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Date: 06 Jun 95 04:24:50 EDT
From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com>
Subject: Re: Heater air recirculation on RR

John Grant unravels the mysteries of the RR heating system...

>vacuum. Well, when the air is set to not recirculate the valve opens and
>the "suck" holds open the air intake flap. After a few years it burns out -

...you never stop learning. I had a hunch that it wasn't quite normal for
the RR to turn into a humid sauna when operating the heating in winter.
Well, following Johns advice I found the vacuum pipe and followed it into
the engine bay, only to discover that it was dangling there and wasn't
connected to anything. Can't even blame a PO for that because it was _us_
who had the engine out and installed everything - almost. On the other
hand I can't find any free point or intake where to connect this vacuum
hose, there's something connected everywhere! Where exactly does it go??
(on a '87 3.5 Efi that is...)

Puzzled,

Stefan
<Stefan R. Jacob, 100043.2400@CompuServe.com>

------------------------------

From: Andrew Grafton <A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk>
Subject: Tyres for a 109
Date: Tue, 6 Jun 95 10:54:06 BST

> I now also steer clear of retreads after a rather exciting
> tread-shedding episode in the Dartford tunnel some years ago. This was

You too?!  What is it with the Dartford tunnel?  I shed a remould
tread in there a couple of years ago...

I'm still pottering about on remoulds, though!  The problem
has raised its ugly head again, although this time
it's for an expedition.  The bottom line is cost - 
Remoulds are half the price of a reasonably well specified new
tyre, and we're not too worried about
the inconvenience of having to change a tyre if one does go 
wrong.  Most of the distance will be on not-too-rough terrain
or tarmac at low speeds.

I spoke at length to Colway tyres about their remoulds and whilst
the chap did admit that they go wrong, he was very positive about
the advances in remould technology.  Then again, he did work for
the company... ;-)  They wouldn't put their money (or tyres) where 
their mouth was.

One of the big arguments in his favour was that we'd be operating 
at about 1/2 the maximum specified speed and load rating.

He was less forthcoming about what would happen to the tread if
we were traversing a sideslope fully laden in high temperatures.

The thing we have to weigh up is the possibility of a 
catastrophic failure of a tyre at a critical point, resulting
in a crunched vehicle.  That can, however, happen to a new tyre.

Anyone out there have a remould *really* go wrong, not just throw 
the tread?      

Just my opinions so far...

Andy
A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk
  

------------------------------

From: "Steve Methley" <sgm@hplb.hpl.hp.com>
Date: Tue, 6 Jun 1995 11:00:47 +0100
Subject: Re: Temperature Sending Unit Success (V8 comments)

Russ says:
>I have noticed that both my Rovers, D-90 R-Rover will display
>a hotter temp for the first 10-15 minutes, then run cooler.
I
>attribute this to some hysterises in the thermastat. I have
>been assuming that the engine heats up quicker than the thermostat
can react

Yes, my explanation is along the same lines.  The problem with
electric temp guages (and oil for that matter) is that they are
painfully slow, obscuring the behaviour of what you are trying to
measure.

Connect a capilliary water temp guage and see in real time what is
happening.  You'll see that at the designated temp the 'stat opens
(feel the top hose to know when) and then the real hot stuff from the
block flows out past the sensor and whips the gauge over quite
alarmingly if you're not expecting it.  The V8 heats a lot of water
don't forget.

What you are seeing is this normal behaviour diluted by the slow
response time of your electric gauge.  Don't worry too much.  I'd say
your cooling flow must be a little slower than mine however, 15
minutes is getting on the longish side.
--

Best Regards,
Steve.

------------------------------

From: Franz.Parzefall@Physik.TU-Muenchen.DE
Subject: Where to get military Land Rovers?
Date: Tue, 6 Jun 1995 13:39:38 +0200 (MET DST)

Hi all!
Last week I took a look at an exmilitary 1989 D110. The car was
a dream: no rust anywhere and it looked brandnew. The only problem
was the price - 25000DM a bit more than I can spend. The owner
told me, that he bought it in Berlin from the British Army, but
he didn't want to tell me where exactly.
Can anybody here on the list tell me where in Europe (need not necessarily
be Berlin) the British Army sells their old Defenders?

