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Date: Mon, 12 Jun 1995 11:57:56 +0200
From: dbeers@eu.wang.com (David Beers)
Subject: Re: Any Brazilian members on the list?

>Toyota LandCruisers -  but LandRovers? 
>Have they ever been sold there? I doubt it.

I was in Costa Rica (Central America) last December on Holiday, and I saw 
quite a few older Series Land Rovers.  They were all 88 hardtops.  I did not 
see any 109's or any newer Rovers for that matter.  However, the most common 
vehicle by far was the Toyota Landcruiser from the early models to the 
latest ones.

-David
1989 90 Turbodiesel Hardtop.

------------------------------

From: Spenny@aol.com
Date: Mon, 12 Jun 1995 06:35:39 -0400
Subject: Re:  Return of the Native

Dave,
Having lived in New Orleans, I found that the easiest way to cope with the
Gulf summers was to stay out really late, eating cajun food, listening to
that amazing New Orleans music and drinking refreshing beverages, like the
Jello shots at Cooter Browns. <g>
Did you ever eat at Mother's restaurant? That was a block from where i lived,
& breakfast EVERY morning
what a city!

How did it handle the flooding?

Spenny

------------------------------

From: Andrew Grafton <A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk>
Subject: re: overdrives + 7.50x16 tyres = ?
Date: Mon, 12 Jun 95 11:52:06 BST

Re : Overdrives and 7.50 x 16" tyres on a 109"

I know that this isn't the best way to answer a question 
like this, but all the people I know with overdrives on 
109's use 7.50 x 16 tyres.  The main causes of overdrive 
failure appear to be running it without oil or using it in 
too low a gear, not the 7.50x16's.

I'd imagine that 109"s with the factory fit o/d option 
came with 7.50's fitted.

With reference to fitting larger tyres (like 9.00x16" or
something) - it is undoubtedly true that the transmission 
on a LR is capable of handling as much continuous torque
as the power of the standard engine can provide, for example 
chugging uphill smack in the middle of the torque curve with 
your foot to the floor [or driving a 2.25 diesel anywhere :-)].
>From the transmission's viewpoint, for that kind of use it 
wouldn't really matter what size tyres you have as long
as they fit in the wheelarch!

What eventually breaks transmissions is unusual or transient 
loads, e.g. driving in 4wd on pavement, spinning a wheel off 
road or hitting a big bump which can momentarily reverse the 
load direction through the drivetrain.  Here, the size, weight
and grippiness all play a part.  

Ultimately, I have to agree with Charlie - don't worry about
small changes like an inch or two in diameter or tread patterns, 
but think about your strategy if you want to put monster truck
tyres on your beast!  (what transmission did the 'forest Rover'
have fitted - the one with the tractor tyres?)

Only my opinion.

Andy 
A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk

------------------------------

From: Andrew Grafton <A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk>
Subject: Piston rings on 2286 diesels
Date: Mon, 12 Jun 95 11:23:31 BST

Amazing response on this one...  So here are the findings.

Q : To fit or not to fit the bottom (skirt) scraper / oil
    control ring on a 2.25 diesel following a rebore/new
    pistons job?

A : Don't.  Deprives the top rings of oil, leading to
    premature wear and failure.  Run the engine until
    it starts to burn excessive oil (70-80K miles?)
    and then fit the bottom 'oil control' ring and new
    top rings before planning a rebore at 100-120K miles.
    Fitting the rings from 'new' dramatically reduces
    engine life.

Or that's the theory!  I've had a number of detailed
responses based on years of experience with these engines,
most of which agree on the above.

I won't be fitting the rings on this rebuild.

Thanks to all those who advised.  All the best,

Andy

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jun 1995 12:15:17 +0059 (BST)
From: Charlie Wright <cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: Tire

On Sun, 11 Jun 1995, Kelly Minnick wrote:

> RE:Tires
> Maybe I'm missing something.  If I am, someone can clue me in.  Large tire
> give a larger tire patch area.  Smaller tires give a smaller patch area.
> Both tires have the same weight on them, so in some instances, the smaller
> tire (narrower) would have a higher psi loading and possibly better traction.

