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From: azw@aber.ac.uk (Andy Woodward)
Subject: Re: Pitted Swivel Balls
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 1995 08:28:12 UNDEFINED

\My swivel balls had several small, albeit fairly deep, pits.  I cleaned out
\the rust, filled the pits with epoxy (trade name "JB Weld"), and sanded them
\smooth.  So far so good.  The seals seem to appreciate having a smooth
\surface to move over!  Give it a try.  It's lots cheaper than new parts if
\the pitting isn't too severe.

This is a standard 'fix' for pitted motorcycle fork stanchions. No reason why 
it shouldnt work here too.

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
        Just another roadkill on the Information Superhighway
+++++++++++++++++++++++ None-%er #1 +++++++++++++++++++++++++++

------------------------------

From: Andrew Grafton <A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk>
Subject: Gearbox weight
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 95 12:53:23 BST

Anyone out there know the weight of a SIII (or IIA will be close
enough) gearbox off the top of their head?  That is, excluding 
the transfer box, bellhousing, overdrive and suchlike.

If I was to want to take an expedition spare for the monkey-metal 
'boxes in our SIII's, then should I just take the whole unit and drop 
it in (ha,ha) if things go wrong, or take the parts and leave the casing
behind...  Repair time isn't a problem, but do the casings crack?.
I don't want to be holding casings together with binder twine and 
ratchet straps, pouring oil in every 5 minutes, or trying to DC
weld Aluminium ;-)

I know IIA 'boxes are 'better' (subjective), but we can do a whole lot
more with three off SIII 'boxes (1 spare) than with 2 III's and 1
II.

Transfer 'boxes rarely go wrong - famous last words - , but is there 
a weak part I should be thinking of taking as a spare, just in case?
Are SIII and SII transfer 'boxes completely the same internally?

Thanks for the help,

Andy,
A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk
In gearbox mode today

------------------------------

From: Andrew Grafton <A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk>
Subject: Egypt/Sudan border + Sudan generally
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 95 13:03:55 BST

We are trying to gather information about the status of the
border between Egypt and Sudan, but are short on leads and
people with actual knowledge of the situation.  

Soon we will be (hopefully) driving thro' Egypt and Sudan 
to Ethiopia and on down to South Africa.

The relevant Embassies in the UK are hopeless, as are the 
Tourist Offices.

Just wondering if there were any 'rover types out there
who know anything or know anyone who does...

All the best,

Andy
A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Jul 1995 09:28:48 -0400
From: kelliott@intranet.on.ca (Keith Elliott)
Subject: Stalling

Hi everyone.

        Well I am another LR owner that has been lurking here for quite a
while. I haven't had any thing to ask so I have just been enjoying the
reading. Now I have a question. I have a '61 series II 88" SW, I haven't
finished the restoration on it so it isn't on the road yet but I do use is
to do chores around the house. Lately I have noticed something strange
happening. After running for a while and the temp. gets up around 80 deg.
the beast starts kinda choking and the stalls, sounds like it ran outta gas.
While it is coughing away the cold start/choke light or whatever the light
on the right of the dash is comes on. When I try to re-start it it just
turns over and doesn't start. If I pull the choke all the way out it will
start and run for a few seconds before stalling again. If I do this and
touch the throttle it chokes and sputters and will most certainly die. When
I leave it sit for about half an hour it will fire right up again no
problem. There is fuel getting to the carb because I pulled the fuel line
off the crab just after it died and there was gas at the carb. Any ideas
anyone could give me would be appreciated. It is not a big problem yet
because I am not driving it but I would like to find the solution.

