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msgSender linesSubject
1 "WILLIAM L. LEACOCK" [760Misc.
2 William Caloccia [calocc28[not specified]
3 Eric Russell [erussell@c19Re: South Africa Wins World Rugby..
4 GuyEVER@aol.com 22Problems selling RR
5 "Allan A. McKinnon" [all41Master Cyl & Disc Brks
6 vortex@worldaccess.nl (B91Re: Use of Propane
7 cyoungso@Direct.CA (Chri15Syncronising clutch dissassembly
8 Craig Murray [craigp@ocs31Re: Misc.
9 JFisk1120@aol.com 23Movie Sighting!
10 johnliu@earthlink.net (J29Re: Split Charge Circuits


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Date: 25 Jun 95 09:58:10 EDT
From: "WILLIAM  L. LEACOCK" <75473.3572@compuserve.com>
Subject: Misc.

J. Dolan....  Rover 2000 sc distibutor spec.
 	                dist number.   rotation     . ecm curve       range
suction	
rover 2000 low comp  41036a       clock                 832             17-19
deg    3-11-12
rover 2000 hi comp     41119a       clock	             850            12-
14 deg    4-14-8
LR                                   40944a      clock                  705
20-22 deg    4-18-12

There were several model numbers used for the LR but similar characteristics.

The re is quite a difference in the centrifugal advance angle, will this be
better for low grade fuel ? I can't comment.
 It is easy to swop the flyweight and cam assembly from one 25d4 to another.
  the base plates are interchangable,

  Bob Bernard,   gearing 88 -109 is the same for each model type, ie ser 1, 2 ,
2a , 3
  1 and 2 being the same and 2a and 3 the same. The only difference in the
effective gearing, as standard is the tyre size. Crazy having the lighter
vehicle with the lower gearing !!

 Walter.. The high speed transfer boxes made by IAn Ascroft conversion in the UK
are a well made unit. He uses Rover gears. The standard main gearbox output gear
has the teeth machined off, one of the other larger gears has a  bore wire
eroded in it to fit over the reduced output gear and  is tig welded in place.
The intermediate shaft hole of a ser 1 or 2 small  shaft gearbox is enlarged and
offset to the same dia as the later 2a or 3 intermediate shaft to provide the
new centre distance required. The ones I have seen are very quiet, ther is a
slight chance of gear whine from the mix and match of the gears since normally
the helical gears are match paired to minimise noise.
 These mods are ideal for the more powerful  engined vehicles, or for those with
small tyres that never do any towing, or live on the plains where there are no
hills.
 The overdrive gives the driver more choice gear ratio, and is a lot easier to
fit.

 Dave...   In the seventies I fitted a propane conversion to my 88, I got around
12 mpg on propane and 16 on petrol. Due to the pricing structure the benefits
were marginal, I found myself driving out of the way to buy propane and the
marginal savings were lost. The large gas tank inhibited the rear load bed.
 Propane is used a lot in some european countries where the tax structure
encourages it. The fuel does not contain lead so valves eventually become a
problem. Oil change intervals can be extended since propane is a lot cleaner
than petrol ( I am using petrol to avoid confusion with the word gas ) . If you
use a zenith carb  there can be problems with the O ring seals drying out when
the engine runs on propane so thatwhen petrol is reintroduced flooding can
occur. I don't know what a Rochester carb looks like so I don t know if this
would be a problem, I'm sure we will soon find out.  I found the the engine
started very easily on  propane.

   Regards    Bill Leacock    Limey in exile.
PS. welcome to the YROC member, from an ex member 1971 ish to 1994. Still a
Pennine member.

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Subject: South Africa Wins World Rugby..
Date: Sun, 25 Jun 95 11:46:17 -0400
From: William Caloccia <caloccia@sw.stratus.com>

For those of you who missed watching the Final match between the New Zealand
'All Blacks' and the South African  'Springboks', the match went into 
overtime with a score of 9-9, the Kiwi's were looking pretty good with a 
12-9 lead in the first half of overtime, but the Springboks picked up
another 3 on penality, with the score being 12-12 going into the second
half of the extra time, and then scored another 3, and finished 15-12
with South Africa Winning.

