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From: Andrew Grafton <A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk>
Subject: Springs (again)
Date: Mon, 7 Aug 95 10:29:14 BST

Have just fitted new springs to both out LWB SIII 109" diesels.

Fitted handed springs on the rear and 400 miles later the vehicles
still sits almost level with a driver in (slightly up to the 
right in fact - by 1/2 inch!).

The interesting thing is that due to an order mess-up, we got 
two driver's side front springs from the British Spring Co. and
a drivers/passengers side front pair from (can't remember) another
manufacturer.  The British Spring Co's springs were more
'arced' prior to fitting - i.e. when placed beside the other
new ones they formed a higher, shorter bridge shape.

We fitted the handed pair to one vehicle and the two driver's
side ones to the other. 

The vehicle with the handed pair sits 'correctly', level at the 
front and with the bottom of the front bumper 50cm (near as dammit) 
off the floor with michelin XCL 7.50 R 16's fitted.

The other vehicle also sits level, but the bumper is 4cm higher off the 
floor (same tyres and vehicles - no extra gear fitted yet).  The vehicles
have been run around and had shackles loosened/tightened etc. so
the springs aren't just brand new.

I'm not complaining, 'cause the vehicle that sits high is having 
a winch and (don't ask) snowplough mounting fitted, along with
a load of other gubbins.  It just looks a bit odd next to the 
other one.

The part numbers match up, etc etc. Can anyone explain the differences?
Is it just down to a manufacturer's preferences, or is there a spring
out there stiffer than a 109" diesel that has been numbered up wrong

for by fitting two of one side to the front...

As an aside, the difference in arc height of the driver's and passenger's
fronts prior to fitting was about 3/8".  The difference in arc height
between the strange front springs and the tallest of the more usual ones
was about 1.5".  Difference in arc height between the HD rears (driver 
and passenger) was about 1".

Bye for now and all the best,

Andy
A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk

'
looking a bit .

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 Aug 1995 12:19:46 +0100
From: bbourke@iol.ie (Brendan Bourke)
Subject: Disc. gear box

I have a rattle in the gearbox of my Disc. It is the new type
gearbox/transfer box

                1  3  5   |---L
                |--|--|  Diff-|
                2  4  R   |---H
                                
If someone witha similag type gearbox cpold the following

        - Put transfer box in neutral
        - Move the main box through the gears, without using the clutch
        - Listen for any rattles/noise coming from the gearbox.

My dealer says that this is normal - doesn't sound normal to me

Also there is a noise when changing gear that seems to be coming from the
clutch/thrust bearing - but I have just had a new clutch unit fitted - 500 miles

Brendan

------------------------------

Subject: Military rovers for sale
From: rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (Robin Craig)
Date: Mon, 07 Aug 95 06:45:51 -0500

A have just been handed a snapshot of a series 2a left hand drive 
military ambulance for sale in Alberta. if the information to hand is 
coorect there are two of them in Calgary in a used vehicles dealers yard.

The one I am looking at looks very straight and un dattered body wise. 
Has XCL's all round and is in British Army colours.

Beleive he is looking for about $5,500 CDN aprox. 

Can any of our western Canadian cousins throw any more light on these?

rgds

Robin Craig

--
Robin Craig, rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Ottawa, Ont. |  Ottawa Valley Land Rovers

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date:          Mon, 7 Aug 1995 07:25:18 GMT -0600
Subject:       Re: newbie still looking for 109, 88 found...

Walter Swain writes:
> >>>>> Jan Ben writes:
> > I am still looking for a 109 SW or 2-door.  Will see 1 or 2 this weekend.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> > both in terms of $ and as trading chips for a 109" :)
> > (I'd consider the $ as the intermediate form of 88->109 morphing, anyway).
Snip
> frames, get under and look, with a hammer, flashlight and screw driver in 
> hand. 
Snip

I've found that a weldor's chipping hammer works great. The pointed 
end is very good at finding weak spots. Although some people might 
object to you punching a hole through a rusty frame, I object to 
unwittingly buying a rusted out frame.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date:          Mon, 7 Aug 1995 07:32:42 GMT -0600
Subject:       Re: Power Brake diaphram

David Place writes:
> Has anyone tried to replace the diaphram in the power brake unit?  It 
> shows this being done in some auto books but I don't seem to see anything 
> in Haynes or workshop manual. Mine has a pin hole in it I think.  Has anyone 
Snip

To the best of my limited knowledge only the six cyl. servo is 
rebuildable, and those kits were discontinued some time back. I 
bought the last two DAP had around '82. Maybe someone else is making 
them now, I don't know. The 4cyl diaphram was not available 
seperately.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date:          Mon, 7 Aug 1995 07:35:00 GMT -0600
Subject:       Re: American Source for Flaring Tool?

