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msgSender linesSubject
1 jory@org.org (jory bell)27Re[2]: DAP experiences
2 Mike Rooth [M.J.Rooth@lu11Distinguished Owners..Another
3 i.mitchell@ic.ac.uk 21Brake Judder
4 Alan Richer [Alan_Richer23Suggestions for throttle linkage bits needed
5 mmurphy@evolving.com (Ma15Discovery Door Locks
6 hiner@roadrunner.com (Gr205 speeds for LR
7 brabyn@skivs.ski.org (Jo11winch mount for RR
8 mtalbot@InterServ.Com (M11Re: LAND ROVER ICON
9 Jimi Patel [jimi@voyager23DAP experiences
10 "R. Pierce Reid" [PREID@141D90 Gaiters -- How To
11 "John B. Friedman" [joha35Discovery at 2000 miles
12 Leland J Roys [roys@hpke21Trailer Light
13 "Russell G. Dushin" [dus16def110 sale
14 Jimi Patel [jimi@voyager116This fellow Sam has Rover spirit in him, would you agree ??
15 cs@crl.com (Michael Carr35Re: D90 Gaiters
16 LANROVEFN@aol.com 15Land Rover Model Cars
17 jsavage@elephant.com (Ja28Electrical problem?
18 "Mark Talbot" [mtalbot@I11Re: LR ICON WWW site needed
19 LANDROVER@delphi.com 31Re: Discovery Door Locks
20 JDolan2109@aol.com 21Long story made short?
21 jory@org.org (jory bell)54Re: 5 speeds for LR
22 "Tom Rowe" [TROWE@AE.AGE27 Re: D90 Gaiters
23 cs@crl.com (Michael Carr45USA LR Parts (Was: DAP experiences)
24 "Tom Rowe" [TROWE@AE.AGE24 Re: Land Rover Model Cars
25 "Tom Rowe" [TROWE@AE.AGE27 Re: Long story made short?
26 cs@crl.com (Michael Carr28Re: Gaiters/Gaitors


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Date: Mon, 31 Jul 1995 01:02:56 -0700
From: jory@org.org (jory bell)
Subject: Re[2]: DAP experiences

[schnip]

:OK, Spencer.  I have no intention of becoming an apologist for Al, not that
:any apologies are warranted.  As you can see, those who know Al as Tom and I
:do are not offended by a "pompous" manner and sometimes rough language.
:
:As to Al's observations, they are proving themselves correct.  I'm guilty
:of chattering in repeating Al's comments, and you're willing to destroy DAP's
:fine reputation with a quaint little story that is nothing more than heresay!

I don't know about all this chattering or whatever, but I had terrible
experiences with both the qualitu of parts and service from DAP back when
it was in Wareham, Massachusetts. Al was always pleasant enough though...
he just sold sucky parts in my several [thousand dollars worth of]
experience.

If the impending changes in LR parts distribution (less "original" parts,
etc) mean more OEM the likes of that sold by DAP, I may have to consider
selling my rover, since I can't afford to replace all my major components
every couple of years or so...

jory

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From: Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk>
Subject: Distinguished Owners..Another
Date: Mon, 31 Jul 95 9:23:21 BST

David Gower,ex England cricket captain(and local lad)
New Range Rover Reg M170LKV.

Cheers
Mike Rooth

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From: i.mitchell@ic.ac.uk
Date: Mon, 31 Jul 95 11:57:35 BST
Subject: Brake Judder

Hi all
Well my SWB has successfully passed its MOT :-), (how it got through the
 emissions, I'll never know) just in time because we're off on holiday next 
weekend. However, on driving back from the MOT centre, I found that there is 
conseiderable juddering at the rear when I break.  Also one of the rear wheels 
locks. And this had just passed its MOT!!! (ie. road worthiness test).I removed
 the break drums from both rear wheels to reveal lots of fibrous material, 
presumably break lining. Also the surfaces of the shoes appear to be flaking in 
 some places Could this be causing the juddering?  The break drums do not appear
 to be warped.  Just before the MOT I replaced the rear diff with a spare (not 
reconditioned unit).  Could it be the diff?

Any help gratefully received as I would like to drive home to Bonnie Sotland and back next week!

Cheers Ian

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From: Alan Richer <Alan_Richer.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date: 31 Jul 95  8:54:44 EDT
Subject: Suggestions for throttle linkage bits needed

Yeah, me again...8*)

Well, the motor is in and ran with fuel poured down its gullet. I am
pleased....which is an understatement.

