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From: Alan Richer <Alan_Richer.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date: 10 Jul 95 9:40:27 EDT
Subject: Handy Rover Hint - Recovering door handles
Due to a personal restriction, I ended up working on small bits
on my Rover, and discovered a useful tip.
Stop me if you've heard this one...
The rubber-covered door handles on my 109 were really
shabby-looking and cut up, so I went scavenging for a substitute.
Lo and behold, I actually found one...
There is a canned concoction called Plasti-Dip that is sold for
covering tool handles and such here in hardware stores. It's
basically liquid, air-hardening plastic in a toluol base. This stuff
looks just like the original Rover handle plastic!.
What you do to apply it is to cut off all of the old handle plastic
with a razor knife, then clean up the underlying metal
surface with whatever comes to hand (Scotch-Brite pads are
good for this).
Then, the handle is dipped into the Plasti-Dip and removed slowly,
then hung up to harden. 3 or 4 iterations of this are required to build
up enough thickness for long use.
If it strikes your fancy, the Plasti-Dip is also available in colors other
than black, if red or green or blue handles suit you....
Alan
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]From: Brian Neill Tiedemann <s914440@minyos.xx.rmit.EDU.AU> Subject: oops. Date: Mon, 10 Jul 1995 23:49:46 +1000 (EST) Hello again, After all that lovely artwork (cough) in my previous post, I left the most important part out... the question. My (2 door) rangie has a flat, textured rubbery panel forming the front part of the top open glove compartment on the left hand side of the dash. Late four door models have a 'panic handle' here. I would like to get one of these for mine. I believe that they will directly interchange with the plain panel which I currently have. As late models are scarce at the wrecking yards here, could anyone point me to where I may find one, or would anyone who has one like to sell or swap it (handle not late model RR complete!). My vehicle is used off road a lot and passengers often want something to hang on to.... If anyone can give me the part # or price from UK for the handle (to suit RH drive) this would also be appreciated. Couldn't cost too much to ship. BTW where does one obtain the mystic "parts book" with all those pretty exploded views and part #s for every itty bitty thing?? seeya Brian 77 RR (grind) ------------------------------[ <- Message 3 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950711 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU> Date: Mon, 10 Jul 1995 09:01:16 GMT -0600 Subject: Re: Handy Rover Hint - Recovering door handles Alan Richer writes; > There is a canned concoction called Plasti-Dip that is sold for > covering tool handles and such here in hardware stores. It's > basically liquid, air-hardening plastic in a toluol base. This stuff > looks just like the original Rover handle plastic!. Great stuff that Plasti-Dip. When it first came out, it was in short fat cans that had *very* liitle ability for having much dipped in them. They wised up and use taller cans now. It's also available in spray cans. I use it on my electrical switches. I attach 6" lengths of wire to the switches and then seal the switch and connection in Plasti-Dip. Keeps them from corroding, and I figure that if the connection on the end of the wire corrods I can cut it back a bit and attach a new connector. Tom Tom Rowe UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research 608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578 trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck in places even more inaccessible. ------------------------------[ <- Message 4 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950711 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: hlapa@Zeus.signalcorp.com Date: Mon, 10 Jul 95 10:03:03 EST Subject: Fuel Tank Repair Experience? All, Per the list's suggestion, I have identified a local radiator shop that also repairs fuel tanks. **Are there any pitfalls pecular to a genuine Series II tank that may cause the shop difficulty in repairing the slow drip?** This is a LHD 1960 Ser II 109 petrol safari (2.25l) with the (original) sole fuel tank under the bed, just forward of rear frame member. Thanks in advance, Hank ------------------------------[ <- Message 5 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950711 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU> Date: Mon, 10 Jul 1995 09:51:45 GMT -0600 Subject: Re: Fuel Tank Repair Experience? hlapa@Zeus.signalcorp.com wrote: > Per the list's suggestion, I have identified a local radiator shop > that also repairs fuel tanks. **Are there any pitfalls pecular to > a genuine Series II tank that may cause the shop difficulty in > repairing the slow drip?