 
> On Fri, 4 Aug 1995, Tom Rowe wrote:
> > DO NOT USE COPPER FOR BRAKES.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 11 lines)]
> 	have seen installed on LandRovers just come apart.  Vibration
> 	seems to be a killer with them...

Dixon,
I've used copper coated I bought from NAPA with good success.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date:          Mon, 7 Aug 1995 07:52:51 GMT -0600
Subject:       Re: Misc Questions

John Putnam writes:
Snip
> The Weber filter seems to severly
> restrict air flow to the carb even when it is clean ( and it is very hard to
> keep it clean ).

John,
No help on the oil bath, but perhaps on the element type. I had the 
smallish oval filter on mine, about 6x3x 1 1/2 high. That seemed 
restrictive to me, although according to the Weber manual it wasn't. 
Anyway, I got one the same size, only about 4 inches high instead, bought some 
metric threaded rod and replaced the studs to accept the deeper 
filter. I use a K&N that I can wash out.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date:          Mon, 7 Aug 1995 08:01:01 GMT -0600
Subject:       Re: Copper brake lines

> Dixon Kenner wrote:
> > On Fri, 4 Aug 1995, Tom Rowe wrote:
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 18 lines)]
> o
> it myself.
 Hugh,
I'm very supprised. Most reputable repair shops won't touch anything 
these days that could result it a rather large lawsuit. Since copper 
is quite dangerous to use for brakes, they might be subject to such 
action. You were lucky to find them. That's assuming your brakes don't 
fail. If they do, then I guess you were *unlucky* to find them.
 

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Aug 1995 07:49:15 -0600
From: mmurphy@evolving.com (Mark Murphy)
Subject: First Impressions of a New Discovery

Well, I finally did it. Bought a `95 Discovery (7/26) - white 5spd cloth 
interior. Currently have 632 miles on the vehicle. The first ~600 miles 
were easy cruising at 55 mph on the flat roads around Denver. After the 
first 235.5 miles and 100 degree weather (A/C on!), put in 12.509 gallons 
of gas for 18.8 mpg. After 439.3 miles and again 100 degree weather (A/C 
on!), put in 11.389 gallons for 17.9 mpg. After 604.1 miles, 75-80 degree 
weather (A/C on for maybe 10 minutes out of the 2+ hours of driving) and 55 mph for the first 125 and 65 mph on the way home - 7.898 gallons of gas for
20.9 mpg. Gas guage does seem to be linear (not alot to do during some of
these breakin trips so tried to guess/calculate gas milage).

On Sunday afternoon, decided to change the oil. John Friedman's comments
were right on the money. 30mm wrench looks close but wiggles, the 1 1/8"
wrench fit perfectly (is the oil plug metric?). Bought some extra rags
and used them! Based on John's input, I bought a painter's 5 gallon bucket
and cut it down trying to leave one area higher to act as a diverter.
Almost worked! Most of the oil went into the bucket but still spilled a
cup or two. Diverter is not quite wide enough, unfortunately can't build
it wider and still get it under the vehicle. Put the passenger side on
a jack stand to give a more downward flow - think this help but also
caused a backward angle (diverter didn't reach far enough). Saw a "pee
like diverter" plastic funnel at Pep Boys - will buy and try it next time
and see if I can make a smaller mess. May also buy a metal pan to put
under the vehicle while draining the oil (plug and filter). Sears makes
a solution which I have had good luck with to remove oil stains from cement.Will need to get some! The Fram PH8A filter fits perfectly. According to 
Fram (didn't have '95 numbers, but for the '94), the correct filter is HP1. The HP1 diameter, rubber gasket and threads matched up perfectly to the 
PH8A but was about an inch-plus longer. Probably will give "more" 
filtration but I want to check if the extra length will hang down too far.

While I was under the vehicle, took a quick look. Tar sealant everywhere.
In the hot weather, a little "tar" has dripped onto my driveway. No
oil leaks. Everything looked solid and tight. 

