At least that is what it indicates on the RR. This
could have been caused by your loose wire or something else. What you need to
do is clear the error code and see if another one shows up that might be more
informative. According to the shop manual, to clear the fault code:
 1. Switch ON ignition.
 2. Disconnect serial link mating plug, wait 5 seconds, reconnect.
 3. Switch OFF ignition, wait for main relay to drop out.
 4. Switch ON ignition.

 This should either leave the display blank (no more error codes) or show
additional error codes. If you get any others let me know and I will look them
up.

 p.s. How is Nashvegas. I graduated in '88(one of my favorite numbers <g>) and
haven't been back in a long time.

  E-mail from: Robert Dennis, 09-Aug-1995

------------------------------

From: Joe Manickam <JoeM@hesston.edu>
Date: Wed, 09 Aug 1995 14:35:00 -600

Hello all,

Being a newbie with Land Rover and internet,  I need some help and
advice.  I bought a 1963 109 PU about two months back.  It was bought
out in California and I drove it back to Kansas in about 35 hours straight
(no breakdowns but I did have to pull over to sleep for a couple hours)
so I can assume that it's in fairly stable condition.  It's stock condition for
the most part which has made it nice to work on.  I do, however, have
the following questions and could use most any advice offered:

1 - It has been converted to a negative ground system with a GM
alternator.  However the alternator bracket is very flimsy and currently
won't allow for belt tension adjustment.  Is there a bracket that will mount
right up to my 2.25 engine that will work well?
2 - What is a good replacement for the Smith heater that will work well
without having to sink money on a new Kodiak heater?
3 - How does one go about checking and topping off the oil level in the
front steering relay?  (the one down by the grill)
4 - I could use any tips on winterizing my vehicle.  It has spent most of its
life in Texas, Arizona and southern California.  In essence, how can I
keep myself from freezing inside the Rover this winter?  

Due to the fact that my wife loves me dearly but not my Land Rover
dearly, I need to find  the most economical way to fix it up. Therefore I
have a list of used parts that I would be interested in purchasing. They
are as follows:
1 - Good used heater that would be an improvement over the current
Smith unit.
2 - Good door tops.
3- A tropical roof for the PU cab.
4 - Side folding steps.
5 - A set of front seats.
6 -  Floor mats.
7 - Turn signal lever.
8 - Interior paneling (insulation).
9 - Seats for the bed.
10 - Hinged lids for the storage compartment in the rear bed seats.

That's it for now.  Thanks for all your help.  God Bless.

Shalom,  Joe Manickam
Land Rover, slow but sure.

JoeM@Hesston.edu
Hesston, Kansas
(316) 327-3137

------------------------------

Subject: Wrong book-110 Parts Catologue
From: dd@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (Dale Desprey)
Date: Wed, 09 Aug 95 14:00:18 -0500

I ordered some books from lro bookshelf and they sent me one book in 
error.  It was the Land Rover 110 parts Catologue (genuine).  My first 
instinct is to send it back to the UK.   Is there anyone in the US or 
Canada that wants one of these things.  I am simply looking for what I 
paid for it.  It is still sealed in original plastic bag.

--
Dale Desprey, dd@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Ottawa, Ont. |  Ottawa Valley Land Rovers

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 09 Aug 95 13:03:36
From: Andy Dingley <dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Copper brake lines

This is one that crops up regularly in rec.autos.tech. It involves 
airconditioning !

In the UK, you can't find brake-sized copper pipe, except as proper 
brake pipe from somewhere like Automech. It's a copper *alloy* with 
about 5% nickel, an perfect for brake pipes.

In the US, airconditioner pipe is widely available. Small, pure 
copper, work-hardens with vehicle vibration and cracks easily. 
Death-on-a-stick for brake pipes.

 
--
Andy Dingley                          dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk                                          

If all it takes is an infinite number of monkeys with typewriters, 
how come AOL haven't written any Shakespeare yet ?