** Hank, The only pitfall to gas tank repair that I've come across is that in Virginia, and maybe other states as well, if the vehicle inspection folks know you've repaired your gas tank they won't pass the car. I'd make sure it's allowed in your neck of the woods. Just because the shop will do it doesn't mean it's ok. As I've discoved from experience. I've welded my own tanks, quite dangerous if you don't know what you're doing (!BOOM!). I have a leaky one now and I'm just going to make a stainless tank and never have to deal with it again. As far as LR tanks go, the underseat tank's skid-plate/support is soldered to the tank (does the 109 have that, I can't remember). This may be a problem if they have to remove it to repair the leak. Depending on their method of repair, the heat required may not go well with the repair. But they should be able to tell you that. Good luck, Tom Tom Rowe UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research 608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578 trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck in places even more inaccessible. ------------------------------[ <- Message 6 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950711 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: DANCSC@aol.com Date: Mon, 10 Jul 1995 12:03:44 -0400 Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Dail... Jim Dolan wrote: <P.S. We're going to begin testing this substance as a shoe waterproofer. Gotta wipe it somewhere, and it doesn't wash off too easy, so who knows...> In regards to the curious secretion from older steering wheels, I personally thought all this time that it was condensation from all the fog up here in the Bay Area, combined with the fact that I have never kept a top on one of my Rovers for more than about 10 minutes. I used to really enjoy coming out bright and early to smear the "Wheel Flen" all over my body, and dance naked under the early morning moonset. I've found that the God of Lucas Electrics is usually appeased by this sort of behaviour. You might try this yourself at home. Another possible use is to call it Rover Hash, and by rubbing your hands consistantly around the steering wheel to gather the oil, then using friction between the palms of your hands, heat this oil up to form a solid lump, this lump can be eaten with toast, and organic apple butter, this completes the Rover food chain, Rover eats oil, Rover eats savings account, You eat Rover oil, You are Rover... and so on, this all comes back to the theory of everything Zen. I have also heard of certain members of the Gen X crowd smoking this sacred oil around campfires, particularly on the Left Coast where this sort of activity is considered to be a cleansing and enlightening ritualistic experience. In light of this new information, I ask that you reconsider the concept of using this Rare and Valuable natural resource as a Boot Oil, and Join us in true Rover Fashion, and remember, as Dick Land Rover said, back in 1967 while on Safari in the Serengeti, "If not for the soil of my steering wheel, I'd not be alive today..." (This statement followed a nearly fatal Lion Mauling which was only thwarted by making an offering of the sacred oil to the Lion King). Cheers! Dan of Rosa 1961 series IIa model 88 Marine Blue, Primer Grey, and Bare Metal doors off, windshield down, grin a mile wide! ------------------------------[ <- Message 7 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950711 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 10 Jul 1995 12:28:24 -0400 From: chrisste@clark.net (Chris Stevens) Subject: Valve Job Advice Please Thanks to everyone who responded to my head gasket blow-by post. Got the head back on yesterday...complete with new gasket...and it runs fine (four cylinders always work better than two), except..... ...Lots of smoke when I rev the motor and clicking sounds coming from within. YIKES. The valves looked pretty toasted, but I cleaned them up (no wire brushes on the high speed drill, thank you) and reinstalled the head. So...I just ordered the whole shooting match--intake and exhaust valves and all the fixings to go along with them. Now, should I take the complete head to the machine shop or can I...more like, should I...do some of this work myself? Chris Stevens 1969 SRIIA 88" SW BCG Corporate Communications Towson, Maryland, USA (410) 583-1722 (410) 583-1935 (FAX) chrisste@Clark.net ------------------------------[ <- Message 8 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950711 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Andrew Grafton <A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk> Subject: Valve Job Advice