Thanks
Keith

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date:          Tue, 11 Jul 1995 08:23:31 GMT -0600
Subject:       Re: Gearbox weight

Andy,
Whoa! 
IMHO if you're that nervous about your gearboxes, I think I'd do a 
teardown inspection and replace any suspect parts, or replace them 
with non-syncro boxes. I've never seen a case crack. I would think 
that it would take a heafty impact to do it and since my experience 
has been all non-catastrophic gearbox failures, ie. no internal 
exploding parts, I would suspect it's a not-to-worry issue.
Spares in general.
>From reading I've done, it seems that the bigest cause of mechanical 
problems on expeditions is overloading. Actually that's been true in 
my general working-vehicle activities also. You can cut down on it 
obviously by having interchangable vehicles and thus common spares 
which it sounds as if you're doing. I'd say keep the weight well 
under the max if you posibly can. Leave that extra payload capacity 
for fuel & water.
Found any of thoses books?
Tom

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

Date: 11 Jul 95 09:33:03 EDT
From: "BENJAMIN G. NEWMAN" <71773.3457@compuserve.com>
Subject: Rover value.

I am in the process of having Gary Landes change out my 6cyl engine in my 1967
ser 11A NADA 109" wagon with a Turner rebuilt high performence 4cyl. engine.
Will this conversion drasticly alter the value of this wagon?
Benjamin G. Newman

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Jul 1995 10:53:45 -0400 (EDT)
From: Jon Humphrey <jh5r+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: Re: Stalling

Keith, try a new coil.

 After running for a while and the temp. gets up around 80 deg.
>the beast starts kinda choking and the stalls, sounds like it ran outta gas.
>While it is coughing away the cold start/choke light or whatever the light
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
>touch the throttle it chokes and sputters and will most certainly die. When
>I leave it sit for about half an hour it will fire right up again.

Jon

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Jul 1995 10:54:31 -0400
From: rparker@tiac.net (Randy Parker)
Subject: 95 RR recall

FYI from an LRNA press release...

Land Rover just announced a worldwide recall of all 1995 Range Rovers (4.0,
4.6, diesel, etc.) due to a brake hose problem around the ABS pump.   [I
don't know if this affects the 95 RR Classic.]   It's a minor problem that
can be repaired at the dealer in 30 mins.
-----------------------------------------------------------------
-- Randy Parker, NoteSystems, Brookline, MA   (rparker@tiac.net)
   WWW Page:     http://www.tiac.net/users/rparker/
   "They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little 
   temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety." -- Ben Franklin
------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Jul 1995 17:15:46 +0200
From: dbeers@eu.wang.com (David Beers)
Subject: Re: increasing turbo longevity

Thanks to Tom Rowe for the turbo tips.

This leads me to a question that I have had in the back of my mind for a while :

If you happen to be in a desolate part of the world and your turbo ceases to 
function without destroying the rest of the engine (seizure?), can you 
continue to drive it without risking further damage to the engine?

I have heard advice against the use of turbos for expedition use because of 
the the added complexity in case of failure.  However, if you can continue 
your trip (with the corresponding loss in power) than it may not be such an 
issue.  Any ideas? 

Thanks for your help.

-David
1989 Land Rover 90 TD Hardtop 

------------------------------

From: Mr Ian Stuart <Ian.Stuart@ed.ac.uk>
Date:          Tue, 11 Jul 1995 16:30:19 +0000
Subject:       Re: 95 RR recall

On 11 Jul 95, Randy Parker wrote:

> Land Rover just announced a worldwide recall of all 1995 Range Rovers
> (4.0, 4.6, diesel, etc.) due to a brake hose problem around the ABS pump.
>   [I don't know if this affects the 95 RR Classic.]   It's a minor
> problem that can be repaired at the dealer in 30 mins.
I've just spoken to Appleyard LandRover here in Edinburgh, they have had 
no paperwork about this problem as yet - for either the New RR or the 
Classic RR.

Please could someone verify this with another Dealer (I've a few contacts I want 
to pass this on to..)

thanks....

     ----** Ian Stuart (Computing Officer)        +44 31 650 6205
Royal (Dick) School of Veterinary Studies, Edinburgh University. 
 <http://www.vet.ed.ac.uk/> or <http://www.tardis.ed.ac.uk/~kiz/>

------------------------------

From: Andrew Grafton <A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: increasing turbo longevity
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 95 16:46:19 BST

> Thanks to Tom Rowe for the turbo tips.
> This leads me to a question that I have had in the back of my mind for a while :
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
> function without destroying the rest of the engine (seizure?), can you 
> continue to drive it without risking further damage to the engine?

