[ First Message Last | Table of Contents | <- Digest -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
msg | Sender | lines | Subject |
1 | jory@org.org (jory bell) | 27 | Re[2]: DAP experiences |
2 | Mike Rooth [M.J.Rooth@lu | 11 | Distinguished Owners..Another |
3 | i.mitchell@ic.ac.uk | 21 | Brake Judder |
4 | Alan Richer [Alan_Richer | 23 | Suggestions for throttle linkage bits needed |
5 | mmurphy@evolving.com (Ma | 15 | Discovery Door Locks |
6 | hiner@roadrunner.com (Gr | 20 | 5 speeds for LR |
7 | brabyn@skivs.ski.org (Jo | 11 | winch mount for RR |
8 | mtalbot@InterServ.Com (M | 11 | Re: LAND ROVER ICON |
9 | Jimi Patel [jimi@voyager | 23 | DAP experiences |
10 | "R. Pierce Reid" [PREID@ | 141 | D90 Gaiters -- How To |
11 | "John B. Friedman" [joha | 35 | Discovery at 2000 miles |
12 | Leland J Roys [roys@hpke | 21 | Trailer Light |
13 | "Russell G. Dushin" [dus | 16 | def110 sale |
14 | Jimi Patel [jimi@voyager | 116 | This fellow Sam has Rover spirit in him, would you agree ?? |
15 | cs@crl.com (Michael Carr | 35 | Re: D90 Gaiters |
16 | LANROVEFN@aol.com | 15 | Land Rover Model Cars |
17 | jsavage@elephant.com (Ja | 28 | Electrical problem? |
18 | "Mark Talbot" [mtalbot@I | 11 | Re: LR ICON WWW site needed |
19 | LANDROVER@delphi.com | 31 | Re: Discovery Door Locks |
20 | JDolan2109@aol.com | 21 | Long story made short? |
21 | jory@org.org (jory bell) | 54 | Re: 5 speeds for LR |
22 | "Tom Rowe" [TROWE@AE.AGE | 27 | Re: D90 Gaiters |
23 | cs@crl.com (Michael Carr | 45 | USA LR Parts (Was: DAP experiences) |
24 | "Tom Rowe" [TROWE@AE.AGE | 24 | Re: Land Rover Model Cars |
25 | "Tom Rowe" [TROWE@AE.AGE | 27 | Re: Long story made short? |
26 | cs@crl.com (Michael Carr | 28 | Re: Gaiters/Gaitors |
Date: Mon, 31 Jul 1995 01:02:56 -0700 From: jory@org.org (jory bell) Subject: Re[2]: DAP experiences [schnip] :OK, Spencer. I have no intention of becoming an apologist for Al, not that :any apologies are warranted. As you can see, those who know Al as Tom and I :do are not offended by a "pompous" manner and sometimes rough language. : :As to Al's observations, they are proving themselves correct. I'm guilty :of chattering in repeating Al's comments, and you're willing to destroy DAP's :fine reputation with a quaint little story that is nothing more than heresay! I don't know about all this chattering or whatever, but I had terrible experiences with both the qualitu of parts and service from DAP back when it was in Wareham, Massachusetts. Al was always pleasant enough though... he just sold sucky parts in my several [thousand dollars worth of] experience. If the impending changes in LR parts distribution (less "original" parts, etc) mean more OEM the likes of that sold by DAP, I may have to consider selling my rover, since I can't afford to replace all my major components every couple of years or so... jory ------------------------------[ <- Message 2 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950801 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk> Subject: Distinguished Owners..Another Date: Mon, 31 Jul 95 9:23:21 BST David Gower,ex England cricket captain(and local lad) New Range Rover Reg M170LKV. Cheers Mike Rooth ------------------------------[ <- Message 3 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950801 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: i.mitchell@ic.ac.uk Date: Mon, 31 Jul 95 11:57:35 BST Subject: Brake Judder Hi all Well my SWB has successfully passed its MOT :-), (how it got through the emissions, I'll never know) just in time because we're off on holiday next weekend. However, on driving back from the MOT centre, I found that there is conseiderable juddering at the rear when I break. Also one of the rear wheels locks. And this had just passed its MOT!!! (ie. road worthiness test).I removed the break drums from both rear wheels to reveal lots of fibrous material, presumably break lining. Also the surfaces of the shoes appear to be flaking in some places Could this be causing the juddering? The break drums do not appear to be warped. Just before the MOT I replaced the rear diff with a spare (not reconditioned unit). Could it be the diff? Any help gratefully received as I would like to drive home to Bonnie Sotland and back next week! Cheers Ian ------------------------------[ <- Message 4 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950801 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Alan Richer <Alan_Richer.