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Date: 03 Jul 95 03:44:10 EDT
From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com>
Subject: Replies... misc.

RE: SIIA Petrol to Diesel fantasies

> diesel unit other than the LR 2.25 diesel into a SIIA without major
> modifications?  (Iveco 2.5l? GM? Nissan? LR TDi's?)  The ideal would be

A feasible conversion is the (italian) VM 4-cyl. turbodiesel that was used
in earlier models RR diesels in Europe. French Peugeot diesel also fits
(though the exhaust is on the 'wrong side'). GM, Nissan, even TDi are way
to big for a IIA engine bay without major modifications. Perkins also fits,
but beware of the (externally indistinguishable) marine or agricultural
lumps, look for a modern high-revving automotive machine. Perkins also
requires HD front springs, those things are *heavy*. The Iveco seems to
stand a bit to high to me (bonnet wouldn't close), it might have to be
lowered via the engine mounts, having the oil pan protuding dangerously
low (offroad damage likely). Mercedes - not (for various reasons).
...ok, if you're willing to cut and weld and relocate and adapt etc. then
almost anything fits , I've limited the scope to engines that will more or
less 'drop in'.

> P.S. This isn't too tayloresque is it?

Hardly - practice some more.

----------------------------------------------------

RE: Michelin 7.50R16 XZY

> 1. How many miles/km's can I expect to get on a set

* YMMV *  But generally all Michelins are very long-lasting. This particular
one is made of an extremely hard compound and has (I think) 9 PR. The XZY
usually has to be discarded not because of tread wear, but because of the
sidewalls cracking due to old age. On tarmac, on a LR, mileages of 200,000 km
are not uncommon.

> 2. How does these tyres affect fuel consumption

Improves noticeably

> 3. What does the thread pattern look like

A big, very high Z-type pattern with a rugged track-edge

 =  / /  / /  / /  / /  =
 =  \ \  \ \  \ \  \ \  =
 =  / /  / /  / /  / /  =
 =  \ \  \ \  \ \  \ \  =
 =  / /  / /  / /  / /  =
 =  \ \  \ \  \ \  \ \  =
 =  / /  / /  / /  / /  =

> 4. How do they perform on:
>   a: Rocks  <     good, but bumpy and uncomfortable
>   b: Sand   <     Not good
>   c: Mud    <     Very good
>   d: Tar (Noise ???)  <  Very hard ride, a bit noisy

> Is it worth paying R900 (US$250)/tyre as opposed to R400
> (US$120)/tyre for the normal set.

If you habitually drive long distances on tarmac and don't need ride
comfort they'll probably pay off.  These are *truck* tyres.

---------------------------------------

RE: Billing

> I will be there at the end of my England/Scotland holiday and need to
> know how much wine we need. Please answer in the next three or four days
> because I start on thursday evening.

...to get wine from *Scotland* ??

--------------------------------------------------------

RE: Urgent: Help with Clutch.

Peter Aslan was unhappy with his clutch:

> ... and pull the gearbox back 5 inches to get at, and remove the
> clutch. Anyone tried this ?? Anything to watch out for ??

Well possible to do it this way. Yes, we tried it (successfully). And
watch out nothing big falls on your head or in your face.

> I'm concerned that once I unbolt the transmission, the engine will tip
> forwards or backwards, ts only got two mounts. ... <snip> ...

It will tip backwards... but if the engine mounts are in good shape
they'll still support the engine weight (i.e. it won't drop on the driveway),
and if we're talking about a 'Series' vehicle there should be a chassis
crossmember *just about* underneath the rim of the flywheel housing.
Wedge a block of wood between housing and crossmember before letting things
come undone, and the engine should stay in place - additionally support it
with a hydraulic jack under the engine (but don't do it like the jerk I
know who punched a hole into his oil pan)

> ...  And do I need to  unbolt
> the gearbox mounts to pull it back ??

Why, sure... and the propshafts have to come out as well. And disconnect
the hand brake linkage. And this little gearbox-to-chassis rod (in case
it isn't already missing...)  Oh yes, and I almost forgot: If you have an
Overdrive installed you might encounter additional problems moving the
thing out of the way...

Enjoy!