However, I am missing a bit or two and am looing at suggestions
as to sources of supply. 

What I need at present is the linkage betweeen the throttle bellcrank
mounted on the steering box and the linkage of the Solex (yeah, I know, 
gotta get a Weber, but I have it and it works) and the ball ends
that affix the aforementioned device to the links.

Anybody got one lying around in the junkbox they want to lose, or any
suggestions as to a good source of supply for said items new? 

    Vultures R" Us... -ajr

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Date: Mon, 31 Jul 1995 07:16:17 -0600
From: mmurphy@evolving.com (Mark Murphy)
Subject: Discovery Door Locks

Just bought a '95 Discovery and have a question about the door locks.
When I use the key or remote to unlock the doors, all five doors unlock.
For me at work, this isn't a problem. If my wife take the Discovery to
class (gets out a 9:30 pm) and thinks someone is by the vehicle, all
five doors unlocking is not good. Am I missing something? How do I get
just the driver's door to unlock?

thanks,
Mark Murphy
'95 white 5spd cloth Discovery - 5 days old, ~4600 lbs

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Date: Mon, 31 Jul 1995 09:50:44 -0600
From: hiner@roadrunner.com (Greg Hiner)
Subject: 5 speeds for LR

This is a follow up to a question floating around earlier about 5 speed
transmissions for series LR.

Advance Adapters in the US 805 238-7000 fax 805 238-4201 imports an adapted
heavy duty Nissan 4 & 5 speed transmission from Mark's 4WD Adaptors in
Australia (03-793-3388) that is modified to bolt directly to the LR
transfer case. Bellhousings available for Holden 6 cylinder, Ford 6
cylinder, Range Rover and Leyland V8s and Isuzu Diesels (as well as Nissan
diesels). At the time when I got the info (1994) there was no bellhousing
available for the 2.25. They were supposed to come out with one soon
however. Though the transmission bolts directly to the transfer case I do
believe that it is longer than the original 4 speed so you will need to
shift the engine forward.

Greg

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Date: Mon, 31 Jul 95 11:06:59 PDT
From: brabyn@skivs.ski.org (John Brabyn)
Subject: winch mount for RR

I apologize for accidentally deleting an inquitry from someone with a
90 RR regarding a hidden winch mount; if you recontact me I'll send
the information! My apologies

John Brabyn
89RR

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Date: Mon, 31 Jul 95 13:23:24 PDT
From: mtalbot@InterServ.Com (Mark Talbot)
Subject: Re: LAND ROVER ICON

All, 

I have converted the LRLOGO from bitmap to ICO. Anyone want a copy e-mail me 
back. 

Mark

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Date: Mon, 31 Jul 95 11:11:25 -0700
From: Jimi Patel <jimi@voyager.Jpl.Nasa.Gov>
Subject: DAP experiences

Dear Michael Carradine,

Can you please e-mail me DAP's phone number. I would like to convey the fellow
rover-net members ... Have you tried to get parts from England for a 20/30 year
old vehicles?? and see it for yourselves what you come across. Countless phone
calls, wrong parts being sent, waiting months etc. While DAP, RN, BP etc., are 
really doing us a service providing parts and technical information and what
nots.  A small amount of dis-service ought not warrant a bad label on DAP.

Regards,

Jimi Patel..
e-mail jimi@voyager.jpl.nasa.gov

P.S.

I have never used the above mentioned parts stores, but i understand to give
them a try having constantly getting stuff from England WRONG!!!

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Date: 31 Jul 95 16:46:35 EDT
From: "R. Pierce Reid" <PREID@csi.compuserve.com>
Subject: D90 Gaiters -- How To

Wonder of wonders, gaiters *do* fit on a D90.  

Of course, it takes a lot of fabrication, drilling, grinding and language that
would make a drill sergeant blush.

First, the fabrication -- this starts when someone tells you that Land Rover
makes a part 'RTC3826' that is supposed to fit the D90.  This is a complete
fabrication.  But, whether it fits or not is beside the point.  You need to buy
one. (BTW,  I am not sure what it is *supposed* to fit.  But I can assure you
that it is not supposed to fit a U.S. Spec. D90.)

