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msg | Sender | lines | Subject |
1 | dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu | 20 | Re: Swivel to hub lube |
2 | Charlie Wright [cw117@mo | 25 | Re: 1973 "new" 88 |
3 | Lloyd Allison [lloyd@cs. | 14 | Ibex II |
4 | Dave White [davew@landie | 18 | Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest |
5 | "Stefan R. Jacob" [10004 | 16 | K&N Filters - where? |
6 | chrisste@clark.net (Chri | 26 | Chickened Out |
7 | Charlie Wright [cw117@mo | 18 | Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest |
8 | Russell U Wilson [ruwst+ | 20 | FOR SALE... '69 88 Pgh area |
9 | "Sean McInerney" [smcine | 20 | Getting the FAQs |
10 | lenagham@bachman.com | 21 | Re: K&N Filters |
11 | "Sean McInerney" [smcine | 42 | Noisy Gas Guzzler |
12 | Mr Ian Stuart [Ian.Stuar | 30 | Re: Noisy Gas Guzzler |
13 | Alan Richer [Alan_Richer | 11 | Re: Braking... |
14 | "John R. Benham" [BENHAM | 28 | Rovers in Films |
15 | JAMES_CIRBUS@HPATC2.desk | 26 | POR-15 report |
16 | "Elam, Gerry" [ElamGe@is | 44 | Keyless system |
17 | Jeff Gauvin [jeffg@miner | 22 | ARB compressor in D-90 |
18 | "Russell G. Dushin" [dus | 29 | Re: SIItoSIII brakes |
19 | ccray@showme.missouri.ed | 40 | Re: 1973 "new" 88 |
20 | rlarson@lsil.com (Rick L | 32 | Re: ARB compressor in D-90 |
21 | "Russell G. Dushin" [dus | 21 | Re: SIItoSIII brakes (fwd) |
22 | hugh@nezsdc.fujitsu.co.n | 14 | Re: IIa vs. III |
23 | "Stephen O'Hearn" [72700 | 46 | D90 Parking Brake Problem/Fix |
24 | rover@pinn.net (Alexande | 14 | Theft deterrents |
25 | jpappa01@InterServ.Com | 31 | Re: Miscellany |
26 | Russell Burns [burns@cis | 22 | D-90 Returns |
27 | JFisk1120@aol.com | 25 | NEW 109 |
28 | David John Place [umplac | 7 | Re: SIItoSIII brakes |
29 | gpool@pacific.pacific.ne | 30 | Re: Fabric Doors On Rover |
From: dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au (Daryl Webb) Subject: Re: Swivel to hub lube Date: Fri, 16 Jun 1995 17:38:10 +0930 (CST) Tom writes: > from inside the hub to one of the holes for the driving member bolt. I know of what you speak as I have a set that has done service on both of my IIa and stage 1 (originally off of an early III 109 6cyl) Over here in OZ they seem to be the exception rather than the rule. Anyone know what vehicles this type of hub was fitted to and when they stopped fitting them???? Changing the hub oil occasionally beats repacking bearings anyday.... -- Daryl Webb (dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au) ------------------------------[ <- Message 2 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950617 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 16 Jun 1995 11:27:07 +0059 (BST) From: Charlie Wright <cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk> Subject: Re: 1973 "new" 88 On Thu, 15 Jun 1995, David John Place wrote: > at the least and break at the worst. If you have the time I have taken > the crank bearings down and oiled them before a start up. I just bought I wouldn't risk pulling the bottom end for this. As you say later, crank it over without spark. The best solution I've come up with is pull the plugs out, squirt some oil in each cylinder (possibly put a little on the valve gear if you have easy access), crank it (on a new battery or from a jump-lead) like that for a few turns. This gets the oil circulating. You should get oil to the valve gear and crank without putting any dangerous pressure on the crank bearing surfaces. If you fire it up right away, the force is orders of magnitude higher on the un-oiled surfaces. > want to wreck it before I even got it started. While you are at it drain > the cooking system and put in new rust inhibiting antifreeze. You don't ^^^^^^^ Could this be Freudian? Charlie ------------------------------[ <- Message 3 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950617 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 16 Jun 1995 20:30:23 +1000 From: Lloyd Allison <lloyd@cs.monash.edu.au> Subject: Ibex II Foers have released the Ibex II - I have a picture on the wwweb at http://www.cs.monash.edu.au/~lloyd/tildeLand-Rover/Foers/ I'll add the prices and technical details "soon". On air cleaners: I recall a mag' article some years ago that claimed that the oil-bath air cleaner was best at removing large particles but not at removing small particles. Lloyd ------------------------------[ <- Message 4 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950617 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 16 Jun 1995 13:54:26 +0100 From: Dave White <davew@landie.demon.co.uk> Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest >From: Alan Richer <Alan_Richer.