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Date: Thu, 1 Jun 1995 10:16:51 +0100
From: "S.W.Brierley" <S.W.Brierley@dl.ac.uk>
Subject: Stromberg to SU Conz on V8??

Hi fellow LRO's

I have a 76 SER III SWB with a 3.5Ltr V8 fitted under
the bonnet. It currently runs a set of 175CD Stromberg
Carbs, which aren't performing that brilliantly.
I would like to convert over to a set of SU-HIF carbs
and would appreciate any help/hints/comments from anyone
with any knowledge or experience of this conversion.
Mine has already had the linkage replaced by a throttle
cable to allow the connection to the Strombergs, so that
part isn't a problem.
Can anyone recommend good donors, or does anyone have a 
decent set of SU's that they may be willing to trade in.
Oh, and yes i do know that there are companies in the 
uk that do the complete kits, but the price put me off
a little!!!!
OOps the Subject should read Stromberg to SU conv on V8.
.....sorry.
Thanks in advance for any help offered.
Huh huhh huh huh Landrovers kick ass..... cool.
Stu.
swb@dl.ac.uk

------------------------------

From: "Steve Methley" <sgm@hplb.hpl.hp.com>
Date: Thu, 1 Jun 1995 12:11:53 +0100
Subject: Re: Stromberg to SU Conz on V8??

S.W.Brierley <S.W.Brierley@dl.ac.uk> writes:

>currently runs a set of 175CD Stromberg
>Carbs, which aren't performing that brilliantly.
>I would like to convert over to a set of SU-HIF carbs

Your cheapest option is to rebuild the Stombergs for 12 quid each.
There honestly isn't a great advantage in going to SU's.  I've had
both.  There is a small advantage in mixture setting ease on the HIF's
however, maybe this is what you're after?  Also purely personally I
liked the separate chokes of the SU's over the balance pipe of the
ZS's.

Neither reason is enough to change.  You'll get 20mpg from either set
up.  (racers use SU's mainly because of the wider range of needles
available by the way)

Cheers,
Steve.

------------------------------

From: Mr Ian Stuart <Ian.Stuart@ed.ac.uk>
Date:          Thu, 1 Jun 1995 12:33:58 +0000
Subject:       Re: *that* *word* :<

>... cool.

AAAaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaarrrrrrrrrrrrrrgggggghhhh

Someone used *that* *word* again!!!

it should be excised from the human conciousness!

BTW - I bought a 109 (1st registered dec 1st, 1980) last night & I'm in 
love all over again -- the world is a wonderful place!!!

     ----** Ian Stuart (Computing Officer)        +44 31 650 6205
Royal (Dick) School of Veterinary Studies, Edinburgh University. 
WWW sites: Work -- <http://www.vet.ed.ac.uk/>      
           Play -- <http://www.tardis.ed.ac.uk/~kiz/>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Jun 1995 21:39:19 +1000
From: Lloyd Allison <lloyd@cs.monash.edu.au>
Subject: Rover style half-shafts

I wouldn't worry about little marks on the splines at the diff' end.
Apparently the splines can twist, through many degrees, under "abuse"
a bit like a cork-screw, but they (sometimes) don't break until much later.
So a check at home (only takes a moment) can save a lot of bother later.

I must say this only applies to rear Rover-style diff's,  especially
S2, S2A long-wheel bases.  Salisbury diff's and half-shafts are
very strong.

Lloyd

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Jun 1995 07:45:26 -0400 (EDT)
From: Karl Kurz <kkurz@acad.umm.maine.edu>
Subject: digest unsub

Sir, I have been trying to unsubscribe to lro-digest for the last
few days....the return mail claims succss, but the journal still gets 
delivered. I'm off for the summer and need to slow down the incoming.
Thanks

------------------------------

From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Thu, 1 Jun 1995 08:05:10 -0400
Subject: Changing Water Temperature Sending Units

I am attempting to replace the water temp sending unit on my 67 88 IIa.  The
old sensor is a simple cylindrical structure which sets in a threaded seat
and held in place by a large nut.  The new sender unit is threaded and has a
hex head on the side where the electrical clip is.  I was told that the old
sensors no longer are available and that the new sensors fit after removing
the old threaded seat from the head.  How does one do this?  Can I just put a
large threaded nut on the old seat and screw in the new sensor at the other
end?

Additional note:  The Haynes shop manual has an error in the electrical
section.  The picture labelled temperature sending unit is really the cold
start sending unit.  I'm sure many of you have already noted this but I
thought I 'd mention it.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Thanks

Nate Dunsmore
Boring MD, USA
(410)828-2704 

------------------------------

Subject: Need help in RSA
From: paul@frcs.alt.za (Paul Nash)
Date: Thu, 01 Jun 1995 22:05:46 +1000

> I am looking for LR's in the RSA for this summer.  I am looking for

> farm near Tzaneen about a company called BellTrade that can get me what I

Belltrade are in Pretoria, and are in the phone book.  They also 
advertise in all the 4x4 rags, so it's not hard to find them.  I
don't have a Pretorai phone book handy, so I can't give you their
number off-hand.

