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Date: Wed, 14 Jun 1995 11:40:01 +0059 (BST)
From: Charlie Wright <cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: Air Filters

On Tue, 13 Jun 1995, TeriAnn Wakeman wrote:

> ; For all those who want to let their Disco's and Range Rovers breathe easier,
> ; the folks at Rover's North just sent me the K+N air filters which fit.  The
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 11 lines)]
> elements were used in the study as representing the best foam filter elements.  
> Bottom line is that the foam filters let in a LOT more dirt particals than the 

> TeriAnn Wakeman              .sig closed for remodeling

I don't know what sort of K&N filters they were using, but they are not 
the K&N I've used for years. The K&N I'm familiar with are a cotton gauze 
between layers of wire mesh. They are oiled with a light oil which traps 
the dust and dirt particles. They can be washed with a special filter 
cleaner to remove gunk and oil (carefully from inside only), and 
re-oiled. They are the filter of choice amongst all the crowd I know in 
the BMW CCA. They are free breathing and very effective at particulate 
capture. I don't know who does 'foam' filters, I have one on my lawnmower.

Having said that, none of these cars get off road, so I don't know how 
they cope with heavily loaded dusty air. I can't imagine they would fail 
to filter, but I can imagine they would clog eventually.

Charlie

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Jun 1995 11:52:45 +0059 (BST)
From: Charlie Wright <cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: Brakes

  Do us all a favor, work on ALL your brakes real soon.  One leaking seal
  may indicate that the others are on the verge of destruction also.  And,
  check out the inside of your drums and brake housing, it won't take long
  to pop them off, just take off the wheel and the two screws to the drum,
  nothing to it.

Yes, do that. But, Michael, I must disagree. "Nothing to it"?  That 
assumes that a clever PO used anti-seize or copper-eze.  I wish. I had to 
get the largest puller in the free world to get my last set of drums 
off... and I thought for a while that I was about to lose an arm if it 
let go. A bottle of propane, a rubber mallet, and a lot of skinned 
knuckles later.... free at last!

Charlie

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date:          Wed, 14 Jun 1995 07:26:52 GMT -0600
Subject:       Re: K&N air filters, 2MB heater

TerriAnn wrote of a study stating foam filter's are harmful. From what I've 
read that's partly true. I looked at a study in one of the off-road mags years 
ago that compared paper, foam, oil bath & maybe another. Ranking in best to 
worst at beginning of service life was : oil bath, paper w/oiled foam 
cover, paper, foam. I can't remember exactly how it changed as they aged, but 
oil bath stayed near the top and ones with foam got better. Apparently as the 
foam collects dirt it filters better, but it has to be oiled foam.
As for the K&N, I don't know about the one's RN sells, but the one I use on 
my 2BB Weber is an oiled paper (not foam) element that can be cleaned and 
reoiled. I wanted to use my oil bath filter, but I never got around to having 
an adapter made.

On the subject of the Kodiak heaters and the mouse breath rating; I loved the 
explanation, one of the best I've seen on the list and I believe it's pretty 
accurate, based on my experience in VT & WI. Unfortunately I think my mice 
have emphysema.
Cheers,
Tom

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578         Four wheel drive allows you to get
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

From: "David McKain" <MCKAIN@faculty.coe.wvu.edu>
Date:          Wed, 14 Jun 1995 09:17:31 EDT
Subject:       Tie rod ends

I'm in a slight bind. I need to replace a tie-rod end on the driver 
side wheel. I checked the LR web site which has an extensive list of 
replacement part numbers to no avail. Does anyone out there know of a 
number for a replacement part other than Rovers North and the like? 
The vehicle in question is a 1966 SIIa SWB.

Additional news - I painted the tropical roof, door tops, and rear 
door and the beast is together finally. It's a bit of a hassle to 
worry about whether it is going to rain anytime during your trip. Now 
I just have to get out the whip so I can train the new door seals to 
stay in place.

David McKain
1966 SIIa Petrol
mckain@faculty.coe.wvu.edu
(304) 599-0120
Morgantown, WV
USA                     

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Jun 1995 14:14:35 +0059 (BST)
From: Charlie Wright <cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk>
Subject: Ford conversions

I recall something (dated now) in the archives about someone (in Austin, 
TX?) looking into the Ford 4.0 litre V6 from the Explorer and mating it 
with either a series box or the Ford Automatic to the transfer box.

