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The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

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msgSender linesSubject
1 hugh@nezsdc.fujitsu.co.n36rebuild in progress - small brake question
2 JDolan2109@aol.com 33109/BIG 16's/OD = strain?
3 brian.imdieke@iotp.com (31[not specified]
4 Charlie Wright [cw117@mo54Re: 109/BIG 16's/OD = strain?
5 Steven M Denis [denis@o17winch
6 Dixon Kenner [dkenner@em12Re: Hot in there you bet!
7 Steven M Denis [denis@os26end of the story
8 BobandSueB@aol.com 23Re: heater ??
9 BobandSueB@aol.com 29Re: Skirted thermostst
10 "Matthew Holding (AUS)" 7sub
11 johnliu@lainet.com (John46My Rover Is Almost Sold -- And I'm Sad
12 holland@catapent.com (Sh31Real Hard Tops for Defender 90?
13 jhoward@argus.lowell.edu20Dead battry
14 mtalbot@InterServ.Com (M14Re: Kodiak heater
15 maddeng@Apple.com (gary 22Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest
16 Kelly Minnick [minnick@j14Tops
17 ac443@osfn.rhilinet.gov 18Progress Report
18 "Stephen O'Hearn" [7270037Defender 90 Rear Main Seal Leak
19 Treski@aol.com 7rovers


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From: hugh@nezsdc.fujitsu.co.nz
Date: Sat, 10 Jun 1995 20:07:06 +1200
Subject: rebuild in progress - small brake question

I've been putting off a couple of large jobs for a while, but the time
has come to bite the bullet.  So I've removed the body off the 88 to
get a good look at the chassis.  Fortunately there were no surprises,
but there is still enough work to do.  The big jobs are welding repairs
on the rear chassis cross member, the driver's side outrigger, driver's
footbox, and A-pillars.  And reconditioning the Holden, plus a few
other incidental jobs.

So far I've removed the hard top, roll cage, doors, floor and gearbox
tunnel, rear body, seat box, petrol tank, side skirts and sills, wings,
grille and radiator, windscreen, and the skin off three knuckles.
Tomorrow the head comes off.  It's fun, but she's my daily driver so I
just hope I can keep up the enthusiasm to get it back together again
before Monique wants her car back.

Anyway, the brake question...  one of the incidentals is a partially
seized rear wheel cylinder.  I have a set of seals for it, but I also
just happen to have a brand new pair of wheel cylinders from a 110,
courtesy of a friend.  The 88" brakes use 1" diameter cylinders, but
these new ones are 1 1/16".  Other than that difference they bolt right
in and fit perfectly.  So should I use them?  The larger bore will
be slightly more powerful, yes?, so which axle would they be best used
on?  It would be easy enough to put them on the front, and swap the
front ones to the rear, if that works better.

I'll keep you updated on progress, and doubtless will have other easy
questions from time to time.

Hugh
88" IIA

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From: JDolan2109@aol.com
Date: Sat, 10 Jun 1995 08:42:21 -0400
Subject: 109/BIG 16's/OD = strain?

On Mon., 8 June, Alan Richer wrote:
 What I was told by DAP was to avoid anything over a 205 75R16 tire with a
109 with overdrive as it puts too much of a strain on the Fairey.
-------------
My only thoughts on that is that it might just be too much tire
(circumferentially) for a 109 (additional weight) with 2.25L motor fitted. I
have no experience with the 2.6L or 3.0L (as found in a LR) other than
salvaging parts for use on my P5. I've found that with 16's, my 88" is slower
to come up to speed. Top end and MPG are increased, but with an OD fitted and
a hill encountered, 'split' shifting is repeatedly necessitated to maintain
optimum RPMs. Perhaps this is the strain mentioned? (a *whole* lot of 'split'
shifts can lead to a few 'splat' shifts!) I do try not to subject my OD to
severe load (i.e. abuse) conditions, and try to use it to sustain rpms,
rather than achieve them. Did you get your advice from DAP prior to Bruce's
involvement? I've gotten nothing but good advice from Bruce. His experience
has saved me countless hours of discovering things for myself. My suggestion
is to give him a call and ask for an explanation. Their number is:
802-885-6660. I got my current 'driver' and OD through him, and don't believe
he'll steer you wrong. Even with an 88", I consider going to an agressively
treaded 15" tire for certain conditions as I have often (mostly off road or
deep, heavy snow) found the need for a higher rate of rotational acceleration
at the wheel.
As they say- "different horses for different courses"
See 'ya on the old road...
Jim  '61 88" SW / OD, 1 Bbl weber & 16's   (econobox?)
LR....quite possibly one of the best machines yet devised! 
   see 'ya at Owl's Head!

