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The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

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From: Mr Ian Stuart <Ian.Stuart@ed.ac.uk>
Date:          Mon, 17 Jul 1995 09:27:00 +0000
Subject:       Re: A test to see which address chops the bottom off

On 14 Jul 95, Charlie Wright wrote:

> >Royal (Dick) School of Veterinary Studies, Edinburgh University.
> They were both like this

They should have been:

     ----** Ian Stuart (Computing Officer)        +44 31 650 6205
Royal (Dick) School of Veterinary Studies, Edinburgh University. 
 <http://www.vet.ed.ac.uk/> or <http://www.tardis.ed.ac.uk/~kiz/>

Therefor, I assume that it's majordomo that's killing the bottom two 
lines, not the recipient address (which could actually be the same 
machine :-).

PS I've added a couple of line-feeds to the end of my .sig - so we'll see 
what this ones like....

     ----** Ian Stuart (Computing Officer)        +44 31 650 6205
Royal (Dick) School of Veterinary Studies, Edinburgh University. 
 <http://www.vet.ed.ac.uk/> or <http://www.tardis.ed.ac.uk/~kiz/>

------------------------------

From: Andrew Grafton <A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk>
Subject: A little learning experience...
Date: Mon, 17 Jul 95 12:01:03 BST

Was pottering down to High Wycombe this weekend when the SIII 109"
started producing a horrible screetching noise from the gearbox.
The noise was speed-related, with the frequency of screetching
varying directly with speed, and independent of which gear was
selected.

Stopped, checked oil levels (fine) and continued journey.  
Screetch, screeeeeeetch, squeak, squak, screetch.

Turned up stereo, reduced speed, drove another 65 miles
to destination.

Before I left to come home I had a good look about to see 
what the problem was...  Imagine how pleased I was when
it turned out that the rear propshaft bolts (front and
rear) were either missing or finger-tight.  Phew!  I
thought the gearbox had gone.  Now I've replaced them
and a two more problems have been solved;  the beast
no longer pops out of second, no matter how hard I try,
and the clutch has stopped juddering.

Not much else to say, except that the off-road show in
West Wycombe was really not very good, and that I am too
knackered to try and make this interesting!

Re: the beer discussion...  Perhaps the beer/oil
relationship chart could work both ways - for those
who have more experience of beer than oil it would
be an excellent way of telling which oil they
have been sold.

All the best,

Andy
A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk
<cr>

P.S. Mike I have your oil but it needs decanting - I'll try and
     decant it tonight (unless you *want* 25L of EP90!)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Jul 1995 15:26:14 +0200
From: Peter Kutschera <peter@zditr1.arcs.ac.at>
Subject: Re: Koenig Winch

Dixon Kenner wrote:
:) >    If anyone has a picture/drawings of the winch, please E-mail me direct
:) > with details-I'll galdly pay postage and developing/photocopying fees as I
:) > currently have no info on this piece of equipment.
:) 	<argh>  I just moved this last week.  The operating & parts manuals
:) 	for both the crank & pto versions are buried in a mountain of 

Hello!
If you find the papers:
I have a Koenig 44500 connected to the gearbox where an overdrive should be.
I don't have any papers/descriptions.

If you would be so nice to send me a copy maybe i can connect the winch to the 
crank and use an overdrive. 

Let me know if you can find out how much sending of the papers would cost
so i can send you some $ for mail and copying.

Thanks, Peter
Signature: http://zditr1.arcs.ac.at/~peter
--------

------------------------------

From: Russell Burns <burns@cisco.com>
Subject: Re: Misc.
Date: Mon, 17 Jul 95 7:01:14 PDT

 There is a reset button under the drivers seat? (I will have to
confirm) anyway under one of the seats is a relay box with a landrover
sticker covering a hole. I used a paper clip to reset the
light.

I have noticed that my rotors are quite worn @ 60K miles. I have also
noted that brake pads and rotors are about the same price.

Russ BUrns
D-90
91 R-Rover
> To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net

	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 28 lines)]
> lot of metal removal!  Do these vehicle eat rotors?
> Thanks
> Kelly Minnck  '73 88" Safari & '91 RR

------------------------------

From: Russell Burns <burns@cisco.com>
Subject: 1995 US National Rally (fwd)
Date: Mon, 17 Jul 95 7:09:45 PDT

Here are the details, thanks to Tom Mills, who I
assume will be attending in full middle east attire again...

