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The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

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msgSender linesSubject
1 "Stefan R. Jacob" [1000436Jealous spouse
2 Andrew Grafton [A.J.Graf30Jealous Spouse
3 azw@aber.ac.uk (Andy Woo30 Steering Stabilizers
4 hugh@nezsdc.fujitsu.co.n15Re: The Evil Thing strikes back... (+IBEX II comments)
5 azw@aber.ac.uk (Andy Woo26 Re: INFO
6 "KING.B.P" [BE3_036@civl13 unsubsribe
7 MDAY@NARVAX.NAR.EPA.GOV 20Painting Land Rovers...
8 Alan Richer [Alan_Richer13Rochester carbs on a 2.25 petrol?
9 "John M. Antram" [rewt@M30Re: Rover Envy
10 Hal Leininger [halgram@s15Silicone Fluid
11 Sanna@aol.com 33Re: Rochester carbs on a 2.25 petrol?
12 dbeers@eu.wang.com (Davi21Mail Order Stockists
13 Mike Rooth [M.J.Rooth@lu25Re: Mail Order Stockists
14 jhoward@argus.lowell.edu22Sluggish S III, 88"
15 "Russell G. Dushin" [dus73Re: Galvinization
16 Dixon Kenner [dkenner@em50Re: Mail Order Stockists
17 ScottFugate_Group4t@ctdv40$.02 Worth on '84 RR Purchase
18 Alan Richer [Alan_Richer11Re: Merseyside:
19 jhoward@argus.lowell.edu24Re: Adventure
20 "John R. Benham" [BENHAM73 Montana Rover Run
21 jory@MIT.EDU (jory bell)25Re: called john foers, the ibex guy...
22 al302@lafn.org (William 28land rover models
23 maloney@wings.attmail.co48Re: Merseyside:
24 rover@pinn.net (Alexande23Rovers to Sarajevo
25 rover@pinn.net (Alexande26Various...
26 Craig Murray [craigp@ocs18Re: Paddock
27 "Stephen O'Hearn" [7270024D90 Rear Main Seal Cont'd
28 David John Place [umplac9http address


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Date: 21 Jun 95 04:54:54 EDT
From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com>
Subject: Jealous spouse

> anyone had this problem come up before -  jealous spouse?  Would checking

Uh-oh...  got yourself in a dangerous spot there. I have witnessed several
marriages break up over Land Rovers (_no_ smiley). If the woman doesn't
come to like the Rover herself and preferably gets one of her own to play
with, the situation can quickly get out of hand. At some stage the wife
(same goes for any kind of sig.other actually) will take the precipitated
and unwise step and put the choice before him: "Choose - it's the Rover or
me."  Guess what most men choose...

You have to be very diplomatic now. Just pretend for a while that it's
just another car for you. Fake some criticism now and then (but make sure
the car doesn't hear it, Land Rovers are also very touchy!), like " a BMW
wouldnt've looked bad in the driveway either... and that ugly bump on the
roof ... can't quite get used to it". You *might* be lucky, and your wife,
in her typical female compassion for the neglected and wronged, will
jump to the Land Rover's defence - "Oh come on, it's really quite a nice
car - it's got such a cute nose - and all those pockets I can put my
magazines in" - "Oh, really? Didn't know you liked the car... well maybe
it's not so bad after all (*snigger*)"  - Find a way to infect her with
the Land Rover virus - let her watch nice films featuring Land Rovers
(i.e. *not* Killer Force), get some Camel Trophy videos, give her some
Land Rover promotional merchandise - there are watches, scarves, coats,
beauty cases displaying the Land Rover and Discovery Logos, all very
good taste (and good money). Mention to her which other celebreties drive
Land Rovers - "Hey, did you know Roseanne ..." (i.e. redirect her jealousy
so that she _also_ wants to be seen in one).  That's a long hard way
before you, but it's your only choice. Good Luck!

Stefan
<Stefan R. Jacob, 100043.2400@CompuServe.com>

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From: Andrew Grafton <A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk>
Subject: Jealous Spouse
Date: Wed, 21 Jun 95 11:16:14 BST

I've not had experience of Jealous S.O. syndrome,
but I have observed that once someone has driven
a LR for a while they tend to become far more 
tolerant, even protective, of the vehicle.

Look out, though!  You may have to buy a 2nd LR
so you get a look in!