Unfortunately, Olivetti didn't invite me to watch it from their Box, so
I got to watch it on the Tele here...

Partying and revelery continued into the wee hours here in J'burg,
as well as in other parts of S.A. I suspect...

	Cheers,
	- Bill caloccia@stratus.com  <web: "http://www.uk.stratus.com/billc/">
				also <web: "http://www.senie.com/billc/">
	Stratus Computer Ltd
	UK Customer Assistance Centre
	Central House, Lampton Road
	Hounslow, Middlesex, TW3 1HY,  U.K.

	tel:	+44 181 569 4422 x377
	fax:	+44 181 569 4755

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Date: Sun, 25 Jun 1995 09:07:54 -0700 (PDT)
From: Eric Russell <erussell@cln.etc.bc.ca>
Subject: Re: South Africa Wins World Rugby..

........... and the New Jersey Devils won the Stanley Cup in ice hockey!

erussell@cln.etc.bc.ca
Grade 6 teacher at Ridgeview Elementary School, West Vancouver, B.C., Canada
Secretary of The Rover Car Club of Canada

On Sun, 25 Jun 1995, William Caloccia wrote:

> To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net

	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 30 lines)]
> 	Central House, Lampton Road
> 	Hounslow, Middlesex, TW3 1HY,  U.K.
> 	tel:	+44 181 569 4422 x377

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From: GuyEVER@aol.com
Date: Sun, 25 Jun 1995 12:46:21 -0400
Subject: Problems selling RR

Desperately in need of some, help, advice or whatever.  My son is preparing
to sell his 1988 Range Rover and we had it checked by a mechanic as we feel
most potential buyers would do the same and wanted to be prepared.  There
were a few minor things, but what concerns me are several others:    1.
 Front and rear axle seals (one in front and one in rear).  The local dealer
says about $250 per wheel so we're looking at $500 there.  2.  Transmission
lines leaking?  Not much of a leak though.  3.  Oil pressure sending switch.
4.  Rear main seal leaking, but again not very badly.    I think my son
overfilled the crankcase with oil and caused 3 and 4.  5.  Transfer case
leak.  Again not very bad.  Can anybody tell what all of this means in terms
of re sell, seriousness, etc.  Your help is certainly appreciated.

Guy Everhart
Tucker, GA
                                 
 

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Date: Sun, 25 Jun 95 13:02:27 -0600
From: "Allan A. McKinnon" <allan@atropos.dpic.bc.ca>
Subject: Master Cyl & Disc Brks

Hello:  

I've been a technovoyeur of the group for about 12 months. I've had  
my 67'  88 for the last two decade and just completed a frame up on a  
59' 109. Have my eye on a 52' SI crying for a rebuild...

Last week I caught a tread about using an AMC dual master cylinder in  
place of the stock unit.  If the part number was posted I missed it.  
Please repost.

I also want to replace my 109 drums with disc brakes off some readily  
available NA junker.  Any hints, tips, techniques, commercial  
adaptors?

My pal Gary Mummery passes along his regards to the list.  He's a bit  
of a legend in the SE corner of the Province with over 20+ Rovers on  
site and many more rescued and restored back to health. A mine of LR  
trivia and technical expertise...a true Roveria guru.

allan
---
************************************************************
Allan A McKinnon  B.Sc.(Pharm), M.Ed.
        Supervisor, Data Bases
        B.C. Drug & Poison Information Centre - Offsite
        623 - 28th Avenue South
        Cranbrook  B.C. Canada
        V1C 3J9

   E-mail:    mckinnon@dpic.bc.ca (NeXTMail Welcome)
    Phone:    604.426.6910
Facsimile:    604.426.7005

        "Engineering the illusion of simplicity"
************************************************************
	

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Date: Sun, 25 Jun 1995 22:22:45 +0200
From: vortex@worldaccess.nl (Bert Palte)
Subject: Re: Use of Propane