Please Date: Mon, 10 Jul 95 18:20:23 BST > ...Lots of smoke when I rev the motor and clicking sounds coming from > within. YIKES. The valves looked pretty toasted, but I cleaned them up (no My only experience with clicking sounds + smoke has been on a diesel, but it wasn't valves - it was a couple of broken rings wearing their way through the piston lands, finally sticking up and tapping on the head! Sorry no good hints on head rebuilding, as I haven't done enough to work out the tricks, but it was pretty easy to change the valve guides, seals etc. once we had made the right drifts. Grinding the valves in was a real pain but very satisfying when the paraffin leak test produced nothing after 24 hours! Try it yourself? Very satisfying and passers-by can help with the valve lapping ;-) Valve seat recon. is a bigger job I haven't undertaken yet. Ditto for rocker assembly restoration. All the best, Andy ------------------------------[ <- Message 9 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950711 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Andrew Grafton <A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk> Subject: Re : BLOWBY BLUES Date: Mon, 10 Jul 95 18:23:22 BST > The best way to remove the carbon is the old diesl fuel in the air intake > or cheaper use water from a spray bottle or just a coke bottle of warm > water very slowly at high RPM will do a better job than all the scaping > and brushing you will ever do. Dave VE4PN Would you elaborate, Dave? I'm not sure what you are getting at here and it sounds like a good hint for future reference. It's just that I'd tend to shy away from pouring anything water-like into our diesel inlet manifold. [I know the original question was about a petrol, where presumably you trickle water into the carb. inlet?] Would it do the job on a diesel, too, without wrecking it? All the best, Andy A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk ------------------------------[ <- Message 10 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950711 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 10 Jul 1995 18:46:04 +0059 (BST) From: Charlie Wright <cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk> Subject: Re: Valve Job Advice Please On Mon, 10 Jul 1995, Chris Stevens wrote: > So...I just ordered the whole shooting match--intake and exhaust valves and all the fixings to go along with them. Now, should I take the complete head to the machine shop or can I...more like, should I...do some of this work myself? Well, yes, you can. I guess it's a question of value. Value for money, value of your time, value (and trust) you place in your machine shop's skills (or yours). I did my valves. It was a minor pain. I later had to have the exhaust valve seats re-cut by the shop anyway. It's not difficult. It requires grinding paste and the suction cup. I wouldn't recommend a rotary drill here, but it might be ok. I was told the occilating motion when done by hand was better for grinding them in. I have also been told there is a device that fits your high-speed drill that will reproduce this motion (doing it by hand is the minor pain I spoke of... ) On the other hand, you could let the shop clean it up, check the guides and seals and everthing... and set the whole thing up. If I had had the cash to hand, I probably would have. Good luck, Charlie ------------------------------[ <- Message 11 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950711 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 10 Jul 1995 10:50:05 -0700
From: growl@hsmpk14a-101.Eng.Sun.COM (William L. Grouell)
Subject: RE: misc digest questions
> You need a press to put the stem guides in although I have seen a tool for
> hammering the guides in.
> having them nurled by an automotive shop but that is a stop gap measure at
> best.
> replace the guides with the type that takes umbrella type seals they are
> far superior. Dave VE4PN
1) A length of 5/16th threaded rod, two nuts, flat washers, and a deep socket
will pull them out and pull the new ones in. Use a penetrating lube when
pulling out, use anti-sieze going in. Grease the rod and nuts. (It's OK to
hammer the old ones out.)
2) There are those who believe that a knurled guide is better than a new
one because the little groves trap oil, lubeing the stem. The valve seal
is what keeps too much oil from getting by. I would not want to state
a general rule, there are a lot of variables.
3) A good machine shop can cut the top of the stems to accept TRW teflon
valve seals. This can be done with the head in situ. The machine shop
will have the special cutters, so they cut the guides after installing
them in the head. (or) You can cut new guides for the TRW seals, on a
lathe, before installing them. This is a very good modification.
