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Date: 02 Jun 95 04:09:53 EDT
From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com>
Subject: ARC National Rally

Back from the Rally and still alive...

> who brought with them an ample supply of German Beer, cold to keep it in, and
> some plum liquor (25% ABV), which was wicked sweet.

.... wuzzat? (*hick*)

>rock wall or major boulder).  Word has it the only incident in the RTV was
>a D90 driver who rear-ended a lightwieght while convoying to the next section.
>Unfortunately, the military hitch took out the D90's radiator.

Two more accidents to be reported, one at the Comp Safari (spectacular but
not tragic), the other one on a public road (not-so-nice). First, a competition
Range Rover rolled and landed on the drivers side - driver came crawling out
through the windscreen that had popped out. The car lost a lot of petrol
while lying on its side, so when the rig was finally back on its wheels
and drove off (that's right!) the marshals disposed of the gasoline by setting
fire to it and flaming it off. There was a rush of spectators towards the site
when they saw black smoke billowing from the pit, and some were *disappointed*
that it was *only* petrol being burnt and not a car on fire - go figure.
The other incident, a Discovery coming from one of the quarries entered a
public road at a T-intersection and either overlooked a (normal) car that was
coming or didn't notice the yield-sign... anyway, the passenger car landed on
its roof in a ditch, and when I drove past the still fresh scene of the
accident the occupants of the passenger car, a couple and a child, where
sitting wrapped in quilts by the roadside taken care of by the police. Not a
nice ending to a Bank Holiday outing.

Enough gore. All in all it was a very nice event, at least for those who
escaped injuries and hangovers...

Stefan
<Stefan R. Jacob, 100043.2400@CompuServe.com>

------------------------------

From: Solihul@aol.com
Date: Fri, 2 Jun 1995 06:04:43 -0400
Subject: temp guage woes

jssa writes in part, "temp guage reads in the low end of redxnot excessively
hot". I hAd same prob with my S3 and found that a ground wire on the knurled
nut securing the instrument to its place was loose. Tightened the nut and now
its fine. Hope this helps. Cheers, John Dillingham, Woodstock, Ga

------------------------------

From: "Steve Methley" <sgm@hplb.hpl.hp.com>
Date: Fri, 2 Jun 1995 11:04:54 +0100
Subject: Re: Stromberg to SU Conz on V8??

Me>..You'll get 20mpg from either set...

Daryl>Tell us How.  The best I've ever gotten from my stage 1 is 15-16.

Well, there's nothing much to tell.  Just RTFM was all I did.
Regularly got 20mpg from a V8 Lightweight on SU's and a 2 door Rangey
on Z-S's.  There's no point tuning the carbs unless the ignition is
absolutely perfect however.  Once set the carbs dont drift out of
tune-it's an old wives' tale - the ignition does drift however due to
points wear and the way the vacuum advance operates.  Ie check timing
and dwell regulary.  Dirty air filters will send the mpg plummeting
downwards quite alarmingly.

Clearly your mileage does vary!

Cheers,
Steve.

------------------------------

From: Brian Neill Tiedemann <s914440@minyos.xx.rmit.EDU.AU>
Subject: u-joint??
Date: Fri, 2 Jun 1995 20:13:15 +1000 (EST)

Hi all,
pardon my ignorance..... what's a U-joint

bill wrote 2 days ago:
"pinch bolts on U-joint prior to steering relay"

My 77 RR has no Relay box as per land croozer 45, and i can't picture a 
U-joint anywhere!? Steering force is straight from drop arm via ball 
joint to tie rod, to rod end on LH swivel housing (RHD truk), then two 
more rod ends on the track rod transmit same to RH swivel housing. I have 
followed the discussion of wandering rangies with interest, as mine has 
similar steering play. I have good (new) bushings all round, and all rod 
ends seem OK (replaced some months ago). I had decided to blame the drop 
arm vertical movement and ball joint, as tightening the BIG nut makes a 
world of difference, and the only lubricant in the ball joint is Fe2O3.
I bought a rebuild kit from LR a while ago but so far it remains a new kit...
If there is some other possible source of my friendly randomness of 
steering, please suggest....?(Other than my Super Swampers that is!)

thanks

Leaks but I luv it...
77 RR
Brian Tiedemann (s914440@minyos.xx.rmit.edu.au)

                                        _______
                                       / /  |  \___
                                       \_ ^ ___ ^ _:   >>><<<
                                         {*}   {*}
                                     ..........................||||
                ..................../
.............../                     (Still 2WD *dammit*)

------------------------------

Date: 02 Jun 95 06:46:57 EDT
From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com>
Subject: Re: Drag link on an 88

David Brown narrowly escapes death ...

> My question is this: Is the drag link supposed to have "threads" to help
> hold the tie rod end? Or is it supposed to be smooth? Mine is basically
> smooth, (worn?) so I wondered if I need to replace this???

