Land Rover Owner Message Digest Contents


[ First Message Last | Table of Contents | <- Digest -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

Send Submissions Land-Rover-Owner@Land-Rover.Team.Net

msgSender linesSubject
1 Mike Rooth [M.J.Rooth@lu13Re: Split rims
2 rrudder@rain.org (Robert6Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest
3 Charlie Wright [cw117@mo18Re: Re Directional Tread
4 [Glen_Rees@parlon2.ccmai37Not Kodiak Heaters
5 Carl Byrne [SPECBB@cardi43Oil seals and 1949 80"
6 Easton Trevor [TEASTON@D24Batteries and Ignition
7 Stephen Thomas [THOMSE-U26 Dave's IIa, and those that follow it.
8 Easton Trevor [TEASTON@D67FW: Storage - in a bag...
9 "Tom Rowe" [TROWE@AE.AGE24 Re: Split rims
10 Brian Neill Tiedemann [s42bearings...
11 William Terry [wterry@sa24was Re. Brazilian Landy owners now LR in Latin America
12 kessels.bill=40ott01=40c31D90 Security
13 "Russell G. Dushin" [dus74correction
14 Pierce Reid [70004.4011@20Split Rims
15 NADdMD@aol.com 15Brakes
16 lenagham@bachman.com 16Rust Dissolvers
17 DEBROWN@SRP.GOV 34Offer on the Discovery...
18 chrisste@clark.net (Chri19Broken Studs on Exhaust
19 JCassidyiv@aol.com 15Air Filters
20 Leland J Roys [roys@hpke2694 Defender 90
21 "TeriAnn Wakeman" [twak35Re: Air Filters
22 "TeriAnn Wakeman" [twak21109 cab forwards
23 chris.youngson@deepcove.17RUST DISSOLVERS
24 rover@pinn.net (Alexande18Nigel's Disease, again
25 rlarson@lsil.com (Rick L38Re: 94 Defender 90
26 cs@crl.com (Michael Carr34Re: 109 cab forwards
27 cs@crl.com (Michael Carr50Re: Brakes
28 Craig Murray [craigp@ocs26Re: 109 cab forwards
29 PAUL.NASH@AG.ausgovag.te40Holden conversions & Canberra spares
30 LANDROVER@delphi.com 21Re: Rust Dissolvers
31 Craig Murray [craigp@ocs46Re: bearings...
32 LANDROVER@delphi.com 28Re: Broken Studs on Exhaust
33 Mr Ian Stuart [Ian.Stuar18 Re: 109 cab forwards


------------------------------ [ Message 1 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950614 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

From: Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: Split rims
Date: Tue, 13 Jun 95 9:31:31 BST

Hang about a minute,Bill.Your front wheel bearings may
be lubricated by oil from the swivel housings,but mine
certainly arent.There's no connection between the housings
and the wheel bearings,which are grease lubricated.

Cheers
Mike Rooth

------------------------------
[ <- Message 2 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950614 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

Date: Tue, 13 Jun 1995 01:34:39 -0800
From: rrudder@rain.org (Robert)
Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

lists

------------------------------
[ <- Message 3 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950614 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

Date: Tue, 13 Jun 1995 11:11:37 +0059 (BST)
From: Charlie Wright <cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: Re Directional Tread

> It was written

> assisted by the roadway curvature, brushes the road debris to the right edge 
> of the roadway, and then your right front tire runs over the nail or screw 
> or whatever and flips it up on end so it can puncture your right rear tire.  
> Perhaps this is relevant to the tread direction question that was being 

To complicate things, I'm taking this from U.K. to U.S. shortly, so I'll 
have to reverse the calculations (and take round-abouts out of the 
figures) when I ship it anyway.  I think the original suggestion that I 
just put the spare on 'inside out' was probably the most accurate.

Charlie

------------------------------
[ <- Message 4 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950614 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

Date: 13 Jun 95 07:13:07 EDT
From: <Glen_Rees@parlon2.ccmail.compuserve.com>
Subject: Not Kodiak Heaters

     Croeso, 
     
     The following excerpt is from "Land Rover Series One Club 
     Newsletter" and I thought it might be of interest. Referring 
     to the Smiths round heaters.
     
     "If you examine the maker's plate on the side of your heater 
     you should find an official rating figure. This will consist 
     of a number (probably '2' in the case of a Morris Minor 
     heater, same as Land Rover) followed by the letters 'MB'. On 
     old heaters, 'MB' was used to measure the output in the same 
     way that 'HP' (for Horse Power) measures the engine output. 
     'MB' actually stands for 'Mouse Breath', so the output of a 
     2MB heater ought to be the equivalent of two mice breathing 
     hard on your knees."
     
     Since no mouse can breath continuously, do they actually mean 
     that 2MB equals one continuos mouse breath - or is it in 
     reality the output of two pairs of mice breathing alternately 
     - and is it possible to tell the difference?  After all, no 
     reference is made to the optimum distance between the mouse's 
     nostrils and the driver's knee, and bearing in mind the air 
     conditioning in a Land Rover, it would need very sensitive 
     equipment to tell the difference between a single heavy 
     breathing mouse or a whole regiment of them panting in 
     anticipation of an orgy!
     
