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Date: 09 Jun 95 04:18:15 EDT
From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com>
Subject: Vandalism

A brand new Defender 90 300 TDi softtop of a friend of mine has fallen
victim to a meanwhile well-known scourge of our times, inner city vandalism.
This is a Defender with the regular (military) tarp, so it is in fact an
open vehicle - a temptation the scum roaming our streets at night seemingly
can't resist.
In the case of my friend, he drove off in the morning (the car had been 
parked in the street overnight) and after a minute or so had liquids - 
coolant, diesel, brake fluid, oil - dripping and squirting all over the place.
He opened the bonnet to find that *all* caps of everything - coolant reservoir,
oil filler, brake & clutch cylinder, wiper washer - had been removed, hoses
had been pulled off at several places, even the dipstick had been pulled out
and thrown away. Some braindead hoodlum had crawled in through the back

cut it up) and opened the bonnet from the inside. The only comment from the
police, "You shouldn't leave such a vehicle standing in the street."
Sure, it's always the victims fault for becoming a victim, right?

Fortunately for my friend a major retailer in Holland had all the missing
or damaged parts in stock and sent them off via express carrier, so they
arrived the same day in the evening - at a price.
I told him of the old 'Series days' and advised him to secure his bonnet
with the good ol' latch & padlock technique that us LR veterans have grown
up with. There's also a pet shop right next to where my friend lives, and
I understand he's already inquired if they could get him a big fat Rattler
or Viper to leave in the back of the car overnight.
So, if again someone tampers with his car at night and hears something hissing
it just *might* not be the radiator...

Stefan
<Stefan R. Jacob, 100043.2400@CompuServe.com>

------------------------------

From: Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: Swivel pin rebuild -- advice?
Date: Fri, 9 Jun 95 9:50:15 BST

> > Its not a job you want to do if it can be avoided!
> > With the amount of play you mention,it doesnt sound
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 14 lines)]
> like a case for not driving it again until it's fixed. Like real dangerous.
> R, bg 
Bill,
There are many things its not,and dangerous is one of them!Its not
right,desirable,or good for tyre wear,but its also not too bad.
I've had almost that play at the brake drum rim.When you look
at the size of the bits involved,and the way they are put together,
they aint going anywhere.If I wanted to be picky about it,and the
swivel was a bit torn up,I'd fit a new top swivel,but that's about
the height of it.After all,how many Land Rovers do you see with
a horizontal front wheel due to swivel pin failure?
Cheers
Mike Rooth

------------------------------

From: Spenny@aol.com
Date: Fri, 9 Jun 1995 06:30:15 -0400
Subject: re: vandalism

Stefan wrote:
    I understand he's already inquired if they could get 
    him a big fat Rattler

I am ssssssshocked, that's disssssssssgussssting! <g>

spenny

------------------------------

Subject: engine rebuilds for longer life
From: rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (Robin Craig)
Date: Thu, 08 Jun 95 21:13:41 -0500

At the shop where I work we rebuild any engine and type, ie propane 
diesel gas etc.

We completely rebuild everything to my satisfaction, except I belive that 
the re use of bolts / cap scews that have been previously torqued to be 
really cheap, but that is an inductry standard for the most part.

I'll run through what happens at the shop, excuse the typos 'cos this is 
live for me!

Upon receipt the engine is completly dissassembled, head off, valves and 
springs out, pistons out, rods out , crank out, cam out, lifters, cam 
bearings  you name it. Frost plugs etc are knocked out.

Parts (all except aluminum cos they dissolve) go into the hot tank along 
with the block and cam etc.

Any aluminum parts go into a giant dishwasher type unit that does for 
alumnium bits.

After hot tanking for about 4/5 hours with agitation all is removed and 
rinsed with hot water and compressed air , then dried off.

Head and block is then magnafluxed.

Bores usually get .010" over and same with crank. cam is left alone and 
put back to factory spec usually.

rods are re sized and honed, bores always get honed too.

new pistons go onto old rods,

head shop checks out seats valves and springs. seats are re done, valves 
glass beaded and re ground if they mic up ok. New guides if the head 
neads it. Spring pressures checked.

resurface head if it needs it aswell. The into the dishwasher and rinsed 
and dried before finally assembly. 

