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msg | Sender | lines | Subject |
1 | "James" [James.Curtis@ne | 47 | Land Rover Security ????? |
2 | Tom Stevenson [gbfv08@ud | 19 | Ninety brakes |
3 | Tom Stevenson [gbfv08@ud | 14 | rubbing tyres |
4 | Mr Ian Stuart [Ian.Stuar | 34 | Re: Land Rover Security ????? |
5 | "Tom Rowe" [TROWE@AE.AGE | 23 | Re: Removing brake drums |
6 | "Tom Rowe" [TROWE@AE.AGE | 24 | Re: Swivel to hub lube |
7 | kessels.bill=40ott01=40c | 31 | Re:Defender-90 Tire Rub/Acces |
8 | Jim Russell [jrussell@ne | 14 | Re: Fron wheel lube... |
9 | Mike Rooth [M.J.Rooth@lu | 20 | Re: Land Rover Security ????? |
10 | John Brabyn [brabyn@skiv | 19 | Re: Air Filters |
11 | John Brabyn [brabyn@skiv | 27 | Re: Winches for D90's |
12 | Alan Richer [Alan_Richer | 14 | Speaking of brakes... |
13 | "Sean McInerney" [smcine | 14 | Not getting through |
14 | johnliu@lainet.com (John | 14 | Re: Land Rover Security ????? |
15 | "Sean McInerney" [smcine | 42 | Noisy Gas Guzzler |
16 | "Sean McInerney" [smcine | 18 | Functional Rollbar or Cage |
17 | Sanna@aol.com | 15 | Re: Broken Studs on Exhaust |
18 | Sanna@aol.com | 16 | Re: Nigel's Disease, again |
19 | Sanna@aol.com | 14 | Re: Broken Studs on Exhaust |
20 | JCassidyiv@aol.com | 16 | POR-15 |
21 | Sanna@aol.com | 22 | Re: Land Rover Security ????? |
22 | Sanna@aol.com | 15 | Re: IIa vs. III |
23 | Sanna@aol.com | 11 | Re: ET progress report |
24 | Craig Murray [craigp@ocs | 28 | Re: Noisy Gas Guzzler |
25 | jory@MIT.EDU (jory bell) | 35 | The Evil Thing strikes back... |
26 | Craig Murray [craigp@ocs | 30 | Re: The Evil Thing strikes back... |
27 | "Stephen O'Hearn" [72700 | 58 | Defender-90 Tire Rub Normal? |
28 | Andrew Steele [ad158@day | 62 | 1973 "new" 88 |
29 | Craig Murray [craigp@ocs | 20 | Re: 1973 "new" 88 |
30 | Treski@aol.com | 15 | RE: All Defender 110 owners / fans!!!! |
31 | David John Place [umplac | 24 | Re: 1973 "new" 88 |
32 | LANDROVER@delphi.com | 24 | Re: Swivel to hub lube |
From: "James" <James.Curtis@newcastle.ac.uk> Date: Thu, 15 Jun 1995 11:03:23 GMT0BST Subject: Land Rover Security ????? On the subject of Land Rover security... I have a friend with a series 3 which was broken into in a supermarket carpark last week. The theif had crowbarred open the driver's door and attempted to hotwire the ignition under the steering column. The car was allarmed and the alarm was still going off when the owner returned to the car but it must not have been much of a deterrant as the hotwire job was well in progress. Anyway... Fortunately the vehicle owner came back in time and the thief dissappeared leaving a job half done. Anyway as happens in this kind of situation... the police were called... The poiceman was giving the owner of the vehicle a hard time about keeping his vehicle secure.... Until.... My friend drew out of his pocket, alarm control, HT lead, Overdrive lever.... and probably half of the rest of the car! So... In conclusion... A simple immobiliser is preferable to a fancy alarm system. By the way... Has anyone any tips on how to make the vehicle more secure as regards entry? ... James Curtis ------------------------------[ <- Message 2 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950616 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Tom Stevenson <gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk> Subject: Ninety brakes Date: Thu, 15 Jun 1995 11:59:23 +0100 (BST) >similar noise problem fixed, which came up after a weekend trip to >Cape Cod over the sand. It turned out that (according to the dealer) >the emergency brake was rubbing against the rear drums. This caused >the vehicle to sound as through something were still engaged when >rolling forward in neutral. However, my 90 has never This sounds like a bit of a dodgy explanation from the dealer. For a start, I thought the US 90s had discs all round. Also, the LR emergency (parking) brake operates on the transmission, not on the wheel brakes. -- Tom Stevenson: gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk University Marine Biological Station, Isle of Cumbrae, Scotland Tel:(01475) 530581 Fax:(01475) 530601 ------------------------------[ <- Message 3 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950616 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Tom Stevenson <gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk> Subject: rubbing tyres Date: Thu, 15 Jun 1995 12:05:49 +0100 (BST) Jeff It sounds as though the steering lock limit bolts are incorrectly set for the tyres you have fitted. They need adjusting so that the tyres don't rub on the suspension arms at full lock. -- Tom Stevenson: gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk University Marine Biological Station, Isle of Cumbrae, Scotland Tel:(01475) 530581 Fax:(01475) 530601 ------------------------------[ <- Message 