     R  1  3        H
     +--|--|   FWD  |
        2  4        L            '55 Series One
     
     Glenn

------------------------------
[ <- Message 5 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950614 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

From: Carl Byrne <SPECBB@cardiff.ac.uk>
Date: Tue, 13 Jun 1995 12:18:47 GMT
Subject: Oil seals and 1949 80"

Does anybody have any experience with the semi-floating axle fitted 
to pre 53 LandRovers. I have a 1949 80" and the near side (the longer
half-shaft!) oil seal on the rear axle keeps leaking regardless 
of what I do. 

All the obvious has been done:-

* new leather type seal fitted - I have also tried modern neoprene 
  seals 
* there is no wear groove in retaining collar and the surface is 
  very smooth (ground)
* a new bearing has been fitted
* the drain holes in axle hub are clear
* the axle breather is clear
* I have even tried lowering the oil level in axle
* I refrain from parking the vehicle on a camber.

My brother has a similar vehicle and he too has the same problem on 
the longer half shaft. I do about 5000 miles a year so it is not a 
pampered vehicle and this problem is begining to really bug me. I am 
even thinking of fitting a later fully floating axle.

I believe that this must be a common problem and if so there must be 
a recognised cure.

Any pearls of wisdom????

Regards 

Carl

1949 80"
1995 Discovery 300 TDI
Dr. Carl Byrne
University of Wales College of Cardiff,
Wales.
UK.

------------------------------
[ <- Message 6 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950614 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

From: Easton Trevor <TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA>
Subject: Batteries and Ignition
Date: Tue, 13 Jun 95 08:04:00 DST

James Howard wrote about his experience with a dead battery. If the battery 
is totally dead neither a kingston or CD ignition will work. Only a magneto 
which uses permenant magnets to generate the field will start. (No batteries 
on lawn mowers, chain saws etc) Similarly the alternator won't work either 
because it has no field. Because there was a residual voltage to drive the 
field then rolling down the hill enabled the alternator to gradually build 
up some potential in the battery and because it was a CD ignition it could 
generate a spark at lower voltages than the points ignition. Back in my 
college days  I can remember using a couple of lantern batteries      to 
provide enough juice for the ignition to start the E Type (Morris E series) 
and avoiding the major expense of a new battery for months.  Next time (But 
you won't do it again . Will you?) disconnect the coil for a while during 
the initial charging "roll out" then you'll save the power until your ready 
to reconnect and try again. As a caution, remember that as you roll along in 
gear with no ignition you're filling your entire exhaust system with 
explosive mixture. A good recipe for split mufflers when your finally start.

Trevor Easton - Miss Golightly - 1962 SWB SW

------------------------------
[ <- Message 7 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950614 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

From: Stephen Thomas <THOMSE-U@m4-arts.bham.ac.uk>
Date:         13 Jun 95 13:39:09 GMT
Subject:      Dave's IIa, and those that follow it.

Dave I think that the way your IIa distracts those that follow it
really goes to show what a really eye-cathching vehicle you must
have, obviously it's a real stunner.
However I'm not so sure that the (somewhat dubious) adulation which
it appears to be receiving, and the obvious pride that you feel as a
result, should close your eyes to the possibility of damage which is
a little less than visible.
I know how strong the chassis on our IIa's are, but impacts of the
kind you describe can conceivably lead to twisted or compressed
chassis rails; and although it was very charitable of you to be
concerned about the possibility of the other driver getting a
caution, maybe just taking his details in case you find chassis
damage would be a good idea?
On a somewhat lighter note, the whole problem can be sorted out by
changing the stop light switch in the brake line, worked for me :).
We should have our IIa back by the end of the week, with a recon 2.25
diesel. We towed it up to the place with our friends DIY IIa V8
hybrid, and some people say that *diesels* are noisy......sheeesh!

Stephen

------------------------------
[ <- Message 8 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950614 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

From: Easton Trevor <TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA>
Subject: FW: Storage - in a bag...
Date: Tue, 13 Jun 95 09:10:00 DST

There was a thread recently about long term storage. This was forwarded to 
me and may be of interest.
Personally I prefer to use my vehicles not keep them in bags, but needs must 
prevail.
 ----------
From: Kekenj Jim
Subject: FW: Storage - in a bag...
Date: Tuesday, June 13, 1995 8:05AM

 ----------
From: ac623
Subject: Storage - in a bag...
Date: Monday, June 12, 1995 11:04AM

As promised, here is info I acquired through a contact made on the
rec.auto.tech newsgroup.  I must apologise that I don't have the
name/address of the originator.

========================================================================
The only answer is the Omnibag - that is a bag big enough to put your car
in.  I'm currently storing 4 old Mustangs in them.  So far, after 3 years
use, the cars are perfect.  My storage unit is a newer construction,
concrete floor, high humidity situation.  I learned my lesson the hard
way - stored a perfectly restored 1970 Boss 302 for half a year during
the humid spring season.  Everything got bad surface rust - brake rotors,
bare suspension components, even the fresh aluminum parts started to pit
with white deposits.  All the cars have been put into Omnibags and there
have been NO humidity of condensation symptoms since.

Only problem is getting all the gas out of the car.  The Omnibag folks
say the gas fumes are ok and will slowly leak through the bag material,
but gas fumes are corrosive and don't seem like something you want your
car soaking in over the winter.

The Omnibag is a triple layer, gray polyethelene bag that comes in three
sizes.  Small is Miata size, medium swallows an old Mustang and other
medium size cars nicely, large will handle any car.  They might also sell
a van size, but the thought of handling such a large bag sounds like a
real pain.