Also look at Leimer's Land-Rovers in Johannesburg, and, as a last
resort, Rhino Rovers in Midrand (1/2 way between Joburg and Pretoria).
While you're in Pretoria en route to Belltrade, call in at Peco 
Motors (Church St, near Lion Bridge, tel +27 12 3238941) and talk
to Mike or Willie.  They are the LR agents (expensive), but have 
lots of contacts, are nice people, and may point you in the direction
of someone with Land-Rovers to sell.

------------------------------

From: Carl Byrne <SPECBB@cardiff.ac.uk>
Date: Thu, 1 Jun 1995 13:28:56 GMT
Subject: Gun box price

Old news now perhaps, but some one was asking for the UK price for 
gun box, part no. STC 8018. I was quoted 145 pounds sterling - I guess 
this was typical trade price.

Regards Carl.Dr. Carl Byrne
University of Wales College of Cardiff,
Wales.
UK.

------------------------------

From: Carl Byrne <SPECBB@cardiff.ac.uk>
Date: Thu, 1 Jun 1995 13:32:18 GMT
Subject: Electrical connector source.

Does anybody know who makes/supplied the connectors used throughout 
the new Landrover range. I am getting fed up of having to scrounge 
them from Parts Technical when I modify the wiring (fit new radio, 
near rear lights etc. etc). I guess they are to some new europian 
standard?

Can anybody help?

Regards Carl
Dr. Carl Byrne
University of Wales College of Cardiff,
Wales.
UK.

------------------------------

Subject: Roy is unreachable for a few weeks -B
Date: Thu, 01 Jun 95 09:04:07 -0400
From: William Caloccia <caloccia@sw.stratus.com>

------- Forwarded Message

Date: Wed, 31 May 95 16:09:22 MDT
>From: rhcaldw@nma.mnet.uswest.com ( ROY CALDWELL )
Subject: Lost my email

Bill,

This is kinda a rush.  I thought I had until next Monday
to unsubscribe and log off.  Word is the system
is going down now.  So I will not be able to say good bye
to the list as I had wanted to.  Please unsubcribe me.  It
will be at least two months before I get my system up at home
and get access ti the highway again.  It has been great and
the amount of info and friends I have made as a result of the
list is amazing and fun.  I will miss it and try to get back
on as soon as possible.  Take care.  Happy Rovering.

Roy H. Caldwell
1530 Laurel St.
Helena, MT.  59601
USA

(406) 442-1804

Rovers in the Rockies 

------- End of Forwarded Message

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Jun 95 09:28 EDT
From: jhoward@atlas.usno.navy.mil (James D. Howard)
Subject: RR prototype

There are a couple of pictures and some information about a Range
Rover prototype (for the original model, not the most recent) in the
latest issue of Automobile Quarterly.  They are in an article about
the Rover company.  For production, they definitly improved the looks
of the front end.  

James

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 01 Jun 95 08:23:19 MST
From: DEBROWN@SRP.GOV
Subject: Defroster

FROM:  David Brown                           Internet: debrown@srp.gov
       Computer Graphics Specialist * Mapping Services & Engr Graphics
       PAB219 (602)236-3544 -  Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486
SUBJECT: Defroster
Scott, (I think?)

Try turning on the air conditioner compressor when using the defroster
to defog the windows. The A/C removes moisture from the air. Works real
well!!

Those of us with series LR's are out of luck with this one. I suppose
it's a good thing to have a nearby towel to wipe the window with.

Good luck,

#=======#                Never doubt that a small group of individuals
|__|__|__\___            can change the world... indeed, it's the only
| _|  |   |_ |}          thing that ever has.
"(_)""""""(_)"                                          -Margaret Mead

------------------------------

Date: 01 Jun 95 11:48:15 EDT
From: "Matthew Holding (AUS)" <100036.2103@compuserve.com>
Subject: OIL PRESSURE IN V8

Instead of the usual lack of oil pressure I have a 1970 Rover V8 that seems to
have too much.  The engine has recently has new gaskets and compression is good
and runs really well but it insists on blowing oil up through the breather
system into the air cleaner.  This wastes a lot of paper elements...  
After a few days driving the reverse happens - it has blown its oil out the top
and now has a lack of pressure.  I am tempted to put a cork in every hole in the
breather system, but they will probably just pop out :-)
Any ideas - our local club members have drawn a blank.
HELP...

