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msg | Sender | lines | Subject |
1 | colin@bajin.demon.co.uk | 16 | What Colour( Color?) |
2 | vortex@worldaccess.nl (B | 61 | Re: Brake Fluids |
3 | vortex@worldaccess.nl (B | 2 | [not specified] |
4 | fradekk@ibm.net | 22 | Re: Functional Rollbar or Cage |
5 | "Walter C. Swain" [wcswa | 109 | Re: What Colour( Color?) |
6 | "WILLIAM L. LEACOCK" [7 | 18 | Recent Digests |
7 | "WILLIAM L. LEACOCK" [7 | 13 | RE: Misc |
8 | "Stefan R. Jacob" [10004 | 16 | Re: IIa vs. III |
9 | Roger Sinasohn [sinasohn | 25 | Re: Land Rover Security ????? |
10 | JFisk1120@aol.com | 30 | Re: STOPPING MISS GOLIGHTLY |
11 | David John Place [umplac | 26 | Re: What Colour( Color?) |
12 | David John Place [umplac | 12 | bleeding brakes |
13 | JAMES_CIRBUS@HPATC2.desk | 17 | Re: 88 FOR SALE in Pgh. |
14 | jhoward@argus.lowell.edu | 54 | Stupid stunts in a Land Rover |
From: colin@bajin.demon.co.uk Date: Sun, 18 Jun 1995 13:27:28 +0000 Subject: What Colour( Color?) I've got a 1974 109 that is now ready to be painted. The trouble is I can't decide what colour to paint it. It has been green, blue and is currently red. So I've decided to let you folks decide the colour. Please e-mail me with your suggestions. Also (UK only) can anyone tell me where to get paint, or what the original green and blue colours are called? Apologies if this message has already appeared, been having trouble with my e-mail. ------------------------------[ <- Message 2 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950619 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sun, 18 Jun 1995 16:04:18 +0200 From: vortex@worldaccess.nl (Bert Palte) Subject: Re: Brake Fluids Easton Trevor wrote on June 17th: >I am contemplating changing the brake fluid in Miss Golightly's system to >silicone as I believe it is much better for long term survivability and I >intend to keep her for a long time. This is a topic thas has been discussed in the classic car movement over a long period of time, now. It is almost as controversial as the use of the new "miracle" PTFE [=Teflon (R)] engine oil additives. FWIW, my personal opinion: 1. I know a guy who had been driving his classic car (an MGB, in this case) during his holiday. The brake fluid had been changed to silicone. At some time, he lost some of the the brake fluid (there was a leak somewhere). It proved *very* difficult to obtain replacement silicone fluid elsewhere in Europe along the highway. (It is my understanding, as it was his understanding, that you cannot replenish / mix with the more common ethanol-based brake liquids). So, be prepared to expect trouble then (or, take a spare can with you...). 2. As far as I have understood, there is not a *single* car manufacturer who has approved the use of silicone based brake liquids. There still isn't *any* new car that uses this type of fluid. When buying oil or antifreeze or whatever automotive chemicals, I always look carefully for approvals on the can (e.g. Ford, Daimler-Benz, MIL-..., whatever...). (Doesn't need to be Rover, actually). It is just that car manufacturers tend to be VERY careful in examining every product for their application. IMHO, these liquids shoud not be used as long as the two problems indicated above have not been solved. (I'm really looking forward to that moment, however. Advantages of the stuff are, that it is not inflammable and that is not hygroscopic.) Any comments? Bert Palte (for Dave: PAoLPS) ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----------------------------- Company E-mail: vortex@worldaccess.nl Vortex Balanceertechniek B.V., Soest, The Netherlands Home E-mail: ....... (coming soon) University of Twente E.E. Alumni 1964 Ser II a 88 Petrol, ex-British Army, Germany. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------[ <- Message 3 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950619 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
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From: fradekk@ibm.net Date: Sun, 18 Jun 95 19:38:55 Subject: Re: Functional Rollbar or Cage Can only help you with the address of Safety Devices: Safety Devices Ltd. Regal Drive Soham Cambridgeshire CB7 5BE UK Tel. +441353624624 Fax. +441353624824 According to my info they should manufacture internal and external cages for series II (2) //---------------------------------------------------------------------------- // Frank (Disco 93) ------------------------------[ <- Message 5 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950619 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sun, 18 Jun 1995 12:58:57 -0700 (PDT) From: "Walter C. Swain" <wcswain@wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us> Subject: Re: What Colour( Color?) On Sun, 18 Jun 1995 colin@bajin.demon.co.uk wrote: > Also (UK only) can anyone tell me where to get paint, or what the > original green and blue colours are