Yeah, not an uncommon problem - and a very dangerous one. What happens is
this: The tie rod/track rod/drag link (pick your choice) has opposite
threads on either end, meaning that one tie rod end/ball joint/<ad naus.>
is right-threaded, while the other must be left-threaded. In the life of
every Land Rover comes the moment when, at the hands of an (obviously
incompetent) PO, the rod ends are being replaced, and eiter they are rusted
solid in the rod and the entire thread is stripped out by the forcible
removal, or the PO gets two rod ends of a kind (maybe 2nd hand) and at least
one of the ends gets cross-threaded when he bungs the thing back in. This
process may repeat it self a couple of times with subsequent POs, and the
result is what you got on your 88".
DON'T MOVE YOUR CAR until you got a NEW tie rod in there!!

Stefan
<Stefan R. Jacob, 100043.2400@CompuServe.com>

------------------------------

From: Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: Stromberg to SU Conz on V8??
Date: Fri, 2 Jun 95 12:17:40 BST

Er,is Daryll's Stage One lower geared than a Range Rover,
though,Steve? And heavier than your Lightweight.
Random thoughts........

Cheers
Mike Rooth

------------------------------

Date: 02 Jun 95 07:16:05 EDT
From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com>
Subject: Volcano erupts in Guatemala/Trophy?

I just picked up a news flash on dpa-online that apparently a volcano
has erupted violently close to Guatemala City. Would/could this have
any consequences for the Camel Trophy that just about now should be
passing through Guatemala?

Stefan
<Stefan R. Jacob, 100043,2400@CompuServe.com>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Jun 95 06:44 EST
From: Paul Sturm <0003891595@mcimail.com>
Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

-- [ From: Paul Sturm * EMC.Ver #2.05 ] --

You can perhaps help me unsubscribe to LRO Daily Digest. I've been sending
regular unsubscribe messages as per the instructions for a couple of weeks--
but without success even though I get a message confirmation.

The problem could be that I'm receiving the material via a forward command
from another mailbox. The address there is psturm@ilhawaii.net. If you
could strike my name (regardless of the address), I'd appreciate it. 

I am the happy owner of a 1962 Series II. But at the moment I'm on the road,
and receiving long e-mail is very expensive.

Regards.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 02 Jun 1995 08:24:27 -0500 (EST)
From: Custer wore an ARROW shirt <RMOILE@unca.edu>
Subject: Feedback needed.....

 I am thinking about purchasing a 1968 SIIa. The vehicle will be my primary
means of transportation, so I need something fairly dependable. I drive roughly
7 miles per day, 11,000 miles per year.

 Would the SIIa be a good idea? I saw some newer (mid 80's) Rovers that I liked,
but none of them caught my eye like the SIIa did.

 Any feedback would be welcome. Thank you (in advance)!

rick miale
unc asheville

------------------------------

Date: 02 Jun 95 08:56:29 EDT
From: Pierce Reid <PREID@csi.compuserve.com>
Subject: Gaiters for late RR fit D90?

Can anyone tell me if a set of gaiters for a newer Range Rover will fit a D90?
One of our fellow list members has a set available that I would like to purchase
for my D90, but I need to know if they will fit.

TIA and cheers, 

R. Pierce Reid

------------------------------

From: "Steve Methley" <sgm@hplb.hpl.hp.com>
Date: Fri, 2 Jun 1995 14:17:37 +0100
Subject: Re: Stromberg to SU Conz on V8??

Mike:

>Er,is Daryll's Stage One lower geared than a Range Rover,
>though,Steve? And heavier than your Lightweight.
>Random thoughts........

Er, sure Mike.  There's lots of other factors too.  I drove/drive both
my vehicles at 80mph down the M4 and was convinced that at that speed
nothing much bar wind resistance made much difference.  The RR is
stock whilst the Lightweight (yes they are _heavier_ than a civvy SWB)
was on 750 SATs with RR diffs.  Lots of stop-start stuff and cold
running is going to affect things too, also the auto box RR's are
worse on mpg, 15 ish.....it goes on...Wonder if I'm heavier than Daryll?
--
Best Regards,
Steve.