Locks etc re used, valves get lubed before installation, usually witha 
special heavy STP gunk. head then sent to assembly dept to mate up with 
block.

Block is put together on a real clean bench. all parts are lubed with STP 
gunk. NOT GREASE.

Once block and head are back together we use a pressurized iol pig to 
force oil through the oil galleries and into the bearing surfaces to 
ensure a wet start up.

As block is built it is painted on the bench.

Detroit Diesel green is the close match to Land Rover colour.

Quit often complete motor is hooked up to fuel etc and fired up before it 
leaves the shop just so that we can be extra sur on some of the big 
engines.

BTW all heads are vacuum tested with the valves to ensure good sealing.

We can and do assemble heads and leak test them under water in a big tank 
if needs be.

We re weld most of our own aluminum heads, if the head has erosion after 
a blown gasket etc.

Cast heads go out but i'm trying to change that one. We have an oven and 
pre and post head the heads.

I feel our shop has some fine workers wiht excellent skills that get 
wasted alot of the times, as the customer doesnt take the same lvel of 
care that we do. Event hought they kid themselves that they do.

As a result they get a head sent in and re built and then sit the head 
machnied surface down on the driveway!! Seen it! Or they ignore the 
instructions we give about valve adjustment etc.

But they do come back!!

We do any head from BIG Caterpillar engines to weany one cylinder 
jobbies.

We do engines from teeny cars to BIG detroits too. as long as they pay!

We even re weld cranks if need be and re machine them ourselves.

TTFN

Robin Craig

--
Robin Craig, rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Ottawa, Ont. |  Ottawa Valley Land Rovers

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date:          Fri, 9 Jun 1995 07:16:40 GMT -0600
Subject:       Engine rebuilds: Any gotchas?

>Cummins Diesel green is a really close match to the original LR green.

I believe that Detroit Diesel Alpine Green is a closer match.

>Use lots (really lots) of grease and oil during the reassembly.  

Ahmen
I use Engine Assembly Grease (I forget the mfg.) and use a mixture
(1:1) of  STP and 30W on the pistons (it doesn't run off as quickly 
if you have to leave the project for a day or two).
Also be very careful on the rear main cork seals if you trim them 
according to the manual, it's easy to cut them too much. Thin shim 
stock works reasonably well for preventing damage to them when you 
insert the rear main cap.
My two cents worth.

ps. Has anyone out there used the replacement timing gears advertised 
in the L/R Owner Digest instead of a timing chain. I'm very intrigued 
by them as I find gears to be more reliable generally.
Tom

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578         Four wheel drive allows you to get
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date:          Fri, 9 Jun 1995 07:33:59 GMT -0600
Subject:       Re: Swivel pin rebuild -- advice?

>Scotty is currently dead set against gaiters.

That's one opinion, here's another. I've been driving Rovers for 
a little over 20 years, both with & w/out gaiters. I like 'em. Gravel 
roads will lead to pitted swivels quickly and lots of snow driving can 
damage the oil seals as you turn full lock to full lock. The snow 
gets packed tighter and tighter and turns to ice, very hard.
Tom

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578         Four wheel drive allows you to get
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Jun 1995 08:37:47 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Alrik L. Svenson" <asvenson@cais.cais.com>
Subject: Turn Signals on RR

My Parents own a '89 RR which is having a strange problem with the turn 
signals.  The fuse was blown so I replaced it.  The turn signals 
would work with the power on but the engine not running.  When the engine 
was started though, the fuse would blow again.  Their mechanic checked the 
alternator and all light fixtures for corrosion and all seem to be ok.

Could this be the voltage regulator or is there some electronic 
control unit which is causing problems?  I would be interested in hearing 
from those who have experienced similar electrical problems.

Thanks. 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Jun 1995 09:18:20 -0400 (EDT)
From: Steven M Denis  <denis@oswego.Oswego.EDU>
Subject: Hot in there you bet!

That skirted thermostat *is* available and *must* be used!!!
The engineering department didn't give a hoot if your butt was toasty or 
not...many Land Rovers came w/o a heater at all..That skirt is to block 
off the by-pass so that *all* the coolant flows through the 
radiator..with a "flat" thermostat part of the coolant just goes round 
and round getting hotter and hotter until the #4 exhaust valve gives up 
and/or the head cracks.....

steve....