Russ

Forwarded message:
>From lro-owner@uk.stratus.com Fri Mar 10 23:54 PST 1995
From: "T.F. Mills" <tomills@du.edu>
Subject: 1995 US National Rally
Date: Sat, 11 Mar 1995 00:46:26 -0700 (MST)
X-Mailer: ELM [version 2.4 PL23]
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Length: 1563      

Solihull Society members and friends should be receiving notice of the US 
National Rally any moment now.  It is not actually billed as the 
"national rally", but rather a celebration of the 25th anniversary of the 
Range Rover.  Y'all will be among the first to receive this invitation.

Rovers North and British Pacific are co-sponors with Solihull Society.

It will be held 15-20 August in Breckinridge, Colorado.

Features include:  trail rides (including Red Cone Pass and Radical Hill),
town parade, social events, historic tours, driving tests and games,
picnics and cookouts, banquet, raffle, prizes.

Accommodations include condos, hotels, B&B, camping.

Event is limited to first 40 vehicles to register!  R.S.V.P.:
Greg Chernushin, 1-800-383-5886
Peter Taylor, 1-800-332-6647, or 303-453-4458

Accomodation and event details will be mailed to registered participants 
in March.

There is no mention of cost, but I will pass that on as soon as I hear 
(or you can call the organizers).

This is the fourth consecutive year that the Solihull Society has hosted 
an ORGASM (Organized Rover Gathering in America's Scenic Mountains).  You 
can find accounts and photos of the '92 rally by Susan McCasland in the 
Nov. 1992 LROI, and of the '94 rally by yours truly in the Dec. 1994 LRW.

... well, I had better register before y'all beat me to it.

T. F. Mills                                              tomills@du.edu
University of Denver Library  2150 E. Evans Ave.  Denver  CO 80208  USA
      http://mercury.cair.du.edu/~tomills (under construction)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Jul 95 07:14:18 PDT
From: mtalbot@InterServ.Com (Mark Talbot)
Subject: Re: 88' Range Rovers 

All, 

Read the thread regarding early Range Rovers. I have an 88 and have to add the 
following : 

Parts, they can be expensive, get them from the UK. 

Engines, As long as the oil is chnged on a reqular basis, things work fine. 
It's vital to keep the oil as clean as possible becuase of the hydraulic 
tappets. Most engines can go to at least 150,000 miles before any major work 
is required. 

I have had a 88 RR for 2 years ang have over 60,000 on it. Besides some 
niggling problems, the thing has been basically reliable. 

Build quality, This leaves a lot to be desired, and if I had paid the original 
asking price, over $35,000 then I would have been unhappy. I'm looking to get 
another RR, and this time I'm looking for a 91-92 model.  

Mark 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Jul 1995 10:21:03 -0400
From: rvirzi@gte.com (Robert A. Virzi)
Subject: Lucas strikes in a Discovery!

Take heart, all you series owners out there, Lucas is alive and lurking in
newer Solihull products, if this weekend is any clue.  Now granted, this
reports a very minor occurence, hardly one to stop the beast, but perhaps
it foreshadows electrical joys to come (in 20 -30 years).

It was hot this weekend, temperatures peaking close to 100F.  I found that
when I left my disco out in this heat, the left blinker started behaving
rather oddly 'till it had a chance to cool down.  Normally, when one
indicates a turn (and, yes, we do ocassionally do so in Massachusetts :-)
the cheery little trailer icon comes on, followed by the reassuring
"ka-thunk Blump.  Ka-thunk Blump."  This satisfying little sequence played
out for all my right turns, but not for left turns.  Seems as though the
heat had fried old Joe's brain, making him all skittery.  No happy little
trailer icon at all.  And a very staccato "BlipBlupBlipBlup" replaced the
reassuring "ka-thunk Blump.  Ka-thunk Blump."

There is a question here.  While this malady was more of an endearing quirk
than a serious problem, other electrical bugaboos aren't.  Any speculation
as to what part of the Lucas-supplied components were at fault?  I like to
check the wiring, at least, looking for loose connections but I don't
really have a clue where to start.

Bob Virzi

  rvirzi@gte.com             Think Globally. ===
  +1(617)466-2881                            === Act Locally!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Jul 95 07:23:45 PDT
From: steve gross <sgross@enet.net>
Subject: RE: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

Kelly:

The service engine light indicates a problem with the ecu.  On later model vehicles, there is a small plastic box with a 
led indicator inside it (it is hard to see the led in bright light) that will indicate the fault code i.e.- 48 is for base idle.  This 
box is located next to the ecu in the D90.  To clear the fault code and reset the light, disconnect the main connector 
from the ecu and reconnect it (with the ignition off).  There will be another code displayed when you turn the ignition 
back on for the first time indicating a reset has occurred- error code 02 I think... after that, no error code.  You will need 
a service manual to tell you what each error code means.  Correct the problem and the service engine light will stay off. 
Some of the possible problems are:  O2 sensors, road speed transducer, throttle position indicator, stepper motor, 
airflow sensor, base idle adjustment, mixture adjustment, etc.