TRW teflon valve seals to fit LR 2 1/4L:
Intake TRW VP46
Exhaust TRW VP66
R, bg
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]Date: Mon, 10 Jul 1995 12:02:38 -0700 From: matts@caciasl.com (Matt Snyder) Subject: Re: contemplated '88 RR purchase >from all that i have heard, it just seems like RR's are maintenance >nightmares! I guess you might say that. Many areas of the vehicle could have been better designed and better built, particularly engine accessories like pumps and alternators. However, I believe in principal there are some areas, in the drive train especially, that are designed very carefully to not break down no matter what you subject them to (provided they are periodically maintained), and if they do break down, they're supposed to be field fixable. >did you take yours into dealers or independent mechanics when you had >work done? I just moved to San Diego, and I've noticed there are several indepenent mechanics here that I'll try. Formerly, I lived in the mountains near Reno Nevada, and my only choice was the dealer in Reno. The dealer was expensive and occasionally made horrendous mistakes, just like you'd expect from a dealer, but he was primarily a Cadillac dealer, which comes under the Mr. Goodwrench umbrella, so for the most part he was trustworthy. Some of the maintenance expense can be attributed to the rarity of mechanics, who have to travel to the U.K. for training. Some can be attributed to the fact that parts are typically flown from overseas as needed. I understand your reasoning that favors the older Range Rover, and I agree. If one of your choices were a 1990 or newer, it would be harder to decide, because my impression is that overall quality was stepped up considerably thereabouts. However, one caution about an older vehicle whose history is less well known: I believe there's a tendency for parts of the steel frame to rust in places that are hard to spot. That's one area where a newer vehicle that's been garaged might have a considerable advantage. I would definitely have that checked by a mechanic if you can. -Matt ------------------------------[ <- Message 13 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950711 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: DANCSC@aol.com Date: Mon, 10 Jul 1995 16:12:11 -0400 Subject: 1961 88 "Project?"(looky here!!) Hey Rover friends! Dan of Rosa here... I've been doing some thinking, and last week sometime I thought I saw a blip about some chap looking for a series "Project" car, looking for a nice body, didn't have to run, in the 3grand range... I am currently trying to fanagle a D90 out of Land Rovers of North America. I am trying to use my Degree in Advertising and Photography to back me up... Sadly, when Liz,(my first Rover) and I were in L.A. all of my camera equiptment was stolen. In order to swing my end of the deal with the Rover Suits, I'll need some new equiptment, and the only thing I have worth any money would be my Rover... Naturally I would prefer not to sell her, she is my only car, and after busting my rocks for the past several months putting her back together, I'd hate to let her go, but I think this is a calculated risk. Her body is straight as an arrow, she has new brake lines, shoes, and cylinders all around. (heck, I even turned the drums). She's also got a new gearbox, and transfer case complements of Jerry Sprenger of Balboa Island. The gear box is out of a 1965. Also has a brand new clutch, and slave cylinder, new battery, brand new tires, (the 16 inch variety) a hard top, the seats in pretty good shape, (they too are out of a 65) and I have the original ones as well ( in poor shape, but I think they are more comfortable), I also have the hoopset for the soft top, but can't find the top.New cap, rotor, condensor, wires,points all that stuff, plugs, the works. Yes, she drips, I like drips. I am currently experiencing a mild electrical problem with her, she won't hold a charge, could be the generator, could be the voltage regulator, I haven't taken the time to look. Oh, new muffler too. She runs fine, but could easily be much, much better. Trouble is, I studied art in college instead of medicine and can't really afford to treat her to the service she probably requires. Sooooo.... I was thinking, this car may be in better shape than what you may have been looking for, but I was thinking somewhere in the 4500 to 5000 range, and maybe a ride to Rover things until I can get that D90. I can't be sure of the mileage, but I think the odo is around 60k or so. I bought her from fellow who had her parked under a tree for 17 years or so, she originally comes from Florida, I understand it was owned by a college professor originally. I fibbed a little with DMV so registration is about $37, I can pass that savings on to you. (don't rat me out, I'm deeply connected with the Feds) Let me know if you're interested, I'm looking to buy a new camera and some lenses, etcetera with the proceeds, and then I will take whatever is left over to get my Land Rover tattoo, that way if I don't own one right away, I'll at least have a badge on my ass to prove my commitment to the marque. With any luck I will be able to Land a job as a Rover Marketing guy or something, and I can hurry up and get started with my Life as "Roverman". Call anytime, or this mail thing seems to work nicely. Cheers, and all that Jazz! Dan of Rosa (Dan Connor) 1961 series IIa model 88 Marine Blue, Primer Grey, Bare Metal. 1800.862.7520 work 8 to 5 Monday through Friday 707.585.0960 fax 707.546.4277 home ------------------------------[ <- Message 14 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950711 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 10 Jul 95 14:03:58 MST
From: DEBROWN@SRP.GOV
Subject: Series IIa clutch disk - replacement from Chevy?
