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The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

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msgSender linesSubject
1 Andrew Grafton [A.J.Graf76Steering Stabilizers
2 Andrew Grafton [A.J.Graf30Basic Schoolboy Error
3 "Tom Rowe" [TROWE@AE.AGE50 Re: Silicone Brake fluid
4 "BENJAMIN G. NEWMAN" [7115Re: INFO
5 Dave White [davew@landie52re:bleeding brakes part 2
6 COSTAJ75@SNYONEVA.CC.ONE301971 Land Rover series lll differential
7 Dixon Kenner [dkenner@em12Re: The Evil Thing strikes back... (+IBEX II comments)
8 "BENJAMIN G. NEWMAN" [7123The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest
9 DEBROWN@SRP.GOV 66Disco envy.
10 Patti Koenig [koenig@pue1384 Range Rover
11 Sanna@aol.com 18Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest
12 Sanna@aol.com 26Re: The Evil Thing strikes back... (+IBEX II comments)
13 Charlie Wright [cw117@mo17Re: The Evil Thing strikes back... (+IBEX II comments)
14 DEBROWN@SRP.GOV 41Adventure
15 RICKCRIDER@aol.com 31Silicone: My two cents worth.
16 RICKCRIDER@aol.com 39Sluggish S III, 88"
17 c113408@showme.missouri.32(fwd) FOR SALE -- Range, Land & Rover
18 Alan Richer [Alan_Richer11Re: Speaking of brakes...
19 johnliu@earthlink.net (J23Re: INFO
20 David John Place [umplac9Re: bleeding brakes
21 "Anthony J. Bonanno" [7518Silicone Brake Fluid
22 Roger Sinasohn [sinasohn53Re: Going places
23 Roger Sinasohn [sinasohn26Re: Rover Envy
24 David John Place [umplac22Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest
25 Eric Russell [erussell@c34Re: Silicone Brake Fluid
26 jpappa01@InterServ.Com 33Re: IBEX 250
27 jory@MIT.EDU (jory bell)31Re: IBEX 250


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From: Andrew Grafton <A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk>
Subject: Steering Stabilizers
Date: Tue, 20 Jun 95 9:50:44 BST

I guess a steering stabilliser is the same thing as a steering 
damper?  A shock absorber that joins the steering mechanism to
the frame, preventing large jolts from travelling backwards 
through the steering and dislocating your thumbs.

> I've got a '71 Series IIA  "88 with newer (2 year old)109 leaf springs all
> around.  (Don't ask me why, a PO trick.)  The suspension is pretty darn stiff

Ouch!  Sounds like you could get 'air' off even the smallest
speed bumps.

> Anyway, I can't imagine this is good for the steering components, and I guess
> the minor loss of control could be dangerous in some situations.  So how
> about a steering stabilizer?  British Pacific has them for about $50,
> including the mounting bracket.  Is it worth it?

Righto - I'll paraphrase what was said about a month ago about 
fitting steering dampers;

* There is an insurance problem - the thing isn't original equipment 
  and can easily be identified as such.  Insurance companies may use
  this as an excuse not to pay up come the crunch.

* Make sure the thing is in reasonable condition.  Change it if the 
  fluid falls out or it begins to stick, as one day you may lose 
  the damping effect and vastly over-steer, or the damper will lock
  up solid and you'll vastly under-steer <g>.

* Increasing the load required to pivot the front wheels by removing
  shims from the swivel mech. is an alternative to a damper, but not
  as vicious.

* With one fitted it requires more force to rotate the steering
  'box from the steering wheel end and therefore wear will be 
  increased.  The shock loads transmitted from the wheels will be
  far smaller, though, and therefore the box will last longer.
  There is, however, a larger force on the ball joints in the 
  roadwheel-end of the steering mechanism, which will wear out
  quicker...  I could go on...  I'd ignore this bit if I were you. 

* Opinions differ as to their safety and whether or not they 
  prevent the steering from self-centering properly.  Personally
  I find that the car is more relaxing to drive on a long run
  with one fitted, but that it is a nightmare in town.  Parallel
  parking a 109" with a new steering damper and underpressurised
  cross-ply tyres is not my idea of heaven.

* Problems such as a minor wheel wobble or a tyre 
  bulging badly can go unnoticed so it is best to take the damper 
  off occasionally and do a few miles to check.

Now for a personal opinion;

I'd far rather have one for long-distance off-road use as it is 
makes the whole procedure less tiring.  

I'd also rather have one on-road, as I now have well-developed
shoulder muscles which need exercising!