Stefan
<Stefan R. Jacob, 100043.2400@CompuServe.com>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Jul 1995 09:38:00 +0100 (BST)
From: Peter Aslan <paslan@uk.mdis.com>
Subject: Re: Urgent Help with Clutch, part 1.

The story as it unfolds..

You may recall the Clutch Slip, predominately when the engine was hot, 
the limited travel of the clutch pedle. the preliminart Diagnosis, that 
one or more springs had broken, preventing the clutch from seperating 
completely, and reducing the presure on the friction plate causing slip.

the Plan: Try seperating the Engine and Gbox without removing the Gbox 
completely, jut rolling it back on a trolly jack under the thing. The 
manual states you can remove the clutch by seperating the Engine and Gbox 
by 5 inches.

So, to the plot: Remove as follows:
1. Front floor pannels. 
2. Gbox tunnel.
3. Flywheel cover.

Now to support the Engine at the rear, to allow the Gbox to be removed.
Jackup Engine, problem here in that where do you put the jack, in the end I 
used a large piece of wood under the sump, when lifting the whole LR moved 
upwards, no decernable increase in the gap between the flywheel 
housing and crossmember, cant get my recommended 1 inch piece of 
wood between. So I use a smaller wedged piece of wood instead.
Note, when you start to jackup the Gbox, this gap opens up fine.

Next the Prop Shafts, Front at the Gbox end, rear at the diff end, (easier 
to get to). Are these things supposed to go back Exactly as they were 
removed ??

Undo the Handbrake arm from the rod out of the drum, disconnect the 
Earthing Strap to the Chassis. Remove the Bolts from the Gbox mounts.
Jack up the Gearbox, comes up fine, problem in supporting it though, as 
the thing is such a weard shape and where is the balance point ?? Bits o 
wood and stuff later, and I'm undoing the Bell housing from the Flywheel 
cover, some nuts come off, some remove the studs. In retrospect, the next 
part would have been easier if all the studs had some out.

With the Engine/Gbox disconnected, I 'jiggled' the Gbox back about an 
inch, then through judicial use of a crowbar, in the true tradition of 
the LandRover, managed to part the two items by about 4-5 Inches. the 
manual says 5 Inches is enough, Bollocks.

Then a lot of struggling underneath to no avail, try a jack between Gbox 
and crossmember, something sticking, but what ? Cant see anything under here.

Later, Sainaty set in and I removed the Seat Base, the thing I was trying 
to avoid. The Gbox could not move back because it was fouling the 
Handbreak bracket on the Left, and the Exaust Pipe on the Right. Anyhow, 
by jacking up the thing and Jiggling it somemore, I managed to 
achieve seperation, enough to get at the bolts securing the clutch to 
flywheel, blody locking washers though, and with the gbox there, verry 
tight.

The friction plate fell out, and looks fine, loads-o-meat. Havent looked 
at the Clutch machenism yet, but am now suspicious of the release stuff.

Stay posted for art 2.

Regards, 

  Peter Aslan (aka Captain Norton).           Louden Quill Award.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
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  Boundary Way
  Hemel Hempstead                             Voice: 01442 273324
  Hertfordshire HP2 7HU                       Fax:   01442 244896
  ENGLAND                                     Mail:  paslan@uk.mdis.com 
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: "Steve Methley" <sgm@hplb.hpl.hp.com>
Date: Mon, 3 Jul 1995 10:28:10 +0100
Subject: Re: Rangie fuel pumps

Andy Dingley <dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk> asks:

>What's a good pump for a Rangie ? Is a Solid State big enough, or
>should I go for a Silver Top ?

The standard pump is excellent.  Clean the filter and maybe replace
the sealing rubber, but stick with it.  You want flow rather than
pressure if you see what I mean since the carbs require only 3psi and
you have a recirculating system.  Too much pressure will flood the
carbs especially if they are old.  If it's not broken I'd say don't
fix it.

Cheers'
Steve.

------------------------------

From: Andrew Grafton <A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk>
Subject: Loose steering thread
Date: Mon, 3 Jul 95 12:47:32 BST

> they describe.  The only addition I could make is: Substitute the words
> "medium hammer" with "the biggest hammer you can lift."  I eventually used
> a small sledge hammer (ie. a one-handed sledge hammer) I don't consider
> that 'medium'.  Anyway, the steering is "show room new."  I am very
> pleased.