With practice, I've been able to get a car into the bag by myself within
30 minutes.

For the gas fume problem I've been either draining the tank completely,
or you can also go to the auto parts store and find a newer design gas
cap that has no vents.  Also, change the oil, check the radiator fluid
for freshness and anti-rust, fog the engine with a fogger spray, add some
extra air pressure to the tires, and maybe pour a can of water pump lube
into the coolant, and remove the battery.  Then a car can be stored for
many years.

If they are still at the same location, the last phone number I have for
the Omnibag folks is:  517-641-4881.  Price was $89.95 last year, and the
bags include packets of dessicant to absort moisture from the air, plus 3
clamps to hold the end shut.

 --
Ross Gunn, Ottawa, Canada
Voice: 613-746-1817  FAX/Modem: 613-748-6077

------------------------------
[ <- Message 9 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950614 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date:          Tue, 13 Jun 1995 08:06:51 GMT -0600
Subject:       Re: Split rims

Bill Leacock wrote regarding his disdain for split rims. I have them for my 
lightweight and I do two things. 1) make sure the valve core is out before 
breaking them; 2) put NeverSeeze on the threads (as I do on my lug studs).
That way I don't blow my head off beaking the rim apart, and the studs don't 
rust. NeverSeeze is the best anti-seeze compund I've found, but make sure 
it's the real thing, there are immitations out there.

As far as idiots breaking the rims with air in them, I believe in personal 
responsibility. I've been seriously hurt in the past by various endeavours, 
but most of the time it was my own carelessness, I don't expect anyone else 
to be responsible for me.
So I guess to each their own.
Tom

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578         Four wheel drive allows you to get
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------
[ <- Message 10 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950614 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

From: Brian Neill Tiedemann <s914440@minyos.xx.rmit.EDU.AU>
Subject: bearings...
Date: Tue, 13 Jun 1995 23:41:04 +1000 (EST)

Hi all,
Just a note to query a comment i read in yesterday's list.
In discussion about wheel bearing lubrication, Bill Limey mentions diff 
oil and swivel housing oil being the providers....
My question: in my RR manual (and Haynes) there is mention of grease 
packing bearings during hub assembly. I have done this on separate past
occasions for the front and rear bearings.... is this different to LR?
Also, the swivel ball seals (rubber) are packed during assembly with 
grease... again from manual(s). The seals did _not_ leak for a very long 
time with lots of mudding up then washing, but have just lately started 
to weep a little (since last front diff+swivel oil change).
Note that the bearings are still completely exposed to the swivel or diff 
oil, just packed with disc brake type wheel bearing grease as well. Do 
you LRO's use grease too? Any reasons why not? 
My thoughts of why it is done have only come to the heat generated by the 
disc/hub assy. during braking. (cf. drum..further from friction+heat to 
bearings). Also (i think) grease may be a bit better for high pressure 
lubrication?? Doesn't seem to be any clash of compatibility between EP 
gear oil and the grease tho, it stays greasi (so far).

Another sideline, this Salisbury diff line of Qs ive been flying...
Has anyone made their own locker for same...I have started to make up one 
using orig. sized axles (24 spline 1.25") but now am toying with the idea 
of 31 spline 1.5" axles (it's a ford spline). How hard do you (I) have to 
try to break a std. axle or strip a drive flange? Think its worth the 
extra $$ and hassle? (must use larger stubs to fit an axle this thick 
plus broaching gears and flanges etc. not to mention the axles themselves)
I want it to break NEVER but is this too much?? So far the standard stuff 
seems OK and is a vast improvement over the stock (spiral bevel) rover 
diff and toy 10 spline axles.

Seeya
(no time for mobile sig.....##@$* exams!)
Leaks but I luv it.
77 RR
Brian.

------------------------------
[ <- Message 11 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950614 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

From: William Terry <wterry@sartre.minerva.bah.com>
Subject: was Re. Brazilian Landy owners now LR in Latin America
Date: Tue, 13 Jun 1995 09:57:38 -0400 (EDT)

I spent a month in Costa Rica in Dec - Jan. The most common vehicle I saw 
was LR. I did see lots of LCs, but I think there were more LRs. Like the 
previous observation, most were 88s. I did see some 109SWs out in the 
country. Also many of the LRs were Santanas. The LRs came in almost any 
color imaginable.

And while I'm on the subject... In "Congo" there also appeared to be a 
military LR with a form similar to the SAS/Pink Panther (though the
green version). It was only a glimpse of a wing when the main characters' 
Unimog is stopped by a military contingincy and Amy, the gorilla, is 
discovered by a soldier peeping under the canvas.

______________W__i__l__l__i__a__m_____D__a__n_____T__e__r__r__y______________
  How do we acquire wisdom along with all these shiney things? (David Brin)

  wterry@sartre.minerva.bah.com
  http://glenfiddich.minerva.bah.com:8062/CyberJungle.html
  MINERVA Development Team, Booz, Allen & Hamilton

------------------------------
[ <- Message 12 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950614 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

From: kessels.bill=40ott01=40c14a#%forwarder@ey.geis.com
Date: Tue, 13 Jun 95 15:05:00 UTC
Subject: D90 Security

(LAN Addressees) LRO submissions
 
I park my 94 D90 (of which a cost per KM was not part of the purchase
rationalization process--or I would still be driving my '84 Volvo) outside in
downtown Ottawa.  The biggest security risk is Kids trying to hotwire it,
Prostitutes using it as a place of business and bums using it to sleep.  To
counter this I had an alarm installed (yes, I know they are annoying) which
has all the doors and the hood wired and a motion sensor inside in case one of
the drunks can't figure the door out and unzips the cloth top and climbs in.
In order to reduce the annoyance to my neighbours I have a two stage alarm
which gives a warning chirp for light impacts and jolts--reducing false alarms
by allowing the sensitivity of the main alarm to be turned down. It also has
an ignition kill so that it is terribly difficult to hot wire it once the
alarm has gone off.
 