I thought the question was about diameter of the tyre, not width. That's 
what I based my mutterings on, anyway.

> the moment arm is larger, but a smaller diameter tire is more prone to spin
> in the dirt than the larger diameter, eh?  I think spinning off-road is where
> the axles break, not on the road.  

I think that (in the real world, not my greased-sheet-of-glass) most 
axles break as the tyre spins and slips, then grips suddenly... over and 
over= BANG.  Or is used to pull out tree-stumps with a large Perkins 
conversion and under-rated axles...

> At any give speed, there is an associated
> HP required to keep the vehicle at that speed.  With smaller tires, this
> translates back to a higher axle torque figure.  I am assuming this by the
> fact that HP = torque X RPM.  

Hmmm, I'd have to think about that a bit.  Assuming you are right in your
formula, at speed='A,' HP is constant, say 'B'.  That means that torque X
RPM is constant, yes?  If you've got smaller tyres, you'll be winding up
the revolutions to go the same speed ('A').  Best I can figure, at higher
RPM's, you'll see lower torque while keeping the HP (speed) constant (by
your formula).  Having said that, my dynamics are pretty much limited to
getting Drosophila from one bottle to the next these days, so I won't
guarantee my musing either... 

Charlie

------------------------------

Date: 12 Jun 95 08:51:28 EDT
From: Pierce Reid <70004.4011@compuserve.com>
Subject: D90 Tip

Tip for D90 Owners... for a problem you may not have but might at any time.

Saturday I parked outside while I was doing some work in my shop.  It also
happened to be the day when seeds were dripping like crazy from the area trees.
A bnunch of crud ended up on the fenders and (yes) in the air intakes on the
fenders.  Crud on the fender I can live with... Crud in the mechanics, I cannot!

Solution... unscrew the grates, cut some window screen to fit the bottom of the
grate and reinstall... Presto, no more crud in my intakes.  Total cost...
Nothing.  

But now the mosquitos are coming into the house through the holes in the storm
door ;-(

Cheers, 

R. P. Reid

------------------------------

From: Russell Burns <burns@cisco.com>
Subject: Re: Rusted Floor-board
Date: Mon, 12 Jun 95 6:39:35 PDT

I have noticed that the Floorboards of my 91 R-Rover are usally wet.
I remove the carpet, and prop up the rubber sound deadner and allow it
to dry out from time to time.
	The moisture is usally from snow off boots.

Russ Burns
91 R-Rover
90 D-90
> To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net

	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 13 lines)]
> the local metal shop cut me a piece of stainless to weld in?   Thanks in
> advance for any help.  John Cassidy

------------------------------

From: Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: smoke diagnosis
Date: Mon, 12 Jun 95 14:56:11 BST

Charlie,
Dont think there ever was an Oily Wadders List of Do's
and Donts.IMO its long overdue.Trouble is:A)Even the
magazines coyly shy away from anything diesel(a fact
I've just written to LRO to complain about),and:B)When
anyone on the list *does* effect a cure for their
ailments,they dont seem to actually *tell* anyone.
Mind you,I'm beginning to suspect that there's no easy
cure for oil burners.
>From what I've seen,most,if not all diesels shove out a
gout of smoke on starting.If in decent nick,thats it,
no more.
Black smoke=injectors.
I tried Wynn's Injector Cleaner in mine with little effect,
since I aint getting *black* smoke which it says on the can
its a cure for.I also suspect I ought to have used the
"remedial" dose,instead of the "maintenance" dose.Basically
this is *two* cans instead of one in a tankful.Or a third
of a tankfull to increase the concentration,then drive it
until nearly empty.At #4.50 a can its the cheap try.
Also tried twiddling the pump timing with some effect,slightly
less grey smoke,slightly poorer performance uphill *in cold
weather* but when it got warmer(remember,blink and you missed it)
uphill performance got *much* better.Better,in fact than it had
ever been,which leads me to suspect the thermostat.
I've got this nasty feeling that to improve things drastically,
it will be necessary to do the following.
New/recon injectors.
New timing chain.
New dist pump timing gear(SOD of a job,even the Manual says so).
Set up timing a la Workshop Manual.