Thanks !
Franz
---------------------------------------------------------------
Franz Parzefall     fparzefa@physik.tu-muenchen.de     
---------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Jun 1995 08:36:11 -0500
From: chrisste@clark.net (Chris Stevens)
Subject: HOT IN HERE

With no heater shut-off valve in the IIA it's hot in here. I bought a SRIII
shut-off valve from RN to install. Anyone had any experience doing this?
Guy at RN said that the pull knob will work backwards. True?

Chris Stevens                           1969 SRIIA 88" SW

BCG Corporate Communications
Towson, Maryland, USA
(410) 583-1722
(410) 583-1935 (FAX)
chrisste@Clark.net

------------------------------

Subject: RR                     02
From: brian.imdieke@iotp.com (BRIAN IMDIEKE)
Date: Mon, 05 Jun 95 21:55:00 -700

Continued from the previous message...
úÿ
Compared to my Mercedes, this is way underpowered.  But compared to the
average car, or especially to the average sport-ute, I think the power is
OK.  You do have to get used to shoving the accelerator a long way
though.  If you use a lot of leg and let the engine rev up, it goes
very well.

BI> want power to be applied in a very gradual way. My transmission shif
BI> rough side, which may be due to not being broken in at this point in

My trans is smooth as silk.  Much better than my Benz, about the same as
my Lexus was.  Check your trans oil level first (check it COLD idling
in neutral).  If that's OK, have your dealer look at it.  It should be
very smooth.

BI> miles. Apparently, there is no strong consensus as to how often to c
BI> oil once you put in Mobil One.

Yeah, do what you think is best.  I'm just passing along my experience.

cc: LAND ROVER OWNERS in 0002 on INNPARK

You've heard from.....

        Brian Imdieke           <brian.imdieke@iotp.com>
        Phoenix, Arizona
        USA

---
 þ RM 1.3 01654 þ Imagine the child of Oscar Mayer and Betty Crocker.
 * KMail 3.00  IOTP: AZ's LARGEST PCBoard - with INTERNET!

------------------------------

Subject: RR                     01
From: brian.imdieke@iotp.com (BRIAN IMDIEKE)
Date: Mon, 05 Jun 95 21:55:00 -700

 ÛßßßßßßßßÛ Original       To: BENJAMIN G. NEWMAN
 Û CARBON Û      was       By: BRIAN IMDIEKE
 Û  COPY  Û   posted:      On: INNPARK
 ÛÜÜÜÜÜÜÜÜÛ              Conf: 0002 - INTERNET EMAI
-----------------------------------------------------------------------

BI> Well, with your encouragement, I did take my SE off road and what a
BI> experience. However, I feel very guilty about getting this car in th

Hoorrraaaayyyyy!  Told you it was great!

BI> certainly the mud is out of the question at this point in time. I pu
BI> avoided trees or anything that will scratch the paint. I still have
BI> taking my Series IIA vehicles off road in heavy brush.

Well I've had mine DEEEEP in the mud.  The way I see it, you got to get
the undercarriage covered with a layer of mud to keep that black
undercoating stuff from dripping on your driveway.  Besides, sliding
around in it is fun!  Better have someone around to pull you out though,
just in case.

I know what you mean about the scratches.  I do most of my off road
stuff in the mountains in northern AZ.  I have a second home there so
it's easy to jump out on the trails on weekends.  Trails up here are
usually pretty narrow so some light scratching from tree limbs is a
regular event.  So far though, I've been able to remove them with wax.
My last vehicle was a late model Land Cruiser.  Even after three years
of tree limbs, all the scratches waxed off before trade-in.  That was a
good vehicle off road by the way.  I have covered many trails in the SE
that I had previously done in the Cruiser and the SE is definitely
better off road.  It's just that it is so much easier.  The suspension
soaks up large rocks, ruts and the like and the traction control makes
climbing loose/steep trails a breeze.  Add in the additional comfort and
smoothness on road and I'm happier than pigs in mud.