-steve

Stephen C. Gross
Pilot B737
America West Airlines

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Jul 95 07:31:15 PDT
From: steve gross <sgross@enet.net>
Subject: RE: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest 

Kelly-

Regarding the service engine light- I was wrong- I thought you meant the check engine light.  To reset the check engine 
light, locate a small plastic box behind the speedometer.  This box has a Land Rover sticker on it.  Remove the sticker and 
you will find a small hole in the box.  Insert a small screwdiver in the hole and push the reset button.  

-steve

Stephen C. Gross
Pilot B737
America West Airlines

------------------------------

From: Russell Burns <burns@cisco.com>
Subject: Re: 1995 US National Rally (fwd)
Date: Mon, 17 Jul 95 8:24:11 PDT

Sorry Todd...
It has been a tough morning..
> To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net

	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 58 lines)]
> T. F. Mills                                              tomills@du.edu
> University of Denver Library  2150 E. Evans Ave.  Denver  CO 80208  USA
>       http://mercury.cair.du.edu/~tomills (under construction)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Jul 1995 09:59:59 -0700
From: growl@hsmpk14a-101.Eng.Sun.COM (William L. Grouell)
Subject: Re: Valve guide seal replacement

> What is needed, in reflection, is an L-shaped tool 
> that will depress the springs in a proper manner. Has anyone out there ever 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> devised or heard of such a tool? It sure would save much wasted time.
> Walter Pokines

   K-D tools (among others) makes a spring compressor that works from one side. It has two hooks that reach around either side of the spring and grab the next
to last coil. You the compress the spring by screwing a little hand wheel. 
No sweat. Cheap. Works. Get one.

R, bg

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Jul 1995 10:27:47 -0700
From: matts@caciasl.com (Matt Snyder)
Subject: RR service engine light

I believe the exact meaning of the service engine light varies from year to 
year, but by using the shop manual, I was able to trace to wiring of the 
light in my '88 RR, and I determined that it indicates only that the 
emissions system is due for it's periodic inspection.

-Matt
San Diego

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Jul 1995 10:34:01 -0700
From: matts@caciasl.com (Matt Snyder)
Subject: RR service engine light

I might add that on mine the light is one of six modular-type lights in the 
center console, and it was an easy matter to pry it out and disconnect the 
ground lead, thereby alleviating the need to find the box for resetting.

-Matt
San Diego

------------------------------

From: Brian Neill Tiedemann <s914440@minyos.xx.rmit.EDU.AU>
Subject: Swivel Balls...
Date: Tue, 18 Jul 1995 03:36:53 +1000 (EST)

Charlie,
My RR has what sounds to be a very similar arrangement to the Stage 1. 
The axle runs from the diff end spline, through an oil seal pressed in to 
the inside (housing) side of the flange of the swivel ball (NOT blue!), 
then through a smallish bronze bushing which rides in the back of the 
cupped section of the ball between a machined face in the ball and a step 
up in diameter of the axle (prior to the finer splined outer end which 
rides in the CV). If memory serves me, the heavier (24 spline at both 
ends) axles which I have put into the front some time ago do not have any 
provision for such a bushing, and so are supported by only the CV. 
Perhaps if you have the Stage 1 inner axles, see if there is a step in 
them with a small bearing surface and a thrust surface, near to the finer 
splined outer end. I remember that when my original axles were in, the 
bushings always were left on the axles when apart- convenient I guess. 
Perhaps if you have not already noticed, Check that there are not in fact 
bushings sitting on yours- never know. If there is no apparent step then 
I would assume that it's OK to use the setup as is- CV will support it, 
and should not complain at doing so- loads should only be rotational anyhow.
If you picture the setup in operation, the axle MUST remain centrally 
aligned as long as the wear in the CV ball bearings is not enough to 
allow excessive runout.
BTW if step is there and no bush, RR (early) may be the same, and I can 
find a part # if you need it.