Things I'm 99% certain are OK:-

Compression,
Valve guides/seals.

Comments,anyone?

Mike Rooth

PS Dont forget *indirect* injection engines.Not direct injection.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jun 95 08:39:05 -0700
From: "TeriAnn Wakeman"  <twakeman@apple.com>
Subject: Re: rebuild in progress - small brake question

In message <199506100807.DAA18191@butler.uk.stratus.com>  writes:
lso
> just happen to have a brand new pair of wheel cylinders from a 110,
> courtesy of a friend.  The 88" brakes use 1" diameter cylinders, but
> these new ones are 1 1/16".  Other than that difference they bolt right
> in and fit perfectly.  So should I use them?  

Careful there.  Larger wheel cylinders require higher volume master cylinders.

You may find youself needing to quickly pump the brakes to get brake pressure if
you go to a larger dia wheel cylinder and use the old master cylinder.

TeriAnn Wakeman              .sig closed for remodeling
twakeman@apple.com         
              
                         
                       

------------------------------

Date: 12 Jun 1995 16:23:40 U
From: Duncan Rose <duncan.rose@bt-sys.bt.co.uk>
Subject: Re Directional Tread

Hi, applying a bit of probability science

Theory :  Set the tread direction for the FRONT-NEARSIDE becasue :

In the UK, if tyre failure occurs due to wear (although v-unlikely!), and all
other things being equal, it is the front nearside that experiences the most
stress.  This is because of those things called roundabouts, where all weight
is placed on that corner.

Duncan A D Rose
Yellow Eagle RV / Range-Rover running gear / MT's / 40DFI5  
                                    
                                                                    /        
   |  | 
                                                __________|            |  |
______||\\|
                                               /_________  |           |   
_____   ||//|
                                             _/  _____  \     |_____/    /
___  \  ||\\|
                                       |__ /  _  \__\__________/_/  _  \_\_|
--
                                                |  (_)  |    '---'           
 |  (_)  |
                                                \____/                     
\____/

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jun 95 09:19 MST
From: jhoward@argus.lowell.edu (James D. Howard II)
Subject: Re: Dead battry

   On Saturday James Howard said:

   > I foolishly left my headlights
   > on the whole day.  When we returned, the battery was DEAD.  Since we
   > were at the top of a long, downhill stretch of road, I had my
   > companions push me to the road, and down I went.  Still wouldn't
   > start.  I had to roll down in 4th for a mile, with the ignition on so
   > the alternator would charge, before it finally started.  

   This will happen if you have capacitance discharge ignition. On the good 
   old points/coil system it should start right away. The CDI unit requires 
   power from the battery before it will fire. What vehicle and ignition 
   system do you have?

 It is a Series III.  The PO replaced the points with an Allison
electronic ignition in 1977 (I have the receipt).  It uses the
origianl coil.  If this happens again, I guess I should pull out my spare
distributor that has the points in it to get it started again.  That
is, unless there is a long hill again.

James

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jun 95 09:52:11 MST
From: DEBROWN@SRP.GOV
Subject: Found the 109 overheating problem!

FROM:  David Brown                           Internet: debrown@srp.gov
       Computer Graphics Specialist * Mapping Services & Engr Graphics
       PAB219 (602)236-3544 -  Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486
SUBJECT: Found the 109 overheating problem!
Hello all, I had mentioned an overheating problem with the 109 (running
right below the "red" area all the time.) and was directed to check the
thermostat, and then the radiator. After ordering, receiving, and
installing a new thermostat, I checked the old t-stat, and it opened in
hot water just fine. So, I decided to remove the radiator to have it
"rotted out". After I removed it, it still weighed a bit much, and even
with all the fluid drained, it still had a sloshy sound when shaken. In
other words, there's water trapped in it, therefore, something is really
plugged up with it!