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Subject: 89 RR Gremlins
From: brian.imdieke@iotp.com (BRIAN IMDIEKE)
Date: Fri, 09 Jun 95 18:07:00 -700

SG> The problem is my tachometer and fuel gauge work intermittently.  Th
SG> are always simultaneous.  The non-functioning periods are solely dep
SG> the temperature inside the vehicle.  After the thing is parked and t
SG> temp reaches 80 degrees F or so (every afternoon from May to October
SG> Tennessee), the needles just lay there.  After I run the AC for 20 m
SG> so and get things good and cooled off, boing!, needles shoot into th
SG> positions and everything's fine.  Things are great on the way into w
SG> morning, but I am never sure how much gas I have until I get almost
SG> the evening.

A friend of mine had a very similar problem in a Ford truck a few years
back.  Finding the problem took quite a while.  Turned out to be a wire
in the wiring harness was cut just a little tiny bit short and when the
pin at the end was pushed into the connector, it just barely touched the
opposing socket.  It worked most of the time, but at just the right
temperature it would stop working.  Maybe you have a similar problem?

You've heard from.....

        Brian Imdieke           <brian.imdieke@iotp.com>
        Phoenix, Arizona
        USA

---
 þ RM 1.3 01654 þ "Stop that, son, you'll go blind."  "I'm over HERE, Dad!"
 * KMail 3.00  IOTP: AZ's LARGEST PCBoard - with INTERNET!

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Date: Sat, 10 Jun 1995 15:19:06 +0059 (BST)
From: Charlie Wright <cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: 109/BIG 16's/OD = strain?

On Sat, 10 Jun 1995 JDolan2109@aol.com wrote:

> On Mon., 8 June, Alan Richer wrote:

>  What I was told by DAP was to avoid anything over a 205 75R16 tire with a
> 109 with overdrive as it puts too much of a strain on the Fairey.

> My only thoughts on that is that it might just be too much tire
> (circumferentially) for a 109 (additional weight) with 2.25L motor fitted. I
> have no experience with the 2.6L or 3.0L (as found in a LR) other than
> salvaging parts for use on my P5. I've found that with 16's, my 88" is slower
> to come up to speed. Top end and MPG are increased, but with an OD fitted and

Sure, larger diameter tyres put more strain on the overdrive, but they 
put more strain on the whole drivetrain.  The point made about maximum 
torque being maximum torque is true, but imagine this scenario to understand.

A) Machine is parked on greased banana peel with small slick tyres. Engage 
gear, and the wheels spin up to speed quickly.  There is little force on 
the components of the drive train, because so little force is required to 
spin the wheels. The drive train won't break, the bearings might burn up 
though ;-)

B) Machine is bolted by its back hubs to two large cement blocks (instead 
of wheels). When you engage the gear, the clutch will slip to a point, 
then the engine will groan, and something bad will happen.  You will 
either kill the engine (lucky), burn out the clutch, break a half-shaft, 
break an overdrive, the gearbox, or the U-joints. More or less in that 
order. Your milage may vary.

Imagine that big tyres are somewhere between the two scenarios. The 
bigger and grippier the tyre, the more it resembles a concrete block. You 
could take off the back body and put on tractor tyres, but you'd 
accelerate slowly and go through a lot of clutch plates.  You could 
imagine this tyre getting bigger and bigger until it's too big to turn 
(or you end up with a chassis dangling between two large wheels and 
doing flips when the gears engage... hmmmm ). This approximates the fixed 
axle.

In reality, just figure out the radius (or diameter) of the old and new. 
Divide new by old, and you get the factor you are gearing it up 
(increasing strain). I bet it isn't enough to worry about. eg. If your 
current diameter is 28", and you add a whole inch in radius, going to 30" 
diameter you're only looking at a 7% increase. Not very much. (going to 
RR diffs is about 33%).

I wouldn't panic about the tyres, just be careful.