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com> Date: 31 Jul 95 8:54:44 EDT Subject: Suggestions for throttle linkage bits needed Yeah, me again...8*) Well, the motor is in and ran with fuel poured down its gullet. I am pleased....which is an understatement. However, I am missing a bit or two and am looing at suggestions as to sources of supply. What I need at present is the linkage betweeen the throttle bellcrank mounted on the steering box and the linkage of the Solex (yeah, I know, gotta get a Weber, but I have it and it works) and the ball ends that affix the aforementioned device to the links. Anybody got one lying around in the junkbox they want to lose, or any suggestions as to a good source of supply for said items new? Vultures R" Us... -ajr ------------------------------[ <- Message 5 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950801 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 31 Jul 1995 07:16:17 -0600 From: mmurphy@evolving.com (Mark Murphy) Subject: Discovery Door Locks Just bought a '95 Discovery and have a question about the door locks. When I use the key or remote to unlock the doors, all five doors unlock. For me at work, this isn't a problem. If my wife take the Discovery to class (gets out a 9:30 pm) and thinks someone is by the vehicle, all five doors unlocking is not good. Am I missing something? How do I get just the driver's door to unlock? thanks, Mark Murphy '95 white 5spd cloth Discovery - 5 days old, ~4600 lbs ------------------------------[ <- Message 6 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950801 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 31 Jul 1995 09:50:44 -0600 From: hiner@roadrunner.com (Greg Hiner) Subject: 5 speeds for LR This is a follow up to a question floating around earlier about 5 speed transmissions for series LR. Advance Adapters in the US 805 238-7000 fax 805 238-4201 imports an adapted heavy duty Nissan 4 & 5 speed transmission from Mark's 4WD Adaptors in Australia (03-793-3388) that is modified to bolt directly to the LR transfer case. Bellhousings available for Holden 6 cylinder, Ford 6 cylinder, Range Rover and Leyland V8s and Isuzu Diesels (as well as Nissan diesels). At the time when I got the info (1994) there was no bellhousing available for the 2.25. They were supposed to come out with one soon however. Though the transmission bolts directly to the transfer case I do believe that it is longer than the original 4 speed so you will need to shift the engine forward. Greg ------------------------------[ <- Message 7 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950801 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 31 Jul 95 11:06:59 PDT From: brabyn@skivs.ski.org (John Brabyn) Subject: winch mount for RR I apologize for accidentally deleting an inquitry from someone with a 90 RR regarding a hidden winch mount; if you recontact me I'll send the information! My apologies John Brabyn 89RR ------------------------------[ <- Message 8 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950801 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 31 Jul 95 13:23:24 PDT From: mtalbot@InterServ.Com (Mark Talbot) Subject: Re: LAND ROVER ICON All, I have converted the LRLOGO from bitmap to ICO. Anyone want a copy e-mail me back. Mark ------------------------------[ <- Message 9 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950801 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 31 Jul 95 11:11:25 -0700 From: Jimi Patel <jimi@voyager.Jpl.Nasa.Gov> Subject: DAP experiences Dear Michael Carradine, Can you please e-mail me DAP's phone number. I would like to convey the fellow rover-net members ... Have you tried to get parts from England for a 20/30 year old vehicles?? and see it for yourselves what you come across. Countless phone calls, wrong parts being sent, waiting months etc. While DAP, RN, BP etc., are really doing us a service providing parts and technical information and what nots. A small amount of dis-service ought not warrant a bad label on DAP. Regards, Jimi Patel.. e-mail jimi@voyager.jpl.nasa.gov P.S. I have never used the above mentioned parts stores, but i understand to give them a try having constantly getting stuff from England WRONG!!! ------------------------------[ <- Message 10 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950801 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: 31 Jul 95 16:46:35 EDT From: "R. Pierce Reid" <PREID@csi.compuserve.com> Subject: D90 Gaiters -- How To Wonder of wonders, gaiters *do* fit on a D90. Of course, it takes a lot of fabrication, drilling, grinding and language that would make a drill sergeant blush. First, the fabrication -- this starts when someone tells you that Land Rover makes a part 'RTC3826' that is supposed to fit the D90. This is a complete fabrication. But, whether it fits or not is beside the point. You need to buy one. (BTW, I am not sure what it is *supposed* to fit. But I can assure you that it is not supposed to fit a U.S. Spec. D90.) Before we get into the joyous process of installation... let's define gaiters (this is especially for the benefit of those who have never owned a Series Rover and have therefore never had to endure the pain of being told you need to shell out $600 for new swivel balls because your old ones are pitted like a giant golf ball.) Gaiters are leather 'bags' that cover the swivel balls on