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com> >Date: 15 Jun 95 8:51:14 EDT [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)] >Speaking of brakes, is there anywhere a commonly-available double >master cylinder that will bolt up to a Series IIa brake pedal? The thought Late series III's were fitted with a dual circuit, servo assisted, brake system. If you can get hold of a complete pedal assy. from one of these, they are a straight replacement for your existing pedal assy. I don't know if the master cylinder can be used with your existing pedal assy. but it is a standard Girling part. Dave W ------------------------------[ <- Message 5 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950617 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: 16 Jun 95 09:03:29 EDT From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com> Subject: K&N Filters - where? ok, now that we've heard all about the marvels of the K&N filters I have just one more question: Do they make filters that could fit/replace the RR Efi pot? Remember, the Efi is very touchy about any tampering with the air intake/air flow etc, all has to remain pretty well balanced the way it was before. And, are these things sold in Europe? Has any of the UK folks seen them for sale or advertised? (Ok, those were two questions...) *If* they actually improve mileage significantly, at the price of gas here I'd be willing to clean the damn thing every single day... Stefan <Stefan R. Jacob, 100043.2400@CompuServe.com> ------------------------------[ <- Message 6 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950617 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 16 Jun 1995 09:25:26 -0500 From: chrisste@clark.net (Chris Stevens) Subject: Chickened Out Thanks to all for the advice on using "easy outs" to extract sheared bolts from the cylinder head. The overwhelming majority of responses said, "don't do it." One, from Nate Dunsmore, even gave me success percentages to expect: 33.33 percent. Given those odds...and the fact that once I took off the manifolds I managed to shear another bolt...I chickened out and went to a machine shop. Good news though, closer inspection revealed that the sheared stud was not in the cylinder head...it was simply missing in action. The other sheared stud was one of the three at the front pipe and exhaust manifold. Once the replacement studs arrive, and I figure out a way to wire up the muffler (the stupid bracket attached to the muffler rusted through, causing all this grief), I'll be back on the road. Thanks again for the advice. Chris Stevens 1969 SRIIA 88" SW BCG Corporate Communications Towson, Maryland, USA (410) 583-1722 (410) 583-1935 (FAX) chrisste@Clark.net ------------------------------[ <- Message 7 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950617 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 16 Jun 1995 15:17:47 +0059 (BST) From: Charlie Wright <cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk> Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest On Fri, 16 Jun 1995, Dave White wrote: > Late series III's were fitted with a dual circuit, servo assisted, brake system. > If you can get hold of a complete pedal assy. from one of these, they are a > straight replacement for your existing pedal assy. I don't know if the master I don't suppose anyone knows of a non-servo (for us oil-burners = lack of vacuum) dual master? I guess you could fit a second master cylinder in parallel and attach both to the pedal assy. by a rig... but you'd double the pedal pressure and shorten the travel doing that... Come to think of it, I usually have more travel (air?) than I need anyway, hmmmm. Charlie ------------------------------[ <- Message 8 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950617 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 16 Jun 1995 10:26:32 -0400 (EDT) From: Russell U Wilson <ruwst+@pitt.edu> Subject: FOR SALE... '69 88 Pgh area '69 88 for sale.. Condition: just about what you would expect for this area of the country... it needs a "frame off". The body is good, LHD, No goodies i.e. winch, overdrive, or tropical roof. The good news is that The engine, body and interior anre all in good shape and are all that is keeping the soul of this beast alive. This belongs to a friend and I'm posting as a favor... NO I'm not selling my beast (it's a '67).... Price: I think he will listen to ANY offer at this point. Same old story....he bought it to restore and found that he didn't have to time...so he is looking to move this thing.. let me know if any of you are interested. Russ ------------------------------[ <- Message 9 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950617 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: 16 Jun 1995 10:00:17 U From: "Sean McInerney" <smcinerney@mail.nrgn.com> Subject: Getting the FAQs REGARDING Getting the FAQs Thanks for the many responses to inform me that finallt I had posted my messages to the correct address. Also....the many responses to my queries have been helpful as well.......I'll try the scrunchies. I have only had 'The Beast' a couple months, so I am sure to have plenty more questions. By the way......'The Beast' has become my daily driver (more relaxing to drive) so I am trying to ditch my 94 Integra GS-R sedan....any takers on the East Coast? I already have another Rover in