I thought that a 'medium' hammer was a two-handed sledge, and that a
'large' was when you used the Landrover as the hammer, as per 
steering relay removal?  8-)

Congrats. on the steering, tho'

All the best,

Andy
A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk

------------------------------

From: Andrew Grafton <A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk>
Subject: Dual circ brakes (fao Alan Richer)
Date: Mon, 3 Jul 95 12:50:25 BST

Sorry about this - I need to get this to Alan Richer and 
the direct route keeps bouncing my mail.

On our '82 SIII 109" diesel, the dual ciruit brakes are
split front and rear.

That's all, folks!

All the best,

Andy
A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk

------------------------------

From: Andrew Grafton <A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk>
Subject: MOT test blues
Date: Mon, 3 Jul 95 13:28:08 BST

Can anyone suggest what to do about this?

Put our Diesel 109" (1982) through the MOT test and it
failed only on 'excessive smoke' and two minor things 
I have fixed.  The smoke test
consisted of 6 foot-to-the-floor rev tests with
a smokemeter up the tailpipe.

Now I'm not suggesting a connection, but the engine
threw a ring off 25 miles further down the road.
We've rebuilt the engine - rebore, o/s pistons,
new journals, valves reground etc. etc.

I can't run in the car properly because it hasn't got
an MOT or tax.  

I can't get an MOT because if they floor the throttle
it will (probably) bugger the engine.

It won't pass the MOT anyway until the rings bed in and
it stops smokin'

There is a limit to the number of miles I can do on private
land, and anyhow I have to get there...

Went to visit the Police who said that they cannot/will not
help as it is illegal to have the car on the road without 
an MOT or tax, unless I am on my way to a booked MOT test.
I asked if I could get an MOT test booked 300 miles away 
but they said I would get the book thrown at me if I got 
caught trying that one on.  Apparently it is illegal to be
on the road without tax even if on the way to an MOT.

Rang the Dept. of Transport who said that there are *NO
EXCEPTIONS* and I would have to find a way around it.  
They were really unhelpful.

Added to all this I have an MOT failure sheet which only failed
me on windcreen wipers, the steering damper and excessive smoke.

Aaargh!

Anyone suggest an alternative to doing a couple of hundred (or more)
miles around the University Campus and/or an airfield?

Anyone know of someone in the Midlands (pref. Nottingham/Leicester
area) who will miss off the smoke test bit of the MOT?  N.B. the
car is '82 and officially needs to pass the abovementioned test.

Any other ideas who I can talk to about this?  It is things like
this that will make an honest citizen like me (!?) go out and break
the Law for a few weeks.

Yours fretfully,

Andy
A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk

------------------------------

From: hlapa@Zeus.signalcorp.com
Date: Mon, 03 Jul 95 09:05:16 EST
Subject: Oxygenated Gasoline

          Friends, 
          
          Seems like using the wrong fuel is a warranty voider in the 
          LRNA paperwork that comes with a new vehicle, including the 
          so-called oxygenated fuels that the Feds have forced into 
          certain areas (including metro D.C.) during winter months.  
          **Is this true?**  Tend to agree that as long as there's no 
          pinging, no mechanical harm's done (maybe accelerated 
          corrosion in fuel system?).  Just don't let a lawyer know 
          you buy gas in a Greenpeace zone, I guess.  I'm surprised 
          that I haven't noticed the oxyfuel thread (this is not 
          leaded vs unleaded) before now, or is it that few of read 
          the new vehicle paperwork because of the incomparable 
          confidence the L-R inspires?
          
          Maybe Al Gore will provide guaranteed health care for those 
          Rovers forced to drink this government-required swill.
          
          "Hank E. Panky"
          1960 Ser II 109 SWD
          1995 Discovery 5-sp 8i

------------------------------

From: hlapa@Zeus.signalcorp.com
Date: Mon, 03 Jul 95 09:12:19 EST
Subject: 1/76 scale models

          Modelers,
          
          Talk about synchronomy....Friday the mail came from APC 
          Hobbies in VA.  JB Models kits no 1001 and 1003 are LWB 
          Land-Rovers (injected plastic, 1/76) at $6.75 each.  Call 
          (804)973-2705, Visa, MC, Disc.
          
