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msg | Sender | lines | Subject |
1 | Mike Rooth [M.J.Rooth@lu | 13 | Re: Split rims |
2 | rrudder@rain.org (Robert | 6 | Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest |
3 | Charlie Wright [cw117@mo | 18 | Re: Re Directional Tread |
4 | [Glen_Rees@parlon2.ccmai | 37 | Not Kodiak Heaters |
5 | Carl Byrne [SPECBB@cardi | 43 | Oil seals and 1949 80" |
6 | Easton Trevor [TEASTON@D | 24 | Batteries and Ignition |
7 | Stephen Thomas [THOMSE-U | 26 | Dave's IIa, and those that follow it. |
8 | Easton Trevor [TEASTON@D | 67 | FW: Storage - in a bag... |
9 | "Tom Rowe" [TROWE@AE.AGE | 24 | Re: Split rims |
10 | Brian Neill Tiedemann [s | 42 | bearings... |
11 | William Terry [wterry@sa | 24 | was Re. Brazilian Landy owners now LR in Latin America |
12 | kessels.bill=40ott01=40c | 31 | D90 Security |
13 | "Russell G. Dushin" [dus | 74 | correction |
14 | Pierce Reid [70004.4011@ | 20 | Split Rims |
15 | NADdMD@aol.com | 15 | Brakes |
16 | lenagham@bachman.com | 16 | Rust Dissolvers |
17 | DEBROWN@SRP.GOV | 34 | Offer on the Discovery... |
18 | chrisste@clark.net (Chri | 19 | Broken Studs on Exhaust |
19 | JCassidyiv@aol.com | 15 | Air Filters |
20 | Leland J Roys [roys@hpke | 26 | 94 Defender 90 |
21 | "TeriAnn Wakeman" [twak | 35 | Re: Air Filters |
22 | "TeriAnn Wakeman" [twak | 21 | 109 cab forwards |
23 | chris.youngson@deepcove. | 17 | RUST DISSOLVERS |
24 | rover@pinn.net (Alexande | 18 | Nigel's Disease, again |
25 | rlarson@lsil.com (Rick L | 38 | Re: 94 Defender 90 |
26 | cs@crl.com (Michael Carr | 34 | Re: 109 cab forwards |
27 | cs@crl.com (Michael Carr | 50 | Re: Brakes |
28 | Craig Murray [craigp@ocs | 26 | Re: 109 cab forwards |
29 | PAUL.NASH@AG.ausgovag.te | 40 | Holden conversions & Canberra spares |
30 | LANDROVER@delphi.com | 21 | Re: Rust Dissolvers |
31 | Craig Murray [craigp@ocs | 46 | Re: bearings... |
32 | LANDROVER@delphi.com | 28 | Re: Broken Studs on Exhaust |
33 | Mr Ian Stuart [Ian.Stuar | 18 | Re: 109 cab forwards |
From: Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk> Subject: Re: Split rims Date: Tue, 13 Jun 95 9:31:31 BST Hang about a minute,Bill.Your front wheel bearings may be lubricated by oil from the swivel housings,but mine certainly arent.There's no connection between the housings and the wheel bearings,which are grease lubricated. Cheers Mike Rooth ------------------------------[ <- Message 2 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950614 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 13 Jun 1995 01:34:39 -0800 From: rrudder@rain.org (Robert) Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest lists ------------------------------[ <- Message 3 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950614 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 13 Jun 1995 11:11:37 +0059 (BST) From: Charlie Wright <cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk> Subject: Re: Re Directional Tread > It was written > assisted by the roadway curvature, brushes the road debris to the right edge > of the roadway, and then your right front tire runs over the nail or screw > or whatever and flips it up on end so it can puncture your right rear tire. > Perhaps this is relevant to the tread direction question that was being To complicate things, I'm taking this from U.K. to U.S. shortly, so I'll have to reverse the calculations (and take round-abouts out of the figures) when I ship it anyway. I think the original suggestion that I just put the spare on 'inside out' was probably the most accurate. Charlie ------------------------------[ <- Message 4 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950614 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: 13 Jun 95 07:13:07 EDT From: <Glen_Rees@parlon2.ccmail.compuserve.com> Subject: Not Kodiak Heaters Croeso, The following excerpt is from "Land Rover Series One Club Newsletter" and I thought it might be of interest. Referring to the Smiths round heaters. "If you examine the maker's plate on the side of your heater you should find an official rating figure. This will consist of a number (probably '2' in the case of a Morris Minor heater, same as Land Rover) followed by the letters 'MB'. On old heaters, 'MB' was used to measure the output in the same way that 'HP' (for Horse Power) measures the engine output. 'MB' actually stands for 'Mouse Breath', so the output of a 2MB heater ought to be the equivalent of two mice breathing hard on your knees." Since no mouse can breath continuously, do they actually mean that 2MB equals one continuos mouse breath - or is it in reality the output of two pairs of mice breathing alternately - and is it possible to tell the difference? After all, no reference is made to the optimum distance between the mouse's nostrils and the driver's knee, and bearing in mind the air conditioning in a Land Rover, it would need very sensitive equipment to tell the difference between a single heavy breathing mouse or a whole regiment of them panting in anticipation of an orgy! R 1 3 H +--|--| FWD | 2 4 L '55 Series One Glenn ------------------------------[ <- Message 5 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950614 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Carl Byrne <SPECBB@cardiff.ac.uk> Date: Tue, 13 Jun 1995 12:18:47 GMT Subject: Oil seals and 1949 80" Does anybody have any experience with the semi-floating axle fitted to pre 53 LandRovers. I have a 1949 80" and the near side (the longer half-shaft!) oil seal on the rear axle keeps leaking regardless of what I do. All the obvious has been done:- * new leather type seal fitted - I have also tried modern neoprene seals * there is no wear groove in retaining collar and the