------------------------------

From: Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: Feedback needed.....
Date: Fri, 2 Jun 95 14:15:24 BST

FWIW,my daily mileage is around fifteen.I've got a '70
11A SWB 2.25 diesel,which nominally,at any rate,is
*supposed* to be less reliable than the 2.25 petrol.
Its the only vehicle I own.
During the eight years I've had it,the reliability
factor has been good,and it wasnt in particularly
good nick when I got it.A dropped valve about a year
into ownership put it off the raod for a good while,
but most of the good while was my own fault for
dithering about trying to find a replacement engine,
when all it needed was the current engine repairing.
Most of the problems have been "engine orientated",
and would not have occured with the petrol,or rather
if they had,would not have had the same effect.
Running gear,gearbox etc are IMO better than the S111,
the gearbox particularly is much stronger,but with the
disadvantage(if you can call it that)that double declutching
is necessary in bottom and second.You will have the usual
problems associated with wiring nearly thirty years old,
and god knows how many bodge jobs done on it in that time.
Having said all that,Americans seem to have a wierd skill
at busting half shafts,but even that isnt instantly fatal,
necessarily,since if you lose power to the back axle,four
wheel drive will usually see you home over the distances 
you mention.
I'd say go for it.I've certainly not regretted the decision.
Cheers

Mike Rooth

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Jun 1995 15:07:09 +0059 (BST)
From: Charlie Wright <cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: Feedback needed.....

On Fri, 2 Jun 1995, Custer wore an ARROW shirt wrote:

>  I am thinking about purchasing a 1968 SIIa. The vehicle will be my primary
> means of transportation, so I need something fairly dependable. I drive roughly
> 7 miles per day, 11,000 miles per year. 

What planet do you live on? We have 365.25 days in a year here on earth ;-)

>  Would the SIIa be a good idea? I saw some newer (mid 80's) Rovers that I liked,
> but none of them caught my eye like the SIIa did.

They're great for a daily driver, if you don't need _dependable_ 
transport. As they say, it will always get you home, but you may not 
always get out again straight away... It's usually Uncle Joe.

(BTW I found an alternator bracket...)

Charlie

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Jun 1995 16:42:42 +0200
From: vortex@worldaccess.nl (Bert Palte)
Subject: Introduction

Hi, you all out there,

I've been subscribed to this list for about one month now. 
Since I am new to Internet, I have thought it sensible to, for some time, be
only reading to see what is going on here.
Now, I would like to introduce myself before adding any comments 
of my own to this list.

My name is Bert, I'm the proud owner of a 1964 Series IIa 88 LandRover
(ex-British-Forces-Germany, in a specially modified,  military version,  
*not* an air transportable, so called cutaway).
I am pleased to see that there are so many Series owners on this list.

I wonder if you all are actually *driving* these old vehicles  or 
primarily  keeping them for fun, rather like myself, driving my LR 
only occasionally.
I'm more into classic cars than  into driving through the mud.

(Here in Holland, Europe, where the salty sea air makes everything on
 wheels rust very quickly, almost anything older than 15 years is considered
a classic; if you happen to live in Turkey or in Cuba, you would probably
consider such cars to be only just out of warranty   ;-)   ).

So, I like classics, and it is great fun driving my 1964 LandRover, in spite
of the obvious arguments against it ( e.g. low cruising speed, high noise
level, 
always the suspension if you are going to make it to your destination before
another, probably electrical,  malfuction will rise its ugly little head....)

Hope to meet you on the list!

----------------------------------------------------------------------------
---------------------------

Bert Palte
Roggeveld 25
3764 ZB         Soest
The Netherlands     

Home Phone # 02155 23949
E-mail: < vortex@worldaccess.nl >

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 02 Jun 1995 08:47:45 -0600 (MDT)
From: Mike Slade <SLCN3@cc.usu.edu>
Subject: OEM parts

I read your post about the different parts suppliers with interest as I did
just recieve yesterday a package from British Pacific.
 
I had ordered one U-joint and had specifically asked if these were 'genuine'
parts, I was assured that they were and patiently waited for my order.
 
When it arrived I had recieved TWO U-joints, not one like I had ordered, and
they were from a company called Hardy Spicer.
 
I called and he gave me the OEM parts schpiel and I guess I was satisfied with
his line, but was a bit irked that they had sent and charged me for two of
them.  I asked why they sent two and he replied that 'when you do one U-joint
you usually do the other', which is fine, but I wish that I would have been
given that advice over the phone BEFORE recieving the parts.
 
To their credit however, they send me the latest copy of LRO without charging
me anything for it.
 
So, what's the scoop on OEM parts?  I guess I'll wait until the official word
is in before ordering from them again.  They seemed a bit slimey they way they
dealt with me about the U-joints.  Am I just being anal?

Also, I have a Kodiak heater in my 66 IIa, and I too was baffled by the lack of
heat until one fateful day I figured out what the mystery knob was for. 
Apparetnly there is a butterfly valve in the hose from the intake to the fan
that the top knob closes.  With this closed there is not enough air blown
through the unit to heat.  I run mine with the top knob (valve) open, the
blower on HIGH and the water control valve all the way out.  Here in N. Utah
the winter was also quite mild, but when I figured out how that thing worked it
made for much more pleasant winter driving.

My next project will be to mount a towing hitch (ball type) to my rear cross
member as I am just about to pick up an '88 from a junk yard south of here on a
flatbed.  