This depends whether or not the engine ingested parts of the impeller.
If the turbo just siezed then chances are you're OK, but if the impeller
shattered then there will be shards everywhere and it will probably need
cleaning out, even thought the engine may be running 'fine' (apparently).

So if the turbo goes; remove it, dismantle and if it's in one bit then
you should be OK.  Probably removing the impeller blades from the hub
is the best option, as then you can reassemble the unit seals and all
and put it back in line.

I can't believe I just suggested that...  but it seems to follow logically.

Your timing, exhaust pressures and all kinds of other stuff will be out
but the engine should still run with the appropriate adjustments.

> I have heard advice against the use of turbos for expedition use because of 
> the the added complexity in case of failure.  However, if you can continue 
> your trip (with the corresponding loss in power) than it may not be such an 
> issue.  Any ideas? 

Just my thoughts... I only have experiance of turbos on Perkins biggish
engines, which seem to run OK without the turbo there as long as you
pipe up the holes in the inlet & exhaust lines.

All the best,

Andy

------------------------------

From: azw@aber.ac.uk (Andy Woodward)
Subject: Re:  Valve Job Advice Please
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 1995 16:56:51 UNDEFINED

\My only experience with clicking sounds + smoke has been on a diesel, 

Be VERY wary of light ticking or tinkling sounds from a 2.25 deisel. It can be 
the injection chamber rattling round prior to dropping into the cylinder. This 
is followed by a LARGE BANG and lots of shrapnel.

Good laugh when it happens to >someone elses< engine........
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
        Just another roadkill on the Information Superhighway
+++++++++++++++++++++++ None-%er #1 +++++++++++++++++++++++++++

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date:          Tue, 11 Jul 1995 11:25:57 GMT -0600
Subject:       Re: increasing turbo longevity

> This leads me to a question that I have had in the back of my mind for a while :
> If you happen to be in a desolate part of the world and your turbo ceases to 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> function without destroying the rest of the engine (seizure?), can you 
> continue to drive it without risking further damage to the engine?

David,
Theoretically yes. As Andy said your pressures will be screwy. Idealy 
you would remove the boost impeller as he said, but you would have to 
fashion a spacer of some sort so you could reattach the nut that 
retains the impeller. This keeps the shaft and exhaust side impeller from 
backing out into and trashing the housing. If the turbo is seized, it 
will really restrict your exhaust flow. And if were seized, (because 
of the shaft seizeing rather than an impeller seizing) then 
freeing it up would probably only get you a little ways before it 
seized again. If it seized because of an impeller, then that means it 
trashed the impeller housing and you probably have many bits in you 
engine. But a little ways is better than none I guess.
I'd make DAMN sure the turbo was in good shape before I left.
Tom

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

From: rarm@lanl.gov
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 1995 11:39:53 -0700

taking trip to central-south america. need info on diesel defender 110, ie,
availability in usa, maintenance record, cost and anything else of
relevance. thanks.

robert

____________________________
robert matzner
cst-4
msc345
los alamos national laboratory
los alamos, nm 87545
(505)667-7952
fax:(505)665-3166
rarm@lanl.gov
_____________________________

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Jul 95 10:39:46 MST
From: DEBROWN@SRP.GOV
Subject: Results of "transmission request" inquiry...

FROM:  David Brown                           Internet: debrown@srp.gov
       Computer Graphics Specialist * Mapping Services & Engr Graphics
       PAB219 (602)236-3544 -  Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486
SUBJECT: Results of "transmission request" inquiry...
Several of you have requested that I posted the results of my inquiry as
to reputable suppliers of Series transmissions (gearboxes). Here are the
replies I've received:

************************************************************************

From: Charlie Wright <cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk>

Dave,

I don't use Paddock, so I can't comment fairly. They do get a poor rep.