surface is very smooth (ground) * a new bearing has been fitted * the drain holes in axle hub are clear * the axle breather is clear * I have even tried lowering the oil level in axle * I refrain from parking the vehicle on a camber. My brother has a similar vehicle and he too has the same problem on the longer half shaft. I do about 5000 miles a year so it is not a pampered vehicle and this problem is begining to really bug me. I am even thinking of fitting a later fully floating axle. I believe that this must be a common problem and if so there must be a recognised cure. Any pearls of wisdom???? Regards Carl 1949 80" 1995 Discovery 300 TDI Dr. Carl Byrne University of Wales College of Cardiff, Wales. UK. ------------------------------[ <- Message 6 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950614 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Easton Trevor <TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA> Subject: Batteries and Ignition Date: Tue, 13 Jun 95 08:04:00 DST James Howard wrote about his experience with a dead battery. If the battery is totally dead neither a kingston or CD ignition will work. Only a magneto which uses permenant magnets to generate the field will start. (No batteries on lawn mowers, chain saws etc) Similarly the alternator won't work either because it has no field. Because there was a residual voltage to drive the field then rolling down the hill enabled the alternator to gradually build up some potential in the battery and because it was a CD ignition it could generate a spark at lower voltages than the points ignition. Back in my college days I can remember using a couple of lantern batteries to provide enough juice for the ignition to start the E Type (Morris E series) and avoiding the major expense of a new battery for months. Next time (But you won't do it again . Will you?) disconnect the coil for a while during the initial charging "roll out" then you'll save the power until your ready to reconnect and try again. As a caution, remember that as you roll along in gear with no ignition you're filling your entire exhaust system with explosive mixture. A good recipe for split mufflers when your finally start. Trevor Easton - Miss Golightly - 1962 SWB SW ------------------------------[ <- Message 7 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950614 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Stephen Thomas <THOMSE-U@m4-arts.bham.ac.uk> Date: 13 Jun 95 13:39:09 GMT Subject: Dave's IIa, and those that follow it. Dave I think that the way your IIa distracts those that follow it really goes to show what a really eye-cathching vehicle you must have, obviously it's a real stunner. However I'm not so sure that the (somewhat dubious) adulation which it appears to be receiving, and the obvious pride that you feel as a result, should close your eyes to the possibility of damage which is a little less than visible. I know how strong the chassis on our IIa's are, but impacts of the kind you describe can conceivably lead to twisted or compressed chassis rails; and although it was very charitable of you to be concerned about the possibility of the other driver getting a caution, maybe just taking his details in case you find chassis damage would be a good idea? On a somewhat lighter note, the whole problem can be sorted out by changing the stop light switch in the brake line, worked for me :). We should have our IIa back by the end of the week, with a recon 2.25 diesel. We towed it up to the place with our friends DIY IIa V8 hybrid, and some people say that *diesels* are noisy......sheeesh! Stephen ------------------------------[ <- Message 8 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950614 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Easton Trevor <TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA> Subject: FW: Storage - in a bag... Date: Tue, 13 Jun 95 09:10:00 DST There was a thread recently about long term storage. This was forwarded to me and may be of interest. Personally I prefer to use my vehicles not keep them in bags, but needs must prevail. ---------- From: Kekenj Jim Subject: FW: Storage - in a bag... Date: Tuesday, June 13, 1995 8:05AM ---------- From: ac623 Subject: Storage - in a bag... Date: Monday, June 12, 1995 11:04AM As promised, here is info I acquired through a contact made on the rec.auto.tech newsgroup. I must apologise that I don't have the name/address of the originator. ======================================================================== The only answer is the Omnibag - that is a bag big enough to put your car in. I'm currently storing 4 old Mustangs in them. So far, after 3 years use, the cars are perfect. My storage unit is a newer construction, concrete floor, high humidity situation. I learned my lesson the hard way - stored a perfectly restored 1970 Boss 302 for half a year during the humid spring season. Everything got bad surface rust - brake rotors, bare suspension components, even the fresh aluminum parts started to pit with white deposits. All the cars have been put into Omnibags and there have been NO humidity of condensation symptoms since. Only problem is getting all the gas out of the car. The Omnibag folks say the gas fumes are ok and will slowly leak through the bag material, but gas fumes are corrosive and don't seem like something you want your car soaking in over the winter. The Omnibag is a triple layer, gray polyethelene bag that comes in three sizes. Small is Miata size, medium swallows an old Mustang and other medium size cars nicely, large will handle any car. They might also sell a van size, but the thought of handling such a large bag sounds like a real pain. With practice, I've been able to