BI> I really believe this vehicle is made primarily for off-road activit
BI> though 99% of us won't do that. The details and precision of this ve
BI> compare, in my opinion, to the Lexus. I think for many of us, it is

Well, I don't know if it's made *primarily* for off road use, but it is
a shame that more people don't use these vehicles to get off the beaten
path and see the other America.  Get together with your Rover dealer and
other Rover owners and take your SE on some of their excursions.  You
don't have to hurt it to use it the way it was intended.  You paid a lot
of money for 'the most capable luxury vehicle in the world' so enjoy it.
If something should go wrong, take it in, get it fixed and head straight
back out into the bush.  That's what you work so hard for everyday.

BI> psychology of knowing that you have a vehicle that -- from an engine
BI> standpoint -- is superb, even though it is not as compulsively made
BI> the Japanese cars.

Yeah, I have to say that my Lexus was screwed together very well.  But,
it lacked soul.  Character.  Oh, that thing never broke, but it wasn't
FUN either.  I've never regretted trading it for my Mercedes.

BI> The climate control is really a problem for me also. When I put it o
BI> blower continues to go no matter what the interior temperature is. L
BI> Florida, we also get a lot of sun. Today is a cloudy day and it seem
BI> blower isn't running as high. I am not sure what triggers this. Is i
BI> temperature or is it ambient light?

On the dash, nest to the LED for the alarm system, is a round disk about
the size of a nickel.  That is the solar sensor.  It measures the amount
of direct sunlight hitting the car and kicks the fan up to compensate.
Living in Florida, you have the same problem as I do.  We don't need the
sun to be very hot!  While I like the solar sensor, I think the system
should also be concerned with the temperature difference between the set
temperature and the actual in-car temp.  Around here, on a hot night the
car will never get to the set temp. because the fan is too slow.  Sounds
like you have the same problem.

BI> I am sure you have noticed by now that the engine is slightly under
BI> the weight of this vehicle and the linkage of the accelorator is ext
BI> thereby requiring lots of travel before you have adequate accelorati
BI> suspect this is done purposefully because in an off-road situation,

úÿ
Continued in the next message...
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 * KMail 3.00  IOTP: AZ's LARGEST PCBoard - with INTERNET!

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Jun 1995 14:42:38 +0059 (BST)
From: Charlie Wright <cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: HOT IN HERE

I guess you mean cut-off valve in the water-hoses?  I don't know where 
your heater hoses tap into the cooling system, but on both my IIa's ('70 
and '66) I find a cut-off valve on the point that the hose leaves the 
head.  You might have a look. It's not much use on the road, but it works 
as a seasonal thing.

Charlie

C. R. Wright                                    Dept. of Genetics
+44 (0)1223 333970 telephone                    Univ. of Cambridge
+44 (0)1223 333992 telefax                      Downing Street, Cambs.
cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk                        CB2 3EH, England

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 06 Jun 95 10:13:50 EST
From: lenagham@bachman.com
Subject: Re[2]: Heater air recirculation on RR

     Stefan,
     
     the vacuum routing on the 87 RR (3.5 EFI North American Spec) for the 
     recirculating solenoid is as follows:
     
     At the front rhs of the plenum chamber there is a vacuum line that 
     should take a torturous route to the vacuum resevoir (a black sphere 
     located at the left front of the engine compartment right under the 
     air intake) the vacuum line should be fitted to the connection closest 
     to the radiator. The output of the resevoir goes into the vehicle, I 
     assume to the solenoid. There is probably a T-connection under the 
     dash that also supplies this vacuum signal to the cruise control, 
     since another vacuum line feeds through the dash panel to a T piece in 
     the engine compartment that is connected to to the vacuum control on 
     the throttle linkage and also to the cruise control solenoid down near 
     the vacuum resevoir.
     