"HEY! NICE JEEP,MISTER!"..........."Look,Kid,it's a ..Oh never mind..."

"NOTAJEEP"-1967 109 Station Wagon          Steven M. Denis
                                           PO Box 296
                                           Fulton, New York USA 
                                                      13069

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Jun 1995 08:49:08 -0500 (CDT)
From: ccray@showme.missouri.edu
Subject: Re: engine rebuilds for longer life

On Thu, 8 Jun 1995, Robin Craig wrote:

Thanks, I liked the details...  Planning on a rebuild within the
next 6 months on a "spare engine"...

> Upon receipt the engine is completly dissassembled, head off, valves and 
> springs out, pistons out, rods out , crank out, cam out, lifters, cam 
> bearings  you name it. Frost plugs etc are knocked out.

do you worry about keeping the push rods, lifters in sync so they
can go back in where they came out or is that really necessary...
 
> Parts (all except aluminum cos they dissolve) go into the hot tank along 
> with the block and cam etc.
> bearings  you name it. Frost plugs etc are knocked out.

what about the LR head -- it has aluminum plugs.  can you hot tank
it.  if the aluminum disolves out, how do you replace the plugs...

---------------------------------------------------------------------
Ray Harder                 Columbia, Missouri   314-882-2000
---------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Jun 1995 07:08:56 -0700
From: gpool@pacific.pacific.net (Granville B. Pool)
Subject: Re: Camel Trophy photos

>>Also in Four-Wheeler, there was a brief article about the finals for the
>>Camel Trophy.  Rather out-of-date for we of the net who can get blow-by-blow
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 14 lines)]
>Mark Maslar
>mark.maslar@software.rockwell.com

OK I exaggerated a bit.  There is also a Camel Trophy log on the on-line 4x4
magazine.  The Web address for the Camel Trophy report, which does have some
photos, is:

    <http://www.4x44u.com/pub/k2/am4x44u/whats_new/camelt1.htm>

Enjoy.

Granville B. Pool, Redwood Valley, CA
<gpool@pacific.pacific.net>
(707)485-7220 (home)   (707)463-4265 (work)
'73 Land-Rover 88, more LRs, Austin Champ, BMW 3.0si, Peugeot 505 Turbo...

------------------------------

From: Sanna@aol.com
Date: Fri, 9 Jun 1995 10:41:55 -0400
Subject: Parts Car

Hey Tom - Did you ever get out to Cambridge to check out Ibenez's LR?  Timing
chains have always been the bane of my IIa, as well.  I got quite good at
replacing chains and worn vibration dampers.  The final fix, however, was a
new oil pump and main bearings.  Even when Lulubelle was brand new she never
had more than 40lbs oil pressure.  I was alwas loosing timing components.
 The sound of a whipping chain on deceleration was often the sound of the
car.  Since the last rebuild (about 150,000 miles ago), I get a consistant 60
lbs pressure, and I haven't heard a peep from the front of the engine since.
 The timimg gear arrangement sounds interesting, though.

TS

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Jun 1995 08:03:14 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jim Russell <jrussell@netcom.com>
Subject: Swivel Pin Rebuild...

If you buy a swivel pin rebuild kit, be a bit careful.  As I recall, the
PN 532268 kit is for pins using 3/8" studs for earlier type Railco bush
installations and for conversion of the cone and spring type damping.  It
has top pins that are pressed into the bracket.  Later types used 7/16"
studs/bolts and I believe the top pin is a solid piece.  I think the 
actual top pin diameter and ID of the Railco bush is different, too.

I had the kit for my '66 88 and found it wasn't suitable and ended up buying 
all the individual bits.

                  Jim Russell   ====   jrussell@netcom.com
                         (Seattle -- San Francisco)            

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 07 Jun 1995 16:42:18 GMT
From: Tim Guy <timbo@hurtwood.demon.co.uk>
Subject: AHHHHHHHH

AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH, Why is it everyone in the US is crying out for a good
hard top, and in the UK I cant get a softstop for Love nor money. Well thats
not true, I could get one at about =A32000 pounds (roll bar, poles, etc). T=
he
only way I can really buy one is to sell mine and buy a Ex MOD one, but the=
re
only 2.5D, so then id have to convert the engine to some better.