4 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950616 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Mr Ian Stuart <Ian.Stuart@ed.ac.uk> Date: Thu, 15 Jun 1995 12:32:15 +0000 Subject: Re: Land Rover Security ????? > Has anyone any tips on how to make the vehicle more secure as regards > entry? In my opinion, locking the car just means that the thief will do more damage - if the car has no visible radio then there is less chance of someone breaking into the car. Here is my thief deterent plan: I intend to find the cheapest, crappiest, most bashed *manual tune* radio I can find and take the top cover off it. I'll then solder a piece of junk wire to the speaker outputs on the main board and tuck the other end out of sight. Pull some of the wiring loom so that it stands proud of the box and you're away. This mess will then be held to the dashboard in the crudest manner I can use (it depends on where on the dash it goes.) A thief will take one look at the radio and see that they'll get a quid *if they're lucky* and not bother to break in. This leaves my real radio, safely hidden behind the centre seat (or wherever), untouched. Another quick trick for stopping joyriders is to slip the transfer box into neutral when you park - less obvious, and less messy, that openning the bonnet and removing parts of the engine :-) BTW - how can you joyride in an SIII? Low top speed, no handbreak turns and all the handling of a dead whale! ----** Ian Stuart (Computing Officer) +44 31 650 6205 Royal (Dick) School of Veterinary Studies, Edinburgh University. WWW sites: Work -- <http://www.vet.ed.ac.uk/> Personal -- <http://www.tardis.ed.ac.uk/~kiz/> ------------------------------[ <- Message 5 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950616 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU> Date: Thu, 15 Jun 1995 07:29:06 GMT -0600 Subject: Re: Removing brake drums Charlie Wright wrote he had trouble removing his brake drums. As you may be aware, there is a hole in the drum that one of the retaining screws will fit to press against the hub to pop off the drum. Many times on rusted drums I've foung the retaining screw woefully inadequate. So I use a grade 8 cap screw about 1-2 inches long (I keep one in my tool chest). With a little tenderness, turning in the cap screw to the point where the drum is coming off on one side then backing out the screw and tapping the drum back on and repeating the process, there hasn't been a drum I haven't been able to get off. Also liberal quantities of something better than Lquid Wench called PDQ made by a company in PA. Hope this helps next time. But you used Never Seeze when you repaced them, right? Tom Tom Rowe UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research 608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578 Four wheel drive allows you to get trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu stuck in places even more inaccessible. ------------------------------[ <- Message 6 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950616 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU> Date: Thu, 15 Jun 1995 07:47:56 GMT -0600 Subject: Re: Swivel to hub lube Reading the postings regarding the lube of front wheel hubs one thing seems to have been missed. Most, if not all, series hubs had an oil passage drilled from inside the hub to one of the holes for the driving member bolt. You can see it when you have the hub off. On cleaning the hub, make sure the passage is clear and mark the outside of the hub (you can't see the hole once the hub is installed). I also paint the bolt that will go in that spot with a significant color. After reassembly, rotate the hub so your marked bolt is on top, remove it and fill the hub with the proper qty. of oil. TerriAnn is right though, the later manuals say to pack the bearings & hub with grease. ?? Chhers, Tom Tom Rowe UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research 608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578 Four wheel drive allows you to get trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu stuck in places even more inaccessible. ------------------------------[ <- Message 7 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950616 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: kessels.bill=40ott01=40c14a#%forwarder@ey.geis.com Date: Thu, 15 Jun 95 14:59:00 UTC Subject: Re:Defender-90 Tire Rub/Acces (LAN Addressees) LRO submissions Jeff Gauvin Wrote: "But, since the day I drove it out of the showroom I've noticed a rather disturbing "grinding" noise when the steering is at full-lock left...." I have not had this problem on mine, sounds like something not quite right. Shannon Holland wrote: "I'm getting pretty close to buying a new Defender 90 and have a couple of questions regarding some of the accessories...." Get