called? I think this has application in the UK. It be interesting to know if > You're pretty much on your own when it comes to paint colour/color. None of us will have to live with what ever hideous colour/color you end up selecting. Perhaps as a good joke you will get a lot of recommendations to paint it that marvelous pastel pea soup green that was common in the late 1960s. In the meantime the following was posted in the not too distant past. The same questions keep coming 'round. = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = Walter C. Swain | wcswain@wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us Davis Community Network | Davis, California | 1967 109 Series IIA Safari SW (red) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- >From CXKS46A@prodigy.com Date: Tue, 20 Dec 1994 17:21:15 EST From: MR ALEXANDER P GRICE <CXKS46A@prodigy.com> Subject: Aluminum painting Several people have asked questions about painting Birmabright as of late, so I thought I'd pass along a few part numbers and whatnot. Most all of the part numbers are DuPont; any DuPont paint jobber should be able to mix up Rover colors in single quart cans. (If anyone has any other #'s, pass them along.) Bronze green 38500 Mid grey 38501 Sand 38502 Marine blue 38503 Pastel green 38504 Limestone 38505 Poppy red 38506 Burnt grey 38508 Davos white 38514 Mexican brown 38519 Cameron green 38520 Almond yellow 38521 For "DuLux" alkyd enamle, append a "D" to the paint color number. Add an "L" of laquer, or "A" for Centari acrylic enamel. Other part numbers: Dulux hardener 77s Aluminum cleaner 225s Aluminum conversion coating 226s "Variprime" two-part primer 615s Engine enamel "Detroit Diesel Alpine Green" #225 (made by Tempo) Automotive paints are quite sensitive to temperatures: use the following thinners/retarders. If you must paint at higher temps, add an anti-wrinkle agent: DuLux Thinner Temp Range Centari Thinner Temp Range #8508 below 65 F #8034 below 70 F #3812 65-75 F #8022 70-85 F #3864 70-80 F #8093 above 85 F #8522 above 80 F The DuLux cannot be clear-coated, though the Centari can be protected in this fashion. DuLux can be mixed for brush application (like for roofs) rather than spray applicatio, though. DuPont "Corlar" two-part epoxy is another primer alternative. As it is intended for aircraft, it is only available in gallon cans, and in grey. Better living through chemistry... *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"-----* | | | Sandy Grice, Rover Owners' Association of Virginia | | E-Mail: CXKS46A@prodigy.com FAX: 804-622-7056 | | Voice: 804-622-7054 (Days) 804-423-4898 (Evenings) | | 1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA, 23508-1730 USA | *------------------------------------------------------* >From William.Grouell@Eng.Sun.COM Date: Tue, 20 Dec 1994 14:48:38 +0800 From: "William L. Grouell" <William.Grouell@Eng.Sun.COM> Subject: Re: Aluminum painting A few more scraps of information, and it seems to coorrelate; Dupont Centari Ditzler Glasurit Limestone 38505A 46251 Marine Blue 38503A 16514 ROV504 Poppy Red 38506AH ROV303 Light (Pastel) Green 38504A ROV605 Sand ACF/004 or 26291 Bronze Green 38500A 46451 LEY637 Arctic White I don't know why my numbers have "A" suffix. R, bg PS; Ain't it odd, the way old discussions get going around, as new folks come into the group. We did this paint thing last October, and the third hinge thing was just revived again, the other day. ------------------------------[ <- Message 6 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950619 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: 18 Jun 95 19:20:19 EDT From: "WILLIAM L. LEACOCK" <75473.3572@compuserve.com> Subject: Recent Digests Jory -- If your gearbox problem is traced to broken springs on the synchro hub, these can be changed with the gearbox in situ, it is a tedious job which requires a lot of fiddling with long nose pliers, I personally use some surgical pliers that are from a redundant operating theatre. It is however a lot less work than removing the gearbox to replace the springs. Sean, re your request for a roll bar/ cage, if you are considering a UK source then I recomend Betaweld, tel 011 44 1302 842682/ 351264, he makes a wide range of types and styles for the whole range of Land Rover products Sorry for raising the pressure on mail boxes regardind front wheel bearing lubrication. Good side slope driving also helps the oil to flow into the bearings, on one side anyway !!! Regards Bill Leacock Limey in exile. ------------------------------[ <- Message 7 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950619 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: 18 Jun 95 19:35:30 EDT From: "WILLIAM L. LEACOCK" <75473.3572@compuserve.com> Subject: RE: Misc The screw required for the removal of the brake drum is a 3/8 inch British Standard Whitworth thread on early motors and a #/8 inch Unified National Course