So, it's in the back of the Acura, and I'll be taking it to the radiator
man today...

#=======#                Never doubt that a small group of individuals
|__|__|__\___            can change the world... indeed, it's the only
| _|  |   |_ |}          thing that ever has.
"(_)""""""(_)"                                          -Margaret Mead

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jun 1995 10:56:57 -0700
From: john@oaty.com (John Grant)
Subject: Re: RR A/C, Heater, & Fog Machine

><will it the work> if I just pin the flap in the fresh
>position?  Waddya think?  Huh?

>From personal experience I can say that it works fine. Actually I can't
remember what life was like *before* the valve broke. Anyway, last week I
was in a really smelly area and I wished that I'd replaced the valve -
can't win !

                                John

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jun 95 13:32:46 MST
From: DEBROWN@SRP.GOV
Subject: Adding to the "hit from the rear" thread...

FROM:  David Brown                           Internet: debrown@srp.gov
       Computer Graphics Specialist * Mapping Services & Engr Graphics
       PAB219 (602)236-3544 -  Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486
SUBJECT: Adding to the "hit from the rear" thread...
Hello, I just thought I'd throw in my "hit from the rear" story...
Within the first 2 weeks of owning my 1970 Land-Rover 109 I was hit in
the rear twice! The first time, I was in Maine, parked along the road
writing a postcard to a hopeful girlfriend in Phoenix Arizona (where I
live) (this was the second day I owned it!) when the person behind me
pulls out, leaving behind his headlight and turn signal! I got out to
look, and there was NO damage to my truck. 25 years old!!! They don't
make 'em like they used to... The next time, was after I returned home
in Arizona, I was stopped, when **BANG**!! The Mazda pickup that was
trying to swerve around me hit me hard enough to half-way close the
sliding window of the LR. I was "a *little* more than *pissed*",
especially when I saw the damage to his truck which was now stopped
right next to my drivers door. His fender, and part of the grill was
destroyed, a 1 inch tear about 2 feet in length in his fender, and I
could see the entire top of the tire while looking down at it! I got out
to assess the damage to *my* rig, (not really being overly concerned
with his Mazda) and *slammed* my door. When I looked at mine, my anger
turned into laughter, and I literally started laughing when I saw that
there was *no* damage to the LR. Not even a scratch! A *very* slight
indentation could be felt along the galvanized edging along the rear
corner, but that was all!

Knowing that he was at fault, and that he'd get a ticked if reported, I
offered him the choice of calling the police, exchanging names and phone
numbers, of just saying "good day". He choose the latter...

I love this truck! But I couldn't help wondering what this would have
done to the LR Discovery... Surely not as bulletproof as the Series IIa!

Dave (whiplash) Brown ;-)
 #=====#         #========#          -------,___
 |___|__\___     |___|__|__\___      |--' |  |  \_|_
 | _ |   |_ |}   | _ |  |   |_ |}    |  _ |--+--|_  |
 "(_)""""(_)"    "(_)"""""""(_)"    ||_/_\___|__/_\_|}
                                       (_)      (_)
 1971 "88" IIa   1970 "109" IIa     1994 Discovery (for sale $30,500)
                 (Tough rear end!)                 (Too hard to "draw")

P.S. I'm "working" on my temper too! Usually not hot-headed!

#=======#                Never doubt that a small group of individuals
|__|__|__\___            can change the world... indeed, it's the only
| _|  |   |_ |}          thing that ever has.
"(_)""""""(_)"                                          -Margaret Mead

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jun 95 14:44:37 MST
From: DEBROWN@SRP.GOV
Subject: Thanks!