get a car into the bag by myself within 30 minutes. For the gas fume problem I've been either draining the tank completely, or you can also go to the auto parts store and find a newer design gas cap that has no vents. Also, change the oil, check the radiator fluid for freshness and anti-rust, fog the engine with a fogger spray, add some extra air pressure to the tires, and maybe pour a can of water pump lube into the coolant, and remove the battery. Then a car can be stored for many years. If they are still at the same location, the last phone number I have for the Omnibag folks is: 517-641-4881. Price was $89.95 last year, and the bags include packets of dessicant to absort moisture from the air, plus 3 clamps to hold the end shut. -- Ross Gunn, Ottawa, Canada Voice: 613-746-1817 FAX/Modem: 613-748-6077 ------------------------------[ <- Message 9 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950614 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU> Date: Tue, 13 Jun 1995 08:06:51 GMT -0600 Subject: Re: Split rims Bill Leacock wrote regarding his disdain for split rims. I have them for my lightweight and I do two things. 1) make sure the valve core is out before breaking them; 2) put NeverSeeze on the threads (as I do on my lug studs). That way I don't blow my head off beaking the rim apart, and the studs don't rust. NeverSeeze is the best anti-seeze compund I've found, but make sure it's the real thing, there are immitations out there. As far as idiots breaking the rims with air in them, I believe in personal responsibility. I've been seriously hurt in the past by various endeavours, but most of the time it was my own carelessness, I don't expect anyone else to be responsible for me. So I guess to each their own. Tom Tom Rowe UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research 608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578 Four wheel drive allows you to get trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu stuck in places even more inaccessible. ------------------------------[ <- Message 10 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950614 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Brian Neill Tiedemann <s914440@minyos.xx.rmit.EDU.AU> Subject: bearings... Date: Tue, 13 Jun 1995 23:41:04 +1000 (EST) Hi all, Just a note to query a comment i read in yesterday's list. In discussion about wheel bearing lubrication, Bill Limey mentions diff oil and swivel housing oil being the providers.... My question: in my RR manual (and Haynes) there is mention of grease packing bearings during hub assembly. I have done this on separate past occasions for the front and rear bearings.... is this different to LR? Also, the swivel ball seals (rubber) are packed during assembly with grease... again from manual(s). The seals did _not_ leak for a very long time with lots of mudding up then washing, but have just lately started to weep a little (since last front diff+swivel oil change). Note that the bearings are still completely exposed to the swivel or diff oil, just packed with disc brake type wheel bearing grease as well. Do you LRO's use grease too? Any reasons why not? My thoughts of why it is done have only come to the heat generated by the disc/hub assy. during braking. (cf. drum..further from friction+heat to bearings). Also (i think) grease may be a bit better for high pressure lubrication?? Doesn't seem to be any clash of compatibility between EP gear oil and the grease tho, it stays greasi (so far). Another sideline, this Salisbury diff line of Qs ive been flying... Has anyone made their own locker for same...I have started to make up one using orig. sized axles (24 spline 1.25") but now am toying with the idea of 31 spline 1.5" axles (it's a ford spline). How hard do you (I) have to try to break a std. axle or strip a drive flange? Think its worth the extra $$ and hassle? (must use larger stubs to fit an axle this thick plus broaching gears and flanges etc. not to mention the axles themselves) I want it to break NEVER but is this too much?? So far the standard stuff seems OK and is a vast improvement over the stock (spiral bevel) rover diff and toy 10 spline axles. Seeya (no time for mobile sig.....##@$* exams!) Leaks but I luv it. 77 RR Brian. ------------------------------[ <- Message 11 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950614 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: William Terry <wterry@sartre.minerva.bah.com> Subject: was Re. Brazilian Landy owners now LR in Latin America Date: Tue, 13 Jun 1995 09:57:38 -0400 (EDT) I spent a month in Costa Rica in Dec - Jan. The most common vehicle I saw was LR. I did see lots of LCs, but I think there were more LRs. Like the previous observation, most were 88s. I did see some 109SWs out in the country. Also many of the LRs were Santanas. The LRs came in almost any color imaginable. And while I'm on the subject... In "Congo" there also appeared to be a military LR with a form similar to the SAS/Pink Panther (though the green version). It was only a glimpse of a wing when the main characters' Unimog is stopped by a military contingincy and Amy, the gorilla, is discovered by a soldier peeping under the canvas. ______________W__i__l__l__i__a__m_____D__a__n_____T__e__r__r__y______________ How do we acquire wisdom along with all these shiney things? (David Brin) wterry@sartre.minerva.bah.com http://glenfiddich.minerva.bah.com:8062/CyberJungle.html MINERVA Development Team, Booz, Allen & Hamilton ------------------------------[ <- Message 12 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950614 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: kessels.bill=40ott01=40c14a#%forwarder@ey.geis.com Date: Tue, 13 