I don't know the others at all, sorry.

The prices are a little low, I expect. Try adding 5-10% (a guess).

You do get what you pay for.

Remember, those prices are most likely for _exchange_. Meaning they want
your old gearbox back.  Check this, it doubles your shipping and customs
hassle.  If you want to buy the gearbox outright, I bet you'll find the
prices are 200-250% those quoted.

There is an engineering firm that always advertises up front in the mag.
(name escapes me) which specialises in engines. Usually a two-page colour
layout. The do lots of V8's and 2.25's as well. I bet they will do recon
gearboxes. They are known as one of the best (and their prices reflect this).

Good luck,
Charlie

***********************
From: Peter Venters <venters@atm.ox.ac.uk>
Dear Dave,

Hello. For what it is worth, my experience with reconditioned L-R series 2A
gearboxes is: Darbyshire Land-Rover - cheap (about UKP250+VAT 3-4 years
ago), but quite noisy when new, and became unusably so after
about 25k miles. LEGS - not so cheap, runs very nicely from new, no
problems yet (but only 5k miles old!). LEGS regularly do US shipments.
The one I had sent to me here in the UK arrived very clean, with all the
shiny steel bits nicely greased.

Both were in a SWB series 1, with a Perkins 4.182 diesel.

When trying to source a replacement, LEGS were one of the places who
insisted that they used all original manufacturer parts. They do not run
up the gearboxes on a test bed however (but then I suspect this latter
approach may just be used to jusitfy getting away with less good parts). A
friend of mine who has gone through something like 3 gearboxes recently
has become convinced that his problems stem mainly from poor
reconditioning, not using original manufacturer parts.

I have no experience with Paddocks gearboxes; friends of mine have not
had good experience with engines reconditioned by them (2.25 diesel
crankshaft breaking).

Hope this is of some use -

Peter

***********************

From: "gshroder" <gshroder@[196.7.70.131]>

Hi!
One of our party (71 IIa shortie) snapped a lay-shaft in the middle of the
Kalahari,
Botswana.  2 110's went to Maun & managed to locate a 2nd-hand replacement
part which was flown in to us (thanks to GPS's).

Just a caution - ensure that you order the right part.  Depending on
the circlip/bearing combination, the part no. has a different "suffix".
Unfortunately I don't know which is which.

Happy hunting.

Cape Town, South Africa
85 109 S/W

**************************************************************************

I was not able to contact L.E.G.S. in the UK, so I don't know what they
offer, but my suspissions would be that it'd be a good product. I called
Mid Atlantic Rover in Kansas City MO 816-763-3797 and his prices were
around $800 (US) to $1000 for a rebuilt, the $1000 box having progressively
higher (lower?) gears, eliminating the need for an overdrive, while leaving
1st gear as is. (I think he said this was done in the x-case?)

I called AEW Paddock, and they sell for $160 (Pounds) plus $50 "sur charge"
for the old unit. Said they have all new bearings.... No warranty overseas.
For the $50 (Pounds) I'd just as much rather keep my old gearbox. But I'm
still thinking that I should go with L.E.G.S. in the UK.

I think what I'm going to do, is order a complete rebuilt from L.E.G.S.
at around $300 (Pounds) plus $50?? sur charge plus shipping $250????(US)
for a total of around $800 and I get to keep my old box. (Just a wild guess
on the shipping cost, probably less than that though.)

Any last minute advice before I order?? I'll probably order this week, or
next. (Getting a bonus from work on the 21st!) :-)

#=======#                Never doubt that a small group of individuals
|__|__|__\___            can change the world... indeed, it's the only
| _|  |   |_ |}          thing that ever has.
"(_)""""""(_)"                                          -Margaret Mead

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Jul 1995 11:38:49 -0400
From: Tony_Bonanno@nps.gov (Tony Bonanno)
Subject: WAXOIL

Hi folks!

