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From: Mr Ian Stuart <Ian.Stuart@ed.ac.uk>
Date:          Fri, 14 Jul 1995 08:44:09 +0000
Subject:       Re: Sunshiny SA (joke)

On 13 Jul 95, Michael Carradine wrote:

>  to complete their chromosome chain?

There's a hint in the title: "gene JOCKEY". Jockey's ride, so obviously a 
"gene jockey" is someone who's paid to ride genes

:-)

     ----** Ian Stuart (Computing Officer)        +44 31 650 6205
Royal (Dick) School of Veterinary Studies, Edinburgh University. 
 <http://www.vet.ed.ac.uk/> or <http://www.tardis.ed.ac.uk/~kiz/>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Jul 1995 09:34:22 +0100 (BST)
From: Peter Aslan <paslan@uk.mdis.com>
Subject: Re: Clutch replacement for IIA (fwd)

thought I'd chip in here..

I just purchased a new clutch 'cover' from Craddocks (sp).
This is 9 inch I guess,, 9 seperate springs, presure plate cover, the 
whole thing. Cost about 27 quid, a plesent supprise.

I was also concerned that I'd end up with a 'bag-o-bits' and the details 
in the manual for setting it up were a bit frightning.

Comparing the pressure it takes to depress the three fingers shows, that 
it is possible on the old assembily, a bit too easy really. The new one 
however is realy tight, I'm unable to move it, the guy in the shop said 
it was probably original, comes from a 1960 S2. 
It feels good to find the cause of a problem, 
theres nothing more frustrating than tearing somthing down, finding 
nothing, putting it back together only to find the same fault.

Now, the friction plate was out of stock, but the old one is still 
serviceable. They said these plates were becoming more and more difficult 
to find, they charge a big surcharge unless the old one is handed in, so 
they can re-condition it I guess.

Regards,

  Peter Aslan (aka Captain Norton).           Louden Quill Award.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
  McDonnell Information Systems
  Boundary Way
  Hemel Hempstead                             Voice: 01442 273324
  Hertfordshire HP2 7HU                       Fax:   01442 244896
  ENGLAND                                     Mail:  paslan@uk.mdis.com 
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: azw@aber.ac.uk (Andy Woodward)
Subject: Re: Undercoating
Date: Fri, 14 Jul 1995 10:14:22 UNDEFINED

\In response to the "waxoil" info, Rovers North (Autumn,'94) Newsletter 
\recommends renewing the undercoating on the D90 chassis annually. What do 
\you use as "undercoating" and how is it applied? Given the awful 
\reputation of the "rustproofing" franchaises that flourished in the US in 
\the '70's, is there any good commericial "undercoating" company or is it 
\better to do it yourself? Also, what is "POR-15".

I inject the inside of the chassis tubes once every 5 years and spray the 
whole outside of it every autumn. It is 11 years old and the cchassis is as 
new. Most of teh others of that age are a MESS.

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
        Just another roadkill on the Information Superhighway
+++++++++++++++++++++++ None-%er #1 +++++++++++++++++++++++++++

------------------------------

From: azw@aber.ac.uk (Andy Woodward)
Subject: Re: truncated messages 
Date: Fri, 14 Jul 1995 10:23:15 UNDEFINED

> Dixon Kenner's message about winches got truncated at
> >"...a mountain of......"
> is anyone else having this problem? ie.Is it the Major or my reader?

What (still) pisses me off is the way that MajorDomo chooses to 'save' 
bandwidth by deleting long inclusions. So you regularly get a really 
interesting looking reply to something with only the first line, or so. Then 
[truncated gratuitously] message,. Then the last line. So all this useful info 
comes to nowt cos you cant tell what the hell its about.

Any chance of dropping this 'useful' design feature???

I. for one would rather have the fulll inclusions and a little more bandwidth. 
This list doesnt have noise problems, so the occasional waste of bandwidth 
would be more than cocmensated by having the full information.

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
        Just another roadkill on the Information Superhighway
+++++++++++++++++++++++ None-%er #1 +++++++++++++++++++++++++++

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Jul 1995 11:50:02 +0200
From: zebra@xs4all.nl (Bastiaan Houtkooper)
Subject: Replacement Bumbers Disco

I am looking for replacement bumbers for the "plastic"ones on my '95 Disco 
300 TDI. The front seems no problem
because there are a lot of replacement (winch) bumbers available, but did 
anybody see anything good for the back.
I would like to have a "real"strong Rover again! ( I am also interested in 
drawings of home made designs)

Bastiaan Houtkooper

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Jul 1995 11:50:05 +0200
From: zebra@xs4all.nl (Bastiaan Houtkooper)
Subject: Replacement Bumbers Disco

I am looking for replacement bumbers for the "plastic"ones on my '95 Disco 
300 TDI. The front seems no problem
because there are a lot of replacement (winch) bumbers available, but did 
anybody see anything good for the back.
I would like to have a "real"strong Rover again! ( I am also interested in 
drawings of home made designs)

Bastiaan Houtkooper

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Jul 1995 11:43:38 +0100
From: cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk (Charlie Wright)
Subject: Gene Jockey

At 9:44am 14/7/95, Mr Ian Stuart wrote:

>To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net
>On 13 Jul 95, Michael Carradine wrote:
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)]
>There's a hint in the title: "gene JOCKEY". Jockey's ride, so obviously a
>"gene jockey" is someone who's paid to ride genes

No, no, no... It's more like a disc-jockey.  We're responsible for changing
your genes smoothly and efficiently and with such skill you'll never know
you're evolving until one day you'll wake up and realise that you've been
washing your Series machine, changing your underwear out of habit instead
of need, eating vegetables with your beer, and understanding things like
Lucus electrics...

But don't thank me, it's only my job... ;-)

Charlie

C. R. Wright                                    Dept. of Genetics
+44 (0)1223 333970 telephone                    Univ. of Cambridge
+44 (0)1223 333992 telefax                      Downing Street, Cambs.
cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk                        CB2 3EH, England

------------------------------

Date: 14 Jul 95 07:31:52 EDT
From: <Glen_Rees@parlon2.ccmail.compuserve.com>
Subject: Proper Land Rover Beer

     Picking up on Alan Richer's thread about homebrewing.
     
     Have you tied "The Firkin Brewery's" Dogbolter yet?
     
     This is some serious stuff, (falling down water) it's a dark porter 
     with SG=4.8+ (1048-50) Brewed in 25/30 pint batches (or more if you 
     have the facilities)
     
     Glenn  
     (pissed of Woodham)

------------------------------

From: Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: Gene Jockey
Date: Fri, 14 Jul 95 12:36:41 BST

Humph,more likely washing our underwear *in* the Series Machine,
drinking pints of vegetables and trying to eat beer with a knife!

