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| msg | Sender | lines | Subject |
| 1 | Brian Neill Tiedemann [s | 40 | winches! |
| 2 | Charlie Wright [cw117@mo | 52 | Re: converter |
| 3 | "S.Vels Christensen" [ve | 34 | Rods, Ends and Tracking. |
| 4 | Piers E Montague [me92pe | 37 | At Last!!! |
| 5 | rwegner@fimage.synapse.n | 28 | Rovin! again, all is well! |
| 6 | jfhess@ucdavis.edu (john | 36 | unleaded gas |
| 7 | Kelly Minnick [minnick@j | 34 | Misc |
| 8 | paul@frcs.alt.za (Paul N | 23 | Re: daily use |
From: Brian Neill Tiedemann <s914440@minyos.xx.rmit.EDU.AU>
Subject: winches!
Date: Sat, 3 Jun 1995 23:18:55 +1000 (EST)
Hi again,
I think the mystery U-joint may have been describing the two universal
joints and rubber thingy in my steering column to box linkages.... they
have been found loose in the past. Any suggestions for removing play in
said unis without replacing ($$$ here)? I have a couple of joints from
some late model Volvo... forgive me but if i can make em fit i will, as
the spline is the same.
Now for the purpose of my post for 2day. I have just purchased a new
tractor battery for my RR, and in doing so i chatted to a few people and
asked many questions. The result: I am now the proud owner of a Ramsay
8000lb PTO winch and shafts and PTO to suit a canned loser er.. land croozer.
Question: Is the ramsay a good winch, and how does it compare to a Thomas?
I believe the Thomas is a copy of Ramsay's Design, is this so, and how
interchangeable are parts? I also have an option to buy a Thomas, hence
the interest. Is there any common wear points or damage to look for? I
have pulled apart, cleaned and stripped the thing and all looks pretty
bullet proof, so soon in a new cradle and with a little more class ,
the previously Toyota serving spool may find itself hauling my RR
about. That is unless anyone can suggest reasons not to use it.......
cheers
Leaks but I luv it...
77 RR
Brian Tiedemann (S914440@minyos.xx.rmit.edu.au)
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]Date: Sat, 3 Jun 1995 14:34:11 +0059 (BST) From: Charlie Wright <cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk> Subject: Re: converter On Fri, 2 Jun 1995, William L. Grouell wrote: > I will put on a Toyota windshield decal before a catalytic converter. Off > -road vehicles with these are known to start fires because they get so hot. Hmmmm, depends on where you put it... under the center seat might be the Kodiak Mk. VI... and little risk of brush fires... petrol leaks however... > You are just trading one form of pollution for another (sulfuric acid). It > is a known fact (but never mentioned by the Greenies) that 60% of auto air > pollution is caused by 10% of the vehicles... older, poorly maintained junkers. > Most of the rest is caused by unregulated diesels. Your numbers aren't too far off, again, I implore anyone interested to pick up Science (19 May 1995, p.991-995). There are a couple of articles that are VERY good on this. They did some very targeted studies in Calif. and basically tore current policy to shreds with hard evidence. The trouble is, the current policies (especially those in California) are much better political manuvering than they are polution controlling. "Zero-emissions" (despite the utter lie that it is) sounds much better to a Greenie than does "Government subsidy to correctly tune your junker", which is the practical and cost effective solution. In addition, the responsible vehicles are not, contrary to most beliefs, all "older" junkers, or even "junkers". A significant portion caught in the Science test (they used portable detectors to spot check for indivdual "Gross Polluters" at roadside) were not in the expected age bracket. They were _either_ poorly maintained, or as was the case in something like 40%?, they had been tampered with. The report stated that not all cases were clearly deliberate tampering, but