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Date: Fri, 2 Jul 1993 03:19:56 -0500
From: kgb@uic.edu (Ken Berliner)
Subject: Gas

I have a question.
The RR owners manual ststes that one should not use low octane gas or
oxygenated gas like gasahol.  What does that do to the engine?  Is this
basically the same thread as before when everyone was talking about using
unleaded gas in leaded cars?

kgb

*********************************************************
Reachable at
E-mail: kgb@uic.edu
WWW: http://www.uic.edu/~kgb/     <- Whoa! I'm on the web
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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 2 Jul 1995 03:22:50 -0500 (CDT)
From: Mark Perry <rxq281@freenet.mb.ca>
Subject: rover turbos

Lloyd Allison of Oz was looking for more info on Rover's turbo cars. He 
and other LROs should try to find The Rover Story: A Century of Success, 
by Graham Robson (Cambridge, Stephens, 1977) It has a good account of the 
hows and whys of the Rover turbos and some interesting pix of same. The 
chapter on Land Rovers tells the basic tale of the origins of LR and its 
place in the Rover organization, as well as the origins of the Range 
Rover.Interesting book for LROs to get an overview of the nature of the firm 
that produces their favorite 4x4 (at least as the firm was up until the 
era of B*****h L*****d.)

Now I'm a bit puzzled about Stage 1 110's after recent posts. A fellow 
hereabouts has the only 110 in town, a 1983 2.25 diesel LHD two-door 
hardtop he says started life in France, then found its way to a farm here in Manitoba 
from whence he bought it. It has the horizontal louvre grille, not the 
squarish thing I've seen in pix of early 110s. Now would it be Stage 1, 
pre-stage 1, or post Stage 1? 

Regards,

Mark Perry   Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
1966 Ser.IIA 88 Petrol Hardtop (currently languishing in chassis shop for 
new springs, X-member, etc.  "Yes, I can see quite well over the spare 
tire."

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 02 Jul 95 13:20:38
From: Andy Dingley <dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk>
Subject: diesels and brakes...

> From: jhong@haiku.com (John Hong)
> Re: the thread on diesels and braking - how feasible is the reverse - 
> instead of vacuum how about positive pressure?  Don't the big trucks have a 
> compressor and storage tank for brakes 

Not really feasible I'm afraid. The problem is that large trucks have 
"air brakes" (brakes where air works the actuators on the wheels) and 
cars & LRs have "vacuum assisted hydraulic" brakes (where the gas 
pressure operates the servo booster under the bonnet, but the brakes 
themselves remain hydraulic). Small trucks use servo-hydraulics too,
but these are a large servo unit mounted on the chassis (maybe 2'-3' 
long).

If you could find an air pressure servo for a master cylinder, rather 
than a vacuum servo, this would be feasible. I believe such things have 
been made, but they're extremely rare in suitable sizes for LRs.

-- 
Andy Dingley                                      dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk                                          

    And the Whale asked, "Do all oceans have walls ?"

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 2 Jul 95 09:35:17 PDT
From: brabyn@skivs.ski.org (John Brabyn)
Subject: Re:  Drag link ball joint

The shop manual shows a special tool -- a cross between a clamp and a puller
-- used to push the ball joints out. The only one I've done came out
by hand when I removed the nut at the bottom of it. I guess various
ingenious means of applying force can be devised -- sorry not to be more 
help

Good luck

John Brabyn

89 RR

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 2 Jul 1995 11:04:26 -0700
From: jjbpears@ix.netcom.com (Jeremy Bartlett)
Subject: PO tales from the crypt (fuelishness)

Well, just thought I'd post my latest discoveries on Mathilda's (IIA 109 
SW) PO's mechanical endeavors for you amusement since the list is quiet 
again.  In the process of working under the vehicle tracking down a 
coolant leak (turns out to be a shot seal in the water pump that was 
slowly leaking down the outside of the block to the oil pan -thanks to 
one and all for the advice) I noticed the following:

The fuel line has been replaced (the original is cut but still in 
place).  The replacement roughly parallels the original, BUT, (here 
comes the wierd part) it bypasses the original sediment bowl and 
mechanical pump, runs up to an aftermarket filter, across the top of the 
engine to the carburetor.  The other part of this story is the PO said 
it wouldn't run because it needed a new carb.  

Pretty funny in a way. I assume you see the problem. 

The original wiring to the sender/gauge has also been replaced, although 
the original harness still runs through the frame.

The tank breather tube no longer runs to the filler cap area and there 
doesn't seem to be a point to attach it at per the LR shop manual.  I'll 
have to take a look at this and see if parts are needed.  The current 
breather tube is lying on top of the tank open to the atmosphere 
beneath the rear of the vehicle not too far from the sender electrical 
connections.  Doesn't seem to healthy :o .