Just finished setting up a complete "RR simulator" on the test bench. 
OZ 86-89 EFI computer
Adjustable simulated inputs for: Throttle Position, Temp, Air Temp, Air 
Flow, Vac Switch, Thermo-time Switch.
Signal generator driving electronic ignition module to provide spark input.
Indicators and loads on all outputs- Injectors, Overrun cut, cold start etc.

About to start testing and mapping functionality. Hope no smoke!!
(first stage of developing the brain to drive my 5 litre's respiration 
system.... Info gained will be available soon for any interested)

cheers
BT.
77 RR(drooling)
 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Jul 95 10:52:19 PDT
From: rlarson@lsil.com (Rick Larson)
Subject: Fixing D90 winch induced spring sag

After installing an ARB bumber and Warn 9000lb winch, the front end of my
D90 sagged about 3/4".  I'm looking to correct this.  Inquiries to Rovers North
suggested D110 springs and Bilstiens.  Everyone else ( West Coast British,
ARB, British Pacific ) suggested the ARB Old Man Emu aftermarket springs
and shocks or alternatively Old Man Emu springs with Bilstiens.

All seemed to have varing opinions on how much lift (if any) over the stock
D90 any of the discussed modifications would provide.  The most common
response was along the lines of: "We've done this to a clients D90 and they
seem to have been pleased with the results."

I've also read the "Four Wheeler" article on D90 suspension.  (The article was
really a article on installing the Old Man Emu springs and shocks with a
couple general comments on D90 suspensions.)  Interestingly enough, none
of the places I called, knew, or agreed with the alternatives
to the Emu kit mentioned in a side bar article in "Four Wheeler".  

These were:
	using the higher rated rear D90 coils in the front.  
 	using softer pre air-suspension rear Range Rover coils in the rear.

I'm looking for general comments, experiences, and alternatives to 
either the D110 spring or Old Man Emu spring solution.  I'd be real 
interested in opinions or experiences on the quality and engineering of the
Old Man Emu springs and shocks.

Thanks,

-Rick

Richard Larson
LSI Logic Corporation
(408) 433-7149

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Jul 95 11:22:45 MST
From: DEBROWN@SRP.GOV
Subject: Disco exhaust bolts...

FROM:  David Brown                           Internet: debrown@srp.gov
       Computer Graphics Specialist * Mapping Services & Engr Graphics
       PAB219 (602)236-3544 -  Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486
SUBJECT: Disco exhaust bolts...
My exhaust bolts came loose too. 1st time, I had dealer tighten, 2nd
time I tightened them myself and noticed that 1 of the 3 bolts on each
side was missing.

Why don't they snug them any tighter, or use locktite???

#=======#                Never doubt that a small group of individuals
|__|__|__\___            can change the world... indeed, it's the only
| _|  |   |_ |}          thing that ever has.
"(_)""""""(_)"                                          -Margaret Mead

------------------------------

From: Easton Trevor <TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA>
Subject: Colorado
Date: Mon, 17 Jul 95 14:49:00 DST

Toronto Area Rover Club member Chris Procter is travelling to Colorado, 
specifically Durango, next week for the BMW annual convention. Thought he is 
travelling by 2x1 Paris Dakar Lightweight he would like to know of any Land 
Rover owners or events in the area or en route. If you know of anything 
Chris may be interested in or would like to meet a fellow Land Rover (Series 
I and Lightweight) owner, let me know  at "teaston@dqc2.dofasco.ca"

Thanks in advance

Trevor Easton and Miss Golightly

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Jul 95 14:41:40 EDT
From: tonyb@ejv.com (Tony Bromberg)
Subject: ATF change

Well it was time for me to change ATF fluid in my 89 RR.  Mechanicaly
incleined but armed with only the owners manual I've proceeded anyway.
First I went out to buy fluids, available only in qts. I had to convert
from metrics and came up with 9.6 qts for transmission.  So guess what,
when filling it up the transmission dipstick overflowed at only 8qts.
Under I went again and drained some of the good fluid out.

* Now you tell me, what is the exact capacity of the trans. if one drains
it from the pan only?

* And should I bother to change filter screen and O rings insided the trans?

* Also, spec says to use DexronII but III whas all I could find, is it safe to use?

I did however get the transverse gear change right, around 2+ qts.

Thanks,
Tony B

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Jul 1995 15:00:26 -0400
From: rvirzi@gte.com (Robert A. Virzi)
Subject: Photos from Downeast

Roverheads-

I had some snapshots from the Downeast rally earlier this month that are
looking for a home.  I just sent photogs to Bill and Ben, so let me know if
you don't get them.  I've got two photos of a green SIII, I believe,
distinguished by a white top and a bonnet mounted spare.  The license plate
is something like, ZBY-5845, but it is tough to make out.  These are of the
truck coming up the hillclimb on the tougher course, the one with the
tricky root.  Send me an address to claim the photos.