FROM: David Brown Internet: debrown@srp.gov
Computer Graphics Specialist * Mapping Services & Engr Graphics
PAB219 (602)236-3544 - Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486
SUBJECT: Series IIa clutch disk - replacement from Chevy?
Hello all,
I heard that there was a clutch disk from a Chevy that will work for a
IIa. I took my old disk to the auto parts store, and (after insisting
that they try looking it up by application, and then not finding it)
matched it up, but it's not an exact match. The splines match, and the
size matches, but the offset is about 10cm off. This would make the
clutch splines ride on a slightly different location on the input shaft.
Would this be a problem??? The disk that I "matched" it to was for a
1980 Chevrolet Monza 4 cylinder. To the best of my visualization, I
can't imagine it causing a problem, or interfering with anything. Am I
missing anything? Has anyone done this, or know of anyone that has done
this?
Please let me know... Thanks, Dave (clutchless) Brown.
#=======# Never doubt that a small group of individuals
|__|__|__\___ can change the world... indeed, it's the only
| _| | |_ |} thing that ever has.
"(_)""""""(_)" -Margaret Mead
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]From: "Russell G. Dushin" <dushinrg@pr.cyanamid.com> Subject: Re: Series IIa clutch disk - replacement from Chevy? Date: Mon, 10 Jul 95 18:20:47 EDT > I heard that there was a clutch disk from a Chevy that will work for a > IIa. I took my old disk to the auto parts store, and (after insisting [ truncated by lro-digester (was 12 lines)] > can't imagine it causing a problem, or interfering with anything. Am I > missing anything? Has anyone done this, or know of anyone that has done > this? Why match up when you can buy genuine and new? shipping is cheap, rd/nigel ------------------------------[ <- Message 16 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950711 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 10 Jul 1995 16:57:28 -0700 From: matts@caciasl.com (Matt Snyder) Subject: Re: contemplated '88 RR purchase >What is your view about the years >inwhich quality improvements were made? I gather that in 91 they >substituted some non-Lucas sensors which may have helped? My opinions in that regard are actually just gut feel based on number and character of messages I've seen here about '88 and '89 models, versus later years. In addition, when I first bought my '88 RR, the foreman of the dealer's body shop, who happened to live near me, commented that he felt the engines were considerably more capable in years after '88. So I don't have any hard facts to offer, but maybe others will. -Matt ------------------------------[ <- Message 17 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950711 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 10 Jul 1995 21:47:07 -0500
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: 15 Minutes of fame...
Spent most of Saturday on the set filming the prologues, epilogues and
"teasers" for four segments of "Archaeology". For those who came in late,
the Welsh actor John Rhys-Davies was again in town...and he joined ROAV! He
has also recently purchased another Land Rover...he now owns *five*. His
newest acquisition is a '72 88 (daily driver) he picked up for 700 pounds.
This and all but one of his others lives on his farm on the Isle of Man.
Spent an hour or so swapping stories with him...it takes *forever* (as in
virtually all day) to film just a few minutes. The dunes at First Landing
State Park will stand in for s site near Rome, another near Naples,
something about the Great Barrier Reef and one other location (I forget).
He'll be back in town in about a month to film another four episodes. Look
for them to air beginning this September on The Learning Channel. A crew
from The Discovery Channel was there as well, filming the filming.
Something on 'the making of Archaeology' will appear on Discovery in a month
or so. Cheers.
*----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
| A. P. (Sandy) Grice |
| Rover Owners' Association of Virginia |
| 1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730 |
| E-mail: rover@pinn.net Phone: 804-622-7054 (Day) |
| 804-423-4898 (Evenings) FAX: 804-622-7056 |
*-----------------------------------------------------*
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