a winch! But I think there must be a better solution than the LRNA Warn combo--very pricey. The engine protecion plate is interesting--I wonder if it protects the steering tracking(?) rod--(the thing that keeps both front wheels going in the same direction). I already had to get one replaced after getting stuck--I was high centered, and the rod runs just below the front axle, so in effect the weight of the vehicle was sitting on it. It cost $200 cdn installed. (if I had a winch I wouldn't have had the problem to begin with) Bill Kessels kesselsb@ey.geis.com ------------------------------[ <- Message 8 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950616 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 15 Jun 1995 07:39:03 -0700 (PDT) From: Jim Russell <jrussell@netcom.com> Subject: Re: Fron wheel lube... Earlier vehicle (at least through '66) where supplied with all wheel bearings being oil lubricated. The hole in the driving member was used for filling after disassembly but normally the oil found it's way there on it's own. Later vehicles were supplied with grease packed bearings and the service manual recommended conversion of earlier oil lubed hub bearings to grease lubrication. Jim Russell ==== jrussell@netcom.com (Seattle -- San Francisco) ------------------------------[ <- Message 9 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950616 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk> Subject: Re: Land Rover Security ????? Date: Thu, 15 Jun 95 17:02:53 BST With regard to this query,has anyone considered a large dog? Or even a small one with large teeth. i would consider a Newfie ideal,personally(as was discussed some months ago).Wouldnt bite,but would either: A)Lick the intruder to death B)Drown the sod in spit C)Sit on hime till you got back(with the possibiltiy of suffocation). To my knowledge,no other protection device(or breed) offers this wide range of options. Cheers Mike Rooth ------------------------------[ <- Message 10 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950616 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 15 Jun 1995 09:49:20 -0700 (PDT) From: John Brabyn <brabyn@skivs.ski.org> Subject: Re: Air Filters On Tue, 13 Jun 1995, TeriAnn Wakeman wrote: >..... It was more cost effective to frequently > replace paper elements than to frequently clean foam elements. This makes sense to me TerriAnn -- and besides, being lazy, it saves me from switching to the K&N system and doing all that cleaning! I replace mine about twice as often as the manual recommends to compensate for the excessive diet of dust I feed it. I'd much rather replace the element than mess about with cleaning it. Cheers John ------------------------------[ <- Message 11 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950616 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 15 Jun 1995 10:03:09 -0700 (PDT) From: John Brabyn <brabyn@skivs.ski.org> Subject: Re: Winches for D90's On Wed, 14 Jun 1995 kessels.bill=40ott01=40c14a#%forwarder@ey.geis.com wrote: > ... Can I just bolt (or even > weld) the winch right to the bumper or does the mounting kit actually fasten > it to the frame? No you can't, but you might get away with a winch mounting channel from Warn for about $50 that you could bolt or weld on -- the type they use for Jeep Wranglers. > Does anybody have any lower cost winch solutions? > weld) the winch right to the bumper or does the mounting kit actually fasten I'd call Ramsey Winch Autocrane in Tulsa Oklahoma -- their winches are cheaper than Warn, and they make $100 mounting kits for RRs, don't know about Defenders, but probably by now they have one out. To actually order the stuff you have to go through one of their dealers of course -- the best one is Leon Rosser Jeep. Cheers John Brabyn 89RR ------------------------------[ <- Message 12 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950616 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Alan Richer <Alan_Richer.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com> Date: 15 Jun 95 8:51:14 EDT Subject: Speaking of brakes... Speaking of brakes, is there anywhere a commonly-available double master cylinder that will bolt up to a Series IIa brake pedal? The thought of single-cylinder brakes leaves me a bit cold, so I was thinking of replacing the brake lines and hoses, and splitting the system front/back with a double master cylinder. Anybody done this, preferably with parts I can get in the States? Yours, Alan ------------------------------[ <- Message 13 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950616 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: 15 Jun 1995 10:26:45 U From: "Sean McInerney" <smcinerney@mail.nrgn.com> Subject: Not getting through Subject: Time: 10:25 AM OFFICE MEMO Not getting through Date: 06.15.95 My submissions to the