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msgSender linesSubject
1 Mr Ian Stuart [Ian.Stuar17 Today is the Day!
2 Mark Perry [rxq281@freen47unleaded fuel&c
3 "James" [James.Curtis@ne39 Stereos in SIIs
4 Sanna@aol.com 10Re: Parts for RR
5 Sanna@aol.com 25Re: My '89 RR
6 Brian Imdieke [74051.22012Land Rover Parts
7 "TeriAnn Wakeman" [twak57Re: Stereos in SIIs
8 Charlie Wright [cw117@mo42Old Windscreen Wipers
9 William Caloccia [calocc213[not specified]
10 DEBROWN@SRP.GOV 48Questions questions?
11 Steven M Denis [denis@o29converter
12 hugh@nezsdc.fujitsu.co.n19Re: Dumb question: Audio install in a SII?
13 rover@pinn.net (Alexande29Camel trophy Daily Logs
14 Brian Imdieke [74051.22019Towing
15 Brian Imdieke [74051.22028Rover Parts


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From: Mr Ian Stuart <Ian.Stuart@ed.ac.uk>
Date:          Wed, 31 May 1995 09:00:15 +0000
Subject:       Today is the Day!

Well, this is it!

Assuming that the guy who has rebuilt the vehicle has done a good 
job, I shall be buying an SIII 109 2.25 petrol this evening

How quickly can I get the day to pass???

     ----** Ian Stuart (Computing Officer)        +44 31 650 6205
Royal (Dick) School of Veterinary Studies, Edinburgh University. 
WWW sites: Work -- <http://www.vet.ed.ac.uk/>      
           Play -- <http://www.tardis.ed.ac.uk/~kiz/>

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Date: Wed, 31 May 1995 03:45:34 -0500 (CDT)
From: Mark Perry <rxq281@freenet.mb.ca>
Subject: unleaded fuel&c

Unleaded fuel has been unavailable in Canada for at least a couple of 
years now. The PO of my '66 IIA (7:1) was quite definite about using a lead 
substitute, and I have been faithfully putting the stuff in the tank.
Various brands are available hereabouts: STP (sells for about CDN$12 a 
litre, Canadian Tire's house brand Motomaster, Rislone, I believe has a Pb 
sub also. About 150 ml does a full tank. A tech rep from the Manitoba 
Motor League (CAA/AAA affiliate) said one fill in three should be 
sufficient since the residue should persist on the valves.
Now our meddlesome federal government, urged on by Screamin' Sheila 
Copps, the minister in charge of environment, is about to ban the additive 
MMT which is used as Pb sub in unleaded fuels in Canada, but is apparently 
banned in U.S.A. for various toxic reasons.
Question is, if the stuff in the store-bought Pb substitute isn't the 
accursed MMT, what is it, or are we Canucks to be deprived of the stuff 
that protects our pre-unleaded valves?

Lloyd Allison cautions about checking half-shafts after 'hard work' by 
which I take it he means hard driving? My LH rear shaft snapped of at the 
diff end splines a couple of weeks back. Had a spare shft, and a 
spare diff, and had local shop do the job (I just didn't feel like 
it) Mechanic didn't like look of diff, so he swapped in the spare, 
provenance unknown, but servicable. New there's a bit of a hum about 
2200 rpm in 
4th gear, so we'll see how this one goes. More diff work in the 
offing? Driving around town - even in Winnipeg winter - is hardly 
hard work, but I had had the shaft out a couple of weeks earlier while 
replacing a hub seal. I recall a bit of scoring around middle of the the 
splines then, if that means anything. Is there  something I could have 
nobbled putting the shaft back it? It did seem tight going in the 
last couple of inches.