On Sun June 24th, Dave wrote:
>Can anyone tell me how the MPG between petrol and propane compare.  I 
>expect that if propane has less btu per gallon you would need lots more 
>propane to go the same distance. 
*
>Rochester carb just feeding the propane into the air cleaner inlet on the 
>carb.  If I installed a gas line cutoff could I have a two fuel unit with 
>little trouble?  Dave VE4PN
*
Hi Dave,
*
I have some personal experience with propane converted cars, so perhaps 
I can help you out.
Propane conversion has been *very* popular here in Holland for some time.
The reason being that fuel is taxed rather heavily here and Propane is not.
I will give you an example.
Unleaded costs about  US$ 4.70 / U.S. Gallon [Can$ 7.90 / Imperial Gallon].
(do you still buy them by the gallon, or by the litre, now? When I was in
Canada, 
 in 1978, speed limits were in kph, but car speedos were in mph... 
very confusing). 
Propane costs about  US$ 1,30 / U.S. Gallon [Can$ 2.20 / Imperial Gallon]. 
This is offset by a higher road tax, which, incidentally, for my LR is about
Can$ 1400 / US$ 1000 per annum when driving on petrol but considerably more 
when you intend to run the car on propane.
This extra tax for propane-fueled cars has risen *enormously* over the last
years
but say about 15 years ago this difference was not too important.
Nowadays, you have to run many miles on a yearly basis to recover the higher 
tax cost .  (Last time I had  such a car myself was in 1983 or 84.
It was a 1980 Chevrolet Citation, quite a lemon, by the way...).
It is my understanding that in Italy there is a similar system of taxation and 
in that country, there are (or have been)  also many propane fueled cars.
*
Now to the engineering part of my answer to your question.
In theory, the BTU per gallon difference , when I am not mistaken, is
something in the order of 20 or 25 % (i.e. less energy content for propane
as compared to gasoline). So this should be the difference in MPG to expect.
At the time, I kept track of my MPGs.
The thing that I have found is the following.
When you use just a stud, say a 1/2" pipe  to feed propane, coming from the
two-stage converter  into  you air filter, propane and gas will mix
automatically. 
This process is in itself not too critical. It is a cheap and cheerful way. 
I found that fuel consumption was, with a thus converted car,  
indeed about 25 % higher (i.e. less MPG).
However, starting the car was difficult, as was smooth running.
Top speed was somewhat lower, as was overall liveliness (less HP). 
The reduction in HP is something nothing can be done about as you need more 
air to burn the mixture, i.e. with a given (air + fuel) flow, the energy
flow through
your inlet manifold is also reduced. 
Especially the poor starting bit has given propane fuelling a very bad
reputation.
*
Later, special gas-to-air-mixers became available. These take the form of a 
venturi placed on top of the carb. In the narrowest part of the venturi,
bores are
drilled radially to which the propane is fed.
I had a not too common car at the time, a 1972 Sunbeam (=Humber) Sceptre 
with two Zenith-Stromberg carbs in an arrangement not unlike the two 
SU's on an early MGB, in case you are familiar with that. 
For this car, no tailor-made gas-to-air-mixers were available on the market. 
I remember making these mixers (and calculating them) myself in 1979 or so for
this particular car.
*
These gas-to-air-mixers made a *vast* improvement  in starting-up behaviour,    
also in fuel consumption which was now only about 10 percent higher. 
* 
The loss of HP was still noticeable though not as severe.
All cars thus converted have a switch with which you can return 
to normal gasoline fuel. This is a must since in other European countries
propane
is not as readily available as it is here in Holland.
*
The newest development is that there now are injection systems available 
that are  similar to gas injector systems in modern EFI systems.
*
My personal experience with propane-fueled cars does not include LandRovers.
Hope this comment is nevertheless of any help to you.
*
Greetings

Bert Palte                 (PA0LPS)
Holland,Europe
  

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Date: Sat, 13 May 1995 21:10:01 -0700
From: cyoungso@Direct.CA (Chris Youngson)
Subject: Syncronising clutch dissassembly