But - I miss the 'feel' of undamped steering.

If I missed anything or got it wrong, please correct me.

All the best,

Andy
A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk

P.S. If you get one and fit it and hate it then you can always 
take it off.

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From: Andrew Grafton <A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk>
Subject: Basic Schoolboy Error
Date: Tue, 20 Jun 95 10:03:26 BST

Thought I'd publically humiliate myself for the Greater Good;

Just made a *wonderful* roofrack, incorporating lots of 
design features to make it ideal for our expedition.

The main section runs from the rear of the Alpine windows
and overhangs the windscreen by about 18" [to act as a 
sunshade and put the load forwards as far as possible
so it rests on the bulkhead via struts].

Now we can't remove the bonnet of our SIII 'cause it won't
hinge up far enough for the metal tabs to clear the slots.

Yes, I know we'd be OK if it was a SII.  Add this to the
List of Reasons Why Series II Landrovers Are Superior.

Looks like we're modifying the hinges as I'll be buggered
if I'm removing all those mounting bolts everytime the 
engine goes wrong [or modifying the roofrack we just painted]

Embarrassed,

Andy
A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk

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From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date:          Tue, 20 Jun 1995 07:14:15 GMT -0600
Subject:       Re: Silicone Brake fluid

I did quite a bit of research into silicone fluid about 13 years ago and here 
is a synopsis of what I can remember off the top of my head.

To get full advantage (mainly the non-hydroscopic properties) of silicone 
fluid, the brake system must be new or flushed completely and *all* new rubber 
parts installed.
However, you *can* mix silicone and DOT4 fluid, you just lose some of the 
advantage. Therefore, if you lose fluid on a trip, you can add regular fluid, 
it just means that you will have to redo the system when you get home.**Carry 
spare**, unless you live for brake jobs.

There is a new car mfg. in the US that uses silicone, at least they did back 
then, but I forget their name. It is one of those hand built cars that cost 
many dollars. (I suspect that the reason that the Big Three, or others, don't 
use it is cost. And the fact that usually by the time brake fliud becomes a 
problem, the car is out of warranty, so who cares?)

A railroad car mfg. uses silicone fluid in their train brakes, as well as, I 
believe, some heavy equipment mfg. Write or call DOW chem, they will send you 
propaganda on silicone fluid with a list of some bigger users.

If you do use silicone fluid you have to be careful about bubbles. It doesn't 
absorb water, but it is prone to getting alot of air bubbles. Don't shake the 
can; pour it genlty; and if you can, let the fluid migrate via gravity through 
the system. Pumping the pedal as you normaly would to bleed your brakes can 
cause air bubbles.

One drawback to silicone that I'm aware of is that it is said to not perform 
as well in extreme cold as regular fluid. However, it won't rot your brake 
system or any place you spill a little. Oh, and one advantage to Girling 
fluid I discovered is that it is the only thing I've found that would remove 
the NATO paint job from my lightweight and leave the base coat intact.

As I said, this is from memory of research some time ago so "Not responsible 
for errors or omissions etc. etc. etc."
Cheers
Tom

PS I use silicone fluid.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578         Four wheel drive allows you to get
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

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Date: 20 Jun 95 08:50:11 EDT
From: "BENJAMIN G. NEWMAN" <71773.3457@compuserve.com>
Subject: Re: INFO

In a few weeks I am going to pick up my 1966 NADA 109'' wagon from Gary Landers
in the Wash. DC area and drive it home via the scenic route to Orlando Fl. Gary
replaced my aging 6cyl engine with a 4 cyl Turner rebuilt.He has had my LR since
Jan. but that is another story.
Other then changing the oil at 500 miles are there other items I need to know
about before taking this 1200 mile trip.What is the best way to break this
engine in and what is the best oil to change too.
Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
Benjamin G. Newman,MD
Orlando Fl. 

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Date: Tue, 20 Jun 1995 13:19:11 +0100
From: Dave White <davew@landie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: re:bleeding brakes part 2

As mentioned in my last post here is a description of the Gunsons Eezi Bleed:

The system uses pressure from a tyre/tire to pressurise the complete brake or
clutch system.

A pipe is connected to the tyre valve using a standard foot pump
type connector. The other end of this pipe goes to the top of a plastic
"reservoir" bottle that is filled with brake fluid. A pick up pipe then feeds
the pressurised fluid from the bottom of this bottle through a pipe to the top
of the master cylinder reservoir.

The reservoir has a screw top that both the pickup pipe and the air input pipe
are fed through.

The connection to the master cylinder reservoir is achieved by replacing the
normal filler cap with an identical cap that has the pipe connected to its
center.