Heaters. Recent comments most enlightening: It appears then, I have a 
Kodiak Mk3, lacking a heater control valve, though: fan on, it's hot, hot, 
hot; fan off, it's no sweat. Open the little door, and my galfriend's 
knees are toasty. Had to repalce the heater core last fall; lead pipes 
corroded out. If anyone can give me a p/n for the heater control 
that goes on the fan housing, I would be most grateful. It mounts with 
three screws on a triangular base, and I'm told it might be one found on 
Minis or such at one time. Otherwise, SerII block mount valve OK?

Mark Perry   Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
1966 Ser.IIA 88 Petrol Hardtop: "Yes, I can see quite well over the spare tire."

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From: "James" <James.Curtis@newcastle.ac.uk>
Date:          Wed, 31 May 1995 11:03:25 GMT0BST
Subject:       Stereos in SIIs 

>If one were insane enough to want an audio system of some sort in
>a Series IIa, where's the best place to put it?

In answer to your query regarding the positioning of a -killer sound 
system in a series II well... 

Funnily enough I have just put a radio cassette in my 1960 series II  
+ 7 channel graphic equaliser etc...

Well I found that the best place to put it is under the dash, dead 
centre in that little pannel which has the choke and heater switch in 
it.  If you remove the pannel... not the little insert, the whole 
pannel approx 35x10 cm.  Then move the choke and heater switch 
elsewhere,  cut a hole in that pannel for the radio...  Put in 
radio...  Replace pannel,  ...  Here's the clever bit...  Don't put 
the pannel back as far as it will go, just recess it enough to bolt 
it under the front of the dash,  you will have to block off the 
engine compartment around the body of the radio,  rockwool is 
adequate but you may want to do a better job...

As for speakers....

Best place has to be in the seat boxes as it permits the perception 
of bass (Even in aLandrover  (With engine runnnig!))  doorpannel 
mounting is good if you don't want to 'hurt' your precious beastie 
but it doesn't sound a patch on mounting in the seat boxes...  even 
with cheap speakers!

Anyway... I shall stop my renting on now...  

James Curtis:

JAMES.CURTIS@NCL.AC.UK

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From: Sanna@aol.com
Date: Wed, 31 May 1995 09:52:15 -0400
Subject: Re: Parts for RR

The only source I've used for used RR parts is Atlantic British.  They'll buy
a roll-over when they can find one.  1-800-533-2210.  Please let me know if
you find a junker out there.  I could use some interior parts to refurbish my
'89. - Tony

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From: Sanna@aol.com
Date: Wed, 31 May 1995 10:09:12 -0400
Subject: Re: My '89 RR

>The first thing I learned today is that the diodes in the rear defroster
circuit and the door->internal light circuits can be switched with any off
the shelf diode. I was a wits end trying to figure why these circuits weren't
working, until I noticed these funny black cylinders.  Crack them open, and
you'll find any old off the Radio Shack shelf diode.  I soddered in some
new ones (rated for 2.5 A and 100 V) ...for those of you with circuit
problems.

With summer now here, it's time for me to start chasing down the winter bugs
in my '89 RR too.  My rear defroster doesn't work either (amoung other
things).  Although the diodes may not be the place to start looking for the
problem, it's a possibility.  Where are they located and how do you tell if
they're bad?  Another trouble spot is the heater/defroster.  I have an idea
that the intake is stuck on recirculate, since the car fogs quickly and
almost permanently in wet weather.  Using the defroster just makes it worse.
 Any idea on how to check this?  Also, when I bought the car, the PO had
replaced the heated windshield with a standard one.  If I replace this one,
does this option work well enough to warrant the $300 extra bucks?  Thanks. -
Tony

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Date: 31 May 95 11:51:14 EDT
From: Brian Imdieke <74051.2206@compuserve.com>
Subject: Land Rover Parts

Are there any Land Rover dealers in the US that sells parts via mail order at a
discount?  I get parts for my Mercedes from a dealer in California that sells
them at a minimum 25% discount from list.  I would like to continue using OEM
parts on my Rover, but the only dealer here charges full list.  Am I the only
guy that hates to pay list price?

Anyone?

