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| msg | Sender | lines | Subject |
| 1 | Dixon Kenner [dkenner@em | 39 | Re: Proper Land-Rover beer.... |
| 2 | Mark Ritter [70472.1130@ | 28 | Torsen diffs |
| 3 | "P. Suryono Adisoemarta" | 61 | Re: Anybody ever A/C a Series IIa? |
| 4 | iharper@afm.org | 24 | Zenith Carbs |
| 5 | JFisk1120@aol.com | 30 | Re: A/C for Series Land Rovers |
| 6 | "Francis J. Twarog" [ftw | 14 | re: AC for IIA |
| 7 | "WILLIAM L. LEACOCK" [7 | 20 | 2 nd Gear |
| 8 | jpappa01@InterServ.Com | 13 | Re: Land Rover Beer |
| 9 | cyoungso@Direct.CA (Chri | 12 | Land Rovers on Propane? |
| 10 | cyoungso@Direct.CA (Chri | 15 | Syncronising clutch dissassembly |
| 11 | Tony@hawtec.demon.co.uk | 17 | Heated Windscreens |
| 12 | Tony@hawtec.demon.co.uk | 29 | RE: Zenith Carbs |
| 13 | Tony@hawtec.demon.co.uk | 26 | Heated Windscreens |
Date: Sat, 15 Jul 1995 11:52:50 -0400 (EDT) From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.emr.ca> Subject: Re: Proper Land-Rover beer.... I have received a number of requests for a FAQ section on the suggested and recommended beers and whiskies for Land Rover owners. While I am not sure about how we address recommended volumes (lots) and intervals (often), we should probably start by addressing what to add to Guinness and Islay for the true Land Rover connisseur. At the very least a description of a good stout "must look like 90wt", to a good ale "must look like 10w30 as you see it for the last time before going down the filler tube" (of course, Land Rovers emulating their owners promptly piss it all over the place, though unlike their owner are not very well house trained) Send suggestions to me. I'll collate & post. Example: Drink Type Description Guinness stout - 20w50 after 30 seconds in Dale's diesel - 90wt Isle of Islay single malt - heaven Of course we shall include useful hints to consumption during periods of vapour lock like the use of the lower lip on the Series metalled dash being perfect for opening beer bottles, or the front grille of a pre-85 Range Rover (though you periodically have to dissassemble the grille to remove the caps) Other useful spots? We can keep suggestions anonymous unless of course you suggest something like Coors Light which will get promptly posted to this list for some well deserved ridicule. Rgds, ------------------------------[ <- Message 2 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950716 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: 15 Jul 95 13:43:42 EDT
From: Mark Ritter <70472.1130@compuserve.com>
Subject: Torsen diffs
Seems a lot of folks have been writing asking about Torsen Diffs lately. let me
tell you whtat I know. i spoke with the UK rep for Zexel-Gleason ( the
manufacturer) and he told me the Co. had been bought by the Japenese. The new
owners were not yet keen on the aftermarket scene, but as they just suffered a
defeat when LR decided not to make these diffs an option they might warm up to
the idea.As soon as I here form the rep on their decision I'll write with the
info.
A better possibility may a diff known as the Truetrac. this unit is similar to
the torsen in that it allows some slippage (important for normal pavement
operations) and uses some very complex gearing rather than clutches or cones.
the advantage over the ARB airlockers is less complexity (no pump or airlines)
and considerably less expensive. If your interested in one of these as i am
call,
Truetrac
1-800-328-3850
Ask to speak to the engineering dept. i spoke to Jim in eng. and told him a lot
of Rover owners would be interesed in this diff. He told me that if they had
enough requests the would develop it for Rovers. Tell him you heard about it on
the rover-net.