I cant take this anymore.

Pigs, Pigs, I see Pigs, Bloody big pink talking pigs, and there come towards
me, aaaaaaaaaahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh.
 
*********************************************************
* Tim Guy                                               *
* Email - Timbo@hurtwood.demon.co.uk                    *
*********************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Jun 1995 11:26:52 -0400 (EDT)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.emr.ca>
Subject: Re: Hot in there you bet!

On Fri, 9 Jun 1995, Steven M Denis wrote:

> That skirted thermostat *is* available and *must* be used!!!

	Not all are available.  One of the low compression heads has a 
	slightly smaller diameter hole for the thermostat.  I tried
	several from RN and none would fit in.  Not even close.
	An option is to put a blanking plate over the bypass and drill
	a 5/16" hole in the centre

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Jun 1995 09:34:16 -0700
From: growl@hsmpk14a-101.Eng.Sun.COM (William L. Grouell)
Subject: Re: Hot in there you bet!

> That skirted thermostat *is* available and *must* be used!!!
> steve....

  Ok, tell me where to get one.
Then tell me why my temp gauge is nailed to 160F with the unskirted thermo
installed about a month ago.

R, bg
 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Jun 1995 14:31:38 +0059 (BST)
From: Charlie Wright <cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk>
Subject: Engine rebuilds: Any gotchas? (fwd)

>ps. Has anyone out there used the replacement timing gears advertised 
>in the L/R Owner Digest instead of a timing chain. I'm very intrigued 
>by them as I find gears to be more reliable generally.
>Tom

I would agree about reliability, although a chain running in oil is lower
friction than most gears (more friction loss in BMW's shaft-driven
motorcycles than in a closed chain), they do stretch and can break (same in
motorcycles). 

I have heard good things about the gears, but I suspect that the expense 
involved is such that you could buy and change (yourself) several timing 
chains over the years before the gears are econmical.

Other comments I've heard pointed out that the slop in the drive gear for 
the injection pump (in 2.25 diesel = my particular case) is such that any 
additional precision of the gears is wasted... On a petrol, it might be 
nice, though.  Mostly they are very slick from an engineering point of 
view and they have a certain 'go-faster' value, sort of like chrome 
air-cleaners ('cept you can't see 'em)

Charlie

------------------------------

From: Frederick_O._Ellsworth@bcsmac.org (Frederick O. Ellsworth)
Subject: More Kodiak Heater Questions
Date: 09 Jun 1995 22:40:18 GMT

I remember a few days back someone said that their Kodiak Series III heater
had three speeds.  I just got an unbeatable deal on a Kodiak Mark III heater
(free!) for my '71 Series IIA but it only has one wire coming out of the
motor.  In my book this means one speed unless there is a special switch that
I'm missing.  I like the idea of more heat in the winter but not the idea of
only one setting.   Any ideas???
Also, has anyone out there ever replaced the standard Smiths heater on a '71
with a Kodiak?  It looks like the cutout on the firewall for the Smiths is
bigger than that required by the Kodiak, although I've only eyeballed it at
dusk.  Will I have to make some sort of adaptor plate and will the Kodiak
work with my regular heat distribution box?

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.  

Fred

- sent via an evaluation copy of BulkRate (unregistered).

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Jun 1995 16:04:49 -0700
From: growl@hsmpk14a-101.Eng.Sun.COM (William L. Grouell)
Subject: Re: More Kodiak Heater Questions

> I remember a few days back someone said that their Kodiak Series III heater
> had three speeds.  I just got an unbeatable deal on a Kodiak Mark III heater
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 11 lines)]
> Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.  
> Fred
 The Kodiak came "stock" with a little control panel that had three chrome
knobs; Open-close extenal vent, open-close water valve, two speed fan,
all three are push-pull. The fan speed control is a two position switch that
puts a resistor in the circuit for low speed. This control wore out on mine
and I was unable to find a replacement. Auto parts store has (or can get) a
three speed heater fan switch that has a high enough wattage rating for the
Kodiak fan motor. The Smiths infinitely variable control, found on some
British cars will go into melt down running a Kodiak. A wreaking yard would
yield a fan speed control from some big pig sedan, again, switch and resistors.
 