the ends of your front axle. The swivel balls are part of a ball and socket-type joint that makes up the front steering arrangement. These balls are made of steel and are totally exposed to the elements. On series Land Rovers, they seem to be made of Rust and merely covered with a very thin clating of a shiny metallic looking substance. Though the swivel balls are constantly 'wiped' with oil from the front seals, the eventually can succumb to the elements (and salty roads) and end up pitted. When this happens, the oil runs out of the reservoirs inside the swivel balls and onto your garage floor (or onto the windshield of the Yugo that is tailgating you) necessitating constant replenishment of oil. The pits also chew up your seals, making them useless. And, the pits can allow water to penetrate, causing even worse problems, not the least of which is having to explain to your spouse or significant other that you have to shell out another $400 to Rovers North for additional parts.. Though I have heard claims that the D90 swivel balls are a more rust-resistant alloy than the old Series LR's... I am not sure I want to wait 5 years to see if that's true, and I have a hunch U.S. Spec D90 parts are going to stay *really* expensive well into the future. When covered with leather gaiters, these swivel balls are considerably better protected from the elements. Mind you, gaiters are not perfect, but they are better than a constant bath of salt spray in the winter and they can keep dust and sand off the swivel balls in more tropical/dusty climates. Personally, I like having gaiters on a Rover. So... now that you know *why* you want gaiters. Once you have part number 'RTC3826', unwrapped from the plastic bag with "Genuine Land Rover" written in Farsi on it, you will see you have 2 leather pieces that can be shaped into cones, 2 shoelace like strings, 2 large hose clamps and 4 metal pieces of varying shapes and lengths that I call "half-rings". You will also see that you have no @#$%ing instructions (but that's ok, because we men never ask directions and real Land Rover owners never read the instructions anyway.) Your first step is to gather tools... you will need a small (and I mean small -- 1/4 drive Craftsman is ideal) socket wrench, metric sockets, a grinder, drill with bits up to 1/4 inch, a rat-tail file (1/4 inch), flat file, a leather punch (optional), and lots of shop rags. Also some 90 weight gear oil and a tub of axle grease and a bottle of isopropyl alcohol. For those who want to take the wheel off (it is not necessary) you will need a jack and jackstands. Really, you can do this with the wheel on. Start by slathering the leather pieces generously with axle grease, especially on the inside (thr rough side). Work it in with your hands... saturate the leather well. Then, go have a few beers and leave the project overnight so the leather can soak up the grease. This is important as it helps waterproof the leather and if the leather is not water resistant, it becomes (you guessed it) water absorbant. You know what that will do... Next morning, you are ready to begin. Take the alcohol and use it to thoroughly clean the swivel ball. Clean the crud off the seal and off the seal retainer ring as well. You want all the sand and dirt off and a spotlessly clean swivel ball (and immediate area.) Now, you're ready to begin. You'll note that the holes on the metal half-ring parts you have do not line up with the nuts on the swivel ball seal retaining ring. You will have to drill some new holes and elongate some existing ones in the half-ring. On the right hand wheel (on your left as you face the vehicle), use the shorter of the two metal pieces across the bottom... from about 9 o'clock to 3 o'clock. The slightly longer one goes over the top. Since you are a Land Rover owner and would be insulted if I stated the obvious... you will need to look at how the holes line up and make suitable modifications to the piece so that the bolts line up. This will involve elongating a couple of holes and drilling a couple more. It will also involve grinding about 1/4 inch off the top metal bracket at the 3 o'clock position. You will also have to grind a small section out of one piece at about the 8 o'clock position to allow it to clear the wheel stop bolt. Once the pieces are lined up, you are ready to install the leather pieces. First, remove the three bolts along the bottom (they are at about 8, 6 and 4 o'clock around the swivel ball.) When you undo these, you will get some oil leakage unless you hold your thumb on the retaining ring at about the 6 O'clock position. Now, line up the holes on the leather piece with the holes on the metal ring. You will probably need to punch at least one new hole. Position the leather, too, so that the seam you will later stitch up is at the rear (three O'clock position). Then, bolt the half-ring into place and fold the flap over the top of the axle