If it was a Seriesmobile then you could remove
everything at the waistline, windscreen down, and
get your S.O. to drive you to the beach.  Sure to
inspire, as long as the day was fine!

Things could be worse.  I've known couples in a
similar situation over a new *computer*.

"You spend all your time with that _machine_.  You
 don't love me any more."

All the best,

Andy,

Trying to be Gender Neutral. 

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From: azw@aber.ac.uk (Andy Woodward)
Subject:  Steering Stabilizers
Date: Wed, 21 Jun 1995 11:47:00 UNDEFINED

\* Opinions differ as to their safety and whether or not they 
\  prevent the steering from self-centering properly.  Personally

On my 90, the steering damper i lethal in emergency stops. It prevents the 
steering from completely centreing, requiring you to correct. This correction 
almost always grows into a dangerous snaking under full threshold braking.

I took the damper off, and braking was immediately perfect. You just stamp the 
anchors and let go of teh wheel, and it stops in a perfect straight line every 
time. There is a nasty shimmy set up if the inside ffront goes over a pothole 
at high speed on a corner, but simply holding teh wheel at 3 and 9 o clock 
damps this out very effectively.

I infinitely pefer the steering (on raod) with no damper, particularly on 
snow, where instant and precise reactions are required. And off road I prefer 
to be able to feel the ground thru the steering, and just keep my thumbs 
outside the wheel.

But the MOT says that all standard equipment must be in place, so I cant keepp 
the vehicle on the road without the damper :(

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
        Just another roadkill on the Information Superhighway
+++++++++++++++++++++++ None-%er #1 +++++++++++++++++++++++++++

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From: hugh@nezsdc.fujitsu.co.nz
Date: Wed, 21 Jun 1995 22:51:06 +1200
Subject: Re: The Evil Thing strikes back... (+IBEX II comments)

>> broken the shift lever off at the ball).  
>Heh heh. I thought I was the only gorilla who'd managed to pull this stunt
>off...

Ditto.  I just couldn't believe it when it came off in my hand.  Was
parked in the city at the time, of course.

Hugh
ET still in pieces

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From: azw@aber.ac.uk (Andy Woodward)
Subject:  Re: INFO
Date: Wed, 21 Jun 1995 11:51:46 UNDEFINED

>about before taking this 1200 mile trip.What is the best way to break this
>engine in and what is the best oil to change too.

\Drive normally, but avoid extended high revs or heavy loads.  Watch
\temperatures carefully as break-in is tough on the cooling system.  Watch
\for leaks.  If you will be stopping long enough for the truck to cool so you
\can check coolant levels, then monitor those as well as oil levels for any
\unexplained drops.  You might consider Castrol GTX oil, which was the
\highest rated oil in a recent Consumer Reports test.  There is a great
\debate about synthetic oils like Mobil 1.  Some mechanics say it greatly
\reduces engine wear, while others call it a gimmick; I'm going to try it in
\my newly rebuilt engine, but you want to break in with regular (mineral) oil
\for the first 10,000 miles or so anyway.

And change the oil after the first 100 miles. You'll be surprised how much 
crap comes out iwth it.........

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
        Just another roadkill on the Information Superhighway
+++++++++++++++++++++++ None-%er #1 +++++++++++++++++++++++++++

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From: "KING.B.P" <BE3_036@civl.port.ac.uk>
Date:          Wed, 21 Jun 1995 12:49:21 BST
Subject:       unsubsribe

unsubscribe lro-digest
Barry P King
Student
Dept Civil Engineering
University of Portsmouth

BE3_036@civl.port.ac.uk

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From: MDAY@NARVAX.NAR.EPA.GOV
Date: Wed, 21 Jun 1995 8:05:59 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Painting Land Rovers...

In response to J. Howard Fisk's comment about painting -

   You have my sympathy and agreement!  Body work is the worst part of the   
rebuild.  I decided to repaint my body panels while my truck (88 Series III)
was apart.  Including some re-fabricating, welding, filling, priming and
painting, it took me 200 hrs (and that does not include the hard top!).
I kept a record of this for my own amusement.

   If anyone is interested, I used almost a gallon of primer and 1 3/4 gallons
of topcoat (2 part, mixed for spraying). (Perhaps I overdid it! )

Cheers,
Graham N. Day
'73 Ser. III 88

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From: Alan Richer <Alan_Richer.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date: 21 Jun 95  9:26:14 EDT
Subject: Rochester carbs on a 2.25 petrol?