And as long as I've got your collective ears, I'd like to give a hearty
cheer for Miles who put on one hell of a show.  And also the guys at East
Coast Rover who helped a lot out on the course, and who helped me with some
field repairs.  Nice group that bunch!

-Bob Virzi

  rvirzi@gte.com             Think Globally. ===
  +1(617)466-2881                            === Act Locally!

------------------------------

From: Russell Burns <burns@cisco.com>
Subject: Re: Disco exhaust bolts...
Date: Mon, 17 Jul 95 12:07:32 PDT

This  is a lucas position finder. When lost offroad, just follow
nuts back home.
Russ
> To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net

	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 21 lines)]
> | _|  |   |_ |}          thing that ever has.
> "(_)""""""(_)"                                          -Margaret Mead

------------------------------

From: ScottFugate_Group8@ctdvns1.ctd.ornl.gov
Date: Mon, 17 Jul 95 15:36:46 EDT
Subject: Re:Land Rover Beer

Gang,

My vote for official Land Rover Beer: Old Peculiar.

This Yorkshire-brewed delicacy has a nice heavy gravity (viscosity?), and the 
rich, dark color of old gearbox EP90.  It has a sweeter taste than most of the 
nominations mentioned so far, but is not as sweet as say, McEwan's Scotch Ale 
(that stuff goes by a different name in the UK, but I can't remember it).  
Besides taste, an obvious strength is its name, which conjures up the true 
character of Series Land Rovers rather well, I think, as well as the nature of 
quite a few Series owners.

Cheers,

Scott Fugate
1970 IIA 88
1989 RR

------------------------------

Date: 17 Jul 95 15:29:51 EDT
From: <Simon_J_Wilson-Taylor@cmre.ccmail.compuserve.com>
Subject: Re: Heated Windscreens

>Because of difficulties in clearing condensation from my screen during the 
>autumn/winter I am considering fitting heated front screens to my SIIA.
>Does anybody have experience of these? Do they work? Do the fine wires 
>embedded in the screen affect vision badly?
     
     Some years ago I had to drive a company Ford, which had a heated front 
     screen.  I had no idea that they were now available on the 
     aftermarket, and would be very interested to know where you can get 
     them.
     
     The Ford screen was absolutely brilliant (can't say the same for the 
     rest of the car!).  Condensation cleared in seconds, ice took a little 
     longer.  The lines were visible if you looked at the screen, but 
     driving was no problem as your focal point should be a little further 
     ahead!....and you simply don't notice the wires.
     
     Simon Wilson-Taylor
     ___________________________
     1980 SIII Safari
     1995 D110 CSW

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Jul 95 14:30:08 -0500
From: "John B. Friedman" <johannes@scribes.english.uiuc.edu>
Subject: Bill Yerazunis( please read)

my mail to this address is bouncing. Bill Yerazunis  
<crash@concentra.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Jul 1995 12:37:11 +0100
From: cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine)
Subject: Re: ATF change

 tonyb@ejv.com (Tony Bromberg) writes:

>Well it was time for me to change ATF fluid in my 89 RR.  Mechanicaly
 incleined but armed with only the owners manual I've proceeded anyway.
 First I went out to buy fluids, available only in qts. I had to convert
 from metrics and came up with 9.6 qts for transmission.  So guess what,
 when filling it up the transmission dipstick overflowed at only 8qts.
 Under I went again and drained some of the good fluid out.
 .
>* Now you tell me, what is the exact capacity of the trans. if one drains
 it from the pan only?

 You may have done it right the first time.  Most automatic transmission
 fluid levels are measured with the oil hot (after a run), and with the
 engine still on.  They usually measure high when you pour them in cold
 or the transmission is cold.  Read your manual as to when to measure
 fluids.  (You could have also measured the oil you initially drained out.)
 

>* Also, spec says to use DexronII but III whas all I could find, is it
 safe to use?

 Yes, it's safe to use III in a II spec car.  III exceeds the specifications
 of II and is a better product.  Just don't use II in a III transmission.

 Michael Carradine   Carradine Studios                          cs@crl.com
 Architect           Architecture Development Planning    Pgr 510-945-5000
 NCARB RIBA          PO Box 99, Orinda, CA 94563 USA   Ph/Fax 510-988-0900

 Mercedes-Benz Unimog 4x4 WWW page at:  http://www.crl.com/~cs/unimog.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Jul 95 12:52:34 MST
From: DEBROWN@SRP.GOV
Subject: Re: Disco exhaust bolts...