The MAXIMUM pressure that should be used is 20 PSI. I have found that even at 10
PSI the brakes will be locked on by the pressure.

To bleed the brakes you simply open each bleed screw in turn until air bubbles
stop appearing.

During the connection of the kit I usually do a "dummy run" by pressurising the
system without any fluid in the reservoir bottle. Any leaks in the system can
be very messy when you have hydraulic fluid shooting everywhere :-)

The kit comes complete with a series of caps to fit the majority of master
cylinders including the Land Rover products. The manual describes how to
modify the existing cap if one is not available in the kit.

Judging from the multi-lingual instructions on the reservoir bottle the kit
should be available throughout Europe... 

I contacted Gunsons in the UK and they have a US Distributor:

Samplex Inc.
22249 Vista Logo Drive
Boca Iton
Florida
33248

Tel: 407-482-5776

Dave W.
'72 SIII SWB V8

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From: COSTAJ75@SNYONEVA.CC.ONEONTA.EDU
Date: Tue, 20 Jun 1995 09:47:11 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: 1971 Land Rover series lll differential

Best Wishes!

I'm looking to find a differential for my '71 L/R. Are there any subscibers 
who can help me find an affordable replacement or a whole rear end replete 
with spring shackles?
	A word of caution about the axles on L/R's. There are dimunitive 
axle breather fittings that get clogged and, if not remedied will blow the 
axle seals and (if still not remedied...) the "pumpkin" as well...Mae Copa.
	The L/R (nicknamed "the Mahoot") has been driven mostly as basic 
transportation. In a cold weather envionment the heater has been all 
important to me and I found that there are electrical motor rebuild services 
that can, and have, rebuilt my heater blower motor and also the windshield 
wiper motor. (...at considerably less than it would cost to purchase 
replacement motors.) 
	Another item worthy of mention, is that I discovered early the two 
grounding straps for the electricals. A sluggish starter problem turned out 
to be an improper ground at the bell-housing. Cleaning and re-routing 
cleared the problem up.
	I have always been curious about the hollow frame section that runs 
aligned with the rear of the transmission. It looks as though hanging 
bearings could be installed for a shaft (power-take-off...). Did Land Rover 
manf. many accessory items? What are they and how difficult are they to find?

							AJC

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Date: Tue, 20 Jun 1995 09:54:36 -0400 (EDT)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.emr.ca>
Subject: Re: The Evil Thing strikes back... (+IBEX II comments)

> These two assessments seem to describe what happened to me quite accurately.
> I couldn't move the shifter into the 3/4 slots at all, but 1/2 and reverse
> were fine (really smooth, no noise, etc).

	Yeah, but you drive your stock, unmodified 2.25l petrol Series 
	vehicle at ninety miles per hour down the Interstates all the 
	time... 

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Date: 20 Jun 95 10:10:01 EDT
From: "BENJAMIN G. NEWMAN" <71773.3457@compuserve.com>
Subject: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

--------------- Forwarded Message ---------------

From: 	BENJAMIN G. NEWMAN, 71773,3457
Date: 	Thu, Jun 8, 1995, 8:00 AM

RE: 	The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

When I start my engine I have noticed lately a cloud of white smoke come out of
the exhaust pipe which lasts a few seconds. It does not matter if the choke is
in or out.The engine is a 4cyl. 2.5l
Turner rebuilt with 7500miles on it.Also when I turn off the engine is sometime
continues to run for a sec or two.What seem to be the problem and how do I fix
it?
Benjamin G. Newman
ser.11A 1962 88''
ser.11A 1966 109''NADA wagon
RR 1995 SE 4.0

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Date: Tue, 20 Jun 95 07:36:54 MST
From: DEBROWN@SRP.GOV
Subject: Disco envy.

FROM:  David Brown                           Internet: debrown@srp.gov
       Computer Graphics Specialist * Mapping Services & Engr Graphics
       PAB219 (602)236-3544 -  Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486
SUBJECT: Disco envy.
Matt,

I'm not married, (but have 2 ex-wives). If you can get past that fact,
and take advice from someone that "doesn't quite have it perfected" I'd
like to suggest some things. It seems to me that women in general are
naturally insecure. Questions like "Do you think she's prettier than
me?" are what naturally flows through a women's mind. What you need to
do is nurture that insecurity with LOADS of reassuring comments AND
ACTIONS that tell her "you're the greatest" and "I'm so fortunate to
have you" etc... You might make the comment (in reference to the Disco
scratch) "I'm glad it was just the truck, and not a personal attack on
you, dear..." This may reassure her that she *is* more important than
the Disco.

