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From: Brian Neill Tiedemann <s914440@minyos.xx.rmit.EDU.AU>
Subject: fuel gauge polarity..
Date: Sat, 8 Jul 1995 20:09:57 +1000 (EST)

Hi all,
I've been watching silently for a while now, but the 'current' thread on 
alternators has caught my eye. Although I own a RR, which has an 
alternator anyway, I have been thinking about the 'whys' which go along 
with altering the polarity of various parts of a LR electrical (voodoo 
based) system.
Here goes:
*The current meter requires its polarity to be switched, as its direction 
of deflection depends upon the direction of current flow through it.

*The fuel gauge does not require a change as it is not sensitive to 
current direction, only to the amount of current flowing. This is because 
the gauge operates on the principal of a bi-metallic strip. This is a 
thingy made of two different metals bonded together in such a way that it 
deforms (bends) by a fairly predictable amount when heated. Now to make 
an electric gauge from this, Joe wraps some insulated resistive wire 
around the bi-metal strip, anchors the strip at one end, and attatches 
the other end to some tricky linkages then to a needle. How this works is 
that the tank sender is a varying resistance dependent on fuel level, and 
the resistive part of the gauge (which is in effect a heater element) has 
a fairly constant resistance, so the current flow in the circuit 
(and hence heat generated in gauge)is then dependent only upon the fuel 
level sender's resistance (assuming that the voltage applied by the little
regulator thingy or battery is constant at some value or other). Now the heat 
generated by the element wrapped around the bi-metal strip is the same 
regardless of the direction of current flow, so the gauge should (if you 
stick your pin in the LR doll in just the right place) deflect just the same 
direction and amount as before if you switch to negative earth.
that's it... phew!!

bfn
Brian
77RR (drip crunch)

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 8 Jul 1995 13:55:45 +0059 (BST)
From: Charlie Wright <cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: fuel gauge polarity..

Brian, thanks for the thoughts, but I'll re-post a few details that will 
confuse further...

On Sat, 8 Jul 1995, Brian Neill Tiedemann wrote:

> Here goes:

> *The current meter requires its polarity to be switched, as its direction 
> of deflection depends upon the direction of current flow through it.
> (needle will move opposite way for opposite polarity applied)

Sure, I agree entirely. I didn't switch the connections when I changed 
polarity. And: It went the _same_ way it had before... I dont' get it. 
I've checked for earth/ground faults and nothing. The alternator isn't 
absorbing current.  Weird.

> *The fuel gauge does not require a change as it is not sensitive to 
> current direction, only to the amount of current flowing. This is because 
> the gauge operates on the principal of a bi-metallic strip. This is a 

I doubt this, because mine (not using a regulated voltage box) jumps 
around like a mad thing, always centering on the correct reading. It 
jumps electrically - not by shaking (ie, when the car is at rest and not 
runnning), and a bi-metalic strip doesn't respond with such a quick 
flicker...

I further doubt this because the fuel guage WAS affected by polarity.  I 
CHANGED the connections when I changed to negative earth, and the guage 
dropped down to the bottom stop!  Switching it back, it read fine.

I had assumed it was a moving coil/fixed coil device (like an electric 
motor) and would run the same way with both polarities, but it doesn't 
seem to.

I've decided to stop asking questions. It works.

Charlie

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date:          Sat, 8 Jul 1995 09:16:43 GMT -0600
Subject:       Re: fuel gauge polarity..

>From Charlie Wright's posting
 
> > *The fuel gauge does not require a change as it is not sensitive to 
> > current direction, only to the amount of current flowing. This is because 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)]
> runnning), and a bi-metalic strip doesn't respond with such a quick 
> flicker...
Charlie,
Based on your description of the gauge's motion and the age of your vehicle, 
I'd venture you have a moving iron gauge. As described in Haynes 
electrical manual #1005 these 
"Depend upon the relative magnetic pull of two coils upon a small pivioted 
armature to which the dial pointer is attached."

Power flows from supply through the control coil in the guage, and, if the 
tank is empty, through the sending unit to ground. If full, because of high 
resistance in the sending unit, it flows through the deflecting coil in the 
gauge and this pulls the needle to the full mark.

Haynes goes on to say;
"There are two disadvantages to this instrument system:
(a) the system is undamped and the pointer moves quickly to follow petrol 
waves and disturbances
(b) the difficulty of measuring tank content when nearly empty-just when 
accuracy is sometimes most needed."
"The instrument has advantages of cheapness and the readings are independent 
of supply voltage"
My two cents worth.
Tom

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date:          Sat, 8 Jul 1995 09:24:09 GMT -0600
Subject:       Gauges

Oh, I almost forgot.
You can tell the bi-metallic gauges because they will have voltage 
stabilizer. Faulty stabilisers will give eratic gauge readings. You can test 
them by attaching a good voltmeter to the I terminal and to earth. The meter 
should pulse with a mean voltage of whatever the stabilised output is 
supposed to be. Usually 10 volts on a twelve volt system.
Ok, four cents worth.
Tom

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 8 Jul 1995 09:30:16 -0700
From: Roger Sinasohn <sinasohn@crl.com>
Subject: Re: The guy with the foward control etc.

