[ First Message Last | Table of Contents | <- Digest -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
| msg | Sender | lines | Subject |
| 1 | RICKCRIDER@aol.com | 16 | Re: BLOW-BY BLUES |
| 2 | "Tom Rowe" [TROWE@AE.AGE | 23 | Re: models |
| 3 | "Tom Rowe" [TROWE@AE.AGE | 40 | Re: Winches |
| 4 | maloney@wings.attmail.co | 35 | Re: I'm Worried |
| 5 | "Tom Rowe" [TROWE@AE.AGE | 32 | Re: Alternators & voltmeters |
| 6 | JDolan2109@aol.com | 35 | Fwd Msg: Road Rovers; 4 sale |
| 7 | JDolan2109@aol.com | 30 | Owl's Head & 'wheel goo' |
| 8 | EvanD103@aol.com | 11 | Re: Pitted Swivel Balls |
| 9 | LANDROVER@delphi.com | 35 | Re: Winches |
| 10 | kgb@uic.edu (Ken Berline | 30 | Re: Swivel Housing |
| 11 | tiffanyd@tafe.sa.edu.au | 26 | Photos of Landies in OZ |
| 12 | Brian Neill Tiedemann [s | 62 | gauges.... |
From: RICKCRIDER@aol.com Date: Sun, 9 Jul 1995 06:49:20 -0400 Subject: Re: BLOW-BY BLUES Dave..... Would you please elaborate on the diesel fuel or water decarbonization process. I've never heard of it. Was told at last servicing on the Range Rover that I may want to consider decarbonization at some point in the future. (Currently at 94,000 miles) Wonder what 'method' he had in mind. Thanks. Rick Crider '66 SIII 109" '73 SIIa 88" '88 Range Rover ------------------------------[ <- Message 2 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950710 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU> Date: Sun, 9 Jul 1995 09:09:33 GMT -0600 Subject: Re: models > I have for a while now been considering posting a list of the Land Rover > and Range Rover model kits that have been available over the years. [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)] > Any comments? > Robin Sure, I'd be interested. Tom Tom Rowe UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research 608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578 trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck in places even more inaccessible. ------------------------------[ <- Message 3 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950710 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU> Date: Sun, 9 Jul 1995 09:45:05 GMT -0600 Subject: Re: Winches > I have a neighbor who wants to sell me a Koenig winch that he said was > originally on his '70's SIII. I don't know if it works. He has it on a [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)] > asking $150. I know this has probably been covered in another digest; if so, > point me in the right direction. The Koenig model that fits the LR is no longer made, nor are parts available from Koneig. I called them about 8-10 years ago and the person I spoke with said they were putting together an inventory of all the leftover parts in preperation to selling them off. I asked for a list when they got it together as I was interested in buying them. I never heard back, I assume they sold them to a guy in Florida that they had sold discontinued parts to before. $150.... go for it if you need a winch. If the housing is ok, not cracked, there isn't much else to go wrong. Much of the insides are standard shafts & gears that you can get from any place that sells power transfer components. There are a couple of special gears inside so I guess if you want to be sure you could open the case and examine them. These are good winches, and if I had the oportunity, I'd buy it for 150, but then, I have one so if it were defective I could always consider it a parts winch. Actually, if you decide not to get it, let me know. These winches were also driven from a center PTO via a shaft, and were available as hydraulic driven winches and the one you are considering can be fairly easily converted to hydraulic if you desire. Tom Tom Rowe UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research 608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578 trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck in places even more inaccessible. ------------------------------[ <- Message 4 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950710 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sun, 09 Jul 1995 09:26:44 -0500 From: maloney@wings.attmail.com (maloney) Subject: Re: I'm Worried Alan asked about his engine rebuild: >The bottom line is this: The crank in its new, lubricated >bearings is so stiff that I can't turn it without a short bar >between the flywheel bolts. Before you start to worry - 1. Are #1 & #2 main bearing caps in their right positions (they should be marked)? 