------------------------------

Subject: LAND ROVER TOY NEWS
From: rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (Robin Craig)
Date: Wed, 09 Aug 95 19:38:27 -0500

3 Cliclacs gone, one tootsie toy gone

Robin

--
Robin Craig, rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Ottawa, Ont. |  Ottawa Valley Land Rovers

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 9 Aug 1995 21:51:39 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Francis J. Twarog" <ftwarog@moose.uvm.edu>
Subject: RIP Jerry

The events of today reminded me not to put off those things that I really 
want to do.  Case in point - although I saw the Jerry Garcia Band in 1990 
and hung out ticketless at a Dead show in '91, I never did get to see the 
Grateful Dead in concert (I suppose it's one of those "things" that 
poeple my age feel obligated to do) because I kept putting it off, saying 
maybe next time... Well, hopefully this will help remind me not to 
continue with that policy (like that trip out west in the Rover...)

Frank

------------------------------

From: jpappa01@interserv.com
Date: Wed, 9 Aug 95 19:53:00 PDT
Subject: Re: 	Extended warranties

RE: extended warranties 

noticed someone was interested in info on extended warrs. 18-month extended 
warr. avail. through Land Rover NA.

Also up to 4yrs/48K avail. through ITT. This continues factory warranty as 
long as purchased before the 3yr/42K original warranty *HAS NOT* expired.

Its not cheap butgives good peace of mind and if it saves you the cost of a 
major component failure - then it *IS* cheap!

cheerz
Jim 

------------------------------

From: Kelly Minnick <minnick@joker.chinalake.navy.mil>
Subject: Transfer case
Date: Wed, 9 Aug 95 20:00:25 PDT

RE: transfer case
I'm rebuilding a '65 transfer case.  I have a couple of questions about
the early LR workshop manual and the Haynes manual.  I'm trying to set the
end float on the High-gear that mounts to the rear output shaft.  This box
is a straight cut/helical box.  The book says that the end-float should
be .006-.008"  If it is not in this range, they recommend a new thrust
washer, then shaft and/or gear.  So, on this new shaft with a new thrust
washer ($25 US) and circlip, I measure .028" gap.  So, I decide I have to
have the gear. ($60)  I get the new gear and find out that it is .001" wider
than the old one in my hand. (1.497")  It's gap is .027" (funny).  So I 
looked into the SIII manual (latest and '73 edition) and find that it says
to press the circlip towards the gear and set the MINIMUM end-float.  Why
would you have a tolerance band (.006-.008") on the minimum float?  and what
about the max. float?  Can it be 2 inches?  Could it be they screwed up?
And get this.  All new parts, the end float measures .010" (using the SIII
method).  With new parts, it is not in this tolerance 'band'.  They should
set a max and min...  So, what does everyone do out there?
Inquiring minds want to know...
Kelly Minnick  '73 88" Safari & '91 RR
Ridgecrest, CA

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 9 Aug 1995 19:07:29 -0700
From: Roger Sinasohn <sinasohn@crl.com>
Subject: Re: 109" prices in UK, 109" junker?

> series II and III 109's in "top running order" for 1,100-1,500
> pounds!!!
> It costs $600-800 to ship, I guess.  Gee, it seems like a good deal!

Maybe a bunch of us in the states should get together and rent a cargo ship 
and bring a bunch over?

My brother is also looking for a 109".  Perhaps the two of you could get a 
quantity discount on shipping?

---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Uncle Roger                         "There is pleasure pure in being mad
sinasohn@crl.com                                that none but madmen know."
Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
San Francisco, California

------------------------------

From: LANDROVER@delphi.com
Date: Thu, 10 Aug 1995 00:12:38 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Land Rover brakes and such...

Rob Bailey asks...
 
> 1) The brakes are terrible!! You have to pump 3-4 times to get anything 
> on the pedal. The previous owner noted that when you adjust the pedal 
> height bolt (on the front of the master cylinder bracket) it makes the 
.....
> couldn't get 3 of the wheels to adjust properly). Also, I have no brake 
> lights. 
/