list are constantly being returned to me after being sent to lro@Land-Rover.Team.Net. What is the correct address for submissions to the LRO digest? They leave my mail router yet never reach their final destination. Hopefully this message will reach someone.....I have plenty of things which I have been trying to submit. If this message somehow ends up on the list.....then I guess my question is answered. ------------------------------[ <- Message 14 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950616 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 15 Jun 1995 17:41:34 GMT From: johnliu@lainet.com (John Y. Liu) Subject: Re: Land Rover Security ????? When my Sr IIA was broken into, the thief smashed a rear window and then could not figure out how to unlock the door latch (since it locks and unlocks with a key only.) He (sexist assumption) eventually forced open the latch leaving me with quite a bit more to repair than a broken window. The lesson I took from this was that if you are in the U.S. where thieves will not know how to unlock a Rover door latch without using a crowbar, consider leaving the vehicle unlocked and relying on hidden radios, ignition cut-off switches, and padlocked storage boxes for your security. ------------------------------[ <- Message 15 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950616 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: 15 Jun 1995 14:23:12 U From: "Sean McInerney" <smcinerney@mail.nrgn.com> Subject: Noisy Gas Guzzler Subject: Time: 4:53 PM OFFICE MEMO Noisy Gas Guzzler Date: 06.12.95 I am trying to send this message for the third time. Please excuse any repeats. I have a 1963 88" with basically no interior excepting the seats......so it is pretty loud at highway speeds. However, I have zeroed in on at least one major unnecessary contributor to my impending deafness.....the high range 4WD selector. At speeds above 55 mph, the rattle from the selector contributes as much as 50% to the total noise produced......inside the Rover, at least. How might I remedy this? The spring seems to provide adequate tension for the knob to be functional and the linkage seems alright (but I have not gotten out the heavy-duty degreaser and investigated extensively). Does the spring need to be under a decent amount of tension while in 2WD? Is it possible to have too much tension (i.e.: impossible to engage 4WD High)? Also, my Rover has a basically stock 2.25l petrol engine with the PVC system and a single-barrel Weber carberator (I think it originally resided in a post-'65 RHD 109" judging by the serial number.). Aside from leaking some oil (I think mostly from the front main seal......no blue smoke and the clutch works fine), it runs very smoothly and has a lot of power (for a '63 Rover). My problem is milage, which is between 10 and 12 miles per gallon....especially considering that I have only the single 12 gallon tank. A lot of this may be explained by my primarily highway driving in the 55-70 mph range (anything above 70 mph, however, is deafening enough to drown out the previously mentioned rattle.). There is some oil on top of the head....not abnormally huge amounts, but a nice wet coating (I think from the fitting between the PCV valve and the pipe from the crankcase). Could there be some occult gasoline mixed in with this seemingly benign oil?.......or where could all my gasoline be going? 11 mpg just seems awfully low when some people are claiming 20 mpg with twin-carbed V8s. Help...save my fuel bill. Thanks in advance, Sean C. McInerney 1963 SIIa 88" HT "Friends call it the Beast." ------------------------------[ <- Message 16 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950616 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: 15 Jun 1995 14:24:30 U From: "Sean McInerney" <smcinerney@mail.nrgn.com> Subject: Functional Rollbar or Cage REGARDING Functional Rollbar or Cage Does anyone know of a good, functional rollbar for Series IIa Rovers?......Perhaps, even those requiring body modification and bolting to the frame. Would it be worthwhile to contact Safety Devices? Does anyone know how that might be achieved.......phone?....FAX?....address? Additionally, is there anyone on the East Coast specializing in fabrication and installation of such rollbars suitible for the Land Rover? Thanks in advance, Sean C. McInerney 1963 SIIa 88" HT Friends call it 'The Beast' ------------------------------[ <- Message 17 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950616 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Sanna@aol.com Date: Thu, 15 Jun 1995 18:00:02 -0400 Subject: Re: Broken Studs on Exhaust >The center top stud for the exhaust manifold is sheared off in the cylinder head Go to your hardware store a get the appropriate Easy Out and back that sucker out. This is SOP for old LR's: You think, "Should