Any more information on this idea? Did it/will it work?

Charlie

C. R. Wright                                    Dept. of Genetics
+44 (0)1223 333970 telephone                    Univ. of Cambridge
+44 (0)1223 333992 telefax                      Downing Street, Cambs.
cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk                        CB2 3EH, England

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Jun 1995 09:52:59 -0400
From: berg@acf2.NYU.EDU (Jeff Berg)
Subject: Re: Rust Dissolvers

LANDROVER@delphi.com (Michael Loiodice) writes:

>I think I saw an ad for POR-15 in Hemmings Motor News once. I don't have a
>copy handy so I can't say for sure though..

I do have a copy handy - Nov. 1992 - from when I decided I wanted to buy a
Land-Rover.  (And figured I'd have it in a couple of weeks or so...HAH!)
Anyhow there is as ad in it for POR-15 gas tank sealer.  I assume it's the
same manufacturer so here's the info:

POR-15, Inc.
PO Box 1235
Morristown, NJ  07962-1235
1-800-45-POR15
FAX: 1-201-887-8007

Usual disclaimers apply.  I'd never even heard of the stuff until now.  Let
me know how it works, I might have a go at a little spot on my door tops.

Rgds.

JAB

==                                                                 ==
 Jeffrey A. Berg              Interactive Telecommunications Program
 Technical Administrator                         New York University
                          berg@acf2.nyu.edu
                          =================
               My garden is full of papayas and mangos.
          My dance card is filled with merengues and tangos.
                       Taste for the good life.
                      I can see it no other way.
                           --Jimmy Buffett, Lone Palm (live version)
==                                                                 ==

------------------------------

From: William Terry <wterry@sartre.minerva.bah.com>
Subject: Re. foam filters
Date: Wed, 14 Jun 1995 10:01:56 -0400 (EDT)

Actually, K&N filters aren't foam. They're oiled gauze. Foam filters are 
only as good as the size of the air passages which usually aren't that 
tiny. Also, over time the foam dries out, crumbles and gets sucked into 
the carbs. The guaze used in K&Ns is finer than foam. In addition, the 
oil, just like in a Series LR, catches stuff trying to get by. K&Ns need 
to be cleaned and reoiled regularly. I use them in my Lotus and did in my 
TVR when I had it. They work great, freer flowing than paper elements and 
better filtering. I would never use foam filters, personally, but K&Ns or 
good paper elements are fine for me (preferably the K&Ns).

Peace, Bill

______________W__i__l__l__i__a__m_____D__a__n_____T__e__r__r__y______________
  How do we acquire wisdom along with all these shiney things? (David Brin)

  wterry@sartre.minerva.bah.com
  http://glenfiddich.minerva.bah.com:8062/CyberJungle.html
  MINERVA Development Team, Booz, Allen & Hamilton

------------------------------

Date: 14 Jun 95 10:00:48 EDT
From: Pierce Reid <70004.4011@compuserve.com>
Subject: '94 D90 Clunks

Leland Wrote

>> After 4K miles (In 3 weeks of ownership) A clanking sound started
"after" shifting into 1st gear. I say after becuase it happens only
after the truck starts to move forward in 1st. It seems as though the
differential has not completely engaged. Also when I first bought
the trcuk I had problems with the differential gearshift slipping out
of high 4 weel drive. I would be driving along the freeway and I would
suddenly lose power, and would find that I was in neutral (diff neutral).

>> Does anyone know if this is normal?    

Like their predecessors, Land Rover D90 Drivetrains *do* clunk now and then if
you are not careful with the clutch.  Usually, it's only in first or when you
are al low revs and the engine starts jerking near stall.

However, the losing power and jumping out of high makes it sould like a trip to
the dealer (don;t you love warranty's) is in order.  

My D90 has been perfect... and I love it.  Congrats on the purchase!!!!  

Cheers, 

R. P. Reid

'62 IIa Military
'56 Si Fire Engine
'94 D90

------------------------------

Date: 14 Jun 95 10:00:36 EDT
From: Pierce Reid <70004.4011@compuserve.com>
Subject: Forward Control

TerriAnn:

There should be no problem bringing a pre '68 vehicle into the U.S.