Could be lots of things. The adjusters are probably worn. They can be
replaced. The brake shoes are probably worn. The brake drums may also have
been "turned" at some point. You may also have air in the brake hydraulics.
One thing at a time here.
No brake lights could be a broken switch or broken wires. The brake light
switch is hydraulically operated and is mounted on the right-hand frame
rail, just in front of the bulkhead. If you can disconnect the two wires
from the switch, and then connect the wires together you will be able to
test the lights without the switch. (You have to turn on the ignigtion key)
If the brake lights come on, then your brake light switch is faulty. If not,
then check the lamps, the wiring at the back of the truck or the connection
for the rear harness - which is close to the brake light switch. Hopefully,
all the wires are intact!
Having to pump the brakes usually means that there is air in the lines. You
will have to bleed the brake lines to clear that up. If this hasn't been
done in a while, there is a chance that the bleeder valves may snap off.
If that happens, you can replace the valves, but it is usually better to
replace the wheel cylinders. If you have to bleed the complete system - for
example if you replace the master cylinder - you may need to use a pressure
bleeder. It's a real pain in the arse to do it without one. 
Worn brake shoes and/or drums will result in a "low" brake pedal - since
the shoes have to move further outwards to contact the drums. 
No.. you don't want to fiddle with the adjustment on the front of the master
cylinder support. That sets the pedal height. There is also an adjustment on
the master cylinder pushrod (which you probably should check) that allows
for some free play in the pedal. Without the free play, the master cylinder
doesn't work right and could result in you having to pump the brakes.
    
> 2) What is the top speed with 15" wheels? What is the top speed with 16" 
> wheels? Will the 16" wheels rub at all when turning? What is the maximum 
> allowable engine speed (for extended periods)?
/

15" wheels - slow. 16" - faster. Ok, Ok.. I can cuise at 60MPH with 16"
wheels. With the 15" wheels, 55MPH seemed a bit much. I have done 65MPH
with the 15" wheels but the engine was just screaming! If you go from 15" to
16" the tires will probably rub at full lock. There is a stop adjustment for
the swivel balls to prevent this. Maximum engine speed? When it sounds like
the pistons are ready to go airborn you're probably going too fast! It all
depends on what condition your engine is in.  Going from 15" to 16" wheels
will also make your speedometer read off.

 
> 3) The steering box stiffening bracket is loose and it appears as though 
> the rear most bolt attaching it to the frame is stripped. What possible 
> repairs are available? When I turn the steering wheel, the fire wall 
> flexes slightly, which makes me nervous.
/

Replace the bolt?? What condition is the firewall in? Is your steering very
stiff? Jack up the front of the truck and support it on axel stands. Turn
the steering wheel. It should move freely. Check the oil level (90Wt) in the
steering box and steering relay and swivel balls. The track rod ends (6 of
them) may have dried out too. Also, on your truck, there is a bakelite or
phenolic bushing in the top of the steering column, That can dry out which
makes it hard to turn the wheel. You can oil the bushing, but it isn't easy. 

Cheers
  Michael Loiodice       E-MAIL   landrover@delphi.com              
  166 W.Fulton St.       VOICE    (518) 773-2697                    
  Gloversville                                                      
  NY, 12078              1965 Ser IIa 88 Petrol ("Sidney")      
              7          1972 Ser III 88 Petrol ("Fern")
           #:-}>         1971 Ser IIa 88 Petrol (Parts is Parts)

------------------------------

From: WILSONHB@ctrvax.Vanderbilt.Edu
Date: Thu, 10 Aug 1995 00:27:11 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

j"	$yq}3.1EoO%sK$d
-
vC!-I0{

------------------------------

From: JWootton@eworld.com
Date: Thu, 10 Aug 1995 00:21:05 -0700
Subject: In for a penny...

...in for a pound!  Announcing the beginning of the beginning. Folly ( the
name of my 88", not the project) is now in pieces, some good, some bad, some
labelled, some not, and awaiting her new galvanized frame from across the
pond. In the same box will be every other little thing that I've either
ruined in taking it off, or which fell off when I glanced at it sideways. New
frame, new floor, new firewall ( or at least a new old one), new paint, new
brakes, new harness. The list of parts on the order sheet is too long by a
page!!

I have requisitioned the Canadian weather service to skip winter this year,
so I shouldn't have any indoor/outdoor problems.

With your good wishes and advice along the way it should be a piece of cake,
right?......right????
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
---------------
John Wootton, Shawville, Quebec
1974 Series III SWB hardtop
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
---------------
PS: I will be travelling to Ireland next week and will be in the Shannon
area. Anyone know of a LR dealer there?

------------------------------

  END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST 
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Photos & text Copyright 1990-2011
	Bill Caloccia, All rights reserved. 

Digest Messages Copyright 1990-2011 by the original poster or/and
	Bill Caloccia,
	All rights reserved.