Land Rover Owner Message Digest Contents

[ First Message Last | Table of Contents | <- Digest -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

Send Submissions Land-Rover-Owner@Land-Rover.Team.Net

From: Tom Stevenson <gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk>
Subject: Leaky PS box
Date: Wed, 7 Jun 1995 11:07:23 +0100 (BST)

Ken
If the power steering is still working but is just leaking oil from the
bottom where the vertical shaft emerges, then it is worth trying to
replace the bottom shaft seal only , which can be done without removing the PS
box from the vehicle. This is held in place by a large circlip.
If this does not work then I would recommend a new PS box, since fitting
all new seals alone rarely works well because of wear/pitting etc on the
moving parts inside the PS box. 
-- 
Tom Stevenson: gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk
University Marine Biological Station, Isle of Cumbrae, Scotland
Tel:(01475) 530581  Fax:(01475) 530601

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Jun 1995 11:22:43 +0059 (BST)
From: Charlie Wright <cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: Frozen brake calipers

On Tue, 7 Jun 1994, Ken Berliner wrote:

> This friend - Andy - claims that it is my romps through mud and high water
> that is causing the frozen calipers on my '89 RR.  I argue that it seems
> kind of strange that a car designed specifically for that should die after
> a brief stroll through mud.  

It would be next-to-impossible (or at least very expensive and with lots 
of compromises) to build mud-proof brakes. That's why you need to hose 
them down very thoroughly after any mudding.  Preferably before you 
drive at anything resembling road speeds... though this isn't always 
possible. You will score your discs and seize brake cylinders otherwise.

Inboard brakes (or even in-axle brakes) might be more easily protected 
from mud and muck, but they have their own (greater) problems.  Most of 
all, anything that's hard for mud to get into is even harder for you to 
get into...  so they put 'em out front where they get muddy and you can 
hose them down.

I'd take them apart and decide what parts need replacing. Discs may be 
scored, you'll need to check the surface carefully and the thickness with 
a micrometer.  You may be able to un-freeze the calipers, but I would 
certainly have re-built kits on hand (seals and pistons).  You'll need to 
break them down, clean them out, and blow them dry with compressed air.  
Then check the bores. If the rubber seals were at all damaged, you may 
find the bores scored. If there was water in the brake fluid, you'll find 
pitting.  If this is serious (can't be removed by _gentle_ honing) then 
you'll need to have them bored out. If _this_ cannot remove the scoring 
without going beyond the tolerances in the workshop manual, you'll have to 
replace them. I suspect this will cost quite a bit. 

Always spend money on brakes. It's a lot cheaper than the new chassis/higher 
insurance/medical bills that could result from bad brakes.

I've had two pistons freeze on me while my parents look after my car in
the 'states. It cost a LOT more to replace/repair them than a flush with
silicone fluid would have. Big mistake not doing that before in the first 
place. 

Good luck,
Charlie

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Jun 1995 09:33:21 +0200
From: Peter Kutschera <peter@zditr1.arcs.ac.at>
Subject: Re: 109 brake question

Hello!

:) QUESTION:
:) How does one determine which side a front 109 brake plate goes on.
:) 
:) The two plates are mirror images of each other.
:) 
:) My guess is that the front brake adjuster sits near the top of the back plate 
:) and the rear adjuster fits fits low on the back plate.
:) 
:) Can anyone near a 109 run out & verify this for me?  I would love to put the 
:) back plates on tonight.

Just was out there (I'ts not longer raining). Yes, the adjuster on the front 
side is higher then the other. 

Happy screwing
 Peter

Signature: http://zditr1.arcs.ac.at/~peter

:)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Jun 1995 13:12:08 +0200
From: dbeers@eu.wang.com (David Beers)
Subject: Re: Stereos in SIIs

>If one were insane enough to want an audio system of some sort in
>a Series IIa, where's the best place to put it?