Jun 95 15:05:00 UTC Subject: D90 Security (LAN Addressees) LRO submissions I park my 94 D90 (of which a cost per KM was not part of the purchase rationalization process--or I would still be driving my '84 Volvo) outside in downtown Ottawa. The biggest security risk is Kids trying to hotwire it, Prostitutes using it as a place of business and bums using it to sleep. To counter this I had an alarm installed (yes, I know they are annoying) which has all the doors and the hood wired and a motion sensor inside in case one of the drunks can't figure the door out and unzips the cloth top and climbs in. In order to reduce the annoyance to my neighbours I have a two stage alarm which gives a warning chirp for light impacts and jolts--reducing false alarms by allowing the sensitivity of the main alarm to be turned down. It also has an ignition kill so that it is terribly difficult to hot wire it once the alarm has gone off. The company who installed it said that they would be surprised if someone could hot wire it anyway---there was so much steel under the dash that they had to be a contortionist to do the wiring. They also said it was the most difficult install they had ever done--there is nowhere to hide wiring on the inside of the Rover. So far it has only gone off twice--and I haven't found any damage (or used condoms)! Bill ------------------------------[ <- Message 13 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950614 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Russell G. Dushin" <dushinrg@pr.cyanamid.com> Subject: correction Date: Tue, 13 Jun 95 10:30:09 EDT BANTER ALERT: Next 68 lines Oi, I dug myself into a deep one here.... In my haste to get to the point of the post I neglected to consider my reasoning and lost track of those units-a mistake that sifts out the D's from the F's in 'merican schools. I'll blame it on all the 90 weight I've been drinkin'. What can I say? Pretty sad for a guy who aced Differential Equations 17 years ago.... Let's go through these calculations again, shall we?.... IF: [(purchase cost of a 90) + (maintanence of a 90) + (insurance of a 90) + (guzzoline of the 90)] = [(purchase cost of Nigel) + (maintanence of Nigeboy) + (insurance for Nige) + (guzzoline of daNige)] AND, assuming: (insurance of a 90) = (insurance for Nige), (maintanence of a 90) = (maintanence of Nigeboy), and that I don't incur any costs whatsoever resulting from the tragic occurances upon the vehicles of others due to the dreaded "Nigel's Disease" (sorry folks, I just cannot bear the responsibility), AND, given: (purchase cost of a 90) = $20K (purchase cost of Nigel) = $2.3K THEN: ($20K) + (guzzoline of the 90) = ($2.3K) + (guzzoline of daNige) or, $17.7K = (guzzoline of daNige) - (guzzoline of the 90) Now, (and this was where I really blew it badly)- SINCE: cost of (guzzoline) = (gallons used) x (dollars/gallon) = (total miles) x (1/miles per gallon) x (dollars/gallon) AND: the total miles for each are the same (ie Nigel can go anywhere the 90 can go), Nigel gets about 11mpg, the 90 around 14mpg and the current rate for gas in the northeastern US is roughly $1.35/gal THEN: $17.7K = [(X miles) x (1 gallon/11 miles) x ($1.35/gallon)] - [(X miles) x (1 gallon/14 miles) x ($1.35/gallon)] solving for X......(like you really care) $17.7K = $0.1227X - $0.0964X, X = 17.7K/.0263 X = 673K miles (that I'd have to drive a D90 to break even on the investment) Check my math-I didn't give jack for consideration to significant figures...'tis that kind of thing that separates the As from the Bs in 'merican schools.... And I'll leave it to you Europeans to figure out how high the cost of petrol has to go before you can do it in under 100K miles. Now, assuming it takes 20% more time to get there.....and that I'll meet 20% more women on the way.....and that the D90 will be doing 45 mph on average all day long every day while I'm over there checking them out....then, then...... You got the message, though, rd/nige ------------------------------[ <- Message 14 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950614 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: 13 Jun 95 08:35:42 EDT From: Pierce Reid <70004.4011@compuserve.com> Subject: Split Rims The split Rims were also used on Military Rovers for a long time after they were discontinued on Civilian models. Even late Series III Lightweights had split rims. Reason is that they are easier to repair under arduous conditions. I have them on my Military and they are fine... I keep my offroad unidirectional tires mounted on them. Deflate completely before disassembling *and* remove the valve insert. That ensures that you will not have a rim fly off when you unbolt it. Hope this helps, Cheers, R. P. Reid ------------------------------[ <- Message 15 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950614 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: NADdMD@aol.com Date: Tue, 13 Jun 1995 11:30:12 -0400 Subject: Brakes In the LRO FAQ, it states that oil on the inside of the wheel indicates the inner oil seal is bad and and therefore, the brake is bad as well. I don't understand how a bad inner hub seal will cause the brake on that wheel to be bad as well. Any explanations? I'll mention that my right rear wheel ('67 SIIa 88") has old oil on the inner aspect but that the brakes seem to function very well. Nate Dunsmore Boring, MD USA NADdMD@aol.com ------------------------------[ <- Message 16 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950614 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 13 Jun 95 13:29:08 EST From: lenagham@bachman.com Subject: Rust Dissolvers There was an article in the latest copy of the Land Rover Owners International magazine about a