Any suggestions?  I haven't even started to look at the different options.

Thanks everyone,

Michael

-My vehicle WAS tested on animals-

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Jun 1995 10:58:59 -0400
From: berg@acf2.NYU.EDU (Jeff Berg)
Subject: Re: Questions questions?

>>What size/type tires are those? Any clearance problems?

I've confirmed that the tires on my IIa 88 are Cooper Discoverer Radial CTD
LT235/85R16 m/s

Regards

JAB

==                                                                 ==
 Jeffrey A. Berg              Interactive Telecommunications Program
 Technical Administrator                         New York University
                          berg@acf2.nyu.edu
                          =================
Look what happens when you love someone, and they don't love you.
                                       --Warren Zevon, The Heartache
==                                                                 ==

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Jun 1995 17:17:38 +0059 (BST)
From: Charlie Wright <cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: OEM parts

Mike,

I think perhaps you've discovered why U-joints are also called "Hardy 
Spicer's" or "Hardy-Spicer Joints".  I think you'll find they _are_ OEM.

So yea, I guess that would qualify as anal ;-)

Charlie

C. R. Wright                                    Dept. of Genetics
+44 (0)1223 333970 telephone                    Univ. of Cambridge
+44 (0)1223 333992 telefax                      Downing Street, Cambs.
cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk                        CB2 3EH, England

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Jun 95 09:23:39 -0700
From: "TeriAnn Wakeman"  <twakeman@apple.com>
Subject: Re: OEM parts

In message <199506021449.JAA10299@butler.uk.stratus.com> Mike Slade writes:
 

; I read your post about the different parts suppliers with interest as I did
; just recieve yesterday a package from British Pacific.
;  
; I had ordered one U-joint and had specifically asked if these were 'genuine'
; parts, I was assured that they were and patiently waited for my order.
;  
; When it arrived I had recieved TWO U-joints, not one like I had ordered, and
; they were from a company called Hardy Spicer.

I would not be happy in your spot.  If they promised you parts in a container 
labeled guenuine Land Rover parts you should have received it as promised.  They
should have been able to tell you if it was labeled Land Rover, OEM or third 
party.  I don't hold for deception nor for a company so disorganized that they 
don't know what they have in stock.

I would also NOT be happy if I recieved two of something if I ordered one just 
because the person packing the box thought you didn't know what you were 
ordering.  He didn't know if you already had one on hand, had just made an order
with another company who only had one in stock so you already had one coming, or
if you damaged one 'U' joint and the other was still in like new condition.  I 
agree they should have recomended that you change out both ends of a shaft, but 
the decision should be yours.

  
. So, what's the scoop on OEM parts?  I guess I'll wait until the official word
; is in before ordering from them again.

Spicer is THE 'U' joint company.  They are OEM for just about every car 
manufacturer.  So don't worry about going wrong with Spicer 'U' joints.

Now about OEM vs Genuine parts.  This is an issue largely generated by Rovers 
North to justify the higher prices they charge.  When you design complicated 
hardware you need to be aware of parts cost.  Its WAY cheaper to specify a part 
out of a parts book than to specify a part that does  not exist. The British 
manufacturers are well aware of this.  Just look at the TR3 front turn signals 
on mid sixties Land Rovers, along with the TR3 fuse box, the Morgan license 
plate lights, the Big Healey rear lights, the Land Rover master clutch cylinder 
for the early cars are the same as the TR3's.  The British not only shared OEM 
parts but when possible whole assemblies.  Rovers North would like to tell you 
that Rover may have ordered a different metal alloy form Gurling for their 
cylinders.  That would probably more than triple the price of the cylinders, 
assuming Gurling would even do it.  

Even most custom for Land Rover parts were made by a second OEM company.  As 
long as the original company makes the part to the spec that Rover chose crom 
the manucafturer's catalogue, that part is identical to one that comes in a Land
Rover labeled box.

In several past jobs I was a Quality manager and responsible for internal audits
and understanding the company's design and manufacturing processes.  Most specs 
that a purchasing type orders from are copied word for word from a different 
company's parts catalogue.  Its a matter of economics.  Rover will not specify a
custom part if an off the shelf part will work.  If the box says Gurling, 
Lockheed (You can tell I'm working on brakes these days),National, Spicer, 
Timken, Lucas or other big name brands, I'm confident that the contents of the 
box are identical to the contents of a box labeled genuine Land Rover parts.  
Since the same company makes the part to the same spec and ether puts it in 
their own box or a genuine Land Rover Part box before it leaves the OEM factory 
doesn't make a difference to me.

Mind you, I do worry about some third party parts.

;  They seemed a bit slimey they way 
; they dealt with me about the U-joints.  Am I just being anal?