> the us?     i know many rover fanatics in the K. C.  area, including   JIM
>  merriam.    any one know him??   or  Bill bruce?     if so  write back!

I met Jim & Robyn Merriam in '91 at the National Rally in Colorado.  Real nice 
folks.  If you see him, tell him I said hi.  (I've got a white 109" with the 
plates INDY 1.)

---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Uncle Roger                         "There is pleasure pure in being mad
sinasohn@crl.com                                that none but madmen know."
Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
San Francisco, California

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 8 Jul 1995 09:58:53 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jim Russell <jrussell@netcom.com>
Subject: More On Nylock Nuts...

Well, still have to find my A&P manuals but I checked and, yes, elastic 
stop nuts can be reused on aricrat indefinately as long as they are not 
loose.  That is, if you can turn them with your fingers, they are junk.

One thing to keep in mind with nylock fasteners is that to tourqe them 
properly you have to assemble them first and take a torque reading of how 
much it takes to turn the nut.  This is then added to the specified 
torque reading.  So, if it takes, say, 8 ft lb to just turn the nut and 
the specified torque is 30 ft lb you would want to torque the fastener to 
38 ft lb.

Also, given that on Land-Rovers many elastic stop nuts are removed and
then replaced on rusty parts, there is a distinct possibility that the
locking device will be damaged and while it might seem okay on the rusty
portion by the time it gets down to where it is clean it may no longer be
safe to reuse.  But the same would likely happen to a new nut put on a
rusty bolt. 

Using a chemical locking method such as Locktite IN PLACE OF a mechanical 
locking device isn't usually a good idea since once it is upset even 
slightly it will have lost much of its effectiveness.  So, if you apply 
Locktite, let it set, and at some later time tighten the nut, you will 
have most likely lost most of its holding power.  As an aside, here again 
you should make an adjustment to the dry torque figure when securing the 
fastener since you have effectively added lubrication.

The use of elastic stop nuts on moving parts is not approved for aircraft. 
While I too have aftermarket tie rod ends with nylock nuts, I question
whether they are appropriate in this application since I think this might 
qualify as a moving part.  A castled nut and cotter pin seems a much 
better and safer method of securing the nut.

                  Jim Russell   ====   jrussell@netcom.com
                         (Seattle -- San Francisco)            

------------------------------

Subject: models
From: rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (Robin Craig)
Date: Sat, 08 Jul 95 09:09:10 -0500

I have for a while now been considering posting a list of the Land Rover 
and Range Rover model kits that have been available over the years.

If enough people think this would be a good idea I"ll do it and get Dixon 
to post it on the Faq.

Any comments?

Robin

--
Robin Craig, rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Ottawa, Ont. |  Ottawa Valley Land Rovers

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 08 Jul 1995 11:29:01 +0100
From: cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine)
Subject: Re: models

 Robin Craig <rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca> writes:

>I have for a while now been considering posting a list of the Land Rover 
>and Range Rover model kits that have been available over the years.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
>to post it on the Faq.
>Any comments?

 That would be great, and a good service to the Land Rover community!
 A FAQ might include past and present LR models, model kits, comments
 on model scales and quality, current sources, prices and availability,
 paint colors and paint schemes, etc.

 OK Robin, you're the "ModelMeister", there's no time to waste....

 PS- While you're at it, maybe you can also list any Unimog models
 you might find (?).

 Michael Carradine   Carradine Studios                          cs@crl.com
 Architect           Architecture Development Planning    Pgr 510-945-5000
 NCARB RIBA          PO Box 99, Orinda, CA 94563 USA   Ph/Fax 510-988-0900

 Mercedes-Benz Unimog 4x4 WWW page at:  http://www.crl.com/~cs/unimog.html

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 8 Jul 1995 19:37:12 +0100
From: Huw@citadel.powernet.co.uk (Huw Jones)
Subject: Swivel Housing

 Can anyone tell me if it is worth removing the pitting on the chrome swivel
balls
 with Emery paper (wet & dry) before I replace the leaking oil seals or
should I just
 pay the =A3200 it will cost to get new ones on my 1975 SIII Station Wagon.