Rumor has it that there is a conversion for a GM Rochester carburetor
on 2.25 L petrol engines. As these are easy to come by, I am to say
the least interested as a replacement for the Solex that I have for my
petrol rebuild.

Any information as to availability of the adapter plate and such would be
greatly appreciated... -Yours, Alan

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Date: Wed, 21 Jun 1995 09:52:44 -0400 (EDT)
From: "John M. Antram" <rewt@Mansfield.greenmtn.net>
Subject: Re: Rover Envy

On Tue, 20 Jun 1995, Roger Sinasohn wrote:

> Ah, another Land Rover widow.  My girlfriend has a double whammy; she's a 
> computer widow and a LR widow.  Half the time I'm sitting down at the computer 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> I see her all the time so she's nothing special, whereas you don't often see 
> old Land Rovers, but that didn't seem to help.)

	I seem to not have this problem; even though I am also checking 
out Mercedes also - my G/F was the one who suggested BOTH the 95' ( going 
to be '96 soon ) Disco we have on order as well as the Benz we just 
bought. She isn't quite as excited as I am about series rovers, but we're 
working on it. Oh, and shes a Computer Science Masters student; I think 
we'll have to subscribe her to the list.

> The solution?  Trade her in on a series 88".  (Think about all the time you 
> could spend with your disco instead, not to mention the money you could spend 
> on the disco instead of her!)  8^)

	I hope we won't have to put lots of $$ into our brand-new disco; 
the payments are going to be large enough. :)

	-John Antram
	MB 300SDL '87 118K
	'95/'96 Berettiz Blue Disco ( on order since Jan 15th, 1995 )

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Date: Wed, 21 Jun 1995 07:06:33 -0700 (PDT)
From: Hal Leininger <halgram@slip.net>
Subject: Silicone Fluid

         I also used Silicone fluid for all the good reasons I just read 
in the last Digest and I prepared for it in the best way and it ate the 
seals. I found black rubber residue in the reservoir and later the purple 
color disappeared. All new lines, flushed and cleaned lines and cylinders 
that didn't need to be replaced. I found out that there are differences 
in Silicone fluids, they are not standardised and different manufactures 
use different additives. I found out too late from the former owner of 
DAP that GM fluid was OK ( he had a customer who replaced his syster with 
silicone and it failed also. Believe what you want but make sure of the 
fluid you use.

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From: Sanna@aol.com
Date: Wed, 21 Jun 1995 10:18:37 -0400
Subject: Re: Rochester carbs on a 2.25 petrol?

>Rumor has it that there is a conversion for a GM Rochester carburetor on
2.25 L petrol engines.

It's no rumor, they've been around for ages.  I put one on my IIa (replaced
the Zenith) in the late '70's.  Since then I wore that one out (wore the axle
hole for the butterfly valve oval so it leaked air in and gas from the
accelerator pump out), and replaced it with a one-lung Weber.  "Newer &
better" replacement carbs have always been touted for the Land Rover,
capitalizing on Rover owner's general insecurity about power & gas
consumption.  "20% more power - better milage!"  ...and those claims may be
right, but the improvements are minimal enough to make the cost not worth it
unless the old carb has to go anyway.

When I bought the Rochester conversion in the late '70's, it were the
recommended improvement.  Then in the '80's the one-lung Weber was the
darling carb for series LR's.  Then that was bad-mouthed in favor of the
double-lung Weber.  Now, talking to the Rover parts houses, they're
recommending that my original Zenith was optimum for the truck.  ...round &
round.

All I know is that after three different set-ups on 'Ol Lulubelle, they all
seemed pretty close in performance and milage, and only the Rochester
suffered in comparison because it wore out much more quickly.

Anyway, that's my 2c. - Tony

-

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Date: Wed, 21 Jun 1995 16:22:26 +0200
From: dbeers@eu.wang.com (David Beers)
Subject: Mail Order Stockists

I was wondering if any of you out there have had any experiences ordering 
spares from any mail order stockists that regulary advertise in LROI 
magazine.  Yesterday I faxed a request for a quotation for some door seals 
and a few other small bits to both JOHN CRADDOCK LTD and PADDOCK MOTORS for 
export to Belgium where I reside.  Within one hour, CRADDOCK had replied to 
my fax with an official looking quotation document.  As of today, I have not 
recieved a reply from PADDOCK, and I know for sure that the FAX got through. 
 Based on initial response, I am going to order through CRADDOCK.  Does 
anyone care to put in a good word for PADDOCK before I commit myself?  I am 
not looking for the cheapest outlet, but rather the one that carries 
near-genuine quality parts at fair prices.