I've seen several references to something called "waxoil".  What is
Waxoil?  What is it used for?  Where can you get it (in the States)?

Thanks for your help..

Tony Bonanno

------------------------------

From: "John R. Benham" <BENHAM@WFOCLAN.USBM.GOV>
Date:          Tue, 11 Jul 1995 11:13:20 +1100
Subject:       Snorkel Power!

Dear LRO's,

    I recently installed a MANTEC snorkel on my petro Land Rover SIIA 
SWB.  I connected all of the proper ducting, and repositioned the K&N 
air filter from my Weber single barrel to the snorkel intake.  
Before snorkel installation, I used just the K&N air filter, not the 
original oil bath.

    My home lies off a hill accessed by a road with a 300-foot 
climb relief west of Spokane.  I use this hill for my `beta 
testing' of engine add-ons to determine any increase of engine power. 
Normally, I accelerate on the flat grade to 65 mph only to decelerate 
to 45-50 mph while climbing this hill every day returning from work. 
Since I have installed the snorkel, I can now climb this hill easily 
at 55 mph - A 5-10 MPH INCREASE!  I have not changed anything else in 
my engine, power train, or tires.  So the additional power must be 
due to the snorkel.

    HOW CAN THIS BE?
    
    Could this phenomena be due to:

    1. A denser cooler air source for the carburetor?
    2. Intake air under a positive pressure? (super charger affect)
    3. ...or Elvis Presley giving a helping hand to an old Land Rover?
    
    Suggestions and comments from others having snorkels welcomed...

Thanks,

John R. Benham - Editor
N.3616 Dowdy Road                 `The Rover Runner'
Spokane, WA  99204  USA               ______
                                     |______\_____
1968 88 IIA Marine Blue      *---   [|_/-\____/-\_|}
  The `BWANA' Mobile           *---    (O)    (O)        

509.747.0692 (H); 509.353.2700 (W); E-Mail: benham@wfoclan.usbm.gov

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date:          Tue, 11 Jul 1995 13:54:07 GMT -0600
Subject:       Re: Snorkel Power!

>     HOW CAN THIS BE?
>     Could this phenomena be due to:
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)]
>     3. ...or Elvis Presley giving a helping hand to an old Land Rover?
>     Suggestions and comments from others having snorkels welcomed...
Well, normally I'd say it was Elvis Presley, but I saw him at a laundromat 
here in Madison, WI that day. 
Tom

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Jul 95 11:59:08 -0700
From: "TeriAnn Wakeman"  <twakeman@apple.com>
Subject: Re: WAXOIL

In message <199507111748.MAA28250@butler.uk.stratus.com> Tony Bonanno writes:
> To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net

	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 12 lines)]
> Waxoil?  What is it used for?  Where can you get it (in the States)?
> Thanks for your help..

Waxol is an anti rust product that is primarily beeswax with a bunch of rust 
inhibitors in suspension.  It tends to remain slightly sticky and tends to be 
self healing.  I have used it liberally inside my TR3  And I plan to finish off 
the carn by spraying it inside my LR frame.

You can get it in a DYI applicator for spraying or refill cans.  It can be 
brushed on but you get a better coating spraying it.  The secret is to warm it 
up until it melts then spray it.

Its availuable in the US through mail order from Moss Motors 800-235-6954.

TeriAnn Wakeman              .sig closed for remodeling
twakeman@apple.com         
              
                         
                       

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Jul 1995 12:28:44 -0700
From: growl@hsmpk14a-101.Eng.Sun.COM (William L. Grouell)
Subject: pos/neg

