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The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

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Date: 08 Jun 95 03:52:26 EDT
From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com>
Subject: Re: Tyres for a 109

> the tread?

...er, yes. Not myself, actually, but a friend in a 110 hardtop w/ Rangemaster
lookalike remoulds, in Libya. Ok, it was *hot*, and the car was loaded...
the rear right tyre simply exploded, was blown clean off the rim - the rim
was also ruined in the incident, plus minor damage to the wheelarch.
Never used remoulds myself, and not likely to...

Stefan
<Stefan R. Jacob, 100043.2400@CompuServe.com>

------------------------------

Date: 08 Jun 95 03:54:56 EDT
From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com>
Subject: Re: Frozen brake calipers

>This friend - Andy - claims that it is my romps through mud and high water
>that is causing the frozen calipers on my '89 RR.  I argue that it seems
>kind of strange that a car designed specifically for that should die after

I'm afraid I must confirm that, leaving mud & gravel caked around the
calipers after mud bogging can and will, eventually, cause the calipers
to freeze - had a hair-raising experience to this effect myself not long
ago (was posted on the digest) where the brake pads where literally burnt
out and the brake disc was glowing. It's strongly advisable to clean the
calipers very thoroughly after playing in the mud, to the extent of taking
off each wheel individually and going over them with a power washer.

Something else can cause caliper-freeze: The internal push rod of the servo
brake which transmits the vacuum-assisted brake action from the vacuum unit
into the master brake cylinder can 'hang' or seize, temporarily, in the
rubber gromet/seal through which it passes. As a consequence the rod doesn't
recede completely, the vacuum isn't released, and you continue having
braking action on the master cyl. even after having released the brake pedal.
The remedy is simple (no need to drain the brake system): Loosen the master
cylinder from the servo unit (taking care not to break any brake pipes!),
pull it back from the unit and carefully pull out the protuding rod (don't
drop it into the servo unit :-O ). Remove the rubber&plastic gromet/seal
(it's an assembly of rubber seal, plastic shim and metal retaining plate -
take note of how it is assembled), clean everything, and apply Girling paste
(this blue slimy gook) liberally - don't use grease or oil !! If you find
the rod to be corroded or the rubber seal torn or chaffed, replace them.
Reassemble, and preferably apply some sealing compound thinly to the master
cylinder flange prior to bolting it to the servo unit to prevent further
ingress of water/dust/oil - this is the main cause in the first place for
the deterioration of the rod/seal.

Finally, there is an overhaul set for the calipers; I'm not sure though
whether it also contains new pistons, you might have to get those seperately
if they look suspicious. This would be *much* cheaper than getting new
calipers. Needless to say, working on the brakes of such a fast and heavy
vehicle is a touchy job - leave it to a workshop unless you know exactly
what you're doing...

Stefan
<Stefan R. Jacob, 100043.2400@CompuServe.com>

------------------------------

From: Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: Swivel pin rebuild -- advice?
Date: Thu, 8 Jun 95 9:21:07 BST

John,

Its not a job you want to do if it can be avoided!
With the amount of play you mention,it doesnt sound
too bad,and probably only needs adjustment,ie the
removal of a shim or two under the top swivel pin.
Other folks may disagree,but the way I do it is to
jack the thing up,remove the wheel,sit on an
upturned bucket and play with the shim pack,removing/
replacing,until there is *just* and only *just* the
suggestion of movement.Too tight,and you've got heavy
steering,too loose and you're back where you started.
Backwoods engineering it may be,but work it does,and
it saves all the aggro of bashing out the track rod
ends and fiddling with a spring balance to get the
resistance theoretically right.
Personally,I *would* fit gaiters if my swivel balls
didnt resemble the surface of the moon,and fill 'em
with grease,too,but the ones I've seen over here dont
require the removal of the axle end to fit.

Cheers
Mike Rooth

------------------------------

From: Spenny@aol.com
Date: Thu, 8 Jun 1995 06:48:11 -0400
Subject: Re: Hot in here /Heater valve SII

cs@crl.com wrote:
   Exactly!  He stops the diversion or circulation of the coolant to the
   heating system in the summer (Turn Clock-Wise in March), 

I understand that part, (i'm not tailor, you know <g>)
what i dont understand is doesn't that stop the circulation of 
coolant throught the engine?
or does the engine have a complete coolant circuit of its own?

spenny

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Jun 1995 13:15:26 +0200
From: dbeers@eu.wang.com (David Beers)
Subject: Re: Some Engine Questions

>-Can somebody tell me anything about the TD (not the TDi) engine?
>This seems to have been fitted to earlier Defenders before the TDi
>came. Since yet I coudn't get any information about this.

The 90 Diesel Turbo engine (the official factory name) was fitted to the 
coil-sprung Land Rovers starting from 1986 (?)  and was basically a 
derivative of the normally aspirated 2.5 diesel, which was basically a 
derivative of the old 2.25 diesel, which was basically a derivative of the 
2.0 diesel from the original Series I!  In order to accomodate the turbo, 
the engine block was modified for increased oil flow to handle the higher 
temperatures caused by the turbo, and completely new pistons/rings were 
developed.  The turbo is a Garrett T2.  The engine produces 85 horsepower, 
which makes it a bit better on the road, although it just as noisy as usual. 
 I have 1989 90 with the Turbo Diesel (I prefer to call it that) and it 
suits my style of driving.  I can cruise on the motorway at 100-110 km/h 
with plenty of power in reserve for overtaking trucks and such.  If you go 
faster than that that, the engine noise gets unbearable, and the fuel 
consumption goes up.  I am currently using 10-11 L/100 km with my style of 
driving.

Land Rover stopped producing this engine in 1990, and came out with the TDi 
engine in 1991, which is when the name Defender was also added to the 
vehicles.  The previous models were known simply as Land Rover 90, 110, and 
127.  The TDi is not a derivative of the Diesel Turbo, but rather a totally 
new engine that was originally developed for the Discovery.

-David

1989 Land Rover 90 TD

------------------------------

Date: 08 Jun 95 09:25:14 EDT
From: Pierce Reid <70004.4011@compuserve.com>
Subject: Hot in here /Heater valve SII

I installed the whole heater in my IIa last fall.  The tap is easy to install --
just remove the bolt at the back of the block and screw it down on a crush
washer.  If there is a fitting there already (ie a thermostatically controlled
valve) you could probably install the tap at the front of th engine (thread is
the same) and achieve the same thing by cutting off the flow of water through
the heater.

Cheers, 

R. P. Reid

------------------------------

Date: 08 Jun 95 09:25:13 EDT
From: Pierce Reid <70004.4011@compuserve.com>
Subject:  Engine rebuilds: Any gotchas?