Before we get into the joyous process of installation... let's define gaiters
(this is especially for the benefit of those who have never owned a Series Rover
and have therefore never had to endure the pain of being told you need to shell
out $600 for new swivel balls because your old ones are pitted like a giant golf
ball.)  Gaiters are leather 'bags' that cover the swivel balls on the ends of
your front axle.  The swivel balls are part of a ball and socket-type joint that
makes up the front steering arrangement.  These balls are made of steel and are
totally exposed to the elements.  On series Land Rovers, they seem to be made of
Rust and merely covered with a very thin clating of a shiny metallic looking
substance.  

Though the swivel balls are constantly 'wiped' with oil from the front seals,
the eventually can succumb to the elements (and salty roads) and end up pitted.
When this happens, the oil runs out of the reservoirs inside the swivel balls
and onto your garage floor (or onto the windshield of the Yugo that is
tailgating you) necessitating constant replenishment of oil.  The pits also chew
up your seals, making them useless.  And, the pits can allow water to penetrate,
causing even worse problems, not the least of which is having to explain to your
spouse or significant other that you have to shell out another $400 to Rovers
North for additional parts.. 
Though I have heard claims that the D90 swivel balls are a more rust-resistant
alloy than the old Series LR's... I am not sure I want to wait 5 years to see if
that's true, and I have a hunch U.S. Spec D90 parts are going to stay *really*
expensive well into the future.

When covered with leather gaiters, these swivel balls are considerably better
protected from the elements.  Mind you, gaiters are not perfect, but they are
better than a constant bath of salt spray in the winter and they can keep dust
and sand off the swivel balls in more tropical/dusty climates.  Personally, I
like having gaiters on a Rover.

So... now that you know *why* you want gaiters.

Once you have part number  'RTC3826', unwrapped from the plastic bag with
"Genuine Land Rover" written in Farsi on it,  you will see you have 2 leather
pieces that can be shaped into cones, 2 shoelace like strings, 2 large hose
clamps and 4 metal pieces of varying shapes and lengths that I call
"half-rings".  You will also see that you have no @#$%ing instructions (but
that's ok, because we men never ask directions and real Land Rover owners never
read the instructions anyway.)

Your first step is to gather tools... you will need a small (and I mean small --
1/4 drive Craftsman is ideal) socket wrench, metric sockets, a grinder, drill
with bits up to 1/4 inch, a rat-tail file (1/4 inch), flat file, a leather punch
(optional), and lots of shop rags.  Also some 90 weight gear oil and a tub of
axle grease and a bottle of isopropyl alcohol.  For those who want to take the
wheel off (it is not necessary) you will need a jack and jackstands.  Really,
you can do this with the wheel on.

Start by slathering the leather pieces generously with axle grease, especially
on the inside (thr rough side).  Work it in with your hands... saturate the
leather well.  Then, go have a few beers  and leave the project overnight so the
leather can soak up the grease.  This is important as it helps waterproof the
leather and if the leather is not water resistant, it becomes (you guessed it)
water absorbant.  You know what that will do...

Next morning, you are ready to begin.  Take the alcohol and use it to thoroughly
clean the swivel ball.  Clean the crud off the seal and off the seal retainer
ring as well.  You want all the sand and dirt off and a spotlessly clean swivel
ball (and immediate area.)

Now, you're ready to begin.  You'll note that the holes on the metal half-ring
parts you have do not line up with the nuts on the swivel ball seal retaining
ring.  You will have to drill some new holes and elongate some existing ones in
the half-ring.  On the right hand wheel (on your left as you face the vehicle),
use the shorter of the two metal pieces across the bottom... from about 9
o'clock to 3 o'clock.  The slightly longer one goes over the top.  

Since you are a Land Rover owner and would be insulted if I stated the
obvious... you will need to look at how the holes line up and make suitable
modifications to the piece so that the
bolts line up.  This will involve elongating a couple of holes and drilling a
couple more.  It will also involve grinding about 1/4 inch off the top metal
bracket at the 3 o'clock position.  You will also have to grind a small section
out of one piece at about the 8 o'clock position to allow it to clear the wheel
stop bolt.  

Once the pieces are lined up, you are ready to install the leather pieces.
First, remove the three bolts along the bottom (they are at about 8, 6 and 4
o'clock around the swivel ball.)  When you undo these, you will get some oil
leakage unless you hold your thumb on the retaining ring at about the 6 O'clock
position.  