and out of your way. Then, remove the three top bolts and attach the leather piece under the top half-ring so that it is secured all around. (I know, this is a very hard process to visualize when written out, but if you own a Defender, you will be able to figure out this process very quickly... really.) Now, lace the leather up in back. It will be easier if you start the engine and turn the wheel all the way to the left. Lace the gaiters in an X pattern, overlapping the leather so that the holes on the top flap go over the top of the first set of holes on the bottom flap. Then lace in an X pattern and tie off. Finally, take the hose clamp and install it right next to the large flange that connects the swivel ball assembly to the axle housing. The flange will have about 8 large bolts through it, and you want to get the clamp as close to these bolts as possible. Put the screw at 6 o'clock facing forward. Tighten until almost completely tight, start the engine again and thrn the wheels lock to lock a couple of times. Then, make sure the leather is not bunched up or snagged anywhere. Then, turn the engine off and tighten the hose clamp the rest of the way. The other wheel is about the same as the first... but requires grinding and drilling holes in different places. Again, you are Land Rover owners... you'll know what to do. Finally, slap a little (ok, a lot) more grease on the outside and rub it in. Do this a couple of times in the first week or two and make extra efforts to drive down dusty roads... the coating of dust on the outside will help seal the gaiters even further. So, apart from the cutting, drilling and grinding, the process for installing gaiters on a D90 is about the same as it is for a Series LR or any other LR product. But, contrary to what I had been told, it *is* possible to fit gaiters onto a D90 and, IMHO, well worth the time and effort. Cheers, R. P. Reid ------------------------------[ <- Message 11 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950801 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 31 Jul 95 15:57:09 -0500 From: "John B. Friedman" <johannes@scribes.english.uiuc.edu> Subject: Discovery at 2000 miles Anyone interested in milage and gas in Discovery? I just finished putting 2000 miles on mine, 1600 mile trip to Pennsylvania, mostly flat freeway but some mountains, 18% grades and some long ones. The car ran perfectly, no problems except the occasional strange epileptic right turn signal fast flashing in hot weather. I don't know if I have actual flashing bulbs then or not. But clearly the bulbs are not defective as they work the rest of the time. In steady freeway driving through Indiana and Ohio I began to get 22.4 at 65(no air on) and using cruise control. I was picking up almost a mile per gallon to a tankful as the car broke in. I noticed that this went down considerably with the air on, perhaps as much as 2-3 miles a gallon. Also that at 55-60 with no cruise I only got 21.9, so cruise definitely helps. City driving gives 12-13 MPG with air on. This driving done using plus grade, 89 octane(often the cheapest I could find) with no difference in performance between it and premium that I could sense. There was certainly no pinging on the long grades. The car is very slow up hills and went up 18% er in 2d gear. This may be its weight or just that it is still pretty tight. No oil leaks, and oil looked pretty clean. I did notice a lot of brake pad powder on the front wheels after 2000 miles and think the pads may either be seating in or will wear quickly. I did little braking and that gently, so think again it is the weight of the car. Be warned not to stuff anything under the passenger's seat, as the space is inviting but there is a relay there--perhaps in the amp--which can be moved out of its socket easily. ------------------------------[ <- Message 12 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950801 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Leland J Roys <roys@hpkel13.cup.hp.com> Subject: Trailer Light Date: Mon, 31 Jul 95 14:16:29 PDT Trailer Light ------------- Starting last week, when I use the turn signal (left or right), the panel light with the trailer picture will flash along with the turn signal light. It will flash only 1 time, and then only the turn signal flashes. I do not have a trailer connected, and I checked all the turn signal lights and they are all OK. Does anybody know why this is happening (The truck is a 1994 Def-90 bought about 3 months ago). Leland J. Roys Cupertino, California '94 Defender 90 (Red) roys@hpkel13.cup.hp.com ------------------------------[ <- Message 13 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950801 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Russell G. Dushin" <dushinrg@pr.cyanamid.com> Subject: def110 sale Date: Mon, 31 Jul 95 17:49:15 EDT As seen in yesterday's NY Times: Defender 110, 38K miles, $36,500, or was it the other