mark ritter
94 disco
------------------------------
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]From: "P. Suryono Adisoemarta" <paulus@nextover.pe.utexas.edu> Subject: Re: Anybody ever A/C a Series IIa? Date: Sat, 15 Jul 1995 17:11:16 -0500 (CDT) This is how we (my father and I) put the A/C system on our S-III LWB Landys (1975 ex-mil and 1982 109', both with tropical roof, 5 doors, 10 seaters, 2.25L petrol, and both are in my parent's house in Indonesia). First configuration: - put the A/C blower on the footwell of the passenger side, it's easy to do but it made the passenger shivering while the driver and the middle seat passenger are Ok, but the people that sat on the back jumpseat were sweating like hell ;-) - the freon condenser was in front of the water radiation, it was obstructing the airflow and made the LR ran hot. so, we went to the second configuration: " blow the air from the backside thru roof mounted false ceiling (like the A/C in airplanes) with individual air flow control." things that I still remember for this project (we did this 8 years ago): - put a blank on the roof vents (that goes to the tropical roof) - put two A/C blowers, side by side, on the backside of the ceiling, - ran a fake ceiling up to the front with airflow control for each passenger. This fake ceiling was made out of thin sheet metal with grey thin carpet cover on the outside for a nice color, - put the freon condenser radiator (the thing that releases the heat of the freon as the freon is compressed) inside the well underneath the front passenger seat, with electric fan to blow the air to cool this radiator. (it made the LR ran cooler, as the airflow for the engine cooling is not obstructed anymore) - use Sanden SD-505 compressor (I forget on which side of the engine we put that) - replace the alternator with a 80 amps alternator, as the new contraption really eats juice (I've measured that the two blowers, the electric fan and the magnetic clutch on the compressor takes around 16 amps). - put an extra switch on the central console for turning off the magnetic clutch on the compressor manually. I always use this switch whenever I need to overtake a car in a short time (yes the A/C system really ate much of the engine power). One more note: make damn sure that you route the water drain from the A/C blower properly, as I had a nasty cold water shower when I brake hard from the water that creeps forward inside the fake ceiling due to a mistake in the plastic drain pipe routing (the pipe made a 1/2 inch upward when we put the blower cover back on, so it never drains the water properly). hope that helps, Paulus N5SNN -- Paulus Suryono Adisoemarta Internet: yono@parokinet.org (Linux!) Petroleum Engineering Dept. paulus@nextover.pe.utexas.edu (NeXT!) U of Texas, Austin n5snn@mail.utexas.edu (?!) ------------------------------[ <- Message 4 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950716 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: iharper@afm.org Subject: Zenith Carbs Date: Sat, 15 Jul 95 18:18:42 EST I'm having problems adjusting the new Zenith on my '74 SIII. The only way that I can get it to run smoothly is to leave the choke on just a bit. This would indicate that I need a richer mixture, but the Volume control screw has absolutely no effect whatsoever (unless I remove it completely!!) I've stripped the carb down and made sure all of the passageways were clear, and even smoothed the faces with emery cloth. Is it possible that either 1) the position of the distributor is so far off as to affect the mixture? (I've tried adjusting the carb at all the timing positions...no luck) or 2) the vaccuum advance on the dist. is way out of whack? The only other explanation is that it is a bad casting, but as I got it from England, it would cost me more to return it than get another one. P.S. Is the Vacuum line supposed to be attached or blocked when the timing is set? This obviously affects the Vacuum advance, so where should that be set and how do you know how far advanced or retarded it is? --- This copy of Freddie 1.2.5 is being evaluated. ------------------------------[ <- Message 5 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950716 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: JFisk1120@aol.com Date: Sat, 15 Jul 1995 18:57:38 -0400 Subject: Re: A/C for Series Land Rovers Greetings to all of you in Roverland, I too suffer the heat of a closed compartment Land Rover. We have a '64, 88"( LION-B8), which we run topless from March thru October. If you can take the sun you are okay, because the airflow seems to compensate for the sun. On the other side of the garage we have a '72, 88" which remains covered year round. This is our rain and unknown conditions Rover. This rascal heats up like nobodys business and I was beginning to think of some sort of drastic action. Air conditioning of some sort seemed the solution, so we girded up our loins, as it were, and went about the installation of a Baaden & Brown two speed, electric fan. This is not a perfect solution, however, it is an improvement. Even though the air temp is not changed, there is some relief in the fact that it is taken from a state of rest and transformed into a moving mass which seems to give aid relief to the human body. By the way, this thing is sort of big and ugly with its wire cage, but what's a Rover driver gonna do? I hope your driving pursuits are pleasurable. My family will set off for Hootentown, Missouri at 7:00 AM in the morning. This abandoned mill town on the James River promises to be a great destination for a Roverbrunch. We will travel in two 88's with our Roverchum Todd Houge and friends traveling in a third 88". If you don't drive your Rover regularly....it will drive *you* crazy!! J. Howard Fisk Springfield, Missouri ------------------------------[ <- Message 6 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950716 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sat, 15 Jul 1995 19:16:52 -0400 (EDT) From: "Francis J. Twarog" <ftwarog@moose.uvm.edu> Subject: re: AC for IIA I remember seeing pictures in Ken Slavin's "Land Rover..." of Range Rovers and Defenders with roof