that many were indeed. So yes, small numbers responsible for large amounts, but we 'oldies' are not always to blame, because a lot of our vehicles are still running because they are well maintained. The conclusions basically pointed out the fallacy of lowering emissions targets of new vehicles by infinitessimal amounts, because A) current new car emissions are VERY low and B) new cars that do qualify as gross polluters are invariably badly maintained and usually tampered with. The study said that spending $200-300 per gross polluter to help bring it up to spec. (and to impose much stiffer penalties for taking off your EGR valve/smog-pump/converter) would be a MUCH more cost effective approach to the problem of clean air. Food for thought (or stirring...) Charlie ------------------------------[ <- Message 3 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950604 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 3 Jun 1994 15:04:26 -0600 (CST) From: "S.Vels Christensen" <velssvch@inet.uni-c.dk> Subject: Rods, Ends and Tracking. I was under Lawrence to improve the steering this week so i might be able to add something with regard to this thread (right or left ;-) ). I've been driving around with about 75 degree slack in a hard,n heavy steering for about a year so i ordered three pairs of rod ends. Not original stuff. Rather unoriginal and cheap really. About 6 UK sterlies a piece. The name is ACME. They have a feature that i've never seen on original or OE ends: Lube nibbles. Someone (a Toyota owner) told me that balls can be lubricated with a syringe through the rubber. I don't believe that: When i pressed some lithium grease into the housing on the new ones, grease came out at the top closing plate. I checked behind the rubber. No grease. I expect these to last at least as long as original ones. The grease on the old ones is not grease anymore. It's mayonaise that looks and smells rotten. I couldn't get one end off the track rod so i ordered a new rod for about 20 pounds. If i can get the end off without being too violent i'll keep the old rod in case i hit a rock or a biker. Tracking. I'll make my own cheap, precise and easy to use tracking equipment. At the DIY market they have lengths (1 m) of aluminium pipe. A 6mm should fit snuggly into an 8mm. I will use a narrow pointed marker to mark the difference. Alcohol based of course. Much cheaper (less than 10 pounds) than having it done by a pro. And the instrument will last forever. Note: The prices are mentioned in Pounds for comparison only. We use Kroner in Denmark of course. sv/aurens ------------------------------[ <- Message 4 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950604 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Piers E Montague <me92pem@brunel.ac.uk>
Subject: At Last!!!
Date: Sat, 3 Jun 1995 15:44:22 +0100 (BST)
Firstly I thought I had un-subscribed from this 'ere list, but then I
come back up to uni for a bit of a driking session and find loads of messages,
Oh well!
The good news is that after more years than I can remember wanting a Land Rover
last week I went and got one!!
She is a 1960 SWB full tilt diesel that has been on a farm all her life and
has not been taxed since 1963! The whole lot is in remarkable condition
considering what farmers get up to, and the price I payed.
I have six months working from home to try and get her rebuilt, I am not on
the Email system at home or I could keep you all posted on the progress, but
I will submit a report on my return to uni (hopefully in said vehicle!).
Have a good summer, I will!
Cheerz 'en anon,
PPPPP EEEEE RRRRR CCCC
PP P EE RR R CC C
PP PP EEEE RR RR CC
PP EE RR RR CC C
PP EEEEE RR RR CCCC
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Drink zcrump, Smoke bunnies, Eat lard, Live forever.
-----------------------------------------------------
Don't be a stick in the mud, be a
LAND-
-ROVER owner.