I just finished installing a stereo in my LR 90, and I have to say that I am 
quite pleased with the result.  I installed both the radio and the speakers 
in the cubby box between the driver and passenger seats.  For those who 
don't know, a cubby box is a massive wooden box covered in vinyl or cloth 
that fits in the place between the seats that would have been occupied by 
the middle seat.  These cubby boxes are offered as options from Land Rover, 
or you can buy OEM equivalents (check the adverts in LROI mag.)  The cubby 
box comes with a hinged lid that is lockable.  My radio is of the old 
removeable type, so I just slide it out of its chassis and lock it in the 
box to get it out of sight.  The radio has been mounted vertically in the 
open tray at the front top of the box for good access to the controls.  This 
would perhaps not work too well with a CD player, as I believe that they 
have to be mounted more horizontally.  The speakers are mounted on the 
sides.  An added bonus is that the cubby box serves as a booster for the 
bass frequencies.  You can really hear the difference when you open and 
close the lid!

-David

1989 LR 90 Turbodiesel

------------------------------

From: Sanna@aol.com
Date: Wed, 7 Jun 1995 07:16:14 -0400
Subject: Re: Steering gear box

RR power stearing pumps are notorius leakers, and are non-rebuildable.  I
replaced mine at 56,000.  It could be your box, but I'd bet that it's your
pump.

------------------------------

From: Alan Richer <Alan_Richer.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date:  7 Jun 95  9:02:51 EDT
Subject: Engine rebuilds: Any gotchas?

Alas, I am in the throes of the engine rebuild dilemma....

I am about to start reassembling a 2.25L petrol engine that was part of the 
purchse
of my Series IIa 109. It was already disassembled when I got it (shudder), but
was supposedly from a vehicle with less than 40K miles on it (a military that
died of terminal chassis rot).

COnsidering the block is COMPLETELY empty (even the camshaft is out), are
there any things I should do to ensure myself a long-lasting engine? Also, are
there any particular "gotchas" (pitfalls for the UK types..<grin>) that I 
should watch
out for while doing this? It's been a while since I rebuilt my last Chevy....

      Yours, Alan

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Jun 1995 16:29:30 +0200
From: dbeers@eu.wang.com (David Beers)
Subject: Basic Wheels for LR 90

I know the subject of wheel compatibility has come up before, but here it 
goes...  Does anybody know if the steel wheels that modern Land Rovers (i.e. 
 90/110/130) wear are the same as the ones that have been fitted to Series 
II/III vehicles of the past?  I am referring to the basic utilitarian wheels 
here, not the steel Range Rover types, which are the ones that my Land Rover 
90 TD comes with.  I am thinking of picking up a second set of wheels from 
an ex-Belgian Army Series III wreck being sold for parts.

Thanks,

-David

1989 Land Rover 90 TD

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 07 Jun 95 10:30:21 EST
From: lenagham@bachman.com
Subject: Re: Temp sending units

     There are 3 water temp sensors on the RR. 
     
     1. senses water temp and sends signal to the computer. It is one of 
     the few sensors that causes the EFI light on the instrument panel to 
     illuminate if the ECU detects a problem with it. 
     
     2. there is a sensor which is used to as part of the circuit for the 
     temp gauge, it only has a single wire going to it. This is the one to 
     replace if your temp gauge is giving erratic readings.
     
     3. There is also a sensor in the thermostat housing which I think is 
     used to switch on the auxiliary electric fans (which are always on 
     when the A/C is running) in the event that the coolant exceeds a given 
     temp.
     
     When the temp gauge on my RR started reading way in the red and 
     neither of the other 2 sensors caused either the EFI light or fans to 
     come on then I was pretty sure I wasn't overheating!
     
     Mike Lenaghan
     87 RR

------------------------------

From: BobandSueB@aol.com
Date: Wed, 7 Jun 1995 11:28:03 -0400
Subject: Hot in here /Heater valve SII

Chris said,

>With no heater shut-off valve in the IIA it's hot in here. I bought a SRIII
>shut-off valve from RN to install. Anyone had any experience doing this?
>Guy at RN said that the pull knob will work backwards. True?

>Chris Stevens                           1969 SRIIA 88" SW

 My Experience with the heater valve was because I didnt like the  late 2A
(69) valve on top of the thermostat. and special hose(1/2 to 5/8) hard to
get.
So I went to local auto parts and bought a  control valve for a few dollars.
It's 5/8 straight through/ cable controlled and mounts anywhere you want it
in the hose.
Its been a while but I think it was Stant H-504 or something close.I think
it's originally for a Ford P/U.  The parts counter person can find it easily
in the book.
regards.

