Land Rover Owner Message Digest Contents

[ First Message Last | Table of Contents | <- Digest -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

Send Submissions Land-Rover-Owner@Land-Rover.Team.Net

Date: Mon, 5 Jun 1995 12:00:05 +0400 (EET-DST)
From: "LAURA SUURN[KKI, ML{ STA1, P. 511 6673" <LSUURNAKKI@tne01.tele.nokia.fi>
Subject: www-places?

Sorry if this is not the right place, but i am looking for info on www places
of 4-wheel-drive, off-road etc. Any info you might have would be nice. I am
searching for info on buying a 4X4, fixing it and using it. I am also
considering doing a www page for a local off-road club. (Local is near
Helsinki, Finland.)

Thank you for any information you might send
Laura (laura.suurnakki@ntc.nokia.com)

------------------------------

From: Easton Trevor <TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA>
Subject: "GEN" Parts
Date: Mon, 05 Jun 95 08:06:00 DST

Mike Slade wrote
>" I specifically asked if these were 'genuine'
parts, I was assured that they were and patiently waited for my order."
>" they were from a company called Hardy Spicer"

Genuine parts come from many sub contractors to create a whole Land Rover 
and spares don't always come in a Land Rover box. In some cases the 
aftermarket wholesale supplier will provide the same part in either a "plain 
brown wrapper" or a Land Rover Genuine parts box at additional cost. Which 
package would you rather have?

This is the reason to find and keep a reliable supplier, especially if using 
mail order. Because of the popularity of Land Rover in out of the way places 
there are many obscure third world manufacturers producing parts of dubious 
merit which are sold at prices "too good to miss". These parts find their 
way into the aftermarket supply chain and are often sold as genuine (boxes 
are cheap to copy too) and it isn't until the parts fail that the final 
customer learns the truth.
Remember Caveat Emptor and find a faithful mechanic/parts man

Trevor Easton 1962 SWB SW "Miss Golightly" (See you at Owls Head)

------------------------------

From: "David McKain" <MCKAIN@faculty.coe.wvu.edu>
Date:          Mon, 5 Jun 1995 08:49:30 EDT
Subject:       Sacraficial Landie

Picked up a 1964 SIIa yesterday that had been sitting in a shed since 
1977. Too bad the previous owners had used it as a battering ram of 
sorts. Both of the front fenders were caved in and the bumper had 
seen much better days. It also had a nice rip down the passenger side 
so much of the lower body was unuseable. In addition, both front 
springs were broken and the front axle had eaten away the engine 
pully. The good news is that the engine only has 30,000 miles on it 
and the frame has only surface rust. The last time this vehicle was 
legal was back in 1977. Sorry to say that the vehicle is being parted 
out. Three of us went in on the deal. One of us gets the frame, I get 
the tropical roof (complete with bullet hole, this is WV of course), 
rear door, and front door uppers, and another gets the radiator, 
heater (Kodiak  MkIII), and firewall. In addition, the dual water 
temp/ oil pressure gauge will fit nicely into my 1966. The 16" rims 
will go into a collection as well as the drivetrain and other various 
sundries. A pretty good deal for $700. 
In addition to this LR, I have located over a dozen LR hulks in 
various stages of neglect around the rest of WV. Wish I had the cash 
to stockpile them but I guess they will wait a while longer. Just 
thought this might be of interest.

Take care,
seems to work

David McKain
1966 SIIa Petrol
mckain@faculty.coe.wvu.edu
(304) 599-0120
Morgantown, WV
USA                     

------------------------------

From: Russell Burns <burns@cisco.com>
Subject: Re: Temperature Sending Unit Success
Date: Mon, 5 Jun 95 6:46:04 PDT

I have noticed that both my Rovers, D-90 R-Rover will display
a hotter temp for the first 10-15 minutes, then run cooler. I
attribute this to some hysterises in the thermastat. I have
been assuming that the engine heats up quicker than the thermostat
can react.> 
Does the gauge peg on the cool side, or just registor cooler.

Russ Burns

> To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net
> Did your sending unit work at all prior to replacement?  My 87 RR temp gauge
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 14 lines)]
> Andrew 
> Dayton, Oh

------------------------------

From: Sanna@aol.com
Date: Mon, 5 Jun 1995 10:09:47 -0400
Subject: Re: turn signal arm wheel 

Tim - If you can't find a wheel, let me know.  I think I have a whole turn
signal unit buried in my box of spares.  It would take some looking.  No
promises. - Tony

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Jun 1995 07:28:36 -0700
From: gpool@pacific.pacific.net (Granville B. Pool)
Subject: Re: winches!

>Now for the purpose of my post for 2day. I have just purchased a new 
>tractor battery for my RR, and in doing so i chatted to a few people and 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 12 lines)]
>bullet proof, so soon in a new cradle and with a little more class ,
> the previously Toyota serving spool may find itself hauling my RR
>about. That is unless anyone can suggest reasons not to use it.......