     Hope this helps.
     
     Mike Lenaghan
     87 RR

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Jun 1995 15:27:49 +0059 (BST)
From: Charlie Wright <cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: RR 02

On Mon, 5 Jun 1995, BRIAN IMDIEKE wrote:

> Continued from the previous message...
> Compared to my Mercedes, this is way underpowered.  But compared to the
> average car, or especially to the average sport-ute, I think the power is
> OK.  

Sorry Brian, but you're not winning a lot of sympathy from the 
oily-wadders...

> You do have to get used to shoving the accelerator a long way
> though.  If you use a lot of leg and let the engine rev up, it goes
> very well.

If I drive off a cliff into a downdraft, mine goes pretty well too.

> BI> want power to be applied in a very gradual way. My transmission shif
> BI> rough side, which may be due to not being broken in at this point in

Try double-de-clutching? ;-)

> My trans is smooth as silk.  Much better than my Benz, about the same as
> my Lexus was.  Check your trans oil level first (check it COLD idling
> in neutral).  If that's OK, have your dealer look at it.  It should be
> very smooth.

If the terrain is rough enough, you shouldn't notice...
 
> BI> miles. Apparently, there is no strong consensus as to how often to c
> BI> oil once you put in Mobil One.

Whenever you get water in the sump from wading up to your neck, or every 
8-10,000 'highway miles' (this is a recommendation I've really seen.)

> Yeah, do what you think is best.  I'm just passing along my experience.

Gentlemen, what we (and I speak for at least two of us) really want you 
to pass along is a fine collection of off-road impressions, anecdotes, and 
jpegs of you up to your window-sills in mud. Go get those monster 
machines dirty! I want to know they're being used...

Cheers,
Charlie

------------------------------

From: "David McKain" <MCKAIN@faculty.coe.wvu.edu>
Date:          Tue, 6 Jun 1995 11:15:21 EDT
Subject:       Tropical Roof

Just looking for some recommendations. I just obtained a slightly 
used tropical roof for my series LR and would like to get any 
recommendations on taking the skin off the top. Should I or shouldn't 
I? It needs some preperation before I put any paint on it but in 
general it only has a few dings. Is it worth the trouble? Any help is 
appreciated.

BTW, the 88 mentioned in sacraficial landie yesterday is about two 
hours from complete disassembly. Like all LR's this one could have 
been declared as a complete ecosystem, lots of mice, bugs, and 
various flora (weeds and lychen).

David McKain
1966 SIIa Petrol
mckain@faculty.coe.wvu.edu
(304) 599-0120
Morgantown, WV
USA                     

------------------------------

From: "Richard Lucking" <BU063@ist2.co.umist.ac.uk>
Date:          Tue, 6 Jun 1995 16:38:35 GB/EIRE
Subject:       Thanks!!!

I am off home for the summer soon, so am unsubscribing
Thanks for some great advice and occasional humour :-)
See you all in september!

If anyone is going to be in the Sussex (UK!) area, feel free to give 
me a ring on 01903 260240, and maybe we could meet!

Cheers
Tricky

---------------------------------------------------------------------
Richard Lucking                      
phone:(0161) 224 6641 (Term)          email:bu063@ist2.co.umist.ac.uk 
                      (Flat 48)     
    Life is a Sexually Transmitted Disease, invariably fatal
Disclaimer: All opinions are my own, or so I've been told....
=====================================================================

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Jun 95 09:40:32 PDT
From: brabyn@skivs.ski.org (John Brabyn)
Subject: Re: My sick 88 Range Rover

Thanks for keeping us posted on this Mark. Did you notice any reduction in
cooling capability (ie higher than normal temps??)