I am rebuilding my transmission and need some help. I need to know how to
hold back the three spring detent clips in the synchro. clutch. This way I
can withdraw the two funny gear things that hold the clutch to the
mainshaft. I've tried wrapping wire around them and tying them back to one
of the through pins, but the force is to strong. Thanx 

Chris Youngson VE7CST
West Vancouver
British Columbia
Canada

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From: Craig Murray <craigp@ocs.cpsg.com.au>
Subject: Re: Misc.
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 95 8:56:41 EST

> Craig   re your oil burning, you mention changing the valve stem seals on
> rebuild,  how long is it since the valve guides themselves were changed ? Valve
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> you have a servo brake flap on the inlet manifold as this can increase the
> vacuum level slightly.

>  I reckon that 100k   from the valve guides is about it, then it is a matter of
> how much, or how long you put up with the oil burning.
>   I assume that you have determined that it is engine oil that is  creating the
> blue smoke, it could be fuel system problem with timing or metering. Have you
> tried a touch of pump advance ?.

I never thought of valve guides!  As for pump timing, I have never heard 
of pump timing causing blue smoke, only white and black.  I do not have 
vacuum brakes on the vehicle, (Series 1 with 2.25 diesel, what do I need 
brakes for, it can't go fast enough to use them!!!!!)  As for the amount 
of miles the head has done, I am not sure, but it probably was a lot.

--
==============================================================================
Craig Murray                                    |       1955 Series 1 86"
LROC of Victoria Australia                      |       2.25 diesel 
LROC of Gippsland Victoria Australia            |       My car is constipated,
email: craigp@ocs.cpsg.com.au                   |       It has not passed a 
                                                |       thing all day!!

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From: JFisk1120@aol.com
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 1995 00:47:01 -0400
Subject: Movie Sighting!

Since there were ravings about all the Rovers in the movie "Congo", I thought
seriously about going to see it this afternoon, but after reading the
synopsis, I thought it might not be appropriate for my 5 and 7 year
olds...therefore, we opted to go see "Casper" (you know, the friendly ghost
kind).  This lady learns that she has inherited an old condemned mansion that
is inhabited by ghosts.  In the pouring down rain, at night, she drives down
the overgrown road and as we see the headlights coming through the brush my
son *yells*...."it's a Range Rover, it's a Range Rover"!!!  Sure enough, the
next scene we see a dusty black Range Rover.  She soon realizes the mansion
is haunted and calls for a team of laborers, etc. to clean out the
ghosts....when the workers see the ghosts, chaos begins, and they run,
including the guy operating the wrecking ball, which we then see the wrecking
ball heading for the Range Rover.  Next day....she is driving a silver Range
Rover!!!  Needless to say, my kids loved it!

Jan Fisk
Springfield, Missouri

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Date: Sun, 25 Jun 1995 20:56:00 -0700
From: johnliu@earthlink.net (John Y. Liu)
Subject: Re: Split Charge Circuits

You wrote

>I want to put a reserve battery into our LR to run ancillaries 
>like the fridge, the GPS, battery chargers and night/camping 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)]
>circuits' operate.  I can figure out details for myself, but
>what is their principle of operation?

The simplest way is: connect a cable from the positive terminal of your main
(starting) battery to one terminal of a solenoid (a hefty starter solenoid),
and another cable from the other terminal to the positive terminal of your
auxiliary battery.  Ground the auxiliary battery to whatever works - frame,
block, or the ground used for the main battery.  Connect the switching
terminal of the solenoid to something that is live when the ignition is
"on".  This way, when the truck is "on" (and presumably running), the
auxiliary battery is connected to the main one and is either helping to
start the truck or receiving the same charge from the alternator, whichever
is the case.  When you have the truck shut "off" and are using the fridge,
etc., only the auxiliary battery is being drained.  Cost: maybe $20.  You
can also buy electronic isolators, but they cost $50 - $100 and many people
find them unreliable.  Anyway, what is a solid state thingamajig doing in a
Rover?
John Y. Liu
johnliu@earthlink.net

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