          You can also subscribe to APC's old kit list, which features 
          out-of-production models.  I've seen various L-R kits listed 
          regularly.
          
          Happy hunting,
          Hank

------------------------------

From: hlapa@Zeus.signalcorp.com
Date: Mon, 03 Jul 95 09:41:32 EST
Subject: Old Meets New - Got the Disco

          All,
          
          Got the call at work Friday -- "Would you like your 
          Discovery for the 4th of July?"  It was home later that 
          night, keeping company with my 60 Ser II safari 109.  
          
          Gearbox seemed a tad stiff going into third at first, but 
          seemed much better, normal in fact, shortly.  I carefully 
          put 100 restrained "city/backroad miles" on the engine and 
          did first oil change.  (I plan on doing 5 before the first 
          trip to the dealer at 7500.  Sure I'm paranoid about 
          break-in, but we intend to keep this car a long time!)
          
          Have noticed that the engine compartment, bonnet, and latch 
          seem to get unexpectedly h-o-t HOT to the touch in short 
          order, even on 80-degree day with AC on low blower.  Is this 
          normal?  Is that engine wax I smell cooking off when I get 
          out of the car?  I put a pair of flyer's nomex gloves in the 
          glove box, though.  It seems they *will* come in handy.
          
          Ordered (and started receiving) the add-on goodies from 
          Rovers North, whose prices on these items are less than 
          list, at least through July 31.  Also, the shipping charges 
          will be less than the sales tax I would've had to pay if I 
          had gotten them from the dealer.  Reason to :-) !
          
          To prospective owners: this vehicle feels SOLID from the 
          driver's seat, and is very nimble to boot.  All second 
          thoughts and possible doubts will quickly evaporate upon 
          consumation.  A pure pleasure to drive, but I will never 
          give up my metal dash panel!  
          
          So now it's "H.M.S. Warrior" and "the wifemobile" in the 
          yard.  I'll assume that it's OK to actually *wash* the 
          latter on a regular basis.  
          
          Getting seat covers 'cause I have kids,
          Hank

------------------------------

From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date:  2 Jul 95 23:05:29 EDT
Subject: Copper Head gaskets: Sealer or no?

The subject says it all...do you use sealer on a head gasket?
Instinct says no, but I've learned not to trust my instincts on this
beast...

Secondarily, when one is fitting a rear main seal and rear main
bearings, one runs up against 2 L-shaped fiber insert gaskets
on the sides of the main bearing cap. Both are the same, yes?

If this is the case, Atlantic British owes me a new seal, NOW.....
I HATE mailorder.....but I guess this is one of the charms of owning
an elderly British tank...8*)...

     ajr

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Jul 1995 09:54:32 -0700
From: rdmoritz@ix.netcom.com (Richard Moritz)
Subject: Re: Gas (Oxygenated Fuels)

I have a question.
>The RR owners manual ststes that one should not use low octane gas or
>oxygenated gas like gasahol.  What does that do to the engine?  Is 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
>using
>unleaded gas in leaded cars?

My '74 88's gas tank sprang a major leak a couple years ago. It was 
total, insofar as it filled the garage, and sudden, insofar as there 
was no leak, than the entire thing burst a week I was out of town. Full 
tank as well.

It appeared that the gasket (rubber?) between the pressed joints on 
both sides of the tank had degraded. I bought a new gas tank, and got 
the impression from the salesperson that gas tank failure frequency was 
on the rise. Could be simply age related, but I keep remembering all of 
the LR literature regarding natural rubber parts and always wondered 
whether or not the 10% ethanol might have contributed to the problem. I 
seem to remember similar concerns for rubber (non-metal) components in 
U.S. manufactured vehicles.

It's hard to avoid some ethanol concentration in gasoline these days, 
and to date the new gas tank is O.K.

RD in Houston

------------------------------

Subject: steering relay bolt sizes
From: paul@frcs.alt.za (Paul Nash)
Date: Mon, 03 Jul 1995 08:07:10 +1000

I've just started giving my new series III a thorough once-over, and
found that one of the steering relay bolts (the little ones that you
remove to refill it with oil) is missing.  I'm not keen to drive with
another one out, so rather than taking one of its siblings to a nut-
and-bolt shoppe to find a mate, I'm trying to find what size it is
supposed to be.  I assume imperial rather than metric, and a first
guess would be 3/16 UNC by 1/2 inch.