I recommend the book "Men are from Mars, Women are from Venus" by a Dr.
Gray (I think). A very good book to explain how men and women ARE
DRASTICALLY different in the way the mind thinks.

Try to resist the temptation to admire the Disco (at least in front of
your wife) and focus on your wife. Maybe you can come up with a way to
make it so that the Disco can enhance your relationship with your wife,
like getting to a remote place for an intimate picnic.

I know the way men think, (it's natural for me, being a man) I too
purposely sit in a fast food restaurant facing the window so I can gaze
at my vehicle. Also I like to "gaze" at pretty women passing by,
Hum-vee's, other Land-Rovers, etc.. . but when I'm on a date, or someday
when I get married again (no girlfriend for now, but I *am* hopeful) I
will force myself to sit with my back to the window, and NOT "gaze" at
passing women. It'll take a LOT of self control and self denial, but the
rewards I'm sure will be worth it.

It's not her fault that she's that way, any more than it's your fault
that you're the way you are. It's just the way God made us. Different
from each other. Learn her differences, strengths, and weaknesses, study
her, then build her up with encouragement and reassurance. The rewards
will be well worth the effort. Yes! It WILL take a lot of effort! But
then, what good things don't?

Just an opinion, from one that's been there.

Good luck, keep me posted. I'd like to know how things are going!

"Dr." Dave (the love connection) Brown. ("Sleepless in Phoenix.")

 #=====#         #========#          -------,___
 |___|__\___     |___|__|__\___      |--' |  |  \_|_
 | _ |   |_ |}   | _ |  |   |_ |}    |  _ |--+--|_  |
 "(_)""""(_)"    "(_)"""""""(_)"    ||_/_\___|__/_\_|}
                                       (_)      (_)
 1971 "88" IIa   1970 "109" IIa     1994 Discovery (for sale $30,500)
                                                   (Too hard to "draw")

#=======#                Never doubt that a small group of individuals
|__|__|__\___            can change the world... indeed, it's the only
| _|  |   |_ |}          thing that ever has.
"(_)""""""(_)"                                          -Margaret Mead

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From: Patti Koenig <koenig@puente.jpl.nasa.gov>
Date: Tue, 20 Jun 1995 09:14:49 -0700
Subject: 84 Range Rover

I am almost about to buy a 1984 gray market Range Rover for $7000.
: It has a 110K miles and is not fuel injected.  I realize that parts
: etc. may be expensive.  If anyone has any advice (e.g., its a great
: car, good deal; or don't do it don't do it; can you please get back
: to me ASAP. So far, my feedback has been not to buy - do you agree?
Thanx in advance,
Patti Koenig

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From: Sanna@aol.com
Date: Tue, 20 Jun 1995 12:41:54 -0400
Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

>When I start my engine I have noticed lately a cloud of white smoke come out
of the exhaust pipe which lasts a few seconds.

The white smoke your seeing is oil your burning.  The reason that it lasts
for a few seconds, and only happens when you start up the truck is that oil
seeps down from the head through slack in your valve guides when the truck is
parked and burns off quickly when you start up.  Mine's been doing this
forever, and it doesn't lead to an appreciable consumption of oil.  It is a
bit disconcerting that it is doing this so soon after a rebuild, but it's not
a problem either.

-

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From: Sanna@aol.com
Date: Tue, 20 Jun 1995 12:55:55 -0400
Subject: Re: The Evil Thing strikes back... (+IBEX II comments)

>These two assessments seem to describe what happened to me quite accurately.
I couldn't move the shifter into the 3/4 slots at all, but 1/2 and reverse
were fine (really smooth, no noise, etc).

There is another possibility.  This sounds like a problem that my '70 IIa had
as well, but the fix was much simpler (well it would have been if I hadn't
broken the shift lever off at the ball).  It was repaired without removing
anything but the overdrive from below.

Apparently slack in the main drive shaft (I think that's the one) will cause
the same problem.  Remove the overdrive and at the end of the output shaft in
the transmission there is a nut.  It doesn't look like a standard nut, but it
is what tightens up the drive shaft.  It's a little hard to get at, but by
undoing the locking tab and tightening it (as litle as a 1/8 turn), it took
care of the problem.  You'll have to tighten it with a chisel & hammer.

I didn't do it, my local garage did, so that's why I'm a little sketchy on
the details.  This operation was suggested by Lanny at RN.