The company who installed it said that they would be surprised if someone
could hot wire it anyway---there was so much steel under the dash that they
had to be a contortionist to do the wiring.  They also said it was the most
difficult install they had ever done--there is nowhere to hide wiring on the
inside of the Rover.
 
So far it has only gone off twice--and I haven't found any damage (or used
condoms)!
 
Bill

------------------------------
[ <- Message 13 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950614 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

From: "Russell G. Dushin" <dushinrg@pr.cyanamid.com>
Subject: correction
Date: Tue, 13 Jun 95 10:30:09 EDT

BANTER ALERT: Next 68 lines

Oi, I dug myself into a deep one here....

In my haste to get to the point of the post I neglected to consider my 
reasoning and lost track of those units-a mistake that sifts out the D's 
from the F's in 'merican schools.  I'll blame it on all the 90 weight 
I've been drinkin'.  What can I say?  Pretty sad for a guy who aced 
Differential Equations 17 years ago....

Let's go through these calculations again, shall we?....

IF:
[(purchase cost of a 90) + (maintanence of a 90) + (insurance of a 90) + 
(guzzoline of the 90)] = [(purchase cost of Nigel) + (maintanence of 
Nigeboy) + (insurance for Nige) + (guzzoline of daNige)]

AND, assuming:
(insurance of a 90) = (insurance for Nige),
(maintanence of a 90) = (maintanence of Nigeboy),
and that I don't incur any costs whatsoever resulting from the tragic 
occurances upon the vehicles of others due to the dreaded "Nigel's 
Disease" (sorry folks, I 
just cannot bear the responsibility),

AND, given:
(purchase cost of a 90) = $20K
(purchase cost of Nigel) = $2.3K

THEN:
($20K) + (guzzoline of the 90) = ($2.3K) + (guzzoline of daNige)
or,       $17.7K = (guzzoline of daNige) - (guzzoline of the 90)

Now, (and this was where I really blew it badly)-
SINCE:
cost of (guzzoline) = (gallons used) x (dollars/gallon)
      = (total miles) x (1/miles per gallon) x (dollars/gallon)

AND:
the total miles for each are the same (ie Nigel can go anywhere the 90 
can go),
Nigel gets about 11mpg, the 90 around 14mpg
and the current rate for gas in the northeastern US is roughly $1.35/gal

THEN:
$17.7K = [(X miles) x (1 gallon/11 miles) x ($1.35/gallon)] - [(X miles) 
x (1 gallon/14 miles) x ($1.35/gallon)]

solving for X......(like you really care)
$17.7K = $0.1227X - $0.0964X,
X = 17.7K/.0263
X = 673K miles (that I'd have to drive a D90 to break even on the 
investment)

Check my math-I didn't give jack for consideration to significant 
figures...'tis that kind of thing that separates the As from the Bs in
'merican schools....

And I'll leave it to you Europeans to figure out how high the cost of 
petrol has to go before you can do it in under 100K miles.

Now, assuming it takes 20% more time to get there.....and that I'll meet 
20% more women on the way.....and that the D90 will be doing 45 mph on 
average all day long every day while I'm over there checking them 
out....then, then......

You got the message, though,
rd/nige

------------------------------
[ <- Message 14 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950614 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

Date: 13 Jun 95 08:35:42 EDT
From: Pierce Reid <70004.4011@compuserve.com>
Subject: Split Rims

The split Rims were also used on Military Rovers for a long time after they were
discontinued on Civilian models.  Even late Series III Lightweights had split
rims.  Reason is that they are easier to repair under arduous conditions.

I have them on my Military and they are fine... I keep my offroad unidirectional
tires mounted on them.

Deflate completely before disassembling *and* remove the valve insert.  That
ensures that you will not have a rim fly off when you unbolt it.

Hope this helps, 

Cheers, 

R. P. Reid

------------------------------
[ <- Message 15 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950614 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Tue, 13 Jun 1995 11:30:12 -0400
Subject: Brakes

In the LRO FAQ, it states that oil on the inside of the wheel indicates the
inner oil seal is bad and and therefore, the brake is bad as well.  I don't
understand how a bad inner hub seal will cause the brake on that wheel to be
bad as well.  Any explanations?  I'll mention that my right rear wheel ('67
SIIa 88") has old oil on the inner aspect but that the brakes seem to
function very well.
Nate Dunsmore
Boring, MD USA
NADdMD@aol.com

------------------------------
[ <- Message 16 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950614 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

Date: Tue, 13 Jun 95 13:29:08 EST
From: lenagham@bachman.com
Subject: Rust Dissolvers

     There was an article in the latest copy of the Land Rover Owners 
     International magazine about a test on 2 products that dissolved rust.
     
     One product was called Corrodip and the other POR-15, does anyone know 
     if these products are available in the U.S. ?
     
     The Corrodip product also received a very good write up in the first 
     edition of Land Rover World.
     