Now, line up the holes on the leather piece with the holes on the metal ring.
You will probably need to punch at least one new hole.  Position the leather,
too, so that the seam you will later stitch up is at the rear (three O'clock
position).  Then, bolt the half-ring into place and fold the flap over the top
of the axle and  out of your way.  

Then, remove the three top bolts and attach the leather piece under the top
half-ring so that it is secured all around.  (I know, this is a very hard
process to visualize when written out, but if you own a Defender, you will be
able to figure out this process very quickly... really.)

Now, lace the leather up in back.  It will be easier if you start the engine and
turn the wheel all the way to the left.  Lace the gaiters in an X pattern,
overlapping the leather so that the holes on the top flap go over the top of the
first set of holes on the bottom flap.  Then lace in an X pattern and tie off.

Finally, take the hose clamp and install it right next to the large flange that
connects the swivel ball assembly to the axle housing.  The flange will have
about 8 large bolts through it, and you want to get the clamp as close to these
bolts as possible.  Put the screw at 6 o'clock facing forward.  Tighten until
almost completely tight, start the engine again and thrn the wheels lock to lock
a couple of times.  Then, make sure the leather is not bunched up or snagged
anywhere.  Then, turn the engine off and tighten the hose clamp the rest of the
way. 

The other wheel is about the same as the first... but requires grinding and
drilling holes in different places.  Again, you are Land Rover owners... you'll
know what to do.  

 Finally, slap a little (ok, a lot) more grease on the outside and rub it in.
Do this a couple of times in the first week or two and make extra efforts to
drive down dusty roads... the coating of dust on the outside will help seal the
gaiters even further.

So, apart from the cutting, drilling and grinding, the process for installing
gaiters on a D90 is about the same as it is for a Series LR or any other LR
product.  But, contrary to what I had been told, it *is* possible to fit gaiters
onto a D90 and, IMHO, well worth the time and effort.

Cheers,

R. P. Reid

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Date: Mon, 31 Jul 95 15:57:09 -0500
From: "John B. Friedman" <johannes@scribes.english.uiuc.edu>
Subject: Discovery at 2000 miles

Anyone interested in milage and gas in Discovery?  I just finished  
putting 2000 miles on mine, 1600 mile trip to Pennsylvania, mostly  
flat freeway but some mountains, 18% grades and some long ones. The  
car ran perfectly, no problems except the occasional strange  
epileptic right turn signal fast flashing in hot weather. I don't  
know if I have  actual flashing bulbs then or not. But clearly the  
bulbs are not defective as they work the rest of the time.
	In steady freeway driving through Indiana and Ohio I began to  
get 22.4 at 65(no air on) and using cruise control. I was picking up  
almost a mile per gallon to a tankful as the car broke in. I noticed  
that this went down considerably with the air on, perhaps as much as  
2-3 miles a gallon. Also that at 55-60 with no cruise I only got  
21.9, so cruise definitely helps. City driving gives 12-13 MPG with  
air on.
	This driving done using plus grade, 89 octane(often the  
cheapest I could find)  with no difference in performance between it  
and premium that I could sense. There was certainly no pinging on the  
long grades. The car is very slow up hills and went up 18% er in 2d  
gear. This may be its weight or just that it is still pretty tight.
	No oil leaks, and oil looked pretty clean. 

	I did notice a lot of brake pad powder on the front wheels  
after 2000 miles and think the pads may either be seating in or will  
wear quickly. I did little braking and that gently, so think again it  
is the weight of the car.
	Be warned not to stuff anything under the passenger's seat,  
as the space is inviting but there is a relay there--perhaps in the  
amp--which can be moved out of its socket easily. 

 

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From: Leland J Roys <roys@hpkel13.cup.hp.com>
Subject: Trailer Light
Date: Mon, 31 Jul 95 14:16:29 PDT

Trailer Light
-------------

Starting last week, when I use the turn signal (left or right), the panel
light with the trailer picture will flash along with the turn signal
light. It will flash only 1 time, and then only the turn signal flashes.

I do not have a trailer connected, and I checked all the turn signal lights
and they are all OK. Does anybody know why this is happening (The truck is
a 1994 Def-90 bought about 3 months ago).