Any definitive answers?

--
   Paul Nash <paul@frcs.alt.za>       turbo-nerd & all-round nice guy
       14/114 Blamey Cres, Campbell, Canberra ACT 2601, AUSTRALIA

------------------------------

From: srbrown@sair020.energylan.sandia.gov
Date: Mon, 3 Jul 1995 14:21:10 -0600
Subject: 89 Rangerover Overheating???

My 89 Rangerover seems to be running hot, or so the temperature gage
says. Should I believe it? For months, ever since I bought it, the
temperature gauge has been riding about 1/4 up the scale from cold.
Suddenly, going up a long grade it started to climb, and it got to
2/3-3/4 scale. It cooled off going down hill, but it's been acting up
ever since. Sometimes I start it up and within minutes its at 2/3
scale, sometimes it never exceeds 1/4. Sometimes it switches back and
forth during a longer drive (albeit rather slowly -- within 5-10
miles). For the last few days it has stayed at 2/3-3/4 scale after a
reasonable warm-up period.  The engine coolant level is always fine,
no overflow, and the thing doesn't seem excessively hot when I open up
the hood.

Questions,

--- Has anyone experienced this sort of thing?

--- Is the temperature sensor the guy living in the thermostat housing? Is
    there only one? I un plugged it and the temperature gage was
    apparently unaffected (or it has a great memory).

--- The temperature sensor appears to be a thermistor or poteniometer, if
    you like, what resistances should it be reading at, say cold?

--- What is the standard thermostat temperature range for this vehicle?
    Could it be sticking closed?

--- In an aluminum block engine is it likely that junk could be clogging
    the radior part of the time? If so where would said junk come from?

By the way, there is an "odd" stubbed-off (unused) wire with a red
plastic plug in the end of a connector in the wiring harness near the
place where the presumed temperature sensor wires disappear into the
spaghetti near the radiator filler. That wire had rubbed through the
insulation of itself and one of the temperature sensor (?)  wires,
apparently shorting them together. Any clues as to what this wire is
for and what the consequences of that mishap might be?

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
 /==============\
 | `63  |  IIa  |          Stephen Brown
 |______|_______| 	   Geomechanics Department, MS-0751
 /___/^^^^^^\___\9	   Sandia National Laboratories
 |oo|(@)##(@)|oo|	   Albuquerque, New Mexico 87185
 |  | [####] |  |
 ======%%%%======	   email: srbrown@sandia.gov
 {*}={&&}====={*}
 {*}          {*}          RockNet: http://sair019.energylan.sandia.gov:70
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

------------------------------

From: Sanna@aol.com
Date: Mon, 3 Jul 1995 19:54:47 -0400
Subject: Steering That Goes Bump in the Night

Bump in the daylight too!  The front end of my '89 RR just started to
decompensate.  It began with a slight clunk during braking and a squeek in
the front end.  Then the steering started to pulsate during turns, a little,
but not exactly, like wheel-hop on hard pavement with the dif-lock on.  Now
it's rythmically clunking (thwap, thwap, thwap...) during turns, like
something is loose and hitting the frame or body.  It sounds serious.  Any
ideas out there?  Nothing seems loose on casual inspection.  The tie rod ends
are a little worn, but not excessively so.

Tony

-

------------------------------

From: Russell Burns <burns@cisco.com>
Subject: Re: Steering That Goes Bump in the Night
Date: Mon, 3 Jul 95 18:29:34 PDT

Try the pan hard rod. Any play sounds terrible. I shimmed with
beer cans for 20K miles....

Russ Burns
91 R-Rover
94 D-90
> To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net

	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 17 lines)]
> ideas out there?  Nothing seems loose on casual inspection.  The tie rod ends
> are a little worn, but not excessively so.
> Tony

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Jul 95 20:01:47 PDT
From: jpappa01@InterServ.Com (Jim Pappas)
Subject: Re: 	Misc.

Just back from Owl's Head. The best yet. Various counts were made, but 
concensus was on the order of 112 Land Rovers!!! Wow.

