[ First Message Last | Table of Contents | <- Digest -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
| msg | Sender | lines | Subject |
| 1 | Mark Perry [rxq281@freen | 25 | Hub seals |
| 2 | JDolan2109@aol.com | 22 | Lucas 25D4 |
| 3 | Andy Dingley [dingbat@co | 41 | Split charge |
| 4 | Sanna@aol.com | 30 | Re: Lucas 25D4 |
| 5 | sommer@tammy.harvard.edu | 7 | Jimmy's board |
| 6 | BobandSueB@aol.com | 20 | d90 top hinge/mirror on series L/R |
| 7 | BobandSueB@aol.com | 12 | 109 beats 88 (speed?) |
| 8 | BobandSueB@aol.com | 12 | brake bleeder screws |
| 9 | ecoethic@rcinet.com | 17 | Hy-Speed Transfer Cases |
| 10 | cs@crl.com (Michael Carr | 27 | Re: Hy-Speed Transfer Cases |
| 11 | David John Place [umplac | 10 | Re: Split charge |
| 12 | David John Place [umplac | 12 | Use of Propane |
| 13 | Treski@aol.com | 10 | Re: The guy with the foward control etc. |
Date: Sat, 24 Jun 1995 03:26:43 -0500 (CDT) From: Mark Perry <rxq281@freenet.mb.ca> Subject: Hub seals Recent thread on leaky hub seals and oily brakes was of interest, since I will soon be on my third left-rear seal in as many months. I found the thing leaking in spring, oil all over brakes, etc. (How could anyone not see a leaky inner hub seal would do this?) Did the RandR, replaced brake shoes, cleaned up mess, replaced seal. The old seal, I noticed was metal clad, whereas the replacement (RTC3510) has the metal bonded in. I noticed the seal race/last/distance piece was scored, but hoped seal would hold. It didn't: two weeks later, mess again. I had the LR in the local garage for some other work (don't ask) and supplied a new seal race nonetheless, two weeks later, mess again, and diminished braking again. I had checked the axle breather the first time and it was clear. Assuming the installation has been done correctly, seal flush with hub, adequate grease, what else aside from defective parts could cause such a fast seal failure? It's annoying. Mark Perry Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada 1966 Ser.IIA 88 Petrol Hardtop "Yes, I can see quite well over the spare tire." ------------------------------[ <- Message 2 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950625 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: JDolan2109@aol.com Date: Sat, 24 Jun 1995 05:48:50 -0400 Subject: Lucas 25D4 Bill Leacock wrote about the 25D4 distributor. As a result of sheer/shear desperation, I now operate my daily driver LR with a distributor from a 68 Rover 2000 SC automatic. It was either that or cough up the big bucks for a new unit, as I had exhausted all my other rebuild options. It has been performing quite well for better than 15K now. Are the specs you mentioned that substantially different? (could differences be eliminated by switching backing plates, advance weights, etc.?). Maybe these two specific applications are very similar, or I'm just too numb to notice. The reason I ask is that I must eventually replace the distributor in the 2000 SC, and thought I'd just 'pop' in a generic 25D unit (most likely from another Rover product). The best dist. I can come up with will find itself in the LR, but at this point, I'd rather replace one, rather than swap two. Hope this isn't confusing. See 'ya on the old road... Jim '61 88" SW / OD, 1 Bbl weber & 16's (econobox?) LR....quite possibly one of the best machines yet devised! ------------------------------[ <- Message 3 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950625 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sat, 24 Jun 95 12:49:12 From: Andy Dingley <dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk> Subject: Split charge > I want to put a reserve battery into our LR If you look at the workshop manual for a later vehicle or Rangie, you'll see the official way of doing it, with an ignition-activated relay. I don't like this method; it's controlled by the key being turned, not the charge circuit being active. Additionally the use of a relay means that if the relay sticks closed and you try to start the engine, you'll toast the aux battery wiring by trying to pull a few hundred amps from it. A better solution is to use an alternator-controlled relay to switch the aux battery charge circuit on. This only tries to charge the aux battery if the engine is actually running, so it's a better option if there's a chance the vehicle might sit with its ignition key on for some time, but not running. Another useful addition is a Schottky diode in the aux charge circuit. This means that the aux battery can't "back feed" the main battery and cause the "starter fire" problem. Using both of these techniques is maybe slight overkill, but I'd certainly recommend at least one of them. You might like to read the Maplin Magazine #81 (Sept '94) They have a constructional project on quite a sophisticated split charge contoller. It's intended for caravan use, so it covers two "split" circuits, the aux battery and the trailer socket "fridge power" connection. It also allows the fridge to be run from the aux battery. For your application, I think you'd do well to read the Maplin article and wire your camper's main fuseboard up to the "fridge" circuit. This would give you almost everything you could want. Maplin catalogues are available from WH Smiths. -- Andy Dingley dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk ------------------------------[ <- Message 4 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950625 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Sanna@aol.com Date: Sat, 24 Jun 1995 11:38:25 -0400 Subject: Re: Lucas 25D4 >As a result of sheer/shear desperation, I now operate my daily driver LR with a distributor from a 68 Rover 2000 SC automatic. Jim - Good choice. Many years ago with many miles on my IIa, Lulubelle, the little quarter-size coupling that connects the distributor's drive shaft to the cam gearing wore enough to send vibrations up through the distributor. The net effect of this was to break the counter-weights loose so that they were whipped around, dragging on the inside of the distributor housing. Then, a few miles west of Spencer, Iowa, the dang little weights cut the aluminum casting in half, tossing most of my distributor out onto the highway behind me, and stranding Lulubelle and me in front of a Cambell's Soup chicken farm. Well the kindly farmer took us in, and I earned my keep for a week