By the way I've noticed that in the Land Rover shop manual there appears 
to be an error in the technical drawings for the 2.25 liter fuel line.  
The drawings show the fuel line from the side tank going to a sediment 
bowl only and from there to the carburetor (although they are labeled as 
going from the sed. bowl to the pump no pump is shown.)  The figures 
show only the isolated sed. bowl as used on the 6 cyl. model not the 
mechanical pump/sed bowl combination used on the 2.25 models.  I wonder 
if the PO based his modification on this figure!

As I traced the fuel line I also noticed an interesting jury rigged 
cotter pin replacement at the rear U-joint.  No cotter pin, instead a 
nail was inserted and bent.  Seems OK, but a little odd to look at the 
nut and see a nail head in there!

Cheers,

Jeremy

P.S.  If you don't get it there's no fuel pump anywhere in the current 
fuel line! No wonder it wouldn't run.

P.P.S. I checked the oil and plugs in tracing the coolant leak all are 
fine.  The radiator took 17.5 cups of water to fill it back up so its 
definitely time for a water pump rebuild. Definitely much easier to 
trace or notice leaks once the parts are clean!

------------------------------

Date: 02 Jul 95 19:01:53 EDT
From: "WILLIAM  L. LEACOCK" <75473.3572@compuserve.com>
Subject: Reconditioned gearboxes.

Dave Brown  asks about reconditioned gearboxes in the UK.
 Caveat emptor..   Reconditioned is a word with a large range of meanings,
aplied to the factory item it means that  ALL wearing parts are replaced,
applied to a $400 gearbox it means anyhting from  "cleaned " to perhaps a few
parts replaced.
Using your own prices for parts how can anyone recondition a gearbox for less
than the cost of parts. Your prices do not include , as a minimum the second /
third gear bearing bush and circlip,  layshaft bearings and gaskets etc.
  I have "repaired' scores of Land Rover gearboxes, ie replaced the minimum
number of service parts and the broken / damaged gears , shafts and bearings,
using where appropriate used gears and shafts  for friends and members of the LR
clubs to which I belonged. 
  You also mention some of the gears are paired, I know of one "professional "
gearbox repairer who advertises widely who has a large pile of used parts in the
corner of the workshop which is the parts store from which gearboxes are
"reconditioned" .  It is not essential that worn gears are paired, after all
what are a few extra decibels of gearbox noise in a Landy when you  have cross
ply tyres and a diesel engine.
 Another problem with your prices is quoted prices for reconditioned gearboxes
are usually " exchange" so you would attract either extra shipping costs or an
excess charge.
 Buy some used parts and do it yourself, at least you know what has gone in to
it.

Regards   Bill Leacock	 Limey in exile.
 
PS Happy holiday in the colonies, just think , in addition to the Land Rover you
have the Brits to thank for an extra days holiday on Tuesday!!

------------------------------

Subject: model land rovers
From: rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (Robin Craig)
Date: Sun, 02 Jul 95 16:17:26 -0500

For those of you who would like to start of with model Land Rovers in a 
gentle way then perhaps I can suggest any easy solution.

P.G. Models  of 3 St James Park Brackla, Bridgend, Mid Glamorgan CF31 2NP 
England puts out a number of military land Rovers in the N gauge. If you 
are wondering what scale that works out to it is 1 / 148th (UK).

He has both a soft and hard top 3/4 ton S3 109 plus the 1/4 ton trailers 
to go with them. He also does a 3/4 ton ambulance which is series three I 
beleive. The Land Rovers were about 2pounds a piece or just under when I 
ordered over a year ago.

Paul Gandy makes nice simple models. They are a complete vehicle less the 
wheels which you can put on with superglue. Including painting and 
assembly from out of the pack to made was about 12 minutes each!

These models are made of resin and are not suitable for the little ones 
as they are barely 1/2 inch long when made.

TTFN 

Robin Craig

--
Robin Craig, rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Ottawa, Ont. |  Ottawa Valley Land Rovers

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Jul 1993 20:47:21 -0500
From: kgb@uic.edu (Ken Berliner)
Subject: Re: Gas

>I'm a little surprised the V8 has trouble with poor fuel. It is quite

Actually, the 3.95 V8 on my RR is running fine.  It's just that I came
across their recomendations, and I was wondering how I'd do damage to the
truck by using cheap gas.  So I will infer that as long as I don't hear
knocking, then I have nothing to worry about.

Thanks for the info.
kgb

*********************************************************
Reachable at
E-mail: kgb@uic.edu
WWW: http://www.uic.edu/~kgb/     <- Whoa! I'm on the web
*********************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Jul 1993 20:47:51 -0500
From: kgb@uic.edu (Ken Berliner)
Subject: Re:  Drag link ball joint

Actually, not only can you use a puller on the drop arm, one can be used
for the drop arm ball joint.  As for the drag link ball joint, I
misrepresented the situation...  the drag link did come out with a mild tap
of a medium hammer.  It was the G&^%&^%* drop arm ball joint that wouldn't
come un-done.  I used a puller and believe-it-or-not rather than free the
ball joint, it compressed that little hole the stay pin goes through!
That's when I got pissed and used the sledge hammer.

kgb
89RR

*********************************************************
Reachable at
E-mail: kgb@uic.edu
WWW: http://www.uic.edu/~kgb/     <- Whoa! I'm on the web
*********************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 2 Jul 1995 21:50:22 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Steven Swiger (LIS)" <swiger@luna.cas.usf.edu>
Subject: Destruction => Restoration o' da' Moose...