Matthew Holding   - South Australia

(Also presently fixing a big hole in a Series One piston.  The engine was
running fine even with a hole my thumb fits through...   quality engineering !)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 01 Jun 95 09:15:39 MST
From: DEBROWN@SRP.GOV
Subject: Drag link on an 88

FROM:  David Brown                           Internet: debrown@srp.gov
       Computer Graphics Specialist * Mapping Services & Engr Graphics
       PAB219 (602)236-3544 -  Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486
SUBJECT: Drag link on an 88
Hello Roverheads! I started using the '71 IIa 88 that I recently bought,
and with your help, passed emissions and is now legal! Now, the little
things that need attention start to surface.... I went to Tombstone
Arizona, about 180 or so miles south of where I live, (actually I took
the 88 AND the 109, as we had lots of people) but didn't do anything
trying for the vehicles. Only some easy trails, nothing to write home
about. Didn't even use 4wd. Anyway, several days later, I used the 88,
and the first time I backed up, the tie rod fell out of the drag link,
and I had the tires facing opposite directions! (Glad this didn't happen
on the freeway!) I just popped it back in and tightened up the bolt that
clamps around the tie rod end.

My question is this: Is the drag link supposed to have "threads" to help
hold the tie rod end? Or is it supposed to be smooth? Mine is basically
smooth, (warn?) so I wondered if I need to replace this???

I think I have the terminology correct, but in case I don't, I'm talking
about the straight rod that connects the two tires.

Thanks for your replys!

#=======#                Never doubt that a small group of individuals
|__|__|__\___            can change the world... indeed, it's the only
| _|  |   |_ |}          thing that ever has.
"(_)""""""(_)"                                          -Margaret Mead

------------------------------

From: "Steve Methley" <sgm@hplb.hpl.hp.com>
Date: Thu, 1 Jun 1995 17:21:49 +0100
Subject: Re: OIL PRESSURE IN V8

Matthew Holding (AUS) <100036.2103@compuserve.com> writes:

>Instead of the usual lack of oil pressure I have a 1970 Rover V8 that seems to
>have too much.  The engine has recently has new gaskets and compression is go
>and runs really well but it insists on blowing oil up through the breather

This is not too much oil pressure, this is blowby.  Ie the pistons
rings are not sealing well and you have high crankcase pressure, not
good.  If the breather system is working properly and you still have
this problem, start saving up pennies now.  What is the actual oil
pressure?

>After a few days driving the reverse happens - it has blown its oil out the t
>and now has a lack of pressure

Oh dear, it just seems to get worse doesn't it.  What's the pressure
now?

The V8 should never really put out much more than 35psi from the pump
- it's designed for high flow tho'.  Blowby at idle is mild.  Take off
the oil filler cap from a rocker cover and feel the blow-by pressure on
your hand.

An oil flush or upper cylinder lubricant may help you.

Cheers,
Steve.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Jun 95 09:45:40 PDT
From: ajm@mda.ca (Alex McLellan)
Subject: Old Windscreen Wipers

ISTR that my '54 Morris Minor had the same design. Spoon-shape
connection, perfectly straight blade for a flat winscreen.

So, try the Morris Minor Centre in Bath. 

Sorry, no address/phone, but BT will tell you!

Regards
Alex
(ajm@mda.ca - not speaking for mda)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Jun 1995 12:54:24 -0400
From: berg@acf2.NYU.EDU (Jeff Berg)
Subject: Re: Questions questions?

After viewing the photos of my Rover, David Brown asks:

>Does your CD player skip? Is it a changer? (Multiple discs) and what
>type is it?

The CD player is a Sony 10-disc changer with a 3 second digital delay to
prevent skipping.  It's not foolproof, it occasionaly skips (it *hates*
dirty discs), and will periodically misfeed a new disk if you're traveling
over rough terrain  -- Like I-95 in Connecticut, "The Construction State"
-- while it's changing.  Overall, however, it's quite satisfactory.  I
don't remember the model off the top of my head, but can provide if so
asked.  Source: Crutchfield

>How do you attach the roll bar? Is it attached to the frame in some way?
>Or just bolted to the bed? Where did you get it?

The rollbar was originally through bolted into collars welded to the frame.
While this was sturdy enough to protect during a rollover, the bar
shimmied back and forth in an unseeming manner.  It's now welded into the
collars, and would have to be cut out with a torch or grinder.  A while
back Steve Denis sent me Email, and also posted to the list, that rollbars
should not be fastened to the frame.  Essentially, his arguement went that
if the body mounts broke, you could be wedged between the frame/rollbar and
the body.  After some additional consultation, including an examination as
to how Safety Devices (who do the Camel Trophy bars) mount their stuff, I
decided to ignore his advice and had it attached to the frame.  My
reasoning: if the body sides gave with a body attached bar the sandwich
would be the same, and I (and Safety Devices apparently) have more faith in
the frame mounted bar.  The point load during a rollover would be less on
the body mounts than on the attachment points of a body-mounted rollbar.
Thanks to Steve for his input though, it really had me thinking for a
while.