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Date: Wed, 31 May 95 09:16:52 -0700
From: "TeriAnn Wakeman"  <twakeman@apple.com>
Subject: Re: Stereos in SIIs 

In message <199505311006.FAA07756@butler.uk.stratus.com> "James" writes:

; >If one were insane enough to want an audio system of some sort in
; >a Series IIa, where's the best place to put it?
 
; 
; Funnily enough I have just put a radio cassette in my 1960 series II  
; + 7 channel graphic equaliser etc...
; 
; Well I found that the best place to put it is under the dash, dead 
; centre in that little pannel which has the choke and heater switch in 
; it.  If you remove the pannel... not the little insert, the whole 
; pannel approx 35x10 cm.  Then move the choke and heater switch 
; elsewhere,  cut a hole in that pannel for the radio...  Put in 
; radio...  Replace pannel,  ...  Here's the clever bit...  Don't put 
; the pannel back as far as it will go, just recess it enough to bolt 
; it under the front of the dash,  you will have to block off the 
; engine compartment around the body of the radio,  rockwool is 
; adequate but you may want to do a better job...
; 
; As for speakers....
; 
; Best place has to be in the seat boxes as it permits the perception 
; of bass (Even in aLandrover  (With engine runnnig!))  doorpannel 
; mounting is good if you don't want to 'hurt' your precious beastie 
; but it doesn't sound a patch on mounting in the seat boxes...  even 
; with cheap speakers!

James,

I take it you keep your Land Rover dry.  There are some of us who occasionally 
get their cars wet and may find your stereo placement under water.  I'm not sure
how being submerged affects the base response but it probably causes problems 
with the high end response..

If you keep the top on, I might suggest adding a stereo wide shelf just abouve 
the front window.  There would be space there for a stereo, pair of downward 
facing speakers, second set of rear facing speakers, amplifier, CB, reading 
lamps and some map storrage.  You can run a fused hot line and ground wire up 
inside the middle window channel.  You can even pad the leading lower edge for 
safety and finish it off in the same style as your headliner.  I saw one 
variation of this where the radios hide away out of view when not in use.

I generally try not to wade any deeper than half way up my seat box, but some 
people I know, like Jim Rusell, are trying to get their seat cushons approved as
flotation devices

TeriAnn Wakeman              .sig closed for remodeling
twakeman@apple.com         
              
                         
                       

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Date: Wed, 31 May 1995 17:32:51 +0059 (BST)
From: Charlie Wright <cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk>
Subject: Old Windscreen Wipers

All right folks, a mundane but important wiper query.

I have the old motors, I've got the rebuild instructions, I have the 
technology, I can rebuild them... BUT

I can't get blades for the old-style Lucas chrome wiper arms.  They have 
the odd 'spoon' connector (not the 'spade' or 'bayonet' connector).  
There is a company who does 'classic' wiper ARMS for these cars (chrome, 
Lucus style) which take the modern 'bayonet' style blades (Bosch, Hella, 
etc) but these are still too new to fit the old wiper motors. They have a 
clamp connector at the base that is about 1" across. The old spindles are 
about 1/4" accross.  Oops.

<-spindle             tip             <-spindle                tip
  ==============++====                ===============-,    ,-==
                                                       '=='
  New 'bayonet'                       Old 'spoon'

I actually went to Lucas' parts counter. They no longer make the blades OR
the arms. They make no replacement. They have no idea what to suggest.
Perhaps Land-Rover has them he suggested. 

I asked the nice man where he thought Land-Rover got them, since they 
were stamped LUCUS!? He agreed that they might have come from Lucus. 
(Does Lucus _make_ its own employees?) Good grief.

Does anyone have the solution?  (or a pair of middle aged arms with the
new bayonet fittings and the old thin spindle clamp?) My _late_ IIa had thin
spindles AND bayonette connectors, so they exist.