-

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Date: Tue, 20 Jun 1995 18:53:50 +0059 (BST)
From: Charlie Wright <cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: The Evil Thing strikes back... (+IBEX II comments)

> There is another possibility.  This sounds like a problem that my '70 IIa had
> as well, but the fix was much simpler (well it would have been if I hadn't
> broken the shift lever off at the ball).  

Heh heh. I thought I was the only gorilla who'd managed to pull this stunt
off... going into reverse, backing out of a stranger's drive... on a bank
holiday weekend.  Needless to say it had to happen in neutral.  The AA guy
thought I was kidding when I called... By the time he got there, we'd
borrowed a neighbor's mig welder and set the carpet on fire, but we fixed
it. 

Charlie

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Date: Tue, 20 Jun 95 11:51:09 MST
From: DEBROWN@SRP.GOV
Subject: Adventure

*** Resending note of 06/20/95 10:08
FROM:  David Brown                           Internet: debrown@srp.gov
       Computer Graphics Specialist * Mapping Services & Engr Graphics
       PAB219 (602)236-3544 -  Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486
SUBJECT: Adventure

> Sounds like you had an adventure this weekend! Even worse than my
> near roll over. Hope you get your Land Rover fixed.

> James

Yes, it was loads of fun! I'm looking forward to getting it fixed SOON!
I have tons of new scratches and even a dent from a large rock! Ya gotta
love those battle scars! In fact, since the 109 is a "project" car,
maybe part restoration, and it already has a rebuilt transmission, I'm
thinking that I'm going to take the trans, transfer case, and clutch out
of it, and slap it in the 88. Then I'll take my sweet time rebuilding
that trans to put back in the 109.

Sounds like the quickest repair to the 88 to get it back on the road. (I
already robbed the track rod and both tie rod ends from the 109 and put
them on the 88.) I just wrote to a parts house in the UK for spares.

Sounds like you had some adventure too! I've seen tracks down the side
of the hills around the cinder lake area (where my parents live). Sounds
like a "white knuckle ride"! At least you pulled through without any
problems. BTW, have you ever heard what the roll-over angle actually is
on these things? I talked with a guy who owned a series I and he said he
had his at an angle of something like 47 degrees and it started to slide
sideways! He said it was on a solid rock surface at the time. Don't
think I'd like to test this out though... at least not until I get a
roll bar!

Thanks for the encouragement.... take care.

Dave (Adventure is my middle name) Brown.

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From: RICKCRIDER@aol.com
Date: Tue, 20 Jun 1995 16:53:42 -0400
Subject: Silicone: My two cents worth.

>From 1992 to mid 1994 I did a nut and bolt restoration on a 1961 Alfa Romeo
Giulietta Spider.   I went through the silicone brake fluid hairpulling
decision and decided to go with the silicone.   I did, however, re-do the
*entire* brake system......pipes,  hoses, shoes,  drums turned, master and
slave cylinders from scratch,  with all new rubber,  etc.  Its only been
about a year now and not the slightest problem to report.   No leaks,  no
fading,  and,  if spilled or splashed,  it won't eat off the *expensive*
paint work.   Incidentally,  upon reassembly of the cylinders,  I did
liberally coat the cylinder walls,  seals,  etc,  with Girlings' Rubber
Grease......the red stuff.   There seems to be no adverse reaction between
the silicone and the rubber grease.   Even though I had more people advise me
against silicone than for it,  I chose the silicone route anyway, and so far
am well pleased.   I do believe part of the success in using silicone *is*
the entire evacuation of the whole system and starting over with virgin
rubber and a surgically clean system in general.     Now,  just a bit of
trivia.......even though the Alfa is Italian......It carries many Lucas
electrical parts......Voltage regulator,  generator,  wiring harness,
 lights,  etc,......   That's all folks!
Rick Crider
Monroe  NC
<rickcrider@aol.com>
'66  S IIA  109"
'73  SIII      88"
'88  Range Rover  (the daily mule)
......and more Alfas than I'm willing to admit.

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From: RICKCRIDER@aol.com
Date: Tue, 20 Jun 1995 16:53:40 -0400
Subject: Sluggish  S III,  88"

Hello most informative folks......

I've lurked here for months.........Thrown in a question now and then and
even a little input.   I have a small input on the Silicone Fluid bit,  but
that's under a seperate heading.

My current worry:   I have a 1973 Series III,  88",  with only 37,000
original documented miles......bought it from the original owner, and it is
in (or so I thought) *top* condition. I have been extremely pleased with it
though I'd always thought it to be a bit sluggish.    When I first got it in
January I performed all the things one does with his new pet.....all fluids,
 points, plugs,  wires, coolant,   etc.......