Washed the Disco to remove all the highway bugs off the front. (Anybody
know of/recommend a company that make a bug shield/air deflector
specifically for the Disco.) Noticed brake dust on all four rims but
not much. Brakes squeaked for a few moments when driving after the
washing but has not re-occurred.

I have a Recaro SE front bucket seat in my '87 Ford Bronco. As nice as
the seats are in the Disco and considering the SE is Recaro's most basic
seat, I am seriously considering putting the old Ford seat back into the
Bronco and putting the SE into the Disco. The seat is substantially more
comfortable. The side support is MUCH better. The air bladder in the SE
gives more lumbar support than the Disco. (These comments are based on the
3 four hours trips I took to put the 600 breakin miles.)

Overall - I love it. Smooth quiet ride, excellent handling and a fantastic
sound system. During my first 400 miles with 100 degree weather, I never
needed to run the A/C with the recirculating switch on and typically turned
down the temperature one blue block. Brought two Keeshonds on the trips
with me, one up front and one in the rear - considering their long hair,
neither seemed uncomfortable with the above settings (don't have the rear
A/C). Will try some serious Colorado Rocky Mountain 4 wheeling sometime
in the next couple of weeks and post my impressions.

Have seen the comments that the Land Rovers "will name themselves" and
thought "Ya, right". Well on the last breakin run, was thinking about a name
and considering it is a white Disco the name "ghost" popped came to mind.
Within a few minutes, my mind had wandered elsewhere and the name was
forgotten. I had previously told my wife about how the digest entry signatures
typically had the owners name followed by their vehicle's name.  Saturday
afternoon, out of the blue, she asked if I had come up with a name and without
any prompting from me, mentions that the name ought to be "something ghost"
since just "ghost" didn't sound quite right. Well, looks like the Disco is
almost named. I am sure "she" will let us know in good time! Many of the
4X4 roads in Colorado go to old mines and "ghost towns", maybe after our
4 wheeling trip we will know her complete name.

Mark Murphy
mmurphy@evolving.com

------------------------------

From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date:  7 Aug 95  9:58:43 EDT
Subject: Re: Copper brake lines

Hold it a minute, guys. Are we talking about soft plumbing copper
here or cupronickel alloy? If the former, hell I don't even use it for
AIR in my shop. If we're talking about hard copper-nickel alloy, this is 
aircraft
stuff - I'd have no problem with it except for cost - it's quite a bit more 
expensive
than steel.

     ajr

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date:          Mon, 7 Aug 1995 09:08:59 GMT -0600
Subject:       Re: Copper brake lines

Ala Richter writes:
> Hold it a minute, guys. Are we talking about soft plumbing copper
> here or cupronickel alloy?

Having been a weldor/pipefitter, I generally call metal what it is. So by 
"copper" *I* was refering to the soft copper used in plumbing. That's 
why I differentiated between that and copper coated steel lines. As 
for what others were talking about, I could only assume it was the 
same. For those with copper colored tubing and aren't sure what you 
have, if it bends easily, get rid of it. It's soft copper for 
plumbing, *not* for brakes.
Happy braking,

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Aug 1995 07:59:02 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jim Russell <jrussell@netcom.com>
Subject: Weber 2 bbl and oil bath...

John Putnam...

Because I had always found the Weber's stock open gauze air filter very
vulnerable to water and mud, things often found off road, I converted back
to using the oil bath filter on my '66 2.25 88 about two weeks ago.

I used a Weber intake adaptor for a Datsun (available in the US from
British Pacific and possibly others).  I used the stock air elbow and hose
to the oil bath and fabricated a rubber adaptor ring to fit between the
carb's air intake adaptor and the stock elbow.  All in all, it made for a 
very neat and Land-Rover looking installation.  Now a single run through 
mud or water won't fill up the gauze filter causing sudden breathing 
problems.

But, while the jury is still out, I have the feeling that this arrangement
is somewhat more restrictive to air flow than the open gauze filter when
the second bbl opens up.  Or to put it another way, there is certainly no
obvious improvemet in performance and there seems to be a degredation and 
significant hesitation when you put the throttle all the way down.

For reference, the intake opening on the carb adaptor is just under 3" 
while the oil bath and carb elbow are 2-1/2".