>Do you still have your wiper motor? I like the speakers and location,
>but would not like to lose the wipers, how did you do this?

It's in there.  I have the single speed, single motor wipers.  The speakers
are the ADS 320i model mounted onto flat 1/8" aluminum plates.  The woofer
is inside a cutout, but there is a collar (provided) that reduces the
intrusion of the woofer magnet behind the plate.  The tweeters mount flush.
It's close, but everything fits without any major contortions.  The real
question is whether I'll be able to fit two speed wipers w/ washers...
Speaker crossovers are in the rear tool enclosure, but would probably fit
behind the speaker mounting plates if you so desired.

>Are your speakers waterproof? (Marine type.)

Nope, just regular auto speakers.  They probably wouldn't be too bothered
by an occasional rain drop, but I wouldn't subject them to flooding and
expect long life.  The speaker choice was automatic, these very units have
been in my previous two cars, and I may go a different route when I finally
replace them.

>Have you considered mounting the CD or radio under the drivers seat? In
>the "tool box/battery holder"?

Nope.  I like to fool with the sounds too much.  I need line of sight to
the stereo.

>Does your heater "heat"? Can you feel much air flowing from it, or is it
>more like... "wait a minute... I think I feel it... yes... there IS air
>coming out... "

Air definitely moves, but it's not always very hot.  I'd describe it as
"taking the chill off" more than heating.  However, I'm unhappy with the
core, and have had some small coolant leaks with the right hand heater knob
pulled out.  Roverworks has promised to look into the core when I next have
the truck in.  Meanwhile, I survived winter!  (Though it was very mild this
year.)

In the foolish questions of my own category, would anyone care to explain
what that knob does exactly?  I know the top, white knob is the fan, and
the lower left black knob turns the heater on.  The lower right knob
remains an unused mystery due to the leakage that occurs whenever I pull it
out.  Could this be the key to all that "awesome" Kodiak heat I'm not
getting?

>What size/type tires are those? Any clearance problems?

They are Cooper 235 x 85/16 radials.  Originally we were installing the CTD
model, but I think that may have changed at the last minute for a less
agressive model. (95% of my driving is city or interstate.)  I'll try to
remember to check tonight.  If I don't get back on this tomorrow send me
back channel mail to jog my memory.  No clearance problems that I've
noticed yet.

>Again, very nice looking "88!! My compliments!

Thank you.  It's gratifying to hear.  I hope this info proves useful.

Keep on Roverin'!

JAB

==                                                                 ==
 Jeffrey A. Berg              Interactive Telecommunications Program
 Technical Administrator                         New York University
                          berg@acf2.nyu.edu
                          =================
Look what happens when you love someone, and they don't love you.
                                       --Warren Zevon, The Heartache
==                                                                 ==

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 01 Jun 95 10:02:13 MST
From: DEBROWN@SRP.GOV
Subject: Re: Drag link on an 88

FROM:  David Brown                           Internet: debrown@srp.gov
       Computer Graphics Specialist * Mapping Services & Engr Graphics
       PAB219 (602)236-3544 -  Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486
SUBJECT: Re: Drag link on an 88
OH S*&%!!! I drove it to work this morning!!!

If you never hear from me again, it's been a joy!!! Don't take any blame
for my death, I've been warned...

I'm going to "crawl" home with the beast! Pray for me!!!

#=======#                Never doubt that a small group of individuals
|__|__|__\___            can change the world... indeed, it's the only
| _|  |   |_ |}          thing that ever has.
"(_)""""""(_)"                                          -Margaret Mead
*** Reply to note of 06/01/95 09:54
=========================================================================
   Thu, 01 Jun 95 09:54:07 MST
          id AA25868; Thu, 1 Jun 1995 09:56:44 -0700
	id AA23892; Thu, 1 Jun 95 12:56:44 EDT
Date: Thu, 1 Jun 1995 12:56:44 -0400 (EDT)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.emr.ca>
Subject: Re: Drag link on an 88
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII

On Thu, 1 Jun 1995 DEBROWN@SRP.GOV wrote:

> My question is this: Is the drag link supposed to have "threads" to help
> hold the tie rod end? Or is it supposed to be smooth? Mine is basically
> smooth, (warn?) so I wondered if I need to replace this???

	You could have had a disaster.  Tie rod ends thread in, they are
	*not* supposed to be smooth.  The last time a OVLR member showed up
	to an event like this we welded the tie rod on and sent him home
	to get a new tie rod end and drag link.  (his tie rod end was
	in no great shape either).