Leland J. Roys
Cupertino, California
'94 Defender 90 (Red)
roys@hpkel13.cup.hp.com

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From: "Russell G. Dushin" <dushinrg@pr.cyanamid.com>
Subject: def110 sale
Date: Mon, 31 Jul 95 17:49:15 EDT

As seen in yesterday's NY Times:

Defender 110, 38K miles, $36,500,
or was it the other way around....

something like that, anyway.  Seen in the out of town addition.
At least it wasn't outrageous.

rgds,
rd/nigel

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Date: Mon, 31 Jul 95 15:09:37 -0700
From: Jimi Patel <jimi@voyager.Jpl.Nasa.Gov>
Subject: This fellow Sam has Rover spirit in him, would you agree ??

Status: RO

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                  IN THE GOOD OLD DAYS GONE BY
                      JPL as I once knew it

                          Sam Brunstein

     At Jpl today, problem solving is complex.  If something
     goes wrong with a piece of spacecraft hardware, the
     person noticing the problem writes a Problem/Failure
     Report (PFR).  The seriousness of the problem is
     evaluated by several internal agencies.  If the problem
     is significant the PFR is referred to a Material Review
     Board (MRB) for evaluation and a recommended solution.
     If the Project approves the MRB recommendation, the
     Cognizant Engineer fixes the problem.

The phone woke me up.  I looked at the clock -- 2 a.m.  Not good.

"Sam?" said the voice.

"Uh" said I.

"It's Tom at the Spacecraft Assembly Facility."

"What's up, Tom?"

"One of my guys bumped your antenna with his head, and he bent
one of those little wires that stick out, bent it over about
half-way.  What should I do?"

Now I was awake.  "I don't know.  I'll come and look."

This spacecraft had two antennas.  One was a low-gain that
sprayed radio-waves in nearly all directions but the waves
weren't very strong.  The other antenna was the high-gain.  It
focused the radio-waves into a powerful beam.  Both antennas were
fastened to the body of the craft so they pointed where the
spacecraft was pointed.  Throughout the last half of the flight
the high-gain antenna would point to the earth, and when the ship
got to Mars it would provide the strong signal that allowed fast
data transfer to earth.  But during the first half of the flight
the spaceship was at the wrong angle and only the wide-angle low-
gain antenna could talk with the earth.  Even in the last half of
the mission, if the craft lost its pointing stabilization the
high-gain antenna would point the wrong way.  The low-gain
antenna would be needed to receive commands to help get the ship
out of trouble.

My antenna was the low-gain antenna.  It was important that it
work right.

This antenna was really mine, all the way down my gut.  I dreamt
it up, designed it, built it, tested it, and delivered it to the
spacecraft assembly crew.  For two years I lived with this baby
every day, and I mean every day.  Ten hours a day, seven days a
week.  For the last year of the development I had pieces of that
antenna in my hand every day.  I knew what it looked like, what
it felt like, and what it smelled like.  I knew this thing with
its clothes off.  It was MINE.  I was its Cognizant Engineer, Bob
Thomas was its midwife, and Bill Layman was its mother.
job.  I worked with the mission designers to
develop the requirements for it.  Then I designed it.  There were
countless hours of cut-and-try with Bob Thomas on the Mesa
Antenna Range.  We didn't use computers for this kind of design.
My timeshare segment of the mainframe computer was 64 kilobits.
Good for some stuff, but not for solving megapoint vector
equations.  Nowadays we would design it on a PC.

The design led to a shining, hollow tube of aluminum, about four
inches across and six feet long.  The metal skin had to be very
thin and lightweight, yet the shaft had to be almost perfectly
round.  Building that sucker was a real challenge, but we had a
talented mechanical engineer.  Bill Layman solved all the
problems.  By the time that antenna was ready to be delivered,
there were three or four of us that had a very personal interest
in its welfare.

After I went through the clean-room rain dance, I ignored the
Test Team and walked straight to the spacecraft and my antenna.

At the top of the antenna there were sixteen thin aluminum wires
about three inches long sticking straight out from the tube.
These were needed to make the radio-waves go in exactly the right
directions.  One of them was bent down about 45 degrees.  No
catastrophe, but worrisome.  If it broke off in space, would the
radio waves go way off course?  Not likely, but it would have
some effect.  If it broke off in space would it interfere with
some other part of the ship?  Maybe.  Nobody knew for certain.

We had a spare antenna.  But putting a spare onto a spaceship
that was halfway through testing is a big deal.  A lot of stuff
has to be unscrewed to get at things, and there is plenty of
opportunity to damage more equipment.  It's a risk.