mounted AC units. I have no idea where to find one, but just the other day, saw a brand new Ford parcel van with one on it's roof - I assume any truck accessories store could direct you. BTW, don't you suppose that an AC on an old 2.25 litre engine might draw a bit too much power to, say, budge ?! Frank Twarog Boston, MA ------------------------------[ <- Message 7 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950716 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: 15 Jul 95 19:32:30 EDT From: "WILLIAM L. LEACOCK" <75473.3572@compuserve.com> Subject: 2 nd Gear Andy, .... jumping out of second gear has several potential causes, there being more likelihood of a ser 3 doing it than ser2. The simplest reason is a weak detent spring on the selector shaft, the most likely is that the teeth on the side of the gear over which the first gear slides to lock the gear to the mainshaft are worn., this is common on series 3, the teeth having been thinned down to accomodate the synchro cones,look to the stop at the rear of the selector shaft ( inside a small steel plate at the very top of the gearbox ) to ensure that full engagaenment of the detent is permitted . The other significant reason is wear on the bearing bush, these bushes often break up and permit the gear to move on the shaft, thus exacerbating the wear and allowing the gears to slide out of engagement, it is more common for third to start to jump out before 2 nd. due to bush wear. Regards Bill Leacock limey in exile. ------------------------------[ <- Message 8 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950716 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: jpappa01@InterServ.Com Date: Sat, 15 Jul 95 18:14:36 PDT Subject: Re: Land Rover Beer Here in the Boston area we have recently received a gift in the form of the local availability of BODDINGTONS BEST BITTER direct in the UK pressurized cans! For those of you who crave bitter - you *MUST* try this stuff. Even the foam is liquid! Smoothest brew I've ever had. You'll love it. cheerz Jim - now completely mad... and loving it! ------------------------------[ <- Message 9 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950716 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 17 May 1995 03:23:19 -0700 From: cyoungso@Direct.CA (Chris Youngson) Subject: Land Rovers on Propane? Does anyone know of any LRs converted to propane? I am thinking about this as I rebuild my truck. Where would you store the tank(s). 73 Chris Youngson, VE7CST West Vancouver British Columbia Canada ------------------------------[ <- Message 10 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950716 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 17 May 1995 03:23:49 -0700 From: cyoungso@Direct.CA (Chris Youngson) Subject: Syncronising clutch dissassembly I am rebuilding my transmission and need some help. I need to know how to hold back the three spring detent clips in the synchro. clutch. This way I can withdraw the two funny gear things that hold the clutch to the mainshaft. I've tried wrapping wire around them and tying them back to one of the through pins, but the force is to strong. Thanx Chris Youngson VE7CST West Vancouver British Columbia Canada ------------------------------[ <- Message 11 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950716 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 95 20:32:54 PDT From: Tony@hawtec.demon.co.uk Subject: Heated Windscreens Because of difficulties in clearing condensation from my screen during the autumn/winter I am considering fitting heated front screens to my SIIA. Does anybody have experience of these? Do they work? Do the fine wires embedded in the screen affect vision badly? I would be grateful for any comments. ------------------------------------- Tony Chapman 1968 SWB hardtop IIA petrol ------------------------------------- ------------------------------[ <- Message 12 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950716 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sat, 15 Jul 95 07:39:17 PDT From: Tony@hawtec.demon.co.uk Subject: RE: Zenith Carbs Try checking the O ring that seals the top to the carburettor main body. This sometimes fails. Whilst you're at it check both the condition and adjustment of the float and needle valve. If this is wrong you will have great difficulty setting the mixture. One thing that caught me out was that the volume control screw controls airflow rather than petrol. In order to weaken the mixture at should be unscrewed. The Land Rover workshop manual gives static timing settings only. If you are using these there is no need to disconnect the vacuum pipe. ------------------------------------- Tony Chapman E-mail: Tony@hawtec.demon.co.uk HAWTEC Tel: 01905 723200 Haswell House Fax: 01905 613338 St. Nicholas Street Mobile: 0973 316835 Worcester WR1 1UW Date: 04/22/95 Time: 09:26:25 This message was sent by Chameleon ------------------------------------- ------------------------------[ <- Message 13 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950716 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sat, 15 Jul 95 07:49:17 PDT From: Tony@hawtec.demon.co.uk Subject: Heated Windscreens Firstly appologies. I tried posting this a couple of days ago but as it hasn't appeared I assume that its gone astray, probably direct to another person on this mailing group. Because of difficulty in de-misting the screen in Autumn/Winter I am considering fitting one or two heated screens to my IIA. These are available as an accessory from Land Rover. Does anyone have experience of these? Are they any good? Do the wires embedded in the screen interfere with vision? I would be grateful for any views. ------------------------------------- Tony Chapman E-mail: Tony@hawtec.demon.co.uk HAWTEC Tel: 01905 723200 Haswell House Fax: 01905 613338 St. Nicholas Street Mobile: 0973 316835 Worcester WR1 1UW This message was sent by Chameleon ------------------------------------- ------------------------------[ <- Message 14 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950716 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
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