FROM:  David Brown                           Internet: debrown@srp.gov
       Computer Graphics Specialist * Mapping Services & Engr Graphics
       PAB219 (602)236-3544 -  Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486
SUBJECT: Re: Disco exhaust bolts...
AAAAAAHHHHHHH!!!!! It's all starting to make sense now!!!
This explains MANY things!! Good ole "uncle Joe"! He thought of "everything"!
Thanks for the illumination!

>>From: Russell Burns <burns@cisco.com>

>>This  is a lucas position finder. When lost offroad, just follow
>>nuts back home.
>>Russ

> My exhaust bolts came loose too. 1st time, I had dealer tighten, 2nd
> time I tightened them myself and noticed that 1 of the 3 bolts on each
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
> side was missing.
> Why don't they snug them any tighter, or use locktite???

#=======#                Never doubt that a small group of individuals
|__|__|__\___            can change the world... indeed, it's the only
| _|  |   |_ |}          thing that ever has.
"(_)""""""(_)"                                          -Margaret Mead

------------------------------

From: hlapa@Zeus.signalcorp.com
Date: Mon, 17 Jul 95 15:45:32 EST
Subject: Powdercoating

All,

I have had a lot of powdercoating done, wheels, rear 
crossmember, other misc.  Some of the available materials 
are more weather-resistant than others.  Ask about this 
before getting this stuff baked onto your Rover bits.  My 
garage door handle (dull black) is holding up much better 
than my rear crossmember (also dull black, but a different 
formula apparently.  I'd go with the POR paint that's been 
the subject of recent postings, if possible.  It's easier to 
paint over old paint than over powdercoat. 

The genuine brushbar and rear ladder I just put on the 
wife's Disco appear to be powdercoated, so we'll see in a 
few years, though it will garaged most of the time.

Regards,
Hank ('60 Ser II)

------------------------------

Date: 17 Jul 95 17:51:25 EDT
From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com>
Subject: Re: misc. (RR questions)

> Question for RR owners:  I have a '91 RR.  The service engine light has just
> come on recently and stayed on.  I service the vehicle all the time.  What
> causes this light to come on?  

Well, I know from a relative of mine who owns a top-model BMW that on the
BMW, the service light stays on until the car actually *is* serviced and the
light is reset by the mechanic who enters some sort of code into the ECU
via the service computer interface to which the vehicle's electronics are
hooked. That way you can always tell whether the car has been given proper
workshop inspection. Of course if you insist on servicing it yourself you can
always smash the little bulb to extinguish it...
Now with the RR, I don't know if this is the same, I don't own such a recent
model. Could be a possibility, though.

> Do these vehicle eat rotors?

You bet. And the pads. And petrol, and...

Stefan
<Stefan R. Jacob, 100043.2400@CompuServe.com>

------------------------------

From: Guy Arnold <GUY@facade.adm.clarkson.edu>
Date: Mon, 17 Jul 1995 20:20:37 EDT
Subject: Condenser Failure

I finally put my 1973 Series III swb on the road the other day after 
a year of rebuilding and it ran great. After about a week of 
occasional driving  I was headed into town to attend a car show. 
Apparently the "Green Machine" wanted no part of a car show that did 
not have other Land-Rovers in it. I was motoring along pretty good, up 
to 
65mph on one stretch, and then  brought it back down to the speed 
limit 
for town and everything was clicking just fine when it was like 
someone turned a switch off. After towing the machine home and some 
checking of wires I found the condenser had *hit the bed. I have 
never had a condesner fail like that before especially one that was 
practically brand new. Has anyone else had a similar experience?
I put the "Green Machine" insurance on the same policy as my other 
vehicles. I told my agent that it was a 1973 Land-Rover Series III 
and when I got my insurance card from Allstate it said Range Rover. I 
tried to explain to my agent that in this case the chicken did come 
before the egg and that Land-rover was the company that builds Range 
Rovers. She said that when she enter my VIN in her Allstate computer 
it came back as Range Rover and they had no listing for Land-rover. I 
told her she might want to inform Allstate that there is a difference 
but she didn't seem to see the need. I guess the Series vehicles are 
not uppie enough for Allstate.

Guy Arnold
1973 Series III swb "Green Machine"
1972 Series III swb (almost sold)
1960 MGA 1600 (for show only)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Jul 1995 10:59:18 +0930
From: tiffanyd@tafe.sa.edu.au (Tiffany Downing)
Subject: International Subscription

G'day fellow Land Rover Owners!