     Thanks
     Mike

------------------------------
[ <- Message 17 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950614 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

Date: Tue, 13 Jun 95 10:32:01 MST
From: DEBROWN@SRP.GOV
Subject: Offer on the Discovery...

FROM:  David Brown                           Internet: debrown@srp.gov
       Computer Graphics Specialist * Mapping Services & Engr Graphics
       PAB219 (602)236-3544 -  Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486
SUBJECT: Offer on the Discovery...
I've been offered $28,250 for my 1994 Land-Rover Discovery, black,
LOADED (leather, dual air, dual sun roofs, rino bar, rear guards, 7
seats, tinted windows, etc...) 16,600 miles.

So.... What do you think? Should I take it and be done with it all?
After all, it's not appreciating any while I wait...

Please reply ASAP. I'll probably call him back Tonight or Tomorrow...

Thanks,

Dave (perplexed) Brown

 #=====#         #========#          -------,___
 |___|__\___     |___|__|__\___      |--' |  |  \_|_
 | _ |   |_ |}   | _ |  |   |_ |}    |  _ |--+--|_  |
 "(_)""""(_)"    "(_)"""""""(_)"    ||_/_\___|__/_\_|}
                                       (_)      (_)
 1971 "88" IIa   1970 "109" IIa     1994 Discovery (for sale $30,500)
                                                   (Too hard to "draw")

#=======#                Never doubt that a small group of individuals
|__|__|__\___            can change the world... indeed, it's the only
| _|  |   |_ |}          thing that ever has.
"(_)""""""(_)"                                          -Margaret Mead

------------------------------
[ <- Message 18 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950614 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

Date: Tue, 13 Jun 1995 16:26:06 -0500
From: chrisste@clark.net (Chris Stevens)
Subject: Broken Studs on Exhaust

The center top stud for the exhaust manifold is sheared off in the cylinder
head and needs to be replaced. Same thing has bappened with an exit stud on
tbe front exhaust pipe. Anyone know the prescription for getting these
things out? Do I drill them? Blast? Take it to Midas?

Chris

Chris Stevens                           1969 SRIIA 88" SW

BCG Corporate Communications
Towson, Maryland, USA
(410) 583-1722
(410) 583-1935 (FAX)
chrisste@Clark.net

------------------------------
[ <- Message 19 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950614 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

From: JCassidyiv@aol.com
Date: Tue, 13 Jun 1995 17:11:54 -0400
Subject: Air Filters

For all those who want to let their Disco's and Range Rovers breathe easier,
the folks at Rover's North just sent me the K+N air filters which fit.  The
Discovery takes the #33-2625 filter which is originally for a Porsche 944
turbo.  The filter for the Range Rover is #E-2350 which is originally for a
Fiat X-19.  K+N has no specific listing in it's catalog for Land Rover
products and my local dealer had no idea what would fit.  In case you don't
know about the K+N filters, they are good for 100,000 miles and need to be
cleaned, not replaced!
                      Cheers!  John

------------------------------
[ <- Message 20 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950614 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

From: Leland J Roys <roys@hpkel13.cup.hp.com>
Subject: 94 Defender 90
Date: Tue, 13 Jun 95 14:23:46 PDT

Hello All,

This is my first time asking a question so I hope I did this right.

I just purchased a new 1994 Defender-90 I love the truck (already 
been in the mud). I do have one question.

After 4K miles (In 3 weeks of ownership) A clanking sound started
"after" shifting into 1st gear. I say after becuase it happens only
after the truck starts to move forward in 1st. It seems as though the
differential has not completely engaged. Also when I first bought
the trcuk I had problems with the differential gearshift slipping out
of high 4 weel drive. I would be driving along the freeway and I would
suddenly lose power, and would find that I was in neutral (diff neutral).

Does anyone know if this is normal?    

Leland Roys
roys@cup.hp.com
Cupertino California

------------------------------
[ <- Message 21 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950614 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

Date: Tue, 13 Jun 95 15:53:30 -0700
From: "TeriAnn Wakeman"  <twakeman@apple.com>
Subject: Re: Air Filters

In message <199506132113.QAA21655@butler.uk.stratus.com>  writes:

 
; For all those who want to let their Disco's and Range Rovers breathe easier,
; the folks at Rover's North just sent me the K+N air filters which fit.  The
; Discovery takes the #33-2625 filter which is originally for a Porsche 944
; turbo.  The filter for the Range Rover is #E-2350 which is originally for a
; Fiat X-19.  K+N has no specific listing in it's catalog for Land Rover
; products and my local dealer had no idea what would fit.  In case you don't
; know about the K+N filters, they are good for 100,000 miles and need to be
; cleaned, not replaced!

I don't remember which list had a thread on foam filters, but I think it was the
Triumph list..so here goes.

We had a big discussion on the effectivness of foam filters & someone in the 
group worked for a company that made a study on earth moving equipment and the 
effect of foam verses paper elements.  The company wanted to go to foam and save
the high cost of constantly replacing clogged paper elements.  I believe K&N 
elements were used in the study as representing the best foam filter elements.  
Bottom line is that the foam filters let in a LOT more dirt particals than the 
paper did resulting in the earth moving equipment needing to have engines 
rebuilt after a lot fewer hours.  It was more cost effective to frequently 
replace paper elements than to frequently clean foam elements.