FROM:  David Brown                           Internet: debrown@srp.gov
       Computer Graphics Specialist * Mapping Services & Engr Graphics
       PAB219 (602)236-3544 -  Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486
SUBJECT: Thanks!
William, Thanks for the input! When I first received the new track rod,
I thought that maybe the old one was good since they *both* weren't
threaded to the end. Then when I actually removed the old one, the
threads are really warn down, and in fact the tie rod end threads were
really warn to match. So.... I need to place an order for new tie rod
end(s)... (May as well get both!)

I'm thinking of ordering them from the UK as they are FAR cheaper than
the US, and I need a swivel ball for the 109 as well. (Also, all the
front axle seals, swivel seals, and pinion seals for both the 88 and
109.)

Any recommendations on who to order from in the UK? Who would ship to
the US? I also want some "white spoke" wheels for the 88, and can't
locate any in the US.

Thanks,

P.S. The radiator from the 109 flows fine. My overheating must be
somewhere else! I'll try to "see" how it flows after I reinstall the
radiator, and then check out the vacuum advance unit. Any more
suggestions? (My timing light is broke n, don't know what's going on
there...)

#=======#                Never doubt that a small group of individuals
|__|__|__\___            can change the world... indeed, it's the only
| _|  |   |_ |}          thing that ever has.
"(_)""""""(_)"                                          -Margaret Mead

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jun 1995 20:33:30 GMT
From: johnliu@lainet.com (John Y. Liu)
Subject: Re Directional Tread

It was written

>Hi, applying a bit of probability science
>Theory :  Set the tread direction for the FRONT-NEARSIDE becasue :
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
>stress.  This is because of those things called roundabouts, where all weight
>is placed on that corner.

On the subject of tire failure due to punctures, I have heard that flats 
most often strike the right rear tire.  The explanation is that traffic, 
assisted by the roadway curvature, brushes the road debris to the right edge 
of the roadway, and then your right front tire runs over the nail or screw 
or whatever and flips it up on end so it can puncture your right rear tire.  
Perhaps this is relevant to the tread direction question that was being 
discussed.

------------------------------

From: "Russell G. Dushin" <dushinrg@pr.cyanamid.com>
Subject: Re: My Rover Is Almost Sold -- And I'm Sad
Date: Mon, 12 Jun 95 18:37:24 EDT

> Has anyone else figured their cost per mile for their Rover?  I'd be 
> interested to hear.

Well, not for the various Rovers, but I did it once for a Dodge Dart
I put many miles on.....neglecting gas and oil, but including insurance,
registration, inspections, AND original (used) cost, it was $0.04/mile.  That
included, by the way, a $125 needless expense for a valve job/head
regrind (on a 318 V8) and the $48 (needed) subsequent expense for
a timing chain and gear.

Now, add the guzzoline, and we're into the teens of cents per mile.

Actually, did this once for comparison....wanted to know how many miles
I would have to travel in my guzzler dart before the $/mile figure, 
including cost of the car and insurance, etc. would approach that of
of something a tad more expensive and better on gas...my bmw, for instance.
I think it was something like 20K miles, which I do in a year regularly,
so I decided that going upscale could actually pay off quickly provided
one drives enough.  YMMV, especially those of you who really shell out
for petrol.

To bring this conversation back to roverdom, let's ask a simple question:

IF: I bought a D90 (don't worry folks, this is a hypothetical question),
and let it be a used one, for somewhere around $20K (and not a dime
more, dammit), and if said D90 earned itself 14 mpg on average (vs. a 
mere 11 mpg for daNige), and assuming I neglect to get collision on
the thing so's insurance is more or less comparable (until I go for
those vintage plates), and assuming I pay for service 'cause the
thing is still under warranty and I don't care to void it (so's no
matter how you cut it the maintenance costs are comparable or
worse)......THEN: how many miles do I have to drive it before it
"pays for itself" (vs. Nigel).

OK, it's an oversimplification, but the $0.03/mile on gas goes this
far: ($20K-2.3K)/$0.03=590K miles.  Now, consider adding collision
and matters get worse.....and whatta hell makes you think that
D90 is gonna go 600K miles, anyway?  