Anyway,I thought Gene was a cowboy:-)

Cheers
Mike Rooth

------------------------------

From: Brian Neill Tiedemann <s914440@minyos.xx.rmit.EDU.AU>
Subject: diff locks ++
Date: Fri, 14 Jul 1995 21:56:02 +1000 (EST)

In reply to Gowyn and Daryl (and all who think about going to the beach 
when the MAX temperature during the day is 7 degrees C _shivvvvver_).
Now on the diff locks, most series LRs have the ability to select 2 or 4 
wheel drive, and when in 4WD, the drive to the front and rear comes off a 
common point in the transfer gearbox. In a full time 4WD like a RR or 
Disco or many others, there must be some "give" between front and rear 
drive shafts - think about the different distances travelled by each 
individual wheel, NOT the same, so if driving front and rear all the 
time, on a grippy surface (bitumen) then a diff between front and rear 
driveshafts will provide for the "give" needed. When you series folk 
engage 4WD and lock hubs (if you have them), Mr R Over says thou shalt 
not be on bitumen... This is for the reason given above- the front and 
rear will be wanting to go different distances when turning corners, so 
huge forces (evil + dark) will be set up in the T case. These should not 
be unleashed!
On non-grippy (read mud-n-stuff) surfaces, that 'centre diff' will help 
you get stuck sooner- only one wheel need lose grip to lose forward progress.
SO - we three diffed ones are blessed with a lock system (on the centre 
diff only :(  )  this stops the differential action when engaged- making 
our drive trains then equivalent to a series in 4WD- again not to be 
locked on bitumen. This centre diff is _much_ smaller than the front and 
rear ones, and does not like to spin hard, so MY opinion is that it 
should be locked as soon as you are on a surface where the wheels can 
slip enough to provide the "give" mentioned above- trivial extra tyre 
wear, and better control and capability result, and expensive (trust me) 
centre diff rebuilds are avoided. The locked diff is WAY more robust than 
when it is free to spin.
Now, given all that, to have this type of lock system on a front and rear 
diffs would make a more capable, even if difficult to steer vehicle.
If 1 end is locked, 3 wheels must slip to lose traction, and 2 means all 
four must slip before you stick- true 4 wheel drive.
Detroit lockers and Lock-Rites are a form of always locked unless 
cornering diff setup without gears in the centre- smart people designed 
these, very trikky :).Diff remains locked until 1 axle trys to turn 
Faster than the carrier- only happens when cornering with grip. The 
detroit system has more inherent backlash than the lock rite, and I am 
told that the lock rite is more driver friendly when used in the front, 
but I have never driven with a front one. Both should re lock if enough 
power is applied to bring axles back to equal speeds.
Vacuum lockers, Air Lockers, and various manual lockers are all 
selectable- that is they remain as a free diff until you want to activate 
the lock system. These are often supplied with heavier axles- (as should 
the above types really I suppose) because with the diff locked, it is 
possible that the full weight of the vehicle, and the full engine 
horsepower could be applied to only one wheel- strain strain *snap* :($.
Limited slip diffs do just that, slip by an amount less than a free diff.
This still provides some drive in a 1 wheel spin situation, and allows 
the cornering differential action as well. I think that a Posi-Traction 
falls into this category, but I'm not sure.
Torsen diffs, I believe, are even smarter than detroits, behaving as a 
free diff, and a locked diff depending upon spin/throttle action- does 
anyone know where I might find a detailed description/diagram of the 
operating mechanism used. I am intrigued! The principal used is that of a 
worm gear being able to drive a spur gear, but the spur being unable to 
drive the worm, but the exact method that this is applied I can only 
imagine, as I have not seen one in bits.

Lastly, on the when to lock the centre diff thread, my RR is quite 
capable in reverse, most of the time, as RRs are actually heavier over 
the rear axle than the front, so mostly (not always I admit) if I drive 
in and get stuck, I can reverse out, or at least rock back and forward in 
hope. I prefer to look after my centre diff rather than have the 
"traction fuse" effect of driving until it spins (then maybe welds itself 
together or snaps). There's always the hand winch- soon PTO (or some 
Canned Loser as a LAST resort- usually behind anyway.
 (still looking for a PTO for 4spd RR ....... anyone???)

still suffering lysdexia :}
and long winded posts- wanna write a diffs FAQ?

Brian
77 RR
(Unoffended- so far)

------------------------------

From: Easton Trevor <TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA>
Subject: Blue Balls, Leaks and Draughting
Date: Fri, 14 Jul 95 08:25:00 DST

Pulling into the driveway last night I noticed a large pool of oil under 
Miss Golightly's left side swivel ball. Having just expounded the virtues of 
epoxy repairs to balls I was a little concerned (Was this another case of 
LRODS "Land Rover Owner Digest Syndrome", everything is fine until you 
mention it on the digest, then everyone has a problem). Closer examination 
after removal of the gaiters found the ball surface clean and smooth with 
only a small amount of oil inside the gaiter. So where did the puddle come 
from? As I swung the steering I suddenly noticed that the steering arm and 
brake drum were not moving in unison and the four bolts holding the arm were 
all loose. These bolts were torqued and lock tabbed when the swivels were 
rebuilt, I retorqued them and reset the tabs. Any opinions on how they came 
to be loose. The right side was checked and all were tight. Apologies in 
advance to all those whose steering arms will now become loose,

During our trip to The Down East I was able to make the following 
observations regarding speeds. Miss Golightly has standard ratios, no 
overdrive and 205/85/16 rubber. 1000 rpm equals 16 mph (Indicated).  In the 
mountains where it required 2nd gear for the uphill portion, it was possible 
to maintain 50 mph foot off in gear downhill. Hills that were just climbable 
in top could be coasted down at 55mph with the wind resistance just equal to 
the gravity. Look Ma no feet!.  Going to Boston down I95 we were able 
(Unable to avoid) draught several large trucks. It was possible to maintain 
65 mph with just a tickle of accelerator when close (< 10ft) behind a truck 
but the affects on engine temperature were soon apparent and the effects on 
personal stress level for both the driver and poor Mary as an innocent 
passenger were immediate. One theory I have heard put forward is to travel 
so close that if the truck suddenly slows you immediately become part of the 
trailer with only a slight impact.

Trevor Easton, 1962 SIIA SWB SW Miss Golightly

------------------------------

From: Sanna@aol.com
Date: Fri, 14 Jul 1995 08:28:31 -0400
Subject: Re: Range Rover front brush bars

>The one disadvantage is that it makes the task of changing a
headlamp into a two hour ordeal.

Oh yes, and I forgot to add....  Changing a tailight also turns into a two
hour (almost) ordeal as well.  The large plastic knob that should make
loosening the shield to swing it away on its hinges easy, turns an aluminum
bolt that oxidizes to its aluminum nut almost imediately, and strips.  Not a
good design.