 Bob Bernard

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Jun 95 09:00 MST
From: jhoward@argus.lowell.edu (James D. Howard II)
Subject: Sighting and misc 

I recently went on a mountain bike trip travelling from Flagstaff, AZ,
to the Grand Canyon.  One of the organizers of the trip was a fellow
Series III owner.  When he bought his, it had a Subaru turbocharger on
it.  He said it went well, but the head couldn't take it.  When it
blew, he got a new head and threw the turbo away.  I also chanced upon
a 1980 Stage One here in Flagstaff.  I was curious as to how he got it
into the country.  He said he brought it back from Saudi Arabia after
Desert Storm.  I didn't ask any other questions, but I have visions of
clandestine C130 payloads going through my head.  I have also seen a
Range Rover SE around a couple of times.

I have been taking my Land Rover off road as much as possible
recently.  I often camp near work on weeknights, since the weather has
been so nice.  One of the benefits of working in the National Forest.

I accidently ordered the wrong distributor cap, so if anyone is
passing through and needs a later type Lucas flat top, let me know.

James

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Jun 1995 09:43:01 -0700
From: growl@hsmpk14a-101.Eng.Sun.COM (William L. Grouell)
Subject: Re: Hot in here /Heater valve SII

> So I went to local auto parts and bought a  control valve for a few dollars.
> It's 5/8 straight through/ cable controlled and mounts anywhere you want it
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> in the hose.
>  Bob Bernard

 Mine is like that, only *not* cable controled. You open the hood and turn
CCW in Nov. and Turn CW in March. No holes to drill.

R, bg

------------------------------

From: Sanna@aol.com
Date: Wed, 7 Jun 1995 12:53:35 -0400
Subject: Re: Hot in here /Heater valve SII

I didn't care much for the '70 IIa valve either.  Since heat in the Rover was
an all or nothing need, I just pulled the cable controlled valve altogether
and just ran the hose diectly from the engine to the heater core.  Years
later I spliced a regular brass valve from the hardware store into the line
so I could shut it off in the summer.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Jun 95 10:04:40 PDT
From: brabyn@skivs.ski.org (John Brabyn)
Subject: Re:  Frozen brake calipers

Doesn't seem right to me about the mud and high water; are you sure it's the
calipers and not the master cylinder, vacuum boost, etc??

Cheers

John Brabyn
89 RR

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Jun 95 10:12:13 PDT
From: brabyn@skivs.ski.org (John Brabyn)
Subject: Re:  Steering gear box

Yes I've had the same problem twice. The leak is probably from the input shaft
seal on the steering box, or less likely the output shaft seal. The first 
time it happened to me about 3 years ago I had it fixed by the dealer who rebuilt 
the box. However it started leaking again after a couple of years. I've
since talked to RR dealer mechanics about it etc; from what I can make out
the input shaft tends to wear and replacing the seals is only a temporary
fix. Land Rover recommend replacing the whole box, but that costs about
$1k or so just for parts so I have been putting it off. One RR mechanic
recommended living with it until it started using copious amounts of fluid
(note it's ATF, not power steering fluid) unless you are feeling rich!

You can get a set of seals for it from Atlantic British for about $85 if
you want to have a go at it.

Let me know how you get on!

Cheers

John Brabyn

89 RR
Mill Valley, Ca

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Jun 95 10:17:56 PDT
From: brabyn@skivs.ski.org (John Brabyn)
Subject: Re:  Transfer Case

Just a thought -- I wonder if you can poke around inside through the drain 
or filler plug to see if the chain is really loose??

Cheers

John Brabyn
89RR

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Jun 95 10:21:01 PDT
From: brabyn@skivs.ski.org (John Brabyn)
Subject: Re:  Temp sending units

Yes there are 2 temp sending units. The one driving the gauge is called the
sending unit, and the other one is the coolant temperature sensor (thermistor)
which provides input to the ECU. So the computer does not see the same
erroneous reading as the gauge. 

John
89 RR

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Jun 1995 20:56:02 +0059 (BST)
From: Charlie Wright <cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: Frozen brake calipers

On Wed, 7 Jun 1995, John Brabyn wrote:

> Doesn't seem right to me about the mud and high water; are you sure it's the
> calipers and not the master cylinder, vacuum boost, etc??