It's Tiffany here.  I went to a committee meeting last night of the Land 
Rover Register of SA Inc, of which I am a member, to discuss International 
Membership.  The club is based in Goodwood in South Australia, AUSTRALIA.

Our club is the largest Land Rover's Only club in Australia (and until 
recently the only one) that will not accept members into the club if they do 
not own or part own a Land Rover (minimum of a chassis).

Our club has a very wide range of vehicles including:
Series I's, II's and III's, Forward Controls, Stage I's, County's (Petrol & 
Diesel), Defenders, Discoveries and Rangies.  At one stage we had a 90 but 
the owner was visiting from England and has now gone home.  (Hi Pete if your 
watching!!!)

The details of our International Membership are as follows:
* It is a family membership so all of your family become members

* You will be sent (By airmail) our club magazine on a monthly basis (there 
are 11 issues printed - we do not print a magazine in December). Every 
member is encouraged to contribute to the magazine.There is technical 
advise/ support, members stories, Land Rover Press Releases, Games 
(crosswords, etc), advertisements (members can advertise in the magazine 
free of charge) and lots more.

* You are welcome to participate in all club trips (if you come to visit us 
in Australia) including our trials, our fishing competition and our 
Christmas Party!!!!

* You will NOT have voting rights NOR be covered by our Club's public  
liability Insurance (for obvious reasons :-)

* You will belong to a fast growing club that operates solely for the  
promotion of Land Rovers.

If anyone is interested in joining, the fee is $45 Australian dollars 
(Bankdraft or Money Orders only accepted), however please feel free to ask 
more questions before you join.  An application form will soon be available 
via E-mail but for now I'll have to send you one via Snail-Mail.

Please send any mail with enquiries for membership, any questions, 
suggestions or whatever to:

tiffanyd@tafe.sa.edu.au

and I'll get back to you as soon as I can!  If you want to join send me your 
home address (but don't send any money yet we'll bill you!!  :-)
Only kidding you send the fee in with the application form.

Looking forward to getting to know some of you better (and your vehicles)!

Tiffany & Chris Downing (Series IIA - LWB, Soft Top, Ex-Army lookalike - 
looking to upgrade to a County if someone wants to give us one! :-)

Tiffany Downing
*******************************************
Co-ordinator, International Student Program
TAFE South Australia, AUSTRALIA
Phone:  (61 8) 226 3202
Fax:    (61 8) 226 3655
E-Mail: tiffanyd@tafe.sa.edu.au
*******************************************

Tiffany Downing

********************************************
Co-ordinator, International Student Programs
TAFE South Australia, AUSTRALIA
Phone:   (61 8) 226 3202
Fax:     (61 8) 226 3655
E-Mail:  tiffanyd@tafe.sa.edu.au
********************************************

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Jul 1995 21:18:44 -0500 (CDT)
From: David John Place <umplace@cc.UManitoba.CA>
Subject: Re: Condenser Failure

I have had condenser failure as well but only on the unipoint kind.  We 
just completed a complete rebuild on a small block Chev only to find it 
wouldn't start.  It turned out to be the condenser on the combination 
points condenser unit.  When we went back to separate points and 
condenser it worked fine.  My mechanic friend says he never uses 
unipoints since having this problem a few times.  Dave VE4PN

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Jul 1995 19:56:22 +0100
From: cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine)
Subject: Re: Int'l SA Subscription

 Tiffany Downing <tiffanyd@tafe.sa.edu.au> writes:

>It's Tiffany here.  I went to a committee meeting last night of the Land 
 Rover Register of SA Inc, of which I am a member, to discuss International 
 Membership.  The club is based in Goodwood in South Australia, AUSTRALIA.

 Ahhh, and here I thought SA was South Africa all this time  (I guess the
 phrase 'committee meeting last night' threw me!).

>Our club is the largest Land Rover's Only club in Australia (and until 
 recently the only one) that will not accept members into the club if they do 
 not own or part own a Land Rover (minimum of a chassis).

 I have a few parts, but I actually know real people with Land Rovers.
 Hey, I can get a free IIA chassis from a guy in SLO... I just have to haul
 it away.  Maybe he'll just send me a Bill of Sale and scrap it for me.
 Will that do?

>* It is a family membership so all of your family become members

 I consider the Left Coast U.S.A. Land Rover owners as my family, now may
 I join??