I agree, British Pacific was more than a bit slimy on your order.  I tend to go 
with them for domestic ordering because they seem to be consistantly cheaper 
than Rovers North and Atlantic British and I have only received OEM or Genuine 
Land Rover labeled parts from them.  I'm confident of the highest quality 
available parts at the best US price from them.  However, there are at least two
people on the phone line and though they both sound simular and are friendly, at
least one of them doesn't seem to know a whole lot about Land Rovers.  They seem
to be helpful but nowhere near as knowledgable as Rovers North's phone people.  
I don't think that were trying to cause you problems by sending you two "U" 
joints.  But that was not their decision to make.

I guess if I knew what I wanted I would go with British Pacific for US orders 
and if I was unsure of what I wanted or needed some advice, I would go to 
Rovers' North and assume the extra price is the cost of getting information from
a knowledgable person.  But I would definatly let British Pacific know exactly 
what I thought of them changing your order without your specific authorization.

TeriAnn Wakeman              .sig closed for remodeling
twakeman@apple.com         
              
                         
                       

------------------------------

From: Easton Trevor <TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA>
Subject: Unleaded Heads
Date: Mon, 29 May 95 10:31:00 DST

One of the methods to convert the head to unleaded is to install hardened 
valve seats. The theory is that tetraethyl lead provides a lubricant  which 
protects the valve seats and since this is not present in unleaded the seats 
will wear and the valves eat into the head. In reality this is only a 
problem in some engines which run with hot exhaust valves. IMHO Unless you 
continually drive your Landie at high speeds and loads it should not be 
necessary to do any conversion to the head. Keep a check on your exhaust 
valve clearances and if they start to close up rapidly then change your 
driving habits or modify the head.

Regarding Tony Yates notes on additives and toxic effects. Unfortunately we 
can't buy leaded any more in Canada or USA, some more information on the 
toxic emissions without a catalitic converter would be very interesting. I'm 
sure we are all using unleaded with happy ignorance in our lawnmowers and 
other non catalyst equipped vehicles and machinery. Are we commiting suicide 
unaware? Is this why my eyes smart all the time? Knowledgeable chemists 
please help. Perhaps we can become envirogeeks with our own pet peeve.

Trevor "Weepy" Easton

------------------------------

From: Easton Trevor <TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA>
Subject: Buffing
Date: Mon, 29 May 95 10:16:00 DST

Buffing refers to the coming together of railway wagons and locomotives for 
this purpose they are fitted with buffers. In north america this is refered 
to as draft gear. Since most Series Land Rovers are already fitted with 
several drafts, one would be lead to believe that buffing is a natural 
process and any additional buffing would be unnecessary. All that is 
required is to move the vehicle at a suitable speed, relative to the 
surrounding air, either under its own power or by placing it in a windy 
location. For optimum buffing (Draft, draught) a maximum air temperature of 
 -20 degrees is recommended.

Trevor Easton from the frozen north and Miss Golightly warm and snug with a 
Kodiak

------------------------------

From: Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: Volcano erupts in Guatemala/Trophy?
Date: Fri, 2 Jun 95 14:24:21 BST

> To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net

	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 15 lines)]
> Stefan
> <Stefan R. Jacob, 100043,2400@CompuServe.com>
Dont know about consequences...but hot lava could have some
effect on tyre life,I would have thought.

Mike Rooth

------------------------------

From: "John C. Sanders" <sanders@pipeline.com>
Date: Fri, 2 Jun 1995 13:10:48 -0400
Subject: 1967 Surplus NATO Land Rover for sale

My boss wants to sell his 1967 NATO surplus land rover. Although it's 25
years old it runs fine and has only 10,000 miles on the clock. Camouflage
in color. He's used it around his property as a work vehicle. It's now
located in Maine. Any interest? 
 
Thanks 
 
John

------------------------------

From: Mike Dryfoos <mikedr@microsoft.com>
Date: Fri,  2 Jun 95 10:27:07 TZ
Subject: RR heated windshields

I've found the heated windshield on my '92 RR very useful when out in 
the mountains in the snow.  Come back from a day out skiing and fire up 
the windshield heater to help clear off any ice and snow that has 
adhered to the surface.  It was genuinely invaluable one day when 
crossing over the mountains in a serious blizzard.  Everyone else had 
to pull over every 10 minutes to scrap off their windshields.

I don't use the heated windshield for ordinary defrosting.  I don't 
think it is really intended for that, and I get satisfactory results 
with the fan, anyway.  So I'd say if you don't find yourself out in the 
snow, it probably isn't worth the extra money.