Alan:

Some things to do... Take the engine to a machine shop (NAPA does this if you
are in the U.S.) and have the engine hot tanked to remove all the old paint and
*clean out the oil and coolant passages!*  A colleague of mine rebuilt his
Bentley Mk VI engine a few years ago only to find passages blocked by mice
nests.  Seized the rear 2 cylinders.  Damn expensive on a Bentley.

Paint the engine block when it's all clean.  Cummins Diesel green is a really
close match to the original LR green.  Paint the inside of the timing chain case
as well, but degrease it well first, so no paint chips come off later in life.

If you can afford it or really want to have a new engine... have it bored over.
Probably it has never been bored, so have it bored .010 over.  Whether you have
it rebored or not, hone the cylinders and always use new rings.

Use lots (really lots) of grease and oil during the reassembly.  

Plastigauge works great when setting the bearings.

Feel free to contact me as you get into it... I have rebuilt several 2.25's and
talked a couple of people through steps on the phone.

Cheers, 

R. P. Reid

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Jun 1995 09:55:32 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Steven Swiger (LIS)" <swiger@luna.cas.usf.edu>
Subject: digest etc.

Thank you to all who replied regarding the mailing problem.  I was on the 
digest for a brief while, and I did not enjoy it at all because I could 
not save specific messages into my folder.

The point I was trying to make is that 7 sequential messages could just 
as easily be put in one slightly longer message before being mailed to 
the list.  That's all.....

BTW, Does anyone have the soft top frame(only) to cover just the cab?  
Would you like to part with it?
Thnx
steve & da Moose
73 III 88 "Moose" (under construction)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Jun 1995 07:38:14 -0700
From: gpool@pacific.pacific.net (Granville B. Pool)
Subject: 9.50s on LR 15" rims

David Brown asks: "Ever put 34-9.50-15 tires on a Land Rover?"

>Hello all, I need tires on a '71 IIa 88, and am looking at using either
>BFG 33x9.50x15 MT or Super Swamper 34x9.50x15.
>Has anyone ever installed the "34's" (Super swamper)?

I'm currently running Super Swampers TSLs on my '73 88 but they are
29x8.50x15s and they are remarkable in mud.  I was recently out on a muddy
Land-Rover run where most of the other Land-Rovers were slipping and sliding
around.  Mine acted like it was on pavement--no drama.  I just wish they
were taller (they were on this Land-Rover when I got it; I would have bought
taller ones).  Kinda rough riding on the road.  Noisy too but not that bad;
not nearly as noisy as SATs (which I've also run and like the Super Swampers
better).

>Will the 9.50's fit on standard Rover rims?

Yes, one of my other Land-Rovers has 30x9.50R15s on it and they fit fine.

As to the tall ones, they will work too.  I've never seen the 34x9.50 Super
Swampers on a Land-Rover but have seen two or three sets of the 33.9.50 BFG
MTs on Land-Rovers and talked to one of the owners (Seattle, WA) and he was
very happy with them.  

My ideal would be to get the 34x9.50 Super Swampers in radial or better yet
(maybe) 7.50x16 Super Swampers in Radial.  No such so far but I have noticed
that there is a gradually increasing selection of radial sizes in the Super
Swamper (including 33x10.50R15).

>Anyone know of any sources for LR wheels? They're a "5 on 6.5 inch" rim
>size, and nobody that I have called yet has anything in this size. I am
>in the US, but may have to order them from the UK if not available on
>this side of the pond.

No, the LR wheels are available in the U.S.  If you are talking about the
15" wheels, they are 6.0" wide.  The 16s are available in 5" (for 88s and
6.00x16 or 6.50x16 tires) and 5.5" (for 109s and 7.50x16 tires) from most
any of the LR parts houses (RN, AB, BP, and DAP) but also in 6.5x16 (from LR
dealers and RN). The 6.5" were used on the US model D110 and are also used
on D130s.  Cost over $100 each from RN (I forgot the exact price).  There
are also steel wheels available for the D90 and some actually do come with
them.  These are the same as used on the Disco as standard in England (or at
least used to be), have five small oval slots, and are (I believe) 7" wide.
Some dealers have been taking off these wheels on D90s that come in with
them to put on alloys, then sell off the steel take-offs as used.  One in
the SF Bay Area was selling them for $85 each.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 08 Jun 95 07:53:28 MST
From: DEBROWN@SRP.GOV
Subject: Re: Ever put 34-9.50-15 tires on a Land Rover?

FROM:  David Brown                           Internet: debrown@srp.gov
       Computer Graphics Specialist * Mapping Services & Engr Graphics
       PAB219 (602)236-3544 -  Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486
SUBJECT: Re: Ever put 34-9.50-15 tires on a Land Rover?

>>Hello all, I need tires on a '71 IIa 88, and am looking at using
>>either BFG 33x9.50x15 MT or Super Swamper 34x9.50x15.

>>Has anyone ever installed the "34's" (Super swamper)?

>I've seen a Sr II 88 with 33" tires. It has one-ton spring shackles (to
>lift the body a little) and the front fenders were still cut out to
>accomodate the tires. Shudder! You might check with the owner to see
>about his experiences. He is Lawrence, Manager of British Pacific in
>Burbank, CA. (a very nice L-R parts outlet.)

THANK YOU JOHN!!!

I've been in contact with Lawrence in regards to the placard for the
109, and have just received several other parts that I ordered from
them. Seems like a really nice person from the phone contact that I've
had... I'll definitely call him (800 number ;) ) after 10:00 when he
gets in. Maybe a 1-2" lift would be required? Don't really want to chop
it all up. It's already dinged up, no major dents, just one series of
ripples and dimples over the entire vehicle! ;) (PO had used it for a
tree trimming service, and screwed on steel plates to all 3 doors so he
could attach the magnetic signs he used! Sheesh! Some people's kids!!!)
And even though it's just going to be a "desert trasher" (while treading
lightly) I still want it to retain the LR charm in appearance. After
all... It *is* a Land-Rover, and therefore has Dignity!

As for white-spoke wheels, Only ones I've been able to locate are from
"Famous Four" in the UK at 33.49L (Pounds) each. (Approx $52.50 US) for
8x15's. This price includes VAT which would likely be deducted, but
does not include shipping to the US. Has anyone had experience ordering
from these people? (Or any others in the UK??)

Well, I've rambled on long enough... Thanks for the "ear"!