Cheers

John

John Brabyn
89RR

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Jun 95 09:48:35 PDT
From: brabyn@skivs.ski.org (John Brabyn)
Subject: Re:  RR heated windshields

I've had the same positive experience with the heated windshield -- great in ice and 
snow. I have also tried it for normal defrosting, and lo and behold it clears 
the windshield in seconds, much faster than the demisting fan. As far as 
cost benefit goes, I'm not sure it's worth the extra $300 though! Probably 
depends on your local climate.

Cheers

John

John Brabyn
89RR

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Jun 1995 17:54:59 +0059 (BST)
From: Charlie Wright <cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: RR 01

I got those messages out of order. Excellent to hear some SE's are seeing 
the dirtier side of life!  Get those photos developed so someone can get 
'em online.

Charlie

C. R. Wright                                    Dept. of Genetics
+44 (0)1223 333970 telephone                    Univ. of Cambridge
+44 (0)1223 333992 telefax                      Downing Street, Cambs.
cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk                        CB2 3EH, England

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Jun 95 10:03:28 PDT
From: brabyn@skivs.ski.org (John Brabyn)
Subject: Re: Temperature Sending Unit Success

I had a problem a couple of years ago with the temp gauge sending unit on my
89RR. It would suddenly fly off the deep end, making me think something nasty
had happened to the engine. Fortunately, only Lucas had happened to it,
and a new sender fixed the problem, although the new one seems to have 
a different "personality" than the old one. For some reason the sender is
fearfully expensive, about $50. Before replacing it you could do a couple of
things like removing it and checking it in hot water with a meter. Also
even before removing it, check the voltage applied to it; it should be abpout
10 volts, from a voltage regulator in the instrument binnacle (part of the
so-called multifunction unit) that also supplies a regulated voltage for the 
tachometer. If the tach is also on the blink, suspect this. 

However, overall, the most likely problem os the sender itself, as is invariably
the case whenever a light comes on or a gauge reads abnormal on a Rover.

Keep us posted

Cheers

John Brabyn
89RR

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Jun 95 12:05:32 -0700
From: "TeriAnn Wakeman"  <twakeman@apple.com>
Subject: 109 brake question

HELP HELP HELP

SUBJECT:
109 2.25L engine front brakes

SITUATION:
I removed my front brake backplates from my car without noting which side was 
which for cleaning and painting  while the swivel pins were being rebuilt.  I 
went to put them back on last night and discovered that the factory manual not 
only doesn't tell you which side which back plate goes on but none of the 
drawings show the 109 front brake backplate in such a way as you can guess which
side its on.

QUESTION:
How does one determine which side a front 109 brake plate goes on.

The two plates are mirror images of each other.

My guess is that the front brake adjuster sits near the top of the back plate 
and the rear adjuster fits fits low on the back plate.

Can anyone near a 109 run out & verify this for me?  I would love to put the 
back plates on tonight.

Thanks!

TeriAnn Wakeman              .sig closed for remodeling
twakeman@apple.com         
              
                         
                       

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Jun 1995 17:32:22 -0500
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Camel Trophy Daily Log

[I've been trying to send this for 18,no 24 hours now...on Sunday, my 
service provider said that the system would be down "for a couple of hours" 
while they made "upgrades".  Yeah...right...like putting new string between 
the two tin cans....]

"Lions and tigers and bears, oh my...."  This weekend, a triple threat 
greeted the Camel Trophy expedition:  A volcano blew up to the south of 
them, a hurricane (the earliest on record, BTW) blew up to the north and 
guerrillas were all around.

Saturday, June 3rd - When we last saw the Camel Trophy team, they were 
departing Izabal for a 48 hour navigation task; the goal was the town of 
Sanat Rosa, about 30 km from the Belize border.  Rather that traveling en 
masse, the expedition had once again broken into groups of three to four 
vehicles, and were given the choice of what route to take to the 
destination.  One group, arriving near dusk at an isolated village, 
Bartolomei de las Cruces, inquired about campsites nearby.  The police chief 
informed them that Guatemalan guerrillas were everywhere outside of town and 
that travel would be dangerous.