test on 2 products that dissolved rust. One product was called Corrodip and the other POR-15, does anyone know if these products are available in the U.S. ? The Corrodip product also received a very good write up in the first edition of Land Rover World. Thanks Mike ------------------------------[ <- Message 17 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950614 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 13 Jun 95 10:32:01 MST From: DEBROWN@SRP.GOV Subject: Offer on the Discovery... FROM: David Brown Internet: debrown@srp.gov Computer Graphics Specialist * Mapping Services & Engr Graphics PAB219 (602)236-3544 - Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486 SUBJECT: Offer on the Discovery... I've been offered $28,250 for my 1994 Land-Rover Discovery, black, LOADED (leather, dual air, dual sun roofs, rino bar, rear guards, 7 seats, tinted windows, etc...) 16,600 miles. So.... What do you think? Should I take it and be done with it all? After all, it's not appreciating any while I wait... Please reply ASAP. I'll probably call him back Tonight or Tomorrow... Thanks, Dave (perplexed) Brown #=====# #========# -------,___ |___|__\___ |___|__|__\___ |--' | | \_|_ | _ | |_ |} | _ | | |_ |} | _ |--+--|_ | "(_)""""(_)" "(_)"""""""(_)" ||_/_\___|__/_\_|} (_) (_) 1971 "88" IIa 1970 "109" IIa 1994 Discovery (for sale $30,500) (Too hard to "draw") #=======# Never doubt that a small group of individuals |__|__|__\___ can change the world... indeed, it's the only | _| | |_ |} thing that ever has. "(_)""""""(_)" -Margaret Mead ------------------------------[ <- Message 18 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950614 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 13 Jun 1995 16:26:06 -0500 From: chrisste@clark.net (Chris Stevens) Subject: Broken Studs on Exhaust The center top stud for the exhaust manifold is sheared off in the cylinder head and needs to be replaced. Same thing has bappened with an exit stud on tbe front exhaust pipe. Anyone know the prescription for getting these things out? Do I drill them? Blast? Take it to Midas? Chris Chris Stevens 1969 SRIIA 88" SW BCG Corporate Communications Towson, Maryland, USA (410) 583-1722 (410) 583-1935 (FAX) chrisste@Clark.net ------------------------------[ <- Message 19 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950614 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: JCassidyiv@aol.com Date: Tue, 13 Jun 1995 17:11:54 -0400 Subject: Air Filters For all those who want to let their Disco's and Range Rovers breathe easier, the folks at Rover's North just sent me the K+N air filters which fit. The Discovery takes the #33-2625 filter which is originally for a Porsche 944 turbo. The filter for the Range Rover is #E-2350 which is originally for a Fiat X-19. K+N has no specific listing in it's catalog for Land Rover products and my local dealer had no idea what would fit. In case you don't know about the K+N filters, they are good for 100,000 miles and need to be cleaned, not replaced! Cheers! John ------------------------------[ <- Message 20 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950614 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Leland J Roys <roys@hpkel13.cup.hp.com> Subject: 94 Defender 90 Date: Tue, 13 Jun 95 14:23:46 PDT Hello All, This is my first time asking a question so I hope I did this right. I just purchased a new 1994 Defender-90 I love the truck (already been in the mud). I do have one question. After 4K miles (In 3 weeks of ownership) A clanking sound started "after" shifting into 1st gear. I say after becuase it happens only after the truck starts to move forward in 1st. It seems as though the differential has not completely engaged. Also when I first bought the trcuk I had problems with the differential gearshift slipping out of high 4 weel drive. I would be driving along the freeway and I would suddenly lose power, and would find that I was in neutral (diff neutral). Does anyone know if this is normal? Leland Roys roys@cup.hp.com Cupertino California ------------------------------[ <- Message 21 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950614 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 13 Jun 95 15:53:30 -0700 From: "TeriAnn Wakeman" <twakeman@apple.com> Subject: Re: Air Filters In message <199506132113.QAA21655@butler.uk.stratus.com> writes: ; For all those who want to let their Disco's and Range Rovers breathe easier, ; the folks at Rover's North just sent me the K+N air filters which fit. The ; Discovery takes the #33-2625 filter which is originally for a Porsche 944 ; turbo. The filter for the Range Rover is #E-2350 which is originally for a ; Fiat X-19. K+N has no specific listing in it's catalog for Land Rover ; products and my local dealer had no idea what would fit. In case you don't ; know about the K+N filters, they are good for 100,000 miles and need to be ; cleaned, not replaced! I don't remember which list had a thread on foam filters, but I think it was the Triumph list..so here goes. We had a big discussion on the effectivness of foam filters & someone in the group worked for a company that made a study on earth moving equipment and the effect of foam verses paper elements. The company wanted to go to foam and save the high cost of constantly replacing clogged paper elements. I believe K&N elements were used in the study as representing the best foam filter elements. Bottom line is that the foam filters let in a LOT more dirt particals than the paper did resulting in the earth moving equipment needing to have engines rebuilt after a lot fewer hours. It was more cost effective to frequently replace paper elements than to frequently clean foam elements. TeriAnn Wakeman .sig closed for remodeling twakeman@apple.com ------------------------------[ <- Message 22 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950614 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 13 Jun 95 16:04:01 -0700 From: "TeriAnn Wakeman" <twakeman@apple.com> Subject: 109 cab forwards I was looking in the back of the Rovers North catalogue and noticed that 109 cab forwards went into production about 1962. Does anyone know if any were officially imported to the US?? Anyone know if a slightly disassembled pre-1966 109 cab forward might have any problems getting into the US or getting registered in the California? I was thinking of a rolling chasis with bed attached minus front body & engine? Anyone know where the ID numbers are on a 109 cab forward? Just wondering TeriAnn Wakeman .sig closed for remodeling twakeman@apple.com ------------------------------[ <- Message 23 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950614 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: chris.youngson@deepcove.com Date: Tue, 13 Jun 95 16:20:08 Subject: RUST DISSOLVERS With regards to rust dissolvers: Oxysolve, availible at most tool places, is the sames stuff as the one you mention. It leaves a coating of zinc phosphate. It takes a long times to rust in the outdoors. I have a gallon of this stuff. If you wants faster more thorough results use muriatic acid, just make sure you do it outdoors and neutralize the acid with a water/baking soda wash afterwards. This is what I use most of the time because it's cheap and sometimes I don't want a zinc coating. 73 Chris Youngson, West Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada ------------------------------[ <- Message 24 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950614 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 13 Jun 1995 19:25:53 -0500 From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice) Subject: Nigel's Disease, again Okay gang, we gotta get something straight...no more talkin' about things that break down, fall off or go bump in the night. No sooner did someone mention that their electric oil pressure sending unit failed that *mine* packed in. Crimony, only 201,000 miles on it...hardly broken in. I know that the resistance for the fuel sender is 3 to 35 ohms; any idea on the range for the pressure sending unit so I can scrounge a replacement? *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----* | A. P. (Sandy) Grice | | Rover Owners' Association of Virginia | | 1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730 | | E-mail: rover@pinn.net Phone: 804-622-7054 (Day) | | 804-423-4898 (Evenings) FAX: 804-622-7056 | *-----------------------------------------------------* ------------------------------[ <- Message 25 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950614 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 13 Jun 95 16:11:56 PDT From: rlarson@lsil.com (Rick Larson) Subject: Re: 94 Defender 90 >From: Leland J Roys <roys@hpkel13.cup.hp.com> >Subject: 94 Defender 90 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 27 lines)] >roys@cup.hp.com >Cupertino California Mine doesn't do it. The only time it has ever slipped out of high was during a really long downhill run, after a day of driving in 4 lo. I just assumed I hadn't got the transfer case selector fully engaged in hi. Enjoy. The only real problem I've experience so far has been that the attention the D90 receives from others (cute blonds excepted of course) gets a bit annoying after a while. I'm thinking about getting a FAQ printed up to hand out at stop lights and parking lots. It's not a Jeep. It's not a Hummer. It's a Land Rover Defender. It's made in England. Yes, that is the same company that makes Range Rovers. It's a 3.9L V8 and, yes, the mileage does suck. No,the bumper and winch aren't stock. No, much less than $50K, about $30K. No, it's not lifted, it comes with these tires stock. Yes, it's great off road, noisy on road. etc......... -Rick '94 D90 Richard Larson LSI Logic Corporation (408) 433-7149 ------------------------------[ <- Message 26 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950614 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 13 Jun 1995 16:55:13 +0100 From: cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine) Subject: Re: 109 cab forwards TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@apple.com> writes: >I was looking in the back of the Rovers North catalogue and noticed that >109 cab forwards went into production about 1962. Does anyone know if any [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)] >getting registered in the California? I was thinking of a rolling chasis >with bed attached minus front body & engine? Anything 1967 and before will have NO problem. In fact, up to 1970 will have no problem except for petrol models requiring the addition of an PCV valve in an air hose from the valve cover to the carburetor air intake. For 1971 and 1972 petrol models ad a carbon canister, an air hose from the petrol tank to the carbon canister intake, and an air hose from the carbon canister output to the PVC valve. Diesel models have no requirements until 1974 or so. Of course 1968 and later petrol models will require biannual SMOG inspections. So TeriAnn, there are NO excuses not to get one or more! If you like Forward Controls, you may also want to look into Unimogs. :) >Anyone know where the ID numbers are on a 109 cab forward? Probably on the front of the frame like the 109 or 88. Michael Carradine Carradine Studios Tel.500-442-6500 Architect Architecture Development Planning Pgr.510-945-5000 NCARB RIBA PO Box 99, Orinda, CA 94563 USA cs@crl.com Mercedes-Benz Unimog 4x4 WWW page at: http://www.crl.com/~cs/unimog.html ------------------------------[ <- Message 27 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950614 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 13 Jun 1995 17:33:20 +0100 From: cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine) Subject: Re: Brakes Nate Dunsmore <NADdMD@aol.com> writes: >In the LRO FAQ, it states that oil on the inside of the wheel indicates the >inner oil seal is bad and and therefore, the brake is bad as well. I don't >understand how a bad inner hub seal will cause the brake on that wheel to be >bad as well. Any explanations? The oil on the inside of the wheel is coming from the inside of the brake drum, after leaking there from the center of the hub where the seal to the axle is. As the oil leaks out it drips onto the drum, spins around, and attaches to the brake shoes facing the drum. Oil on the shoe surface against the drums is not recommended for obvious reasons, and very hard to clean even if caught early. >I'll mention that my right rear wheel ('67 >SIIa 88") has old oil on the inner aspect but that the brakes seem to >function very well. In fact your brakes have been FAILING in imperceptible degrees. Every time you use them they are a little worse! With oil on them they are more than a little worse each time. Your foot brake pressure is getting harder bit by bit and your leg is compensating without telling you. Your braking distance is getting longer each time without your consciousness recognizing it. And, you are not observant enough to tell yourself what is happening. What may be fooling your senses too is the fact that the front brakes are engaging first and stronger, doing more of the work than the rear, and helping you control steering in braking action. The rears are just tagging along and helping out. I will tell you, if your right front instead of your right rear had this insidious problem, you would know it! Your left front would grab more than the oily right, and your steering would be affected... WHAMMOO! One hard jab at the brake petal and you'd be in the left lane with oncoming traffic!! Hello Gabriel! Do us all a favor, work on ALL your brakes real soon. One leaking seal may indicate that the others are on the verge of destruction also. And, check out the inside of your drums and brake housing, it won't take long to pop them off, just take off the wheel and the two screws to the drum, nothing to it. Tread/Brake Lightly! Michael Carradine Carradine Studios Tel.500-442-6500 Architect Architecture Development Planning Pgr.510-945-5000 NCARB RIBA PO Box 99, Orinda, CA 94563 USA cs@crl.com Mercedes-Benz Unimog 4x4 WWW page at: http://www.crl.com/~cs/unimog.html ------------------------------[ <- Message 28 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950614 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Craig Murray <craigp@ocs.cpsg.com.au> Subject: Re: 109 cab forwards Date: Wed, 14 Jun 95 11:49:00 EST > I was looking in the back of the Rovers North catalogue and noticed that 109 cab > forwards went into production about 1962. Does anyone know if any were > officially imported to the US?? I was thinking of a rolling chasis with bed > attached minus front body & engine? I don't know why you would want a 109" Cab over, as they were very quickly superseeded by the IIB 110" Cab over, which was a vast improvement of the 109". The IIB has a stonger axles, a better gear linkage arangement and so on. Some one I know has a IIB with a perkins Diesel in it, and it is a pretty good machine. But make sure you do not get a cab over with a 2.25 diesel, as they were only ever sold in England, and have been described as DANGEROUSLY underpowered. -- ============================================================================== Craig Murray | 1955 Series 1 86" LROC of Victoria Australia | 2.25 diesel LROC of Gippsland Victoria Australia | My car is constipated, email: craigp@ocs.cpsg.com.au | It has not passed a | thing all day!! ------------------------------[ <- Message 29 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950614 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: PAUL.NASH@AG.ausgovag.telememo.au Date: Wed, 14 Jun 1995 13:22:16 +1000 Subject: Holden conversions & Canberra spares I have _finally_ bought another Land-Rover, to replace the sIII diesel that I had to sell when I left home. I haven't actually got my grubby paws on it yet (I should be able to fetch it tomorrow), but I drove it on the weekened, and have started living again :-) It's a sIII 109 5-door, with a Holden 202 (about 3,3l 6cyl) engine and a 5-speed gearbox. Everything seems well maintained, and it goes like a rocket. However, I'm going to have to do some work on fixing the little bits and pieces that aren't quite the way that I want them. Of course, I'm going to need lots of parts in the future (if my diesel was anything to go by). Do any of the Australian list members know of a decent source of series Land-Rover parts in Canberra? Or people nearby who do mail-order stuff? Any ideas on what gearbox/transfer case is likely to be fitted? It has a standard five-speed pattern (5th opposite reverse), but the transfer box has a straight shift between 2H-4H-N-4L. The whole assembly looks about the same size as the genuine article, and has the transmission brake, but does not have the nose-piece for the front drive shaft (it has a long front prop-shaft instead). As a result of the different gearbox, the speedo under-reads by about 30%. Other than re-painting the face, is there any easy way to re-calibrate it? I suppose that I _should_ try to replace the drive gears in the gearbox, so that the odometer works correctly as well. I really should make up my mind about wheels