TeriAnn Wakeman              .sig closed for remodeling
twakeman@apple.com         
              
                         
                       

------------------------------
[ <- Message 22 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950614 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

Date: Tue, 13 Jun 95 16:04:01 -0700
From: "TeriAnn Wakeman"  <twakeman@apple.com>
Subject: 109 cab forwards

I was looking in the back of the Rovers North catalogue and noticed that 109 cab
forwards went into production about 1962.  Does anyone know if any were 
officially imported to the US??  Anyone know if a slightly disassembled pre-1966
109 cab forward might have any problems getting into the US or getting 
registered in the California?  I was thinking of a rolling chasis with bed 
attached minus front body & engine?

Anyone know where the ID numbers are on a 109 cab forward?

Just wondering

TeriAnn Wakeman              .sig closed for remodeling
twakeman@apple.com         
              
                         
                       

------------------------------
[ <- Message 23 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950614 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

From: chris.youngson@deepcove.com
Date: Tue, 13 Jun 95 16:20:08 
Subject: RUST DISSOLVERS

With regards to rust dissolvers:

Oxysolve, availible at most tool places, is the sames stuff as the one you
mention. It leaves a coating of zinc phosphate. It takes a long times to rust
in the outdoors. I have a gallon of this stuff. If you wants faster more
thorough results use muriatic acid, just make sure you do it outdoors and
neutralize the acid with a water/baking soda wash afterwards. This is what I
use most of the time because it's cheap and sometimes I don't want a zinc
coating. 73

Chris Youngson, West Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada

------------------------------
[ <- Message 24 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950614 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

Date: Tue, 13 Jun 1995 19:25:53 -0500
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Nigel's Disease, again

Okay gang, we gotta get something straight...no more talkin' about things 
that break down, fall off or go bump in the night.  No sooner did someone 
mention that their electric oil pressure sending unit failed that *mine* 
packed in.  Crimony, only 201,000 miles on it...hardly broken in.  I know 
that the resistance for the fuel sender is 3 to 35 ohms; any idea on the 
range for the pressure sending unit so I can scrounge a replacement?
      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |       Rover Owners' Association of Virginia         |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 804-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    804-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 804-622-7056     |
      *-----------------------------------------------------*

------------------------------
[ <- Message 25 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950614 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

Date: Tue, 13 Jun 95 16:11:56 PDT
From: rlarson@lsil.com (Rick Larson)
Subject: Re: 94 Defender 90

>From: Leland J Roys <roys@hpkel13.cup.hp.com>
>Subject: 94 Defender 90
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 27 lines)]
>roys@cup.hp.com
>Cupertino California
Mine doesn't do it.  The only time it has ever slipped out
of high was during a really long downhill run, after a day
of driving in 4 lo.  I just assumed I hadn't got the transfer case 
selector fully engaged in hi.

Enjoy.  The only real problem I've experience so far has been that the
attention the D90 receives from others (cute blonds excepted of course)
gets a bit annoying after a while. I'm thinking about getting a FAQ 
printed up to hand out at stop lights and parking lots.

It's not a Jeep.
It's not a Hummer.
It's a Land Rover Defender.
It's made in England.
Yes, that is the same company that makes Range Rovers.
It's a 3.9L V8 and, yes, the mileage does suck.
No,the bumper and winch aren't stock.
No, much less than $50K, about $30K.
No, it's not lifted, it comes with these tires stock.
Yes, it's great off road, noisy on road.
etc.........

-Rick
'94 D90

Richard Larson
LSI Logic Corporation
(408) 433-7149

------------------------------
[ <- Message 26 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950614 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

Date: Tue, 13 Jun 1995 16:55:13 +0100
From: cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine)
Subject: Re: 109 cab forwards

 TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@apple.com> writes:

>I was looking in the back of the Rovers North catalogue and noticed that
>109 cab forwards went into production about 1962.  Does anyone know if any
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
>getting registered in the California?  I was thinking of a rolling chasis
>with bed attached minus front body & engine?

 Anything 1967 and before will have NO problem.  In fact, up to 1970 will
 have no problem except for petrol models requiring the addition of an PCV
 valve in an air hose from the valve cover to the carburetor air intake.
 For 1971 and 1972 petrol models ad a carbon canister, an air hose from the
 petrol tank to the carbon canister intake, and an air hose from the carbon
 canister output to the PVC valve.  Diesel models have no requirements until
 1974 or so.  Of course 1968 and later petrol models will require biannual
 SMOG inspections.

 So TeriAnn, there are NO excuses not to get one or more!  If you like
 Forward Controls, you may also want to look into Unimogs.  :)

>Anyone know where the ID numbers are on a 109 cab forward?

 Probably on the front of the frame like the 109 or 88.

 Michael Carradine    Carradine Studios                   Tel.500-442-6500
 Architect            Architecture Development Planning   Pgr.510-945-5000
 NCARB RIBA           PO Box 99, Orinda, CA 94563 USA           cs@crl.com

 Mercedes-Benz Unimog 4x4 WWW page at:  http://www.crl.com/~cs/unimog.html

------------------------------
[ <- Message 27 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950614 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

Date: Tue, 13 Jun 1995 17:33:20 +0100
From: cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine)
Subject: Re: Brakes

 Nate Dunsmore <NADdMD@aol.com> writes:

>In the LRO FAQ, it states that oil on the inside of the wheel indicates the
>inner oil seal is bad and and therefore, the brake is bad as well.  I don't
>understand how a bad inner hub seal will cause the brake on that wheel to be
>bad as well.  Any explanations?