------------------------------

From: jpappa01@InterServ.Com
Date: Fri, 9 Jun 95 19:07:32 PDT
Subject: Re: 	CAMEL TROPHY RESULTS

Learned today that final results in....

Overall winner of 1995 Camel Trophy was the Czech Republic.

Winner of Team Spirit was Russia.

Team USA finished 11th place - apparently they were doing much better until 
injury befell Daphne Green.

Congrats to all. Can't wait to see the video on this one!

Cheerz
Jim - now completely mad... and loving it!

------------------------------

Date: 09 Jun 95 22:22:02 EDT
From: "WILLIAM  L. LEACOCK" <75473.3572@compuserve.com>
Subject: Misc.

Have just returned from 2 weeks R and R in dear old Blighty, was fortunate to
have a friend who let me double enter his coil sprung ser 1 in the National
Trial for my retirement event, now I plan to try and amke a few comebacks over
the next few years.  Nice to see Bill C, John H ( hope you enjoyed your visit to
gaydon ) and Stefan J..
 A few comments from the mail  I have read so far :
 Pierce,       the retail price for the STC 8018L  was 162.55 pounds in Oct 94
list, exc VAT.

 John Y  Lui. - swivel bearing play,--- first check to ensure that it is all
swivel bearing play, there may be some wheel bearing float also. I suggest that
1/2" at the wheel rim can be removed by removing some of the shims from between
the swivel arm and the housing to reduce the clearance in the lower taper
rollewr bearings.

 Terri Ann   Do not put anti sieze grease on the taper of the track rod ends,
only on the threads that screw into the track rod. Greasing the taper will
create difficulty in tightening the nut to lock the tapers together. In addition
the taper is already copper plated.
  The drive flange screws are 3/8 " BS fine, you are better off with High
tensile bolts, not hardened. Hardened bolts are more likely to shear than High
tensile types.

 Mike Slade  Hardy Spicer are an Original Equipment supplier of Hookes joints
for drive shafts, you need have no worries about their suitability for your
requirements.

  David Brown.  Craddocks list a bulkhead number plate for ser 2 and 3.

   Regards   Bill Leacock, Limey in exile.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Jun 1995 23:17:38 -0400 (EDT)
From: Steven M Denis  <denis@oswego.Oswego.EDU>
Subject: Re: Hot in there you bet!

Ok the skirted thermostat can be had from any of the US suppliers Rovers 
North  for one....
The temperature gauge reads the water temperature at the outlet to the 
radiator..the whole point is that the the thermostat opens like it 
should...but some (most?) of the water peals off and returns to the 
block..it is the rear cylinder that suffers the most..I have several head 
here with burnt #4 valves and the flat thermostat still installed..I 
first noticed this on my diesel..the temperature pickup point is on the 
rear of the head on these...the top radiator hose got warm at 150ish but 
the temperature rose to 230 F on the gauge...tried seveal new units than 
installed a skirted type... Presto!....do what you want folks....*Everyone* 
knows more than I.......I really can't care if everyones valves except my 
own burn to a crisp....Really don't care if *my* valves burn to a crisp 
actually........hell, just drain the water and go air cooled..50 
god-zillon VW's can't be wrong!!!!! 
(Dixon..do you have a early 2,25 with the deep thermostat housing perchance?)

steve......

"HEY! NICE JEEP,MISTER!"..........."Look,Kid,it's a ..Oh never mind..."

"NOTAJEEP"-1967 109 Station Wagon          Steven M. Denis
                                           PO Box 296
                                           Fulton, New York USA 
                                                      13069

------------------------------

Subject: Re: Diesel engines 2 1/4, 2 1/2 turbo
From: paul@frcs.alt.za (Paul Nash)
Date: Sat, 10 Jun 1995 10:13:00 +1000

After rebuilding my 2 1/4 diesel TWICE, plus purchasing every manual
I could find (factory, Haynes, Brooklands, etc) and pestering every
Land-Rover or diesel expert within a 100 mile radius:

> Question is : There is a groove around the skirt of the pistons 
> (at the bottom), into which a bottom scraper / oil control
> ring would fit perfectly.  Should we or should we not fit a 
> ring in it?