mind to buy as a "spare" when I finally sell my car. Can't hand-crank an Acura anyway. Many thanks, Sean C. McInerney 1963 SIIa 88" HT "Friends call it the Beast." ------------------------------[ <- Message 10 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950617 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 16 Jun 95 10:48:26 EST From: lenagham@bachman.com Subject: Re: K&N Filters I've had a K&N filter on my 87 RR EFI for a couple of years now and to be honest I saw no improvement in either performance or mileage (and yes it has been cleaned and reoiled with the K&N kit). There was an article in the LRO magazine or Land Rover World some time back where they were tuning a RR on a dynamometer, one of the things they tried doing to improve performance was to add a K&N filter but it showed no improvement so they took it back out. For those still interested I will look back through my "bills" over the weekend and see if I can retrieve the K&N part number for the filter that fits the EFI engine and post it next week. Cheers Mike Lenaghan ------------------------------[ <- Message 11 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950617 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: 12 Jun 1995 16:54:46 U From: "Sean McInerney" <smcinerney@mail.nrgn.com> Subject: Noisy Gas Guzzler Subject: Time: 4:53 PM OFFICE MEMO Noisy Gas Guzzler Date: 06.12.95 I am trying to send this message for the third time. Please excuse any repeats. I have a 1963 88" with basically no interior excepting the seats......so it is pretty loud at highway speeds. However, I have zeroed in on at least one major unnecessary contributor to my impending deafness.....the high range 4WD selector. At speeds above 55 mph, the rattle from the selector contributes as much as 50% to the total noise produced......inside the Rover, at least. How might I remedy this? The spring seems to provide adequate tension for the knob to be functional and the linkage seems alright (but I have not gotten out the heavy-duty degreaser and investigated extensively). Does the spring need to be under a decent amount of tension while in 2WD? Is it possible to have too much tension (i.e.: impossible to engage 4WD High)? Also, my Rover has a basically stock 2.25l petrol engine with the PVC system and a single-barrel Weber carberator (I think it originally resided in a post-'65 RHD 109" judging by the serial number.). Aside from leaking some oil (I think mostly from the front main seal......no blue smoke and the clutch works fine), it runs very smoothly and has a lot of power (for a '63 Rover). My problem is milage, which is between 10 and 12 miles per gallon....especially considering that I have only the single 12 gallon tank. A lot of this may be explained by my primarily highway driving in the 55-70 mph range (anything above 70 mph, however, is deafening enough to drown out the previously mentioned rattle.). There is some oil on top of the head....not abnormally huge amounts, but a nice wet coating (I think from the fitting between the PCV valve and the pipe from the crankcase). Could there be some occult gasoline mixed in with this seemingly benign oil?.......or where could all my gasoline be going? 11 mpg just seems awfully low when some people are claiming 20 mpg with twin-carbed V8s. Help...save my fuel bill. Thanks in advance, Sean C. McInerney 1963 SIIa 88" HT "Friends call it the Beast." ------------------------------[ <- Message 12 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950617 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Mr Ian Stuart <Ian.Stuart@ed.ac.uk> Date: Fri, 16 Jun 1995 15:55:22 +0000 Subject: Re: Noisy Gas Guzzler > is pretty loud at highway speeds. However, I have zeroed in on at least one > major unnecessary contributor to my impending deafness.....the high range 4WD > selector. At speeds above 55 mph, the rattle from the selector contributes > as much as 50% to the total noise produced......inside the Rover, at least. Yup - I get it on my 109 as well. The rattle is from the verticle shaft clattering against the plate over the gearbox. My temporary fix was to get an old shoe-lace and push it down over the shaft and then replace the spring over the, now condomed, shaft. Careful mainpulation of the shoelace will allow you to fold half an inch back down the outside of the spring and this will stop the shoe-lace from sliding down thew shaft. I don't know how long this will hold up - I've only had it on for a week.. > where could all my gasoline be going? 11 mpg just seems awfully low when > some people are claiming 20 mpg with twin-carbed V8s. Help...save my fuel > bill. i've got a Zenith 36IV on a 2.25. The carb has a flat spot & badly need overhauled - but I'm getting 200 miles to a tank (anout 14mpg) Try getting your engine tuned, and overhaul the carb too. ----** Ian Stuart (Computing Officer) +44 31 650 6205 Royal (Dick) School of Veterinary Studies, Edinburgh University. WWW sites: Work -- <http://www.vet.ed.ac.uk/> Personal -- <http://www.tardis.ed.ac.uk/~kiz/> ------------------------------[ <- Message 13 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950617 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Alan Richer <Alan_Richer.