thread on the later motor, either thread will fit each other, technically bad since ther thread angle on the Whitworth is 55 deg and 60 deg on the Unified. If you look around the engine compartment there are plenty of 3/8 ( 9,52 mm ) dia screws that you could use. regards Bill Leacock Limey in exile. ------------------------------[ <- Message 8 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950619 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: 18 Jun 95 20:14:21 EDT From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com> Subject: Re: IIa vs. III > I'm almost embarrassed to admit how many years it was before I > realised how perfect the lip on the underside of the metal dash > is for opening beer bottles. They just don't make em like they Actually, the old-style metal radiator grill of pre-1985 Range Rovers also makes a great bottle opener - only draw-backs: You must take off the grill from time to time to remove the caps, and of course you have to get out of the car to open the bottle... I agree, S.II is better. Stefan <Stefan R. Jacob, 100043.2400@CompuServe.com> ------------------------------[ <- Message 9 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950619 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sun, 18 Jun 1995 17:44:55 -0700 From: Roger Sinasohn <sinasohn@crl.com> Subject: Re: Land Rover Security ????? > > Has anyone any tips on how to make the vehicle more secure as regards > > entry? > In my opinion, locking the car just means that the thief will do more > damage - if the car has no visible radio then there is less chance of > someone breaking into the car. I agree completely. I never lock my car doors. Why pay for a broken window? > Here is my thief deterent plan: I intend to find the cheapest, crappiest, In terms of theft of vehicle, I have a battery switch with an "off" position, and it can be locked in that position. I can also switch the fuel switch to the nuetral position. And then there's the steering wheel lock, etc. --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Uncle Roger "There is pleasure pure in being mad sinasohn@crl.com that none but madmen know." Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates San Francisco, California ------------------------------[ <- Message 10 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950619 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: JFisk1120@aol.com Date: Sun, 18 Jun 1995 21:18:28 -0400 Subject: Re: STOPPING MISS GOLIGHTLY Greetings to Trevor; long time no type. I will ask my shop about the merits of the silicon based fluid for Miss Golightly. The things which I immediately think of are compatability of fluid and mechanical components. I have had a number of RR (Rolls Royce) and a very common problem with those systems is the various elements contained within the fluids. Miss Golightly may have a very delicate system, however, I rather doubt it. (There I go dangling again). With regards to a flushing agent, I do know that advice from a friend who is a Ferrari racing officianado worked very well in a '77 RR LWB. He recommended denatured alcohol, which he said was safe to the seals and mechanical components of every system. It worked like a charm on the '77 and was very reasonably priced. You understand, of course, that this is not the advice of a mechanic, merely that of an experienced checkwriter. I wish I had the skill and aptitude for mechanical diversions, but alas I do not. I wish you and Miss Golightly the best of braking as you approach those perilous roads which lie near the Rover Inn. By the way, I will send you along a packet of information on Branson, MO (and if anyone else on the digest would like information pertaining to our region, please don't hesitate to email). You may just want to bring the Mrs. "south of the border". J. Howard Fisk Springfield, Missouri ------------------------------[ <- Message 11 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950619 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sun, 18 Jun 1995 20:34:34 -0500 (CDT) From: David John Place <umplace@cc.UManitoba.CA> Subject: Re: What Colour( Color?) Take a look in Jimmy's picture list for the up coming calendar and see if you like the green with sand I painted my Rover. It is factory and everyone who sees it likes the color. The top is sandstone as are the wheels and the body is light hunter green. By the way for those contemplating the brake change over. If you can wait about 4 weeks, I will have a complete set of UAP NAPA books fro a store and I will be able to give you all sorts of info on bore size, part numbers and all that sort of stuff. I am selling my restored 88. Winch, safari rack, two tops, new engine, new front end parts, new trans bearings, new interior, new paint job etc. $7700 FOB Winnipeg in Canadian Dollars. That should make it like $5,000 U.S. You can see it on Jimmy's board in its soft top version