when I do this, as it currently has 15" wheels with massive tyres (about 31"), and I am quite tempted to revert to 16" wheels and mud tyres. The rolling radius is probably not very different, though. Anyway, I'm probably more excited than I have been since I arrived in Australia, and can't wait to get it out into the bush, and travel again. -- Paul Nash internet guru and all-round nice guy South African in exile in freezing (and tidy) Canberra, Australia ------------------------------[ <- Message 30 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950614 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: LANDROVER@delphi.com Date: Wed, 14 Jun 1995 02:38:02 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: Rust Dissolvers Mike asks about rust dissolvers... > One product was called Corrodip and the other POR-15, does anyone > know if these products are available in the U.S. ? I think I saw an ad for POR-15 in Hemmings Motor News once. I don't have a copy handy so I can't say for sure though.. Cheers Michael Loiodice E-MAIL landrover@delphi.com 166 W.Fulton St. VOICE (518) 773-2697 Gloversville NY, 12078 1972 Ser III 88 Petrol (Fern) R.I.P. 7 1971 Ser IIa 88 Petrol #:-}> 1965 Ser IIa 88 Petrol ------------------------------[ <- Message 31 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950614 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Craig Murray <craigp@ocs.cpsg.com.au> Subject: Re: bearings... Date: Wed, 14 Jun 95 16:37:11 EST > Just a note to query a comment i read in yesterday's list. > In discussion about wheel bearing lubrication, Bill Limey mentions diff > oil and swivel housing oil being the providers.... > My question: in my RR manual (and Haynes) there is mention of grease > packing bearings during hub assembly. Yes you are meant to pack them with grease, but they are still lubricated by the oil in the swivel housings, and the diff oil in the rear. > Another sideline, this Salisbury diff line of Qs ive been flying... > Has anyone made their own locker for same...I have started to make up one > using orig. sized axles (24 spline 1.25") but now am toying with the idea > of 31 spline 1.5" axles (it's a ford spline). How hard do you (I) have to > try to break a std. axle or strip a drive flange? The only time I have heard of a Salisbury diff breaking, is when some one in LROCV, who has a 253 Holden V8, Range Rover Suspension, with a 110 Salisbury in the rear with a Maxi Drive diff lock, and Super Swampers was climbing up a rocky hill,the mounts for the sway bars wedged up against a ledge, and the wheels had really good traction, and the diff broke, but the amount of strain on it at the time, I don't think any thing would have survivied. Also the only time I've heard of a Salisbury axle breaking, was in a Series III with a worked 202 and detroit locker, climbing up a 35 - 40 degree hill, it bounced up in the air, and the driver kept the foot down, so he had 2 ton of Land Rover trying to drive up a very steep hill on one wheel, with a very powerful motor, and the axle broke. If you want an unbreakable rear end, I think the closest you will get to it is a Salisbury with a MacNamara Diff Lock with a Hypoid Diff fitted, that would be very hard to break!! -- ============================================================================== Craig Murray | 1955 Series 1 86" LROC of Victoria Australia | 2.25 diesel LROC of Gippsland Victoria Australia | My car is constipated, email: craigp@ocs.cpsg.com.au | It has not passed a | thing all day!! ------------------------------[ <- Message 32 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950614 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: LANDROVER@delphi.com Date: Wed, 14 Jun 1995 02:38:14 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: Broken Studs on Exhaust Chris Stevens has stud questions.... > The center top stud for the exhaust manifold is sheared off in the cylinder > head and needs to be replaced. Same thing has bappened with an exit stud on > tbe front exhaust pipe. Anyone know the prescription for getting these > things out? Do I drill them? Blast? Take it to Midas? Removing whats left of the stud involves drilling out the center of the stud and using an "easy-out" to extract the remains. Not the easiest thing to do and unless you are very careful you can bugger up the threads in the hole. If you don't feel that brave, then your best bet is to take the head to a competant machine shop and have them do it. Cheers Michael Loiodice E-MAIL landrover@delphi.com 166 W.Fulton St. VOICE (518) 773-2697 Gloversville NY, 12078 1972 Ser III 88 Petrol (Fern) R.I.P. 7 1971 Ser IIa 88 Petrol #:-}> 1965 Ser IIa 88 Petrol ------------------------------[ <- Message 33 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950614 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Mr Ian Stuart <Ian.Stuart@ed.ac.uk> Date: Wed, 14 Jun 1995 08:06:30 +0000 Subject: Re: 109 cab forwards > So TeriAnn, there are NO excuses not to get one or more! If you like > Forward Controls, you may also want to look into Unimogs. :) If you're into Forward Controls, you go for a 101! I've only seen them stopped by two things - the wrong gear for the hill and resting on it's nose crossing a ditch. These things are as close to unstoppable as you can get :-) ----** Ian Stuart (Computing Officer) +44 31 650 6205 Royal (Dick) School of Veterinary Studies, Edinburgh University. WWW sites: Work -- <http://www.vet.ed.ac.uk/> Personal -- <http://www.tardis.ed.ac.uk/~kiz/> ------------------------------[ <- Message 34 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950614 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
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