Dave (envious of the supply of parts in the UK) Brown,

#=======#                Never doubt that a small group of individuals
|__|__|__\___            can change the world... indeed, it's the only
| _|  |   |_ |}          thing that ever has.
"(_)""""""(_)"                                          -Margaret Mead

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Jun 1995 08:53:33 -0700
From: growl@hsmpk14a-101.Eng.Sun.COM (William L. Grouell)
Subject: Re: Hot in here /Heater valve SII

> Bill Wrote:
>  Mine is like that, only *not* cable controled. You open the hood and turn
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
> Doesnt the valve stop the circulation of the heating system?
> I dont understand? 

  Any auto parts store will sell you a valve that you can insert into
the 5/8" rubber heater hose. Just cut the hose at any convienent spot, slide
the hose over the valve, hose clamp, done. It just stops the hot water from 
circulating through the heater core. The heater is part of the by-pass
circuit, so, the engine temperture is not affected. You just must open the
bonnet to turn the water to the heater on or off. My Kodiac has a three speed
fan and a flap on the external air intake, with which to control air through
the heater, so a water volume control is unimportant for fine tuning the
internal air temp. It's open in winter and closed in summer.

R, bg

------------------------------

From: Alan Richer <Alan_Richer.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date:  8 Jun 95 11:46:48 EDT
Subject: Radials on a Rover? How BIG?

I've seen a lot of posts come and go recently (past few months) on the eternal 
question
of tires.

I'm not going to reopen the debate about tube vs. tubeless or any of that other 
deep thought,
but one thing I've gotten conflicting messages on is the actual factor of tire 
size.

Churchill is at present shod in a disgusting set of 7.50 x 16 bias-ply junk 
tires. Can you say
tire roar over 10MPH? Knew you could...<grin> What I was told by DAP was to 
avoid anything
over a 205 75 R 16 tire with a 109 with overdrive as it puts too much of a 
strain on the Fairey.

However, i hear of several folks (including Churchill's PO - he stuck me with 
the junk tires and
kept the good ones) running 235 75 R16s with no problem.

Who's right?

Let me address one caveat: These tires are going to end up being aggressive 
street tires -
I will not be doing much off-road, at least not for the next year or so. I have 
a spare set of 16"
wheels, and those may later get a good set of off-roads as finances permit.

     Expiring minds want to know, 

      Yours, Alan

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 08 Jun 1995 12:18:54 -0400
From: maloney@wings.attmail.com (maloney)
Subject: V-8 Auto 88 For Sale

A friend asked me to post this:

---------------------------------------

1964 88 w/NOS 215 V-8 Auto on new heavy duty frame.  Completely rebuilt.  
Fresh paint, new exhaust, full 4WD & hubs.  Was building as my serious off 
road toy but switched to a coil sprung chassis.  Drive away as is for $7500.  
finished $10,000.

Also has 3 "Super built" versions of the Buick-Olds (Rover) alumium V-8.
215 - $1500
245 - $2500
266 - $3500

Contact John Deneke in Glen Rock, NJ USA  Ph: 201-445-0361

Also, he is looking to buy rear 5" sills for a 109 PU measuring 26 3/4" at the 
top.

---------------------------------------------

>From what I can see of the "as is" condition - The radiator has been relocated 
further forward and a cosmetic grill needs to be fabricated (with a new hood 
I think), I think it needs the interior done, but all panels were painted off 
the vehicle, and the top needs to be put on.  

Have fun.

Bill

maloney@wings.attmail.com

------------------------------

From: BobandSueB@aol.com
Date: Thu, 8 Jun 1995 12:16:24 -0400
Subject: re hot in here/ heater valve

>> So I went to local auto parts and bought a  control valve for a few
dollars.
>> It's 5/8 straight through/ cable controlled and mounts anywhere you want
it
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
>> in the hose.
>>  Bob Bernard

> Mine is like that, only *not* cable controled. You open the hood and turn
>CCW in Nov. and Turn CW in March. No holes to drill.

R, bg

I didn't have to drill holes, the cable was already there from the stoopid
factory control valve.
Also the cable in mine doesn't go backwards at all, pull out and it heats,
push in and its off. By having the cable control inside, I can turn down the
heat when we don't need as much.

Bob 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Jun 1995 09:17:47 -0700
From: growl@hsmpk14a-101.Eng.Sun.COM (William L. Grouell)
Subject: Re: Swivel pin rebuild -- advice?

> Its not a job you want to do if it can be avoided!
> With the amount of play you mention,it doesnt sound
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> Cheers
> Mike Rooth

  Huh? I deleted but wasn't it 1/2" of play at the top of the tire? Sounds
like a case for not driving it again until it's fixed. Like real dangerous.

R, bg 

------------------------------

From: Carrob1@aol.com
Date: Thu, 8 Jun 1995 12:29:48 -0400
Subject: Re: #2(2) The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

Ken,

>From firsthand experience (hauling vehicles) I can tell you that Land Rover
does not use frame holes for transportation purposes, and expressly instructs
carriers to use the exitsting tiedown rings bolted to the frame.

If the vehicle was ever winched or towed by a local towing service, I'll
betcha that's where the damage came from.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Jun 95 09:57:26 -0700
From: "TeriAnn Wakeman"  <twakeman@apple.com>
Subject: Re: Swivel pin rebuild -- advice?

In message <199506080451.XAA15457@butler.uk.stratus.com> John Y. Liu writes:
> To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net
> Whilst rotating tires, I noticed that my Sr IIA 109 has about  1/2" of play 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 17 lines)]
> anyone have favorable or unfavorable comments about the idea of adding 
> gaiters while I am at it?
> Thanks.

My condolences.

I have just put my rebuilt swivel assemblies back on the car.  The factory 
manual is poor about the process so the haynes manual will probably be worse.  I
ended up having Scotty rebuild the swivel pins for me (chicken way out but I 
know it was done right).

Purchase a pin rebuild kit.  It comes with everything you need for a swivel pin 
rebuild and costs a LOT less than purchasing the parts individually.

Tricky?  the new pins may not proberly fit the new Raco bush and might need to 
be lapped in, but you don't eant it too lose.  The raco bush can be a pain to 
install & if you bugger it up you will need to get a new one.  If there are ANY 
shims on the underside pin.  carefully do not lose them & put them back on the 
underside.  This would have been the factory alining the opening of the housing 
with the swivel ball.  You will need to make a few trial arremblies with 
different shim packs to get the correct draw on the scale (You will need to 
purchase a pull spring scale, 0-20 pounds is about right).  You want to keep the
swivel and housing matched and be careful you don't accidently put the bushiing 
& bearing on the wrong ends when reassembling  There is a top and a bottom to 
the swivels.

