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| msg | Sender | lines | Subject |
| 1 | Lloyd Allison [lloyd@cs. | 9 | Camel trophy |
| 2 | JDolan2109@aol.com | 31 | Econo-Tip #14 |
| 3 | jfhess@ucdavis.edu (john | 27 | heated windscreens |
| 4 | Kelly Minnick [minnick@j | 29 | Misc. |
| 5 | cs@crl.com (Michael Carr | 23 | "Service" mileage meter |
| 6 | "Walter C. Swain" [wcswa | 24 | Re: Misc. |
| 7 | jpappa01@InterServ.Com | 30 | Re: Heated windscreens |
| 8 | Charlie Wright [cw117@mo | 88 | Brain failure/no manuals |
| 9 | "Francis J. Twarog" [ftw | 19 | LR Beer |
| 10 | dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu | 18 | Jurassic park |
Date: Sun, 16 Jul 1995 22:18:03 +1000 From: Lloyd Allison <lloyd@cs.monash.edu.au> Subject: Camel trophy I kept the reports in - http://www.cs.monash.edu.au/~lloyd/tildeLand-Rover/LRO/ Lloyd ------------------------------[ <- Message 2 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950717 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: JDolan2109@aol.com Date: Sun, 16 Jul 1995 09:15:28 -0400 Subject: Econo-Tip #14 Thought I'd pass along this exercise in frugality: The next time you need a small piece of wire for, say, a harness tie or such, try using the bail (handle) from a Chinese food container. I have found that metal non-corrosive, easily bendable, and not too brittle (such as stainless). I always keep a few pieces about. Lately I've been into a bit of Samuel Smith Oatmeal Stout. Seems to work well. If anyone knows of a heavy stout with lumps, would they please advise? Regarding Tom Rowe's suggestion of bar and chain oil for use as an undercoating, and then the question of how to spray it: Some people I know (Washington County Electrical Co-op) 'cut' the oil with a bit of diesel fuel prior to spraying. Not much diesel needs to be added. Just adjust to accomodate the orifice of your sprayer. The diesel will dissipate/evaporate and leave the clingy oil behind, having penetrated more than being applied as oil alone. They now use this technique and have abandoned a Texaco grease spray system (less cost and better results). I'm planning an adventure from Vermont to Colorado at the end of July, as I have a 25 yr reunion in Boulder the first weekend of August. Is there a chance anyone else might be going? I'm thinking of going via Interstate 50 or such. Anyone en-route? Anyone in Boulder with a Series vehicle? I'll be staying at my old house in Left Hand Canyon, just off of Lick Skillet Road, below Gold Hill. I guess next week I'll actually get out a map, or maybe I'll just wait and go down the drive and turn right... See 'ya on the old road... Jim '61 88" SW / OD, 1 Bbl weber & 16's (econobox?) LR....quite possibly one of the best machines yet devised! ------------------------------[ <- Message 3 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950717 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sat, 16 Jul 1994 08:59:28 -0700 From: jfhess@ucdavis.edu (john hess) Subject: heated windscreens Re: heated windscreens, Eric Cope has a beautiful NADA 109 sw with the heated windscreens. The wires for the heating are very fine and practically impossible to see. Not at all like the wires commonly seen in new cars for rear defrosting. Eric lives in the foothills of the sierra nevada mountains and found his fan/defroster arrangement unsatisfactory; he says that electric system is the way to go. BTW, I gave eric a ride in the hessmobile (68 dormobile) with OD to give eric a sense of OD whine. he was very impressed, saying his transmission sounds like my trans/od. he has since ordered an OD. So, if some LROs have a very whiny OD, I can't help. My experience with the two rovers is davis is not much whine. cheers john f hess phd (wow, really?) jfhess@ucdavis.edu from home via modem Land- -Rover, Sunbeam Tiger and Mazda owner! ------------------------------[ <- Message 4 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950717 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Kelly Minnick <minnick@joker.chinalake.navy.mil> Subject: Misc. Date: Sun, 16 Jul 95 12:42:33 PDT RE:Misc With the '88RR stalling problem: Did you chek the throttle position sensor? Actually, I forgot to ask if this was a EFI unit! RR brush guards. I have the factory (hmm! at $1600 list - PO) Brush guards & rear lamps guards on my '91 RR. These are plasti-coated which I think is junk. Soon, the plastic seperates from the metal and rust forms between the plastic and the metal. I would recommend stainless