I take that exhaust maifold off or not, Hmmmm." You try the first bolt and it unscrews with your fingers. The second one comes out like it's been greased. So you roll up your sleeves and go to it, only to have the last bolt shear off in the head. Expect it. Shear Happens! ...as they say. ------------------------------[ <- Message 18 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950616 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Sanna@aol.com Date: Thu, 15 Jun 1995 18:11:44 -0400 Subject: Re: Nigel's Disease, again >No sooner did someone mention that their electric oil pressure sending unit failed that *mine* packed in. Get a mechanical!!!! I've been driving Lulubelle since 1970, and it didn't take me that long to figure out that the Smith's electrical unit was stroking me. Slap that banjo fitting on the oil line and get real-world OP. SideBar: I lost many vibration dampers, several timing chains, and a set of valves relying on that old electrical gauge. It really sucks. ---- ------------------------------[ <- Message 19 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950616 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Sanna@aol.com Date: Thu, 15 Jun 1995 18:22:18 -0400 Subject: Re: Broken Studs on Exhaust >Not the easiest thing to do and unless you are very careful you can bugger up the threads in the hole. If you don't feel that brave, then your best bet is to take the head to a competant machine shop and have them do it. NOTE: Piece of Cake!!!! Go to Sears. But the appropriate Easy Out and acsociated drill bit (if you don't have) and do it. -- ------------------------------[ <- Message 20 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950616 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: JCassidyiv@aol.com Date: Thu, 15 Jun 1995 18:42:59 -0400 Subject: POR-15 I'm in the second year of my 1966 IIA resto and I decided to try the POR-15 on the frame as added insurance. I ordered their sample kit and followed the instructions for application and painted one of the old broken leaf springs. After drying, I took a sledgehammer to the paint to see if it would hold up-and it did! I painted the whole frame and all other unpainted steel on the truck. As it's not running yet, I don't know if the first winter will take it all off or not. It dries to a porcelin like finish. It's worth getting their sample and trying it. I'll be painting the undercarriage of my 1987 RR with it before the fall. Cheers! John ------------------------------[ <- Message 21 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950616 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Sanna@aol.com Date: Thu, 15 Jun 1995 18:48:56 -0400 Subject: Re: Land Rover Security ????? >The lesson I took from this was that if you are in the U.S. where thieves will not know how to unlock a Rover door latch without using a crowbar, consider leaving the vehicle unlocked Listen.... Lulubelle is a '70 IIa with a canvas top AND NO DOOR LOCKS (I replaced the flawed IIa latches with III hardware but never had them fitted with tumblers or keys). I left her for a few days in the Portland, OR airport lot, and came back to her ravanged interior and slashed top. ALL THESE F__KERS had to do is open the door, but they took their blades and carved the canvas to smitherines. There's no counting for inteligence. I had a friend in Portland who had a series-7 BMW. When they took his Blaukpunt, they pried the sunroof out of the B'mr with crowbars rather than just poppping a window and having done with it. The result: Blaukpunt=$1,200... body work= $8,000. Never was the same car. -=-- ------------------------------[ <- Message 22 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950616 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Sanna@aol.com Date: Thu, 15 Jun 1995 18:52:13 -0400 Subject: Re: IIa vs. III >I'm in the market for a "Series" Land-Rover. I've been told by some that in general the Series IIa is "better Let's get down to basics..... REAL ROVERS HAVE METAL DASH'S. Got it? -- ------------------------------[ <- Message 23 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950616 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Sanna@aol.com Date: Thu, 15 Jun 1995 18:53:59 -0400 Subject: Re: ET progress report >My old 88" still doesn't have a name. In the decade it's been in the family nothing ever stuck. What! Don't you name your babies? You're asking for trouble with an English car. ------------------------------[ <- Message 24 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950616 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Craig Murray <craigp@ocs.cpsg.com.au> Subject: Re: Noisy Gas Guzzler Date: Fri, 16 Jun 95 9:04:36 EST > I have a 1963 88" with basically no interior excepting the seats......so it > is pretty loud at highway speeds. However, I