	Rgds,

	Dixon

------------------------------

Date: 01 Jun 95 13:08:17 EDT
From: Brian Imdieke <74051.2206@compuserve.com>
Subject: RR

Hello Ben!....Mind if I call you Ben?

So, you haven't taken you SE off road yet?  You're missing the best part!  I
broke my engine in for about 800 mi. before going off road, but that is all!
This thing is serious in the bush.  I mean really excellent!  After you get past
that first little scratch, you'll want to take it off road all the time.  

My tail pipe is black as well.  The engine runs well and I'm getting about 16-17
mpg on the road, so I don't care if it's black.  By the way, my Mercedes is
really black too.

I haven't had any parts fall off yet, but the console lid doesn't fit well.  The
dealer ordered a new one (back-order of course).

While I do love this vehicle, there are two things that bug me.  First is the
climate control.  The fan speed seams to adjust only according to how much sun
is shining and does not care about the temp. difference between the set temp.
and actual.  I'm not sure where you live, but here in Phoenix, the temp. can be
very high even at night.  I can set the control down to 60 degrees or even to LO
and the fan still runs too slow.  The car will never get down to the set temp.
unless I override the fan.  Also, in the morning if the temp is set to anything
but LO, I get only hot air for about a mile or so.  It seams to be waiting for
the engine to warm up before releasing cold air.  If it is set to LO, I get cold
air in just a few seconds.  Does your climate control display these same
symptoms?

Second, the transmission is not very smart.  You mention the refinement of
Lexus.  Did you own one?  I did and that trans was very smart.  In the RR, as
you ascend a hill the trans will down shift if you lose some speed, but then it
up shifts as soon as it regains its speed. Then it will do this over and over
and......  Is yours the same?  

Almost everything in this car is controlled by computer.  In light of that fact,
these two problems really seam out of line.  It just seams like they quit before
they were finished.

Changed my oil at 1,000 as well and I will definitely be going to Mobil 1 at
7,500.  Have done so with all my cars.  I change ever 7,500.  Some think that is
too long in between, but I've been doing it this way for many years.  These
synthetic oils are great!

Anyway, get that RR off the beaten path!  You won't regret it!  Just remember,
if you do break something, ANYTHING can be repaired!

Brian Imdieke
Phoenix, AZ
1993 500SEL
1994 S500 coupe
1995 RR 4.0 SE
 

------------------------------

Date: 01 Jun 95 13:08:14 EDT
From: Brian Imdieke <74051.2206@compuserve.com>
Subject: Re: Land Rover & Mercedes Parts

Yes, my '95 RR is under warranty for a long time.  When it comes to parts, I'm
not worried about this thing breaking, but rather I'm looking for accessories
and *maintenance* parts.

And yes, I *always* wave!  (or flash the lights)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Jun 1995 13:17:29 -0400 (EDT)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.emr.ca>
Subject: Re: Drag link on an 88

On Thu, 1 Jun 1995 DEBROWN@SRP.GOV wrote:

> OH S*&%!!! I drove it to work this morning!!!

	Yeah, so?  it made it... :-)

> If you never hear from me again, it's been a joy!!! Don't take any blame
> for my death, I've been warned...

	Just modify your will to send the Land Rover products this way...
	I could use the rear box on your 109 station wagon... :-)

> I'm going to "crawl" home with the beast! Pray for me!!!

	If it lasted this long, it will last until you get home.  If you
	prefer the 109 over the 88, steal the drag link from the 88.
	BTW, its called the steering track rod, LR part #526994
	At RN it costs $75.00, at ABP its $129.95.  In the UK, expect
	somewhere in the order of 15-20 pounds maximum.

	Rgds,

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Jun 1995 10:21:11 -0700
From: growl@hsmpk14a-101.Eng.Sun.COM (William L. Grouell)
Subject: Re: Drag link on an 88

 
> My question is this: Is the drag link supposed to have "threads" to help
> hold the tie rod end? Or is it supposed to be smooth? Mine is basically
> smooth, (warn?) so I wondered if I need to replace this???

  Sounds like what I'd call the tie rod. Yes, it's supposed to have threads.
Don't drive it until you get threads. There are six of these joints in the
steering system, a pair on each end of the three rods. One end is right
hand thread, one end is left hand thread, so you can loosen the little clamps
and adjust the lenth by turning the rod. Get some new ones soon. The threads
in the rod may be stripped out also. Please check.
  The lenth of the one that fell off (tie rod) is important as it adjusts the
"toe in" of your front wheels. They should be ~1/8" closer together at the
front. This keeps the machine from wandering all over the road. If you do
not feel qualified to make this adjustment, any tire shop can do it, even
if they have never seen a Land Rover before. The lenth of the other two rods
is not as important, they only affect where the steering wheel points, when
you are going straight down the road.

