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The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

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msgSender linesSubject
1 Easton Trevor [TEASTON@D20Brake Fluids
2 Andrew Grafton [A.J.Graf39Re: Dual Circuit Brakes
3 gpool@pacific.pacific.ne29Re: Ford conversions
4 "Tom Rowe" [TROWE@AE.AGE22 Dual master cyl. for Series
5 Mike Catlin [mjcatlin@wh20Re: Ford conversions
6 "S.Vels Christensen" [ve17Re: Removing brake drums
7 "S.Vels Christensen" [ve33RE: Misc
8 "S.Vels Christensen" [ve24Re: Vandalism
9 "Anthony J. Bonanno" [7512Smith's Oil Pressure Gauge for sale.
10 JDPUTNAM@aol.com 18Yakima Rack


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From: Easton Trevor <TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA>
Subject: Brake Fluids
Date: Sat, 17 Jun 95 07:17:00 DST

I am contemplating changing the brake fluid in Miss Golightly's system to 
silicone as I believe it is much better for long term survivability and I 
intend to keep her for a long time. Two questions:
1. I just read a short snippet about a high performance fluid (non silicone) 
in 4Wheel Dive and Off Road. Here they said silicone is not recommended for 
4x4s. Does anyone know why and should I not replace my fluid?

2. If I go ahead I have to completely flush the system. Any suggestions on 
best way to flush? I don't really want to use the silicone fluid for 
flushing, not at $40 litre.

Thanks in advance for the tips

Trevor Easton and Miss Golightly

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From: Andrew Grafton <A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: Dual Circuit Brakes
Date: Sat, 17 Jun 95 16:58:49 BST

> > >From: Alan Richer <Alan_Richer.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
> > >Date: 15 Jun 95  8:51:14 EDT
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
> > >master cylinder that will bolt up to a Series IIa brake pedal? The thought
> > Late series III's were fitted with a dual circuit, servo assisted, brake system.
 I've got one and it certainly would fit a Series IIA, perhaps with
 minor modifications to the wing if the car is RHD (the vacuum assist
 diaphragm chamber is big and clumsy).
 
 Two points;  Firstly, the system gets its vacuum from the air 
 inlet manifold and does so by creating a restriction with a
 butterfly valve mounted in an add-on section of manifold.  On our
 machine this leads to even worse emissions than is normally
 expected from a 2286 diesel...
 
 Secondly, I've experienced how badly the brakes work without 
 vacuum assist (like -they don't-) when I had removed the above-
 mentioned valve/restriction assy so the car would pass the MOT.
 
 Scary.  The oil-bath handbrake worked better.
 
 If I was retrofitting such a system then I don't think I'd 
 want the Landrover SIII version.  I'd try for one with its own 
 vacuum pump which worked reasonably even if there wasn't any 
 vacuum!
 
 Maybe there isn't anything else which is an easy fit, though...
 
 All the best,
 
 Andy
 A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk
 

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Date: Sat, 17 Jun 1995 09:19:56 -0700
From: gpool@pacific.pacific.net (Granville B. Pool)
Subject: Re: Ford conversions

>Date: Wed, 14 Jun 1995 14:14:35 +0059 (BST)
>From: Charlie Wright <cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk>
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 16 lines)]
>+44 (0)1223 333970 telephone                    Univ. of Cambridge
>+44 (0)1223 333992 telefax                      Downing Street, Cambs.
>cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk                        CB2 3EH, England

Charlie, 

Being as you are in England, maybe you could get an answer where I did not
(by mail) from Steve Parker Land-Rovers.  SP makes an addapter to fit the
3.0-liter Ford V-6 to LR gearboxes.  I asked if that same adapter would fit
the Cologne-built 4.0-liter V-6 used in the Explorer.  Stands to reason that
it would.  But, as I said, I got no answer from Steve Parker.  

Even better would be if Ian Ashcroft were to make a conversion to fit the LR
transfer box to the Ford automatic gearbox.

Cheers,

Granville B. Pool, Redwood Valley, CA
<gpool@pacific.pacific.net>
(707)485-7220 (home)   (707)463-4265 (work)
'73 Land-Rover 88, more LRs, Austin Champ, BMW 3.0si, Peugeot 505 Turbo...

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From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date:          Sat, 17 Jun 1995 14:37:10 GMT -0600
Subject:       Dual master cyl. for Series

On Friday Russell G. Dushin wrote,

>ps. Dave (4VPEN guy) has in the past posted that the dual master off of an
>AMC car (forget which-he'll chime in) is a cheap bolt on alternative to
>LR master cylinders.