OK,OK, I can hear the grumblings....but please note, I've done this
for a used D90 at today's realistic used selling price-a bargin price,
I might add.....I could'a done it for a 4.0 SE.....

Ohhhhhhh.  I hear you.  You wanna know how much time I would have
saved by driving that 90....well, let's assume it takes 20% longer
to get there in my SII, and that your D90 will do, on average,
45 mph (not unrealistic, in fact probably overly optimistic, 'specially
in these parts)......thus that 590K miles would have taken 13.11K 
hours (546 days of Ben Smith driving) in a 90, or 15.73K hours (655
days) in Nigel, for a difference of 2.62K hours (109 days-no folks,
this wasn't planned....Nigel is an 88).  BUT, let's not forget,
I was smiling during those 109 days AND had that many more opportunities
to meet all those fine young ladies who regularly flock to my tailgate
to "stroke the canvas", so to speak.

And one of those fine young ladies may just turn out to be RICH!

no, not Rich Ziegler,
rd/nige

------------------------------

From: "Russell G. Dushin" <dushinrg@pr.cyanamid.com>
Subject: Swivel Pin Rebuild... (fwd)
Date: Mon, 12 Jun 95 18:53:04 EDT

> If you buy a swivel pin rebuild kit, be a bit careful.  As I recall, the
snip
> I had the kit for my '66 88 and found it wasn't suitable and ended up buying 
> all the individual bits.

The one I got for Nigel ('60 SII 88, with the track rod attached to the
steering arms on TOP of the swivel housing rather than below as on
IIa and IIIs) worked just fine.  Sorry, don't have the part number
handy, but it came from RN (for about $100 or so).  You will require
a hefty press or get someone to install the babies for you (into the
swivel pins themselves).

Replacing those old worn out spring and cone setups with the Railco
bushes made ALL the difference in the world (and I did try new springs
and cones first).

do it,
rd/nige

------------------------------

Date: 12 Jun 95 17:58:14 EDT
From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com>
Subject: Re: Swivel pin rebuild -- advice?

> After all,how many Land Rovers do you see with
> a horizontal front wheel due to swivel pin failure?
> Cheers
> Mike Rooth

One - Gunther's old 110 (beefed up with a 6-cyl. VM Turbodiesel @ 160 bhp),
after accidentally jumping a sand dune in Algeria. Negotiated 15 meters in
free flight and came to a very abrupt and hard landing in soft sand. When
Gunter got out he stood on his front left wheel lying next to the drivers
door... the bottom swivel pin had sheared right off. They got out of there
and made it 3,000 miles back with an incredibly ingenious makeshift fix-it.
If the details interest you, the whole story was covered in a 1991 autumn
edition of LRO magazine - it also shows Markus skiing (with real skis) down
a 100 ft. dune in the Grand Erg.
So: Swivel pins may be very strong indeed, but they make a lousy landing gear...
(Tread lightly - and touch down easy!)

Cheers,
Stefan
<Stefan R. Jacob, 100043.2400@CompuServe.com>

------------------------------

Date: 12 Jun 95 17:57:43 EDT
From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com>
Subject: Re: Tires on a 109

205 R 16 tires on a Series 109 look crap. In fact, they even look crap on
a RR. On a S.III 109, 235/85 is the way to go - looks good, feels good, and
they're unstoppable off-road (I'm talking out of own experience). In low
ratio you still have more than enough torque to turn those things. In high
ratio, with the "modest" power of a 4-cyl the only thing you'll ruin is
the nerves of the drivers behind you, but certainly none of your drivetrain
components, not even w/overdrive - provided you use the OD as an extended
5th gear for on-road cruising *only*, as it is intended (YMMV, naturally).
Remember, the S.III 109 is fitted with a Salisbury rear axle, and that thing
*doesn't break* - take my word for it.

Stefan
<Stefan R. Jacob, 100043.2400@CompuServe.com>

------------------------------

Date: 12 Jun 95 17:57:58 EDT
From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com>
Subject: Re: Disco: LH to RH drive, possible ?