I understand, BTW, that the customs regulations are changing so that now *any*
vehicole more than 25 years old can come in as a classic or antique.  That will
mean Series III's and the V8 Forward Controls will be importable soon!!!!!

The 110 Forward control is the one I want... We had one of these on a trip in
West Virginia and it went into a mud pit that stopped even the D90's in about 20
feet.  The driver plowed through like he was on a highway. He stopped half way
through (at which point we all gasped, knowing we were 5 miles from a road and
that there was *no* way to extricate the huge, heavy stuck vehicle).  The driver
leaned out the window and yelled "Just Kidding" and put it back into gear and
drove on out of the other end of the pit like nothing was there.  There was mud
up *over* the tires.  Unbelieveable vehicle!!!!!

Cheers, 

R. P. Reid

------------------------------

Date: 14 Jun 95 10:00:50 EDT
From: Pierce Reid <70004.4011@compuserve.com>
Subject: '94 D90 Security

Bill:

I always found the best security was a Harley Davidson bumper sticker and a
large,  *empty* Holster left in full view on the seat.  An empty speedloader
nearby makes a great statement as well.

Judging by a lot of the LR owners I know, anyone who messes with a Land Rover
(especially an old one) has a death-wish, anyway.

Cheers, 

R. P. Reid

------------------------------

From: kessels.bill=40ott01=40c14a#%forwarder@ey.geis.com
Date: Wed, 14 Jun 95 15:00:00 UTC
Subject: Winches for D90's

(LAN Addressees) LRO submissions
 
I have been looking into winches for my 94 D90.  Rovers North charges close to
$800U.S. for a Warn 9000lb winch, and $600 for the Defender mounting kit.  Do
I need the mounting kit, or is it just for looks?  Can I just bolt (or even
weld) the winch right to the bumper or does the mounting kit actually fasten
it to the frame?
 
Does anybody have any lower cost winch solutions?
 
Thanks in advance,
Bill Kessels
kesselsb@ey.geis.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Jun 95 11:12:25 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: IIa vs. III

          Greetings evryone! Being new to the digest and
          Rovers as well I thought I'd just jump right in
          with some questions. I'm in the market for a
          "Series" Land-Rover. I've been told by some that
          in general the Series IIa is "better". One of the
          reasons I have been given for this is that the IIa
          transmission is easier to repair due to the fact
          that some or all of the gears are removable from
          their shafts, and that on a III each shaft is all
          one cast piece, which would have to be replaced in
          its entirety, which sounds like an expensive
          proposition to say the least. So what costs more,
          dropping in a couple of new shafts on the SIII, or
          dismantlig the entire thing on a IIa? Also then
          there is the question of Synchro vs. non? It looks
          like the later IIa's have full synchro, so does
          this mean they have the same one piece gearshafts
          as the SeriesIII? Am I going batty or is this
          stuff actually important to consider? Does anybody
          else have any facts/opinions about which Series is
          a better choice; diesel vs. petrol; 109 vs. 88;
          etc... Series one is sort of out, too old for me,
          too scary with that Gas tank hangin out. It's
          gotta be a daily driver too. OK thats it, thanks
          all!
          David R. Bobeck,
          Exhibit Specialist,
          US Holocaust Museum, Washington DC USA
          Nothing yet but soon, very soon.
          dbobeck@ushmm.org
          *PS* If you've got any leads, let me know, I'll
          travel to VA, MD or PA to check it out if it
          sounds good.

------------------------------

From: Russell Burns <burns@cisco.com>
Subject: Range Rover winch 
Date: Wed, 14 Jun 95 8:13:37 PDT

I finaly put my winch to good use the other day. I found it was the
perfect tool to levitate the trusses for my barn. Trying to handle 24 foot
two story trusses with two to three people can be a chore.
A little engineering, a ramp, a winch, and presto 21 trusses levitated to their
proper places. Once the barn is in place, I should be able to house some
older Rovers.... (just don't tell my wife)

Russ Burns
94 d-90 (getting bumped, and painted)
91 Range Rover

------------------------------

From: Jeff Gauvin <jeffg@minerva.ncrmicro.ncr.com>
Subject: Defender-90 Tire Rub Normal?
Date: Wed, 14 Jun 95 10:06:31 MDT

I purchased a new '94 Defender 90 Hardtop just over two months ago.
I've put about 4200 mostly highway miles on it and am pretty happy so
far.  Sure, there have been a few "niggles" like missing or broken
fasteners here and there, and a few things have needed adjusting, but
nothing major, and everything has been taken care of under warantee and
with out question.  BTW - best highway mileage so far was almost 18 MPG
(65 MPH and no headwind).