Brian,

I hadn't heard of a Thomas winch before reading your message but do know
something about the Ramsey PTO winch.  I think Ramseys are good winches,
among the best.  But here's what I found out about parts:  I got an old
Land-Rover which was equipped with a Ramsey 8,000 lb. PTO winch.  The winch
was disconnected and had the cable removed.  It did not seem to anxious to
turn, so I took it apart.  Due to a leaky seal, it had lost most of its oil
and then been used hard.  The teeth on the brass worm wheel gear (bull gear)
were pretty chewed up on the edge.  So I got ahold of Berens Associates in
the Bay Area which supplies parts for most brands of winches, at
800-540-2858.  Well, they can get parts but they ain't cheap.  The parts I
needed would have cost about $300 and that by getting the thrust bearings at
a local bearing house; it I'd have gotten them from Berens too, it would
have been well over $300.  $185 or some such just for the one gear!  Only
about $500 for a brand new Ramsy PTO winch (not including any of the
driveline, which I can reuse).

I have put the Ramsey winch in a box and will let it mellow awhile and think
about this.  Meanwhile, I installed a two-speed 6,000/12,000# Tensen TX-2
electric winch on my Land-Rover and am pretty happy with it (now available
in "improved" form, under the brand name Megawinch).  I like a PTO winch and
still may rebuild the Ramsey one of these days.  Maybe I can find a cheaper
parts source.  But it could be worse.  It could have been a Koenig.  Good
winches, I think, but parts are a problem.

Cheers,

Granville B. Pool, Redwood Valley, CA
<gpool@pacific.pacific.net>
(707)485-7220 (home)   (707)463-4265 (work)
'73 Land-Rover 88, more LRs, Austin Champ, BMW 3.0si, Peugeot 505 Turbo...

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Jun 95 10:33:33 -0700
From: "TeriAnn Wakeman"  <twakeman@apple.com>
Subject: Back under the Rover

In message <199506040125.UAA11431@butler.uk.stratus.com> Richard Wegner writes:

; Tip for Dave Brown and others replacing tie rod ends, don't forget to put
; anti-seize compound on the threads of the new tie rod before putting it
; into the center rod. That way if you have to take it apart again it will be
; a breeze, or you will make it easier for the next owner.
; 
; Later.......Richard

Richard,  Thanks for the tip.  I'm at the stage on my front swivel pin rebuild 
where its time to put new boots on the tie rod ends and connect them to the drop
arms.  I'll coat the tapered ends with antisize per your suggestion.  

Most Excellent timing!

For those who were not tuned in at the begining of the episode:

I came back from a Land Rover run intermittiently dragging a front brake shoe 
and with a very slow brake fluid leak.  Upon inspection, I found:

- greasy front brake shoes,
- About 1/2 inch vertical play on the front left wheel.  I had been avoiding a 
swivel pin rebuild but the time had come..
- a slight leak on one of the wheel cylinders
- water in the front axle housing. Threads stripped on the front breather and 
the mud was a little deep in places on the last run.
- cracked front rubber brake hoses
- The rust on the front right brake line looked a little deep

So in a fit of repair fever and a little ship fitters disease, the front swivel 
balls came off along with all the brake lines on the 109 (Some may remember that
I converted my 109's brakes to duel power brakes, but put off doing the brake 
lines).

Scotty rebuilt the swivel pins for me and I got them back and installed the 
front balls last night.  The brake back plates have a fresh coat of black paint,
and hopefully new wheel cylinders and a new tube between the duel wheel 
cylinders will go on the back plates tonight.  If there is enough light maybe 
the back plate & front stub axles will go on tonight too.  

I am putting on a gurling pressure valve (that 'H' shaped casting that goes on 
duel brake systems to block off any brake system that fails.  Rover started 
using one after they stopped importing LRs to the US).  I'm having custom 
hydrolic tubes make up at my local hose shop.  Hopefull the first group of tubes
should be ready by mid week so I can build enough of the system to measure the 
lengths for the front tubes.

I will be replacing the axle breathers with Land Rover raised axle breathers.

While everything was appart, I went ahead and put new silver hammertone paint on
the oil filler cap, valve cover breather, air filter and the air cleaner elbow 
fitting to the carb (black).

And changed the oil & filter, and adjusted the valves...

What I haven't got around to, is unpacking the camping gear from the last 
outing.  Guess I'll have to take her out & test drive the car after she gets 
back on the road.  The camping gear will come in handy for the test drive.

TeriAnn Wakeman              .sig closed for remodeling
twakeman@apple.com         
              
                         
                       

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 05 Jun 95 16:36:00 EST
From: lenagham@bachman.com
Subject: Re[2]: RR Defroster

     The A/C and heater combination on the 'old' Range Rovers are not very 
     sophisticated systems! Things improved greatly when they put a proper 
     HVAC system in the vehicle when they redesigned the dash for the LWB 
     version.
     