> is it possible to modify a LH Discovery (US model) to RH drive ?
> (Like the Series I~III models).

It is possible, yes. But...  You'll need additional extra parts at a value
of several K $, and you'll be working on that beast for weeks. Same goes
for the Series BTW, except that you could get most parts needed 2nd hand.
The amount of work involved is punishing (just think of the relocation of
all the wirings and electrics #-| ). Quicker - and possibly even cheaper - :
Sell the LHD and buy a RHD. Or keep the LHD and enjoy being different...

Stefan
<Stefan R. Jacob, 100043.2400@CompuServe.com>

------------------------------

From: Sanna@aol.com
Date: Mon, 12 Jun 1995 19:54:32 -0400
Subject: Re: RR A/C, Heater, & Fog Machine

Well, I did it.  On Sunday I tore the dash out of the RR, found the
fresh/recirc (took a while - the manual shows you what it looks like, but not
where it is), and then strapped the thing open with a cable tie.  Now I'm
just waiting for the first rain.  I'm still wondering how this is going to
affect the A/C.  Someone on this board said that the A/C works in recirc
only.

------------------------------

Date: 12 Jun 95 22:39:16 EDT
From: "WILLIAM  L. LEACOCK" <75473.3572@compuserve.com>
Subject: Split rims

Split wheel rims were used by the army on some Landrovers in the 50's and early
sixties. They came in 2 sizes. a 4.5 inch for 600 tyres and the Austin champ rim
5.50 inches for the 7.50 tyres.
 Many people like them because they think that punctures are easier to repair, I
don't agree. They were discontinued because a) many idiots released the clamp
nuts whilst there was still pressure in the tyres and b) the studs are prone to
breaking  with disastrous results. If the nut rusts to the stud the stud will
often shear when the nut is tried to be released. Take my advise and scrap them.

 I Mitchell  The rear wheel bearings are lubricated by oil from the rear
differential, if the oil level in the diff is low oil will not carry over to the
bearings. Drive flanges are a common cause of oil loss. The front bearings are
lubricated by oil from the swivel housings and again the drive flanges are a
common cause of oil loss as is the swivel housing seal.

 regards  Bill Leacock Limey in exile.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jun 1995 21:57:07 -0500
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Dead Batteries

J. D. Howard writes with problems about a dead battery and an alternator not 
charging:

Alternators need a small voltage to "tickle" or excite the field before 
it'll actually "put out".  If well and truly dead, the alternator can be 
tickled with a lantern battery so that it will start producing from the 
frist revolution, rather than waiting for a miles-long downhill run. Cheers
      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |       Rover Owners' Association of Virginia         |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 804-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    804-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 804-622-7056     |
      *-----------------------------------------------------*

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jun 1995 21:56:58 -0500
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Burglar deterrents

Stefan wrote about the misfortune of one owner:

>I understand he's already inquired if they could get him a big fat Rattler
>or Viper to leave in the back of the vehicle overnight.

Many years ago, I met a couple of chaps touring America by Land-Rover.  They 
had painted "British Trans-America Herpetology Expedition" on the vehicle's 
doors, and if the inner-city louts were too ignorant to grasp the meaning of 
'herpetology' a sign in the rear window read "CAUTION: LIVE SNAKES" in bold 
lettering.  They reported no problems, even on New York streets overnight.
(Brings to mind the "space cadet's" 109 Carawagon with all those radioactive 
symbols and that weird instrumantation.)
      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |       Rover Owners' Association of Virginia         |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 804-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    804-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 804-622-7056     |
      *-----------------------------------------------------*

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jun 1995 23:08:32 -0500 (CDT)
From: David John Place <umplace@cc.UManitoba.CA>
Subject: Re: Return of the Native

Well Spenny, the city didn't do too well with the flood.  The water 
didn't stay in the houses very long but it was long enough to wreck many 
of the floors and wet all the beds, rugs clothing in closets etc.  This 
was a class 5 on a scale of 1-5 Red Cross disaster.  I was surprised to 
see so few Land Rover products.  I would have thought with the salt air 
that aluminum bodied vehicles would have been pretty popular. I went to 
Miss Jean's and Flame in the quarter and Holywood.  Great music.  Dave VE4PN

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jun 1995 05:40:55 GMT
From: johnliu@lainet.com (John Y. Liu)
Subject: Fabric Doors On Rover

Thought I'd pass on an interesting modification I have seen recently.