I'm using a Jeep dual master on my SIII lightweight. When I had to 
replace my girling the $65 price of the (I forget the make?) from the 
local parts store beat the hell out of the $200 girling unit.
I'll get the part number and make and post on Monday.
Tom

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578         Four wheel drive allows you to get
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

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Date: Sat, 17 Jun 1995 21:07:29 -0700 (PDT)
From: Mike Catlin <mjcatlin@wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us>
Subject: Re: Ford conversions

On Sat, 17 Jun 1995, Granville B. Pool wrote:

>...a conversion to fit the LR transfer box to the Ford automatic gearbox...

Granville,

Marks 4WD Adaptors (Australia) manufactures a transfer case adaptor that 
allows the Ford C4, C9 or C10 type automatic transmission to bolt to the 
Land Rover transfer case.  They also make an adaptor to fit the Ford 
toploader 4 speed to a Land Rover transfer case. 

Their address is 22 Sinclair Rd., Dandenong 3175, Victoria, Australia.  

Mike <mjcatlin@wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us>
72 series III SWB

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Date: Sat, 18 Jun 1994 05:05:52 -0600 (CST)
From: "S.Vels Christensen" <velssvch@inet.uni-c.dk>
Subject: Re: Removing brake drums

In message Thu, 15 Jun 1995 07:29:06 GMT -0600,
  "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>  writes:

> inadequate. So I use a  grade 8 cap screw about 1-2 inches long (I keep
> Tom Rowe

I havent found a screw that fits (i'm from Metric Land). What thread is
a grade 8 screw?

tks

sv/aurens

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Date: Sat, 18 Jun 1994 05:05:54 -0600 (CST)
From: "S.Vels Christensen" <velssvch@inet.uni-c.dk>
Subject: RE: Misc

In message 11 Jun 95 19:59:21 EDT,
  "WILLIAM  L. LEACOCK" <75473.3572@compuserve.com>  writes:
> S V Aurens   Removing tight track rod ends  - with the track rod removed
> from the vehicle, slide the clamp well back from the end, place the end
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)]
> end of the rod, there is about an inch of plain portion first to provide
> the clamping area for the clamp.

I have already changed all 6 ends. I got a new track rod before i started,
just in case. Yes i did hammer the rods from the end and abou 3" down.
Worked a fine rythm for about a minute each. Then i checked the way of the
thread and hammerd on the opposite side of the moving stud. I hammered and
banged and hit and smashed...
...ahh, that felt good. After half a turn they came off by hand.
Banging one clamp all the way over the rod will remove gunk and rust
providing a better grip when adjusting.
Why did i not use a vice? Well the road side is my shop. But i'm looking for
a large vice to bolt on a "T" setup of two poles to mount in the back. Then
i can do the relay. Got the bushes already...

Next time the boss is on my neck i'll go home and bang off the last end of
the old track rod, clean it and put it plastic.

BTW,-looking at various posts it seems to be the month where all LRO's
change the rod ends.

rgds
Soren Vels/Lawrence of Arabia

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Date: Sat, 18 Jun 1994 05:05:44 -0600 (CST)
From: "S.Vels Christensen" <velssvch@inet.uni-c.dk>
Subject: Re: Vandalism

From: maddeng@apple.com (gary madden)
Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

:RE: Defender 90 vandlalism

:For overnight parking, padlocking the bonnet makes sense, but there doesn't
:seem to be any convenient way to do this.  I trust that the veterans weld
:some type of hook to the bonnet and use a chain?

On my 109 there's a bracket and twister (i wonder what these are called in
english) set on the bonnet and radiator plate. OE as found on the lids on
the seat box and the rear tool box. I use system padlocks for the bonnet and
the petrol cap, so i only have to try out one key each time ;-)

I still need to find a way to secure my H2000 beams. They are extremely
popular here.

sv/aurens

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Date: 18 Jun 95 01:33:58 EDT
From: "Anthony J. Bonanno" <75034.3062@compuserve.com>
Subject: Smith's Oil Pressure Gauge for sale.

Smith's electrical oil pressure gauge from 71 IIA.  No sending unit, just the
gauge.  Appears to be in good condition (will read full scale when shorted to
ground).  It's the  2" round type with white numbers on black  with light,
bracket, etc.  A little paint peeling around bezel.  Anybody want it for $ 10.00
plus postage ??  No sending unit, just the gauge.

Tony

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From: JDPUTNAM@aol.com
Date: Sun, 18 Jun 1995 01:33:20 -0400
Subject: Yakima Rack

Has anyone out there had any experience with a Yakima bike rack and standard
series IIa hard top.  I have train to use the towers and tower extensions but
the towers pushed against the roof.  I also purchased the top mout brackets
which require drilling through the top.  The problem with that solutions is
that I will end up with exposed 5/16" nuts sticking through the head liner.
 I can only imagine a passanger impelling his skull in the back of my rover.
 If you have any ideas, please let me know.  I'm getting tired of not being
able to transport my bike.

Thank you very much
John Putnam
Portland, OR

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