2. Are all the bearing caps positioned the right way around (tabs on the same side)? 3. Ditto for the rod bearings & rods & caps. 4. Did you thoroughly clean the bearing shells with a solvent, as well as the the surfaces where they sit? 5. Are you using undersized bearings (they would be marked) with a standard crank? (oops! forgot - you plastigaged them) 6. Did you use Lubriplate or some other pre-lube grease on the bearing shells? If you do this it will hold a crankshaft in place like glue. Just use plenty of clean oil and pre-lube it before starting. 7. Are your pistons tight in their bores if you have the connecting rods bolted on? Did you check the ring clearance in the bores? If you have checked all of the above, then I would start to worry. Good luck! Bill maloney@wings.attmail.com ------------------------------[ <- Message 5 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950710 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU> Date: Sun, 9 Jul 1995 12:15:19 GMT -0600 Subject: Re: Alternators & voltmeters Andy Dingley wrote; > I'd throw away the ammeter (OK then, squirrel it away in the spares skip) > and fit a voltmeter instead. For a vehicle with an alternator, this is [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)] > more about alternator faults than an ammeter, especially over-charging > or battery condition. For the most part I agree with you Andy. If I had to choose, I'd go with the voltmeter. But if you have room, both are useful for diagnostics. With engine running, a volt-meter will register 13-15+ volts all the time (assuming a 12 volt system) but once you overcome the discharge from starting, an ammeter should register right around 0. In other words, the alternator should be keeping up with the electrical system's demand. If, on the other hand, you later add a lot of electrical accessories that over-tax your alternator, i.e. constantly drawing more than the alternator can put out, the ammeter is the best for telling you that. Tom Tom Rowe UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research 608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578 trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck in places even more inaccessible. ------------------------------[ <- Message 6 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950710 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: JDolan2109@aol.com
Date: Sun, 9 Jul 1995 20:39:12 -0400
Subject: Fwd Msg: Road Rovers; 4 sale
Saw this on the Rovernet (cars), thought someone here might be interested.
''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''
''''''''''''''
Subj: -RoverNet- Old Rovers for sale
Date: Sat, Jul 8, 1995 4:00 PM EDT
From: Robert_S._Hosid.Dloslv300@xerox.com
Reply-to: Robert_S._Hosid.Dloslv300@xerox.com
I have two (2) restorable - that means they are not done, 69 Rover TC-2000's.
I live in the Dallas area and would like to find an individual who wants to
restore them.
The price is very cheap, I could get more for just selling the aluminun in
the
bodies but I would like to see them stay alive and on the road.
If you live a reasonable distance from Dallas, and have any interest in these
cars, give me a yell with a phone number and I will be glad to show them to
you.
Bob Hosid
Long time Rover owner.
'''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''
keep 'em rolling,
Jim '60 P5 MkI 4 spd/OD (628000165) <-- always looking for parts, new/used
'68 P6 TC (partz)
'68 P6 SC Auto <-- need flex plate
'68 P6 TC
'60,'61, '64, '64, '68, '71 LR's, 88"
Collect the whole set? Someone probably has a name for this affliction...