Santa Rosa was to be the jumping off point for "the sting in the tail" - a 
two plus day slog through to Belize.  Up until now, it has been one of the 
hottest and driest springs on record; a drought may well have sealed the 
fate of the Maya centuries ago [see sidebar], but rains from tropical storm 
Allison had drenched the area and turned the tracks from Santa Rosa into 
quagmires. Meanwhile, temperatures in Xunatunich, the finish, reached 48 C 
on Saturday.  (Really??  Hey, that's what the press release said!)

Sunday, June 4th - The promised mud finally materialized as the 33 vehicles 
departed Santa Rosa for Belize: it took five hours to cover just 10 km.  The 
tracks through the jungle criss-crossed the frontier many times; however, 
the only sign of habitation was a temporary camp.  There, one family was 
quite surprised by the appearance of the convoy on the move.  By sundown, 
the team had camped near the border town of Arenal.  Monday was to be the 
final day on the road (so to speak) before the final set of special tasks at 
the finish.  There, the second group special task will serve as a warm-up to 
the 11 individual special task events that will decide the winner.

[Sidebar] Researchers think that they have finally solved the mystery of the 
decilne of the Maya, a civilization that fell into ruin between 750 and 900 
AD.  Population booms and subsequent migrations, constant border wars and 
environmental stress have all been considered as possible causes, but by 
analyzing 15' long cores from the bottom of Lake Chichancanab that were 
deposited over the last 9,000 years, scientists think they now have the answer.

Previously, it was impossible to tell if alterations to the environment were 
caused by climate or people.  By analyzing these sediments (specifically, a 
ratio of gypsum to calcite), researchers have determined that the period 
between 800 and 1000 AD was the driest in the past 7,200 years.  With the 
landscapes around the Mayan cities deforested by an increasing population 
and pressures from nearby civilizations, a two century drought exacerbated 
an already perilous situation.

      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |       Rover Owners' Association of Virginia         |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 804-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    804-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 804-622-7056     |
      *-----------------------------------------------------*

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Jun 1995 22:36:24 +0059 (BST)
From: Charlie Wright <cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: 109 brake question

I can tell you (without having a chance to look at mine until I get home) 
that the front brakes on a 109 are twin leading shoes. That is, the 
rotation INCREASES braking force in the forward direction (as opposed to 
the rear brakes, where one shoe leads and one shoe trails). Based on that 
fact, the locations you are guessing for the adjusters sound correct... 
and if you get them wrong, you can tell by the way the shoes fit.... twin 
trailing brakes would only work well in reverse.

Based on this fact and some recollections of the last time I had the 
front brakes off myself:

Looking at the left front wheel (so that it rotates anti-clockwise when 
going forward), the shoes would have to mounted so that the front shoe 
pivoted at the bottom and the rear shoe at the top.  That would mean 
front cylinder at the top, rear cylinder at the bottom.

             Wheel cylinder (for front shoe)
              |
          //-{=]  o <-pivot point
 Front   //       \\
 Shoe->  ||   O   || <- Rear Shoe    [Looking at front left wheel/backplate]
         \\       //
          o  [=}-//
              |
   |         Wheel cylinder (for rear shoe)
Rotation of road wheel.
    \
     '->

This should give you enough reference points to get them on the right way 
(or figure out if you have it wrong.)

Charlie

C. R. Wright                                    Dept. of Genetics
+44 (0)1223 333970 telephone                    Univ. of Cambridge
+44 (0)1223 333992 telefax                      Downing Street, Cambs.
cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk                        CB2 3EH, England

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Jun 1995 21:17:15 -0700
From: jjbpears@ix.netcom.com (Jeremy Bartlett)
Subject: Old Single Wiper Motor Resoration

I recall someone recently posting an extended description of 
restoration/work on the old single wiper motors (on the LRO Digest).  In 
my obviously finite wisdom I managed to delete the file.  Can anyone 
repost this or tell me how to access any archived information.