Huw Jones
Buckinghamshire
UK

------------------------------

Subject: Re: books about Africa
From: paul@frcs.alt.za (Paul Nash)
Date: Sat, 08 Jul 1995 13:37:27 +1000

> Here's the info on the overlanding books that
> I memtioned earlier today.

In addition, I'd _strongly_ recommend Lonely Planet's "Africa on a
Shoestring".  If you only take one book, take this (it's more useful
than a workshop manual, even!).

I don't know much about Northern Africa, but if you want hints about
places to go in the Southern end (Malawi, Zambia, Botswana, Zimbabwe,
Namibia, RSA) send me some mail & I'll bore you witless with long
lists :-)

For what it's worth, sII parts are easy to get (lots of broken LR's
on the side of the roads), sIII available, 110 and the like probably
quite difficult outside major cities.

	paul
--
   Paul Nash <paul@frcs.alt.za>       turbo-nerd & all-round nice guy
       14/114 Blamey Cres, Campbell, Canberra ACT 2601, AUSTRALIA

------------------------------

From: JCassidyiv@aol.com
Date: Sat, 8 Jul 1995 15:18:16 -0400
Subject: Winches

I have a neighbor who wants to sell me a Koenig winch that he said was
originally on his '70's SIII.  I don't know if it works.  He has it on a
"woods buggy" and claims it works fine.  It looks like this would be driven
from the front PTO?  Can you still get parts?  Are they good quality.  He's
asking $150.  I know this has probably been covered in another digest; if so,
point me in the right direction.
        Cheers!  John

------------------------------

From: rmodica@east.pima.edu
Date: Sat, 08 Jul 1995 13:17:24 MST
Subject: Cooling Down a LR

Some thoughts on how to keep a Land Rover a bit more comfortable in the Arizona
heat (or anywhere else).  Speaking from 20 years of experience living in Tucson
where the summer temperatures commonly hit 110 F day afetr day there is NO way
to keep from roasting in a Land Rover, but a few things seem to help.
	1)  The best heat reduction technique I've ever found is to coat the
top of the tropical roof with a white reflective house roof coating.  This
paint-like stuff does a super job of cooling down the sheet metal top.  You can
place your hand on the coated surface when its 110F and not even feel the heat. 
Here in Tucson the product is sold by a local paint manufacturer as "KoolKoat"
but the same stuff is also made by Sinclair Paint and Dupont.  It really works
and the white color pretty much matches the original top.
	2)  Try insulating the under seat tool box.  A LOT of heat comes up
through the floor from the exhaust system.  I used styrofoam scraps glued to
the inside of the box.  That cost some space but really cooled down my rear end
and lower legs.
	3)  Insulate the footwells, especially the area adjacent to the gas
pedal.  I used a combination of thick plush carpet (that's all through my
109) and closed cell foam.  Keeps the right foot cool(don't know about LROs in
the UK, but I doubt you get your left foot roasted in the summer anyway).
	4)  Insulate the floorboards.  Once again a LOT of heat comes up
through the bottom. Carpeting and styrofoam work well.
	5)  I made a sheet metal shield for exhaust system where it passes
under the drivers area.  Simply curved a piece about 24" wide and riveted a
couple of braces to attach to the tail pipe. Seems to help some and doesn't get
in the way.
	6)  As discussed in recent threads - glue closed cell foam to the
underside of the roof.  My next project when I put in a new headliner.  Glueing
foam to the underside of the hood (bonnet) should also help reduce heat coming
into the vehicle.

	James Howard. --Try calling Rovers West (602)748-8115 for a used
tropical roof and roof vents.  I thought I saw a t-roof lying about their yard.

Any LROs in Arizona that want to start a list of LROs let me know.  So far I've
gleaned about 8 from reading the Digest.  Should we form a group? or a pride?
or a gaggle? or a society?  

Rob Modica 	51 SI80"	60 109" Safari	94 Disco 5spd
Tucson AZ

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 08 Jul 95 11:19:47
From: Andy Dingley <dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Alternators & voltmeters

> I can see it's off scale, but the ammeter looks tougher than the wires
> running to it.The Lucas 16ACR only puts out 35 Amps.  I'd like a bigger
> ammeter, 

I'd throw away the ammeter (OK then, squirrel it away in the spares skip)
and fit a voltmeter instead. For a vehicle with an alternator, this is 
much more useful. If everything works, there is little need for either 
- the regulators should handle everything, and so a meter is mainly a 
fault detecting and diagnostic device. A voltmeter tells you much 
more about alternator faults than an ammeter, especially over-charging
or battery condition.

Dynamos don't charge at slow speeds, so the main function of an ammeter 
is to inform you as the dynamoe cuts in & out. An alternator will be 
charging at anything over a slow idle.