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]Date: Sat, 3 Jun 1995 21:25:40 -0500 From: rwegner@fimage.synapse.net (Richard Wegner) Subject: Rovin! again, all is well! All is well, gearbox is back in and the Rover is running just fine. After two or three test drives, the gearbox doesn't even LEAK...(yet)! Now that I have it all back together I do have one little question. How much play in the driveshaft is normal? I noticed when I was connecting the drive shafts to the transmission, that I could turn the front driveshaft about 1/4 turn back and forth before it engages. Is this a normal amount of play? Just thought I'd ask, now that its all back together it isn't coming apart for quite a while. I forget how much I use it until its off the road for a couple of weeks. Tip for Dave Brown and others replacing tie rod ends, don't forget to put anti-seize compound on the threads of the new tie rod before putting it into the center rod. That way if you have to take it apart again it will be a breeze, or you will make it easier for the next owner. Later.......Richard Richard Wegner 74 Land Rover Series III 88 RR 4 - workhorse, travelling companion Quyon Quebec Canada J0X 2V0 67 Austin Healey 3000 - for fun! rwegner@fimage.synapse.net - currently under restoration ------------------------------[ <- Message 6 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950604 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sat, 3 Jun 1995 18:41:20 -0700 From: jfhess@ucdavis.edu (john hess) Subject: unleaded gas Hello Rover folks, I've been meaning to give my 2 cents worth about unleaded fuel and lead substitutes for awhile and today remebered! My general recollection is that these old engines need a lead substitute. I have a copy of Robert Ivins book "Know your Land Rover" (LRO BOOKS, no ISBN #!) which starts out with chapter one: fuel. He says "the effect of using lead free in an engine not designed for it is not instant. It will not 'conk out' just down the road from the filling station but will suffer gradual and PERMANENT (his emphasis) damage to the valve gear." Mike Smith of East Coast Land Rover, from whom I bought my rover (68 IIa dormobile, 6cyl euro engine), used a lead substitute and I continue to. I buy a lead substitute made by Stewart Warner, called CD-2, super concentrated lead substitute. It comes in a quart plastic container with a very well designed dispenser built in. One ounce treats ten gallons of gas, therefore the bottle treats 300 gallons (give or take). I don't remember how much I paid for the bottle. Two points: one, the label says safe for catalytic converters and EPA registered (US) two, it says approved by major engine manufacturers (doesn't say who). That's my $0.02. john f hess phd (wow, really?) jfhess@ucdavis.edu from home via modem Land- -Rover, Sunbeam Tiger and Mazda owner! ------------------------------[ <- Message 7 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950604 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Kelly Minnick <minnick@joker.chinalake.navy.mil> Subject: Misc Date: Sat, 3 Jun 95 19:28:17 PDT RE:Misc For the non-leveling '95 RR trailer hitch... Does the new RR still use the auto-leveling device? That could be why they don't want you to use a leveling hitch... Just a thought. Stellite valves. Actually, stellite valves are only coated with stellite where needed (i.e. seat surface, etc.). Most shops have been using stainless valves. The are hard and work well, but are cheaper than the stellite ones! (always comes down to money, eh?) That is why your valves are semi-non magnetic! You should feel good if your RR only fogs up in the rain. My '91 has the original windshield and it leaks water in the center. fortunately, we live in the middle of the Mojave Desert... The RR controls have always been a little obscure. Blue and white is suppose to be mixture... Ha. A/C should have both vertical levers pushed down. And yes, get the heated screen! Carb mitxure adjustment. If one looks at the schematic of all carbs I've seen, you will see that the mixture control is only for idle. It does NOT effect the partial to full throttle. That is a jet replacement job! (which is much easier done with a Weber or Holley) Oh, BTW, stellite seats are about $10/cylinder to put in and about $10 ea. The valves are about $8 ea. Later Kelly Minnick '73 88" Safari & '91 RR Ridgecrest, CA ------------------------------[ <- Message 8 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950604 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: paul@frcs.alt.za (Paul Nash)
Subject: Re: daily use
Date: Sun, 04 Jun 1995 15:39:08 +1000
> I wonder if you all are actually *driving* these old vehicles or
> primarily keeping them for fun, rather like myself, driving my LR
I used to drive my 2.25 diesel as every-day transport (well, more like
all-day transport, I suppose :-)), with an occasional long trip off
to Malawi or Zambia or wherever. Alas, I had to sell it before
moving to the Antipodes, but I'm looking for another (anone in
Canberra got a sII/III for sale?) for yet more every-day transport,
with occasional excursions into the outback.
However, this doesn't mean that I didn't have one for fun -- it's
a far nicer way of coping with rush-hour traffic than a Datsun 120.
paul
--
Paul Nash <paul@frcs.alt.za> turbo-nerd & all-round nice guy
14/114 Blamey Cres, Campbell, Canberra ACT 2601, AUSTRALIA
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