As I say, the jury is still out because there could be a number of other
factors involved.  One is that the carb would probably like a rebuild. 
Another, this is all on a 200K+ mile daily driver/only car engine that
hasn't been touched other than for the top end (shaved to 8:1 and Stellite
valves) about four years ago.  I continually refuse to check the
compression based on the theory that there are things you just don't
really wan't to know (like, never read the list of ingredients after you
have started to eat whatever it is because it suddenly might not taste
quite as good). 

I'd be very interested in hearing your experience if you make the change 
back to the oil bath.  My current plan is to leave it this way at least 
for now since I already have a lifetime of projects to do on this vehicle 
(and I've already had it nineteen years).

                  Jim Russell   ====   jrussell@netcom.com
                         (Seattle -- San Francisco)            

------------------------------

From: Haas <marcus@dcs.qmw.ac.uk>
Subject: @!#%$&* Steering Relay...
Date: Mon, 7 Aug 1995 16:23:04 +0000 (BST)

Having finally started the long-planned rebuild of my 1970 LWB Station Wagon
(well, I've started dismantling it, which may not amount to the same thing...), can I get the steering relay out?  Can I hell!

Copious amounts of penetrating oil, coupled with the entire weight of the front end of the vehicle bearing on the bottom of the shaft have not budged it even 1mm, and yes, I have removed the securing flange!

Has anyone any experience of removing obstinate relays?

Yours in desparation,

Marcus

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Aug 95 11:54:39 EDT
From: jib@big.att.com (Jan Ben)
Subject: 109" prices in UK, 109" junker?

Hello,

I am still looking for that 109"
(thanks to many who replied with leads on 109's).

I just got hold of a british 4x4 market newsletter.
Reading the first page of LR ads I found a bunch of
series II and III 109's in "top running order" for 1,100-1,500
pounds!!!
It costs $600-800 to ship, I guess.  Gee, it seems like a good deal!

In light of that information, and several other possible schemes,
I could make do with a basketcase parts 109", as long as it has
a decent body and a title :)

Do you know of one?  The worse mechanically it is, the better...

Thanks for your patience - I'll stop as soon as I find one.

Jan

----- End Included Message -----

------------------------------

Date: 07 Aug 95 12:05:36 EDT
From: Mark Talbot <71035.3215@compuserve.com>
Subject: The 109

All,

Well, the offers that came flooding in for the 109 soon dried up to nothing,
same as normal, lots of talk, want to see it ASAP, offers over the phone,
appointments made and then no shows. 

Anyway, I have decided to restore/refuribish it, give me something to do over
the winter ! 

I have already got the rear axle stripped down to refurbish the brakes, pipes,
and hub seals. I have the petrol tank out and the rear crossmember is cut out
ready for a new one.  This stuff is fun !

I tried out the electrics and after being dormant since the mid 80's the
headlights came on, flashers worked, and the Kodiak heater cranked up. I have
even got the orginal "Rover" winch running ! SLOWLY. 

Anyone know of a source for the "ELEPHANT hide" material found on the early
models, the rear bench seat had been eaten by and family of squirels, there are
acorns EVERYWHERE !! 

BTW, I fitted copper pipes to my SIII, I have had no problems at all .

Mark 

------------------------------

Date: 07 Aug 95 12:05:37 EDT
From: Mark Talbot <71035.3215@compuserve.com>
Subject: new Address

All, 

I'm just posting this for those that have been trying to contact me. I had to
change over my Internet address last week, work related, anyone need to contact
me, here Iam.

Mark 

------------------------------

Subject: spare magazines for swaps
From: rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (Robin Craig)
Date: Mon, 07 Aug 95 10:38:39 -0500

I have been sorting through my Land Rover material, kind of like paint 
ing the Forth bridge (limey joke) really. 

Anyhow, I have the following original copies of Land Rover Owner and Land 
Rover World extra, but also below is what I'm missing in my collection. 
Would anyone who has any they can swap let me know. 

Have extra:-
LRO  OCT 89, Jun 90, March 91 a bit ratty at the edges, Jun 91, Jan 92,
Sept 93,
Dec 94 two copies.   

Land Rover World issues eight and twelve extra

also I have May Jun 94 Carguide, canadian mag, with article by Jim Kenzie 
on Disco and La Ruta Maya. Also May 89 Classic and sportscar with article 
on classic series one Land Rovers.