tending to 60,000 hens while I went at getting the LR back on the road. This was 1974, just after British Leyland pulled out of North America and before there was much choice in parts houses. At that time Atlantic British was the only game in town, and they had no distributors. What I finally did was to rob a distributor off a junked TC2000 and fit it to my IIa. That same distributor is still on her, 21 years later and at a third of a million miles. It may not have been an exact match, but the car has always run well, so maybe it'll work for yours too. Tony - ------------------------------[ <- Message 5 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950625 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sat, 24 Jun 95 11:47:00 -0400 From: sommer@tammy.harvard.edu (Michael S. Sommer) Subject: Jimmy's board Does anybody know how to access Jimmy's picture file without the use of the world wide web? Thanks in advance, Michael ------------------------------[ <- Message 6 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950625 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: BobandSueB@aol.com Date: Sat, 24 Jun 1995 14:35:34 -0400 Subject: d90 top hinge/mirror on series L/R I recently read where Someone put the top hinge for a defender on a series L/R to get the better mirrors, but the door opened like a gull wing. A friend just experienced the same thing, and as he was looking at the left door that he had just put it on, he was reading the unopened box for the other side. The problem was it said LEFT on it. So when he put them on the correct side, they fit just fine. They work ok with tie original bottom hinges. The thing here is they are left and right oriented. Bob Bernard LROA/NA Membership. Paradise CA. ------------------------------[ <- Message 7 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950625 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: BobandSueB@aol.com Date: Sat, 24 Jun 1995 14:35:33 -0400 Subject: 109 beats 88 (speed?) One possibility for the different speeds is , what about the final drive ratio? doesn't the 109 hav a higher ratio (lower gear) than the 88? This could have better acceleration but lower top speed. Bob Bernard ------------------------------[ <- Message 8 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950625 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: BobandSueB@aol.com Date: Sat, 24 Jun 1995 14:35:29 -0400 Subject: brake bleeder screws When I am in the brake cylinder area, I use anti seize compound on the bleed screws so they will loosen at a later date. I also put it on the brake drum retaining screws, Bob Bernard ------------------------------[ <- Message 9 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950625 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: ecoethic@rcinet.com Date: Sat, 24 Jun 1995 22:48:25 -0400 Subject: Hy-Speed Transfer Cases Does anyone have any opinions about the modified Series I cases being produced in England that offer a higher-geared high range with low range the same? Are they dependable and quiet? Are they preferable to using the overdrive units? I would appreciate any opinions good or bad. Walter Pokines Tipp City, Ohio 60' Ser II 88' 67' Ser IIa 88' Two Ser III 88's, 1972. ------------------------------[ <- Message 10 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950625 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sat, 24 Jun 1995 20:55:59 +0100 From: cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine) Subject: Re: Hy-Speed Transfer Cases Walter Pokines <ecoethic@rcinet.com> writes from Tipp City, Ohio: >Does anyone have any opinions about the modified Series I cases being produced in England that offer a higher-geared high range with low range the same? Are they dependable and quiet? Are they preferable to using the overdrive units? I would appreciate any opinions good or bad. >'60 Ser II 88" and '67 Ser IIa 88" Contact Mike Hoskins, owner of Mid America Rover, Kansas City, MO, 816-763-3797. Mike imports rebuilt Rover engines and transmissions, etc direct from L.E.G.S. and Allens in the UK, as well as a high speed transfer case dispensing the need for an overdrive. PS- Tell him I sent you! Maybe he will get persuaded to join the net. :) Michael Carradine Carradine Studios Tel.500-442-6500 Architect Architecture Development Planning Pgr.510-945-5000 NCARB RIBA PO Box 99, Orinda, CA 94563 USA cs@crl.com Mercedes-Benz Unimog 4x4 WWW page at: http://www.crl.com/~cs/unimog.html ------------------------------[ <- Message 11 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950625 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sat, 24 Jun 1995 23:34:22 -0500 (CDT) From: David John Place <umplace@cc.UManitoba.CA> Subject: Re: Split charge If someone was going to use two batteries why wouldn't you just use a two battery isolator available from any RV centre. They prevent all the problems of overcharge and dead battries without all the relays and the switches. I think in our part of the country, about $40 would do the trick and you don't have to worry about fires etc. Dave VE4PN ------------------------------[ <- Message 12 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950625 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sat, 24 Jun 1995 23:42:57 -0500 (CDT) From: David John Place <umplace@cc.UManitoba.CA> Subject: Use of Propane Can anyone tell me how the MPG between petrol and propane compare. I expect that if propane has less btu per gallon you would need lots more propane to go the same distance. I have a chance to get a propane conversion unit very cheap and I wondered if anyone has tried it on a Rochester carb just feeding the propane into the air cleaner inlet on the carb. If I installed a gas line cutoff could I have a two fuel unit with little trouble? Dave VE4PN ------------------------------[ <- Message 13 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950625 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Treski@aol.com
Date: Sun, 25 Jun 1995 00:56:39 -0400
Subject: Re: The guy with the foward control etc.
hi mr rover lover! where did you get , and where can i get a FC in
the us? i know many rover fanatics in the K. C. area, including JIM
merriam. any one know him?? or Bill bruce? if so write back!
thnaks and include 110 add ons that you have. Tre
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