or powder coated metal. My plan is to take all this factory stuff in and have it stripped and powder coated (when money permits). valve stem seals. Yes, use them! I agree that most valve jobs could be put off if one replaces the valve stem seals every 50K miles. While I was at it, I would replace the valve springs, too! Question for RR owners: I have a '91 RR. The service engine light has just come on recently and stayed on. I service the vehicle all the time. What causes this light to come on? Also, in the brake department, All the rotors are .040" undersize with 51Kmiles on the vehicle. Is this normal? That's a lot of metal removal! Do these vehicle eat rotors? Thanks Kelly Minnck '73 88" Safari & '91 RR Ridgecrest, CA ------------------------------[ <- Message 5 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950717 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sun, 16 Jul 1995 13:37:24 +0100 From: cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine) Subject: "Service" mileage meter Kelly Minnick <minnick@joker.chinalake.navy.mil> writes: >Question for RR owners: I have a '91 RR. The service engine light has just >come on recently and stayed on. I service the vehicle all the time. What >causes this light to come on? Cause is probably the same thing as in every other recent vintage car. The speedo cable (or electrics ?) goes to a box prior to continuing to the speedo/mileage display. the box keeps track of the mileage between service and triggers the light. The service technician will insert a pointy device into an opening in the box which is the trip/mileage meter switch and resets it. So... find the box and stick it! Michael Carradine Carradine Studios cs@crl.com Architect Architecture Development Planning Pgr 510-945-5000 NCARB RIBA PO Box 99, Orinda, CA 94563 USA Ph/Fax 510-988-0900 Mercedes-Benz Unimog 4x4 WWW page at: http://www.crl.com/~cs/unimog.html ------------------------------[ <- Message 6 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950717 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Walter C. Swain" <wcswain@s101dcascr.wr.usgs.gov> Subject: Re: Misc. Date: Sun, 16 Jul 1995 14:33:29 -0700 (PDT) >>>>> Kelly Minnick writes: > RE:Misc snip > Question for RR owners: I have a '91 RR. The service engine light has just > come on recently and stayed on. I service the vehicle all the time. What > causes this light to come on? In most 'modern" vehicles with the irritating service light, it comes on as a function of miles/km driven. It can be reset if you know the "for dealers eyes only" location of the reset button. Can anybody help us out with the location on the '91 RR? Walter Swain 1967 IIA 109 Safari SW, petrol Davis, CA ------------------------------[ <- Message 7 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950717 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: jpappa01@InterServ.Com Date: Sun, 16 Jul 95 16:15:25 PDT Subject: Re: Heated windscreens Heated screens were standard fitment to NADA 6-cyl 109" station wagons. They had horizontal grid wires and each half pane was on a separate switch. The right side pane on mine never worked even though continuity checks were positive. The driver's side worked quite well for years until it too recently failed. The technology improved quite a bit for the Range Rovers in the late 80s. The grids are now vertical and even clear iced up screens. The heated glass was also standard on the NAS Def 110 and works very well also. I might assume that this glass will be available on the upcoming NAS Def 90 Station Wagon. Obviously, the glass is available as a spare part for existing Defender 90s. As for Series cars, I recall that Bearmach had heated panels listed some time ago. Perhaps a call into RN would determine availability. I never had a problem with visibility as long as you are looking out at the road - which is where you should be looking! If you focus on the screen, you will get cross-eyed looking at the wires! Cheerz Jim - now completely mad... and loving it! ------------------------------[ <- Message 8 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950717 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 17 Jul 1995 00:45:11 +0059 (BST)
From: Charlie Wright <cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk>
Subject: Brain failure/no manuals
O.K. I bit off more than I could chew. I set about my front half-shaft
swap today. I'm putting the heavier half-shafts, uprated hubs/brakes,
and C/V joints from this Stage I into my '66 109.