John's got a point there, although I agree that mud/water would damage 
brakes, I doubt both front calipers would sieze together... I'd check 
other things (common things) first. 

Nevertheless, look after those brakes and they'll look after you (at 
least a little more reliably).

Cheers,
Charlie

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Jun 1995 16:03:34 -0500
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Camel Trophy Daily Log

Monday, June 6th - Monday's little exercise was supposed to be a "warm-up" 
for the final set of special tasks, now underway.  After almost two weeks 
behind the wheel of their Discoveries, the organizers figured the teams 
needed a little something to get the blood flowing again - literally.

The "water wheel" event was designed to be a short, sharp shock just before 
the final special tasks on Wednesday and Thursday.  Each team was given two 
'Pelican' waterproof cases, a length of sand ladder and a spare tire.  The 
object was to paddle/swim/drag/haul the package 300 meters up the Rio Mopan 
and then tote it to the top of a small hill.  This test of stamina and 
spirit was just too much for some teams, a jagged rocks lined the route.

The Italians didn't even notice that they had taken a wrong turn until it 
was too late.  One of the Swiss competetors, Christian Gremaud, tripped in 
the river and gashed himself badly on the edge of the sand ladder.  He 
needed at least twelve stitches and imobilization of his leg; the Swiss team 
may be forced to withdraw from competition.  France passed the UK team, 
stuck in the fast water, but were unable to capitalize on their lead. Gerard 
Champoiral's legs turned to jelly on the final hill and the South African 
team of Marc Pincente and Paul Leslie-Smith clawed their way past the French 
on the final hill.

The stage is now set for the final set of special tasks to be held at 
Xunantunich Wednesday and Thursday.  Stay tuned!
 
      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |       Rover Owners' Association of Virginia         |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 804-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    804-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 804-622-7056     |
      *-----------------------------------------------------*

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Jun 1995 16:30:15 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Steven Swiger (LIS)" <swiger@luna.cas.usf.edu>
Subject: multiple messages...

uh,
i was just wondering if possibly message sent at the same time to the 
same place could be compressed into one mail message.  My mailer and my 
SysAdmin are beginning to scream at me because I am getting much mail 
per day and am only able to check once a day...
just a thought, no hard feelings.
Sorry for the waste of bandwidth,
thnx, and happy roverin;}
steve & da moose
'73 III Moose (under construction)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 07 Jun 95 15:37:20 MST
From: DEBROWN@SRP.GOV
Subject: Ever put 34-9.50-15 tires on a Land Rover?

FROM:  David Brown                           Internet: debrown@srp.gov
       Computer Graphics Specialist * Mapping Services & Engr Graphics
       PAB219 (602)236-3544 -  Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486
SUBJECT: Ever put 34-9.50-15 tires on a Land Rover?
Hello all, I need tires on a '71 IIa 88, and am looking at using either
BFG 33x9.50x15 MT or Super Swamper 34x9.50x15.

Has anyone ever installed the "34's" (Super swamper)?

Will the 9.50's fit on standard Rover rims?

Anyone know of any sources for LR wheels? They're a "5 on 6.5 inch" rim
size, and nobody that I have called yet has anything in this size. I am
in the US, but may have to order them from the UK if not available on
this side of the pond.

Thanks a lot for your help! BTW, my steering track rod should arrive
today, then I can drive her again! I ended up getting it from Rovers
North at around $85. (Ludicrous compared to UK price, but when ya need
it....)

#=======#                Never doubt that a small group of individuals
|__|__|__\___            can change the world... indeed, it's the only
| _|  |   |_ |}          thing that ever has.
"(_)""""""(_)"                                          -Margaret Mead

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 07 Jun 95 15:47:31 MST
From: DEBROWN@SRP.GOV
Subject: Serial # placard for 109's.

FROM:  David Brown                           Internet: debrown@srp.gov
       Computer Graphics Specialist * Mapping Services & Engr Graphics
       PAB219 (602)236-3544 -  Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486
SUBJECT: Serial # placard for 109's.
British pacific has located a sample serial number placard for a IIa
109, and should have them back from the printers soon. This should help
with the registration of mine since it is missing, and the frame serial
number can't be read.