Now,  just last week,  I purchased a '66 109" ,  with unknown mileage,
 dubious past maintenance,  and a bit uncared for.  It smokes a bit upon
start up,  has all the typical rattles and squeaks, but overall is straight,
 solid and cranks with just a bump of the starter.   I have done absolutely
no maintenance or tuning as of yet,  and it had sat for about two years prior
to last week.   So what bothers me?    It will literally outrun the cr*p out
of my immaculate 88" that I've been so proud of.   I didn't realize the 88"
was so sluggish until I drove the 109'' beast.   Same size engine,  both have
had the GM Rochester Carb conversion by the PO's.....etc,  etc,......any
ideas?   My first thought is to blame it on incorrect timing.......but I'm
open for ideas.....Thanks all.
Rick Crider
Monroe  NC
<rickcrider@aol.com>
'66  S IIA  109"
'73  S III     88"
'88  Range Rover  (My daily mule)
PS: A photo of the '73 88" with myself and the PO was featured recently in
Rover Notes.....the Atlantic British newsletter.........you may have seen me
there.

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Date: Tue, 20 Jun 1995 19:19:27 -0500
From: c113408@showme.missouri.edu (Ray Harder  882-0521)
Subject: (fwd) FOR SALE -- Range, Land & Rover

Path: news.missouri.edu!showme.missouri.edu!c113408
From: c113408@showme.missouri.edu (Ray Harder)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.marketplace
Subject: FOR SALE -- Range, Land & Rover
Date: 21 Jun 1995 00:17:37 GMT
Organization: University of Missouri - Columbia
Lines: 20
Message-ID: <3s7of1$11in@news.missouri.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: showme.missouri.edu

Posting for a friend...       

FOR SALE:  1991 Range Rover Country -- Trocadero Red with
Sorrel Brown leather interior.  Exc. condition.  CD player.
glass sunroof, side running boards, tinted windows.  Priced
to sell @ $19,499/OBO  Call (316)-684-3381 Kansas

FOR SALE:  1966 Land Rover 88 -- Red with Limestone hardtop.
Nice original, rebuilt front end, brakes and suspension.
16" wheels, petrol motor.  Runs and drives fine.  $4,000/OBO
Call (316)-684-3381 Kansas.

FOR SALE:  1970 Rover 3500S -- rare-- Tobaccoleaf with Tan
interior.  Excellent original condition.  Rover V8, ac, auto,
power windows, brakes, steering, new tires, rust free
$4,500/OBO  Call (316)-684-3381 Kansas

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From: Alan Richer <Alan_Richer.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date: 20 Jun 95  9:03:33 EDT
Subject: Re: Speaking of brakes...

I've got the resent mail blues.....again!

My server is resending random pieces of mail. My apologies to the list....

     ajr

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Date: Tue, 20 Jun 1995 16:23:58 -0700
From: johnliu@earthlink.net (John Y. Liu)
Subject: Re: INFO

Benjamin Newman wrote:

>In a few weeks I am going to pick up my 1966 NADA 109'' wagon from Gary Landers
>in the Wash. DC area and drive it home via the scenic route to Orlando Fl. Gary
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
>about before taking this 1200 mile trip.What is the best way to break this
>engine in and what is the best oil to change too.

Drive normally, but avoid extended high revs or heavy loads.  Watch
temperatures carefully as break-in is tough on the cooling system.  Watch
for leaks.  If you will be stopping long enough for the truck to cool so you
can check coolant levels, then monitor those as well as oil levels for any
unexplained drops.  You might consider Castrol GTX oil, which was the
highest rated oil in a recent Consumer Reports test.  There is a great
debate about synthetic oils like Mobil 1.  Some mechanics say it greatly
reduces engine wear, while others call it a gimmick; I'm going to try it in
my newly rebuilt engine, but you want to break in with regular (mineral) oil
for the first 10,000 miles or so anyway.

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Date: Tue, 20 Jun 1995 20:27:52 -0500 (CDT)
From: David John Place <umplace@cc.UManitoba.CA>
Subject: Re: bleeding brakes

Is there any possibility of putting a photo of your invention for 
bleeding brakes on one of the home pages like jimmyp's or similar.  At 
least twice now someone has indicated they have a nice unit but I can't 
seem to picture it in my mind so I can reproduce it.  Thanks Dave VE4PN

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Date: 20 Jun 95 21:33:46 EDT
From: "Anthony J. Bonanno" <75034.3062@compuserve.com>
Subject: Silicone Brake Fluid

	
Just a note to say that I've been using silicone brake fluid in both my brake
system and the clutch hydraulics in my Series IIA for about 15 years.  I have
NEVER had a problem.  And I have never had to replace a wheel cylinder either
since switching to the silicone.  Prior to using the silicone, I had replaced a
wheel cylinder on several occasions.  I highly recommend the silicone fluid.  I
do agree that you better carry a spare supply with you.  Not all auto parts
outlets stock it and it can be a pain to find sometimes.  Also, you can mix it
with other brake fluids, but then you loose any benefit to be derived from using
just the silicone.