A local Series III 88" that is used for very heavy offroading (e.g., yearly 
Rubicon runs) is run with soft top and minus door tops.  It used to have 
regular aluminium door bottoms.  Recently the owner removed the aluminium 
door skins (I don't know why -- maybe they were damaged) and replaced them 
with tautly stretched olive green canvas.   The canvas is folded over the 
door frames and held in place with riveted metal strips.   The result 
matches the faded green paint very nicely -- I saw the Rover at least twice 
before I ever noticed the fabric doors -- and has a curiously funky look.  
Hardly stock, but then again this Rover also has a lift, all fenders cut out 
to fit 33" tires, ARB lockers, winch, and copious dents.  Neiher is it 
terribly crashworthy, I suppose, but Jeeps (excuse me) run with soft doors 
all the time and anyway you still have your seat belt and the door frames to 
keep you in the truck.  Now, maybe you could also have a zippered, roll-up 
panel in the door fabric for added ventilation on those 110 degree days in 
the Southern Calfornia desert.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jun 1995 23:38:32 +0100
From: cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine)
Subject: Re: Fabric Doors On Rover

 John Y. Liu <johnliu@lainet.com> writes:

>Recently the owner removed the aluminium 
>door skins (I don't know why -- maybe they were damaged) and replaced them 
>with tautly stretched olive green canvas.   The canvas is folded over the 
>door frames and held in place with riveted metal strips.

 This must be the 88" Series III owned by British Pacific in Burbank.
 I saw it in Hayward last weekend.

 The canvas --like all canvas-- is shrunk onto the door by watering it.

>matches the faded green paint very nicely

 Probably was painted to match.

 Michael Carradine    Carradine Studios                   Tel.500-442-6500
 Architect            Architecture Development Planning   Pgr.510-945-5000
 NCARB RIBA           PO Box 99, Orinda, CA 94563 USA           cs@crl.com

 Mercedes-Benz Unimog 4x4 WWW page at:  http://www.crl.com/~cs/unimog.html

------------------------------

From: Mr Ian Stuart <Ian.Stuart@ed.ac.uk>
Date:          Tue, 13 Jun 1995 08:11:25 +0000
Subject:       re: overdrives + 7.50x16 tyres = ?

>..... what transmission did the 'forest Rover'
> have fitted - the one with the tractor tyres?
I don't know the actual sizes, but the one that's a couple of hours up the 
road from me has tyres that reach the waist-line - anyone want to measure 
it? ;-)

     ----** Ian Stuart (Computing Officer)        +44 31 650 6205
Royal (Dick) School of Veterinary Studies, Edinburgh University. 
WWW sites: Work -- <http://www.vet.ed.ac.uk/>      
       Personal -- <http://www.tardis.ed.ac.uk/~kiz/>

------------------------------

From: Mr Ian Stuart <Ian.Stuart@ed.ac.uk>
Date:          Tue, 13 Jun 1995 08:34:34 +0000
Subject:       Re: Swivel pin rebuild -- advice?

> After all,how many Land Rovers do you see with
> a horizontal front wheel due to swivel pin failure?
Several - but only during comp safari races ;-)
Actually - a number of them are dur to half-shaft breakages

     ----** Ian Stuart (Computing Officer)        +44 31 650 6205
Royal (Dick) School of Veterinary Studies, Edinburgh University. 
WWW sites: Work -- <http://www.vet.ed.ac.uk/>      
       Personal -- <http://www.tardis.ed.ac.uk/~kiz/>

------------------------------

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