First of all, thanks to all that replied regarding my Stage One query.  I 
have now become thoroughly edumacated.

This weekend I finally got to do some work on Moose, my 73 III 88.  What 
I started with was a daily driver from Boston, shipped to florida.  
Although it runs strong, it has a cracked exhaust manifold and poor 
exhaust system.  While the frame appeared weathered, after delivery it 
was downright scary.  This weekend reinforced my beliefs....

After making arrangements with Jim Cartier of Seminole Rovers (Seminole 
FL (813 399-2961) for the replacement of the rear frame-half, Jim had the 
truck towed to his workshop so I could begin the strip down.  BTW, He had 
four other landies in his shop at the time - 1 IIa 109 diesel (full 
restoration, I think), 1 IIa 88 used for hunting (complete with skinning 
table affixed to the rear crossmember) in for a suspension rebuild, 1 II 
88 Daktari colored safari machine, no idea what was being done to it, and 
a III 88 for light engine work (electrical).  He is terrific on price for 
parts, has lotz o' used stuff, and does great work.

Anyway, a friend volunteered to help with the removal of the top, bed, 
seatbox, and gastank.  It took us about three hours, and after everything 
but the gas tank was removed, the frame proceeded to break (literally) in 
half just behind the gastank outrigger, attempting to destroy my rear 
propshaft and what was left of the exhaust system in the process.  
Luckily it was caught in time and jacked up again for the time being.

After careful appraisal of the situation, I found that not only did the 
frame work need to be done, but the rear springs were past the point of 
recovery, and the corrosion of the bed was bad enough to warrant 
replacement instead of repair.

So, unwittingly, I find myself with a frame-off restoration on my hands, 
and need some advice.

1.  Does the whole front end of the truck (wings, grill, etc.) have to be 
removed to take out the bulkhead? (I am going to put in a IIa bulkhead 
and trade the III bulkhead).

2.  Does anyone have any inner wings (the piece of aluminum that 
seperates the wheelwell from the engine compartment) that they would part 
with? (Mark Talbot, might you?)

3.  When rebuilding the hardtop, would it be easier to replace the side 
window channels or replace the whole assembly?

4.  How do I get the 2- to 4- wheel drive push rod to lock down (the 
truck was used in the city, in two wheel drive, for god-knows-how-long.  
I can get it to engage 4-low range, but not 4-high, it won't lock down.)

Any and all suggestions would be much appreciated...HELP!

Thanks in advance from myself and Moose,
steve
swiger@luna.cas.usf.edu
73 III 88"  "Moose"  under destruction.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 2 Jul 95 21:59 EDT
From: jhoward@atlas.usno.navy.mil (James D. Howard)
Subject: Wanted.  88in Hardtop window

Anyone got a starboard side window and frame for a 88" hardtop they
would be willing to sell me?  The PO took mine out to install cabinets
in the back, and I want to take them out and be able to see out there.

Thanks,

James

67 MGB/GT
70 James Howard
72 Land Rover 88
72 MGB

------------------------------

From: Nckcharles@aol.com
Date: Mon, 3 Jul 1995 01:06:42 -0400
Subject: Re: #1Engine roaring

Don't know if this will help, but if your engine is roaring (reving high)
when
you first start out each day this can do a fair amount of damage as oil
has not been fully distributed to all the moving parts. I would check
the engine idle sensor. I presume the LR has one.
Nick

------------------------------

From: Nckcharles@aol.com
Date: Mon, 3 Jul 1995 01:28:57 -0400
Subject: Re: Discovery driving impressions/Re: J Friedman

For what it's worth.
I have a new 95 Discovery with only 1000 miles on it.
I love this truck, it's feels more substantial than any other
4wd I've ever driven. I've owned 4 Isuzu Troopers, and driven
just about everything else out west,( Toyo's, Pathfinders, Cherokees,
Blazers, etc). This vehicle is in a class by itself, if it turns out
to be reliable, it will blow the others away. This is decidedly
the most truck for the money currently available. One other thing,
for people who need mainly a suburban family hauler, the LR is
probably overkill, but still lots of fun.
Good luck with your new Disco, you'll love it.
Nick

------------------------------

From: Nckcharles@aol.com
Date: Mon, 3 Jul 1995 01:42:06 -0400
Subject: Re: Locking Storage?

Does anyone know of any aftermarket product available
that would allow me to create either a locking glove box or
locking center console on a LR Discovery?
Thanks in advance.
Nick

------------------------------

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