I got a magnifying glass and looked closely at the base of the
bent wire.  I didn't see any cracks.  I reached out and bent it
back where it belonged then looked again.  Still no cracks.

"Fly it," I said, and went home to bed.  Slept like a log.

They flew it.

It worked.

     Mariner IV passed by Mars in July of 1965.  It sent
     back 21 television pictures of the planet, using the
     high-gain antenna.  During flight, the spacecraft did
     have problems with its attitude stabilization.  The
     low-gain antenna was used to correct the problems.

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Date: Mon, 31 Jul 1995 15:08:20 +0100
From: cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine)
Subject: Re: D90 Gaiters

 R. Pierce Reid <PREID@csi.compuserve.com> writes:

>Start by slathering the leather pieces generously with axle grease, especially
>on the inside (thr rough side).  Work it in with your hands... saturate the
>leather well.  Then, go have a few beers  and leave the project overnight
so the
>leather can soak up the grease.  This is important as it helps waterproof the
>leather and if the leather is not water resistant, it becomes (you guessed it)
>water absorbant.  You know what that will do...

 R. P.,

 I enjoyed your novella on Rover gaiters.  Since you said that real men don't
 read instructions, I'll throw yours away so that next timed I install gaiters
 they will be 'lost' :)

 Not to be picky, but isn't the leather supposed to be 'primed' with vaseline
 instead of axle grease?  Did you by chance make a copy of the leather pattern
 before installing it (Several people on the net --especially New Zealanders
 and Australians where sheep outnumber women 100:1 -- expressed an interest in
 fabricating their own from leather and other readily available parts)?  What
 is your opinion regarding the issue of gaiters actually contributing to the
 deterioration of swivel balls by retaining moisture and mud debris, etc (I
 favor gaiters myself, but..).

   
 Michael Carradine, Architect                                 <cs@crl.com>
 Ph/Fax 510-988-0900                                       .plan available
 _________________________________________________________________________
 Mercedes-Benz Unimog 4x4 WWW page at:  http://www.crl.com/~cs/unimog.html

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From: LANROVEFN@aol.com
Date: Mon, 31 Jul 1995 18:51:18 -0400
Subject: Land Rover Model Cars

I attended a model car show in Parsippany NJ yesterday and was very
disappointed at the lack of quality Land Rover models out there.  It seemed
there was everything but Land Rovers.  I found an old Dinky 109 and a few
Range Rovers that looked like they came out of the 5 & 10.  However they did
have an obscure
replica of the Howmet Turbine car that cost $200.  Thoughts and comments
please.
Mike Schmidt
94 Disco

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Date: Mon, 31 Jul 1995 17:52:02 -0500
From: jsavage@elephant.com (James Savage)
Subject: Electrical problem?

I've been having what seems to be an electrical problem with my '90 County.
My cruise control functions erradically.

Half the time it works fine, the other half I am unable to get the cruise
control main gateway to operate properly.

When I depress the cruise control main gateway switch, the button does not
illuminate and the cruise control is not operational.  When I then switch
off the gateway I get the "Service Engine" light on the dash.

Any help would be greatly appreciated,

James

 - = - = - = - = - = - = - = - = - = - = - = - = - = - = - = - = - = -
                            James Savage
                         Systems Integrator
      Pachyderm, LLC                         Phone: (414)784-2466
  333 Bishops Way Suite 144                    Fax: (414)784-8373
    Brookfield, WI 53005                  Email: jsavage@pchydrm.com

              Visit our Web site: http://www.pchydrm.com
 - = - = - = - = - = - = - = - = - = - = - = - = - = - = - = - = - = -

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Date: Mon, 31 Jul 95 16:08:57 PDT
From: "Mark Talbot" <mtalbot@InterServ.Com>
Subject: Re: LR ICON WWW site needed

All, 

Having trouble with this icon even with UUCODE, anyone help me get it to a WEB 
SITE ?

Mark

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From: LANDROVER@delphi.com
Date: Mon, 31 Jul 1995 19:34:49 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Discovery Door Locks

Mark asks about locks...
 