------------------------------

>From: Sanna@aol.com
>Well, this gets back to my other question.  The PO of my RR replaced the
>heated windsheild with a standard one.  My windsheild is now cracked & could
>be replaced.  Is it worth the extra $300 for the heated screen?  Does it work
>that well?  The car's all wired for it. - Tony

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Jun 1995 10:41:06 -0700
From: growl@hsmpk14a-101.Eng.Sun.COM (William L. Grouell)
Subject: Re: converter

 > and most folks leave you alone...it ain't gunna kill ya to have a 
> converter on the 2.25...and having one will prevent the Greenies from 
  
  I will put on a Toyota windshield decal before a catalytic converter. Off
-road vehicles with these are known to start fires because they get so hot.

and

  You are just trading one form of pollution for another (sulfuric acid). It
is a known fact (but never mentioned by the Greenies) that 60% of auto air
pollution is caused by 10% of the vehicles... older, poorly maintained junkers.
Most of the rest is caused by unregulated diesels.

  Do not take this to mean that I don't care about the environment. I believe
that I am more of an environmentalist than most people who call themselves
"Green." I have been picking up others trash around campsites and treading
lightly, since I was five. I just know "junk science" when I see it.  
  

R, bg  ---The BIG BANG will recycle everything.

-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-
"The Green dweebs want a world where individuals don't count for much, where
all the important decisions -- such as whether to shift the Viper into fifth
-- are made in Washington.  They want a world controlled by the political
process.  That's because the shrub cuddlers are, as individuals, so 
insignificant.  They're losers, the three-bong-hit saviors of the earth,
lava lamp Luddites, global warming dolts, ozone boneheads, peace creeps,
tofu twinks, Birkenstock buttinskis, and bed-wetting vegetarian bicyclists
who bother whales on weekends.  They have no money, sense, or skills.  But
they can make their mark on politics because the whole idea of politics is
to achieve power without possessing merit." -- P.J. O'Rourke
-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-

------------------------------

Date: 02 Jun 95 13:43:52 EDT
From: "Matthew Holding (AUS)" <100036.2103@compuserve.com>
Subject: Re: OIL PRESSURE V8

Thanks Steve, Darryl, Charlie...
I am fitting a guage to see exactly what the pressure is doing - 
this 2wd Rover only has a red light to tell you when it blows up :-)
Good advice Charlie.  I have already gotten sick of paying $14 
a week for air filters so I have a great under bonnet anti rust system.
Have tried thick oil - 25-50 / 50 / 60 - all have had no effect.
Still runs really well.
I'll just have to fix that Landy with the sore piston.
Matt.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Jun 1995 20:06:42 +0200
From: vortex@worldaccess.nl (Bert Palte)
Subject: Re: Ser III Charge Light

On May 29th, Steve Rochna wrote:

>  After a nice holiday drive I made a quick stop at a local
>store and noticed that after startup the charge light stayed on.  
...
>Very shortly thereafter the charge light went out.  I killed the engine and
>restarted it multiple times and all seems well. 
>Normally on startup I have to rev the engine above normal idle to get the
charge
>light out then it stays out.  Is this normal?  Has anybody any insight as to
>what my charge light problem is (was)? 

Seems pretty straightforward to me. I have had the same problem, with different 
cars.
The point is that the brushes in your dynamo/generator or alternator 
will  either stick in their  guides or they will have worn.

You can repair it yourself if you like to. (If it is a dynamo, you will need
a large soldering iron, though).
A new set of brushes will probably not cost you much more
than about $ 10 or so.
Or you can have it done professionally. 
At that time, if they do it properly, the workshop will also renew the 
bearings of the dynamo or alternator.

Contrary to popular belief, alternators *do* have brushes !

Bert Palte

 

------------------------------

From: "Walter C. Swain" <wcswain@s101dcascr.wr.usgs.gov>
Subject: Re: 1967 Surplus NATO Land Rover for sale
Date: Fri, 2 Jun 1995 11:22:34 -0700 (PDT)

>>>>> John C. Sanders writes:

> My boss wants to sell his 1967 NATO surplus land rover. Although it's 25
> years old it runs fine and has only 10,000 miles on the clock. Camouflage
> in color. He's used it around his property as a work vehicle. It's now
> located in Maine. Any interest? 

I'm sure there is interest in such a vehicle. Can you supply more info on 
model (88/109), lhd vs rhd, top, and so on?  Little things, like asking 
price and body condition, would also be of interest.

Thanks,

Walter Swain      1967 IIA 109 Safari SW, petrol
Davis, CA

------------------------------

From: "Walter C. Swain" <wcswain@s101dcascr.wr.usgs.gov>
Subject: Re: Feedback needed.....
Date: Fri, 2 Jun 1995 11:25:42 -0700 (PDT)

>>>>> rick miale, Custer wore an ARROW shirt writes:
>  I am thinking about purchasing a 1968 SIIa. The vehicle will be my primary
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)]
> but none of them caught my eye like the SIIa did.
>  Any feedback would be welcome. Thank you (in advance)!

Assuming it's reliable, it'd be great.  But so would a bicycle, except 
maybe in the rain.