 The oil on the inside of the wheel is coming from the inside of the brake
 drum, after leaking there from the center of the hub where the seal to the
 axle is.  As the oil leaks out it drips onto the drum, spins around, and
 attaches to the brake shoes facing the drum.  Oil on the shoe surface against
 the drums is not recommended for obvious reasons, and very hard to clean
 even if caught early.

>I'll mention that my right rear wheel ('67
>SIIa 88") has old oil on the inner aspect but that the brakes seem to
>function very well.

 In fact your brakes have been FAILING in imperceptible degrees.  Every
 time you use them they are a little worse!  With oil on them they are
 more than a little worse each time.  Your foot brake pressure is getting
 harder bit by bit and your leg is compensating without telling you.  Your
 braking distance is getting longer each time without your consciousness
 recognizing it.  And, you are not observant enough to tell yourself what
 is happening.  What may be fooling your senses too is the fact that the
 front brakes are engaging first and stronger, doing more of the work than
 the rear, and helping you control steering in braking action.  The rears
 are just tagging along and helping out.  I will tell you, if your right
 front instead of your right rear had this insidious problem, you would
 know it!  Your left front would grab more than the oily right, and your
 steering would be affected...  WHAMMOO!  One hard jab at the brake petal
 and you'd be in the left lane with oncoming traffic!!  Hello Gabriel!
 Do us all a favor, work on ALL your brakes real soon.  One leaking seal
 may indicate that the others are on the verge of destruction also.  And,
 check out the inside of your drums and brake housing, it won't take long
 to pop them off, just take off the wheel and the two screws to the drum,
 nothing to it.

 Tread/Brake Lightly!

 Michael Carradine    Carradine Studios                   Tel.500-442-6500
 Architect            Architecture Development Planning   Pgr.510-945-5000
 NCARB RIBA           PO Box 99, Orinda, CA 94563 USA           cs@crl.com

 Mercedes-Benz Unimog 4x4 WWW page at:  http://www.crl.com/~cs/unimog.html

------------------------------
[ <- Message 28 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950614 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

From: Craig Murray <craigp@ocs.cpsg.com.au>
Subject: Re: 109 cab forwards
Date: Wed, 14 Jun 95 11:49:00 EST

> I was looking in the back of the Rovers North catalogue and noticed that 109 cab
> forwards went into production about 1962.  Does anyone know if any were 
> officially imported to the US??  I was thinking of a rolling chasis with bed 
> attached minus front body & engine?

I don't know why you would want a 109" Cab over, as they were very 
quickly superseeded by the IIB 110" Cab over, which was a vast 
improvement of the 109".  The IIB has a stonger axles, a better gear 
linkage arangement and so on.  Some one I know has a IIB with a perkins 
Diesel in it, and it is a pretty good machine.  But make sure you do not 
get a cab over with a 2.25 diesel, as they were only ever sold in 
England, and have been described as DANGEROUSLY underpowered.

--
==============================================================================
Craig Murray                                    |       1955 Series 1 86"
LROC of Victoria Australia                      |       2.25 diesel 
LROC of Gippsland Victoria Australia            |       My car is constipated,
email: craigp@ocs.cpsg.com.au                   |       It has not passed a 
                                                |       thing all day!!

------------------------------
[ <- Message 29 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950614 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

From: PAUL.NASH@AG.ausgovag.telememo.au
Date: Wed, 14 Jun 1995 13:22:16 +1000
Subject: Holden conversions & Canberra spares

I have _finally_ bought another Land-Rover, to replace the sIII diesel that I
had to sell when I left home.  I haven't actually got my grubby paws on it yet
(I should be able to fetch it tomorrow), but I drove it on the weekened, and
have started living again :-)

It's a sIII 109 5-door, with a Holden 202 (about 3,3l 6cyl) engine and a
5-speed gearbox.  Everything seems well maintained, and it goes like a rocket. 
However, I'm going to have to do some work on fixing the little bits and pieces
that aren't quite the way that I want them.  Of course, I'm going to need lots
of parts in the future (if my diesel was anything to go by).

Do any of the Australian list members know of a decent source of series
Land-Rover parts in Canberra?  Or people nearby who do mail-order stuff?

Any ideas on what gearbox/transfer case is likely to be fitted?  It has a
standard five-speed pattern (5th opposite reverse), but the transfer box has a
straight shift between 2H-4H-N-4L.  The whole assembly looks about the same
size as the genuine article, and has the transmission brake, but does not have
the nose-piece for the front drive shaft (it has a long front prop-shaft
instead).

As a result of the different gearbox, the speedo under-reads by about 30%. 
Other than re-painting the face, is there any easy way to re-calibrate it?  I
suppose that I _should_ try to replace the drive gears in the gearbox, so that
the odometer works correctly as well.  I really should make up my mind about
wheels when I do this, as it currently has 15" wheels with massive tyres (about
31"), and I am quite tempted to revert to 16" wheels and mud tyres.  The
rolling radius is probably not very different, though.

Anyway, I'm probably more excited than I have been since I arrived in
Australia, and can't wait to get it out into the bush, and travel again.
--
        Paul Nash                  internet guru and all-round nice guy
   South African in exile in freezing (and tidy) Canberra, Australia

------------------------------
[ <- Message 30 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950614 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

From: LANDROVER@delphi.com
Date: Wed, 14 Jun 1995 02:38:02 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Rust Dissolvers

Mike asks about rust dissolvers...
      