Tony Bonanno
Santa Fe, NM  

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Date: Tue, 20 Jun 1995 18:59:48 -0700
From: Roger Sinasohn <sinasohn@crl.com>
Subject: Re: Going places

> sensible, like *travelling* ... all you ever get around to is wallowing in
...
> At least in Europe, most LR owners keep their rigs as full-time hobbies,
> spending more time in the driveway and under the car, than actually driving
> and doing what automobility is all about: Going places!

Actually, I have to disagree.  Last Summer, Rachel and I took INDY 1 North to 
Canada, All the way across as far as Edmonton, then South to Utah, then West 
back home (San Francisco).  (About 4000-5000 miles in all, over 2-1/2 weeks.)

Two years before that, we went clockwise out to Colorado, then south to New 
Mexico, west through NM, Arizona, and SoCal, then north through California 
back to the City.   (about 4000-5000 miles, plus lots of off-highway driving 
in Colorado/Utah.)

The year before that, we were plagued with some technical difficulties, (I had 
just bought it,) so we were only able to spend a week running around Oregon.  
(1500-2000 miles?)

I also took it to Los Angeles in '91 and lived in it for a week during a 
professional conference.  (It was great -- My cost for the week was about $65 
at the campground while even the cheap hotels were about $30/night!)  (About 
1000 miles total)

I've taken it on numerous backpacking trips to the sierras (couple hundred 
miles each way) and drive it around the bay area a fair amount. 

For the record, it's a 1959 sII 109" 3-door, with a Hard Top.  New in '94 was 
a Safari roof (complete with vents to let in the rain) and a roof rack.  I've 
got a bed that I build that slips right in the back (fits two comfortably, 
three if you're friendly -- hmm, sounds like fun!) and cabinets on the other 
side.  Toss in the stove, cooler, etc. (all have their places) and you've got 
a regular home-away-from-home.  

This week, I have to decide if I'm going to take a contract about 110 miles 
south of here.  I'd drive down Sunday night/Monday Morning, stay in the Rover 
all week, then return home for the weekend on Friday night.

Then, of course, there's the *real* long distance heros, Jory Bell, John Hess, 
and Ben Smith (who is currently on his way to Ottawa from Los Angeles (a good 
3000 miles?) for the OVLR Birthday Bash.  

---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Uncle Roger                         "There is pleasure pure in being mad
sinasohn@crl.com                                that none but madmen know."
Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
San Francisco, California

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Date: Tue, 20 Jun 1995 19:00:02 -0700
From: Roger Sinasohn <sinasohn@crl.com>
Subject: Re: Rover Envy

> heard a lot of mechanical tips so far, how about a little help here?  Has
> anyone had this problem come up before -  jealous spouse?  Would checking
> out this movie, and pointing out the Rovers, help this situation? _:)

Ah, another Land Rover widow.  My girlfriend has a double whammy; she's a 
computer widow and a LR widow.  Half the time I'm sitting down at the computer 
to read e-mail about Land Rovers.  She says she wishes I got half as excited 
to see her as I do when I see another Rover.  (I tried explaining to her that 
I see her all the time so she's nothing special, whereas you don't often see 
old Land Rovers, but that didn't seem to help.)

The solution?  Trade her in on a series 88".  (Think about all the time you 
could spend with your disco instead, not to mention the money you could spend 
on the disco instead of her!)  8^)

---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Uncle Roger                         "There is pleasure pure in being mad
sinasohn@crl.com                                that none but madmen know."
Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
San Francisco, California

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Date: Tue, 20 Jun 1995 21:27:28 -0500 (CDT)
From: David John Place <umplace@cc.UManitoba.CA>
Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