-

------------------------------

Date: 14 Jul 95 08:28:45 EDT
From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com>
Subject: Re: Diff. Locks; AC in Series

> ...<snip>...  My understanding is that the new LR's, full time
> 4wd have a selectable centre diff lock.  What about us poorer folk with
> series models?  Are diff locks the same as posi traction?

No, no... Series folks are much better off! When you engage 4WD you have
fully automatic instantaneous locking of both axles! Have pitty on the
others who have to start fiddling around with their little joystick whenever
they need traction. The Series are much more technically advanced... ;-)
-------------------------------

Re: AC, the optional AC for the Defender 110 County has the condenser thing
sitting not on the bulkhead but *in front* of the radiator, with the front
grille ('breakfast'?) protuding out and frontwards beyond the bumper...
bit of a silly construction for an off-road vehicle IMO. However, on a
Series where the radiator is set back quite a bit, this setup might be a
viable solution, i.e. moving the grill more up front to make room for the
condenser (the grill would in fact be a kind of rectangular basket). It would
make the AC more efficient, and you wouldn't be bonnet-challenged. Inside
dashboard-wise, you loose the entire shuttle vent-with-tray, instead you have
a vertical insulated plastic fascia over the entire width, with 4 adjustable
vents that conduct the cooled air. The compressor sits top left from the
engine, like the generator, but other side. You'll need a double-grooved
pulley wheel on your crankshaft to run the additional flybelt; pulley from
a 24V mil. Lightweight should work fine. On an older engine that doesn't have
the aux. mounts incorporated, I'd weld or bolt some sort of supporting mount
directly to the frame.  Using the timing gear cover or water pump bolts to
mount a compressor bracket doesn't seem like a good idea to me, as the old
engines don't have any plane surface where the mount would fit flush.
- Incidentally I remember that, a few years back in Greece, I saw and closely
inspected a red S.III 88 hardtop that had been used by Caltex in the Arabian
Gulf area and was fully air conditioned.  The AC unit had multilingual
Warning stickers with the Land Rover logo all over it, so it must have been
some sort of original LR setup.

Stefan
<Stefan R. Jacob, 100043.2400@CompuServe.com>

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date:          Fri, 14 Jul 1995 07:47:32 GMT -0600
Subject:       Re: truncated messages 

Snip
> What (still) pisses me off is the way that MajorDomo chooses to 'save' 
> bandwidth by deleting long inclusions. 
Snip
> Any chance of dropping this 'useful' design feature???
Snip

Andy, et al,
Perhaps we could get that disabled if we all agree to snip out 
portions of inclusions that don't bear on the topic of our reply. 
Tom

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date: 14 Jul 95  9:01:15 EDT
Subject: Re: Proper Land-Rover beer....

Re: pondering:

What I was pondering as I consumed the dark, rich porter  was the proper beer 
for we
independent, freedom-loving, self-reliant LandRover owners...this will require 
extensive
research - I hope! 8*)

I really should formulate a recipe to honor our aluminum friends. The only 
problem is
avoiding the oil...8*) -Alan

Line Eater Fodder
Line EaterFodder

------------------------------

From: Spenny@aol.com
Date: Fri, 14 Jul 1995 09:07:21 -0400
Subject: Proper Land-Rover beer....

Alan writes....
    Speaking as a homebrewer, 

Another home brewer! 
I brewed some Land Rover Stout for the Birthday Party, but it spoiled :-(

Land Rover Stout...

Looks like 90wt., tastes like heaven.

Spenny

------------------------------

From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date: 14 Jul 95  9:19:53 EDT
Subject: Re: truncated messages

> Perhaps we could get this disabled if we agree to snip
>down the messages...

I'm in! Who do we have to kill? 8*) -ajr

------------------------------

From: Mr Ian Stuart <Ian.Stuart@ed.ac.uk>
Date:          Fri, 14 Jul 1995 14:22:25 +0000
Subject:       Re: truncated messages 

On 14 Jul 95, Tom Rowe wrote:

> > Any chance of dropping this 'useful' design feature???
> Snip
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> Perhaps we could get that disabled if we all agree to snip out 
> portions of inclusions that don't bear on the topic of our reply. 

One vote for voluntary (?sp) cutting & ditching the helpful bit of 
majordomo

     ----** Ian Stuart (Computing Officer)        +44 31 650 6205
Royal (Dick) School of Veterinary Studies, Edinburgh University. 
 <http://www.vet.ed.ac.uk/> or <http://www.tardis.ed.ac.uk/~kiz/>

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date:          Fri, 14 Jul 1995 08:28:37 GMT -0600
Subject:       Re: 101 diffs and lockers

Daryl Webb writes:

Snip
> So how much does the lock-right camming in and out affect steering, I know a
> no-spin in the rear will make a 109 twitchy and have always wondered about a
> front applications ever since some bloke tried very hard to sell me one.

My understanding of  lockers of the Detroit genre are that they do 
make steering twitchy and are quite dangerous if you are driving 
somewhere (cliffedge road?) where you want total control of your 
steering.
For the true lockers of the AirLocker style, ie. those that have some 
sort of dog that essentially makes the axles a single shaft between 
the wheels, you can't steer more that a degree or two. Since LR's 
don't have CV joints in the front axle, the two must turn at quite 
varying speeds, even more when you account for the different turning 
radii. In the front, if I had a choice, I'd go with the AirLocker and 
just use it to get out of a hole or what-have-you.
This is second hand info as I have never had the money to install both 
front and rear, although I hope to soon get to it. Then maybe I can 
change my sig.
Actually, back in the '80's when Al at DAP was racing a LR some, he had 
locking diffs that he sold installed in the 88 he raced. He said he 
saw little difference when the front was engaged as far as traction 
was concerned.
Tom

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date:          Fri, 14 Jul 1995 08:34:02 GMT -0600
Subject:       Re: Gene Jockey

> No, no, no... It's more like a disc-jockey.  We're responsible for changing
> your genes smoothly and efficiently and with such skill you'll never know
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> of need, eating vegetables with your beer, and understanding things like
> Lucus electrics...

Hey Charlie, now hold on a minute. My wife's a molecular biologist, 
spent years as a gene jocky, and I have it on good authority that 
mankind, no matter how much gene manipulation, will *never* 
understand Lucas electrics. Unless you think things like Jurassic 
Park are really possible.
Tom

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

From: Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: Gene Jockey
Date: Fri, 14 Jul 95 15:03:20 BST

Oh come on Tom! *No-one* beleives Jurassic Park is possible.
Those Jeeps and Toyotas are *totally* unbelievable.

Cheers
Mike Rooth

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Jul 1995 15:06:56 +0100
From: cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk (Charlie Wright)
Subject: Re: truncated messages

I think voluntary docking is a much better idea as well, but auto-docking
would probably still help the digest-folk. They should (in theory) have the
original copy in the same digest, while we impulsive real-timers may have
thrown it away...  certainly I would vote for a less stringent chopper for
the real-time list... six lines should not upset it.