Walter Swain      1967 IIA 109 Safari SW, petrol
Davis, CA

------------------------------

From: "Walter C. Swain" <wcswain@s101dcascr.wr.usgs.gov>
Subject: Re: Volcano erupts in Guatemala/Trophy?
Date: Fri, 2 Jun 1995 11:31:55 -0700 (PDT)

>>>>> Stefan R. Jacob writes:
> I just picked up a news flash on dpa-online that apparently a volcano
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> any consequences for the Camel Trophy that just about now should be
> passing through Guatemala?

Hi Stefan,

What is  dpa-online, and how do I access it?

In response you your question, fine volcanic ash can play absolute havoc 
with air filters and engines.  During the 1980 eruption of Mt. St. Helens 
in the Pacific Northwest of the US filters clogged immediately and those 
who pulled them off wore out their engines in just a 200-300 km.  The 
recommended solution:  pantyhose.

Walter Swain      1967 IIA 109 Safari SW, petrol
Davis, CA

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Jun 1995 11:37:27 -0700
From: growl@hsmpk14a-101.Eng.Sun.COM (William L. Grouell)
Subject: Re: Introduction

> My name is Bert, I'm the proud owner of a 1964 Series IIa 88 LandRover
> I wonder if you all are actually *driving* these old vehicles  or 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> ( e.g. low cruising speed, high noise level, 
> Bert Palte
  
 I drive my '64 88" to work everyday... 80 miles (128K) round trip, here
in SF, California. Through Sierra blizzards in the winter, then across
the Oregon-Nevada-Utah desert every summer. No sweat.

 What? cound'nt hear you.

Regards, Bill G.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Jun 1995 12:13:54 PDT
From: Alex Bronstein <alex@adoc.xerox.com>
Subject: Good-Bye from a Grateful Lurker

Folks,

	I just wanted to let you all know, before I ask Majordomo to
cut me off that you are a very Healthy & Friendly & Pleasant bunch,
and I've enjoyed your company very much.

	A year ago, as my wife and I investigated the "Family-mobile",
the short list came down to Range-Rovers (incl. Discos) or Volvo station
wagons.  (Some of you may be horrified to read that, don't worry, the
only real intersection is that both vehicles provide a lot of very well
engineered heavy steel around your loved ones, thereby providing safety,
functionality and long-term value.)  At that time I joined this list to
learn more, and maybe buy a used RR/LR if a good deal came up.

	About 6 months ago, budget & mortgage realities set in, and
we invested about 5 K$ in a 10 year old Volvo 240 wagon.  The 50 $K RR
dream was pushed back to 10 or 20 years in the future.

	Meanwhile, I stayed on the list because on days when life would
get too stressful (and there a few like that when you work in Silicon
Valley, and have a 2 year old and a newborn at home), I knew I could 
always dive in my stash of unread lro-mail, and find a stream of
positive attitude, healthy realism, and good humor.

	But it's time for me now to pick a hobby with which I can do
more than daydream and read about.

	So, thank you all for your cyberspace hospitality!  May you all
be blessed with long-running vehicles which will only break in ways 
that you can fix with a screwdriver, a string, and a coin!

				Alex Bronstein
				Palo Alto, CA, USA

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Jun 95 13:15:48 MDT
From: rhcaldw@nma.mnet.uswest.com ( ROY CALDWELL )
Subject: Connection Gone - Goodbye

unsubscribe

Lost my job and worst they won't let me keep an
internet connection.  They seem to think I should
be working for them to get e-mail.  Really rude
people.  New things on the horizon - places to go,
people to see and things to do.  I have enjoyed the
list and everybody on it.  I have met and talked
with many good people.  As soon as my sys gets put
in a home and the local access is connected I will
be off the list for about two months.  Hope to see
and hear from evrybody soon.

Roy H. Caldwell
1530 Laurel St. 
Helena, MT.  59601
USA

(406) 442-1804

Roy - Rovers in the Rockies

------------------------------

Date: 02 Jun 95 16:20:40 EDT
From: Brian Imdieke <74051.2206@compuserve.com>
Subject: Copy of: Land Rover & Mercedes Parts

Someone here asked about getting Mercedes parts at a discount though mail
order......I forget who.

But, anyway these are the ones that I have had good luck with......

Caliber Motors (dealer)
Anaheim Hills, CA
1-800-252-6877

Autohaus  (aftermarket)
San Antonio, Texas
1-800-226-8159

By the way, anyone interested in joining the Mercedes Benz club of America, call
1-800-637-2360.  $35.00 annual.

------------------------------

From: "Russell G. Dushin" <dushinrg@pr.cyanamid.com>
Subject: smack-psssst
Date: Fri, 2 Jun 95 18:55:44 EDT

Bill C. fills us in:

>Word has it the only incident in the RTV was
>a D90 driver who rear-ended a lightwieght while convoying to the next section.
>Unfortunately, the military hitch took out the D90's radiator.  