Any suggestions on how to stamp in the serial #, or where to have it
done?

Then, to make it look 25 years old.... Hmmmmm.....

Thanks,

 #=====#         #========#          -------,___
 |___|__\___     |___|__|__\___      |--' |  |  \_|_
 | _ |   |_ |}   | _ |  |   |_ |}    |  _ |--+--|_  |
 "(_)""""(_)"    "(_)"""""""(_)"    ||_/_\___|__/_\_|}
                                       (_)      (_)
 1971 "88" IIa   1970 "109" IIa     1994 Discovery (for sale $30,000)
                                                   (Too hard to "draw")

#=======#                Never doubt that a small group of individuals
|__|__|__\___            can change the world... indeed, it's the only
| _|  |   |_ |}          thing that ever has.
"(_)""""""(_)"                                          -Margaret Mead

------------------------------

From: Craig Murray <craigp@ocs.cpsg.com.au>
Subject: Re: Basic Wheels for LR 90
Date: Thu, 8 Jun 95 8:49:35 EST

David writes:
> Does anybody know if the steel wheels that modern Land Rovers (i.e. 
>  90/110/130) wear are the same as the ones that have been fitted to Series 
> II/III vehicles of the past?

The rims fitted to the coil sprung Land Rovers have a wider off set, but 
you can get a set of Series rims and have the middle turned around to 
give you a very large off set.

--
==============================================================================
Craig Murray                                    |       1955 Series 1 86"
LROC of Victoria Australia                      |       2.25 diesel 
LROC of Gippsland Victoria Australia            |       My car is constipated,
email: craigp@ocs.cpsg.com.au                   |       It has not passed a 
                                                |       thing all day!!

------------------------------

From: Spenny@aol.com
Date: Wed, 7 Jun 1995 21:31:26 -0400
Subject: Hot in here /Heater valve SII

Bill Wrote:
 Mine is like that, only *not* cable controled. You open the hood and turn
*the valve* CCW in Nov. and Turn CW in March. No holes to drill.

How does this work?
Doesnt the valve stop the circulation of the heating system?
I dont understand? 

spenny

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 07 Jun 1995 20:39:26 +0100
From: cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine)
Subject: Re: Hot in here /Heater valve SII

 Spencer KC Norcross <Spenny@aol.com> writes:

>> Mine is like that, only *not* cable controled. You open the hood and
   turn *the valve* CCW in Nov. and Turn CW in March. No holes to drill.

>How does this work?
 Doesnt the valve stop the circulation of the heating system?
 I dont understand?

 Exactly!  He stops the diversion or circulation of the coolant to the
 heating system in the summer (Turn Clock-Wise in March), and turns it
 on again for the winter (Counter-Clock Wise in Nov.).  It's a seasonal
 thing, the heater is on ALL winter, and off ALL summer, get it?

-Michael
 cs@crl.com 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Jun 1995 04:51:43 GMT
From: johnliu@lainet.com (John Y. Liu)
Subject: Swivel pin rebuild -- advice?

Whilst rotating tires, I noticed that my Sr IIA 109 has about  1/2" of play 
in-and-out at the top of the front tires with the front end jacked up and 
the brakes applied.

I wonder if this suggests replacement of the swivel pin bushes?   If so, 
does anyone have suggestions for what else I should renew as long as I have 
the swivel pin assembly apart, and does anyone have experience with how long 
the job takes and/or any particularly tricky/exasperating/puzzling parts of 
the job (that are not pointed out in the Haynes manual)?  Lastly, does 
anyone have favorable or unfavorable comments about the idea of adding 
gaiters while I am at it?

Thanks.

------------------------------

  END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST 
 Input:  messages 24 lines 825 [forwarded 29 whitespace 191]
 Output: lines 700 [content 388  forwarded 27 (cut  2) whitespace 189]



    
Back
	
    
Forward
	


	
    

        
  
	



Photos & text Copyright 1990-2011
	Bill Caloccia, All rights reserved. 

Digest Messages Copyright 1990-2011 by the original poster or/and
	Bill Caloccia,
	All rights reserved.