Alternatively you can defeat it by losing the ">" mark if you think the
enclosure is crucial. That effects the same result as voluntary chopping
and still edits out the 'accidental' or 'lazy' inclusion of a whole message
in the reply.

Charlie

C. R. Wright                                    Dept. of Genetics
+44 (0)1223 333970 telephone                    Univ. of Cambridge
+44 (0)1223 333992 telefax                      Downing Street, Cambs.
cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk                        CB2 3EH, England

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Jul 1995 15:06:38 +0100
From: cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk (Charlie Wright)
Subject: Re: Proper Land-Rover beer....

At 9:01am 14/7/95, Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus
>I really should formulate a recipe to honor our aluminum friends. The only
>problem is
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
>Line Eater Fodder

But how much fodder began?

I don't know, I did a bit of brewing in my undergrad days, and you get some
interesting and unexpected results from additives (citrus in the case of my
attempts at a 'mead').  I suspect a little EP90 (unused) might give that
sulpher an coal-tar tang so reminicent of my own greatest weakness... a
single-cask strength Islay Malt Whisky.  Ahhh.

C. R. Wright                                    Dept. of Genetics
+44 (0)1223 333970 telephone                    Univ. of Cambridge
+44 (0)1223 333992 telefax                      Downing Street, Cambs.
cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk                        CB2 3EH, England

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Jul 1995 15:07:13 +0100
From: cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk (Charlie Wright)
Subject: Re: Gene Jockey

At 9:34am 14/7/95, Tom Rowe wrote:

>> of need, eating vegetables with your beer, and understanding things like
>> Lucus electrics...

>understand Lucas electrics. Unless you think things like Jurassic
>Park are really possible.
>Tom

Hey, sometimes you just gotta stretch the truth... keep the audience's
attention.

Charlie

C. R. Wright                                    Dept. of Genetics
+44 (0)1223 333970 telephone                    Univ. of Cambridge
+44 (0)1223 333992 telefax                      Downing Street, Cambs.
cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk                        CB2 3EH, England

------------------------------

From: Russell Burns <burns@cisco.com>
Subject: Re: Gene Jockey
Date: Fri, 14 Jul 95 7:27:39 PDT

> Hey Charlie, now hold on a minute. My wife's a molecular biologist, 
> spent years as a gene jocky, and I have it on good authority that 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
> Park are really possible.
> Tom
I think the problem is  in trying to understand Lucas electrics. My
experience with Lucas electricks is that it is in a constant
state of flux (pun intended). The trick is not to attempt to
"fix" the problem, but to wait for it to change. Sometimes one
has to influnce the rate of change, either speed it up, or slow
it down, but is is usless to try to stop the change.

Russ
94 d-90
91 R-Rover

> Tom Rowe
> UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 13 lines)]
>  Four wheel drive allows you to get
>  stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

From: Mr Ian Stuart <Ian.Stuart@ed.ac.uk>
Date:          Fri, 14 Jul 1995 16:09:19 +0000
Subject:       A test to see which address chops the bottom off

This has been sent to lro@team.net & Land-Rover-Owner@uk.stratus.com

I want to see which one (if either) leaves the bottom two lines in place 
:-)

     ----** Ian Stuart (Computing Officer)        +44 31 650 6205
Royal (Dick) School of Veterinary Studies, Edinburgh University. 
 <http://www.vet.ed.ac.uk/> or <http://www.tardis.ed.ac.uk/~kiz/>

------------------------------

From: Mr Ian Stuart <Ian.Stuart@ed.ac.uk>
Date:          Fri, 14 Jul 1995 16:09:19 +0000
Subject:       A test to see which address chops the bottom off

This has been sent to lro@team.net & Land-Rover-Owner@uk.stratus.com

I want to see which one (if either) leaves the bottom two lines in place 
:-)

     ----** Ian Stuart (Computing Officer)        +44 31 650 6205
Royal (Dick) School of Veterinary Studies, Edinburgh University. 
 <http://www.vet.ed.ac.uk/> or <http://www.tardis.ed.ac.uk/~kiz/>

------------------------------

From: BobandSueB@aol.com
Date: Fri, 14 Jul 1995 11:39:43 -0400
Subject: Re: #1(2) The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest RE:(clutch)

In a message dated 95-07-14 04:36:18 EDT, you write:

>> This Clutch is a 9 1/2" . and is fully assembled. One piece for the disk,
>one
>> complete pressure plate springs and all ready to introduce to the

flywheel,
>	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
>> surface and new springs, also don't want to fool around with the
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 17 lines)]
>------------------------------
>Date: Thu, 13 Jul 1995 07:04:50 -0700 (PDT)
>From: David R

(About A1 clutch rebuilders Disk P48348, Pressure plate Assem.X47348)

Hi, This clutch was 9 1/2 " diaphragm, just like the original (1969-88).
One thing I liked better than a 65 version was the way the flat disc (that
the release bearing pressed against), is held on to the fingers. On this one,
the thing is retained by being slotted to all fingers, the (original??) on
the 65 had three thin steel bands that 
two were dangling.
By the way, this was listed in their catalog for the L/R. It is not a
substitute or cross reference from another vehicle. I believe we found it
under Rover cars Land-Rover.
Speaking of cross references, when I put the 4cyl 1962 chev nova engine in my

51-80, I noticed the chev clutch spline seemed to fit the tranny (70)
perfectly,but
I used L/R clutch.

Regards 
Bob Bernard

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Jul 1995 11:42:27 -0400 (EDT)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.emr.ca>
Subject: Re: Proper Land-Rover beer....

On Fri, 14 Jul 1995, Charlie Wright wrote:

> interesting and unexpected results from additives (citrus in the case of my
> attempts at a 'mead').  I suspect a little EP90 (unused) might give that
> sulpher an coal-tar tang so reminicent of my own greatest weakness... a
> single-cask strength Islay Malt Whisky.  Ahhh.

	Barkshack Ginger mead is pretty good stuff.  Had good experience
	with the stuff (grin>.  Its just the wait...  About 3 years
	to get really good.  As per the Islay, a man to my own heart.
	Love the stuff... :*)

	Rgds,

	Dixon

------------------------------

From: DANCSC@aol.com
Date: Fri, 14 Jul 1995 12:02:44 -0400
Subject: Re: #1(2) The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

In a message dated 95-07-14 04:37:13 EDT, you write:

>Does anyone know when ESPN will broadcast this?
>Or when and where is the actual thing being held?