Don't forget pitted balls make for oil leaks.

manual documentation on the 109's front brakes are the pits.  Make a drawing of 
the connections on the back side of the back plate  if you decide to do the 
brakes too.  The front brake adjuster on each of the mirrored back plates sits 
above the center of the axle.  The cross brake line goes to the front.  The 
bleeded is on the bottom along the same axis as the axle, the rubber hose goes 
to the slanted opening on the top wheel cylinder.  You can use a smaal diameter 
cutter on a high speed tool to make the scallaps on the brake asduster a little 
deeper.  Its way easier than replacing the whole subassembly if yours are worn.

Axle breathers can be easily cleaned.  the top pin is held in by friction.  You 
can take a pair of pliers, pull off the top pin, remove the bell shaped housing 
and get at the ball (don't lose it).  A quik slosh in solvent and you reassemble
it.  Before deciding to go with the newer raised breathers I was thinking of 
threading the upper part of the breather and replacing the pin with a screw to 
facilitate quick cleaning of the breather.

The fun part is that many of the bolts are wentworth.  If you need to remove the
svivel balls, a 15 mm open wrench is close enough in size that it can be 
hammered on to the bolts holding the ball to the axle.  I replaced them with new
grade 8 SAE fine bolts.

You might want to pick up a special wrench that is almost like a box wrench but 
has a narrow opening for a steel hydrolic line,  Yours will probably be tight 
and you do not want to bugger up the connectors.  If you do decide to replace a 
steel brake line you can ether purchase a complete one from one of the LR mail 
houses or purchase new ends from Rovers North and have a local shop make them 
up.  I opted for this since I have gone to duel power brakes on the 109.  You 
should be able to find the wrench at your local auto parts store.

The hydrolic lines can ba a pain to get back on,  It usually is easier if you 
run the male ends through a die.  Also if you have the flex hydrolic lines off, 
you might consider new copper washers and a new nut & lock washer at the other 
side.

Scotty is currently dead set against gaiters.  They retain moisture even though 
the slit is facing down.  Almost every swivel he as rebuilt from a car with 
gaiters were pitted and needed new balls.  He says that they make more sense in 
a LR that lives in the desert that almost never sees moisture.  He also says the
best way to treat the balls is to wash them off after a run.

What else should your renew while at it?  Haw!  As a long time sufferer of 
shipfitters disease here is what I am doing:
1. new front wheel bearings & seals (mine were getting tired).
2. raised axle breathers ( my front one has stripped threads)
3. replaced front axle oil
4. New wheel brake cylinders all the way around
5. New brake shoes in front
6. repainted front brake back plates
7. new rubber brake hoses all the way around
8. New steel brake lines throughout the car (I have already had pin hole rust 
throughs and the front right line looked to be in poor condition
9. Since Hammertone takes 6 weeks to fully cure and I expect to spend a couple 
of weeks in Europe on business before the job was done, I took the oppertunity 
to put new silver hamertone paint on the air cleaner, valve cover breather and 
oil filler breather.
10.  I disconnected the lower ends of the front shocks and replaced badly worn 
lower mounting bushings.  The inner hole was greatly enlarged.  I also varified 
that the front shocks were in good condition.
11. replaced 'O' rings in the locking hubs.

Of course, since you will need to disconnect the front tierod ends connecting 
the drop arms, you will want to check their condition and renew them as 
necessary

Doing  swivel pin rebuild can lead to all kinds of fun :^(  after the job is 
completed that is.

TeriAnn Wakeman              .sig closed for remodeling
twakeman@apple.com         
              
                         
                       

------------------------------

From: ScottFugate_Group4t@ctdvns1.ctd.ornl.gov
Date: Thu, 8 Jun 95 13:00:41 EDT
Subject: 89 RR Gremlins

Gang,

I have enjoyed the recent thread concerning various problems with '89 RRs.  
Never liking to be left out, I thought I would chime in with one of my own...

The problem is my tachometer and fuel gauge work intermittently.  The failures 
are always simultaneous.  The non-functioning periods are solely dependent on 
the temperature inside the vehicle.  After the thing is parked and the ambient 
temp reaches 80 degrees F or so (every afternoon from May to October in 
Tennessee), the needles just lay there.  After I run the AC for 20 minutes or 
so and get things good and cooled off, boing!, needles shoot into the proper 
positions and everything's fine.  Things are great on the way into work in the 
morning, but I am never sure how much gas I have until I get almost home in 
the evening.

My Haynes Manual wiring diagram shows that the instruments have in common the 
"multi purpose device" or something like that.  Sounds like some diode or chip 
or something in there would prefer a cooler climate.  I am decidedly 
electronically challenged.  Is there any way to troubleshoot and repair this 
device?  Where is it located? What does it look like?  I am loathe to just 
chuck the thing and replace it without a fight.  As with any "black box", I am 
sure it is very expensive.  Anybody happen to know how much? (UK and US)  
Could there be another explanation for the cause of this malady? (bad 
connection or something?)  

Ah, the delight of owning a luxury automobile!

Thanks in advance!

Scott Fugate	Knoxville, TN
70 IIA 88		615-523-5136 (h)
89 RR		615-435-3193 (o)
		615-435-3193 (f)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Jun 95 10:20:41 -0700
From: "TeriAnn Wakeman"  <twakeman@apple.com>
Subject: Re: Radials on a Rover? How BIG?

Alan,
If I ever stop spending money on such things a swivel pin rebuild and replacing 
all the brake lines I'll be purchasing a set of new tyres to put on my new 16 
inch rims, to replace my  bent white 15X7 spokers that replaced the stock narrow
16 inch wheels on my 109.

I told the tyre people I wanted BF Goodrich mud terrains the same height and 
width as my current 15 inch tyres.  I was very impressed at how the mud terrains
worked on spot, a local D90.  After some measuring the tyre person produced a 
245/75-16 tyre and compaired it with my current tyres.  Same height & width as 
the old ones.  So I'm not versed on what the sizes mean but the size I currently
have on (and will want to sell as they have most of their thread left) fit well 
on a 109.

TeriAnn Wakeman              .sig closed for remodeling
twakeman@apple.com         
              
                         
                       

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Jun 95 10:31:05 -0700
From: "TeriAnn Wakeman"  <twakeman@apple.com>
Subject: Re: Swivel pin rebuild -- advice?

In message <199506081618.LAA16002@butler.uk.stratus.com> William L. Grouell 
writes:

 
>   Huh? I deleted but wasn't it 1/2" of play at the top of the tire? Sounds
> like a case for not driving it again until it's fixed. Like real dangerous.