Thanks for your help.

-David
1989 Land Rover 90 TD Hardtop 

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From: Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: Mail Order Stockists
Date: Wed, 21 Jun 95 16:08:04 BST

Others may disagree,but,no,I dont have any good words
for Paddock.I've ordered one or two things from them
in the past,and they seem to manage to get it wrong
too often,or,when I've rung,the dolly on the phone
doesnt know what you are talking about.
Craddock,on the other hand,have always got it right,
at least as far as I'm concerned.I've ordered some
stuff from them,and delivery was quick(they sent 
my watch within the week),and they dont seem to get it
wrong.Typical was the "silly offer" side windows.
Arrived promptly,despite the fact they had run out of
sealing rubbers when I rang to enquire whether they'd
got any windows left.Impressive.If you want an alternative
you could try Derbyshire Land Rover Spares(DLS),I've had
good experience with them,or Merseyside,with whom the
OVLR lads deal.Dixon is in a better position(Horizontal
after 9pm)to comment on them.
Cheers
Mike Rooth

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Date: Wed, 21 Jun 95 09:11 MST
From: jhoward@argus.lowell.edu (James D. Howard II)
Subject: Sluggish  S III,  88"

Regarding your sluggish 88 SIII, the previous owner of my SIII said it
was extremely sluggish when he bought it new.  He did three things to
get it reasonable power.  He installed electronic ignition, replaced
the carb with a Rochester, and replaced the original vacuum retard
distributor with a vacuum advance model.  I suspect the last is the
important one.  I rebuilt the original Zenith Carb, minus it's
throttle prop system, but have yet to install it, so I don't know if
it will run better.  I am getting 15 miles per US gallon, and can
overrev the engine on the interstate when it is level (no overdrive
and 15" wheels).  I think that is pretty good considering the
elevation here is 7000 feet.  I noticed the vacuum advance distributor
is exactly the same as the one on my 67 MGB.  You might try
disconnecting the vacuum line to the distributor, so you only have
mechanical advance, and see if that helps.  Also, see if the
mechanical advance is working.

James

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From: "Russell G. Dushin" <dushinrg@pr.cyanamid.com>
Subject: Re: Galvinization
Date: Wed, 21 Jun 95 12:30:43 EDT

> The previous owner of the pig painted the windscreen frame
> an ugly silver and I want to get it back as close as possible
> to the original finish....Ideas?  Regular paint stripper? or would that 
> harm the galvinization?
> Am I doomed to have to remove the thing and have it dipped?

I have just recently redone two of Nigel's windshields.  One of these
(which came with the boy) was painted a horrendous pea soup green
(like the rest of 'im).  After yanking out the glass (got new pieces
from a glass shop for $30 apiece and subsequently installed them with
fresh butyl "tape", which is more like rope, and some black urethane
sealant) I used regular old paint stripper (the gunky type that can
be used on vertical surfaces...even though the windshield was off)
and a wire brush.  Underneath the green paint was the original 
galvanizing in decent shape.  Neither the wire brush nor the paint
stripper did it any harm at all.

I much prefer the original galvanized look over ANY paint job and over
almost any re-galvanizing I've seen (just doesn't compare....).

As for putting the window glass back in....and the butyl tape vs.
urethane sealant arguement....here's a few comments:

a) I'm pretty sure that originally (SII-SIIa's at least) the window
glass was put in with butyl tape ALONE.
b) I'm told that for safety reasons, the urethane sealant is better-
when it dries it tends to hold onto glass and keep broken bits in
the frame, whereas butyl tends to dry out and crack and fails to
hold onto glass as well.....loose, flying shards of glass can be
the end result.
c) If you have to replace window glass in the future, it is easier
to do this if it was put in with butyl tape than if it was done with
urethane (the urethane sticks to the glass and is tough to remove). 
Also, the butyl, if in OK shape, is more or less reusable if 
absolutely necessary.
d) Urethane probably seals water out better than butyl tape, but if
done correctly, butyl tape does just fine.
e) Butyl tape gives the original look (esp. on the outside of the 
windshield, after the excess is cut off with a sharp blade)....hell,
it is original.
f) If applying new butyl tape...the stuff comes in a roll, the 5/16"
size stuff is what you need....place the tape (again, it is rope-
like) in the window screen *frame* (and not against the glass like
most people will recommend) AND leave the paper strip on.  Then flatten
the round tape out (a hair dryer or heat gun will help soften it
up if it isn't already) against the frame before placing the glass
in it.  It is MUCH easier to do this if you leave the paper side on
the rope....otherwise you'll make a major league mess of yourself
(take this from someone who has....and had black fingers for two
weeks).  Apply a second round of tape to the outer side (ie inside
of the windshield), flatten as before, and put the screw-in framing
back in.  It helps if you use less on this surface, as the framing
can be a bitch to get in if there is too much butyl in there.