The original plan was to swap the swivel pins outward.
I ended up needing to renew a swivel-ball and replace some bits and
pieces, but the real confusion is at the swivel housing/axle case joint.
The IIa had a ROLLER BEARING pressed into the _swivel housing_ at this
joint and an OIL SEAL into the _axle case_. Simple.
Now I only have the half-shafts and housings from the Stage I (left the
axle housing), but it has an OIL SEAL pressed into the _swivel housing_.
Series IIa:
- - ,-.
,, | | | / \=|
'-- | - |
============{O}=== <-Axle
,-- | - |
'' | | | \ /=|
- - '-'
^ ^ ^ ^
| | | Housing
| | Roller Bearing
| Oil Seal
Axle Case
Stage I:
- - ,-.
,, | | | / \=|
'-- | - |
============C/V=== <-Axle
,-- | - |
'' | | | \ /=|
- - '-'
^ ^ ^ ^
| | | Housing
| | Oil Seal
| ????
Axle Case
I assumed, from the design of the IIa with Hardy-Spicer joints, that there
must be another bearing on the CV-joint assembly. My assumption was that
it must have been on the axle case side (which I didn't have to check). I
rationalised the change in design to the possible failure of the CV joint
to splash enough oil onto the bearing, so they must have moved it to the
axle side.... O.K., poor justification, but it made some sense.
HOWEVER. I asked around and most people knew nothing, but one said that
there was not a bearing there at all.
In disbelief, I looked at the only Haynes manual I had covering CV joints
(Rover Metro), and there was no 'equivalent' bearing on these either.
The big QUESTION: Does the CV joint survive with no bearing between the
_diff spline_ and the _joint_ itself? I can believe this because it will be
much smoother (being constant-velocity...) This would leave all bearing
to the phospho-bronze plain bearing and the wheel bearings on the stub
axle side of things. Yes? No? Help.
===========
Big question number two. Brakes. Will the two wheel cylinders from my 109
(standard LWB drums) bolt straight in place of the cylinders on the Stage
I backplates (driving the bigger Stage I shoes)? They look a little
different, but on inspection it looks to be only the casing design... I
hope.
Only reasons I ask: A) too lazy to do all the unbolting to try it. B) The
Stage I cylinders are frozen. C) The 109 cylinders are about 6 months
old. What a waste.
All help appreciated.
Cheers,
Charlie
C. R. Wright Dept. of Genetics
+44 (0)1223 333970 telephone Univ. of Cambridge
+44 (0)1223 333992 telefax Downing Street, Cambs.
cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk CB2 3EH, England
------------------------------
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]Date: Sun, 16 Jul 1995 21:46:13 -0400 (EDT) From: "Francis J. Twarog" <ftwarog@moose.uvm.edu> Subject: LR Beer As I'm a bit partial to Vermont's fine microbrews, I'll add Catamount Bock and Otter Creek Stovepipe Porter to the list... the first being one of the smoothest and tastiest brews I've run into and the second will easily pass the 90 wt. viscocity test. BTW, for anyone who enjoys homebrewing but doesn't want to deal w/ clean-up etc., the new fad seems to be "U-brews". As the name implies, you go to their store, select your malt, hops, wheat, or whatever, brew up a batch and let them clean up and ferment it - then about a week or two later (dependant, of course, on you choice of beer) you go back and bottle and carbonate it yourself. I understand it costs around $75 - $80 for 2.5 cases. I'm looking forward to giving it a shot. Frank Twarog Boston, MA ------------------------------[ <- Message 10 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950717 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au (Daryl Webb) Subject: Jurassic park Date: Mon, 17 Jul 1995 11:41:49 +0930 (CST) > Oh come on Tom! *No-one* beleives Jurassic Park is possible. > Those Jeeps and Toyotas are *totally* unbelievable. > Cheers > Mike Rooth I dont know Mike, I thought they looked almost real.... -- Daryl #end# ------------------------------[ <- Message 11 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950717 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
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