Mine had about 1/2 inch freeplay on the left side when I decided to go ahead 
with the rebuild.  I had been putting it off for years & staying away from long 
off road runs because of the wear.  On mine the upper pins were well worn, the 
ralco bushings were somewhat elongated.  The lower bearing races had 
indintations where the rollers from the bearings punded into them.  The inside 
of the lower bearings were leaving a brass shine on the lower pins where they 
were wearing together.

But I agree it is nice to have it done or have the help of someone who as done 
it correctly before.  You should disconnect the tie rods from the axle steering 
arms and use a spring to set  up the shims 

TeriAnn Wakeman              .sig closed for remodeling
twakeman@apple.com         
              
                         
                       

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Jun 95 11:27:07 PDT
From: brabyn@skivs.ski.org (John Brabyn)
Subject: Re:  89 RR Gremlins

Scott -- yes it is good to see a bit of RR technical traffic on the old list.

Regarding your tach and gauge problem, the two things indeed share the 
"multifunction unit", which is indeed located INSIDE the car -- on the
back of the instrument binnacle. I recently removed mine to see what
was going on with a similar weird problem I'm having with the charge
light coming on and the tach not working.

The multifunction unit, among other things, provides a regulated voltage
to the tach and gauges. It can be got at by removing the plastic cover
from the instrument binnacle (lift the front-facing edge and pull the cover 
forward toward the front of the vehicle). The multifunction unit is on
the left hand side at the top, held on with 2 screws that can at a pinch 
be removed without taking anything else apart (the official method is to
remove the whole instrument binnacle from the dash, but I got mine off
without that). The unit is a little circuit board shrouded by a metal
cover. The voltage regulator chip would be easy to replace (only 3 legs)
but that might not be the problem if your temp gauge is working normally.
You could try at first just cleaning the connections on the edge of the 
circuit board; after that some pondering of the circuitry would unfortunately
be required to find the cause. The factory manual doesn't give a proper circuit diagram for this unit
diagram for the unit, and I don't know how much a new one is.

Hope this is some help

Cheers

John Brabyn
89 RR

------------------------------

From: Andrew Grafton <A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk>
Subject: Piston rings on 2286 diesels
Date: Thu, 8 Jun 95 16:35:01 BST

I can cope with engines going wrong and making them right again,
but I *really* hate it when opinions clash.  So here I am asking
for more opinions or specific experience...

Engine in question is a 2286 diesel 5 bearing, an early one (no.
459 of the 5 bearing series).  It suffered ring failure and has 
a badly scored bore so it is now being rebored 40 thou oversize
prior to fitting o/size pistons..

In the past the engine has had a complete new set of pistons once
and one new (odd) one fitted since.  The pistons are all of the
ZAB/L dimensions and bores mike up indicating no previous reboring.
Head is in mint condition despite passing 2" of ring thro' the
no.4 exhaust valve.

Question is : There is a groove around the skirt of the pistons 
(at the bottom), into which a bottom scraper / oil control
ring would fit perfectly.  Should we or should we not fit a 
ring in it?

The reason why I wonder is that one of the old pistons doesn't have 
one, but the other 3 do.  I made enquiries and currently have 
2 votes for "fit it" and 2 votes for "leave it off". 
The best reason I've had so far is that the manual mentioned below 
shows no ring fitted.

Information so far (that I know for certain) - the Series IIA 
manuals show no ring fitted to this groove, just the groove.

Our 5 bearing engine is somewhat different to that 3 bearing
engine, but does this mean I should fit the rings or not?
I have no accurate cross-sectional drawings for the 5-bearing.

The new pistons come with a scraper-type ring fitted there.

Any advice welcomed.  Also, if anyone knows what the groove is for
if it isn't a ring groove, let me know!  Is this where the mythical
'oil control rings' fit [I thought they were a set of slightly o'size
rings...]?
  
Bye for now, waiting with baited breath,

Andy

------------------------------

From: "Bryan Costales" <costales@ICSI.Berkeley.EDU>
Date: Thu, 8 Jun 1995 11:55:23 -0700
Subject: FS: Land Rover 1974 Series III, 88" in Berkeley, CA

Yes, my car is up for sale once again. Here is the information:

For Sale:	1973 Series III Land Rover
		88" wheel base, 3 door, red body with white top
		Presently located in Berkeley, California.

Status:		Lubed and tuned, runs well. 

Features:	Full size, galvanized rack w/stainless steel hardware.
		2-barrel Weber carbruator with cable linkage.
		Stainless steel exhaust (with standard header).
		Spin-on oil filter adapter.
		Fully converted to synthetic oil (sump, gears and diff).
		70 alternator, and electronic ignition.
		CB, cassette deck, AM/FM radio, and remote burglar alarm.
		Stellite valves so it will run on unleaded.
		Superwinch overdrive.
		Very good 6/4 15" tires.
		IIA grill provides 4 headlamps (all work).
		Sound proof foam under hood an floor mats (runs quieter).
		Floor mats in front, "wrap around" carpeting in back.
		Built-in, lockable boxes provide vast internal storage.
		Shop manual, and lots of spare parts (axels, gaskets, etc).

History:	I am the second owner. I still have all the maintanance papers
		and documents from the original owner. The head was recently
		rebuilt. Has good compression and oil pressure.

Why:		I am selling because I bought a new Land Rover Discovery.

How Much:	$7,500 is the current asking price. Make an offer!

You may contact me via:

		e-mail:	bcx@icsi.berkeley.edu
		phone:  (510) 548-3115 home
		fax:    (510) 644-4471 home

-- 
Bryan Costales -- Systems Manager, International Computer Science Institute
Internet: bcx@icsi.berkeley.edu                         BITNET: bcx@ucbicsi
37 degrees 52.193 minutes north by          122 degrees 16.277 minutes west 
URL:                                http://www.icsi.berkeley.edu/~costales/

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Jun 1995 20:20:15 +0059 (BST)
From: Charlie Wright <cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: Hot in here /Heater valve SII

On Thu, 8 Jun 1995, William L. Grouell wrote:

> > Bill Wrote:
snip
> > I dont understand? 
> circulating through the heater core. The heater is part of the by-pass
> circuit, so, the engine temperture is not affected. 