I did one of my windshields with butyl alone, and one with butyl
on the outside (of the windshield) and urethane on the inside
(I had run out of butyl and had the urethane).  The latter of these
was the easier job, as putting the framing onto the soft (pre-dried)
urethane was a cinch.

Charlie at RN once suggested to me that urethane was the way to
go, with small strips of rubber on the inside between the framing and
the glass.  I suspect that a combination of safety and ease of 
assembly account for his bias.

rgds,
rd/nige

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Date: Wed, 21 Jun 1995 13:41:38 -0400 (EDT)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.emr.ca>
Subject: Re: Mail Order Stockists

> Others may disagree,but,no,I dont have any good words
> for Paddock.I've ordered one or two things from them
> in the past,and they seem to manage to get it wrong
> too often,or,when I've rung,the dolly on the phone
> doesnt know what you are talking about.

	Can be a bit incompetent on what you order versus what actually
	arrives.  Pain in the ass, but stuff does arrive and the phone
	quote matches the invoice.

> Craddock,on the other hand,have always got it right,
> at least as far as I'm concerned.I've ordered some
> stuff from them,and delivery was quick(they sent 
> my watch within the week),and they dont seem to get it

	Sends the right stuff, but have a problem making the phone quote
	match the invoice/billed amount. Bad experiences over here with
	them.  I'd deal with Paddock any day before Craddock at this
	time.

> wrong.Typical was the "silly offer" side windows.
> Arrived promptly,despite the fact they had run out of
> sealing rubbers when I rang to enquire whether they'd
> got any windows left.Impressive.

	You can drive down the road and punch them out.  What can we
	do?  A cruise missile?  They have been rude and ery unco-operative
	when it came to explaining sudden large jumps in item prices,
	shipping charges etc. to us poor overseas types.

> you could try Derbyshire Land Rover Spares(DLS),I've had
> good experience with them,or Merseyside,with whom the
> OVLR lads deal.Dixon is in a better position(Horizontal
> after 9pm)to comment on them.

	Never dealt with Derbyshire, yet have never heard anything bad about
	them (see Craddock & Paddock)  Merseyside screws up the occasional
	part, but will resend (no charge) the correct item right away.

	Can last beyond 9pm.  If I can't this weekend, we will see how some
	of the other lads here manage at the Birthday Party...

	Rgds,

	Dixon

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From: ScottFugate_Group4t@ctdvns1.ctd.ornl.gov
Date: Wed, 21 Jun 95 15:06:58 EDT
Subject: $.02 Worth on '84 RR Purchase

Concerning Patti Koenig's decision on purchasing the naturally aspirated RR...

Patti,

I assume that this will be your initial Rover purchase.  Make sure the thing 
is in good mechanical shape.  Previous threads on the net discussed what to 
look for. But before you start down the path of Rover (or any other old, 
British car) Ownership, reflect on what you expect from the vehicle.  If 
you're looking for hands-off reliability or cheap and plentiful parts and 
mechanical help, look elsewhere.  The 84 RR ought to give you comparable 
service to any SUV with 100,000+ miles, but parts ARE more expensive, require 
mail order (maybe from the UK for some 84 parts), and mechanics who ever HEARD 
of Rover are very rare, at least in these parts.  On the other hand, owning a 
RR has its own benefits such as ride, off road ability, and the "neat"  
factor.  You can also associate with a great bunch of folks.  I have found 
Land Rover enthusiasts to be most friendly and helpful.  

Consider: 1) Can you do some of your own mechanical work?  2) Is there a RR 
dealer in your location for parts / tech support?  I hear some luxury car 
dealers aren't keen on working on grey market vehicles.  Others are very 
supportive of owners of older vehicles. You might check it out  3) Do you have 
another vehicle to drive if yours is down waiting for parts?  4) Have you ever 
owned any other "unusual" vehicles?  Most Rover owners I know used to fool 
with MGs or BMW 2002s or Triumphs or some other machine before they saw the 
light.  