Hmmmmm.

Never would'a happened had he had his radiator mounted deep within the
recesses of his breakfast.

Might'a crushed the 6-pack, though.

rd/nige 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Jun 1995 22:53:47 -0500
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Camel Trophy Daily Log

Thursday, June 1st - There is no road into the village of Izabal, a small 
group of thatched huts on the western edge of the lake of the same name.  
But one other vehicle has ever visited the settlement - a Land Rover on last 
year's recce.

It took the Camel trophy convoy two days to crawl across the mountainous 
'spanish road', a route built by Cortez in 1540.  "You are the first people 
to make the journey in such numbers since Cortez," said Izabal's mayor 
Andres Solis.  "We had heard that you were coming but we were not sure you 
would make it.  No other car has been through that road.  Not even the 
cowboys use it, it is so bad.  We don't get many visitors here.  Every time 
we travel, we go by boat."

The villagers offered use of their lakeside beach for a camp.  As none had 
washed in days, some teams jumped into the lake fully dressed.  However, 
following in the footsteps of Cortez was not easy: the Spanish team 
seriously damaged their transmission on a boulder just before the village.

This was to be the last formal group camp until Belize next week.  As with 
last weekend's exercise, the convoy will split into groups of three or four 
teams each: they have been given the name of a village on the 
Guatamala/Belize border and have two days to reach it.  Most of the roads 
are not marked on the map and have not been maintained in years.
      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |       Rover Owners' Association of Virginia         |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 804-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    804-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 804-622-7056     |
      *-----------------------------------------------------*

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Jun 1995 23:37:14 -0500
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Bits 'n pieces

WRT several threads...a nifty trick the next time you replace an axle is to 
take the end of a file and scratch a longitudinal line down its length.  The 
next time you have the shaft out and find the line no longer straight, you 
know that damage has been done and you should consider replacing it.

Wipers.  For the late IIa/III units (single motor/dual speed), try an Anco 
AN-10 replacement arm.  The arm length is adjustable and there is this shaft 
adapter - a little drum-shaped thing that is held in place by two Allen 
screws.  The central diameter needs to be enlarged a proverbial gnat's 
eyelash, but it's a quick, *inexpensive* fix.  Cheers.

 
      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |       Rover Owners' Association of Virginia         |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 804-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    804-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 804-622-7056     |
      *-----------------------------------------------------*

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 3 Jun 1995 03:30:57 -0400
From: rziegler@sover.net (Richard Ziegler)
Subject: RR oil and tie rod ends

Matthew Holding's '70 RR V8 engine is blowing oil into the breather system.
One possibility may be poor ring sealing on the pistons.  Even though
compression readings are good they may be good because of the oil getting
past the rings (blow-by).  (Don't forget that you do a wet compression test
to check for valve leakage by introducing oil through the sparkplug hole to
seal up the rings.)  The best method to check for piston ring sealing is to
do a leakdown test.  Compressed air is run through a gauge and into the
sparkplug hole of each cylinder.  The reading on the gauge is noted for each
cylinder and an audio check is made for air escaping at the oil fill,
radiator, carb, and tailpipe.  For each cylinder checked the valves have to
be shut for that cylinder.  The sound of air escaping from the oil fill
would indicate piston ring problems, from carb it would be intake valve,
from tailpipe it would be exhaust valve, and bubbles in the radiator coolant
would be headgasket.
     Oil pressure is a function of the oil pump, pressure relief valves,
bearings, and the general integrity of the high pressure side of the oil
system.  Thus, until you run low on oil you will show good oil pressure
readings if the hi pressure side is ok.  The piston rings are on the low
(no) pressure side of the system and thus problems here would not show up on
the gauge until aforementioned lack of oil.
_________
Dave Brown has a tie rod end that dropped out of his tie rod and asked if
the rod should be threaded.  The quick answer is yes and you should replace
the bad threaded rod for your safety.  Terminology: Tie rod (steering track
rod) connects the two front wheels together; drag-link is the rod connecting
one of the wheels to the steering relay (unit that goes through the front
chassis cross member), and longitudinal rod is the rod connecting the
steering relay to the steering box.  Tie rod ends are at each end of each of
the above rods and on each rod one end is right hand threaded while the
other end is left hand threaded. 
When replacing the tie rod ends in the track rod don't forget to set the
toe-in of the front wheels.  I use 1/16" toe -in.
Happy Rovering,
Rich Ziegler, L/R mechanic   '63 88 pet. (in pieces) '74 88 SIII HT pet.
daily driver

------------------------------

  END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST 
 Input:  messages 36 lines 1466 [forwarded 84 whitespace 363]
 Output: lines 1218 [content 702  forwarded 63 (cut  21) whitespace 349]



    
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