  Suggestion: 

  Call each of the three parts dealers listed. Beg or purchase a catalog from
each one. The illutrations in these catalogs are the best shop manual you
can buy, and if you play your cards right you can get all three for free!
Order a "pair" of tie rod ends from each one and ask for a catalog. A pair
will cost about $25.  

Atlantic British Ltd
Box 110 Rover Ridge Drive
Mechanicville, NY 12118
(800) 533-2210 Orders only
(518) 664-6169 Technical questions
(518) 664-6641 Fax
Free catalog
Lots of aftermarket parts
Many "oem" parts, but not Land Rover authorized

British Pacific
3317 Burton Ave.
Burbank, CA 91504
Tel.(818)841-8945
800-554-4133
Fax.(818)841-3825

Rovers North
Box 61 Route 128
Westford, VT 05494
(802) 879-0032
Authorized Land Rover parts supplier
Free catalog

Regards, Bill G.

PS; Don't drive it until you get threads

------------------------------

From: MarcBowen@aol.com
Date: Thu, 1 Jun 1995 13:27:45 -0400
Subject: Re: #2(2) The Land Rover Owne...

unsuscribe lro-digest

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Jun 1995 18:28:18 +0100
From: Steven Ballard <sballard@rdl.co.uk>
Subject: S.C.O.R. Open Day, 16th July.

Dear all,

     I have been asked to let people know about a club open day event
in July. The event is being organised by the Southern Counties Off
Road club ( SCOR ). Admission to the event is free, but the usual club
fees and regulations apply if you want to enter the trial or
safari. The idea of the event is to attract some more club
members. Below are all the details from the poster designed for the
event. If you need any more information please mail me. Anyone who can
attend will be very welcome.

Steven Ballard.

Info from the poster:

OPEN DAY, JULY 16th 1995
BRICK KILN FARM, FOURMARKS, ALTON, HAMPSHIRE, ENGLAND

.Special Attractions:
Modified Trials, Timed Safari, Static Displays, Trade Stands

.Off-Road Course and Gymkana for newcomers

DIRECTIONS: Brick Kiln farm is 1/2 mile west of Alton on the A31

ALL POTENTIAL OFF-ROADERS WELCOME

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Jun 95 10:36:34 PDT
From: brabyn@skivs.ski.org (John Brabyn)
Subject: Re:  Towing

I have noticed the same admonition in my RR manual. I think the ban on 
equalizing hitches is due to their worry that it might interfere with the action
of the air suspension or in my case the Boge Hydromat gizmo that was on coil
sprung Range Rovers. The same does not apply to Discoverys and Defenders, which
have ordinary coil suspensions.

I think you'll find that when you hook up the trailer, the air suspensiuon 
will magically level the vehicle, performing at least one of the functions of 
a load equalizing hitch. The other function, transferring weight off the
rear wheels onto the front wheels, will not happen, but I doubt if that's a problem
problem. Yous SHOULD still use a sweay control on the hitch to reduce sudeways
sideways trailer sway. I tow a 20 foot house trailer with mine, and find the
sway control essential but can live without the load equalizer, even though
the old Boge load leveller doesn't work as well as the air suspension for
levelling up the car.

The tongue weight you speak of does seem kind of hefty so you might want to look at 
at a lighter one. The payload of the 4.0 SE is less than the old RRs so you
could end up overloading it, but on the other hand the chassis is immensely strong
so you'd probably be ok with careful smooth driving.

Let us know how you get on -- it's great to have a 4.0 SE owner on the list!!

Cheers

John Brabyn
89 RR

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Jun 95 10:52:54 PDT
From: brabyn@skivs.ski.org (John Brabyn)
Subject: Re:  RR

Great to see that you guys are into off-roading with your 4.0 SEs. The more
I have read about the vehicle the better the reviews of its off-road prowess semm
seem to get. In the latest Rovers North newsletter there is a nice review
pointing out that even though the wheel travel figures are down a bit, 
articulation is just as good, and you actually gain more articulation in the
high profile mode. I guess the ride softens up a bit in high profile too,m
which is clever and needed for off-road use.

Be sure to send in reports of your experiences so the rest of us can drool

Cheers

John Brabyn
Mill Valley, Ca
89 RR

------------------------------

From: Sanna@aol.com
Date: Thu, 1 Jun 1995 14:20:29 -0400
Subject: Re: Defroster

>Try turning on the air conditioner compressor when using the defroster to
defog the windows. The A/C removes moisture from the air. Works real well!!
 Those of us with series LR's are out of luck with this one.