I own a LR, a RR, and a Jaguar.   I spend more time than anyone else I know 
with a wrench in my hands, but I would rather lay up under a truck with dried 
mud and grease falling into my eyes and mouth than waste my time playing golf. 
 Different strokes...  I hope you decide to buy it; but remember YMMV.

Scott Fugate
1970 IIA 88 (Jeeves)
1989 RR (yet unnamed)

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From: Alan Richer <Alan_Richer.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date: 21 Jun 95 15:21:55 EDT
Subject: Re: Merseyside:

Anybody got a FAX # for them? I am about to buy a 
load of engine parts and miscellaneous tidbits and I'll be damned
if I'm paying RN prices...

    so I'm cheap.... -ajr

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Date: Wed, 21 Jun 95 12:54 MST
From: jhoward@argus.lowell.edu (James D. Howard II)
Subject: Re: Adventure

>   problems. BTW, have you ever heard what the roll-over angle actually is
>   on these things? I talked with a guy who owned a series I and he said he
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
>   think I'd like to test this out though... at least not until I get a
>   roll bar!

Okay, according to the one of the brochures I have on the SIII Land
Rover, under the section about the 88in. Regular Land-Rover:

"It will operate in sand, mud, ice and snow as well as producing a
good turn of speed on the road. (!)  It will tow trailers, ford
rivers, climb a gradient of 1 in 2, and maintain stability on a 45
degree sideways slope."

I don't know how much a hardtop affects this, or how much farther you
can tip it before it actually rolls.  I supposed you could make a jig
to tip it (and catch it) and measure when it rolls.

James

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From: "John R. Benham" <BENHAM@WFOCLAN.USBM.GOV>
Date:          Wed, 21 Jun 1995 14:10:12 +1100
Subject:       Montana Rover Run

Dear LRO's,

    Last weekend, fourteen of us met at Wallace, Idaho for our June 
Rover Run.  Rovers present included a new Avalon Blue Discovery, a 
Range Rover, two 88's, and two 109's (one military) along with a 
displaced Land Cruiser with nothing better to do than follow us!  The 
planned route took us over Lookout Pass to Superior, Montana, then 
south to the St. Joe River pass.  On the way to the pass, we followed 
a ridge top that offered us spectacular views of the snow capped 
Bitterroot Mountains.  At the pass (6,200 ft.), snow prevented 
us from continuing on.  I tried with my 88 along with the Range 
Rover to break through the drifts.  We pushed forward quite a ways, 
but figured at this slow rate it would take us all day to arrive at 
our first destination.  Time to pull out the maps for a change of 
plan...

    We opted for the lower elevation of Hoodoo Pass and broke through 
there without any problems.  At around 4:00 PM, we arrived at the 
Cedars USFS campsite adjacent to the North Fork of the Clearwater 
River.  After setting up camp in light rain, everyone join in to a 
great potluck buffet.  Rich beef stew, spaghetti, and chinese noodles 
were the main courses.  Later I tried some fly fishing, but the River 
was still at high flow (always something!).

    A couple of Rovers went on a successfull firewood expedition.  
That evening, we all sat around the fire telling classic bear 
stories like: "You know the reason why we chose this camp spot, don't 
you?  We knew it wouldn't be crowded from that bear mauling last week, 
but figured he would be gone by now...  Well goodnight, and sleep 
well..."  Some of the Roverers didn't appreciate our sick humor!

    Sunday was warm and sunny.  After breakfast and breaking camp, we 
followed a 4x4 road up to an abandoned fire lookout tower at 6,115 ft. 
Then had lunch at another scenic overview of the snow capped 
mountains.  We opted to play hardball and follow an unmaintained 
trail for 20 miles on ridges and into the St. Joe upper river basin. 
At 6,200 ft., we came across snow drift after snow drift.  I was 
selected as the prodigal son to break through the drifts since I have 
an X-9 Superwinch on my 88.  Essentially, I used the Rover as a plow 
and the winch as the plow's power source!  After a half-mile of this, 
it became apparent that it was a loosing battle!