way around.... something like that, anyway. Seen in the out of town addition. At least it wasn't outrageous. rgds, rd/nigel ------------------------------[ <- Message 14 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950801 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 31 Jul 95 15:09:37 -0700 From: Jimi Patel <jimi@voyager.Jpl.Nasa.Gov> Subject: This fellow Sam has Rover spirit in him, would you agree ?? Status: RO ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- IN THE GOOD OLD DAYS GONE BY JPL as I once knew it Sam Brunstein At Jpl today, problem solving is complex. If something goes wrong with a piece of spacecraft hardware, the person noticing the problem writes a Problem/Failure Report (PFR). The seriousness of the problem is evaluated by several internal agencies. If the problem is significant the PFR is referred to a Material Review Board (MRB) for evaluation and a recommended solution. If the Project approves the MRB recommendation, the Cognizant Engineer fixes the problem. The phone woke me up. I looked at the clock -- 2 a.m. Not good. "Sam?" said the voice. "Uh" said I. "It's Tom at the Spacecraft Assembly Facility." "What's up, Tom?" "One of my guys bumped your antenna with his head, and he bent one of those little wires that stick out, bent it over about half-way. What should I do?" Now I was awake. "I don't know. I'll come and look." This spacecraft had two antennas. One was a low-gain that sprayed radio-waves in nearly all directions but the waves weren't very strong. The other antenna was the high-gain. It focused the radio-waves into a powerful beam. Both antennas were fastened to the body of the craft so they pointed where the spacecraft was pointed. Throughout the last half of the flight the high-gain antenna would point to the earth, and when the ship got to Mars it would provide the strong signal that allowed fast data transfer to earth. But during the first half of the flight the spaceship was at the wrong angle and only the wide-angle low- gain antenna could talk with the earth. Even in the last half of the mission, if the craft lost its pointing stabilization the high-gain antenna would point the wrong way. The low-gain antenna would be needed to receive commands to help get the ship out of trouble. My antenna was the low-gain antenna. It was important that it work right. This antenna was really mine, all the way down my gut. I dreamt it up, designed it, built it, tested it, and delivered it to the spacecraft assembly crew. For two years I lived with this baby every day, and I mean every day. Ten hours a day, seven days a week. For the last year of the development I had pieces of that antenna in my hand every day. I knew what it looked like, what it felt like, and what it smelled like. I knew this thing with its clothes off. It was MINE. I was its Cognizant Engineer, Bob Thomas was its midwife, and Bill Layman was its mother. job. I worked with the mission designers to develop the requirements for it. Then I designed it. There were countless hours of cut-and-try with Bob Thomas on the Mesa Antenna Range. We didn't use computers for this kind of design. My timeshare segment of the mainframe computer was 64 kilobits. Good for some stuff, but not for solving megapoint vector equations. Nowadays we would design it on a PC. The design led to a shining, hollow tube of aluminum, about four inches across and six feet long. The metal skin had to be very thin and lightweight, yet the shaft had to be almost perfectly round. Building that sucker was a real challenge, but we had a talented mechanical engineer. Bill Layman solved all the problems. By the time that antenna was ready to be delivered, there were three or four of us that had a very personal interest in its welfare. After I went through the clean-room rain dance, I ignored the Test Team and walked straight to the spacecraft and my antenna. At the top of the antenna there were sixteen thin aluminum wires about three inches long sticking straight out from the tube. These were needed to make the radio-waves go in exactly the right directions. One of them was bent down about 45 degrees. No catastrophe, but worrisome. If it broke off in space, would the radio waves go way off course? Not likely, but it would have some effect. If it broke off in space would it interfere with some other part of the ship? Maybe. Nobody knew for certain. We had a spare antenna. But putting a spare onto a spaceship that was halfway through testing is a big deal. A lot of stuff has to be unscrewed to get at things, and there is plenty of opportunity to damage more equipment. It's a risk. I got a magnifying glass and looked closely at the base of the bent wire. I didn't see any cracks. I reached out and bent it back where it belonged then looked again. Still no cracks. "Fly it," I said, and went home to bed. Slept like a log. They flew it. It worked. Mariner IV passed by Mars in July of 