and maybe he has added the picture with safari rack and side tent. I would like to sell it and get a Ser III or another Ser II for re-building. I like the mechanical stuff and don't really drive a lot anymore. I have a full Land Rover in a box for parts. Finally, if any one lives in the 508 area code, a fellow named Al Richer wants me to send him 4 glow plugs. I have them for him but I can't seem to get in touch with him. Could someone give him a call at 251-0669 and let him know I have the plugs and will trade the item he has. Thanks Dave VE4PN ------------------------------[ <- Message 12 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950619 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sun, 18 Jun 1995 20:41:57 -0500 (CDT) From: David John Place <umplace@cc.UManitoba.CA> Subject: bleeding brakes Did anyone catch the Shade Tree Mechanic program today? They showed a very nice brake bleeding tool that uses the air compressor to bleed the brakes all from one corner of the vehicle. The price of $175 I think they said was a bit steep for back yard types, but for you millionaires it would be a nice addition to the shop. They also showed a disc brake conversion kit that looks like it has possibilities for Land Rovers. Dave VE4PN ------------------------------[ <- Message 13 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950619 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: JAMES_CIRBUS@HPATC2.desk.hp.com Date: Sun, 18 Jun 95 21:42:00 -0400 Subject: Re: 88 FOR SALE in Pgh. Russell, Please forward my name and address to the individual in the Pittsburgh area, as I am interested in the 88. I can be reached at the numbers below. Jim Cirbus Sunbury, OH (H) (614)965-9851 (W) (614)478-6252 ------------------------------[ <- Message 14 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950619 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sun, 18 Jun 95 22:02 MST From: jhoward@argus.lowell.edu (James D. Howard II) Subject: Stupid stunts in a Land Rover Don't ever go off road with a bozo who goes by the name Mike Lord. He will suggest stupid things to do that sound exciting but will get you in a lot of trouble. We were exploring the forest roads west of Flagstaff, when we drove past a volcanic cinder cone which had been turned into a quarry (I suppose to build I-40). The west half of the cone was gone. Half an hour later, we ended up on a dead end road at the top of this cinder cone. Rather than turn around and go back, Mike suggests we just drive down the front, where all the cinders are exposed, back to the road we were on earlier. It was about a 200 foot drop to the road, and the path we would take started at about a 20 degree angle. We could see where it got steeper half way down. We drove down to that point, and stopped. I got out with my clinometer, and found the angle increased to 30 degrees, and further down, to 45. Well, my dealer brochure for my 72 88 SW says it can climb and descend 49 degrees, and travel across 45 degree slopes, so I figured we were okay. The only hitch was, about 88" from the bottom, the slope increased to more like 60 degrees. Just before that, however, if we turned right, the slope went to 20 degrees. So, at Mike's goading (he was jumping up and down wanting to try), I decided to go for it. We made it to the last 88 inches without incident, but when I tried to turn right, the Land Rover wouldn't. It slid in the loose cinder, only going slightly to the right. I put it in reverse, which backed us up, but also caused the Land Rover to swing so it was pointed down more, toward the steep part. The only thing I could do now was go straight down the steep part. We were still pointed slightly to the right. I decided to reverse a little more to get us straighter, but when I did this, the left front wheel went off the edge and we started going down. I slammed it into first and hit the gas, which got us down quicker. I don't know what angle we were at now, but it felt like we were pitched down about 50 degrees, and rolled to the left 45. Just as it seemed the right side wheels were going to leave the cinder, the left front wheel rolled onto the flat ground, and we were safe. I don't know how close we came to rolling over. We might have been a long way from it, or we may have just barely stayed on all four wheels. I think we would have been alright if we had rolled, as the cinder is relatively soft, but that is an experiment I'd rather not try. I now have a new perspective on what a Land Rover can do, but I don't want to try anything that crazy again. I can't help wondering things like, if the gas tank on the right side were not full, would we have gone over. Level trails to you all, James ------------------------------[ <- Message 15 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950619 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
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