------------------------------
[ <- Message 7 -> end
| Table of Contents
| <- Digest 950710 ->
Archive Index
| <-
Browser ->
]From: JDolan2109@aol.com Date: Sun, 9 Jul 1995 20:39:24 -0400 Subject: Owl's Head & 'wheel goo' Had a wonderful time at Owl's Head. Trevor and wife Mary came over the night before from Grimsley and we convoyed over via back roads through Maine and NH. Trevor has devised a quite remarkable, (well, very practical, at least!) map box/contraption that scrolls the route as you proceed. We went via unnumbered/unnamed/unpaved roads and if we were lost, I never knew it! Old roads!!! The folks at East Coast Rovers (Mike Smith) certainly worked hard to make it a successful event. And Myles Murphy did more than he would probably acknowledge, too! I missed most of the off road day, as I found a P5 that I was able to salvage parts from, but what I saw was fun!!. So, anyway it was at the campground that I think I began finalising my (latest) theory: Is it possible that the substance that exudes from the steering wheel on those damp mornings could actually be what I'm beginning to call "dead lustre"? I find it a strong coincidence that the paint fades and goes flat at just about the same time that this substance begins to appear. Perhaps there is some sort of electro-osmolytical dynamic going here with the aluminum and paint shine via the positive ground of the earlier series vehicles? Just thought I'd ask. See 'ya on the old road... Jim '61 88" SW / OD, 1 Bbl weber & 16's (econobox?) LR....quite possibly one of the best machines yet devised! P.S. We're going to begin testing this substance as a shoe waterproofer. Gotta wipe it somewhere, and it doesn't wash off too easy, so who knows... ------------------------------[ <- Message 8 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950710 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: EvanD103@aol.com Date: Sun, 9 Jul 1995 23:17:12 -0400 Subject: Re: Pitted Swivel Balls My swivel balls had several small, albeit fairly deep, pits. I cleaned out the rust, filled the pits with epoxy (trade name "JB Weld"), and sanded them smooth. So far so good. The seals seem to appreciate having a smooth surface to move over! Give it a try. It's lots cheaper than new parts if the pitting isn't too severe. ------------------------------[ <- Message 9 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950710 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: LANDROVER@delphi.com
Date: Sun, 09 Jul 1995 23:32:19 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Winches
> I have a neighbor who wants to sell me a Koenig winch that he said was
> originally on his '70's SIII. I don't know if it works. He has it on a
> "woods buggy" and claims it works fine.
OK.. if it's on a "woods buggy" and the vehicle runs, you should be able to
see if it works..
> It looks like this would be driven from the front PTO? Can you still
get parts? Are they good quality. He's asking $150.
The usual setup is to drive the winch from the front of the crankshaft. To
mount the Koenig, you have to remove the starter dog nut from the crankshaft
and install a special nut that secures the Koenig drive shaft. There also
is a version that is driven from the PTO at the rear of the transfer case. If
this "woods buggy" is not a Land Rover then make sure that your neighbor has
all the correct mounting pieces. I don't think that parts are being
manufactured for this winch anymore, although you can probably match up
bearings at a bearing supply house if need be. $150 is an excellant price if
the winch works. THe Koenig was probably one of the best winches made for
the Land Rover - the only drawback being that your engine has to be running
for the winch to work.
Cheers
Michael Loiodice E-MAIL landrover@delphi.com
166 W.Fulton St. VOICE (518) 773-2697
Gloversville
NY, 12078 1965 Ser IIa 88 Petrol (On the Road!)
7 1972 Ser III 88 Petrol ("Fern")
#:-}> 1971 Ser IIa 88 Petrol (Parts is Parts)
------------------------------
[ <- Message 10 -> end
| Table of Contents
| <- Digest 950710 ->
Archive Index
| <-
Browser ->
]Date: Sat, 10 Jul 1993 00:14:15 -0500 From: kgb@uic.edu (Ken Berliner) Subject: Re: Swivel Housing As for swivel housing pitting, yes. yes. yes... I had that problem too. However I have good news for you which will save you hundreds of <insert whatever currency you guys use>. For pitted swivel housings, take a steel brush and clean out the rust. Then take epoxy and fill the holes. When dry, take a high speed fine sander and smooth out the ball the best you can. Replace your seals and fill with oil. When you replace the seals, be sure to check the integrity of the CV joint. Sure the fixed housing might leak oil slowly, but that's the best you can do with british machinery. I think the new housings probably leak oil too. You're supposed to replace the oil in the swivel housings every so often anyway. Hope this helps. kgb 89 RR ********************************************************* Reachable at E-mail: kgb@uic.edu WWW: http://www.uic.edu/~kgb/ <- Whoa! I'm on the web ********************************************************* ------------------------------[ <- Message 11 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950710 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 10 Jul 1995 15:03:13 +0930 From: tiffanyd@tafe.sa.edu.au (Tiffany Downing) Subject: Photos of Landies in OZ Someone (lloyd@c.monash.edu.au) was asking about pictures of Landies in OZ for the WWW. What sort of photographs do you want. My husband Chris and I belong to the Land Rover Register of SA. Chris is a photographer and he always takes photos at every club trip we go to, as well as any private trip we take. Our regular club trips include Blinmin (Flinders Ranges), Morgan (River Murray), Robe (South East Coast), Geranium and Peake (nowhere in particular but very sandy). We have also been along the Great Ocean Road (Victoria), Ngarkat (border of SA and VIC), Big Desert and Little Desert (Victoria), Burra Creek Gorge (SA). A friend of ours has been through Alice Springs up to the Northern Territory and back and has some great photos. Is there anything in particular you are looking for? Tiffany Downing (tiffanyd@tafe.sa.edu.au) Owner of a well loved Series IIA, Long wheel base, Ex-Army, Soft-top, (anything else you want to know) Land Rover. Hopefully upgrading to a 110 soon!!!!! YEAH!! ------------------------------[ <- Message 12 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950710 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Brian Neill Tiedemann <s914440@minyos.xx.rmit.EDU.AU>
Subject: gauges....