------------------------------

From: DANCSC@aol.com
Date: Fri, 14 Jul 1995 12:08:14 -0400
Subject: Re: #1(2) Camel Trophy

In a message dated 95-07-14 04:37:13 EDT, you write:

>Does anyone know when ESPN will broadcast this?
>Or when and where is the actual thing being held?

um.. it already happened, they were dealing with mayan temples and such this
year.. lots of injuries, people getting airlifted out, and the works, I saw
the date for an ESPN showing, but I forgot it,sadly I lost all the pages I
had printed out, for a while there was a fellow giving the daily play by play
on the net here... Really exciting this year.
Dan of Rosa

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Jul 1995 09:07:27 +0100
From: cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine)
Subject: Re: Replacement Bumbers Disco

 Bastiaan Houtkooper <zebra@xs4all.nl> writes:

>I am looking for replacement bumbers for the "plastic"ones on my '95 Disco 
 I would like to have a "real"strong Rover again! ( I am also interested in 
 drawings of home made designs)

 Here's one of our favorite home made design drawings,

 detail    __===                       ____________
  |     __/_]_]]                  __  / 
  --> .(_______).                / _] |
 ______(o)___(o)_______         / /   |
                                \ \   | disco
                                 \ \  |
                                  \ \ |_____
                                   \ \_____ \ frame
                 real strong bumper \  ____] \_____
                                     \ \__
                                      \___]

 Michael Carradine   Carradine Studios                          cs@crl.com
 Architect           Architecture Development Planning    Pgr 510-945-5000
 NCARB RIBA          PO Box 99, Orinda, CA 94563 USA   Ph/Fax 510-988-0900

 Mercedes-Benz Unimog 4x4 WWW page at:  http://www.crl.com/~cs/unimog.html

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Jul 95 09:21 MST
From: jhoward@argus.lowell.edu (James D. Howard II)
Subject: Re:  Aerodynamically speaking....

>James Howard of Flagstaff write about drafting off of an 18
>wheeler...It all depends upon how brave/foolish you are.

Not very - I maintained a 2 second gap.  Even at that distance, the
vacuum was enough to pull me along.  Tailgating is one of my pet
peeves.

James

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Jul 95 09:26 MST
From: jhoward@argus.lowell.edu (James D. Howard II)
Subject: Re: Anybody ever A/C a Series IIa?

>Due to lung problems, i have been advised to not own a car without air
>conditioning. With my present Mazda, this isn't a problem. However,
>old Churchill cannot become my daily driver unless I can figure out how
>to cram an air conditioner under the hood or elsewhere.

Do you need AC for the filtered air, or the cool air?  Last time I was
in Washignton DC, Hertz was out of the subcompacts I reserved.  And
compacts.  And midsizes.  They gave me a Crown Victoria.  Once I got
over feeling like a State Trooper, I noticed whenever I was in it, my
allergies went completely away.  It turns out it had those micron air
filters in the ventilation system.  It made me consider putting some
in front of a big fan inside my Land Rover, though, like a lot of my
projects, I haven't gotten around to trying it.  Probably because the
pollen has not been that bad this year.

James

------------------------------

From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date: 14 Jul 95 12:31:15 EDT
Subject: Tutorial: On the repair of wiper motors

Dixon:

Here's the revised copy of the wiper motor article. I don't think I've 
been excessively wordy, but you as editor know best.. 8*). If possible,
retain the title. I'm having an idea or two at making this a series of
easy how-to-do-it article of this type. Opinions?

     Yours, Alan
What the hell, I may as well type. I cant work on the beast....8*(

Article begins:

Having just had the unmitigated pleasure of reworking the
wiper motors on my Series IIa 109 pickup, I've decided to pull the lessons
learned in this process together into a tutorial for  those 
fortunate souls who haven't had this pleasure... if that's what
you want to call it.

First off, this applies to the Lucas motors used on Series II and IIa
vehicles. These are the newer motors with the rounded casings. The
older motors, with their squared-off casings, from what I am told are 
mechanically
similar but I haven't had one apart to check this personally, so beware.

Secondly, any road vehicle must have functional windshield wipers. This
means that they have to be on the truck and working or the local constabulary 
can
and will pull you over and ban your vehicle from the road for this. If you're 
going
to rework your motors, plan on doing the job in one sitting if at all possible.

On to the show, then....

1: Dismounting the motor from the truck:

The motors on my car  were held in place by a double-nut on a threaded
shaft. Two of these were used to mount each motor, and both were 
badly corroded on my example. The threaded shafts ended up
unscrewing from the motors, and are being replaced with the proper
thread of stainless-steel bolt. With the wiper blade removed by
loosening the mounting bolt and pulling it off the shaft, the motor
was free to be withdrawn into the cab.

I got off relatively unscathed in this process. I have heard of cases where the 
wiper mount, motor and windscreen have corroded themselves into an immovable
mess, and one case where a windscreen had to be scrapped because the 
corroded hardware could not be removed (Hi, Dixon!). Replacement parts for
the mounting bits are available, but make sure to protect the wiper shaft if 
you have
to resort to force in removing the motor.

Take care with it and expect to use penetrating oil and persuasion if yours are
badly corroded. Also, for your own peace of mind, expect to replace the mounting
studs. They can be easily fabricated from stainless-steel threaded stock, or 
barring
that, cut-down bolts of the proper size. 

The two wires on the motor were then disconnected, noting the
respective terminals they attached to. Pay attention here, as one
of the terminals is mounted o the motor shell (and as such is grounded 
to the chassis). 

NOTE: For those of us thinking of converting positive ground cars
to negative ground, these motors work quite well with either polarity
grounded. They turn the same way with either polarity to the shell
of the motor.

2: Disassembling the motor for cleaning:

Once on the bench, I ran each motor with a 12-volt power
supply. Both dragged badly, indicating that the gear grease had 
congealed.

I removed the rear cover of the motor by removing the brass slotted
nut at the center of the blade control and the two machine screws at
the left and right sides of the rear cover. After this, the rear cover was
free to come off, only needing a bit of persuasion with a plastic mallet
to come free.

Removal of the front cover was a bit more involved. The first item to be 
removed was a small metal block trough which the wiper shaft passed.
With this block removed, the shaft spring could be released by
straightening a crimped washer holding the wiper shaft in the motor.
Straightening this removed the tension from the locking spring for the
shaft, allowing it to slide back out through the motor. Instead of the crimped
washer, I am told that some of the motors have a circlip fitted into the
groove. Either way, disassembly doesn't change, but be careful not to
lose the clip if so equipped. With this fastener out, the three nuts holding
 the front cover on can be removed.

3: Motor cleanup and check-out:

Once you get to this point, your first reaction is going to be disgust at the
condition and amount of filthy, pasty grease that is all over the inside of the
gear case. That is precisely why we're here, as this grease is causing many
problems and must be renewed.

Before we disassemble anything, let's have a good look at what we're
disassembling. Looking at the gearcase end, the first thing you'll see
is a 110-pitch gear drilled with an offset bearing. In that bearing is the
pin from a shaft that runs to a follower arm with a hole down its center.
This is the bit that the wiper shaft comes out of.