Cheers,
Charlie

C. R. Wright                                    Dept. of Genetics
+44 (0)1223 333970 telephone                    Univ. of Cambridge
+44 (0)1223 333992 telefax                      Downing Street, Cambs.
cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk                        CB2 3EH, England

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Subject: ARC Nat'ls/ The List / Audio / Audi's / un-PC LRO's / !Pb / RR Steering / Delco alt   
Date: Wed, 31 May 95 13:52:38 -0400
From: William Caloccia <caloccia@sw.stratus.com>

Hi All,
	Well, I went off to the ARC Nationals and left Majordomo to it, and
he's kept things running well for the weekend while I was out getting at tan
at a Lincolnshire Beach [well not much water, but lots of sun and sand :-) ].

	I, and my RR survived the ARC Nationals, barring the sprung bonnet
latch, which now ceases to keep the bonnet shut at speeds in excess of 73 mph. 

	While there I met Stefan Jacob, as well as Gunther & some of friends
who brought with them an ample supply of German Beer, cold to keep it in, and
some plum liquor (25% ABV), which was wicked sweet.

	There was not international clubs meeting, apparently due to lack of
preparation, and the 'preceived' absence of international members, though
US, Germany, Norway and NZ were represented amoung others.

	I've got a few extra copies of the 1995 ARC handbook, with copies
reserved for Sandy Grice and Dixon Kenner, (pending their addresses and my
return from holiday). 

	I made the trip up on Friday, and set about to add secondary return
springs and what not to the motor for scrutineering.  What happened next is
the plastic ball cup on the end of the throttle linkage rod went to bits, and
then the Penine men helped me sort it out, evenutally borrowing one from
another motor.  I got into the scruitneering line sometime about 10:30, and
finished at about 12:15, failing.  (problems described below) The Yorkshire
lads invited me to show up the next morning at 7am to work on the motor, and
then we were off to the beer tent. I left after a bit, though as I didn't get
much sleep, it probably wouldn't have matter if I stayed 'til later with 'em.

	Saturday at 7 I showed up and drove half on their ramp truck, scrounged
the massive socket set, tightened the steering drop arm retaining nut, and then
spent the better part of an hour to remove, clean, re-pack and (more difficult)
replace the drop-arm ball joint, tightened a couple other things and made it
to scruitneering at 8:25. Then set off to find my navigator, a Pennine ROC
man from Lancs.  I queued up the the RR and we were off to the RTV.  

	All the events were in two quarries, which offered a variety of terrain
and lots of elevation changes, with few trees and things to hit (aside from the 
rock wall or major boulder).  Word has it the only incident in the RTV was
a D90 driver who rear-ended a lightwieght while convoying to the next section.
Unfortunately, the military hitch took out the D90's radiator.

	The Lincolnshire club had most of it extreemly well organized, (except
for a few couple marshals who didn't have a clear idea of where their next
section was in the quarry). The trade stands were decent and a bunch of vendors
were there, Land Rover itself was not, but that makes for a better selection
of vendors (non-LR dealers selling LR parts, & aftermarket etc.) Scrutineering
was open 24 hours from Friday through the start of the Comp Safari on Monday.
Food vendors were in both quarries, as well as on-site at the camps. One of
the grocers (Co-op) had a mobile food store there, milk wagons made the
round of the camps each morning.  The only thing missing was a rack of BT 
pay phones and a cash machine. You really couldn't ask for much more.  All
this and the main camp site was moved five miles the week before the event.
Once you got there, you'd never have known. The host club really ran the 
event well.

	Sunday I did some buying, and drove up to Lincoln to find an ATM,
then returned to take some photos of Pennine friends running the CCVT. Stefan
and I found some of the ARC leadership and discussed the international meeting,
or lack there of.  Monday I went and marshalled on the Comp Safari, and 
got stuck in the middle of the quarry, and didn't have much fun at all. After
that was the awards and then I hung out with friends from Pennine at their 
end-of-the-rally BBQ, and got a late start back to London [leaving at
2300 and arriving at 0200, with liberal stops for fresh air, caffine and
closing the bonnet].