have zeroed in on at least one [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)] > spring need to be under a decent amount of tension while in 2WD? Is it > possible to have too much tension (i.e.: impossible to engage 4WD High)? You think thats noisy, I have a 2.25 Diesel in a Series 1!!, which means the only sound proofing in the vehicle is metal!!!! I also have a noisy gearbox ,used second hand gears in the re-build, so they don't match, very aggressive mud tyres, that howl louder than the motor, and I am starting to get a bit of diff whine as well!! The interior of this vehicle is so loud, that once when I was driving along at 50 MPH, my sister was tail gating me, and tooting her horn, but I could not hear the horn!!! -- ============================================================================== Craig Murray | 1955 Series 1 86" LROC of Victoria Australia | 2.25 diesel LROC of Gippsland Victoria Australia | My car is constipated, email: craigp@ocs.cpsg.com.au | It has not passed a | thing all day!! ------------------------------[ <- Message 25 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950616 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 15 Jun 95 19:47:11 EDT From: jory@MIT.EDU (jory bell) Subject: The Evil Thing strikes back... Well, last week my rover decided to take full advantage of a planned downtime. I had intended to replace all the tie-rod ends this week, since one of them was seriously sloppy. I was also planning on changing all the gear oils, and generally fixing little things, etc. In preparation, I fixed up my bicycle to assist in the commuting. The timing was seeming good, since Friday I was treated to a flat tire... I knew the rover wanted some attention. Saturday, I went to get some rover repair supplies (oil, grease, etc). Suddenly, third and fourth gear were simply not an option... the gearbox had decided to become a 2 speed. I haven't had the time or heart to drain the oil and (likely) start ripping apart the box. Charlie at RN suggested it might by the 3rd/4th synchro (I called him, since he had rebuilt the gearbox 2 years ago). Any other diagnoses prior to the first incision? jory bell jory@mit.edu ps: This is only the second time in 6 years that the rover has had unplanned downtime lasting more than a fe hours (there was the planned downtime of the frame replacement/rebuild and one other time when my brake master cylinder died, and I ended up having to replace all the brake lines and hydraulics). I guess this is my punishment for repeatedly claiming that a series rover can be a reliable "normal" vehicle and commuting car... ------------------------------[ <- Message 26 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950616 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Craig Murray <craigp@ocs.cpsg.com.au> Subject: Re: The Evil Thing strikes back... Date: Fri, 16 Jun 95 10:47:49 EST jory wrote: > Saturday, I went to get some rover repair supplies (oil, grease, etc). > Suddenly, third and fourth gear were simply not an option... the gearbox > had decided to become a 2 speed. > I haven't had the time or heart to drain the oil and (likely) start ripping > apart the box. Charlie at RN suggested it might by the 3rd/4th synchro (I > called him, since he had rebuilt the gearbox 2 years ago). Any other > diagnoses prior to the first incision? Yeah, it sounds like one of the spring clips on the syncro hub has come off, I had this happen a couple of years ago. If you are lucky, it might have just slipped around a bit, as mine did, but if it is broken, you can either remove the other spring clips, or replace the syncro hub. You should be able to verify this, by just removing the top of the gearbox, which is possible to do with out actually removing it from the vehicle. -- ============================================================================== Craig Murray | 1955 Series 1 86" LROC of Victoria Australia | 2.25 diesel LROC of Gippsland Victoria Australia | My car is constipated, email: craigp@ocs.cpsg.com.au | It has not passed a | thing all day!! ------------------------------[ <- Message 27 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950616 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: 15 Jun 95 21:55:12 EDT From: "Stephen O'Hearn" <72700.3262@compuserve.com> Subject: Defender-90 Tire Rub Normal? Jeff Gauvin wrote: >But, since the day I drove it out of the showroom I've noticed a rather >disturbing "grinding" noise when the steering is at full-lock left. [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)] >of the left front tire rubs against the radius arm. The tires are the >stock BFG Mud Terrains on the "freestyle choice" alloy wheels. There is a steering stop adjustment (a couple of bolts to the rear and above the swivel housings I think, sorry, workshop manual still not handy). Anyway