    So we tried another challenging and scenic route back to Superior 
and then back to Spokane.  A new Rover owner to our group is David 
Clark, a Nautical Archeologist living and currently working in 
Ellensburg, Washington.  He has a great condition 109.  Roy Caldwell 
(Rover in the Rockies - and temporarily off the net) was planning to 
attend, but at the last minute couldn't make it.  This was one of our 
better runs.  The chemistry between everyone really clicked.  And it 
was fun to have a Disco and Range Rover on board with their drivers 
not afraid to try a little challenge here and there - no body damage 
anywhere!

    For a few miles, I traded vehicles with Dr. John Middleton, the 
Range Rover owner.  I think there is a Range Rover in my future - 
if my job situation ever stabilizes!

Later,

John R. Benham - Editor
N.3616 Dowdy Road                 `The Rover Runner'
Spokane, WA  99204  USA               ______
                                     |______\_____
1968 88 IIA Marine Blue      *---   [|_/-\____/-\_|}
  The `BWANA' Mobile           *---    (O)    (O)        

509.747.0692 (H); 509.353.2700 (W); E-Mail: benham@wfoclan.usbm.gov

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Date: Wed, 21 Jun 1995 16:04:32 -0700
From: jory@MIT.EDU (jory bell)
Subject: Re: called john foers, the ibex guy...

>So what's the difference in breakover angle between the 100 and 110.
>(120 vs 140??) Seems like the 100 would be better for the Rubicon.  You
>are going to take it down (or up?) the Rubicon aren't you? :)

According to the Ibex II literature I received:

                          Ibex 240         Ibex 250         Ibex 280
                        mm      inches   mm      inches   mm      inches
------------------------------------------------------------------------
overall length          3235    (127)    3640    (143)    4140    (163)
overall width           1780    (70)     1980    (78)     1980    (78)
overall height          2010    (79)     2010    (79)     2010    (79)
wheelbase               2360    (93)     2540    (100)    2795    (110)
interior width          1620    (64)     1260    (50)     1260    (50)
interior height         1190    (47)     1190    (47)     1190    (47)
interior width (min)    1000    (39)     1000    (39)     1000    (39)
ground clearence        255     (10)     255     (10)     255     (10)

approach angle          85 degrees       85 degrees       85 degrees
departure angle         85 degrees       58 degrees       40 degrees

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Date: Wed, 21 Jun 1995 16:48:37 -0700
From: al302@lafn.org (William Just)
Subject: land rover models

greetings:

i am building a 1/24 th scale british car garage diorama and i was
thinking, "what would any REAL brit car garage have in it?" when it
occurred to me...a LAND ROVER! yeah!!!

so i went out looking for a kit or diecast and came up with nothing.
so, out of desperation, i am asking you (or your list) to please help
me come up with something. i am seeking 1/24 or 1/25 (other scales may
be considered, but not for inclusion in the present scene) land rover
models, any vintage, any wheelbase and model, built or unbuilt kits
(i would prefer unbuilt) or diecast. i am willing to pay a reasonable
price (reasonable is negotiable). i may even have something to trade
for one.

please help

thanks for your time and effort

--
one love
rasta4I
jah bill

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Date: Wed, 21 Jun 1995 20:00:11 -0500
From: maloney@wings.attmail.com (maloney)
Subject: Re: Merseyside:

Alan asked:

Anybody got a FAX # for them? I am about to buy a 
load of engine parts and miscellaneous tidbits and I'll be damned
if I'm paying RN prices...

I'm trying to get my current order from Merseyside sorted out.  I just 
received a large order of engine parts from them - About $500 with shipping 
(shipping was $128).  I still saved just under $600 over ordering it here in 
the US.  Everything was fine except that the pistons varied .004 in size from 
each other.  One was .000 clearance in a standard .020 bore and another was 
negative .001.  A rather tight fit to say the least.  One piston varied in 
size from top to bottom .006!  I called and told them that the pistons varied 
in size and two would not fit in the standard bores at all.  The first person 
said they would replace them with a matched set, then another called back 
(Mike) and said that he had to have the exact dimensions on the pistons before
they could make a decision on exchanging them.  I got the dimensions from my 
machine shop and called them in yesterday.  I'm still waiting.  Tomorrow I'm 
calling AT&T visa to hold payment on the cost of th pistons until I get this 
resolved.  (The reason he said he need the dimensions was that there was a 
standard amount that the pistons could be over/undesize and still be within 
tolerance.  It felt more like I was being jerked around - So much for matched 
piston sets).