1965. It sent back 21 television pictures of the planet, using the high-gain antenna. During flight, the spacecraft did have problems with its attitude stabilization. The low-gain antenna was used to correct the problems. ------------------------------[ <- Message 15 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950801 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 31 Jul 1995 15:08:20 +0100 From: cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine) Subject: Re: D90 Gaiters R. Pierce Reid <PREID@csi.compuserve.com> writes: >Start by slathering the leather pieces generously with axle grease, especially >on the inside (thr rough side). Work it in with your hands... saturate the >leather well. Then, go have a few beers and leave the project overnight so the >leather can soak up the grease. This is important as it helps waterproof the >leather and if the leather is not water resistant, it becomes (you guessed it) >water absorbant. You know what that will do... R. P., I enjoyed your novella on Rover gaiters. Since you said that real men don't read instructions, I'll throw yours away so that next timed I install gaiters they will be 'lost' :) Not to be picky, but isn't the leather supposed to be 'primed' with vaseline instead of axle grease? Did you by chance make a copy of the leather pattern before installing it (Several people on the net --especially New Zealanders and Australians where sheep outnumber women 100:1 -- expressed an interest in fabricating their own from leather and other readily available parts)? What is your opinion regarding the issue of gaiters actually contributing to the deterioration of swivel balls by retaining moisture and mud debris, etc (I favor gaiters myself, but..). Michael Carradine, Architect <cs@crl.com> Ph/Fax 510-988-0900 .plan available _________________________________________________________________________ Mercedes-Benz Unimog 4x4 WWW page at: http://www.crl.com/~cs/unimog.html ------------------------------[ <- Message 16 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950801 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: LANROVEFN@aol.com Date: Mon, 31 Jul 1995 18:51:18 -0400 Subject: Land Rover Model Cars I attended a model car show in Parsippany NJ yesterday and was very disappointed at the lack of quality Land Rover models out there. It seemed there was everything but Land Rovers. I found an old Dinky 109 and a few Range Rovers that looked like they came out of the 5 & 10. However they did have an obscure replica of the Howmet Turbine car that cost $200. Thoughts and comments please. Mike Schmidt 94 Disco ------------------------------[ <- Message 17 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950801 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 31 Jul 1995 17:52:02 -0500 From: jsavage@elephant.com (James Savage) Subject: Electrical problem? I've been having what seems to be an electrical problem with my '90 County. My cruise control functions erradically. Half the time it works fine, the other half I am unable to get the cruise control main gateway to operate properly. When I depress the cruise control main gateway switch, the button does not illuminate and the cruise control is not operational. When I then switch off the gateway I get the "Service Engine" light on the dash. Any help would be greatly appreciated, James - = - = - = - = - = - = - = - = - = - = - = - = - = - = - = - = - = - James Savage Systems Integrator Pachyderm, LLC Phone: (414)784-2466 333 Bishops Way Suite 144 Fax: (414)784-8373 Brookfield, WI 53005 Email: jsavage@pchydrm.com Visit our Web site: http://www.pchydrm.com - = - = - = - = - = - = - = - = - = - = - = - = - = - = - = - = - = - ------------------------------[ <- Message 18 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950801 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 31 Jul 95 16:08:57 PDT From: "Mark Talbot" <mtalbot@InterServ.Com> Subject: Re: LR ICON WWW site needed All, Having trouble with this icon even with UUCODE, anyone help me get it to a WEB SITE ? Mark ------------------------------[ <- Message 19 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950801 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: LANDROVER@delphi.com Date: Mon, 31 Jul 1995 19:34:49 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: Discovery Door Locks Mark asks about locks... > Just bought a '95 Discovery and have a question about the door locks. > When I use the key or remote to unlock the doors, all five doors unlock. / > For me at work, this isn't a problem. If my wife take the Discovery to > class (gets out a 9:30 pm) and thinks someone is by the vehicle, all > five doors unlocking is not good. Am I missing something? How o I get > just the drivr's door to unlock? / Easy to fix. I'll trade you even - Your Disco for my '65 IIa SWB Station Wagon. One key for the drivers door, one key for the rear door, no key for the