the adjustment is different for differing tire sizes explaining why wider tires increases turning radius. It sounds like your's is improperly set. You could fix this yourself if you so desire. Shannon Holland wrote: >1. The "Engine Protection Plate". I presume the purpose of this is to >protect the engine from obtrusive rocks, etc. The dealer I'm working with >lists this at $579.00 Is this worh getting? Can I get the same thing >elsewhere later for less and install it myself? Questionable, maybe, and yes. >2. Lamp guards. I see only rear lamp guards listed (for a mere $295.00!). >Can you get front mesh style guards as well? Is this another item that I'm >better off getting elsewhere? Yes and yes (Rovers North, 802-879-0032). >3. Any other accessories people would recommend? Earplugs and a sweater <g>. Paul M. Brodie wrote: > NO - the clanking is not normal - have it looked at. I just had a > similar noise problem fixed, which came up after a weekend trip to [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)] > rolling forward in neutral. However, my 90 has never dropped out of > gear, in either high or low diff. Ditto on the NO, ditto on the parking brake problem (back off the adjuster), and ditto on the never popping out of gear. You're welcome for the tip on the leak but I meant rear MAIN seal, not oil pan, which I assume you mean and which leaks too BTW. - Stephen +--------------------------------------------------------------------------+ | Stephen O'Hearn 1994 LAND- Tread Lightly | | El Segundo, CA, USA DEFENDER -ROVER on Public and | | 72700.3262@compuserve.com 90 The Best 4x4xFar Private Lands | +--------------------------------------------------------------------------+ ------------------------------[ <- Message 28 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950616 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 15 Jun 1995 22:15:26 -0400 From: Andrew Steele <ad158@dayton.wright.edu> Subject: 1973 "new" 88 Hello, I have several thoughts this evening. Thanks to every one who commented about the temp sending units on RR. I will be ordering a new unit when I get my FIRST (of many) Series III parts. To satisfy anyone's curiosity, I bought the 1973 Series III 88 advertised several weeks back in Missouri. (Sight unseen let me add) The trip went well, my 87 RR pulled an empty U-Haul auto transport trailer from Ohio with no unexpected happening. The 88 was last licensed or run five years ago. Front fenders & hood were removed and stored in the back. Last owner bought it to restore and never had time. Purchase price was $800. Question #1, was this to high? (In retrospect, I'm sure more info & consideration on my part would have been appropriate). Trip home started awkwardly. Loaded w/ the front wheels of the 88 on the appropriate bracket made the trailer very front heavy; and the Range Rover much to light on its ront axle (front wheels locked at the first stop sign with very light braking). The tie down straps were not arranged to allow positioning of the 88 better centered on the trailer (damn a short wheel base vehicle -just kidding). I tried reloading the 88 backwards thinking that would give a better weight distribution on the trailer. No go this way either. Reloaded a third time and had to disregard the provided wheel stops and tire straps on the trailer. Fortunatly, I had a tow strap and come-a-long with me so I was able to secure it farther back on the trailer. [Take heed if you ever trailer an 88 using a U-haul]. It was closer to midnight than I cared for at this point, but started back anyway. [Tried one hotel but they didn't care to accomidate Lum (my Great Dane). Slept in a rest area (Range Rovers work pretty well with the seats folded - not a lot of extra room with the dog mind you - and I would'nt care to try sleeping in a rest area without her anyway, would'nt want to get shot. She barked when a car and occupants (very rough) pulled up along side and they moved on. Total trip was just under 1,100 miles and 22 hrs. Back in the garage, closer investigation reveals that the brakes and clutch are without any fluids. Three brake line leaks found after refilling. Clutch still has no effect when refilled and bleeder opened. QUESTION #2 as I didn't pay much attention to the bleeding the clutch notes several months past (well no Series in the garage at that time) could someone either repost the FAQ or remind me where to look to find it? Other notes, frame is in fairly good shape, only three small holes rusted through, otherwise solid. New gas tank was included, needs a new bracket welded on beore reinstallation. Fuel filter has growths in it that put a childs magic rock growth collection to shame. Electrically dead except for emergency flashers. Body & top faded, but other than some dents in good shape except for the side panal riviots over the