I need the following:-

LRO Aug 90, Apr 91, Jly 91, Dec 91, Jun 92, May 93, Aug 93,

Land Rover World four, five, nine, ten.

TTFN

Robin Craig

--
Robin Craig, rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Ottawa, Ont. |  Ottawa Valley Land Rovers

------------------------------

Subject: magazines for swaps
From: rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (Robin Craig)
Date: Mon, 07 Aug 95 10:59:30 -0500

Hi there y'all again. I told you this sorting out job was a never ending 
thing.

WEll I just found a bunch more issues of LRO spares:-

Jan 94 Feb 94, March 94, Jun 94, May 94, Sept 94, Oct 94, Nov94,

and I need:- Nov 93 and Dec 93 aswell.

TTFn

Robin

--
Robin Craig, rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Ottawa, Ont. |  Ottawa Valley Land Rovers

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 Aug 95 09:39:59 MST
From: DEBROWN@SRP.GOV
Subject: Vacuume diaphram...

FROM:  David Brown                           Internet: debrown@srp.gov
       Computer Graphics Specialist * Mapping Services & Engr Graphics
       PAB219 (602)236-3544 -  Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486
SUBJECT: Vacuume diaphram...
David, if you find out, could you please let me know too? I have a
leaking diaphragm too. Does this mean that the LR birth control system
is not working? ;-) Maybe I'll have baby LR's running around here???
Anyone know the gestation period for a LR?

FYI, I called around and found a place that rebuilds vacuum boosters,
but they "couldn't" provide the diaphragm, and could only rebuild it if
I provided them the rebuild kit. (no diaphragm in the kit available from
RN.) Lots of help they are!

Thanks,

Dave (big vacuum sound when braking-with MUCH effort, and getting a
strong right leg) Brown

#=======#                Never doubt that a small group of individuals
|__|__|__\___            can change the world... indeed, it's the only
| _|  |   |_ |}          thing that ever has.
"(_)""""""(_)"                                          -Margaret Mead

------------------------------

Subject: Re: Weather band on US Discovery 
Date: Mon, 07 Aug 1995 13:52:27 -0400
From: "Jeff Young" <young@mci.net>

i live in dayton, MD and can pick up WB1-4 on a 93 RR.

i would expect it's a similar radio?

Jeff Young
young@mci.net

> Return-Path: LRO-Owner@uk.stratus.com
> Received: from transfer.stratus.com (transfer.stratus.com [134.111.1.10]) by postoffice.reston.mci.net (8.6.12/8.6.6) with ESMTP id TAA11230 for <young@mci.net>; Sun, 6 Aug 1995 19:55:03 -0400
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 35 lines)]
> garym@racalrecord.com
> N3JPU

------------------------------

Date: 07 Aug 95 18:20:13 EDT
From: Mark Talbot <71035.3215@compuserve.com>
Subject: Axle casing swaps 

all, 

does anyone know if a rear axle casing from either a SIIA 88 or a SIII 88 fit a
109 SIIA ? I know that the rear shocker mounts are attached to the casing, they
can be cut out and reattached, anyone know if there are any other differences. 

Mark 

------------------------------

From: Andy Dingley <dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Right stick rod for sheetmetal?
Date: Wed, 01 Mar 1995 23:53:39 GMT

phnxbmed@ix.netcom.com (Charles Hokanson) wrote:

>>I'm in the process of finishing up my Land-Rover ('64 model 109) and
>>I need a bit of welding advice. 

You can do chassis members with a stick welder, but for the door
frames you ought to either be a much better stick welder than I am, or
use gas/Mig instead.

Chassis member need either a large DIY / trade Mig and >= 0.8mm wire,
or a stick welder. A small DIY Mig will require several passes to form
a reasonably sized fillet, and unless this is done well there is a
risk of voids and slag inclusions. For a chassis weld in an off-road
vehicle, these are likely to cause problems.

> If memory serves, the Land Rover has an aluminum cab, 

Land Rovers aren't aluminium, they're BirmaBright, a proprietary alloy
of aluminium and magnesium. For most practical purposes they're much
the same, but it does make a difference for welding.

It's like aluminium, but even more so. It work hardens more easily,
it's more important to anneal it when working it cold, it's more
corrosion resistant, and it's harder to weld.