But, since the day I drove it out of the showroom I've noticed a rather
disturbing "grinding" noise when the steering is at full-lock left.
Well, last night I figured out what was causing the noise.  When on a
flat surface with the steering at full lock left turn, the inside-rear
of the left front tire rubs against the radius arm.  The tires are the
stock BFG Mud Terrains on the "freestyle choice" alloy wheels.

Is this tire rub normal?  The right tire doesn't seem to rub at full
lock right.  What limits how far the wheels can turn, anyway?

A potential explanation is this:  given that the Panhard rod is tied to
the frame on the left, as the suspension travels downward the axle will
shift to the left and increase the left side tire-to-radius-arm
clearance and decrease the right side clearance, so the right is given
more initial clearance than the left.  Of course, the situation is
reversed when the suspension travels upward...

If this is not normal, how should it be fixed?  Of course I'll have the
dealer do the work, but I want to be sure that it is fixed properly.

I'm going to do my first "real" offroading this weekend when I drive
over Medano Pass to the Sand Dunes (Colorado, USA).  The Forest Service
says there is a lot of mud and the stream crossings are pretty deep :-)

Thanks in advance for your help!
--
Jeffrey J. Gauvin		email: jeff.gauvin@symbios.com
Symbios Logic Inc.		Voice: 719-573-3563
1635 Aeroplaza Dr.		FAX: 719-573-3824
Colorado Springs, CO 80916

------------------------------

From: JCassidyiv@aol.com
Date: Wed, 14 Jun 1995 12:37:01 -0400
Subject: Fwd: Re: Air Filters

---------------------
Forwarded message:
Subj:    Re: Air Filters
Date:    95-06-13 22:04:10 EDT
From:    JCassidyiv

I'm pretty sure that the study didn't use K+N because K+N are not foam
filters-they are "quality oiled  cotton gauze sandwiched between layers of
wire screen."  The filters need to be oiled and this in turn allows them to
trap very small dust particles.  The average foam air flow rate(as listed on
the K+N package) is 376cfm which includes the Amsoil and Unifilter.  A new
K+N filter, by comparison, has a rate of 88cfm(a used K+N with 42,000 miles
was 463cfm), and a paper filter(new) of 508cfm.  
         I have a Ducati motorcycle in which I placed a K+N filter without
hesitation and all my fellow riders due as well.  Many competitive off-road
racers use K+N filters with excellent results.  I'm not sure if they're
rebuilding their engines any sooner, but I suppose that they can afford too.
 All I know is that everyone who uses them experiences an increase in
horsepower and I myself have found an increase in gas mileage as well(which
is a welcome state of affairs with the V-8 engines).  With a Flowmaster
muffler and K+N air filter on my Chevy p/u truck, the mileage went from 14mpg
to 19mpg.  I can't argue with that.  I'd be interested to see what experience
other members of the list can share with us-thanks for your input.
               Cheers!   John Cassidy, Bangor, Maine

------------------------------

From: JCassidyiv@aol.com
Date: Wed, 14 Jun 1995 12:38:21 -0400
Subject: Air Filters-reply to twakeman

I'm pretty sure that the study didn't use K+N because K+N are not foam
filters-they are "quality oiled  cotton gauze sandwiched between layers of
wire screen."  The filters need to be oiled and this in turn allows them to
trap very small dust particles.  The average foam air flow rate(as listed on
the K+N package) is 376cfm which includes the Amsoil and Unifilter.  A new
K+N filter, by comparison, has a rate of 88cfm(a used K+N with 42,000 miles
was 463cfm), and a paper filter(new) of 508cfm.  
         I have a Ducati motorcycle in which I placed a K+N filter without
hesitation and all my fellow riders due as well.  Many competitive off-road
racers use K+N filters with excellent results.  I'm not sure if they're
rebuilding their engines any sooner, but I suppose that they can afford too.
 All I know is that everyone who uses them experiences an increase in
horsepower and I myself have found an increase in gas mileage as well(which
is a welcome state of affairs with the V-8 engines).  With a Flowmaster
muffler and K+N air filter on my Chevy p/u truck, the mileage went from 14mpg
to 19mpg.  I can't argue with that.  I'd be interested to see what experience
other members of the list can share with us-thanks for your input.
               Cheers!   John Cassidy, Bangor, Maine