I'll qualify this: MUCH. It happens that opening the heater flow-control 
on my '74 BMW will provide _just_ enough cooling in summer to keep me 
'out of the red' in stop-and-go Houston traffic... but it makes the 
cockpit darn-near unbearable... sort of a second radiator

Charlie

------------------------------

From: Russell Burns <burns@cisco.com>
Subject: R-Rover air conditioning.
Date: Thu, 8 Jun 95 12:21:28 PDT

 A couple of weeks ago I noticed that my air conditioning was not
working. The compresser would cycle on for a short period. I first
thought it was low freon, but a few minutes work with a Volt meter
disproved this theory. I then thought it might be the temp sensor.
Getting at the Temp sensor turned out to be a big job. dismantling the
dash is a real pain. I finally found another black box for the air
conditioner. After cussing, and swearing about the great location,
and mounting accessability I did get at it, and found that there was
an actual reostat connected to the tempature selector for the heater.
In my case the plastic connection from the temp selector to the
reostat had broken, and was stuck in the warm position. 
The fix was to cut the wires to the reostat, and tie the connections
to the black box together. This keeps the air conditioner on
the coldest setting. Where I usally set it anyway.
Also while trying to replace the ac/heat control bezel, I managed to`
break 2 out ot of four dash lights. It seems that Lucus enginerring
drilled holes in the dash for the lights and wires to fit thru. If
they do not line up perfectly, you break off the tabs to the lights.
I averaged 1 light per attempt.

Russ Burns
D-90 getting the bumps banged out
R-Rover

                               

------------------------------

From: hugh@nezsdc.fujitsu.co.nz
Date: Fri, 9 Jun 1995 08:18:03 +1200
Subject: Re: Swivel pin rebuild -- advice?

>Whilst rotating tires, I noticed that my Sr IIA 109 has about  1/2" of play 
>in-and-out at the top of the front tires with the front end jacked up and 
>the brakes applied.
>I wonder if this suggests replacement of the swivel pin bushes? 

If there's only a small amount of play, and 1/2" at the top of the tyre
isn't so much, then you can probably get by with just removing some
shims from the swivel pin thingy(1).  This can be done without
dismantling the whole hub and swivel pin assembly.  But have a
container or drip trap underneath because you will certainly lose some
oil as the housing moves and breaks the oil seal, and carefully support
the hub if you do this so as not to damage the seal.

Cheers,
Hugh
SIIA 88", in bits...

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 08 Jun 1995 13:25:52 +0100
From: cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine)
Subject: Re: Hot in here /Heater valve SII

 Spencer KC Norcross <Spenny@aol.com> writes:

>>  Exactly!  He stops the diversion or circulation of the coolant to
>>  the heating system in the summer (Turn Clock-Wise in March), 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
>coolant throught the engine?
>or does the engine have a complete coolant circuit of its own?

 OK now son, sit down, let's go over whole thing one more time.
 Now boy, let me say this, the engine has its own water cooling
 system circulating ALL the time.  Are you with me so far boy?
 Now pay attention boy!  This is where it gets tricky.  In that
 cooling loop is a tap with a switch on it.  Got that boy?  Now
 this tap takes SOME of the hot water and diverts it to the
 heater.  And now get this boy, it returns to the cooling system
 at a later point.  That's all there's to it boy!  The whole thing
 works like a second parallel radiator --inside the car.  That's it!
 Nothing to it, simple as pie, huh boy?  Wakeup boy!  Weren't you
 listenin' ?  (Kids these days... ).  Wwoooaaaa boy!  That's more
 like it!  Now you got it...  (Kids, sheesh!)  :)

       valve    -> 
   <-    /----------# passenger
 #=======\          # heater
 #       [[[[]]]]   |
 #       [engine]   |  
 #       [[[[]]]]   |       
 #  ->         /----/
 #============/  <- return
radiator

-Michael "Foghorn" Carradine
 cs@crl.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Jun 95 13:41:07 PDT
From: mtalbot@InterServ.Com (Mark Talbot)
Subject: Re: Series III's on 16" wheels 

All, 

Just put new tyres and 16" Discovery steel wheels on "Beryl", What a 
difference !!!! Top speed has increased by at least 7 MPH, and with the O/D on 
that must be an extra 10MPH + 

I got a set of General AT's 265/75/16 only $88 a tyre, great value an they 
fill out the wheel arch with plenty of room to spare.  

Anyone thinking of going to 16" wheels, do it. 

Mark 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Jun 95 13:40:52 PDT
From: mtalbot@InterServ.Com (Mark Talbot)
Subject: Re: Range Rover temp sensors et al

All, 

My 88 Range Rover gone through two water temp sensors. Both have set off the 
EFI light. On the question of steering box pumps, mine leaks, it went last 
winter, sterring got real haevy then it was fine. I can live with checking the 
fluid every month. If it does leak, make sure you park it with the wheels 
facing forward and not turned !! I did this one day and drained the fluid out 
!!! I always carry a spare bottle of fluid. 

While on the subject of RR's. I just replaced the rear springs and shocks, 
rear radius arm bushes. What a difference. NO bouncing from the back, and it 
sits upright again. 
Now I have to do the front. 

Mark

 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 08 Jun 95 13:59:47 MST
From: DEBROWN@SRP.GOV
Subject: Spring lift for Land-Rover?

FROM:  David Brown                           Internet: debrown@srp.gov
       Computer Graphics Specialist * Mapping Services & Engr Graphics
       PAB219 (602)236-3544 -  Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486
SUBJECT: Spring lift for Land-Rover?
Does anyone know of a spring lift kit for a Land-Rover? I understand
that "Old man EMU" or ARB may have a lot of accessories for Land-Rovers,
does anyone have a phone number for them?? Anyone know of a 2-3" spring
lift for this? (New leaf springs with more arch.) Series IIa-88.

Also looking for "poly" bushings for an 88 and a 109.

Please advise!

Thanks,

#=======#                Never doubt that a small group of individuals
|__|__|__\___            can change the world... indeed, it's the only
| _|  |   |_ |}          thing that ever has.
"(_)""""""(_)"                                          -Margaret Mead

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Jun 95 14:24:20 PDT
From: brabyn@skivs.ski.org (John Brabyn)
Subject: Re: Range Rover temp sensors et al

Good to know you've had similar experiences! I have replaced the rear springs and shocks
and radius arm bushes too, and certainly found it beneficial. Actually I
used 2 LH springs to even up the level a bit more.

Cheers

John Brabyn
89RR

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Jun 1995 14:34:57 -0700
From: growl@hsmpk14a-101.Eng.Sun.COM (William L. Grouell)
Subject: Re: Hot in here /Heater valve SII

> I'll qualify this: MUCH. It happens that opening the heater flow-control 
> on my '74 BMW will provide _just_ enough cooling in summer to keep me 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
> cockpit darn-near unbearable... sort of a second radiator
> Charlie

  Yes, I have also turned on the heater in summer, like when pulling a trailer
over Donner Pass in August. That Kodiak is a real good radiator.