-- 
Andy Dingley                                      dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk                                          

     Speed kills, but Bull Bars enable you to kill at lower speeds

------------------------------

From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date:  8 Jul 95 20:25:22 EDT
Subject: I'm worried.....

I think I have a problem in my engine rebuild.

I put the crank back in, after waiting a week for 
Atlantic British to replace a defective oil seal...twits!

The bottom line is this: The crank in its new, lubricated
bearings is so stiff that I can't turn it without a short bar
between the flywheel bolts.

All of the bearings passed Plastigage muster. I'm
just worred that something's cocked .00000001 in
there somewhere and I can't find it....

Please tell me I'm worrying for nothing and that it's OK...

    alan

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 08 Jul 1995 18:21:55 +0100
From: cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine)
Subject: Re: Swivel Housing Oil Seals revisited

 Huw Jones <Huw@citadel.powernet.co.uk> writes:

>Can anyone tell me if it is worth removing the pitting on the chrome
 swivel balls with Emery paper (wet & dry) before I replace the leaking
 oil seals or should I just pay the =A3200 it will cost to get new ones
 on my 1975 SIII Station Wagon.

 Depends on how bad they're pitted and where.  My swivel balls had
 shallow surface pitting on the top of the balls only.  This was caused
 by dirt and mud buildup on the top, and the general lack of lubrication
 to the top surfaces of the balls while in service.  I chose to clean
 them up and fit on new seals with leather gaiters.  My reasoning was
 that the new seals will reasonably seal the bottom of the balls to keep
 the oil from flowing out.  During operation of the vehicle oil will
 splash to the top of the ball and I should loose some to the outside
 of the seal.  However, the amount would be minimal and to some extent
 desireable since I want to keep the outside of the ball lubricated to
 prevent dirt buildup and to prevent further pitting.  To aid in the
 preventon of direct dirt contact with the balls, I fitted gaiters
 which also need to be kept lubricated.  Some people argue that gaiters
 actually trap moisture and aid pitting, I disagree.  Normal servicing
 or additional topping up of the swivel balls with oil before and after
 heavy off-highway use should take care of any lost oil.

 If your swivel balls are pitted at the bottom, I'd suggest just
 replacing them with new units and embarking on a maintenance program
 to prevent further pitting.  Naturally you'll want to replace the
 bearing races, brake shoes, wheel cylinders, etc. etc. while you're
 at it.   *8)

 Michael Carradine   Carradine Studios                          cs@crl.com
 Architect           Architecture Development Planning    Pgr 510-945-5000
 NCARB RIBA          PO Box 99, Orinda, CA 94563 USA   Ph/Fax 510-988-0900

 Mercedes-Benz Unimog 4x4 WWW page at:  http://www.crl.com/~cs/unimog.html

------------------------------

Subject: Re: Unsafe Jeeps 
Date: Sat, 08 Jul 1995 19:39:55 -0700
From: Benjamin Allan Smith <bens@archimedes.vislab.navy.mil>

> Michael Carradine wrote:
> > much like the Jeeps are (the last also having been destroyed) with
> > roll-over accidents having killed 500 or so persons to date.

Granville Poole wrote:
> I haven't heard this about Hummers and don't know why it would be any
> different for the military ones than for the civilian ones.  With as low a
> profile as the Hummer has, its nearly 7'2" overall width, and its wide-based
> A-arm independent suspension, I can see no reason to expect roll-over 
> problems.

	While I was working at Caltech last year one of my coworkers was
a sergeant in the California National Guard.  One day we were talking and
he said that he had just seen a report on the Hummer and that report
mentions the the rollover rate for the Hummers in the military was the same
as the M-151.  The Hummers are more stable than the M-151, but the soldiers
think that the Hummer is unrollable, so they do supid things and roll them.
The report also mentions that some soldier managed to roll a Hummer starting
from a stop on a dry, flat segment of pavement (turning at a stop light I
believe).  I never saw a copy of the report, so take this information as you
will.

Ben

----------------
-Benjamin Smith
 Science Applications International Corporation
 Naval Air Warfare Center, Weapons Division, China Lake
 bens@vislab.navy.mil
 1972 Land Rover Series III 88

------------------------------

From: CpaulP@aol.com
Date: Sun, 9 Jul 1995 00:46:53 -0400
Subject: Re: models

I think it is a great idea!

------------------------------

From: JDPUTNAM@aol.com
Date: Sun, 9 Jul 1995 01:31:13 -0400
Subject: Yakima Number

I found the number to Yakima 1(707)826-8000.  The part number for the drip
rail spacer that seems the keep the rack off the roof is 8890007.

Good Luck
John Putnam
70 SIIa

------------------------------

  END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST 
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