When working aluminium alloys, a useful annealing trick is to wipe the
cleaned panel with liquid handwashing soap, then heat it with a gentle

propane flame until the soap blackens. Don't over-anneal it -- this is
called *melting* it, and is to be avoided !

You *must* use the right rods to gas weld it; either 5% Mg/Al
(Sifalumin No. 27) and either the Sifbronze flux for this rod, or a
suitable acid flux. An alternative rod is a piece of spare Al
bodywork! Use a *small* reducing flame, to avoid damaging the panel.
After welding, scrub the panel with water to remove corrosive flux
residues.

The officially recommended brand of flux (according to my Range Rover
Repair Ops Manual) is The Midland Welding Supply Co.'s "Hari Kari"
brand. I am *not* joking about the name !

--
Andy Dingley                          dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk                                          

If all it takes is an infinite number of monkeys with typewriters, 
how come AOL haven't written any Shakespeare yet ?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Aug 1995 19:39:09 -0700
From: Roger Sinasohn <sinasohn@crl.com>
Subject: Re: Ivory Soap in your toolbox??

> A friend of mine recently told my wife that since I drive a 32+ year
> old Landrover that I should carry a bar of Ivory soap in my toolbox.

I have a (non-rover) friend who told me the story of the time he found himself 
in San Francisco, at about 2am on a Saturday night, at a Gas Station downtown, 
with a gas leak.  So he called his brother in Marin (North, across the Golden 
Gate Bridge) and asked him to meet him and to bring a bar of soap.

Now, mind you, I've been an Ivory girl for years, but if a guy called me up 
and asked me to meet them at a gas station in the city at 2am on a Saturday 
night, and told me to bring a bar of soap, I'd have said No Way!  I'm just 
*not* that kind of boy!  8^)

---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Uncle Roger                         "There is pleasure pure in being mad
sinasohn@crl.com                                that none but madmen know."
Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
San Francisco, California

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Aug 1995 19:37:50 -0700
From: Roger Sinasohn <sinasohn@crl.com>
Subject: Re: advertising ettiquette for this list?

Pierce had some good ideas...
> Perhaps we can put together a quick Advertising etiquette guideline to put
> in the FAQ?

Only thing I could think of to add would be to be sure you want to sell 
something, or indicate that you're only thinking about it.  And, when 
responding, indicate your true level of interest.  (i.e., "I've got the bucks 
burning a hole in my pocket; how much?" vs. "Can't afford it any time soon, 
but just out of curiosity, how much?"). 

---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Uncle Roger                         "There is pleasure pure in being mad
sinasohn@crl.com                                that none but madmen know."
Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
San Francisco, California

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Aug 1995 19:38:12 -0700
From: Roger Sinasohn <sinasohn@crl.com>
Subject: Re: Antipodean Auxiliary Tanks

> (Australia) '75 SIII 88".  This clearly shows two fuel tank fillers: one in
> the normal right hand position and one in the same position on the left 
 
> Does anyone know if the arrangement on Brian's Rover was generally available

Dunno if it's original, but my 88" has the same arrangement.  (Although one 
filler is not hooked up, so I suspect it may be a later addition.)

---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Uncle Roger                         "There is pleasure pure in being mad
sinasohn@crl.com                                that none but madmen know."
Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
San Francisco, California

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Aug 1995 23:09:11 -0400 (EDT)
From: Rick Grant <rgrant@cobra.synapse.net>
Subject: Series II electrics

        I'm in the process of getting a 59 Series II road worthy and at the
moment I'm wrestling with such a tangled web of adapted, changed, rotted,
and confused wiring that I'm beginning to think that this vehicle should be
christened either Medusa or Hydra.
        Is stripping everything out and rewiring for negative earth a
practical venture?  If not, what is necessary in order to install a negative
earth components such as a radio? Is that even possible?  Are there any
books or other resources that would help?
        On a different matter, I see that the right front wheel has a
perceptible cant outward from the top compared to the left.  The Haynes
manual is silent on the point so I'd like some idea whether this condition
indicates an expensive order to a parts supplier or whether it can be
corrected through some adjustment or other.