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com> Date: 16 Jun 95 11:37:13 EDT Subject: Re: Braking... My mail server (for lack of a better word) has managed to lose it several times in past days. If anyone has commented on fitting double brake masters to a IIa, please copy me on it again...thanks. P.S.: Charlie, did you measure your wipers? -ajr ------------------------------[ <- Message 14 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950617 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "John R. Benham" <BENHAM@WFOCLAN.USBM.GOV> Date: Fri, 16 Jun 1995 08:40:00 +1100 Subject: Rovers in Films Dear LRO's, Yesterday, a colleague here at work gave me several video tapes. One stood out since it had an African theme. Yes, `Emanuelle in Africa' does have some Rover scenes in it! This 1991 fluff features a green, 2-door, RHD, Range Rover with brush bar and roof rack. Also seen is a safari equipped 109 5-dr. The 109 has red and yellow diagonals painted on the rear quarter panels - typical of that for Land Rovers in Kenya. If you can put up with the no-plot, dubbed, bad acting, you might see a few Rover scenes! It is `R' rated for aRlful! Later, John R. Benham - Editor N.3616 Dowdy Road `The Rover Runner' Spokane, WA 99204 USA ______ |______\_____ 1968 88 IIA Marine Blue *--- [|_/-\____/-\_|} The `BWANA' Mobile *--- (O) (O) 509.747.0692 (H); 509.353.2700 (W); E-Mail: benham@wfoclan.usbm.gov ------------------------------[ <- Message 15 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950617 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: JAMES_CIRBUS@HPATC2.desk.hp.com Date: Fri, 16 Jun 95 13:31:00 -0400 Subject: POR-15 report Hi all, Things have been a bit busy lately, so I need to do a little catching up. I have had some past experience with POR-15. The company actually markets many products designed for the auto restoration market. One product, "Metal Ready", is an etching compound that leaves the usual coat of zinc phosphorus on the surface needing painted. The other product, POR-15, appears to be an epoxy paint. I have had excellent results with this product on the frame of an FJ-40. It held up exceptionally well to the Midwest winter salt. On the few occasions that I managed to scrape it off the frame, the rust that formed was unable to travel under the finish any further. I was able to spray the stuff onto the frame without thinning it. (pressure @ 90 psi.) The only drawbacks that I have seen to date, is the fact that UV light causes the black to discolor a bit. That, and the fact that if you get any on you, it's days or weeks before it finally comes off. Jim Cirbus 94 D-90 ------------------------------[ <- Message 16 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950617 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Elam, Gerry" <ElamGe@iseschpo.sch.ge.com> Subject: Keyless system Date: Fri, 16 Jun 95 12:49:00 edt In the folders of AOL's Car & Driver Section, the following advice was given to extend the range of the keyless system on the Discovery: ------------------------------------------------------------- Remove the UNDERDASH hush panel cover on the PASSENGER side. There are -3- panel pops holding the panel in. One vertical, which is right of the radio console, and two horizontally, which if you lay on the passenger floor carpet and look up, you will see them both. Remove them both by using a PANEL popper or a combination of pliers and a flat head screwdriver. They are removed by PULLING them out with FORCE. Don't worry about breaking them, you can replace these from any auto shop by buying them on the "HELP!" lineup, they usually don't break, but if you live in a cold climate---it may. Anyway, after you remove the clips, pull down the cover, you will see a BLACK module to the far right. It will have a 1/4 inch or so of thick black cable leading to it. Pull on this cable, the end leading away from the module should pull out REALLY easily (it did in mine--in fact my cable was exposed and coming out of the hush panel). After you got the end out, run it up the side DASHBOARD and up onto the windshield area, place the remainder of the cable in front of defroster under the bottom of the windshield. That's it! Put everything back together and test range, test before and after. You WONT have to be right next to the darn truck to unlock you doors now, I can unlock mine from inside the house. -------------------------------------------------------------- Question: Are there any reasons not to do this operation? I check his instructions and it does indeed extend the range by a factor of about 10. Is it detrimental to the vehicle in any manner? And yes, compared to other problems on the post, this one is insignificant ... but a real handy solution!!!! Regards, Gerry '95 Discovery N 33 19'06.9" W 112 