>* You will be sent (By airmail) our club magazine on a monthly basis (there 
>are 11 issues printed - we do not print a magazine in December).

 December, summer time in SA, too much fun out Rovering!

>If anyone is interested in joining, the fee is $45 Australian dollars 

 How much is that in real money??

 Perhaps it makes more sense for us persons overseas to have our local
 clubs join yours, and vica versa.  Can't really take advantage of all
 the fun get-togethers planned, the classifieds, or technical support,
 etc. unless you put out a helluva newsletter and fax advance copies!
 Maybe LROA/NA will set up a liason with your club.

 G'day!

 Michael Carradine   Carradine Studios                          cs@crl.com
 Architect           Architecture Development Planning    Pgr 510-945-5000
 NCARB RIBA          PO Box 99, Orinda, CA 94563 USA   Ph/Fax 510-988-0900

 Mercedes-Benz Unimog 4x4 WWW page at:  http://www.crl.com/~cs/unimog.html

------------------------------

From: JFisk1120@aol.com
Date: Mon, 17 Jul 1995 22:59:17 -0400
Subject: Re: Galvanizing Renewal for LR

One of you asked about the source of a product which is suitable for renewing
the galvanized finish on the Series Rover trim.  The product which I have
used very successfully on more than one Rover is:

Hunting  (Phone: 800-733-4413)
Silver Gray #35511
Hammered Metal Finish

Believe it or not, the spray seems to adhere and flow better if the metal
being sprayed is slightly cooler than the ambient air temperature of the
room.  A brightly lit spray booth seems to be too warm for the proper
application of this particular paint. 

That's my story and I'm "stickin' to it"!

J. Howard Fisk,
"We Brake for 'Closed Road' Signs"
Springfield, Missouri
1964-88" LR      
19'70-109" LR 
19'72-88" LR
1991 RR
1993  LWB RR

------------------------------

From: dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au (Daryl Webb)
Subject: Re: Int'l SA Subscription
Date: Tue, 18 Jul 1995 13:48:21 +0930 (CST)

Mike writes:
>  Hey, I can get a free IIA chassis from a guy in SLO... I just have to haul
>  it away.  Maybe he'll just send me a Bill of Sale and scrap it for me.
>  Will that do?

Maybe Mike, but first you have to convince us that you *Really* plan to restore
said rusted out chassis back to its former glory, then you can be considered
for membership.  (We're a bunch of hard cases mike and no smegging foreign
rubbish allowed)  
One member has spent the last 11 (eleven) years restoring a series 1, no one
has actually seen it in one piece but judging by the number of parts he's
bought from the UK he must have one......  It's going to be a concours de
elegance series 1 when its finally finished........

> >If anyone is interested in joining, the fee is $45 Australian dollars 
>  How much is that in real money??

About two slabs........

cheers
-- 

  Daryl

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Jul 1995 14:23:45 +0930
From: tiffanyd@tafe.sa.edu.au (Tiffany Downing)
Subject: RE: International Membership

>>  Hey, I can get a free IIA chassis from a guy in SLO... I just have to 
haul it away.  Maybe he'll just send me a Bill of Sale and scrap it for me.
>>  Will that do?
>Maybe Mike, but first you have to convince us that you *Really* plan to 
restore said rusted out chassis back to its former glory, then you can be 
considered for membership.  (We're a bunch of hard cases mike and no 
smegging foreign rubbish allowed)

Yeah!! You tell em Darryl.

:-)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Jul 1995 23:41:06 -0600 (MDT)
From: Mike Slade <SLCN3@cc.usu.edu>
Subject: My Bloody (er, bleeding) brakes!!!

Ok, to make a long story short...(which of course RARELY happens),

I've replaced the two front wheel cylinders, bled them as much as I can and am
now waiting for the two rear wheel cylinders (should be here any day now I
hope) from British Pacific.

I can't bleed the rear brakes as the bleed nipples have BOTH broken off thanks
to the PO.

So, in the mean while how do I go about bleeding the brake system as best I can 
without doing the rear brakes.  What about the master cyl (CB type)?  How about raising
raising the front of the Rover (IIA '88)?  What about raising the rear of it?

Any suggestions until this is worked out by replacing the two rear cylinders?

I get to about 4 pumps before the serious brake-age occurs.  I know there's air
in there, it just doesn't seem to be in the front lines.

Anyhow, just wondering. 

Thanks in advance,

Michael

PS We're moving to Portland at the end of August.  Hope to see you all from up
that-a-way soon!

------------------------------

  END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST 
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