passengers door (the lock is on the inside). All the locks work fine. And none of those stinkin' electronic gizmo's to give you trouble! :) > thanks, > Mark Murphy > '95 white 5spd cloth Discovery - 5 days old, ~4600 lbs / Cheers Mike Loiodice '65 green 4spd IIa - 30 years old, 2900 lbs ------------------------------[ <- Message 20 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950801 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: JDolan2109@aol.com Date: Mon, 31 Jul 1995 19:51:55 -0400 Subject: Long story made short? Tom Rowe Wrote: If you already are doing a valve job, then by all means make the conversion then. But even if you don't, I doubt that you would even notice it over the life of your car. And I thought LR's were immortal!! (Cars? Maybe he posted to the wrong list?) '''''''''''''''' Re: Pink Panthers: Call me a conservative but- I'd try Thompson's at first. Adequate, reliable and easy to service in the field. See 'ya on the old road... Jim '61 88" SW / OD, 1 Bbl weber & 16's (econobox?) LR....quite possibly one of the best machines yet devised! ------------------------------[ <- Message 21 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950801 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 31 Jul 1995 17:33:59 -0700 From: jory@org.org (jory bell) Subject: Re: 5 speeds for LR Greg Hiner wrote: :Advance Adapters in the US 805 238-7000 fax 805 238-4201 imports an adapted :heavy duty Nissan 4 & 5 speed transmission from Mark's 4WD Adaptors in :Australia (03-793-3388) that is modified to bolt directly to the LR :transfer case. Bellhousings available for Holden 6 cylinder, Ford 6 :cylinder, Range Rover and Leyland V8s and Isuzu Diesels (as well as Nissan :diesels). At the time when I got the info (1994) there was no bellhousing :available for the 2.25. They were supposed to come out with one soon :however. Though the transmission bolts directly to the transfer case I do :believe that it is longer than the original 4 speed so you will need to :shift the engine forward. Thanks Greg! I called Advanced Adapters, and after first denying any knowledge of the 5-speed, they located a Mark's 4wd catalog and gave me minimal info. I ended up calling Mark's 4wd directly. They do not have a bell housing for the 2.25 liter engine, and according to the person I spoke with, they are not going to be producing one. They didn't know of anyone else who might procuce or sell such a beast (ie any 5-speed conversion to go with the original engine). I tried calling Roverworks (someone said thy had dome some LT77 conversions) and received no reply to my messages (they do mention in their outgoing message that you should be patient, but longer than a week?). I left a second message after 10 days, but am not holding my breath... Any other pointers to 5-speed conversions for a series vehicle, with 2.25 liter petrol engine? Preferrably one that doesn't require moving the engine forward (although cutting driveshafts is fine). Maybe I am just out of luck on this one... In any case, I am worknig towards repairing my current 4-speed gearbox (it had lost access to 3rd and 4th gears). My gearbox, xfer case, od, seatbase, etc... are all on my floor now. I noticed some oil in the bellhousing, which I think is coming from the engine, so I guess I'll be replacing the rear main seal on the engine (the current seal was from DAP and installed 5 years ago, FWIW). I guess I might as well fit a new clutch while I am in there. Fun, fun. -jory ------------------------------[ <- Message 22 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950801 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU> Date: Mon, 31 Jul 1995 20:12:45 GMT -0600 Subject: Re: D90 Gaiters Snip > instead of axle grease? Did you by chance make a copy of the leather pattern > before installing it (Several people on the net --especially New Zealanders > and Australians where sheep outnumber women 100:1 -- expressed an interest in > fabricating their own from leather and other readily available parts)? What Snip Michael, Are you, per chance, looking for the pattern? When I installed new ones on LR for a customer some years back, I had a pattern made at a leather shop while I was getting some more made (on the theory that one day I'd want to replace mine). It's a nice pattern, made from 1/16th inch plastic sheet, quite durable. Tom Tom Rowe UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research 608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578 trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck in places even more inaccessible. ------------------------------[ <- Message 23 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950801 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 31 Jul 1995 18:12:49 +0100 From: cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine) Subject: USA LR Parts (Was: DAP experiences) Jimi Patel <jimi@voyager.Jpl.Nasa.Gov> writes: >Can you