Under the 110-pitch gear is a double gear, which engages both the
edge of the 110-pitch gear and the motor shaft. This intermediate gear
is made of phenolic and, I am told, can disintegrate if the motor is abused
with heavy loads. The motor shaft runs through the central casting into
the back half, where the windings, rotor and switching are.

What I'll be detailing here is a general cleanup/greasing/inspection. 
This cleared up 99% of the problems on both my motors, and seems
like the favorite mode of failure for this design.

If, however, once you clean up the grease and such and the motor still runs
slowly or not at all, then you may have an electrical fault in the rotor or
commutator coil. The repair of these is beyond the scope of this article, but
it can be done by an electric motor shop if replacement parts are not available.

If this is the case, though, check the brushes for proper contact  and look for 
broken
wires and similar problems. This could also be the problem, and could still be 
an easy fix.

Now comes the fun bit, where we get REALLY dirty. Fill a small container
with grease solvent - personally I like the newer orange-based stuff, as 
it's friendlier to the environment and my lungs. Whatever you do, don't use
acetone or any cleaner that might be unfriendly to the electrical insulation
on the wiring. If you can't get the orange-based cleaner, I have it on good 
authority that WD-40 will remove the grease without removing the wire 
insulation.
(Hi  again, Dixon!)

Working carefully, remove the gears from the front of the motor and clean 
them in the solvent, using a toothbrush to get out the stubborn bits of gunk
from the gearteeth. DON'T soak the fiber gear for an extended period - 
it WILL have problems if you do. Also clean the pins that are on the shaft
to the follower arm of accumulated crud.

Also, get a cotton swab into the bearing holes in the casting and clean them
out to eliminate the old grease completely.

We want to remove the follower arm from the casting to give it a good
cleaning inside and out. if yours are like mine, the edges of the back
of the hollow shaft are mushroomed, stopping it from sliding out. In this
case CAREFULLY file away the burrs and work the shaft out of the bearings.

DON'T FORCE IT OUT! You'll eat the bearings. Clean the inside hollow 
of the shaft with solvent, as well as the inside of the bearings the hollow
shaft rode in. Use a cotton swab with solvent, being careful to keep the
solvent off the electrical bits.

The motor rotor's the next bit we want to deal with. Its two bronze bushings
need to be cleaned and regreased. This part is tricky - If you don't feel
comfortable after reading it through, then skip it if the rotor turns freely
and runs OK.

Remove the two nuts holding the rear bearing in place. It will slide up
the motor shaft, and the carbon brushes will disengage from the copper
contacts. WATCH OUT FOR THE BRUSHES! If yours is like mine, they
will be slung forcefully out of the motor, landing several feet away.
If lost, don't panic. Most hardware stores can provide brushes for small
power tools that can be made to serve nicely with a bit of filing. As a 
matter of fact, I've replaced the brushes in both my motors anyway, as
they were badly worn.

Pivot the rear bearing assembly out of the way, being careful of the
wires from the brushes to the coil below. If you're comfortable with
soldering, it's much easier to simply disconnect the coil wires from
the rear bearing assembly, noting which went where.

 With this, the rotor can be withdrawn from the stator. Clean its bearing
 surfaces with solvent, also the bearings themselves.

4: Reassembly:

First thing to go back in is the motor rotor. Grease its bearing surfaces
with a good coat of an all-purpose grease, and reinsert it into the
hole in the stator. 

Fitting the rear bearing is a bit involved. You need to hold the brushes
open with the points of  a needlenose plier and slide the bearing
back over the rear rotor shaft, being careful of the attached wires at
all times. This is where removing the coil wires pays off, as you can
slip the assembly back on much easier if you don't have the 3-
dimensional motion restriction of the wires.

It's easier if you present the bearing assembly so that the end of the
rotor shaft can slip straight back into the bearing - hold it straight!
It seems tricky, but it can be done! At worst  tie the brushes back with
a bit of wire so you can devote both hands to engaging the shaft.
Reattach the rear bearing with the two nuts removed earlier and tighten.
If you removed the coil wires or broke one off, now is the time to resolder 
them.

Now, grease the bearings of each of the gears and put them back
in place in the front of the casting. The fiber gear goes in first, then the
110-pitch gear, then reinsert the hollow shaft you took out earlier, making
sure to grease all of the bearings and pivot points as you put it back
together.

A NOTE ON GREASE: 
  You might want to make very sure that the lubricant you use has 
proper cold-weather characteristics. Some all-purpose lubricants 
congeal in cold weather, making the operation of the wipers very
difficult. I personally used a silicon-based lubricant called Syl-Glide,
as it advertised constant viscosity at colder temperatures, and up as
high as +400F. Remember, these motors are going to take some pretty 
nasty temperature extremes sitting there in the sun, so be careful with
the lubricants you choose.

Once you have all of the bits back in properly, turn the rotor of the
motor by hand to make sure nothing's binding. If all's well, put the
front gearcase cover back on and test-run the motor, either on the
bench or off your Rover's battery.

If it passes, great!. Now we can put the wiper shaft back into the
motor and complete reassembly. Reinsert the wiper shaft from
the rear of the motor. Over the shaft from the front of the motor, slide
on the cleaned tension spring and either the washer you removed
 to free it, or a circlip of the proper size. Personally, I went with
the circlips to allow for periodic opening and regreasing of the
 motors.

5: Remounting:

Remounting the motors is simpler than removing them, as you've already 
caused all the damage you're going to...<grin>.  If the mounting rubbers 
and hardware are in good shape, all you need to do is bolt the motor back
on, perhaps smearing a bit of silicone grease on the sealing rubbers where
the motor shaft makes contact with them. Also, a little RTV sealant under the
aluminum mounting block helps eliminate water leaks at that point. Make sure
to clean away the excess, though, for a neat appearance.

If you need to replace the hardware, the cast parts and the rubber gaskets are 
available from most Rover suppliers. The threaded rods and nuts can be had
 locally, though, if they're all you need.  

Aligning the wiper blades may be a bit tricky, but shouldn't be a problem with 
a bit
of attention to detail. Present the motor to its installation spot on the 
windscreen with 
the rear handle in the parked (off) position, then mount and fasten the wiper 
blade
 where it should be (pointing to the right while facing the wiper blade from 
outside the
 car). This makes sure everyone's  in agreement as to the way things need to go
 when operating.

6: Conclusion:

Cleaning and servicing the wiper motors on your Series II or IIa is a simple, 
stress-free
task that can save you a lot of headaches and money down the road. These small 
motors
are well-built, and with a modicum of service will soldier on reliably in the 
rain effectively
forever.

       Al Richer

------------------------------

From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date: 14 Jul 95 12:32:45 EDT
Subject: Re: Wiper motor article:

I apologize, folks. I slipped and sent the revised copy of it to the
list instead of direcly to Dixon.

Again, my sincere apologies. Al R.