Dim wits of the world appreciate your assistance.

Thanks,

Jeremy Bartlett
jjbpears@ix.netcom.com

------------------------------

From: LANDROVER@delphi.com
Date: Wed, 07 Jun 1995 01:03:59 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Fowarded message

I'm fowarding this for Robert Davis. He has been having some mail problems.
Cheers
Mike
---------------------forwarded message---------------------------------
Date: Tue, 06 Jun 1995 16:57:32 -0400 (EDT)
From: robdav@sunshine.vab.unisysgsg.com (Robert Davis)
Subject: One for the Net (can't get through)

There is an outfit that is advertising in Hemmings called "Big Sky Rovers"
that  is selling parts from Rovers that have trashed by the Brit/NATO
bases up in Canada (Wainwright).  I made the mistake of ordering from
them with disastrous results.  The owner (no names mentioned) doesn't
know a distributor from a diesel distribution pump
and does not care to know the difference!
Location: Great Falls Montana.
I had to pay $723 to receive a bunch of junk that belongs in a land fill.
I got gas tanks with bullet holes and roll bars that were bent, twisted,
and flattened.
The vehicles that the so called parts were salvaged from have been
destroyed.  Generally run over by tanks.   Used as targets for artillery
practice, and then cut up to be sold as scrap.
Please everyone be very careful !!
R&D

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 7 Jun 1994 00:33:13 -0500
From: kgb@tigger.cc.uic.edu (Ken Berliner)
Subject: Transfer Case

I gave my '89 RR to a mechanic friend of mine so that he could tow his boat
to the water.  Well, of all things, he gave it back to me with a laundry
list of problems (not his doing, just his finding).  He says that my
transfer case chain is loose.  We knew the car made a thump when shifting
(the AT) from D -> R.  But while driving, the car makes a whine (when the
drivetrain is engaged) which he says is the loose chain in the transfer
case.  Since neither of us has seen the inside of the RR transfer case, I
WOULD LIKE TO ASK YOU KNOWLEDGEABLE FRIENDLY PEOPLE FOR HELP.  Can I expect
any surprises when I take down my transfer case?  When I open it up, will I
have to replace the gears or can I change the chain without doing that.  Is
there a replacement chain (or other parts) from another car like an AMC
Jeep or a Ford truck?  I drive my car every day to work... what parts
should I have ready to complete this job (ie. any seals I should know
about) I do have the owners shop manual, but it does not tell all (at least
not like you people do.)

I appreciate the help.  There will be more questions posted under different
subject headings.  Feel free to skip them if you are not interested in
helping people like myself.

Quote of the day, "If I could afford to fix the RR, then would I be fixing
it myself?"  Unlike many of you, I do not fix my car for the love of it
(although it is fun) I do it because I'm flat broke!

kgb

*************************************************************************
Reachable at
E-mail: kgb@uic.edu
WWW: http://www.uic.edu/~kgb/                   <- Whoa! I'm on the web
*************************************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 7 Jun 1994 00:33:30 -0500
From: kgb@uic.edu (Ken Berliner)
Subject: Frozen brake calipers

This friend - Andy - claims that it is my romps through mud and high water
that is causing the frozen calipers on my '89 RR.  I argue that it seems
kind of strange that a car designed specifically for that should die after
a brief stroll through mud.  Anyway, any suggestions as to what parts I
should order prior to unfreezing my brakes.  This could take all day, and I
don't want my RR to spend a single night on the vertical hotel.