                

                                                                      Rick Grant

rgrant@cobra.synapse.net
Ottawa, Ontario, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Aug 1995 00:18:57 -0400 (EDT)
From: Steven M Denis  <denis@oswego.Oswego.EDU>
Subject: Flares

The bubble flare tools are available from Snap-On for $86 US...seems that 
I know this 'cause I bought an IVECO truck that uses 6mm (1/4 in.) Bubble 
flares...and ain't *nobody* got them in stock.. so I can flare with the 
best of 'em now..paid about 20 bucks for a so-so double flare tool a 
while back....both work well, with the bubble needing less prep work on 
the line to do...
BTW the Iveco is set up for copper lines for the European 
market...*plenty* of supports to prevent vibration...but *no* protecton 
form mud and road salt..the clutch line actually runs up the inside of 
the front wheel arch...*all* the lines were shot.....
steve......

"HEY! NICE JEEP,MISTER!"..........."Look,Kid,it's a ..Oh never mind..."

"NOTAJEEP"-1967 109 Station Wagon          Steven M. Denis
                                           PO Box 296
                                           Fulton, New York USA 
                                                      13069

------------------------------

From: jpappa01@InterServ.Com
Date: Mon, 7 Aug 95 21:25:37 PDT
Subject: Re: MISC

-enjoyed the info. on the LR models. Neat!

- R. Parker correct about DISCO volume interaction. The *remote* volume on the 
left side of the dash binnacle is simply a fader. If the Main volume control 
(priority) on the head unit is turned down out of instinct, the *gain +* fader 
remote will only fade up to the max. level of the main potentiometer. Several 
owners have driven into the shop complaining of insufficient volume until 
shown about this easily overlooked tidbit. Delivering salesman partially at 
fault for not alerting new owners of this *quirk.* Also means that new owner 
didn't bother to crack the owner's manual!

- D. Kenner correct about heaters from Canada on early Series. I had an old 
*Kodiak* for a S2 that I used to have and it clearly had a red builders plate 
which had the place of mfr. as Canada. There are actually some of us down here 
that really do consider North America to be U.S. + Canada! Similar situation 
in South America. South Americans used to bristle when I was shipping down 
there in the `70s and Yanks would refer to the States as *America." They 
(politically correctly) preferred *Norte America* y *Sud America.* 

-Hoping for a good turnout at Stowe this year so that the tug o` war can be 
won by the Roverheads again! Come give BSROA, OVLR, and anybody else a hand 
(or two!).

- Disco weatherband *WB* scans up to 10 NOAA vhf weather channels. Performance 
of this band is very much affected by terrain and performs better at sea or in 
flat areas - the VHF weather band is primarily a marine band. Geography is the 
primary performance parameter. Make sure the telescoping antenna is fully 
extended or else you won't get squat.

cheerz
Jim - now completely mad... and loving it!

`67 2A 88 5.0L hybrid
`67 2A 109 5.0L hybrid
`68 2B 110 F/C Diesel
`70 P6B 3500S
`90 Range Rover County
`93 D110 (457/500)
`95 D90

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 08 Aug 1995 02:11:54 -0500 (CDT)
From: wilsonhb@ctrvax.Vanderbilt.Edu (Henry B. Wilson)
Subject: Disco engine prob; the Black Box #40???

Is there a DiscoDoctor in the house?  This one has really stumped me!
The Disco ('94, 5 speed) hesitates when accelerating; general loss of power
with lurching.  No better when warmed up, but is less noticable at higher
RPM (whatever it is is sucking torque).  I checked the spark plug leads
(among other things) and one was loose.  This actually cured the problem for
about one day, then it returned (despite good, brass brush-improved
connection).  The loss of power is not of the magnitude of a non-firing
cylinder (tried that) and each cylinder receives spark.  No dead birds in
air intake.  Tried different gas (all 
high octane), as well as injector cleaner.  

Exhaust back pressure isn't a problem; I have replaced 3/6 (total) of the
exhaust manifold to header lock nuts with LR dealer issue items (if you have
a Disco, check this interface; mine has shaken a total of 3-4 loose, with
subsequent rough and loud idle problems).

The instrument panel registers the usual "check engine", which I did, until
I discovered the Black Box.  There is a black box under the passenger seat
that is labeled "Range Rover On Board Diagnostic Display" and currently
registers a red digital reading of "40".

I would take it in, but I ought to be able to fix this myself, right?

Any help would be _greatly_ appreciated!!

Henry B. Wilson
(wilsonhb@ctrvax.vanderbilt.edu)
NEW WWW home page (with Disco pics)
http://vumclib.mc.vanderbilt.edu/~wilsonhb

------------------------------

  END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST 
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