	Here are some responses to recent articles: 

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Audio Systems mounting

 +	cubby box instead of middle seat

 -	top of bulkhead (little shelf above console) 

 !	with 1 metre of wiring extra and toss it back on the floor after
	tuning, or leave on center seat whilst wading (my personal mode of
	installation)

 +	Hardtop: mount above windscreen (hanging from roof, or make shelf
	across top)

 +	in seat box with remote control (seal it up before wading ! )

 -	down between your legs, just watch the coffee & crumbs (I put a CB
	there

	speakers: rear of hard top facing forward, mounted top corners or
	middle corners (rim of pick-up) or forward facing from rear, or
	middle top sides 
 
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

tonyy@ntalpha.nt.bom.gov.au (Tony Yates) writes:
> In Australia the government has been trying to persuade those of us with
> pre-unleaded vehicles to use unleaded (via 2c tax)

> Presumably this has also been the case in the UK and US

In the US, the EPA outlawed lead additives, and the last of it went of the
market a few years ago (at consumer pumps), earlier in CA and the N.E. than 
in middle America, due to CARB (CA Air Resources Board) requirements, etc.

In the UK, they released a report last summer that said unleaded is a 'worse'
pollutant than leaded, where most of the vehicle fleet is neither controlled
injection nor catalyzed, as the incomplete combustion of unleaded on start-up
produces far more partially combusted hydrocarbons and noxious emissions, etc.

UK Market prices seems to placed leaded more expensive than not (more octane),
but I've not been 'round long enough to know if this includes more tax.
 
> Darwin RFC
> Bureau of Meteorology
	Gee, why would a rugby football club care about the weather ?  :-)

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
	

Well, S.W. Brierley points out that:

 -	environmentalists don't like LRO's 'cause they got gas guzzling 
	polluting engines, and the vehicles last forever so they don't 
	get replaced with new more efficiently powered vehicles

 -	parents don't like LRO's 'cause they've got the roo bars might
	be more injurious than the slab-sided face of a rover

 -	Land Owners (& eco-hikers) don't like LRO's 'cause they go about
	tearing up the land, injuring trees and killing animals

	Well, I guess that means LRO's are then just politically incorrect...
 
	[Glad I bought that sticker at the ARC in Lincs "Tested on Animals"]

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

kgb@tigger.cc.uic.edu (Ken Berliner) writes about RR steering:

check the following:
 *	pinch bolts on the u-joint prior to the steering relay
 *	steering drop arm vertical movement (loose retaining nut), then,
 *	steering drop arm ball joint vertical movement
	other steering track rod ends (being replaced today)
	[it helps to have someone turning the steering wheel while you're
	examining these things, ball joints can als be checked with giant 
	slip joint pliers for vertical movement]

	(* all of which scrutineering failed me for the night before the ARC
	National RTV, [not to mention two loose rear prop shaft bolts and the
	other two were AWOL] but the Yorkshire lads (running the 'Thunderbird'
	badged motors), invited me to drop by bright and early Saturday morn'
	and Martin helped me sort it all out, using his ramp truck and
	3/4" socket set and refitting the drop arm ball joint after removal
	and re-packing, which I did in the rain, etc.)
	
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Kelly Minnick <minnick@joker.chinalake.navy.mil> writes, RE: delco altenators:

I found three things were required:

- reduce the thickness of one of the alt. mounts  so the front pulley was in
  the plane with the other pulleys

- increase the diameter of the rover generator mount, or insert collar to 
  reduce diameter of delco mounting hole

- use a different length belt   

+ i don't know if I was able to use the standard bar for adjusting or had to
  get a different one.  also be aware that the delco's have a number of 
  different mounting configurations, but essentially there are two different
  patterns for the mounting tabs on the case, and their mirror configuration
  (for high or low on right or left side of the block)

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Torsen Diff's

	I think Audi uses these - a $1600 retro fit for a Sierra/Merkur XR4...

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

kgb@tigger.cc.uic.edu (Ken Berliner) writes ?