Charlie

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Date: Sat, 10 Jun 1995 10:30:27 -0400 (EDT)
From: Steven M Denis  <denis@oswego.Oswego.EDU>
Subject: winch

Someone on the list had a koenig pto winch and wanted crank driven Koenig?
If so I have a need for the PTO job...have the crank driven...hello? 
anybody out there?

steve......

"HEY! NICE JEEP,MISTER!"..........."Look,Kid,it's a ..Oh never mind..."

"NOTAJEEP"-1967 109 Station Wagon          Steven M. Denis
                                           PO Box 296
                                           Fulton, New York USA 
                                                      13069

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Date: Sat, 10 Jun 1995 11:02:53 -0400 (EDT)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.emr.ca>
Subject: Re: Hot in there you bet!

> (Dixon..do you have a early 2,25 with the deep thermostat housing perchance?)
>.
	The II head where the thermostat sat inside the head itself and not
	above?  Nope, though do have one of those on the shelf.  The typical
	early IIA head where the thermostat sits inside the raised block.

	Rgds,

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Date: Sat, 10 Jun 1995 11:15:40 -0400 (EDT)
From: Steven M Denis <denis@oswego.Oswego.EDU>
Subject: end of the story

Ok, I spoke with Carlie Haigh of Rovers North. The 
skirted thermostat is alive and well there.
It is the only unit supplied for series engines.
It *is* a series 3 item.
The difference is that the series 2 and 2a (early) was acually flat on 
top and was held in position by the water outlet. The series 3 unit 
stands proud of the bypass block and is retained by a counterbore inside 
the water outlet.  There is an "O" ring to complete the seal at the top and 
the regular gasket at the base of the outlet....
*IF* you have an early 2a and need to fit a late thermostat, fit the late 
water outlet and "O" ring.......fair enough? 
gosh I thought Taylor was back for a bit...

steve.....

"HEY! NICE JEEP,MISTER!"..........."Look,Kid,it's a ..Oh never mind..."

"NOTAJEEP"-1967 109 Station Wagon          Steven M. Denis
                                           PO Box 296
                                           Fulton, New York USA 
                                                      13069

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From: BobandSueB@aol.com
Date: Sat, 10 Jun 1995 12:05:30 -0400
Subject: Re: heater ??

In a message dated 95-06-10 04:43:41 EDT, Fredrick Elsworth wrote,

>I remember a few days back someone said that their Kodiak Series III heater
>had three speeds.  I just got an unbeatable deal on a Kodiak Mark III heater
>(free!) for my '71 Series IIA but it only has one wire coming out of the
>motor.  In my book this means one speed unless there is a special switch

that
>I'm missing.  I like the idea of more heat in the winter but not the idea of
>only one setting.   Any ideas???

>.
An additional idea on the heaters, someone told me that he used a heater
motor from a chevy luv which is also isuzu(I think) and it has three speed
plus it fit right in and blew harder.

Bob Bernard

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From: BobandSueB@aol.com
Date: Sat, 10 Jun 1995 12:10:05 -0400
Subject: Re: Skirted thermostst

In a message dated 95-06-10 04:43:41 EDT, you write:

>From: growl@hsmpk14a-101.Eng.Sun.COM (William L. Grouell)
>Subject: Re: Hot in there you bet!
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 12 lines)]
>catalog but they are NLS. Unless they *all* lied to me. Maybe you can order
>for 

I got two of the correct thermostats just a few months ago from British
Pacific. By the way, the one that had a flat thermostat also had cracks in
the head.
The old 21/4 head that has a deeper thermostat hole is a S2 it also requires
adifferent timing chain/front cover and different waterpump, but I dont know
if the thermostat is smaller
One of the reaseons for the use of the flat thermostat was,years ago, some
one put out a list of NAPA parts that would fit L/R and it gave the P/N
 Thats where I first found it and before I was aware of the bypass problem.
Rovers North had a really good explanation about the thermostat and bypass in
one of their newsletters.

Bob Bernard

Bob Bernard

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Date: 10 Jun 95 15:24:22 EDT
From: "Matthew Holding (AUS)" <100036.2103@compuserve.com>
Subject: sub

unsubscribe land-rover-owner
subscribe land-rover-owner-digest

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Date: Sat, 10 Jun 1995 20:56:04 GMT
From: johnliu@lainet.com (John Y. Liu)
Subject: My Rover Is Almost Sold -- And I'm Sad

Well, my Sr IIA 109 is nearly sold, and I'm sad about it.