  While driving to work today, contemplating the bouncing needle on my
fuel gauge, it came to mind that the recent thread on changing the ground
polarity missed an important component, the coil. The wiring to the primary
side of the coil should be switched. Even though the ignition system will
appear to be functioning just fine without changing the wiring to the coil,
there is a subtle advantage to changing it. The spark plug gap resistance is
less if the center electrode is negative. This is due to the fact that
electrons will jump more enthusiastically from a hot surface than a cold one.
The center electrode of the spark plugs runs hotter than the outside. Not
switching the coil input is the same as putting colder range plugs into your
Rover.
  If the markings on the coil seem ambiguous, (like SW and DST or whatever
Lucas did), there is a way to tell if the spark polarity is correct. With
the engine running, remove a plug wire and get the spark jumping to a ground
point. Stick the end of a lead (carbon, really) pencil into the spark stream
and you can see which direction the electrons are flowing. The spark should
come from the wire toward the ground point. Try not to get it going up
your arm and out your belt buckle to the wing, it's uncomfortable.

R, bg    "Very funny, Scotty.  Now beam down my clothes."
     .             .        \/                  .      *           .
 ____________________      .     __
 \___________________|) .____.--"--"---._____  .                .
         .     ||   .  /-----._________.----/     .       .       
   .   /=======||=====/___/     "--"
       \==\_______________|(-             .                 *          .
  .                                                 .
                 .    *                          @

   .                  .             .                             .

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Jul 1995 13:26:36 -0400
From: Tony_Bonanno@nps.gov (Tony Bonanno)
Subject: Re[2]: WAXOIL

TerriAnn,

Thanks for the enlightment.  I had heard about a wax type of frame
treatment, but was not sure that it was the "waxoil" .. appreciate the
phone number too.  Good timing as I am continuing with my on-going
restoration of my old series IIA and I'm at the point where I'm
cleaning up the frame now.  Frame has some surface rust and scaling
paint, but is basically very solid.  I've started on the outside with
POR-15.  Sounds like WAXOIL would be the perfect thing for spraying in
those hard to reach places and the inside of the frame...

Cheers,

Tony Bonanno

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date:          Tue, 11 Jul 1995 18:04:47 GMT -0600
Subject:       Re: pos/neg

> come from the wire toward the ground point. Try not to get it going up
> your arm and out your belt buckle to the wing, it's uncomfortable.

Well I guess, but there's some places people would pay good money for that.

Seriously though, there's another reason to switch the coil polarity. just 
like in welding the electrons jumping across will take bits of metal with 
them. You want the bits going in the right direction so the proper part of 
the plug erodes.

PS. Like you sig. How come things like that never happened on TV?
Tom

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

From: Leland J Roys <roys@hpkel13.cup.hp.com>
Subject: Clanking 1st gear
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 95 16:27:30 PDT

Hi.

Just wanted to let you know. I just got my '94 defender back from its
first 7500 mile service ($230 bucks). Remember I asked on the net about
the clanking sound whn letting up on the clutch in 1st gear. The service
manager said that it is normal and said it is the linkage to the transmision
(I not up on this type of thing so I bought that). The noise is actually 
louder than ever now, but if the service guy says so.....

Leland Roys
roys@cup.hp.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 Jul 1995 10:34:46 +1000
From: ra.walker@qut.edu.au (Rodney Walker)
Subject: Costs of 2nd hand 90's and Jeep Wranglers in UK

Hi all

In September I go to the UK to work for 6 months. I really want to buy a 2nd
hand 90 or Jeep Wrangler over there. Can anyone give me some typical prices
for these vehicles. I'd be looking for low mileage and 89 or newer.

Is a NAS 90 available in the UK? I'd love one to park besides my 55 series 1.

Best regards

Rod Walker

------------------------------------------------------------------------
Rodney A. Walker                                  44 Ford GPW
Space Centre for Satellite Navigation             44 Willys MB
Queensland University of Technology               88 Cherokee
George St, Brisbane                               90 Wrangler
4000, Queensland, Australia                       85 CJ7, 85 J10
voice +61-7-8705187                               44 GPA, 44 Dodge Truck
fax   +61-7-8641517                               79 Cherokee Chief
                                                  56 CJ3B
                                                  55 Series 1 Land Rover
                                                  53 Series 1 Land Rover
------------------------------------------------------------------------
 