     I have an 87 RR whose system is even cruder than the 89's. The A/C 
     system is essentially an add on to the standard heating system and 
     shares some controls. When the A/C is on - the fan switch operates the 
     A/C fans blowing air through the vents only. When the A/C is off - the 
     fan switch operates the heater fan blowing air to the floor and or 
     screen. The vent open/close control does allow outside air to flow 
     through the vents but not very efficiently, you could try cleaning the 
     filters in the cowl but things don't improve very much. When you 
     switch the A/C on the outside air flow should be shut off since the 
     A/C works in recirc mode only.
     
     The defroster/defogger control directs air to the windscreen but this 
     air is not dehumidified, so if the air is moist then this can be a 
     real problem. Most car systems have the heater/defrost integrated with 
     the A/C so that turning the A/C on will dehumidify the air in the car 
     thus clearing the screen much faster. This is what Rover attempted to 
     do with that second position on the function switch (added in the 89 
     model year) - it causes the A/C to be switched on and directs 
     dehumidified air to wherever you have the floor /screen switch set.
     
     For max defrosting you should have the vent switch set to closed. The 
     floor/screen switch to screen, the function switch to the second 
     position and the fan to max.
     

------------------------------

From: JCassidyiv@aol.com
Date: Mon, 5 Jun 1995 18:00:54 -0400
Subject: Range Rover Wood

Just got a 1987 Range Rover and I need to restore the wood in the door
panels.  What's the easiet way to remove these for refinishing?
                   Cheers,   John Cassidy
1966 IIA 88
1987 Range Rover
1995 Dicovery

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 5 Jun 1994 21:28:48 -0500
From: kgb@tigger.cc.uic.edu (Ken Berliner)
Subject: Fogs and temp sending units

>Oh yes, and I forgot to say that my '89's windshield leaks water in the
>center...  and I don't live in the desert.  In a downpour I have this nagging
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
>soak up the drips also comes in handy to wipe the surface of my Solihul fog
>machine. - Tony

Tony good fix!  The way I see it, you can buy a lot of dish towels for the
money you would spend on the $300 heated front windshield

>From: NADdMD@aol.com
>I am presently enjoying the satisfaction of having a relative idea of engine
>coolant temperature.

Isn't it always the case, but just at the end of a thread, that's when you
get a problem.  I don't want to say "hey everyone, repeat what you just
said," but is there some inexpensive american made substitute for the temp
sensor in the 89 RR.  Mine is reading a really low temp, but the engine
seems to be warming up rather nicely... pleanty of coolant too.  Sounds
like this is a common problem too.

kgb

*************************************************************************
Reachable at
E-mail: kgb@uic.edu
WWW: http://www.uic.edu/~kgb/                   <- Whoa! I'm on the web
*************************************************************************

------------------------------

Subject: Robin Is back
From: rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (Robin Craig)
Date: Mon, 05 Jun 95 21:02:56 -0500

Sorry for my absence, I'm now back on line on a regular basis.

Check you mail boxes for some well over due replies to mail

Rgeards

Robin Craig

--
Robin Craig, rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Ottawa, Ont. |  Ottawa Valley Land Rovers

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 05 Jun 1995 23:32:48 -0400
From: Andrew Steele <ad158@DAYTON.WRIGHT.EDU>
Subject: Re: Range Rover Wood

I pried mine out about two weeks ago with a car key.  Probably it should be
done with a wider, flat blade screwdriver.  They are a friction fit only, and
the surrounding molding easily pried away for me with no damage.

Incidently, I used teak? oil from Scan, which seems to be working very well. 
I used a ery heavy application w/ lots of rubbing as the wood trim had not
been oiled for several years.

Remember, please no tea spills on the wood trim, would hate to get a stain.....

Andrew
Dayton, OH
87 RR and new to my garage, a non running 73 Series III.

------------------------------

From: lro@arcadiax1.arcadia.polimi.it
Subject: back to the list....:)
Date: Tue, 6 Jun 1995 08:40:15 +0100 (GMT+0100)

I made it back to the list, at last........
I have installed sendmail today and, miracle!, I can send messages to 
team.net again, after six months....:)

I am currently staying in Cambridge, MA until the end of the month, and I 
miss my SIII 88, who is in Milan, alone....

I've seen some beautiful 88s around here (I'm staying near the Harvard 
Yard, near Irving Street). I'd like to meet the owners of these 88s, if 
they're on the list, and maybe to go for a little off-roading with them. 
:))))) (I promise to take them off-road with Nessie, if they ever come to 
Italy). :))))

Ludo
ludo@shore.net

------------------------------

  END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST 
 Input:  messages 12 lines 523 [forwarded 40 whitespace 123]
 Output: lines 462 [content 267  forwarded 20 (cut  20) whitespace 118]



    
Back
	
    
Forward
	


	
    

        
  
	



Photos & text Copyright 1990-2011
	Bill Caloccia, All rights reserved. 

Digest Messages Copyright 1990-2011 by the original poster or/and
	Bill Caloccia,
	All rights reserved.