R, bg

Whew... it's getting hot in here

------------------------------

From: Sanna@aol.com
Date: Thu, 8 Jun 1995 17:47:07 -0400
Subject: RR A/C, Heater, & Fog Machine

I checked in a while back with the problem that my '89 RR was a regular fog
machine when it's wet out.  The answer I got back was the one that I
expected, that is, that the fresh/recirc flap was stuck in the recirc
position.  The solution:  Buy a $40 solenoid or just fix the flap into the
open position.  Favoring the latter (I never choose recirc), my question to
the group today is:  Since the A/C works on recirc only, will I sabotage my
A/C system (great A/C, by the way), if I just pin the flap in the fresh
position?  Waddya think?  Huh?

------------------------------

From: Craig Murray <craigp@ocs.cpsg.com.au>
Subject: Re: Spring lift for Land-Rover?
Date: Fri, 9 Jun 95 9:14:20 EST

> Does anyone know of a spring lift kit for a Land-Rover? I understand
> that "Old man EMU" or ARB may have a lot of accessories for Land-Rovers,
> does anyone have a phone number for them?? Anyone know of a 2-3" spring
> lift for this? (New leaf springs with more arch.) Series IIa-88.

The Australian army put extended spring shackle plates on their IIA Land 
Rovers to lift them off the ground, and it works quite well.
As for ARB and Old man EMU, I thought they concentrated on the Jap crap 
that needs all that kind of stuff to get close to the performance of a 
Rover, I was also told never to buy Australian springs, as they make 
the leaves too thick, so they give a really bad ride.  It should not be 
hard to make a set of shackle plates, but make sure they are strong, as  
some home made ones I have seen, twist and bend all over the place.  The  
Army ones have a bolt that goes through them to give added strength.

--
==============================================================================
Craig Murray                                    |       1955 Series 1 86"
LROC of Victoria Australia                      |       2.25 diesel 
LROC of Gippsland Victoria Australia            |       My car is constipated,
email: craigp@ocs.cpsg.com.au                   |       It has not passed a 
                                                |       thing all day!!

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Jun 1995 16:37:30 -0700
From: growl@hsmpk14a-101.Eng.Sun.COM (William L. Grouell)
Subject: Re: Hot in here /Heater valve SII

Well, almost, your flow is reversed for the heater;

          heater valve
                ~
                |         <-cold 
           o_   O<--------------------# passenger
           # |  |                     # heater
           # |  |                     |
         | # |  |   <-hot  [[[[]]]]   |
radiator V # o====X========[engine]   |  
           #    |-O-bp     [[[[]]]]   |       
           #      |        @     \----O
           #======O=======/       hot->          
          cold  -> return

  X is thermostat  Some early LRs have a "skirted" themostat that closes off
                   the by-pass as the thermostat opens. This part is NLS.
                   A skirted thermo can help increase the flow to the heater.
                   

  @ is water pump; sucks water from bottom of radiator *or* through by-pass
                   if themostat is closed (engine cold) *and* from heater
                   if heater valve is open. Pushes water into block-head-out.
                   Hot water from the top, rear of the head goes to heater.
                   Heater return is to the heater valve, screwed into the
                   by-pass casting at the front of the engine.
  bp is by-pass

R, bg

------------------------------

From: chi@dhvx20.csudh.edu
Date: Thu, 08 Jun 1995 16:47:58 PST
Subject: Range Rover Dealer and Price.  Los Angeles.

Hello my friend,
	I would like to find out about Range Rover dealership in Los Angeles 
area.  I will be buying the 4.0 SE this week and would like to get a great 
deal on the car.  If you know of any dealers that are easy to negotiate
please let me know about it.  

Thank you for your information!

Denny 
chi@dhvx20.csudh.edu

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Jun 1995 21:30:58 -0500
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Camel Trophy Daily Log

Wednesday, June 7th - Hundreds cheered in a downpour as the Camel Trophy 
team forded the muddy Mopan River and made its way into Xunantunich, 
Belize's best-preserved Mayan city and site of the final series of special 
tasks.  However, the strain of working up to 20 hours a day for 16 days as 
the team covered 1,700 km was showing on some of the participants.  Several 
dispalyed prominent battel wounds, while the worst occurered just before 
Xunantunich: international adventure photographer Hannes Schmid and his 
assistant were injuried when their Discovery rolled just before the finish. 
Both were airlifted to a hospital in Belize City; Hannes was hospitalized 
while his assistant Phillip Rathmer was released after being treated.  
Rathmer attributed his minor injuries to the strength of the vehicle.

The next two days will feature 30 hours of almost constant energy-sapping 
and mind-numbing special tasks.  The winning teams should be known by 
Thursday night.

Thursday, June 8th - "I need another man.  I am slowly killing my 
teammates," said Swiss participant Manuela Catalini.  In two days, she has 
lost two teammates.  On Sunday, team member Christian Gremaud sliced open 
his leg in a cholera-infected river; he was forced to withdraw.  Team 
journalist Jorg Petersen volunteered to take his place, but he too slipped 
in the same river whilst trying to carry a replica stone carving during a 
subsequent special task.  Tearing ligaments in his knee, he too was forced 
to withdraw. The other Swiss journalist, Richard Grell, stepped forward but 
doubted that his admittedly weak knees could carry the day.

Only a few of the special tasks involve driving, and many are near 
impossible.  Any of you fancy a go at the Camel Trophy?  Try this on for 
size: a task dubbed "Stone Woman" (the English translation of Xunantunich) 
involved pairs of teams trying to recover a 300 kg (!!!) stone engraving 
from 4 meters of murky water...and temperatures were in the high 30's (C).

American participant Daphne Green twisted here ankle but soldiered on 
despite it swelling to twice-normal size.  The "Mopan Communication" task 
had participants carry two, full 20 liter jerry cans and a spare tire 1,500 
meters.  It was luck (or rather *bad* luck) that the Dutch team of Erik Jan 
de Rooij and John Warmerdam got the high noon time slot.  "Each step is 
punishment enough without having the sun on your head," he said.
      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |       Rover Owners' Association of Virginia         |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 804-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    804-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 804-622-7056     |
      *-----------------------------------------------------*

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Jun 1995 21:30:54 -0500
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Remoulds