>      One product was called Corrodip and the other POR-15, does anyone
>      know if these products are available in the U.S. ?

I think I saw an ad for POR-15 in Hemmings Motor News once. I don't have a
copy handy so I can't say for sure though..

Cheers
  Michael Loiodice       E-MAIL   landrover@delphi.com              
  166 W.Fulton St.       VOICE    (518) 773-2697                    
  Gloversville                                                      
  NY, 12078              1972 Ser III 88 Petrol (Fern) R.I.P.      
              7          1971 Ser IIa 88 Petrol
           #:-}>         1965 Ser IIa 88 Petrol

------------------------------
[ <- Message 31 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950614 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

From: Craig Murray <craigp@ocs.cpsg.com.au>
Subject: Re: bearings...
Date: Wed, 14 Jun 95 16:37:11 EST

> Just a note to query a comment i read in yesterday's list.
> In discussion about wheel bearing lubrication, Bill Limey mentions diff 
> oil and swivel housing oil being the providers....
> My question: in my RR manual (and Haynes) there is mention of grease 
> packing bearings during hub assembly.

Yes you are meant to pack them with grease, but they are still lubricated 
by the oil in the swivel housings, and the diff oil in the rear.

> Another sideline, this Salisbury diff line of Qs ive been flying...
> Has anyone made their own locker for same...I have started to make up one 
> using orig. sized axles (24 spline 1.25") but now am toying with the idea 
> of 31 spline 1.5" axles (it's a ford spline). How hard do you (I) have to 
> try to break a std. axle or strip a drive flange? 

The only time I have heard of a Salisbury diff breaking, is when some one 
in LROCV, who has a 253 Holden V8, Range Rover Suspension, with a 110 
Salisbury in the rear with a Maxi Drive diff lock, and Super Swampers was 
climbing up a rocky 
hill,the mounts for the sway bars wedged up against a ledge, and the 
wheels had really good traction, and the diff broke, but the amount of 
strain on it at the time, I don't think any thing would have survivied.

Also the only time I've heard of a Salisbury axle breaking, was in a 
Series III with a worked 202 and detroit locker, climbing up a 35 - 40 
degree hill, it bounced up in the air, and the driver kept the foot 
down, so he had 2 ton of Land Rover trying to drive up a very steep hill 
on one wheel, with a very powerful motor, and the axle broke.

If you want an unbreakable rear end, I think the closest you will get to 
it is a Salisbury with a MacNamara Diff Lock with a Hypoid Diff fitted, 
that would be very hard to break!!

--
==============================================================================
Craig Murray                                    |       1955 Series 1 86"
LROC of Victoria Australia                      |       2.25 diesel 
LROC of Gippsland Victoria Australia            |       My car is constipated,
email: craigp@ocs.cpsg.com.au                   |       It has not passed a 
                                                |       thing all day!!

------------------------------
[ <- Message 32 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950614 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

From: LANDROVER@delphi.com
Date: Wed, 14 Jun 1995 02:38:14 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Broken Studs on Exhaust

Chris Stevens has stud questions....

> The center top stud for the exhaust manifold is sheared off in the
cylinder
> head and needs to be replaced. Same thing has bappened with an exit stud
on
> tbe front exhaust pipe. Anyone know the prescription for getting these
> things out? Do I drill them? Blast? Take it to Midas?

Removing whats left of the stud involves drilling out the center of the stud
and using an "easy-out" to extract the remains. Not the easiest thing to do
and unless you are very careful you can bugger up the threads in the hole.
If you don't feel that brave, then your best bet is to take the head to a
competant machine shop and have them do it.

Cheers
  Michael Loiodice       E-MAIL   landrover@delphi.com              
  166 W.Fulton St.       VOICE    (518) 773-2697                    
  Gloversville                                                      
  NY, 12078              1972 Ser III 88 Petrol (Fern) R.I.P.      
              7          1971 Ser IIa 88 Petrol
           #:-}>         1965 Ser IIa 88 Petrol

------------------------------
[ <- Message 33 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950614 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

From: Mr Ian Stuart <Ian.Stuart@ed.ac.uk>
Date:          Wed, 14 Jun 1995 08:06:30 +0000
Subject:       Re: 109 cab forwards

>  So TeriAnn, there are NO excuses not to get one or more!  If you like
>  Forward Controls, you may also want to look into Unimogs.  :)
If you're into Forward Controls, you go for a 101!

I've only seen them stopped by two things - the wrong gear for the 
hill and resting on it's nose crossing a ditch. These things are as 
close to unstoppable as you can get :-)

     ----** Ian Stuart (Computing Officer)        +44 31 650 6205
Royal (Dick) School of Veterinary Studies, Edinburgh University. 
WWW sites: Work -- <http://www.vet.ed.ac.uk/>      
       Personal -- <http://www.tardis.ed.ac.uk/~kiz/>

------------------------------
[ <- Message 34 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950614 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

  END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST 
 Input:  messages 32 lines 1405 [forwarded 85 whitespace 317]
 Output: lines 1169 [content 714  forwarded 60 (cut  25) whitespace 305]

Back Forward

Photos & text Copyright 1990-2011 Bill Caloccia, All rights reserved.
Digest Messages Copyright 1990-2011 by the original poster or/and Bill Caloccia, All rights reserved.