please e-mail me DAP's phone number. I would like to convey the fellow >rover-net members ... Have you tried to get parts from England for 20/30 year [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)] >really doing us a service providing parts and technical information and what >nots. A small amount of dis-service ought not warrant a bad label on DAP. Agreed!! Here is DAP's phone as well as the other major L-Rover parts houses in the US that keep these aluminum workhorses on and off the road. AB Atlantic British Ltd. Ph. 800-533-2210 Orders PO Box 110 Ph. 518-664-6169 Mechanicville, NY 12118 Fax 518-664-6641 ABC Atlantic British Parts of California* PO Box 620 Ph. 916-778-3937 Lewiston, CA 96052 Fax 916-778-3937 BP British Pacific Ltd. Ph. 800-554-4133 Orders 3317 Burton Avenue Ph. 818-841-8945 Burbank, CA 91504 Fax 818-841-3825 DAP D.A.P. Enterprises, Inc* Ph. 802-885-6660 86 Clinton Street Fax 802-885-6662 Springfield, VT 05156 RN Rovers North, Inc Ph. 802-879-0032 Route 128 Fax 802-879-9152 Westford, VT 05494-9601 *Atantic British of California and D.A.P. Inc. are now affiliated, and have assimilated British Rovers formerly in Cavendish, VT. As you say, "Use them or lose them". Really! Michael Carradine, Architect <cs@crl.com> Ph/Fax 510-988-0900 .plan available _________________________________________________________________________ Mercedes-Benz Unimog 4x4 WWW page at: http://www.crl.com/~cs/unimog.html ------------------------------[ <- Message 24 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950801 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU> Date: Mon, 31 Jul 1995 20:20:55 GMT -0600 Subject: Re: Land Rover Model Cars Snip > replica of the Howmet Turbine car that cost $200. Thoughts and comments > please. Mike, That reminds me. The new Squadron Shop catalog lists two new Land Rover models for about $10 ea. They are in 1/76 scale I think. Minitank also produced a Land Rover some years back. Silly me, I never bought any even though I collected Minitanks as a kid. Tom Tom Rowe UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research 608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578 trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck in places even more inaccessible. ------------------------------[ <- Message 25 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950801 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU> Date: Mon, 31 Jul 1995 20:29:31 GMT -0600 Subject: Re: Long story made short? J. Dolan wrote: > Tom Rowe Wrote: > If you already are doing a valve job, then by all means make the conversion [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)] > And I thought LR's were immortal!! (Cars? Maybe he posted to the wrong list?) > '''''''''''''''' Jim, I at times refer to my LR as a car, truck, Rover, The Antichrist/Beast. Quite a few things, but NEVER a jeep. In case you were wondering. :-) Seriously though, since I suspect most of the people on this list own vehicles other than LR's, I was speaking generically. Tom Tom Rowe UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research 608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578 trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck in places even more inaccessible. ------------------------------[ <- Message 26 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950801 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 31 Jul 1995 19:12:33 +0100 From: cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine) Subject: Re: Gaiters/Gaitors Tom Rowe <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU> writes: >Are you, per chance, looking for the pattern? When I installed new ones on LR >for a customer some years back, I had a pattern made at a leather shop while >I was getting some more made (on the theory that one day I'd want to replace >mine). It's a nice pattern, made from 1/16th inch plastic sheet, quite >durable. No and yes! I'm Roverless at the moment, an affliction I hope to cure someday. I would certainly install gaitors given the chance, as were on my Series III, and even construct them myself. I should have copied or at least measured mine before installing them (hindsight is always 20/20). What I'd like to do is measure the pattern and make it available on the Web for those do-it-your-selfers. It's not terribly complicated, really. (Maybe you'd trace your pattern on a newspaper and send it to me?) BTW- Is it "gaiters" or "gaitors"?? Michael Carradine, Architect <cs@crl.com> Carradine Studios, PO Box 99, Orinda, CA 94563 USA Ph/Fax 510-988-0900 _________________________________________________________________________ Mercedes-Benz Unimog 4x4 WWW page at: http://www.crl.com/~cs/unimog.html ------------------------------[ <- Message 27 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950801 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
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