I've had favorable experiences with remoulds, 'cept on this side of the pond 
they're called "retreads".  Had a set of radial Uniroyals that wore out 
fairly quickly...only got 20,000 miles outta 'em.  As the sidewalls/carcass 
was in good shape, I had 'em retreaded at a local "Bandag" jobber.  The 
retreads lasted for 60,000 miles before the sidewwalls started cracking due 
to UV degradation.  By comparing the remaining tread depth to the original 
thickness, I figured they would've run 90,000 miles!!!  The only bad 
experience came two days into the experience...some slacker at the shop put 
a 6.00 by 16 tube in 7.50 X 16 radials...and it blew at 60 mph.  Wasn't the 
tire's fault, just that of some jughead at the changing station.  (The 
retreader made good and bought a new tire, though)  Cheers.
      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |       Rover Owners' Association of Virginia         |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 804-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    804-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 804-622-7056     |
      *-----------------------------------------------------*

------------------------------

From: Sanna@aol.com
Date: Thu, 8 Jun 1995 21:36:07 -0400
Subject: RePost

I checked in a while back with the problem that my '89 RR was a regular fog
machine when it's wet out.  The answer I got back was the one that I
expected, that is, that the fresh/recirc flap was stuck in the recirc
position.  The solution:  Buy a $40 solenoid or just fix the flap into the
open position.  Favoring the latter (I never choose recirc), my question to
the group today is:  Since the A/C works on recirc only, will I sabotage my
A/C system (great A/C, by the way), if I just pin the flap in the fresh
position?  Waddya think?  Huh?

xxx

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Jun 1995 20:12:32 -0700
From: gpool@pacific.pacific.net (Granville B. Pool)
Subject: LR Press Coverage

Well, it's true what one of you (was it Teri-ann?) said recently, that the
re-introduction of Land-Rovers to the US has raised awareness of the breed.
I had expected that this is what would happen and I'm glad it has.  Makes
all my years of diligent efforts at stalking all the derelict Land-Rovers
seem more worthwhile.  If I had a better place to put them, I do believe I'd
be out buying more (oh, yes, I can find them).

Just look at the amount of press coverage Land-Rovers are getting now.  Not
just the new ones (Four-Wheeler has been very good to them and the first
issue of Open Road was durn near full of 'em), but old ones, too.  Just this
evening, on the way home from work, I went to the supermarket and (of
course) stopped by the newsstand to check out the four-wheel-drive magazines
for Land-Rover content.  Lo and behold, the July issue of Peterson's
Four-Wheel and Off-Road had a letter from a John Deneke of Glen Rock, NJ,
complete with photo, telling about his 109 SW with a 215cid (3.5 liter)
aluminum V-8 stroked to 266cid (about 4.4 liters), mated to a TH 400 with
switch/pitch (whatever that is, presumably an automatic with a
variable-pitch torque converter).  Had other heavy duty fitments, too.	Then,
a couple of pages later, there was a Champion Spark Plug ad featuring an 80"
Series I (a 1950, I think), a trialer fitted with Lucas driving lamps and
dual front-mounted NATO water jerry cans.  

And it's been like that alot, lately.  I like it.  The July Road & Track
magazine had a little blurb about Land-Rover's co-venture with upscale tour
company Abercrombie & Kent to stage very upscale Land-Rover safaris in
various countries of Southeast Africa.  No prices mentioned but they sounded
*very* expensive.

Also in Four-Wheeler, there was a brief article about the finals for the
Camel Trophy.  Rather out-of-date for we of the net who can get blow-by-blow
descriptions each day, with photos.  Also was an article rating top ten best
buys in 4x4s and Land-Rover was in there, too, as the best value in Luxury
SUVs (the Range Rover "Classic").

I especially liked it that Champion would use a 45-year old Land-Rover in an
ad in an American red-neck 4x4 magazine.  Life is good.

Cheers,

Granville B. Pool, Redwood Valley, CA
<gpool@pacific.pacific.net>
(707)485-7220 (home)   (707)463-4265 (work)
'73 Land-Rover 88, more LRs, Austin Champ, BMW 3.0si, Peugeot 505 Turbo...

------------------------------

From: "Walter C. Swain" <wcswain@s101dcascr.wr.usgs.gov>
Subject: Re: Remoulds
Date: Thu, 8 Jun 1995 22:15:07 -0700 (PDT)

>>>>> Alexander P. Grice writes:
> I've had favorable experiences with remoulds, 'cept on this side of the pond 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> fairly quickly...only got 20,000 miles outta 'em.  As the sidewalls/carcass 
> was in good shape, I had 'em retreaded at a local "Bandag" jobber.  

This raises an important point for anybody considering using
retreads/remoulds.  A few years ago I had a complete set of Michelin
retreads from a quite reputable local Michelin dealer in an odd size
(7.50x15).  A couple of the carcasses failed and were replaced with no
question and three more failed in rapid order.  It turned out that the
tire size was so unusual (obsolete) that they had difficulty finding
donors and they all were too old.  The retreaded part was fine, but those
fine old Michelin tires were just too tired. 

Anybody wanting to save money this way ought to follow Sandy's example in 
making certain that the donor tires are fairly new.

Walter Swain      1967 IIA 109 Safari SW, petrol
Davis, CA

------------------------------

From: dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au (Daryl Webb)
Subject: Re: Radials on a Rover? How BIG?
Date: Fri, 9 Jun 1995 16:38:33 +0930 (CST)

Alan writes:
                       <snip...>

> What I was told by DAP was to avoid anything over a 205 75 R 16 tire with a
> 109 with overdrive as it puts too much of a strain on the Fairey. 

Uuum maybe I'm missing something here but what has tyre diameter got to do
with the stresses and strain on the O/D?  Max engine torque is still max
engine torque regardless of tyre size isnt it.  If tyre size screwed up O/D's
then so would diff ratio changes, but even more so...

I'd really like to know what point they are trying to make... sounds like
B_____t to me. can anyone explain.....

What does using factory 9.00-16 do to an O/D if tyres taller than 205's are
bad for them??????

As to radial sizes I've run 235/85-16 8pl Radials on a IIa 109 with O/D and
3.3L worked 6cyl.  O/d used to get a bit hot but we cruised at 140+ Kmh..

I know of people using 255?/85-16 BFG M-T's on sIII's.  Turning circle blows
out a bit but if thats waht you want...

I dont know what you have over there but I'm reasonably happy with my
235/85-16 Hankook Z36's (korean) (old Goodyear wrangler pattern clone)  The
rubber compound seems to be fairly hard as they are wearing very well, but
can be a bit skatey on wet roads (still heaps better than Bias plys)  They
have scalloped a bit more than I would like, but some of that may be my fault
(g)  They have certainly lasted longer than the 750-16 G/year wranglers they
replaced.   Over here (OZ) the korean tyres (Hankook, Kumho, etc) are one hell
of a lot cheaper than locally made/USA/Euro/JAP stuff.  Might be worth a
look.

boss's comming gotta go

-- 

  Daryl Webb   (dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au)

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