On my IIa I keep a squeegee on the dash.  But back to the '89 RR.  I never
have really figured out the heating system on the car.  I understand the fan
switch, the floor/screen switch, and the vent open/close switch (I think),
but the function switch is confusing.  Going left to right, first there is
the A/C position.  This is pretty clear.  Select this and cold air pours out
the dash vents and nowhere else.  The next one, however, is a mystery.  This
is the position marked with the two arrows, a blue one on top and a white one
on the bottom.  When this is selected the twin auxilliary electric cooling
fans in front of the radiator kick in, so I assume that the compressor is
also running.  AIr blows out the dash vents and as well as the heater or
defroster depending on what has been selected by the floor/windscreen switch.
 I am guessing that in this position the system is blowing A/C air on the
passengers and heated air on their feet or the windscreen.  What good is
this?  The next position is heat.  Simple.  And the other is recirculate.
 This is the one that I think is stuck.  With the system in the heat mode and
with the vent open/close set to open, shouldn't fresh air be flowing through
the dash vents at highway speeds?  Anyway, the RR's a real fog machine in wet
weather.  Any suggestions? - Tony

------------------------------

Subject: Re: Defroster 
Date: Thu, 01 Jun 1995 15:23:26 -0400
From: "Jeff Young" <young@mci.net>

the mystery switch is used to keep the air conditioning from
fogging the windscreen on warm muggy days.  it blows a/c
on the passengers and heat on the windsheild.  this does 
seem like overkill because the rr does have a defroster in
the windsheild.

go figure.

Jeff Young
young@mci.net

------------------------------

From: Sanna@aol.com
Date: Thu, 1 Jun 1995 17:53:37 -0400
Subject: Re: Defroster 

>this does seem like overkill because the rr does have a defroster in the
windsheild.

Well, this gets back to my other question.  The PO of my RR replaced the
heated windsheild with a standard one.  My windsheild is now cracked & could
be replaced.  Is it worth the extra $300 for the heated screen?  Does it work
that well?  The car's all wired for it. - Tony

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Jun 1995 18:00:17 -0500
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Camel Trophy Daily Log

Wednesday, May 31st - "The Spanish Road Bites Back"  Despite dry weather and 
a dearth of mud, an attempt to traverse this 430 year old thoroughfare 
resulted in the most strenuous day of driving yet.  Though dubbed a 'road', 
this route built by the conquistadors centuries ago is little more than a 
footpath though the jungle high above Lago Izabal.

Remains of the original stone roadbed were still visible in places, but in 
most sections, the track was heavily overgrown and rutted: it had never been 
used by motorized vehicles before.  At one corner, a nasty 100' drop awaited 
anyone who made a false move, while at another less-dangerous conner, the 
Japanese and one other team rolled their Discoveries.  "It was only lucky 
that there was no mud, or otherwise we would have been in the jungle for 
days," said one of the Japanese team members.

Downed trees, the thick undergrowth and 3' deep ruts slowed the pace of the 
33 vehicle convoy; it took almost 14 hours to cover just 13 km of trail. 
Only as dusk fell did the team manage to find a clearing for the night's camp.
      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |       Rover Owners' Association of Virginia         |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 804-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    804-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 804-622-7056     |
      *-----------------------------------------------------*

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Jun 95 17:51:12 PDT
From: mtalbot@InterServ.Com (Mark Talbot)
Subject: Re: My sick 88 Range Rover

All, 

Thanks for all the replies. Here is the diagnosis, the garage pressure tested 
the head, NO leak in the gasket. 

It appears, and I have yet to get over there to check this, that the rad is 
clogged up with "stuff" the mechanic said that this "stuff" is NOT oil/water 
mix !!!! Anyway, he tested the rad and found that it is not holding water, 
core must be blocked !!!! Bascially a new rad is needed. 

Will keep you all informed, I'm puzzeled, as I have been away and yet to get 
over there to see this "stuff" 

Mark
MArk

------------------------------

From: jpappa01@InterServ.Com
Date: Thu, 1 Jun 95 18:49:08 PDT
Subject: Re: 	ARC 95

Well, just poured off the plane after a superb Pilgrimage `95 to the ARC 
Nationals. We had a super time - the ARC National went off well - some great 
video was shot in the quarry sites. Met up with a few of the regulars - Dave 
Bowyer, Pete Wilford(!), Jon Slavin, as well as the BSROA hooligan faithfuls - 
Hong and Keegan. The National was a great time and the Lincolnshire LRC did a 
creditable job of hosting this large event.

A highlight for the BSROA group this year was the visit to meet John Foers and 
his D90-based IBEX off-road machine. We were able to see a work-in-progress as 
well as his just-completed version 2 prototype. We were all very, very 
impressed with the space-frame structure and chassis of this vehicle. Off road 
performance? How about and 85 degree approach and departure angle (for SWB 
model)??!! Yes, 85! John Foers is quite the gentleman and was nice enough to 
invite us to his house for coffee to see his series 1 prototypes and to meet 
his very talented artist/wife Christine. Very nice people. This vehicle is the 
only alternative to the Solihull product that we would welcome into the ranks 
of our Club. Thanks, John & Christine. Hong was virtually out of control after 
he scoped out this machine!