   

------------------------------

From: ROB@HARV-EHS.mhs.harvard.edu
Date: Fri, 14 Jul 1995 13:33:45 -0500 (EST)
Subject: AC for IIa

Willing to trade '84FJ60 Toyota Landcruiser with air conditioning for 
series IIa AND a pile of cash to keep the IIa going....Taylor.....Nah 
Just kidding, I'll keep my TLC a little while longer and my names not 
Taylor its Rob...I thought LRO's drank Pimms?? Friday? YES!

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Jul 1995 13:54:12 -0400 (EDT)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.emr.ca>
Subject: Re: Wiper motor article:

On 14 Jul 1995, Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus wrote:

> I apologize, folks. I slipped and sent the revised copy of it to the
> list instead of direcly to Dixon.
> Again, my sincere apologies. Al R.

	I am sure they don't mind... :-)  Besides, they get to see the
	type of stuff that appears in OVLR's monthly newletter...

	Rgds,

	Dixon

	PS.  I chopped the windscreen up to rescue the motor because 
	     I have more windscreens than I know what to do with.  As
	     far as I am concerned, they are disposable.  The motors
	     on the other hand are a bit harder to get a hold of...
	     Windscreens don't break, these things do...  The last
	     bent windscreen I had I fixed with a sledge and a concrete
	     pad.  Looks fine now...

------------------------------

From: LRDEFNDR3@aol.com
Date: Fri, 14 Jul 1995 14:16:23 -0400
Subject: re:  loose exhaust bolts

Peter C. Parsons  writes,
                                                              >    My
just-delivered Disco has foldover metal tabs (Part 
>of the gasket?) to keep the subject nuts from vibrating 
>loose or off.  Apparently, someone took this problem 
>for action when it came up a while back, and the factory 
>now turns out Discos with the engineering change 
>incorporated.  A case of the system working!!!
                                   I'm done lurking, gotta butt in.  I have a
94 NA D90.  My 3.9 also has the tabs designed to hold the exhaust manifold
bolts inplace...shame that they don't work.  I was plowing through the swamps
of North Carolina with about 12k miles on the odometer when I a heard "Blap
blap blap" reminiscent of my old Ser IIa which has an exhaust leak, and oil
leak and transmission leak...etc.  Well, I stopped to investigate the
offending sound and discovered that one, no.. two exhaust manifold bolts were
missing and three others were loose and nearly gone.  The "blaping" sound was
from one of the indvidual exhaust port gaskets pivoting down on the remaining
bottom bolt and blocking the exhaust.  "Gee, that shouldn't have happened",
said the service manager.  And I was worried that the endearing quirks of my
Ser IIa would be absent in my brandy new Defender.  Glad to see that I'll
have some things to keep me interested.  Oh yeah, that clanking sound
discussed in the last few days.. got it, or is mine a clunk.  Probably more
of a clunk.  I was writing it off to driver tecnique and a firm clutch
compared to the IIa.  At 32k miles I don't hear it any more.  She's running
like a top with just enough endearing quirks.

Happy Rovering, Thom

                                                                         Thom
Bruce  LRDEFNDR3@aol.com          

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Jul 1995 19:22:04 +0100
From: cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk (Charlie Wright)
Subject: Re: AC for IIa

At 1:33pm 14/7/95, ROB@HARV-EHS.mhs.harvard.edu wrote:

>Taylor its Rob...I thought LRO's drank Pimms?? Friday? YES!

Only when they live in Cambridge...

cw

C. R. Wright                                    Dept. of Genetics
+44 (0)1223 333970 telephone                    Univ. of Cambridge
+44 (0)1223 333992 telefax                      Downing Street, Cambs.
cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk                        CB2 3EH, England

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Jul 1995 14:56:33 -0400 (EDT)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.emr.ca>
Subject: Re: Beaches making us soft!!!

On Fri, 14 Jul 1995, Daryl Webb brings up a subject close to heart:

> > > Guinness, Bah, *Real* land-rover owners drink Coopers Ale or Extra Stout..
> > 	Send a case... :-)  Container might be more accurate though...
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
> thicker creamier Guinness.  Yum on cold nights (see below) Hey why dont you
> come over for Blinman 1997??

	So, like who makes this Coopers stuff?  A quick trip to the 
	provincial liquor monopoly could get a case imported (albeit over
	a four+ month period...<ahem>)   What is a Blinman '97?

> Ok I would have agreed with this when I lived in Darwin but now I'm here in
> "temperate" Adelaide its always too cold to go to the beach....  
> (Ok so I'm a cold weather woose, take me back to the tropics NOW)
> (this should bring a few SA lurkers out in the open :-)

	Too cold to go to the beach?  I didn't think anything ever got below
	a normal beer temperature there.  You need to visit Maine or
	New Hampshire for a dip in the North Altantic... :-)  Eye opening,
	then again so are the Great Lakes about now still...

> "special compliance" plate (ie personal import of non OZ available car  eg
> TR8's).  I wonder what Leslie knows (you still with us ??)  Probably duties
> and taxes would kill the appeal....  

	Leslie knows the USA...  TR-8's eh... nice cars... Nearly had one
	before.  Might stil get one eventually...

	Ahhh, Guinness time in two hours!  (hi Ben!)

------------------------------

From: DANCSC@aol.com
Date: Fri, 14 Jul 1995 15:24:41 -0400
Subject: was it Tom Rowe asking about camel trophy?

In a message dated 95-07-14 04:37:13 EDT, you write:

>Does anyone know when ESPN will broadcast this?
>Or when and where is the actual thing being held?

um.. it already happened, they were dealing with mayan temples and such this
year.. lots of injuries, people getting airlifted out, and the works, I saw
the date for an ESPN showing, but I forgot it,sadly I lost all the pages I
had printed out, for a while there was a fellow giving the daily play by play
on the net here... Really exciting this year.
Dan of Rosa

------------------------------

From: Bill Yerazunis <crash@concentra.com>
Date: Fri, 14 Jul 1995 16:27:59 -0400
Subject: Re: Disco Exhaust Bolts

Heck, My bolts did the same thing!

Driver's side.  Two missing, one loose.

Replaced 'em with stainless steel.

No problems since on that- BUT now the exhaust heat shield keeps 
rattling whenever the engine is warmed up and at idle.  All the bolts
are tight.  Anybody got a solution?

	-Bill Y. (& Sally Xray- '94 Disco)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Jul 95 18:01:44 EDT
From: tonyb@ejv.com (Tony Bromberg)
Subject: Range Rover rusty tailgate repair

At one point we all face this problem.  A rusted tail gate. :^(

Mine just started to rust in several places.  Is it possible
to take it apart, acid dip it and refinish.  Or perhaps
some other way of treating the rust?

Thanks
TonyB

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Jul 95 18:28 EST
From: Biosource <0003479098@mcimail.com>
Subject: RR console heat problem.