Rover (it never did acquire a name) was taken to the mechanic for an 
inspection, compression check, and road test, which it passed with flying 
colors albeit the swivel ball pin bushes will need to be rebuilt "in the 
next few years" (mechanic's words.)  The PNO (prospective new owner) will be 
coming back in the next week or so to arrange payment and take away my 
truck.  Fortunately, he looks to be an enthusiastic Rover owner, and the 
truck will have a active, productive working life (he is a carpenter) 
without any off-roading of a destructive nature, so my conscience is pretty 
clear.  And my wife (who is sadder than me about this, believe it or not) 
has agreed that when we are in England next year we DEFINITELY ARE BUYING 
ANOTHER ROVER.  And, since this is the real world, the $10,000 I'm getting 
will be very useful in the meantime.

We who own old vehicles are often accused of financial irresponsibility, but 
how else can you have the pleasure of owning a wonderfully unique vehicle, 
consuming plenty of ale and bangers at various pleasant British car shows, 
meeting (in person and on-line) a lot of very nice people, selling it for, 
well, not a fortune but still a little more than you paid for it, and -- in 
the final analysis -- having owned and driven a truck for nothing more than 
the cost of fuel, insurance, and maintenance?  As a point of interest, I 
reviewed my records and find that the cost of driving the Rover for three 
years has been $0.13/mile for repairs, maintenance,and depreciation (the 
latter being negative depreciation, that is, appreciation),  $0.15/mile for 
insurance (in Southern California!), and $0.09/mile for gas, for a total of 
$0.37/mile.  In comparison, my last "new" car (a 1986 Merkur XR4Ti) cost a 
total of $0.53/mile.  (Then again, my wife's 1986 Toyota Corolla, bought 
used at a very low price and virtually trouble-free for the last 65,000 
miles, has cost only about $0.20/mile.)  

Has anyone else figured their cost per mile for their Rover?  I'd be 
interested to hear.

Sorry to use the mailing list for personal therapy, so to speak, but I 
thought that those on this list would understand my sentiments.  And I hope 
you all won't mind me staying on the list, even though I will temporarily no 
longer be an actual Rover owner.  Perhaps my continued ownership of a stack 
of LRO magazines, Rover books, miscellaneous spare parts, and a very greasy 
Haynes manual will continue to qualify me as a Land Rover owner, in spirit 
at least.  Cheers!

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From: holland@catapent.com (Shannon Holland)
Subject: Real Hard Tops for Defender 90?
Date: Sat, 10 Jun 1995 14:14:36 -0700 (PDT)

I know this has been mentioned on the list before, but I'm interested in a 
real aluminum top for the US defender 90. I remember hearing earlier this
year that 40 or so Defenders were shipped to the US with the aluminum top.
I checked with our local dealer (San Jose British Motors) and not only were
they completely clueless about aluminum tops they were rude/arrogant/stupid
enough to make me decide that I didn't want to buy anything from them. (I've
heard good reports regarding the San Francisco dealer, so I'll try there n
next.)

So, I was wondering if anyone knew anything more about the availability
of metal tops? One thing I was considering doing was buying the standard
soft top model (it is summer anyway!) and then ordering a real top from
England. If I were to take this route I would also want to change the roll
cage as well (to go for a completely external cage so as to protect the
vehicle somewhat as well as the passesngers in the event of a rollover!).

How hard would this be to do? Is it even possible (will the UK top fit on
the US body?). Would I be better off buying the fiberglass top (and just
hope I don't hit a tree and break it!)?

Thanks for any input! I've been wanting to buy a land rover for some time 
now (recently went off-roading for a day in one in England) and have
finally decided that I just need to actually get one!

shannon

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Date: Sat, 10 Jun 95 18:23 MST
From: jhoward@argus.lowell.edu (James D. Howard II)
Subject: Dead battry

For some crazy reason, we decided to climb Humphreys Peak here in
Arizona today.  To get there you drive about 5 miles up a road to the
ski area, then hike from 9500 to 12,600 feet in what is left of the
snow (plenty for backcountry skiing).  I foolishly left my headlights
on the whole day.  When we returned, the battery was DEAD.  Since we
were at the top of a long, downhill stretch of road, I had my
companions push me to the road, and down I went.  Still wouldn't
start.  I had to roll down in 4th for a mile, with the ignition on so
the alternator would charge, before it finally started.  Seems the
battery was too dead to provide enough power for the ignition.  I have
never had this problem on any other vehicle.  Usually the alternator
can provide the power.  Anyone know why?