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Jun 95 10:13:56 -0700
From: "TeriAnn Wakeman"  <twakeman@apple.com>
Subject: Re: 109 cab forwards

In message <199506140707.CAA22037@butler.uk.stratus.com> Mr Ian Stuart writes:
> To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net
> >  So TeriAnn, there are NO excuses not to get one or more!  If you like
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 11 lines)]
> hill and resting on it's nose crossing a ditch. These things are as 
> close to unstoppable as you can get :-)

A 101 would be ideal, but as far as I know a 101 can not legally be imported 
into the US.      

TeriAnn Wakeman              .sig closed for remodeling
twakeman@apple.com         
              
                         
                       

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Jun 1995 08:59:09 -1000 (HST)
From: Pat Guerin <pat@pixi.com>
Subject: Re: '94 D90 Clunks

I guess I noticed the same thing but I realized that it was probably my 
fault as I sometimes do not shift as well as I should....I love the car 
to death and look forward to many happy miles.....aloha

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Jun 1995 12:59:54 -0800
From: holland@catapent.com (Shannon Holland)
Subject: D90 Accessories

I'm getting pretty close to buying a new Defender 90 and have a couple of
questions regarding some of the accessories.

1. The "Engine Protection Plate". I presume the purpose of this is to
protect the engine from obtrusive rocks, etc. The dealer I'm working with
lists this at $579.00 Is this worh getting? Can I get the same thing
elsewhere later for less and install it myself?

2. Lamp guards. I see only rear lamp guards listed (for a mere $295.00!).
Can you get front mesh style guards as well? Is this another item that I'm
better off getting elsewhere?

3. Any other accessories people would recommend?

Thanks for any info. Hopefully I might have a new vehicle by the end of the
week!

shannon

------------------------------

From: "Russell G. Dushin" <dushinrg@pr.cyanamid.com>
Subject: Re: Air Filters-reply to twakeman
Date: Wed, 14 Jun 95 16:08:26 EDT

> to 19mpg.  I can't argue with that.  I'd be interested to see what experience
> other members of the list can share with us-thanks for your input.

Re: K&Ns......I have seen them completely caked with mud, dust, hay seed,
etc on the OUTside yet sparkling clean within.  Positively the most
impressive air cleaning element on the market (providing it is well
lubed with a suitable oil....a quality 30 wt. 2-stroke oil works just 
fine).  I like 'em so much we use 'em on the '39 9N.

rd/nige

------------------------------

Date: 14 Jun 95 16:55:44 EDT
From: "WILLIAM  L. LEACOCK" <75473.3572@compuserve.com>
Subject: Copy of: Re:Front wheel lube.

---------- Forwarded Message ----------

From:	WILLIAM  L. LEACOCK, 75473,3572
TO:	Mike Rooth, INTERNET:M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk
DATE:	6/14/95 4:52 PM

RE:	Copy of: Re:Front wheel lube.

I beg to differ. Oil from the swivel housing passes along the front outer
quarter shaft into the wheel hub through the stub axle bore. Early vehicles had
a lubrication hole in the drive flange for oil to be added but this was
discontinued. Service sheets do not show grease to the wheel bearings. Many
folks use grease when the swivel housing seals deteroirate and the oil is lost.
This is also a failing with free wheel hubs since the quarter shafts do not
rotate and fling oil to the swivel bearings and to the wheel bearings because
few people read the instructions to engage FWH weekly.
 Regards    Bill Leacock   Limey in exile.
 P.S. It is also good practice to put grease on the bearings at assembly, since
it will take a while for the oil to reach the bearings, eventually the oil and
grease will mix.
  This also applies to RR's. It is also good practise to check the oil levels
after a bearing clean/ change. I think the bearing assemblies take about 1/3 rd
pint of oil. each.