> I need a center console for my 89 RR, its the part that holds the center
> glove box and has the window switches on it as well as the auto-trans
> indicator.

	center glove box ? switched windows ?  auto-trans ? whuz that ? :-)

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

	Well, my motor is in the shop getting checked over before I go on
holiday, doing the brake work I didn't get to, some track rod ends, and
what not. Then I'm off to Le Shuttle and over through France to Italy.

	I'm out from the 1st to the 19th, so hopefully Majordomo will keep
the list marching on.

	'til later,
	--bill	caloccia@Team.Net	<web: "http://www.senie.com/billc/">
		caloccia@Stratus.Com

      1  3     dl OD  L           "Land Rover's first, because
      |--|--+  o  |   |            Land Rovers last."
      2  4  R  ul N   H           '72 Range Rover

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Date: Wed, 31 May 95 13:40:19 MST
From: DEBROWN@SRP.GOV
Subject: Questions questions?

FROM:  David Brown                           Internet: debrown@srp.gov
       Computer Graphics Specialist * Mapping Services & Engr Graphics
       PAB219 (602)236-3544 -  Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486
SUBJECT: Questions questions?
Hi Jeff. I have been examining your Land Rover pictures, and have a few
questions...

Does your CD player skip? Is it a changer? (Multiple discs) and what
type is it?

How do you attach the roll bar? Is it attached to the frame in some way?
Or just bolted to the bed? Where did you get it?

Do you still have your wiper motor? I like the speakers and location,
but would not like to lose the wipers, how did you do this?

Are your speakers waterproof? (Marine type.)

Have you considered mounting the CD or radio under the drivers seat? In
the "tool box/battery holder"? (That's where the PO of my "88 mounted a
radio, you can still see the holes.) Not sure I'd like this location
though...

Does your heater "heat"? Can you feel much air flowing from it, or is it
more like... "wait a minute... I think I feel it... yes... there IS air
coming out... "

What size/type tires are those? Any clearance problems?

Again, very nice looking "88!! My compliments!

 #=====#         #========#          -------,___
 |___|__\___     |___|__|__\___      |--' |  |  \_|_
 | _ |   |_ |}   | _ |  |   |_ |}    |  _ |--+--|_  |
 "(_)""""(_)"    "(_)"""""""(_)"    ||_/_\___|__/_\_|}
                                       (_)      (_)
 1971 "88" IIa   1970 "109" IIa     1994 Discovery (for sale $30,500)
                                                   (Too hard to "draw")

#=======#                Never doubt that a small group of individuals
|__|__|__\___            can change the world... indeed, it's the only
| _|  |   |_ |}          thing that ever has.
"(_)""""""(_)"                                          -Margaret Mead

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Date: Wed, 31 May 1995 18:20:53 -0400 (EDT)
From: Steven M Denis  <denis@oswego.Oswego.EDU>
Subject: converter

The reasons I have not installed an converter on the 109 are:
Money...they cost, I ain't got...it does run with out it...
The best location for it would increase the heat in the driver's 
footwell.....And wouldn't *that* be dandy....8-0

As long as you can only get unleaded, why not go the whole route? you 
cannot fight city hall on this one...It is somewhat like the "tread 
Lightly" program here in the states...show some signs of respectbility 
and most folks leave you alone...it ain't gunna kill ya to have a 
converter on the 2.25...and having one will prevent the Greenies from 
legislating your 2.25 off the road...how's about a preemptive strike? 
everyone get a converter installed and make a big promotion with the 
media? You know, those *great* Land Rover people..and here all this time 
we thought they were all hooligans!...think about it....

steve......
flame away..but watch the stack temp., we don't want any NOX !!!!!

"HEY! NICE JEEP,MISTER!"..........."Look,Kid,it's a ..Oh never mind..."