No.  This is for an _extra_ ring when the engine wears.  You start
out with the normal three compression + one oil scraper at the top.
When the exhaust starts getting oily (white smoke), you open the
engine & pop in the second oil scraper (plus replace the top rings
at the same time).  At least, that's the theory :-).

> >-Can somebody tell me anything about the TD (not the TDi) engine?
> derivative of the normally aspirated 2.5 diesel, which was basically a 
> derivative of the old 2.25 diesel, which was basically a derivative of the 
> ring in it?

Let me qualify what I have to say right now:  I do not own a 2 1/2 turbo,
and so this is all hearsay (from a couple of owners, the agents, a few
mechanics)

These have a very bad reputation in South Africa, as they don't rev any
higher than a 2 1/4, although you can maintain the 90km/hr top speed 
up steeper hills, and they warp their heads.  Maybe we just got a dud
batch, or the importers did something wrong with the turbo unit, but
the average life of a South African 2 1/2 turbo engine is about 50,000km
before needing a rebuild. The South African army had all their 2 1/2 turbo
engines replaced with TDi units, and AAD (the pre-BMW importers) were
selling lots of refurbished 2 1/2 turbo engines very cheap at one stage.

With more gentle treatment, they may well last a whole lot longer, and
there may be a newer head design that keeps them a bit cooler.  However,
hard hot driving is probably not a good thing.  YMMV!

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Jun 1995 21:20:16 -0700
From: growl@hsmpk14a-101.Eng.Sun.COM (William L. Grouell)
Subject: Re: Hot in there you bet!

 
> Ok the skirted thermostat can be had from any of the US suppliers Rovers 
> North  for one....
> The temperature gauge reads the water temperature at the outlet to the 
> radiator..the whole point is that the the thermostat ope... blah blah

  I understand how it works and why. There are NONE! It may be in the
catalog but they are NLS. Unless they *all* lied to me. Maybe you can order
for me??? 
  You can put a put a restiction in the by-pass. I have a thin brass plate
with three ~3/8" holes in it that I can put in the by-pass, where it has
two bolts to the thermostat housing. I had it in before I found a skirted
thermostat about 8 years ago. When that one died a month ago I tried to find
a replacement, there ain't any. I don't have the resticter plate in either,
yet. I'm running at 160F, solid.
 Have you ever heard the story about the little old lady who went to the
ice cream store and asked for chocolate? There wasn't any. The nice ice cream
man listed off all the other 36 flavors. She asked for chocolate again. They
went through the same routine several times. The nice ice cream man then
asked the little old lady if she could spell the "straw" in strawberry. She
did. Then he asked if could spell the "van" in vanilla. She did. The nice
ice cream man then asked her to spell the "fuck" in chocolate. She said,
quite indignant, "young man! there is no "fuck" in chocolate." "Yes", he said
"that's what I've been trying to tell you!"

R, bg

------------------------------

Subject: Rovers in _Congo_
Date: Fri, 09 Jun 1995 23:42:41 -0700
From: Benjamin Allan Smith <bens@archimedes.vislab.navy.mil>

	So I just got back from seeing _Congo_ and there were 5 or so
scenes that included Land Rovers.   Let's see if I can remember all of them.

	Opening scenes are of 3 vehicles traveling in Africa.  Most of the
shots are at long range with the vehicles driving down roads and arriving in
a town.  The lead was not a Rover, but the rear two were.  Truck #2 was
a 110 with, I think, a pickup cab and partial softtop.  The 110 may have
been a 5 door with the rear doors cut in half, but I'm not sure.  Truck #3
was a 110 PickUp.  I think these were tan in color.

	Scene at an airport in Africa, one of the characters arrives in 
a blue SIII 109 hardtop 5 door.

	Scene at border crossing, green Series II or III 109 with full canvas 
top is behind the characters' truck. 

	I recall two other scenes with Land Rovers (Series II or III 109s I 
think):  one scene with a green 109 with canvas top and other scene with a blue
109.  

	I assume that someone else will post correcting my faulty memory (and
be smart enough to bring pen and paper, and be more ready than I was).

	Overall, I enjoyed the movies immensely.

-Benjamin Smith
----------------
 Science Applications Internation Corporation
 Naval Air Warfare Center, Weapons Division, China Lake
 bens@archimedes.vislab.navy.mil
 1972 Land Rover Series III 88

------------------------------

  END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST 
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