------------------------------

From: usssbkpy@ibmmail.com
Date: Wed, 14 Jun 1995 17:55:18 EDT

>From   : Paul M. Brodie
Address: USSSBKPY@IBMMAIL.COM
Subject: D90 and others ....
                                                            
Hello, all,

I've been receiving and reading through the digest for the past few
months, and have a few contributions to make:

1) To: Leland J Roys <roys@hpkel13.cup.hp.com>
   Re: 94 Defender 90

   NO - the clanking is not normal - have it looked at. I just had a
   similar noise problem fixed, which came up after a weekend trip to
   Cape Cod over the sand. It turned out that (according to the dealer)
   the emergency brake was rubbing against the rear drums. This caused
   the vehicle to sound as through something were still engaged when
   rolling forward in neutral. However, my 90 has never dropped out of
   gear, in either high or low diff.

2) To Stephen O'Hearn  <72700.3262@compuserve.com>
   Re: D90 Rear Seal Leak

   Thanks for the tip - I had mine in the shop when your note appeared on
   the digest. I faxed a copy of it to the mechanic, and they found that
   my rear seal was indeed leaking. Fortunately, they were able to take
   care of it while the car was in the shop. A most timely tip - many,
   many thanks !!

3) To: Pierce Reid <PREID@csi.compuserve.com>
   Re: LR Gun Box price (from last month)

   I just received a flyer from Rovers North. They are discounting the
   LR gun box to $350.00 through 6/30/95 - a bit cheaper than $405.00

4) To anyone who can help:

   My "significant other" has a 93 RR County, which has been having a
   problem with the engine *surging* when we're sitting at idle. I've
   had the boys from LRNA out to look at the problem twice (and they're
   coming again next week), but they can't seem to discover (no LR pun
   intended) what the problem is. If anyone has any suggestions, I'd
   appreciate hearing from you !

This is a GREAT forum - thank goodness I can get Internet mail onto my
mainframe (well, someone still has to be a "big iron" bigot ....)

Regards,                      +-------+
                              | BSROA |
  -- Paul                     +-------+
                                      |
                               #======#
                               |+--+|  \
                               |+--+|---\___
                               | _  |D90|_  |}
                        * * * ==(_)"""""(_)""
                                                            

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Jun 95 16:36:17 -0700
From: "TeriAnn Wakeman"  <twakeman@apple.com>
Subject: Re: Copy of: Re:Front wheel lube.

In message <199506142103.QAA23004@butler.uk.stratus.com> "WILLIAM  L. LEACOCK" 
writes:

When I first read your posting I disagreed untill I made a drawing.  It does 
look like there is a tenuous pathway through the inside of the stub axle to the 
inside of the freewheel hub sealed to the wheel mounting flange.  This cavity is
open to the outer bearings.  The felt seal keeps the oil from going to the outer
section of the freewheel hub and out to the outside world...hopefully.

Assuming oil levels are high enough, it would take a long time for the oil to 
flow to the inner wheel bearing and I suspect that oil shouldn't be relied upon 
for lubercation.  If you rely upon splash to get the oil into the stub axle I do
not see anything to force oil into the housing or to propel it along the axle to
the other side.

My IIA white workshop manual says to stuff the hub with grease. 

 When I get back from Europe and mount the swivel housing on the left side, I'll
add 90 wt to the swivel housing & see if the level is high enough to flow down 
the stub axle housing.

Just had a thought.  If one were to puncture the upper part of the seal going 
between the axle housing and the swivel housing, it should allow any pressure 
buildup to go up the axle breather and not out the bearing seal  Any thoughts?

: RE:	Copy of: Re:Front wheel lube.
: 
: I beg to differ. Oil from the swivel housing passes along the front outer
: quarter shaft into the wheel hub through the stub axle bore. Early vehicles 
: had
: a lubrication hole in the drive flange for oil to be added but this was
: discontinued. Service sheets do not show grease to the wheel bearings. Many
: folks use grease when the swivel housing seals deteroirate and the oil is 
: lost.