Off Road on Sat. was very well attended (except that I was stuck in the 95N 
parking lot and missed it!) with over 40 vehicles there!

Some really nicely restored Series landies were on hand including an 
immaculate 4-sale ($27K!!) NADA 6-cyl 109. Coupla Dormobiles, a Defender 130 
(!) Plenty of Discos compared with only a couple last year - and a good bunch 
of D90's. Only a single D110.

Picking up where I left off on the D90 posting yesterday - the D90 *Station 
Wagon* will (at least as far as I know) be basically a D110 treatment with 
wind up windows, metal top, four rear jumps, and an external cage ala D110! 
Not confirmed though.  Nor any info on pricing or color choice - if any 
choices. I'll keep you posted.

cheerz
Jim

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Jul 1995 22:34:58 -0700
From: gpool@pacific.pacific.net (Granville B. Pool)
Subject: Re: diesels and brakes...

Andy Dingley wrote, regarding John Hong's notion of air-boosted brakes:

>If you could find an air pressure servo for a master cylinder, rather 
>than a vacuum servo, this would be feasible. I believe such things have 
>been made, but they're extremely rare in suitable sizes for LRs.

All the larger army trucks (e.g. deuce-and-a-halfs), when I was in the Army,
had air-over-hydraulic brakes.  So there must have been plenty of them made.
One of the features of this system, as I recall, is to make instant
connection for trailer brakes upon hooking up an air line coupling to the
trailer.

Cheers,

Granville B. Pool, Redwood Valley, CA   (707)485-7220 (home)
<gpool@pacific.pacific.net>             (707)463-4265 (work)
Land-Rover Series III 88", more Land-Rovers, Austin Champ Military 4x4...

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Jul 1995 02:15:09 -0500 (CDT)
From: Mark Perry <rxq281@freenet.mb.ca>
Subject: sightings

First sighting is to concur with fate of D90 sales in Canada. The local 
BMW purveyor here became the Land Rover rep last year. The Discos started 
appearing around town, and I gather they have moved a couple or three 
RRs, but the sole D90 I saw on the premises, sat, and sat. Last time I 
rolled past it wasn't in sight, so who knows. Of course, this being 
Winnipeg, people are going to wait for the used ones to show up, or find 
out who's got a cousin who can get it for them wholesale. 
The fate of D90 does bear out what one Canadian new car guide book said 
dismissively about the D90; great off-road vehicle, but too basic and too 
expensive to be anything but a rich man's plaything. Last advertised price 
I saw here was CDN$34,800. Of course, back before '74, the Series 
machines were not big sellers hereabouts, either. Poor marketing (then), 
the dominance of the U.S. and the auto pact, followed by the Japanese 
ascendancy, thwarted whatever opportunity might have existed for the LR 
to prove what an ideal utility it could have been in this country: To wit; 
a gent admiring my IIA one day said he'd worked on a remote northern hydro 
project, where they'd used an assortment of 4x4s including a couple of 
LRs. When the project was done the, clapped-out vehicles were abandoned at 
the site, except, he noted, the Land Rovers.

Second sighting: Did I miss this before, or did anyone spot (about four 
frames of it) a stretch-limo Range Rover in Dumb and Dumber. (Or am I the 
only LRO who'd admit to watching the movie?) It's passed in the shot 
where the two dumb guys ride into Aspen, Colo., on their mini-bike.
Incidentally, a SERII 109 SW turned up in a scene in the Dutch movie 
Spetters which was on cable (Showcase) the other night. 

BTW, when I dropped in once at above-mentioned LR dealer, and asked in a 
friendly way about parts or service support for Series-type vehicles, 
they acted as if I had landed from Mars. I think the salesmen might have 
even feared my IIA out front was scaring off trade. I loitered in the 
showroom for a few minutes and not one of the buggers even came over to 
ask if wanted to buy a Disco or something. If they'd even tried, if would 
have been nice; if they'd tried real hard, I might have even taken that 
D90 for a test ride.

Cheers.

 
Mark Perry   Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada 1966 Ser.IIA 88 Petrol Hardtop 
"Yes, I can see quite well over the spare tire."

------------------------------

  END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST 
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