------------------------------

From: JCassidyiv@aol.com
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 1995 22:20:10 -0400
Subject: Koenig Winch

Well, I went and bought the Koenig winch from my neighbor.  My brother-in-law
and I spent about an hour and a half cutting it off the frame of his Jeep
"woods buggy" that he used to skid wood out of the forest with.  Seems his
son thought it would be better mounted on the rear of said vehicle and welded
it no end.
       My new questions on this winch are; 1.)  The front mounting brace(it
appears original) is wider than the internal frame measurements-did it sit on
top of the frame and if so, how?  The rear mounting bracket is slightly less
wide than the internal frame dimensions-does it mount down inside the frame?
  2.)  The shaft looks as though it will mount to the front PTO output-are
there any special fittings I will need.  The shaft had been elongated for the
Jeep.
   If anyone has a picture/drawings of the winch, please E-mail me direct
with details-I'll galdly pay postage and developing/photocopying fees as I
currently have no info on this piece of equipment.
   Cheers!   John Cassidy

------------------------------

From: "Elam, Gerry" <ElamGe@iseschpo.sch.ge.com>
Subject: Discovery
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 95 22:59:00 edt

Since the Discovery is relatively new to the U.S. market, we don't have a 
lot of information available on long-term reliability.    I was wondering 
how older (well...relatively speaking to a '95 model! )  Discoveries are 
holding up across the pond?  Is there anyone that can tell which areas will 
provide headaches in the future? What has been the worst about the vehicle? 
 What has been the most  surprising about this SUV?   Any comments would be 
greatly appreciated!  Thanks in advance...
Gerry         (Just another FNG to the scene and  loving every minute of 
it!)
  33  19'06.9" North
112  03'28.0" West
   

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 Jul 1995 13:05:38 +0930
From: tiffanyd@tafe.sa.edu.au (Tiffany Downing)
Subject: RE:Egypt/Sudan Border

Andrew Grafton wrote:

>We are trying to gather information about the status of the
>border between Egypt and Sudan, but are short on leads and
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
>Soon we will be (hopefully) driving thro' Egypt and Sudan 
>to Ethiopia and on down to South Africa.

Andrew I work for the International Student Program for TAFE South Australia 
and so I have some overseas overseas.  The only thing I can think of to give 
you is phone numbers for the Australian Embassies in Egypt (Cairo) and South 
Africa (Pretoria).  The people there speak English so you shouldn't have any 
troubles asking your questions about the sitatution at the borders.  They 
might be able to help as they live in those countries.  If they don't have 
the answers they should at least be able to give you the name of someone who 
does.

The contact numbers are:
Australian Embassy - Cairo              Australian Embassy - Pretoria
Phone:  (20 2) 777 900                  Phone:  (27 12) 325 4315
Fax:    (20 2) 768 220                  Fax:    (27 12) 323 0057

Hope this is of some use!

:-)

Tiffany Downing
Co-ordinator, International Student Program
TAFE South Australia, AUSTRALIA
Phone:  (61 8) 226 3202
Fax:    (61 8) 226 3655
E-Mail  tiffanyd@tafe.sa.edu.au

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Jul 1995 23:49:35 -0500 (CDT)
From: David John Place <umplace@cc.UManitoba.CA>
Subject: Re: Re : BLOWBY BLUES

I thought we were talking about a petrol engine.  I wouldn't let any 
water get into a diesel or you will attempt to compress it and of course 
it doesn't compress well and you blow the head off.  The water in the 
carb solution is strictly for gas engines as far as I know.  I have never 
run a diesel so maybe some one else more experienced here can help.  I 
suspect that there are aditives for diesel that will clean the engine as 
you burn the fuel.  My reference to diesel was that some fellows use 
diesel fuel instead of water in the air intake and it seems to do the 
same cleaning job.  I am sure others will tell you how it has worked for 
them because it is a fairly common way to get rid of carbon.  Dave VE4PN

------------------------------

  END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST 
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