> Just bought a '95 Discovery and have a question about the door locks.
> When I use the key or remote to unlock the doors, all five doors unlock.
/

> For me at work, this isn't a problem. If my wife take the Discovery to
> class (gets out a 9:30 pm) and thinks someone is by the vehicle, all
> five doors unlocking is not good. Am I missing something? How o I get
> just the drivr's door to unlock?
/

Easy to fix. I'll trade you even - Your Disco for my '65 IIa SWB Station
Wagon. One key for the drivers door, one key for the rear door, no key for
the passengers door (the lock is on the inside). All the locks work fine.
And none of those stinkin' electronic gizmo's to give you trouble! :)

> thanks,
> Mark Murphy
> '95 white 5spd cloth Discovery - 5 days old, ~4600 lbs
/

Cheers
Mike Loiodice
'65 green 4spd IIa - 30 years old, 2900 lbs

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From: JDolan2109@aol.com
Date: Mon, 31 Jul 1995 19:51:55 -0400
Subject: Long story made short?

Tom Rowe Wrote:
 If you already are doing a valve job, then by all means make the conversion
then.
But even if you don't, I doubt that you would even notice it over the life of

your car.

And I thought LR's were immortal!! (Cars? Maybe he posted to the wrong list?)
''''''''''''''''
Re: Pink Panthers: Call me a conservative but- I'd try Thompson's at first.
Adequate, reliable and easy to service in the field.

See 'ya on the old road...
Jim  '61 88" SW / OD, 1 Bbl weber & 16's   (econobox?)
LR....quite possibly one of the best machines yet devised! 

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Date: Mon, 31 Jul 1995 17:33:59 -0700
From: jory@org.org (jory bell)
Subject: Re: 5 speeds for LR

Greg Hiner wrote:

:Advance Adapters in the US 805 238-7000 fax 805 238-4201 imports an adapted
:heavy duty Nissan 4 & 5 speed transmission from Mark's 4WD Adaptors in
:Australia (03-793-3388) that is modified to bolt directly to the LR
:transfer case. Bellhousings available for Holden 6 cylinder, Ford 6
:cylinder, Range Rover and Leyland V8s and Isuzu Diesels (as well as Nissan
:diesels). At the time when I got the info (1994) there was no bellhousing
:available for the 2.25. They were supposed to come out with one soon
:however. Though the transmission bolts directly to the transfer case I do
:believe that it is longer than the original 4 speed so you will need to
:shift the engine forward.

Thanks Greg!

I called Advanced Adapters, and after first denying any knowledge of the
5-speed, they located a Mark's 4wd catalog and gave me minimal info.

I ended up calling Mark's 4wd directly. They do not have a bell housing for
the 2.25 liter engine, and according to the person I spoke with, they are
not going to be producing one. They didn't know of anyone else who might
procuce or sell such a beast (ie any 5-speed conversion to go with the
original engine).

I tried calling Roverworks (someone said thy had dome some LT77
conversions) and received no reply to my messages (they do mention in their
outgoing message that you should be patient, but longer than a week?). I
left a second message after 10 days, but am not holding my breath...

Any other pointers to 5-speed conversions for a series vehicle, with 2.25
liter petrol engine? Preferrably one that doesn't require moving the engine
forward (although cutting driveshafts is fine).

Maybe I am just out of luck on this one...

In any case, I am worknig towards repairing my current 4-speed gearbox (it
had lost access to 3rd and 4th gears).

My gearbox, xfer case, od, seatbase, etc... are all on my floor now.

I noticed some oil in the bellhousing, which I think is coming from the
engine, so I guess I'll be replacing the rear main seal on the engine (the
current seal was from DAP and installed 5 years ago, FWIW).

I guess I might as well fit a new clutch while I am in there.

Fun, fun.

-jory

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From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date:          Mon, 31 Jul 1995 20:12:45 GMT -0600
Subject:       Re: D90 Gaiters

Snip
>  instead of axle grease?  Did you by chance make a copy of the leather pattern
>  before installing it (Several people on the net --especially New Zealanders
>  and Australians where sheep outnumber women 100:1 -- expressed an interest in
>  fabricating their own from leather and other readily available parts)?  What
Snip
Michael,
Are you, per chance, looking for the pattern? When I installed new ones on LR 
for a customer some years back, I had a pattern made at a leather shop while 
I was getting some more made (on the theory that one day I'd want to replace 
mine). It's a nice pattern, made from 1/16th inch plastic sheet, quite 
durable.
Tom

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

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Date: Mon, 31 Jul 1995 18:12:49 +0100
From: cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine)
Subject: USA LR Parts (Was: DAP experiences)

 Jimi Patel <jimi@voyager.Jpl.Nasa.Gov> writes:

>Can you please e-mail me DAP's phone number. I would like to convey the fellow
>rover-net members ... Have you tried to get parts from England for 20/30 year
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
>really doing us a service providing parts and technical information and what
>nots.  A small amount of dis-service ought not warrant a bad label on DAP.