Date: Mon, 10 Jul 1995 17:20:31 +1000 (EST)
OK, told you voodoo was Joe's primary electrical system of laws, but my
ramblings of yesterday are true of at least RR gauges (well some of them).
My 77 had this type of bi-metal movement used for its coolant temp, oil
temp, fuel, and oil pressure gauges, but the voltmeter and clock ( ;) )
are not the same (mine has no ammeter). I have pulled apart and repainted
and fiddled with all, so I am sure. (now all are situated across dash
centre, as I have a Brian adapted Hillman GT -I think- tach with modified
needle + surrounds in the LHS of binnacle- where fuel + temp used to be).
Note also that the replacement temp and fuel gauges that I have used are
a Smiths item from a Triumph (2500pi I think). These are compatible and
the fascia matches a RR's, but the black bezel (ring) around the outside
is different. I used some from dead RR gauges to make a perfect match.
See the crude ascii x-sections below.
Triumph gauge face seen from side: |\_______/|
^glass
RR (early) gauge face from same : /\_______/\
^bezel
Tach Speedo
My dash now looks like: / /
glove comp _________
/ =// \<#>/ \\
_________________________________________:| Q |#| Q |:_____
/ "" \___________/ "" """"""" "" \\\_/_#_\_/// "" \
| (*) 0 0 0 0 0 (*) ---------- [] |<rear wipe/wash
------------------------------------------------#------------
| [|||] o o [|||] 0 o __ {o} __ [####] |
\____________________________________/\____/ \___/ \______/
^A/C unit in dash \ \ / / ^steering ^stereo
| | .--'-. |O|<cig ltr column
heater > | | |--'-| | |
controls | | ______ |o|<rear defog
| | [______] | |
\------------/
//__________\\
note we use RH drive here in Oz.
The "0" s in the centre top section are the gauges,
left to right: Clock, Fuel, Water temp, Oil temp, Oil press.
lower and right: Voltmeter.
(*) : eyeball vent
[|||] : A/C vent
o : switch (A/C temp, A/C fan, hazard flash, rear defog)
____
[____]: crap text about when to use diff lock, low range etc.
Took a bit of mucking about to get the dash lighting for tach to match
rest in colour/brightness, but worthwhile. Several dealers/service people
have asked when the tach came out as std/option :}
Now for some nice looking and strong wooden inserts to replace the
plasticky junk between the door handles......
seeya
Brian
77 RR (whine)
------------------------------
[ <- Message 13 -> end
| Table of Contents
| <- Digest 950710 ->
Archive Index
| <-
Browser ->
]END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST Input: messages 11 lines 532 [forwarded 36 whitespace 101] Output: lines 472 [content 284 forwarded 26 (cut 10) whitespace 98]
| Back | Forward | |
|---|---|---|
Photos & text Copyright 1990-2011 Bill Caloccia, All rights reserved. Digest Messages Copyright 1990-2011 by the original poster or/and Bill Caloccia, All rights reserved.
| ||