James
 

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Date: Sat, 10 Jun 95 18:39:30 PDT
From: mtalbot@InterServ.Com (Mark Talbot)
Subject: Re: Kodiak heater

All, 

My kodiak heater fitted on my parts Land ROver goes through the right side 
footweel where the right hand side pedal should go. I have a spare set of 
knobs for a kodiak. I have looked into fitting the kodiak into my SIII but I 
will have to cut the lower dash, something I don't want to do. The heater only 
has one wire coming out of the motor. 

Mark

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Date: Sat, 10 Jun 95 19:13:39 -0700
From: maddeng@Apple.com (gary madden)
Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

RE: Defender 90 vandlalism

For day use, I take one or two of my dogs with me, which is quite a
discouragement for car-jackers here in the states. Guarding the Land Rover
is great sport for my canine rovers, who take to napping in the boot where
they cannot be seen unless one gets up close to the vehicle.  

For overnight parking, padlocking the bonnet makes sense, but there doesn't
seem to be any convenient way to do this.  I trust that the veterans weld
some type of hook to the bonnet and use a chain?

>Date: 09 Jun 95 04:18:15 EDT
>From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com>
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 36 lines)]
>it just *might* not be the radiator...
>Stefan
><Stefan R. Jacob, 100043.2400@CompuServe.com>

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From: Kelly Minnick <minnick@joker.chinalake.navy.mil>
Subject: Tops
Date: Sat, 10 Jun 95 19:11:45 PDT

RE:tops
I took my SWB Tropical off.  It was used as a roof rack, so I really had
to.  45 Rivets, 12 bolts and 8 smaller ones later, and lo an behold - two
pieces.  I'll have the nicest looking top that no one sees (the part under
the second skin).  My problem is the delay in getting the second skin back
on.  Doesn't seem to be a rush right now!
Kelly Minnick  '73 88" Safari & '91 RR
Ridgecrest, CA

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Date: Sat, 10 Jun 1995 22:26:23 -0400
From: ac443@osfn.rhilinet.gov (John Karlsson)
Subject: Progress Report

I now have a rolling chassis - just!  Spings and axles are in place.  Now it
is time to put the LR project to rest so I can get the boat ready to launch. 
I have received new hydraulics and new doorposts and footwells for the
bulkhead, so I should be able to keep myself thoroughly entertained during the
summer, _if_ I'm not playing boat all the time.
 
I took my dismantled engine to the local engine shop and got a whopping, big
estimate for machine work.  Since I have to rest for the summer anyway, I'm
looking at alternatives to a total rebuild.  One possibility seems to be
installing a used 2.5 Diesel.  Any opinions?
 
John Karlsson
Hope Valley, RI

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Date: 10 Jun 95 23:42:50 EDT
From: "Stephen O'Hearn" <72700.3262@compuserve.com>
Subject: Defender 90 Rear Main Seal Leak

Hi all,

Based on my experience today I have a suggestion to
pass on to anyone with a U.S. spec Defender 90 and
the R380 5-spd (reverse to the right) or a U.S. spec
5-spd Discovery (might apply to others as well):

If your transmission bellhousing drain slot (there is no
wading plug on the U.S. spec V-8 / R380 combo) is
filled with sealant, unplug it, at least once in a while to
check for oil leaks.

I did this some time back and I'm glad I did because
this morning I discovered that my engine's rear crank-
shaft seal is no longer performing its job to the
extent of allowing a puddle to be produced, this with
only 12,700 miles on the odometer. Of course, since I
just had the front crankshaft seal replaced about 5
weeks ago I suppose I should have anticipated this
eventuality <g>.

This one is going to cost Land Rover a fair bit of
money. Unfortunately my faith in this vehicle has
suffered a setback as well.

- Stephen (now heard repeatedly muttering "bugger it")

+--------------------------------------------------------------------------+
| Stephen O'Hearn               1994        LAND-            Tread Lightly |
| El Segundo, CA, USA         DEFENDER        -ROVER         on Public and |
| 72700.3262@compuserve.com      90     The Best 4x4xFar     Private Lands |
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------+

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From: Treski@aol.com
Date: Sun, 11 Jun 1995 01:49:03 -0400
Subject: rovers

subscribe

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