 Agreed!!  Here is DAP's phone as well as the other major L-Rover parts
 houses in the US that keep these aluminum workhorses on and off the road.

 AB    Atlantic British Ltd.       Ph.  800-533-2210 Orders
       PO Box 110                  Ph.  518-664-6169
       Mechanicville, NY 12118     Fax  518-664-6641

 ABC   Atlantic British Parts of California*
       PO Box 620                  Ph.  916-778-3937
       Lewiston, CA 96052          Fax  916-778-3937

 BP    British Pacific Ltd.        Ph.  800-554-4133 Orders
       3317 Burton Avenue          Ph.  818-841-8945
       Burbank, CA 91504           Fax  818-841-3825

 DAP   D.A.P. Enterprises, Inc*    Ph.  802-885-6660
       86 Clinton Street           Fax  802-885-6662
       Springfield, VT 05156

 RN    Rovers North, Inc           Ph.  802-879-0032
       Route 128                   Fax  802-879-9152
       Westford, VT 05494-9601

 *Atantic British of California and D.A.P. Inc. are now affiliated,
  and have assimilated British Rovers formerly in Cavendish, VT.

 As you say, "Use them or lose them".  Really!

 Michael Carradine, Architect                                 <cs@crl.com>
 Ph/Fax 510-988-0900                                       .plan available
 _________________________________________________________________________
 Mercedes-Benz Unimog 4x4 WWW page at:  http://www.crl.com/~cs/unimog.html

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From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date:          Mon, 31 Jul 1995 20:20:55 GMT -0600
Subject:       Re: Land Rover Model Cars

Snip
> replica of the Howmet Turbine car that cost $200.  Thoughts and comments
> please.

Mike,
That reminds me. The new Squadron Shop catalog lists two new Land Rover 
models for about $10 ea. They are in 1/76 scale I think. Minitank also 
produced a Land Rover some years back. Silly me, I never bought any even 
though I collected Minitanks as a kid.
Tom

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

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From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date:          Mon, 31 Jul 1995 20:29:31 GMT -0600
Subject:       Re: Long story made short?

J. Dolan wrote:
 
> Tom Rowe Wrote:
>  If you already are doing a valve job, then by all means make the conversion
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)]
> And I thought LR's were immortal!! (Cars? Maybe he posted to the wrong list?)
> ''''''''''''''''
Jim,
I at times refer to my LR as a car, truck, Rover, The Antichrist/Beast.
Quite a few things, but NEVER a jeep. In case you were wondering.  :-)
Seriously though, since I suspect most of the people on this list own 
vehicles other than LR's, I was speaking generically.
Tom

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

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Date: Mon, 31 Jul 1995 19:12:33 +0100
From: cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine)
Subject: Re: Gaiters/Gaitors

 Tom Rowe <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU> writes:

>Are you, per chance, looking for the pattern? When I installed new ones on LR 
>for a customer some years back, I had a pattern made at a leather shop while 
>I was getting some more made (on the theory that one day I'd want to replace 
>mine). It's a nice pattern, made from 1/16th inch plastic sheet, quite 
>durable.

 No and yes!  I'm Roverless at the moment, an affliction I hope to cure
 someday.  I would certainly install gaitors given the chance, as were on
 my Series III, and even construct them myself.  I should have copied or at
 least measured mine before installing them (hindsight is always 20/20).

 What I'd like to do is measure the pattern and make it available on the
 Web for those do-it-your-selfers.  It's not terribly complicated, really.
 (Maybe you'd trace your pattern on a newspaper and send it to me?)

 BTW- Is it "gaiters" or "gaitors"??

 Michael Carradine, Architect                                 <cs@crl.com>
 Carradine Studios, PO Box 99, Orinda, CA 94563 USA    Ph/Fax 510-988-0900
 _________________________________________________________________________
 Mercedes-Benz Unimog 4x4 WWW page at:  http://www.crl.com/~cs/unimog.html

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