03'28.0" ------------------------------[ <- Message 17 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950617 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Jeff Gauvin <jeffg@minerva.ncrmicro.ncr.com> Subject: ARB compressor in D-90 Date: Fri, 16 Jun 95 11:47:33 MDT Thanks for your response to my tire-rub question; I had my D-90 in the shop for an oil change yesterday, so I had the mechanic adjust the steering stop for me. Next question: Where is the best place to mount an ARB air compressor in a Defender? Engine compartment? Under one of the front seats? I plan to use the compressor for both tire inflation and locking differential operation, if that makes any difference. Thanks in advance. -- Jeffrey J. Gauvin email: jeff.gauvin@symbios.com Symbios Logic Inc. Voice: 719-573-3563 1635 Aeroplaza Dr. FAX: 719-573-3824 Colorado Springs, CO 80916 ------------------------------[ <- Message 18 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950617 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Russell G. Dushin" <dushinrg@pr.cyanamid.com> Subject: Re: SIItoSIII brakes Date: Fri, 16 Jun 95 14:23:50 EDT > Late series III's were fitted with a dual circuit, servo assisted, brake system. > If you can get hold of a complete pedal assy. from one of these, they are a > straight replacement for your existing pedal assy. I don't know if the master > cylinder can be used with your existing pedal assy. but it is a standard Girling > part. Two slight mods are (may be) required: 1) The slot in the footwell where the brake pedal comes through needs to be lengthened towards the rear of the vehicle just a tad. (The late IIa/III brake pedal enters the footwell at a slightly different angle.) 2) If you do go servo assist, you may have to put a slight dent in the inside top of your bonnet (the frame for the bonnet has a slight indentation on SIIIs around where the servo sits). I've seen a few SII/SIIas with this "dent", but could very well have been bonnets off of SIIIs. rgds, rd/nige (single master stock setup-CB type) ps. Dave (4VPEN guy) has in the past posted that the dual master off of an AMC car (forget which-he'll chime in) is a cheap bolt on alternative to LR master cylinders. ------------------------------[ <- Message 19 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950617 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 16 Jun 1995 13:37:57 -0500 (CDT) From: ccray@showme.missouri.edu Subject: Re: 1973 "new" 88 On Thu, 15 Jun 1995, Andrew Steele wrote: > Back in the garage, closer investigation reveals that the brakes and clutch > are without any fluids. Three brake line leaks found after refilling. Clutch > still has no effect when refilled and bleeder opened. i would *want* to redo the brake system completely on an $800 car, so this isn't necessarily bad news... check out www.missouri.edu/roverweb > childs magic rock growth collection to shame. Electrically dead except for > emergency flashers. Body & top faded, but other than some dents in good shape > except for the side panal riviots over the rear wheelwell. i bought the biggest sears diehard made and it was still shorter than the battery clamps. i would do that first and try to avoid the cranking. get some acid that converts rust to some sort of stabalized iron -- makes it black, too. replace some of the bolts and convert the others -- will make that vehicle look a *lot* better. > Third and final question (for now): In prepartion to turn the engine and see > if its seized (that's true - I really don't know) I am going to shoot a > mixture of rust penentrant and oil into the spark plug holes. Is there > anything else I should do first? (Anyone in the Dayton area care to stop by > the house with a crank for a few hrs?) it was my understanding that in feb-95, that motor cranked over... > Thanks for your patience, I know this was a long and rambling post. > if its seized (that's true - I really don't know) I am going to shoot a > mixture of rust penentrant and oil into the spark plug holes. Is there good to hear from you. lets get that rover back on the road (off road, too) --------------------------------------------------------------------- Ray Harder Columbia, Missouri 314-882-2000 --------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------[ <- Message 20 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950617 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 16 Jun 95 13:39:35 PDT From: rlarson@lsil.com (Rick Larson) Subject: Re: ARB compressor in D-90 >From: Jeff Gauvin <jeffg@minerva.ncrmicro.ncr.com> >Subject: ARB compressor in D-90 >Next question: Where is the best place to mount an ARB air compressor >in a Defender? Engine compartment? Under one of the front seats? I >plan to use the compressor for both tire inflation and locking >differential operation, if that makes any difference. I've had good luck with it installed above the the left front wheel on the inner fender behind the head light. A extension tube is needed to make the air chuck accessable for filling