rear wheelwell. Third and final question (for now): In prepartion to turn the engine and see if its seized (that's true - I really don't know) I am going to shoot a mixture of rust penentrant and oil into the spark plug holes. Is there anything else I should do first? (Anyone in the Dayton area care to stop by the house with a crank for a few hrs?) Thanks for your patience, I know this was a long and rambling post. Andrew Dayton, Ohio 87 RR and now presenting "noname yet" Series III 88. ------------------------------[ <- Message 29 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950616 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Craig Murray <craigp@ocs.cpsg.com.au> Subject: Re: 1973 "new" 88 Date: Fri, 16 Jun 95 12:32:40 EST Try to crank it over before you put the anti rust stuff down the cylinders. I know some one who pulled a Land Rover off a farm, that had not been touched in about 10 years! We put a battery in it, gave it a coil and some fuel, and it fired up. We even drove it around, but it looked a bit silly having to have some one walking beside the car to operate the throttle, as there were no linkages!! -- ============================================================================== Craig Murray | 1955 Series 1 86" LROC of Victoria Australia | 2.25 diesel LROC of Gippsland Victoria Australia | My car is constipated, email: craigp@ocs.cpsg.com.au | It has not passed a | thing all day!! ------------------------------[ <- Message 30 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950616 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Treski@aol.com Date: Fri, 16 Jun 1995 00:16:06 -0400 Subject: RE: All Defender 110 owners / fans!!!! HI all you rover fans! I am looking to share info on accessories for defender 110s and 90s. also my rover is "clunking" ion 1st gear, and it feels like the emergency brake is a little harder to pull up. Is this a potential prob???? ANy one from the midwest that reads this should e-mail me soon because a great club just got started and is really fun!!! thank you and i welcome any personal comments !! Tre M. ------------------------------[ <- Message 31 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950616 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 15 Jun 1995 23:42:51 -0500 (CDT) From: David John Place <umplace@cc.UManitoba.CA> Subject: Re: 1973 "new" 88 I just picked up a vehicle stored 7 years and I would say don't start the engine till you clean up a few things and get new oil in to the bearings. What is a few hours work if you want to keep this thing ten years. Drop the pan, clean out the curd, put on a new filter but put oil in the housing when you close it up so the engine doesn't run on dry the first time you start it up, Put new oil in the air bath, take out the plugs and replace them and at the same time put in a good amount of WD40 or heavier oil. The walls are going to be dry and the rings will scuff at the least and break at the worst. If you have the time I have taken the crank bearings down and oiled them before a start up. I just bought an Austin not run for 7 years. It took half a day to prep it for start up but it runs like a new vehicle. It only had 40,000 miles so I didn't want to wreck it before I even got it started. While you are at it drain the cooking system and put in new rust inhibiting antifreeze. You don't want to circulate a whole bunch of crud and plug the thermostat and rad. They cost big bucks. A few turns with the crank or with the coil not attached and then a start up. This is the way to get a dead vehicle up and running not the bull in a china shop approach which does 5 years damage in ten seconds. Dave VE4PN ------------------------------[ <- Message 32 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950616 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: LANDROVER@delphi.com Date: Fri, 16 Jun 1995 01:52:03 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: Swivel to hub lube Tom Rowe sez... > Most, if not all, series hubs had an oil passage drilled > from inside the hub to one of the holes for the driving member bolt. You > can see it when you have the hub off. On cleaning the hub, make sure > the passage is clear and mark the outside of the hub (you can't see the > hole once the hub is installed). Actually... Look carefully at your hubs.. The drilled bolt hole is the only one that is positioned halfway between two of the lug bolts. Cheers Michael Loiodice E-MAIL landrover@delphi.com 166 W.Fulton St. VOICE (518) 773-2697 Gloversville NY, 12078 1972 Ser III 88 Petrol (Fern) R.I.P. 7 1971 Ser IIa 88 Petrol #:-}> 1965 Ser IIa 88 Petrol ------------------------------[ <- Message 33 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950616 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
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