Again, your input is valued.

kgb

*************************************************************************
Reachable at
E-mail: kgb@uic.edu
WWW: http://www.uic.edu/~kgb/                   <- Whoa! I'm on the web
*************************************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 7 Jun 1994 00:33:40 -0500
From: kgb@uic.edu (Ken Berliner)
Subject: Temp sending units

Are there 2 temp sending units?  One to the gauge and one to the computer?
Is the computer seeing the same eroneous reading the gauge is showing?

kgb

*************************************************************************
Reachable at
E-mail: kgb@uic.edu
WWW: http://www.uic.edu/~kgb/                   <- Whoa! I'm on the web
*************************************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 7 Jun 1994 00:33:24 -0500
From: kgb@uic.edu (Ken Berliner)
Subject: Steering gear box

On my '89 RR I have power steering (PS) fluid leaking down on to my left
front control arm.  Not a problem, but I am destroying my bushings there on
a monthly basis.  I thought the leak came from the bottom of the PS fluid
resevoir.  My friend (let's just call him Andy for arguments sake), so
"Andy" suggested that it was in fact my PS gear box which was leaking and
he thinks I have to open it up and put in new seals.  Anyone seen this
problem on a late 80's RR, where was your leak and how did you fix it? (as
you can see, unlike many ship fitters out there, I don't want to start a
job unless I know what I'm getting into.  (I need my car to get to work
every day).

Your help is appreciated

kgb

*************************************************************************
Reachable at
E-mail: kgb@uic.edu
WWW: http://www.uic.edu/~kgb/                   <- Whoa! I'm on the web
*************************************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 7 Jun 1994 00:33:19 -0500
From: kgb@uic.edu (Ken Berliner)
Subject: Frame holes

My friend also noticed that the frame has some holes in it used to hold the
RR during shipping.  He proposes that someone attached the hooks too
enthusiastically and tore/bent the frame slightly.  He suggests that if
there are many people like me out there with torn frames (due to impropper
shipping), then maybe we can try to convince Land Rover (or the responsible
party) to give us new frames.  Of course common sense would dictate that
something like that would have been discovered already, so I can only
conclude that I am shit out of luck.

Doesn't hurt to ask however.

kgb

*************************************************************************
Reachable at
E-mail: kgb@uic.edu
WWW: http://www.uic.edu/~kgb/                   <- Whoa! I'm on the web
*************************************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 7 Jun 1994 00:33:35 -0500
From: kgb@uic.edu (Ken Berliner)
Subject: 89 RR for sale :)

Just kidding, I could never part with my RR.  Actually, my friend likes
mine so much, he's wondering if any of you might be selling a LR or RR out
here in the northern midwestern states. (We're in Chicago).

kgb

*************************************************************************
Reachable at
E-mail: kgb@uic.edu
WWW: http://www.uic.edu/~kgb/                   <- Whoa! I'm on the web
*************************************************************************

------------------------------

From: root@ocs.cpsg.com.au
Subject: Re: Steering gear box
Date: Wed, 7 Jun 95 15:54:55 EST

When my parents bought their 89 110, it's Power steering box was leaking, 
and they found out that it was cheaper to get a change over box, than to 
put knew seals in it, so that might be the quickest, and cheapest way to go.

--
==============================================================================
Craig Murray                                    |       1955 Series 1 86"
LROC of Victoria Australia                      |       2.25 diesel 
LROC of Gippsland Victoria Australia            |       My car is constipated,
email: craigp@ocs.cpsg.com.au                   |       It has not passed a 
                                                |       thing all day!!

------------------------------

From: Craig Murray <craigp@ocs.cpsg.com.au>
Subject: Re: Forwarded message
Date: Wed, 7 Jun 95 16:11:10 EST

> The owner (no names mentioned) doesn't
> know a distributor from a diesel distribution pump
> and does not care to know the difference!

This could be a good opportunity to pick up a very cheap distributor pump!!!!

--
==============================================================================
Craig Murray                                    |       1955 Series 1 86"
LROC of Victoria Australia                      |       2.25 diesel 
LROC of Gippsland Victoria Australia            |       My car is constipated,
email: craigp@ocs.cpsg.com.au                   |       It has not passed a 
                                                |       thing all day!!

------------------------------

  END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST 
 Input:  messages 28 lines 1205 [forwarded 37 whitespace 299]
 Output: lines 1045 [content 606  forwarded 37 (cut  0) whitespace 297]



    
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