"NOTAJEEP"-1967 109 Station Wagon          Steven M. Denis
                                           PO Box 296
                                           Fulton, New York USA 
                                                      13069

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From: hugh@nezsdc.fujitsu.co.nz
Date: Wed, 31 May 1995 22:36:33 GMT
Subject: Re: Dumb question: Audio install in a SII?

>>If one were insane enough to want an audio system of some sort in
>>a Series IIa, where's the best place to put it?
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
>IIa just about centered on the shift knob when the Rover is in reverse.
>(Yes,  have a Kodiak heater.)

It's not insanity, eh.  Mine is also under the dash, but located under
the steering wheel between the drivers knees.  The heater stopped me
from fitting it more centrally.  The speakers are fitted into the
plywood door panels.

I'd probably put it above the windshield if I never took the hardtop
off.

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Date: Wed, 31 May 1995 22:14:15 -0500
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Camel trophy Daily Logs

Central America is experiencing its hottest and driest May in over two 
decades.  Consequently, the mud for which the Camel Trophy is justly famous, 
has set into concrete.

Tuesday, May 30th - "The Calm Before the Storm"  The Camel Trophy crossed 
back into Guatamala Monday evening and entered Honduras on Tuesday.  Though 
it has been extremely dry, the deep glutinous mud at the Rio Jupilingo 
border crossing claimed many vehicles; it was a good day for winching.  
Tuesday turned out to be a relatively easy day, as the participants were 
given a half day to explore the ruins and hieroglyphs in a around Copan.  
This was to be last breather before the punishing final week of the event.

At present, the plans call for the team to follow Cortez's route around the 
western edge of Lago Izabal back into Guatamela towards the finish in 
Xunnantunich back in Belize.  The team will spend two or more days 
attempting to retrace part of the route that the conquistadors took up the 
coast of Guatamala...a route that has not been used in centuries.
      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |       Rover Owners' Association of Virginia         |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 804-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    804-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 804-622-7056     |
      *-----------------------------------------------------*

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Date: 01 Jun 95 00:16:35 EDT
From: Brian Imdieke <74051.2206@compuserve.com>
Subject: Towing

I own a '95 Range Rover 4.0 SE.  I would like to tow an Airstream trailer with
it.  According to the manual, the max. trailer weight I can tow is 6500lb. with
a max. tongue weight of 550lb.  The trailer that I am looking at is within the
total weight, but the tongue is 700lb.  Also, the manual states that "an
equalizing or weight distributing hitch should not be used with a Range Rover".
Why is that?  That seams really strange to me.  I would not fell comfortable
towing any trailer of this weight without an equalizing hitch.  Since the
factory hitch is welded in as part of the frame, replacing it with some other
hitch is out of the question.

Is this the way all Land Rovers are?  Does this have something to do with the
air suspension?  I just can't figure out what they were thinking.  It seams to
me that to tow any travel trailer, you *must* use a weight distributing hitch.
What do I do?

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Date: 31 May 95 23:29:43 EDT
From: Brian Imdieke <74051.2206@compuserve.com>
Subject: Rover Parts

---------- Forwarded Message ----------

From:	Brian Imdieke, 74051,2206
TO:	INTERNET:owner-lro-digest@uk.stratus.com,
INTERNET:owner-lro-digest@uk.stratus.com
DATE:	5-29-95 5:02 PM

RE:	Rover Parts

Hello, all!  I'm new to Land rover, and to this list.  Really new.  I recently
purchased a '95 Range Rover SE 4.0.  Man, this vehicle really shines!  I just
love it!  

Any other SE owners out there?  I'd like to hear your thoughts / comments.

Are there any Land Rover dealers in the U.S. that sell parts via mail order at a
discount?  I prefer to do my own maintenance, and would like to use OEM parts,
but the only dealer around here charges full list for everything.  I hate paying
list.  A lot.  I get parts for my Mercedes from a dealer in California that
gives a minimum of 25% off list for anything.

Anyone? 

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Digest Messages Copyright 1990-2011 by the original poster or/and Bill Caloccia, All rights reserved.