The diagnosis of valve stem seals is correct and the best part is it is 
easy to fix.  You don't have to take everything apart.  You can get a 
hose adapter for your compressor that screws into the spark plug hole of 
the valve you want to put the umbrella seal on.  Start by taking off the 
rocker cover.  Take the valve rocker assembly off or slacken off each 
rocker as you do the valve under it.  Use a spring compressor and take 
off the valve springs.  Under each one is the stem of the valve with an 
umbrella on the newer Land Rovers or an O ring on the old types.  Replace 
with umbrella in every case since they work better.  During the removal 
of the springs etc. just pump air into the spark plug hole to keep the 
valve up so you can work on it.  Reverse the procedure to put everything 
back together.  The whole job could be done in two hours and best of all 
you don't have to remove the head.  Dave VE4PN  P.S. If you don't have a 
compressor put rope in the spark plug hole and rotate the piston up 
against it to hold the valve up.  I haven't done it this way but old 
mechanics tell me it is very effective and cheap for the back yard 
mechanic without many tools. 

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Date: Tue, 20 Jun 1995 19:54:22 -0700 (PDT)
From: Eric Russell <erussell@cln.etc.bc.ca>
Subject: Re: Silicone Brake Fluid

I drive a 1969 Rover 2000 TC which I restored 3 years ago and fitted with 
silicone brake fluid.  I completely blew out the brake lines and cleaned 
the brake cylinders, etc. before fitting new seals.  I have had no 
trouble.  I am nearing completion of a restoration on its evil twin ( a 
1970 Rover 2000 TC).  I intend that one car will sit somewhat dorment 
until required as a "lifeboat" when something goes wrong midweek (I'm a 
weekend mechanic if I can arrange it).  I needed brake fluid wich 
wouldn't attract moisture and wreck the brake pistons and cylinders 
after a long down time.  I have dismantled about 5 Rovers of the same 
type and found the same problem due to moisture appearing where the 
piston and the seal meet.  I have enjoyed reading the discussions on this 
topic although this discussion may have developed years ago.  Some of us 
are only 6 month or so newcomers and we weren't part of the original 
discussion.
Thanks.
Eric

erussell@cln.etc.bc.ca
Grade 6 teacher at Ridgeview Elementary School, West Vancouver, B.C., Canada
Secretary of The Rover Car Club of Canada

On 20 Jun 1995, Anthony J. Bonanno wrote:

> To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net

	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 18 lines)]
> just the silicone.
> Tony Bonanno
> Santa Fe, NM  

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From: jpappa01@InterServ.Com
Date: Tue, 20 Jun 95 21:08:15 PDT
Subject: Re: 	IBEX 250

Been reading some comments about the IBEX 250 lately. The BSROA group was able 
to visit Mr. John Foers in his IBEX shop at the Pilgrimage Tour last month to 
see for ourselves.

All I can say is that ANYBODY would be impressed with the build quality and 
space frame of the latest IBEX. It is available in three wheelbases. The 
quality of materials is first rate and the look is unique without being 
*kit-carish.* 

John uses D90 guts... why not? The IBEX offers unique chassis/body attributes 
(wheels really at the corners) to offer all of the D90 off-road qualities with 
an approach angle of 85 degrees!!! Also a similar departure angle on the SWB 
model. Unique rear seating differentiates the vehicle as well.

I would feel very comfortable with an IBEX in the club ranks - even though it 
is not a proper Landy. John could have based it on anybody's drivetrain... He 
chose the best.
Look for photos of same in the next issue of the newsletter...

Cheerz
Jim - now completely mad... and loving it!
`67 IIA 88 hybrid 5.0L
`67 IIA 109 hybrid 5.0L
`68 IIB FC 110 Diesel
`70 3500S
`90 Range Rover County
`93 D110

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Date: Tue, 20 Jun 1995 23:24:24 -0700
From: jory@MIT.EDU (jory bell)
Subject: Re:    IBEX 250

Jim (et al),

>Been reading some comments about the IBEX 250 lately. The BSROA group was able
>to visit Mr. John Foers in his IBEX shop at the Pilgrimage Tour last month to
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
>quality of materials is first rate and the look is unique without being
>*kit-carish.*

What about the comparison between the original and the newer ibex (did you
get a chance to see both). I would be interested in both mech/functional
differences, and appearence (althouhg I already have strong opinions about
the latter, as you probably noticed ;)

>John uses D90 guts... why not? The IBEX offers unique chassis/body attributes
>(wheels really at the corners) to offer all of the D90 off-road qualities with
>an approach angle of 85 degrees!!! Also a similar departure angle on the SWB
>model. Unique rear seating differentiates the vehicle as well.

I certainly agree with the wisdom of using rover hardware.

Can you describe the unique rear seating arrangement?

Any info is appreciated, as the promotional literature is a bit sketchy.

Thanks,
jory

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