tires. Rubber isolater mounts are used to keep the noise down. Apparently the fender makes a great amplifier for the noisy, vibrating compressor. Power is tapped off the altenator connections. The mechanic who put it in was doing his 4th D90 install so he pretty much had it down. I was really impressed with how it worked out. The noise and vibration from an underseat compressor mounting could be real annoying, it is definitely noticeable in mine but not a big deal. It works awesome on the trail. Off trail I'm going from 20 -> 35lbs of air in about 2.5 - 3 minutes per tire. -Rick Richard Larson LSI Logic Corporation (408) 433-7149 ------------------------------[ <- Message 21 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950617 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Russell G. Dushin" <dushinrg@pr.cyanamid.com> Subject: Re: SIItoSIII brakes (fwd) Date: Fri, 16 Jun 95 17:19:16 EDT > > 2) If you do go servo assist, you may have to put a slight dent in the > > inside top of your bonnet (the frame for the bonnet has a slight indentation [ truncated by lro-digester (was 12 lines)] > You do have to cut the top of the wing to allow the servo to > fit in there... DoOP!....Dixon reminded me you've gotta cut that wing up a tad as well. Sorry folks, that was the obvious modification. To be clear, the dent is not in the bonnet itself, just in the rearside frame for the bonnet (that runs horizontally across the rearside of it). Subtle dent, for sure, but I *suspect* it needs to be there (ymmv). thanks, Dixon, rd/nige ------------------------------[ <- Message 22 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950617 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: hugh@nezsdc.fujitsu.co.nz Date: Sat, 17 Jun 1995 10:06:24 +1200 Subject: Re: IIa vs. III >Let's get down to basics..... REAL ROVERS HAVE METAL DASH'S. I'm almost embarrassed to admit how many years it was before I realised how perfect the lip on the underside of the metal dash is for opening beer bottles. They just don't make em like they used to. Hugh ------------------------------[ <- Message 23 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950617 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: 16 Jun 95 20:15:04 EDT From: "Stephen O'Hearn" <72700.3262@compuserve.com> Subject: D90 Parking Brake Problem/Fix Tom Stevenson wrote: >This sounds like a bit of a dodgy explanation from the dealer. For a >start, I thought the US 90s had discs all round. Also, the LR emergency >(parking) brake operates on the transmission, not on the wheel brakes. plus Tre M. wrote: >HI all you rover fans! I am looking to share info on accessories for >defender 110s and 90s. also my rover is "clunking" ion 1st gear, and it > feels like the emergency brake is a little harder to pull up. Is this a >potential prob???? The parking brake is a drum type cable actuated setup mounted to the transfer case's rear output shaft. It can fail to release sufficiently such that the shoes can bind or catch the drum during rotation. This is very noticable at slow speed, e.g. coming to a stop, but may actually be occurring all the time causing a potentially damaging high temperature condition shortening the life of the transfer case's rear seal. This binding can happen especially after some exhaust/ running heat is absorbed and during hard left turns (from my experience). If you notice the parking brake engages sooner or is harder to apply in conjunction with a juddering or "clunkning" this is very likely the cause. The parking brake is also prone to self-tightening over time. The fix is to back off the parking brake lever adjustor. This can be done quite easily using a 17mm socket on the adjusting bolt located at the front bottom of the parking brake drum assembly (the non-rotating part) I agree that this should not be the case, that it should work when adjusted to spec, but LRNA knows all about it and there's apparently no fix other than careful adjustment. Stephen +--------------------------------------------------------------------------+ | Stephen O'Hearn 1994 LAND- Tread Lightly | | El Segundo, CA, USA DEFENDER -ROVER on Public and | | 72700.3262@compuserve.com 90 The Best 4x4xFar Private Lands | +--------------------------------------------------------------------------+ ------------------------------[ <- Message 24 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950617 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 16 Jun 1995 21:19:24 -0500 From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice) Subject: Theft deterrents A guy I know installed an *eight track*. Last time thieves broke in, they *left* two tapes! *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----* | A. P. (Sandy) Grice | | Rover Owners' Association of Virginia | | 1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730 | | E-mail: rover@pinn.net Phone: 804-622-7054 (Day) | | 804-423-4898 (Evenings) FAX: 804-622-7056 | *-----------------------------------------------------* ------------------------------[ <- Message 25 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950617 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: jpappa01@InterServ.Com Date: Fri, 16 Jun 95 19:39:16 PDT Subject: Re: Miscellany RE: DOWNEAST VII RALLY The BSROA newsletter has been hung up at the printer's the past week and will dodgey getting OWL'S HEAD info. to the membership with any significant time remaining until the event.... A group will convoy from Boston on Friday, 30 Jun. A contingent will be staying at the Camden Hills campsite. If interested in joining the convoy - call Club line. If interested in camping at Camden Hills - phone 207-236-3109 for reservations Mon-Fri 9-3. Fees per site is 18.05/night if booked via phone, or 16.05/night if made on site. Call Club line with any questions and call will be returned. See ya there! Jim - now completely mad... and loving it! 1967 2A/88 5.0L hybrid 1967 2A/109 5.0L hybrid 1968 FC/110/2B/Diesel 1970 3500S 1990 Range Rover 1993 D110 ------------------------------[ <- Message 26 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950617 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Russell Burns <burns@cisco.com> Subject: D-90 Returns Date: Fri, 16 Jun 95 19:43:05 PDT got the D-90 back today, all spit polished, and shined. I also got a pretty good inventory of spare parts. 1 tailgate D-90 1 spare tire carrier D-90 assorted D-90 body parts 2 Range Rover doors (perfect shape 1 lower tailgate (some Rust) 1 upper tailgate with window. It wasent too bad of a deal all in all. The bump shop also said they would call me if they get any other Rover parts... Russ Burns D-90 Range Rover ------------------------------[ <- Message 27 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950617 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: JFisk1120@aol.com Date: Sat, 17 Jun 1995 00:19:16 -0400 Subject: NEW 109 As time passes, I am inclined to think that nothing takes more time than paint. The 109 which we began to renew in early spring has become a bit of a trial. We pulled the old gal apart and checked all the mechanics in just over three weeks. I thought that that would be the hard part. Following the repaint of the engine compartment, we reinstalled the engine and other pertinent bits of mechanical apparati and returned CAMEL 1 (as she is affectionately known around here) to the coachbuilder. Well, we have straightened, alligned, welded, bolted, primed and blocked until we are blue in the pocketbook, but alas, no exhaust fumes. Following the repaint we still have to visit the trim shop for interior refitting. I really hope we get this warm weather project completed before the snow flies. By the way, Jan has no illusions with regard to the name CAMEL 1, however, our first Rover, LION B8, needed an appropriate stable mate. LION B8 is a '64 88' which runs topless this time of year.....now, if we could just get it to stop raining!! J. Howard Fisk Springfield, Missouri ------------------------------[ <- Message 28 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950617 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 16 Jun 1995 23:33:07 -0500 (CDT) From: David John Place <umplace@cc.UManitoba.CA> Subject: Re: SIItoSIII brakes The unit is for the AMC Rambler. It bolts onto to the servo real fine. Dave VE4PN ------------------------------[ <- Message 29 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950617 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 16 Jun 1995 23:08:43 -0700 From: gpool@pacific.pacific.net (Granville B. Pool) Subject: Re: Fabric Doors On Rover John Liu said: >Thought I'd pass on an interesting modification I have seen recently. >A local Series III 88" that is used for very heavy offroading (e.g., yearly [ truncated by lro-digester (was 17 lines)] >panel in the door fabric for added ventilation on those 110 degree days in >the Southern Calfornia desert. For those of you who don't already know, that Land-Rover belongs to Lawrence, the owner of British Pacific in Burbank, CA. Some of the body modifications, including the soft top probably stem from the famous roll-over on the slick rock at Moab a few years ago. I like the cut-out wings and may do it to mine (my wings are pretty beat anyway). Lawrence had his Land-Rover at the Hayward British Car Show last Sunday. Also there, Roger Sinasohn had his 88 which also has the wings cut out and then reinforced with narrow aluminum angle. John Hess's lovely Dormobile took best of show in the Land-Rover category. Domingos was there but minus his Camel 110, more's the pity. 23 Land-Rovers made them a shoo-in for marque trophy for most participants (got it last year, too, with only 12). This year a number of the Land-Rovers convoyed in covered with mud from Hollister Hills. Even the long-nosed Jaguar owners cheered! Granville ------------------------------[ <- Message 30 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950617 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
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