TeriAnn Wakeman              .sig closed for remodeling
twakeman@apple.com         
              
                         
                       

------------------------------

Date: 14 Jun 95 22:28:54 EDT
From: "Stephen O'Hearn" <72700.3262@compuserve.com>
Subject: 94 Defender 90 Transfer Case

Never had problems with the transfer case popping
out. Kind of sounds as if the shift lever is allowed
full motion. Maybe an adjustment problem? I'd
look in the workshop manual but unfortunately I
don't have it with me right now.

- Stephen

+--------------------------------------------------------------------------+
| Stephen O'Hearn               1994        LAND-            Tread Lightly |
| El Segundo, CA, USA         DEFENDER        -ROVER         on Public and |
| 72700.3262@compuserve.com      90     The Best 4x4xFar     Private Lands |
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------+

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From: hugh@nezsdc.fujitsu.co.nz
Date: Thu, 15 Jun 1995 15:16:55 +1200
Subject: ET progress report

My old 88" still doesn't have a name.  In the decade it's been in the
family nothing ever stuck.  Let's just call her 'ET', after her plates
(ET3168).  If that's good enough for old FVJ it's good enough for ET.

Anyway, progress has been slow but sure:

Brakes - Bill mentioned that the 88's front wheel cylinders are 1 1/4".
Well spotted, they are indeed.  So the new 1 1/16" cyls have gone onto
the rear end.  Going up a 16th on the rear works out to a 5% increase
in volume overall, so 5% more pedal travel.  But factor in the new
copper brake lines, new flexi hoses, new seals on the front cylinders,
and new fluid of course, and I should get that 5% back plus some.  I
didn't start out intending to replace all that much, but got carried
away while dismantling last night (TeriAnn can probably relate to
that!).  The new cylinders also have a metric thread so new ends had to
go on to the rear lines anyway.  I'm getting the rear drums machined,
but have put off doing the front since I might try to get hold of a 109
11" assembly for the front.  But that opens a whole can'o'worms about
the master cylinder bore, servo or not, dual or single circuit.  Cripes,
I'll sleep on that one.

Tools - Doing the brakes finally gave me a good excuse to buy an impact
screwdriver (for some stuck brake drum set screws).  Cool tool.

Steering - In the meantime I fitted new tie rod ends to the draglink.
That should tighten up the steering immensely.  But damn, those ends
are hard to get out of the rod!  Refitting was straightforward, except
that one of the new ends was fitted with a nylock nut which just caused
the threaded section to rotate within the joint instead of staying put,
so the nut couldn't cut its thread; got it in the end with the
imaginative use of a hacksaw and screwdriver.  Then I removed a couple
of shims from the RH swivel assembly to tighten that up.  There's still
a bit much play in the bearings though.  I suppose the leaky swivel
housing oil seals may have something to do with that.  While doing this
I noticed something curious: the LH swivel pin is fixed in its bush in
the chrome ball and rotates within its locating block, while the RH pin
is fixed in the block and rotates in the bush.  Both have now been
adjusted recently, so neither have any free play.  Which is correct?
Might the other one wear out prematurely if I don't fix it up?

Engine - reconditioning the old Holden might cost as much as $1500.
Heck, I could get a newly recond 202 for $1000, or a Rover 3.5 V8 for
$2000.  Or even a diesel for ~$2000.  Still undecided.  I'll probably
just limp on with the 179 for a while yet.  (If anybody says "you'd be
mad to use/not use an XXXX" then I'm listening...) 

Tranny - The next thing to look at is the overdrive, which seems to be
loosing oil into the transfer box.  Either that or the gearbox is the
one leaking into the t'box, and the overdrive is the one oiling the
frame.  With any luck I'll get time tonight to take a closer look.

-- 
Hugh Grierson  hugh@fujitsu.co.nz              Nuke Chirac

------------------------------

Subject: Re Robin Craig, Canada
From: rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (Robin Craig)
Date: Wed, 14 Jun 95 21:11:23 -0500

If anyone is trying to raise me by posting to the net rather than to me 
directly I wont be watching there.

There is too much on the system and with current difficulties in gaining 
access to the system here I only get on about 2 - 3 times a week. 

When I see 345 new messages on the screen I normally only dip into the 
most recent 5 - 10.

Sorry but thats life. Happy rovering

Robin Craig

--
Robin Craig, rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Ottawa, Ont. |  Ottawa Valley Land Rovers

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  END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST 
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