Thanks to everyone for the advice on the missing problem in a 90 Range Rover.

Problem #2 is heat coming through the center console into the passenger 
compartment.  It is especially irritating on very hot days.  Is this normal for 
a Range Rover, or was someone mucking around underneath with the heat shielding?

Also, is there a market for used three-spoke factory alloy wheels off my 90?  I 
put on a set of 95 five-spoke cyclones and will part with the old wheels for any
reasonable offer (or will trade for factory running boards).

Regards,

Guy della-Cioppa
Vacaville, California
90 Range Rover (Beluga Black, of course)
707-446-8461
Biosource@mcimail.com
Guy_dell@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Jul 1995 13:51:46 -1000
Subject: Help Me Unsubscribe
From: Paul Sturm <psturm@ilhawaii.net>

-- [ From: Paul Sturm * EMC.Ver #2.05 ] --

I'm a happy Rover owner on the Big Island of Hawaii--but an unhappy Digest
recipient. I don't have time to read all this material, and receiving it
here in the middle of the Pacific is costing me plenty. I've sent several
"unsubscribe" messages as indicated. I always get an acknowledgment, but
the Digest keeps coming. Could someone please help me turn things off? 

Also, I believe that's a abbreviated or less frequent version. I do I get
that instead?

Regards. 

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 15 Jul 1995 02:38:20 +0200
From: terje@tvnorge.no (Terje Krogdahl)
Subject: NLRK 20th anniversary rally

The Norwegian Landr-Rover Club will hold its 20th anniversary rally 
in Hunderfossen, just north of Lillehammer, Norway, the site of 
the 1994 Winter Olympics.

The dates are August 8-13.

Further information may be found on my web pages at

http://www.tvnorge.no/~terje/nlrk/index.e.html in English, or

http://www.tvnorge.no/~terje/nlrk/index.html in Norwegian.

Most of the information is typed in from the club newsletter 4WD.

Although I am not assiciated with the rally organizers, feel free to
contact me with any questions you may have.

The pages are still under construction, I'm going to include a road 
description for the Bergen-Lillehammer route for those who arrive by
ferry from England. Other road descriptions may be available upon
request.

Have fun,
TK

terje@tvnorge.no
http://www.tvnorge.no/~terje/index.e.html
1972 88" SIII
(Currently in bits and pieces, hopefully a working Landie by August...)

------------------------------

From: ecoethic@rcinet.com
Date: Fri, 14 Jul 1995 22:37:30 -0400
Subject: Valve guide seal replacement

For John Putnam & David John Place:

I recently changed the valve guide seals on my Ser. III petrol using two 
screwdrivers, an old brake adjusting tool, and a magnetic probe to retrieve small 
pieces. I took the rocker assembly off, removed the rockers and springs, and 
reattached the shaft to use as a fulcrum point. I covered the shaft with masking 
tape to protect the surface. I was able to replace all of the seals and reassemble 
everything in only eleven hours! I only lost one part in all that time, I suffered 
no injuries, but I am afraid I was unkind to all who entered my garage during this 
time.

You have to be a masochist or a very cheap person to go through this process, 
but I did eliminate the smoking that always occurred on start-up (210,000 miles) 
and the seals only cost $2-2.50 a piece. I will need a full valve job someday, but 
for right now my compression readings are between 155-165 lbs.

The old seals had up to a sixteenth of an inch gap and were of no use. I suspect 
that many of us could benefit from seal replacement in place of a valve job. The 
use of TRW Teflon seals sounds like a good solution to a quality setup when the 
time comes. I really doubt that these umbrella type rubber seals last much more 
than 50,000 to 60,000 miles. If any one wants to attempt what I did, good luck, 
and keep a tarp over the engine area to catch the springs when they fly (not if). I 
did not, and I am still missing a spring keeper that bounced off the ceiling, the 
workbench, to parts unknown. What is needed, in reflection, is an L-shaped tool 
that will depress the springs in a proper manner. Has anyone out there ever 
devised or heard of such a tool? It sure would save much wasted time.

Walter Pokines
Tipp City, Ohio

60 II, 67 IIA, 72 III, 72 III

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Jul 1995 23:15:50 -0500 (CDT)
From: David John Place <umplace@cc.UManitoba.CA>
Subject: Re: Valve guide seal replacement

Well there a number of great vavle depressers to do the job.  The best 
looks like a pair of pliers and the way it works is that two arms go 
under the bottom of the springs while a plate pushes down on top of the 
springs.  There is a hole in the plate to take the two keepers out.  
Another variety uses something like a "C" clamp to accomplish the same 
thing.  I have often used my drill press with a semi-circular disk so I 
can fetch the keepers out.  Of course this requires the head off.  
Finally, there is the kind of "L" shaped thing you discribed used mostly 
for small block Chevs to depress the springs.  I found that a flat bar 
nail puller did just as good a job if I make the nail pulling "V" a bit 
bigger so I could get the keepers out.  By the way for the fellows who 
wanted to grind their own valves, You can use an electric drill but you 
need the kind with reverse on it.  You have to reverse the direction or 
you will get a poor lap job.  I have a Snap-On tool like an egg beater 
type drill which automatically reverses every 1/4 turn as you grind and 
it does a good job.  Better still take the thing to an auto machine shop 
and make sure you ask for a three angle valve job.  You can't beat what a 
machine that does three angles does over the run of the mill old single 
angle machines which just rotated the valve against a grinding stone.  
Dave VE4PN

------------------------------

From: Russell Burns <burns@cisco.com>
Subject: Re: RR console heat problem.
Date: Fri, 14 Jul 95 21:46:39 PDT

I found that my console got hotter when I removed the front air
dam. I constructed a temporary one last year when I towed
a trailer to the Rover rally in Colorado. It ran cooler as it
funneled more air over the trans. I may build another
for this years trip, but make it removable for offroad.
It scooped up a lot of mud.

Russ Burns
91 R-ROver
94 D-90
Both headed west for the rally.

> To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net

	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 24 lines)]
> Biosource@mcimail.com
> Guy_dell@aol.com

------------------------------

From: LANDROVER@delphi.com
Date: Sat, 15 Jul 1995 01:59:35 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Proper Land-Rover beer....

Spenny (et al.) speak the *unspeakable*
 
> Alan writes....
>     Speaking as a homebrewer, 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 11 lines)]
> Land Rover Stout...
> Looks like 90wt., tastes like heaven.

Holy Crow! We all caught hell from mum last year for bringing up the
subject of beer on a Land Rover mailing list.. (blast shield up!)

Cheers
Mike

------------------------------

From: LANDROVER@delphi.com
Date: Sat, 15 Jul 1995 01:59:45 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Gene Jockey

 
> But don't thank me, it's only my job... ;-)

Hey Charlie...

How do you tell the sex of a chromosome??

Take down it's jeans...

Heard it already, eh?

Cheers
Mike

------------------------------

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