I don't want to discourage you, because with an average income US rover parts 
prices can really be a burden, but be sure to specify that the pistons be 
measured, top, center and bottom, and if they are not exactly alike, they'd 
better be pretty damn close.  Although it took 2 calls and a letter to get my 
last order from Craddock shipped ("We're sorry Mr. Maloney, your order is 
right here, I don't know why it wasn't filled") and 4 calles to Paddock for my
first order (Same answer), I might be tempted to try Craddock again.

Would I have rather ordered from one of the US suppliers that I like so much? 
Sure, but $600 is a hefty chunk of change to me.

Good luck, use your Visa or Mastercard, and inspect everything before you pay 
the bill.

Caught between a block and a hard place

Bill

maloney@wings.attmail.com

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Date: Wed, 21 Jun 1995 20:44:59 -0500
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Rovers to Sarajevo

Interesting line today on a AP story filed from Sarajevo.  Seems a 
correspondent was trying to get into the city...

"The Croation port city of Split on the Adriatic is the starting point.  
There, US and European TV networks and other news organizations maintain 
fleets of armored cars for use in Bosnia.  The cars, most painted white, are 
Land-Rovers [hyphen added - the "AP Stylebook" reads 'Land-Rover, with a 
hyphen'] fitted with bullet-proof plates.  The back cabins have no windows. 
The cars are expensive, clunky and slow, but sturdy."

Ain't it the truth....
      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |       Rover Owners' Association of Virginia         |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 804-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    804-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 804-622-7056     |
      *-----------------------------------------------------*

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Date: Wed, 21 Jun 1995 20:45:08 -0500
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Various...

Rick Crider wrote:
>even though the Alfa is Italian, it carries many Lucas parts...voltage
>regulator, generator, wiring harness, lights, etc....

Jeez, the *worst* of all possible worlds! ;-)

Rick goes on to describe how an aging, ill-cared for 109 runs rings around 
his low mileage 88.  My brother had one like that.  We weren't sure how many 
miles it had on it (139,000? 239,000? 339,000?) but it had decals from 
Namibia and places in South America.  Paperwork found in it showed it had 
been the length of Africa *and* South America - twice - each.  Anyway, this 
old beast would just haul butt...much faster than my (then) new 88.  I've 
seen other examples (not counting Robert's Mercruiser/Rover) and have been 
at a loss to explain/understand it.
      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |       Rover Owners' Association of Virginia         |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 804-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    804-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 804-622-7056     |
      *-----------------------------------------------------*

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From: Craig Murray <craigp@ocs.cpsg.com.au>
Subject: Re: Paddock
Date: Thu, 22 Jun 95 11:01:26 EST

I ordered a set of Diesel glow heater plugs for my 2.25 Diesel, and had 
no problems with them at all, although this may be due to the fact that I 
delt with them via letter, and only had a simple order, but from the way 
the order went, I would go through them again.

--
==============================================================================
Craig Murray                                    |       1955 Series 1 86"
LROC of Victoria Australia                      |       2.25 diesel 
LROC of Gippsland Victoria Australia            |       My car is constipated,
email: craigp@ocs.cpsg.com.au                   |       It has not passed a 
                                                |       thing all day!!

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Date: 21 Jun 95 22:45:58 EDT
From: "Stephen O'Hearn" <72700.3262@compuserve.com>
Subject: D90 Rear Main Seal Cont'd

Well, after the dealer's feeble attempt to repair a
leaking rear main seal by replacing the oil pan gasket
(I told 'em but they wouldn't listen) it still leaks. This
morning they owned up to the fact that it must be
the rear main. But they have to order parts, it will take
a week and then two days to do it. I understand the
two days but it's a good thing it isn't gushing and I
can still drive it.

After the front main and now the rear this owner is not
having a good Land Rover Experience, a point I intend
to make with LRNA. Why don't the service people just
listen? If you sound like you might know what you're
talking about it'd be cheaper and less painful in the end.

Trying to think of new mantra... Oh yeah, "dealer's full
of morons."

Stephen

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Date: Wed, 21 Jun 1995 23:14:03 -0500 (CDT)
From: David John Place <umplace@cc.UManitoba.CA>
Subject: http address

Jimmy, can you or someone else post the http sight address for Jimmy's 
Land Rover picture site.  For the life of me I can't find where I put the 
address and I want to see the pictures again.  Mike Maloney, I know you 
probably have it.  Thanks Dave VE4PN

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  END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST 
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