This year's factory tour at Solihull was by far the best we've had in the 
three years we've had this event. Many thanks to LRNA as well as Paul 
Butterworth of LRUK for having us during the holiday week and letting us spend 
virtually a whole day in the factory as well as on the Land Rover Experience & 
Jungle Track! There are some surprises coming in the 1996 model year lineup. 
More on that stuff later. At the Experience HQ, however, was this 
insane-looking yellow thing which looked as if it was out of BLADERUNNER or 
something. The words *CITY CAB* on the front along with the LR logos. Gull 
wing doors and the thing looked like it was death on wheels. I peered inside 
and there sat an undisguised FC/101 fascia! Looked underneath... there was the 
FC/101 chassis as well! What gives. Tune into Sly Stallone's upcoming movie 
*Judd Dred* (sorry about the spelling) in which the futuristic plot features 
this contrivance - among others. I was told that three actual runners were 
made - along with about 27 mockups (which were presumably blown into 
smithereens during the filming!) during the shooting. Who knows, this could be 
the next *Gods must be crazy!* Stay tuned.

Tuff Trax was a great driving experience for the group - they run a good 
program complete with *special tasks* and teams doing trial gate driving while 
holding a cup of water and a time/slalom driving a non-PAS Bedford 4x4 
monstrosity! I only knocked down two cones and shunted once - 30 points! Oops. 
Tuff-Trax offers a great diversity of hazards and conditions. Highly 
recommended. Tuition covers use of their vehicles and a hot meal as well as 
*trophies* for the winning team. A lot of fun.

We are already planning next year's Pilgrimage. At this point, it looks like a 
possible off-road guided tour of Wales w/David Bowyer & Co.- following the 
National. We will try very hard to increase the lead time for this event for 
next year. 

Thanks once again to the Shotgun and Andrew Cutting for doing 98% of the 
organizing! 

Cheerz
Jim - now completely mad... and loving it!

------------------------------

From: dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au (Daryl Webb)
Subject: Re: Stromberg to SU Conz on V8??
Date: Fri, 2 Jun 1995 12:05:56 +0930 (CST)

> Neither reason is enough to change.  You'll get 20mpg from either set
> up.  (racers use SU's mainly because of the wider range of needles
> available by the way)

Steve Tell us How....   The best I've ever gotten from my stage 1 is 15-16.
at the moment its more like 12 (suspected U/S cam)
Ok so a stage 1 isnt a lightweight but...

-- 

  Daryl Webb   (dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au)

------------------------------

Subject: Re: Defroster 
Date: Thu, 01 Jun 1995 23:05:14 -0400
From: "Jeff Young" <young@mci.net>

to be honest, i haven't had mine long enough to tell you.

Jeff Young
young@mci.net

> Return-Path: Sanna@aol.com
> Received: from noc.mci.net (noc.mci.net [204.70.127.254]) by ns.mci.net (8.6.12/8.6.6) with ESMTP id SAA00578 for <young@mci.net>; Thu, 1 Jun 1995 18:15:14 -0400
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 19 lines)]
> be replaced.  Is it worth the extra $300 for the heated screen?  Does it work
> that well?  The car's all wired for it. - Tony

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Jun 1995 20:27:51 -0700
From: john@oaty.com (John Grant)
Subject: Heater air recirculating on RR

I had this problem on my '89. In wet weather you'd turn on to demist, count
to 60 and not be able to see out. The heater only made life worse. It's all
due to a ridiculous bit of design with a solenoid valve.

Strapped to the lhs of the heater is a solenoid valve fed from the intake
vacuum. Well, when the air is set to not recirculate the valve opens and
the "suck" holds open the air intake flap. After a few years it burns out -
why didn't they have it work the other way ? How often do you use
recirculate anyway ?

The cheap fix (only removes skin from knuckles) is to just unplug the pipe
that goes to the valve and plug it directly into the flap control. So you
lose control over air input, keep the $40 that the valve costs, and don't
have to take the whole lower part of the dashboard out just to get a
screwdriver in.

------------------------------

From: LANDROVER@delphi.com
Date: Fri, 02 Jun 1995 00:49:04 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: converter

> and most folks leave you alone...it ain't gunna kill ya to have a 
> converter on the 2.25...and having one will prevent the Greenies from 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> media? You know, those *great* Land Rover people..and here all this time 
> we thought they were all hooligans!...think about it....

What?? Have you been out in the sun too long?? 

------------------------------

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